M1: Introduction
Cosmetics have existed since the origin of civilization
for the purpose of beautifying, perfuming, cleansing,
or rituals. Only in the 20th century has great
progress made in the diversification of products and
functions and in the safety and protection of the
consumer.
Today, we can find cosmetics and personal care
products almost everywhere, including grocery
stores, pharmacies, beauty salons, or even gas
stations. But, what are cosmetics? Is there a
definition for them?
Currently, cosmetics intend not only to improve the
appearance or odor of the consumer but also to
benefit their target, whether it is the skin, hair, nail,
mucous membrane, or tooth. With this functional
approach, products became diversified and started
to claim a multitude of biologic actions.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
• Discuss brief overview of cosmetic science
• Name the authority that regulates cosmetics in the
Philippines
• Recognize the role of pharmacists in the cosmetic
industry
• Explain the policies and processes as to production,
distribution, consumption and information provision
of cosmetic products in the Philippines
M1: Lesson 1 - Overview of Cosmetic Science
Cosmetic science is a multidisciplinary field which
includes basic knowledge and a wide range of
information from a number of different scientific
fields. It is involved with developing, formulating,
and producing cosmetics and personal care
products. If someone wants to engage in the
cosmetic industry, they must have the basic
knowledge and background education on the
following: Anatomy and physiology, chemistry,
pharmacology, formulation technology, current rules
and regulations, analytical sciences, microbiology,
customer needs and marketing and business to
name a few.
To be able to formulate effective, stable, and safe
products that have appealing aesthetics, appropriate
performance, and compatibility with the application
surfaces, it is necessary to understand the basic
physical, chemical, and physicochemical properties
of the raw ingredients that are typically used.
Therefore, a chemical background, including organic,
inorganic, colloid, and polymer chemistry, is also
required.
Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiology is
needed to understand the structure and function of
the skin, hair, lips, teeth, and so on, to where
products are usually applied.
To be able to choose appropriate ingredients, the
basic properties and therapeutic effects of the raw
materials on the target surfaces have to be known.
Therefore, a basic pharmacological education is also
inevitable.
Future formulators also need to be aware of and
understand the different dosage forms from which
they can choose to incorporate the ingredients.
Additionally, they have to know the various
manufacturing techniques that are used to produce
the dosage forms. Therefore, they need to be taught
formulation technology.
It goes without saying that basic knowledge and
understanding of the current guidelines, rules, and
regulations relevant for cosmetics and OTC (over-
the-counter) drug–cosmetic products are essential.
As part of the regulations, one needs to be aware of
and understand the rules that regulate labeling and
packaging of a final cosmetic product.
Education in analytical sciences as well as
microbiology is also important in order to
understand the different types of tests and testing
methods that are performed for cosmetics and OTC
drug–cosmetic products to evaluate their
performance, efficacy, safety, and stability.
Additionally, understanding what consumers expect
from products and what their needs are is also
required in order to be able to target those needs
and satisfy consumers (consumer needs).
Finally, basic understanding of marketing and
business is essential to understand how a business,
such as the cosmetic industry, works.
M1: Lesson 2 - Cosmetic Regulation in the Philippines
In the Philippines, the Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) (formerly the Bureau of Food and Drugs)
created under the Department of Health, is
responsible for regulating cosmetic products and
ensuring the safety, purity, and quality of cosmetics
in Philippines market. Being a prominent member of
ASEAN, Philippines formally adopted the ASEAN
Harmonized Regulatory Scheme and the ASEAN
Common Technical Documents into the National
Requirements in April 2005 and allowed the
cosmetic industry a transitory period to 31 Dec 2007.
