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APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)

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Types of Block Pattern

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APPAREL MANUFACTURING - I 3(1+2)
Lesson 5 : Basic Paper Pattern

Participants
Types of Block Pattern
General
One pattern may not be used in every working condition, so according to the condition in which pattern is used there are different types of
1 pattern. There blocks normally vary in details in presentations and sometimes in method of construction.
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3 A block which is suitable for trade work may not be the best type for home dress making or for teaching in a college. A pattern which is made
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for a model trade or high class custom work may not be fit well for factory production. Different types of blocks have different features which
make them specific for some specific working conditions.
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Flat Pattern It isimportant to know the variety of conditions in which patterns are made and used and to understand the adjustment of the block in that
Pattern specific condition. Basic block must have the flexibility of use, design and working.
Information
Basic Pattern
Basically there are four different type of block, the standard block, the simplified block, the trade block and the tailoring
Types of Block
block.
Pattern
Standard block
References The standard block is most widely used basic foundation which follows the natural lines of the figure and is little influenced by other
Assessment considerations. The main objective of standard block is to provide a reliable basis of correct proportions and fit. More specific blocks can
6 be prepared with the help of standard block and every type of pattern can be checked.
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The standard block is simple in construction and may be neutral as it need not emphasize fashions exaggerations. But the lines and fit of
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standard block must never be ‘old fashioned’. It is the most useful and suitable block for teaching advanced pattern making because it is
9 the basis from which other blocks can be developed. The Standard block is drafted without any turnings (seam allowance).
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11 Simplified block
12 Simplified block is produced by a simple method of drafting . It is very simple in construction so more suitable for schools and technical
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classes, where the primary object of drafting is to have a reliable pattern for practical dressmaking.
14 Simplified block is made to individual measurements. These can be tested for fitting and adjusted to suit individual requirements.
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These are less suitable for advanced teaching which includes theory and principles of fitting and pattern designing. It is also not useful
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for developing other blocks.
Trade block
The Trade block is an adaptation of the Standard block made to suit various requirements of the wholesale manufacturing trade. The
proportions a trade block may follow one of the numerous ‘Size Charts’ used in the ‘wholesale’, or be adapted to fit a special dress stand.
The block may emphasize or underline some current fashion trends.
Finally it fulfills the special demands of the wholesale or factory technique, where accuracy in assembling and speed in making-up are
very important. Trade block includes all seam allowances and notches for high speed production of industry.
Trade blocks undergo constant modifications according to change of fashion, developments in factory technique and ideas in retailing
(e.g. the sizing system in shops). They also vary considerably from one firm to another, according to the standard of fit expected, the
dress stand used, the model employed and the type and class of retail trade served.
Tailoring block
The Tailoring block is an adaptation of the Standard block. Tailoring block includes a few special features and proportions of mostly
jacket patterns drafted by tailors. These special manipulations are related to the technique of high-class tailoring, to give a garment its
correct final shape. Other changes are merely differences in proportions essential for an outer garment, worn over another.
Primary and secondary blocks
The three Primary blocks are the bodice, the Straight Sleeve and the Standard Skirt. The Standard Skirt block follows the natural outline or
silhouette of a ‘walking figure’, i.e. a figure in motion, and widens slightly towards the hem.
From these Primary blocks one can obtain such secondary blocks as the shaped and the tight sleeves, the fully shaped or the straight skirt,
various collars, the Raglan, the Kimono block and others.
Although it would be quite logical to produce the pattern of every style by starting from one of the Primary blocks, it is much more convenient
and time-saving to have a complete range of Secondary foundation patterns at hand.

Last modified: Wednesday, 23 November 2011, 10:45 AM

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