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Corset jacket with peak

collar
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Today's tutorial is about this corset jacket.

The construction is quite interesting because it mixes details of both types of garment. The
bottom part has classic corset construction with panels and bones, while the upper part
has a classic collar, a dart manipulation and a 2 pieces sleeve.

You can sew it in any medium weight fabric, paying attention to add interlining to support
collar and corset shapes.

Start from a basic block with darts. You can choose wearing ease according to the fit you
prefer and fabric you use, but we suggest 8cm at bust circumference, 2 to 0cm at
underbust and waist. We wouldn't make it with negative wearing ease as you would
normally do for a corset, but it's a personal choice.
Step 1

Start from a caopy of your basic block.

First, redraw the hemline extending it by 5-8cm below waistline in center front.
Step 2

Draw the underbust line on front and draw the waist dart 3cm wide from hem to underbust,
then shape it as you normally do up to bust point.
Step 3

Extend the underbust line all the way in te back, then on back:

shape the center reducing 1cm at waist and blending at center back neck
redraw the waist dart narrower by that 1cm and shorter, so it does not affect the jacket
upper section.
On front, draw the bottom part of waist dart slanted toward center front as shown.
Step 4

Cut through all lines to separate pieces.

Eliminate the darts in corset part. You get:

upper back
2 back corset pieces
upper front
2 front corset pieces.
Step 5

Mark the grainline on all of them – always perpendicular to waistline.

Then, cut through underbust dart on front piece and close shoulder dart. Here, the grainline
is the original center front.
Step 6

To draw the collar, draw the roll/fold line first.

It starts at center front on underbust line and extends up to a point 1,5 to 2,5cm inward from
high point shoulder. This changes the amount the collar ‘stands’.

Draw the lapel shape as you like it on the left side of the line (as you will see the lapel when
wearing the jacket).
Step 7

Mirror the lapel shape according to the roll line to draw it on the right side of it.

Then draw the collar upper part:

extend the roll line by the back neckline measurement

rotate it outward by 1,5cm
draw the collar width perpendicular to roll line 8 to 10cm wide
lastly, draw the peak shape where collar and lapel meet.
Step 8

Trace a copy of front and collar separately.

On front and back jacket pieces, raise shoulder point by 1cm and move it outward by 1,5cm –
this adds room for shoulder pads. Redraw the armholes.
Step 9

Add a 2 pieces sleeve, trace a copy for facing and your new pattern is ready!

Mark the underbust dart as a pleat.

Step 10

We suggest a light to medium weight, knit fusible interfacing for all corset pieces and
collar/lapel ones.

Remember to add staytape to the seams and to lapel fold line, so it will sit closer to your body
(it doesn’t fit great in this photo – maybe it’s the posture – you can do better!)
3163

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