Since then, a notification scheme has been
implemented in Philippines.
All cosmetic companies shall obtain a License to
Operate (LTO) prior to engaging in manufacturing,
importation, distribution and sale of cosmetics. The
LTO is also an essential requirement to be able to
notify cosmetic products. All companies are asked to
ensure that their notified products meet the
requirements of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, its
annexes and appendices.
Regulatory Framework and Competent Authority
Main Cosmetic Regulations in Philippines
 Adoption of the Association of Southeast
Asian Nation (ASEAN) Harmonized Cosmetic
Regulatory Scheme and ASEAN Common
Technical Documents
 Implementation of the ASEAN Harmonized
Cosmetic Regulatory Scheme and ASEAN
Common Technical Documents
 Updated Guidelines for the Implementation
of the Association of South East Asian
Nation (ASEAN) Cosmetic Directive and the
Association of South East Asian Nation
(ASEAN) Common Technical Documents
 Cosmetic e-Notification v.2.0 Booklet for
Applicants
 Guidelines on the Unified Licensing
Requirements and Procedures of the FDA
ASEAN Cosmetic Directive
Competent Authority
The main competent department for the regulation
of cosmetic products is the Center for Cosmetics
Regulation and Research (CCRR), which belongs to
the Philippines FDA and has 2 sub-branches, the
Licensing and Registration Division and the Product
Research and Standard Development Division.
Definition of Cosmetic Products
The definition of cosmetic product is the one
contained in the ASEAN Cosmetics Directive: "Any
substance or preparation intended to be placed in
contact with the external parts of the human body...
or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the
oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly for
cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their
appearance, and/or correcting body odours and/or
protecting or keeping them in good condition".
Manufacturing Requirements
The requirements for manufacturing cosmetics in
the respects of personnel, premises, equipment,
sanitation and hygiene, and others are set by the
ASEAN guidelines on Good Manufacturing Practice
(GMP). Cosmetic manufacturers must ensure that
their manufacturing conditions comply with the
GMP.
License to Operate (LTO)
All cosmetic establishments shall first secure the LTO
or authorization from FDA prior to engaging in the
manufacture, importation, exportation, sale, offering
for sale, distribution, transfer, promotion,
advertisement and for sponsorship of any activity
that involves cosmetics. They must continuously
comply with the existing requirements, regulations
and standards and under the supervision of a
qualified person as required by the regulations. The
responsibility of ensuring the safety, quality, and
when applicable, the efficacy and/or purity of health
products, shall rest upon all the establishments or
persons involved in the production, sale, handling,
packing, transport, distribution, trading and storage
thereof.
All licensed manufacturers are granted an Initial LTO
based on the minimum requirements set by FDA in
order to operate a manufacturing plant. A Certificate
of GMP Compliance shall only be issued upon
demonstration of satisfactory compliance to GMP
and effective up to the validity of the current LTO.
Thereafter, the Certificate of GMP Compliance shall
be issued each time the LTO is renewed.
Application Requirements
a) Initial Application
• Accomplished Application Form and Declaration
and Undertaking
• Proof of Business Name Registration
• Site Master File (for manufacturers of drugs,
devices and cosmetics)
• Risk Management Plan
• Payment
b) Renewal Application
• Accomplished Application Form with Declaration
and Undertaking
• Payment
Application Process
a) Filing
An application for LTO, whether initial, renewal, or
variation, and other authorizations are deemed filed
upon submission of complete requirements including
payment of required fees and charges.
b) Evaluation
The evaluation of all applications for LTO shall be
based on the veracity of the submitted documents
and compliance with appropriate standards.
In case the applicant falsified, misrepresented
material facts or documents, or withheld any
material data or information, the application shall be
disapproved. In such cases, the applicant may be
investigated, appropriate charges may be filed, and
penalties may be imposed.
Should there be a need for clarification on the
application, a notification, either written or through
e-mail, shall he sent to the applicant.
c) Inspection
Pre-opening inspection shall be mandatory for
manufacturers. All covered establishments may be
inspected at any time by FDA as part of its post-
marketing surveillance activities.
M1: Lesson 3 - Cosmetic Product Notification
The company or person responsible for placing the
cosmetic products in the market shall notify the FDA
before the product is placed in the market.
Submission of the notification application shall be
done using the FDA E-Portal, accessible through FDA
official website https://ww2.fda.gov.ph. To file an
application, follow the procedure below:
a) Secure a CCRR User Account by sending a request
to info@fda.gov.ph following with the following
information:
• Email address (preferably company email address)
• Name
• Position
• Contact No.
• Company name
• Company address
• Product classification: cosmetics
b) After securing the CCRR user account, log in at the
FDA e-Portal (https://ww2.fda.gov.ph)
c) Select “New Case” and accomplish the ASEAN
Notification Form.
d) Download the Order of Payment and assign the
task to FDA Cashier.
e) Pay the fee at any Landbank Branch or thru online
Bancnet payment and wait for the Result of
Application.
f) If approved, download and print the notice of
acknowledgement. Companies with correct
application documentation will be issued a
Notification Certificate.
For initial submissions, the notification shall be valid
for a period of 1 to 3 years maximum at the option of
the applicant. Those with insufficient documentation
will receive a Notice of Deficiencies, asking for
clarification or further explanation of some details.
Any company declaring false or misleading
information will get a Denial Letter. The FDA lists all
of its decisions on notification applications on its
website.
a
Product Information File (PIF)
The Philippines adheres to ASEAN Cosmetic Directive
(ACD). This directive requires persons or companies
placing a product on the market to keep a Product
Information File "readily accessible to the regulatory
authority of the Member State concerned". This file
can be printed or digital and should be updated
every time the company decides to change any
aspect of the notified product.
M2: Lesson 1.1 - Shampoo
Hair cleansing products are one of the most widely
and frequently used personal care products today.
When selected properly for the individual’s needs
and used appropriately, they help maintain the hair’s
healthy appearance.
Types of Shampoos
The variety of shampoos available today in the
market is endless. There are, however, some basic
types that are worth discussing. When buying
shampoos, we can usually see the type of hair for
which a certain shampoo is recommended, including
“normal hair,” “oily hair,” “dry hair,” “colored hair,”
and “damaged hair.” The basic ingredients are
similar in these formulations; however, the
concentration of the ingredients used in different
types of shampoos can significantly vary.
◾ Normal hair shampoos are designed to clean the
hair of persons with moderate sebum production
and who do not have chemically processed hair.
These shampoos offer good cleansing by using
sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate with minimal
conditioning.
◾ Oily hair shampoos are designed to remove excess
sebum from the hair and scalp. This can be
accomplished by using strong surfactants, such as
lauryl sulfates, with no or minimal conditioners.
◾ Dry hair shampoos provide gentle cleansing by
incorporating gentle surfactants, such as
sulfosuccinates, and good conditioning. Dry hair
shampoos provide a thin coat over the hair fibers
and thus reduce the static electricity and increase
manageability of fine hair.
◾ Everyday shampoos are formulated as gentle
formulations that can be used every day without
drying the hair or depositing too much oil on it.
Normally, it is not necessary to shampoo every day
unless sebum production is high.
◾ Deep cleansing shampoos are designed to
thoroughly clean the hair. These products are
generally used to remove retained hair styling
products, such as hair gels, hair sprays, and mousse.
These shampoos contain stronger surfactants, such
as sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate, similar to oily
hair shampoos, to efficiently remove dirt. These
shampoos are typically used once weekly to keep the
hair free of hair styling product buildup.
◾ Baby shampoos are usually milder, based on
amphoteric surfactants, such as betaines. They offer
nonirritating properties and minimal sebum
production.
◾ Gray Hair Shampoos: One new significant
consumer segment is for gray hair and consists of
products containing blue dyes to make the gray hair
color brighter and less yellowish. Overdosing or very
frequent use may cause a bluish appearance of the
hair.
◾ Hair dyeing shampoos are special formulations
that are designed to be used after permanent hair
dyeing. These shampoos contain cationic surfactants
and have an acidic pH, which neutralizes any residual
alkalinity from the chemicals used for hair dyeing.
◾ Medicated shampoos are designed to deliver extra
benefits to the hair and scalp in addition to cleansing
and conditioning. Most medicated shampoos contain
active ingredients to relieve itching and scaling.
◾ Dry shampoos were the earliest types of hair
cleaning products. They have primarily historical
importance; today, their use has diminished. The
word “dry” in their name refers to their dosage form
(i.e., powder or powder-based aerosol) and not the
type of hair they should be used on. Dry shampoos
contain powders with good oil-absorbing capacity,
such as starch, silica, magnesium stearate, kaolin,
and talc. These are cleansing formulations that work
without soap and water. Dry shampoos are mainly
used as touch-ups if customers do not have to time
to wash their hair.
Antidandruff Shampoos
Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are common
diseases of the scalp, which are considered the same
basic condition, but differing in the severity of
symptoms, such as flaking and inflammation.
Dandruff is a milder variant of seborrheic dermatitis.
Dandruff is one of the most common skin diseases of
the scalp, which presents as dry, scaly patches. It is
not contagious.
Dandruff can appear in normal (neither dry nor oily)
hair. Sometimes, if the scalp is particularly dry, and
the dry skin peels, this can resemble dandruff.
Nevertheless, dandruff is more common in oily hair.
Most common symptoms include gray or yellow oily-
looking flakes on the scalp and shoulders, along with
itching, redness, and scaling. The exact causes of
dandruff are not clearly known. Potential factors
include hormones, seasonal effects (more frequent
during winter), emotional stress, sebum, increased
alkalinity of the skin, occlusion of the scalp, and a
yeast normally found on the human scalp and skin,
called Malassezia (formerly known as Pityrosporum).
Image result for anti dandruff shampoo Image
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anti dandruff shampoo neutrogena
Antidandruff shampoos are basic shampoos with
active ingredients. They clean the hair and leave it in
an aesthetically appealing condition. In addition,
they reduce scaling, decrease the rate of cell
turnover, and also have an antimicrobial effect.
Commonly used monographed active ingredients
include the following:
◾ Zinc pyrithione slows down cell turnover and is an
effective antifungal ingredient.
◾ Sulfur and salicylic acid have a keratolytic effect,
which means that they dissolve the keratin of dead
cells and thus prevent the formation of visible flakes.
In addition, sulfur has antimicrobial properties.
◾ Tar slows down the rate of epidermal turnover
and also has antiseptic activity.
◾ Ketoconazole is an antifungal ingredient, which
controls flaking and itching.
M2: Lesson 1.2 - Shampoo
Ingredients - Hair Cleansing Products
Cleansing Basics
From the aspect of their chemical nature, today,
shampoos are surfactant-based preparations.
Therefore, their cleaning principle is emulsification.
Surfactants surround and trap tiny droplets of fat,
which in this form can be rinsed off from the hair
and scalp. Insoluble particulate soil can be removed
by electrostatic repulsion between the soil and the
hair fiber assisted by repulsion between the
surfactant molecules adsorbed onto the hair fiber
and those dissolved in the soil.
Typical Ingredients of Shampoos
Today, shampoos are available as liquids, gels,
emulsions (lotions and creams), and powders. Most
commonly, shampoos are colloidal dispersions of
various surfactants in water. Basic components of a
classical shampoo are cleansing agents, thickeners,
and water. Usually, various additives are also
incorporated in the formulations in order to help the
cleansing process, enhance the aesthetic properties,
increase foaming, and make the hair shine.

This section reviews these ingredient types, including
their basic characteristics and functions.
◾ Surfactants aid in cleaning and foaming by
reducing the surface tension between two phases. In
addition, surfactants can also act as foam boosters
and foam stabilizers. Typically, several surfactants
are combined to achieve the desired result. For
example, shampoos for oily hair contain surfactants
with strong sebum removal qualities, unlike those
for colored hair that are gentler to the hair.
Different surfactants, however, have different
characteristics and effects on the hair and scalp.
Anionics can make the hair extremely clean, but will
leave it with a rough, harsh feeling; while nonionics
can increase luster and shine, but they do not foam
as well as anionics. Selecting the appropriate type
and amount of surfactants is, therefore, critical.
Anionic surfactants have good cleansing properties;
therefore, they are commonly found in most
shampoos. Examples of anionic surfactants include
lauryl sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate; laureth
sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate; sarcosines,
such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (they are
excellent conditioners but do not efficiently remove
sebum); and sulfosuccinates, such as sodium dioctyl
sulfosuccinate.
Cationics are not as popular as anionics since they do
not foam well and do not remove grease as
efficiently as anionics. In addition, they are normally
incompatible with anionics, which is another
drawback. They are mainly used in formulations
where minimal cleansing is required; however,
softness and manageability should be increased
(such as everyday shampoos for colored hair).
Amphoterics are compatible with all classes of
surfactants. These detergents are nonirritating to the
eyes, foam moderately well, and increase
manageability of hair. They are often used in
combination with anionics. Examples include
betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and
alkylamino acids.
Nonionics are popular surfactants, and they are
verymild. Therefore, they are often used in
combination with ionic surfactants as co-surfactants,
rheology modifiers, and solubilizers for insoluble
components such as fragrance oils. Examples include
poloxamers; amine oxides, such as
cocamidopropylamine oxide; and polyglucosides,
such as lauryl glucoside.
Thickeners provide the necessary rheological
properties for the systems. A shampoo with a
viscosity similar to that of water would not be
favorable as it would run off the hands and not stay
on the scalp, but run into the eyes instead.
Thickeners increase viscosity and influence the
product feel. As discussed under skin cleansing
products, solutions of anionic surfactants can be
thickened with sodium chloride. Examples of
thickeners include sodium chloride, gums, celluloses,
and other polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol and
acrylates copolymer.
◾ Water is the vehicle for shampoos.
◾ Preservatives prevent the growth of
microorganisms in the formulations. Examples
include parabens; urea derivatives; isothiazolones,
such as methylchloroisothiazolinone; as well as
benzalkonium chloride, a cationic surfactant.
◾ Opacifiers and pearlescent agents play an
aesthetic role by providing a unique pearly,
shimmering effect or a creamy appearance for the
formulations. Examples for such ingredients include
polyglycol esters, latex opacifiers, and pearlescent
color additives.
◾ Conditioners make the hair soft, shiny, and easier
to manage. Although the main purpose of using
shampoos is to clean the hair, overcleaned hair looks
dull and has less shine. Conditioners can be
incorporated into shampoos; products containing
such ingredients are usually referred to as two-in-
one shampoo and conditioner formulations.
Conditioners are particularly important in dry hair
shampoos and shampoos for colored and bleached
hair as these hair types are dry by themselves, which
is further aggravated by using shampoos. Examples
for commonly used ingredients include quats (a type
of cationic surfactant); humectants, such as glycerin;
proteins; silicones, such as dimethicone among
others (see more detail on conditioners under hair
conditioner products).
◾ pH buffers adjust the pH of products. Surfactants
usually provide an alkaline pH to formulations; it can
lead to swelling of the cuticle, which makes it more
vulnerable. This is especially a concern in dry and
chemically treated hair. By shifting the pH closer to
the neutral range provides less damage to the hair.
Examples include citric acid and glycolic acid.
◾ Chelating agents, also known as sequestering
agents, contribute to the stability of the product by
binding to metal ions. Metal ions, such as
magnesium and calcium ions, present in tap water
and can form insoluble soaps with shampoos, which,
if deposited on the hair, make it dull and less
manageable. Examples include EDTA and its
derivatives.
◾ Additional ingredients include compounds that
provide a unique feel or appearance for the products
but do not influence their functional (i.e., cleaning)
property. Such ingredients include color ingredients;
perfumes; botanical extracts, such as tea tree oil;
and vitamins, such as vitamin B5 (panthenol).
DID YOU KNOW?
Similar to skin cleansers, most consumers look for
well-lathering formulations as they associate this
property with the cleansing power of a shampoo.
This is not the case, however; low-foaming
formulations can be just as effective in removing
sebum from hair as highly foaming formulations.
Another common belief is that the thicker the
shampoo, the richer it is in active ingredients and
conditioners. Most ingredients added to a shampoo
will not significantly affect its viscosity; the
ingredients added for thickening, however, do not
have conditioning effect. They simply provide better
shampooing experience to the users.
M2: Lesson 1.3 - Shampoo
The formulation of shampoo should be determined
by examining the appearance, viscosity, lathering,
detergency, safety, and feel of use. Most home-use
shampoo products have pearl-like luster while those
used by professional beauticians are transparent.
The optimum viscosity is being easy to pour on a
palm and still not falling out. Smooth lathering is
highly demanded, and creamy foams are usually
favored. Products that are too viscous are not
favored because they do not lather smoothly and
produce sticky foams. Detergency is not a big point
of consideration because today the hair of most
users is not greasy. Safety is not a matter of big
concern either except for eye irritation as long as
safe ingredients are used.
In general, a shampoo consists of 30–40% anionic
surfactants (assumed purity: 30%), about 10%
amphoteric surfactants, 3–6% thickening agents such
as alkanolamide and other nonionic surfactants in
most cases, and 0.3–1.0% cationic polymers to
improve the feel of use and increase viscosity. The
sensory characteristics of shampoos are determined
by the ratio between cationic polymers and anionic
or amphoteric surfactants; and viscosity is also
determined by the combination of these four
ingredients.
Stabilizers, preservatives, and acidity regulators are
also important ingredients and should be thoroughly
examined. Viscosity changes greatly by pH, and the
changes are more conspicuous at lower pH. This is
likely because the counter ions in anionic surfactants
neutralize at low pH.
Sample formula
Basic formulations of shampoos (and body soaps)
Principal Materials Percentage Principal objective of use
Fatty acids 0–25% Detergent
Anionic surfactants 3–9% Detergent, foaming agent
Amphoteric surfactants 1–4% Detergent, stimulus reducer,
foaming agent
Nonionic surfactants 1–6% Thickener, foam stabilizer
Glycol 1–6% Stabilizer, viscosity adjuster,
moisturizer
Polymers 0–1% Thickener, touch improver
Neutralizer, pH adjuster
Chelating agent
Preservative
Water
DID YOU KNOW?
Soaps are usually not used in shampoos due to their
negative properties. A major drawback of soaps is
that they have a high pH, which may damage the
hair and the skin as well. Additionally, a normal soap
forms calcium salts that adhere to the hair when
used with tap water. These salts make the hair look
and feel dull and brittle and difficult to comb.
M2: Lesson 2.1 - Hair Conditioner
Conditioners are applied to the hair after
shampooing and are designed to smooth the hair,
improve gloss and luster, as well as recondition
chemically damaged hair (by permanent waving, hair
bleaching, or hot blow-drying), mechanically
damaged hair (by excessive brushing), and
weathered hair (by sunlight, salty seawater,
chlorinated water, or swimming pools). Conditioners
act by reducing static electricity generated after
combing dry hair, improving manageability by filling
in the gaps around and between the cuticle scales,
increasing hair shine by coating hair shafts with a
thin layer, decreasing split ends, and improving hair
flexibility. Natural sebum is the ideal conditioner.
Excessive removal of sebum leads to a harsh and dull
appearance of the hair, and it necessitates the use of
synthetic sebum-like products.
Based on their application, there are several types of
hair conditioners available today, including instant
products, hair rinses, deep conditioners, and leave-in
products.
◾ Instant conditioners are usually formulated as
lotions and are used on wet hair after shampooing.
They are left on the hair for a few minutes and then
rinsed off. These conditioners usually contain quats
as the main ingredients. Instant conditioners
improve wet combing and are primarily
recommended for consumers who shampoo
frequently and/or have minimally damaged hair.
◾ Hair rinses are also applied to towel-dried hair and
rinsed after a few minutes. The main ingredients in
these products are quats, such as stearalkonium
chloride. Hair rinses are usually formulated as liquids
and are generally intended for fine oily hair, which
needs less conditioning. Their main function is to aid
in hair detangling.
◾ Deep conditioners, also known as hair masks, are
usually recommended for chemically damaged hair
and dry hair. They are applied to wet hair and are
left on the hair for 20–30min before rinsing. They are
generally available as creams or oils containing quats
and hydrolyzed proteins.
◾ Leave-in products are typically applied to towel-
dried hair, and as their name implies, they are
designed to remain on the hair. The most popular
leave-in conditioners are oily products based on
petrolatum; mineral oil and silicones are designed
for thick, curly, or kinky hair. They can moisturize the
hair while aiding in hair styling.
Similar to the skin that needs moisturization
regardless of its type, most hair types also need
regular conditioning as well. Fine hair is generally
more manageable than curly hair; however, it is also
more vulnerable to chemical and physical damage.
There are specific products designed for straight
hair, wavy hair, and curly or kinky hair, as well as oily
hair and extremely dry hair, as all these types
possess different characteristics. Therefore, hair type
should be taken into consideration when selecting
conditioners.
M2: Lesson 2.2 - Hair Conditioner
Hair Conditioner Basic Ingredients
Conditioners are available as liquids, creams, or gels.
The main ingredients in hair conditioners are the
conditioning ingredients. There are various types of
conditioning agents available, including lipids,
silicones, quats, protein derivatives, silicones, and
glycols, among others. Of these types, the following
conditioning agents are the most widely used:
◾ Quaternary conditioners are cationic detergents.
Due to their positive charge, cationic compounds are
attracted to the negatively charged hair fiber and can
remain on their surface even after rinsing. They
neutralize the negative charges and make hair less
susceptible to static electricity and shinier. Cationic
ingredients are beneficial for permanently colored or
waved hair where the cuticle is damaged. The more
the cuticle is damaged, the more negative electric
charges its surface carries and the stronger bond it
forms with the conditioner. They are usually applied
after shampooing and rinsed before drying the hair.
Examples for widely used cationic conditioners
include stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium
chloride, quaterniums, and polyquaterniums (such as
polyquaternium-10).
◾ Film-forming conditioners coat hair fibers with a
thin polymer layer. In addition, they fill in defects in
the cuticle to create a smooth surface. The most
common film-forming agent used in such
conditioners is polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The thin
film creates a smoother surface, which translates to
shinier
hair, and also reduces static electricity and improves
hair manageability. Film-formers are ideal
conditioners for curly and kinky hair, and they can
even make hair straightening easier for such hair
types if applied in a higher amount. However, they
can make fine straight hair limp and difficult to style.
Film-forming conditioners are usually applied to
towel-dried hair and are left on the hair.
◾ Protein-containing conditioners contain a small
amount of proteins that can penetrate the holes in
the hair shaft and increase its fracture strength. The
proteins, derived from animal tissues, silk, and
plants, are hydrolyzed (i.e., broken down) to smaller
fragments in order to be able to penetrate the hair
shaft. The ability of these ingredients to strengthen
hair shafts depends on the contact time. The longer
they are left on the hair, the deeper proteins can
penetrate the hair. Therefore, proteins can be used
as rinse-off conditioners for minimal penetration and
leave-in conditioners for deeper penetration.
◾ Silicones form a thin film on the hair without
creating the appearance of greasy and limp hair.
They are very popular conditioning ingredients.
Some silicones are water-resistant and, therefore,
can remain on the hair shaft even after washing the
hair. Examples for silicones include cyclomethicone,
dimethicone, and amodimethicone.
Additional ingredients in hair conditioners include
water, thickeners to provide viscosity, botanical
extracts, vitamins, preservatives, color additives, and
fragrances.
M2: Lesson 2.3 - Hair Conditioner
Conditioners are used to improve the feel of the hair
after shampooing so as to be smooth and moist.
Users select the feel given by conditioners
depending on the characteristics of the hair,
personal preference, and concepts of the product.
Therefore, the sensory characteristics must be
designed so as to suit the purpose of use. Unlike in
shampoos, the demanded sensory characteristics
seldom vary between home users and professional
beauticians.
The sensory characteristics of conditioners are
determined mainly by the cationic surfactants used.
Higher alcohols also affect the sensory
characteristics and viscosity. Silicones increase the
lubricious, smooth, and silky feeling. Vegetable oils,
esters, and carbohydrates also affect the feel of use
but to a lesser degree. Conditioners may also contain
nonionic surfactants, glycol and polymers to improve
emulsification and stability. They also affect the
sensory characteristics, and sometimes are used to
achieve the aimed feel. Conceptual and efficacious
ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, acidity
regulators, and scenting agents are also
indispensable.
◾ The same is true for hair conditioners. Although hair
conditioners can be left on the hair (such as leave-in conditioners),
they are usually applied to the ends of hair fibers and not the
scalp; therefore, adverse reactions are rare.
◾ In the case of shampoos, eye irritation, however, is a general
problem. It is usually caused by the primary surfactants used in
shampoos (i.e., the surfactants responsible for cleansing), such as
sodium lauryl sulfate. In order to reduce the irritation, potential
shampoos contain a variety of ingredients, such as amphoteric
surfactants, silicone derivatives, protein derivatives.
◾ In addition to eye irritation, anionic surfactants can damage the
stratum corneum (SC). Harsh surfactants can remove barrier lipids
and the water-soluble NMF from the SC, leading to dryness and
changed enzyme activity in the SC. Collectively, these changes in
SC composition impact the overall barrier quality, impair
desquamation, and promote flaking. A common approach to
reduce these negative effects is to use milder cleansing systems
by combining anionic and amphoteric surfactants.
◾ Moreover, as harsh surfactants are excellent components for
removing sebum and dirt from the hair, their excessive use can
lead to significant changes in the appearance of the hair. They can
leave the hair dull, susceptible to static electricity, and difficult to
comb. Excessive sebum removal is advantageous for oily hair, but
would make dry hair even worse. This is one of the reasons why
selecting the appropriate type of shampoo is important in
maintaining hair with healthy appearance.

The basic formulation and typical constituents of hair

conditioners are shown in the table below.

Basic formulations of conditioners

Principal Materials Percentage Principal objective of use

Cationic surfactants 1–5% Hair softener, emulsifier, touch

improvement

Higher alcohols 2–10% Thickener, cream base

Liquid oils 0–10% Oil, touch improvement

Nonionic surfactants 0–1% Emulsification aid

Silicone 1–10% Making the hair silky

Polymers 0.5% or less Stabilizer, touch improver

Preservative
pH adjuster

M2: Safety Issues

Adverse reactions to shampoos and hair conditioners are

generally rare; however, some negative effects can still occur in
some cases. The most common negative effects of these products
are summarized here:
◾ Generally, shampoos are not a common cause of skin irritation
as they are in contact with the skin for a brief time before being
rinsed off. Ingredients that may be allergens in shampoos include
fragrances, triclosan, propylene glycol, benzophenones, parabens,
and other preservatives.