1

Options included:

Sleeve Ruffle Option: Plain Option:

Sash Tie In Front Option: Sash Tie in Back Option:

2
Body measurement guide

3
Printable body measurement record
Size: 5x7 JPEG.

4
 Vintage Little Lady Standard Baby Size Chart: 0-3months - 18-24months

Size 0-3 3-6 6-12 12-18 18-24

Bust 16” 17 1/8” 18 1/8” 19” 19 1/2”

Waist 15 1/8” 16 1/4” 17 1/4” 18 1/8” 19”

Height 18 1/2" 22” 26” 28 3/4" 32”

NOTE: If your child falls in between sizes we recommend to simply size up.

Finished Measurement Chart

Size 0-3 3-6 6-12 12-18 18-24

Bust 17 1/2” 18 5/8” 19 5/8” 20 1/2” 21”

Dress 13 7/8” 14 3/8” 15 5/8” 16 7/8” 17 1/2”

Length

NOTE: The finished measurements are taken from the top center of the shoulder
down to the bottom hem of the skirt. We highly recommend checking the finished
measurements up against your model before cutting your pattern pieces.

5
Size Guide:

Bust: Chloe Baby is designed to have 1 1/2” of ease for a slim to moderate fit. To
choose your size, measure your child’s chest, add 1 1/2” of ease to that
measurement and then choose the correct size on the FINISHED size chart. If your
child falls in between sizes we recommend to simply size up.

Length: Chloe Baby features a standard length dress. Chloe Baby sits
approximately above the top of the knee. Because all body proportions are so
different, please check the finished measurement against your child. Adjust the
length as needed. To adjust the length simply remove or add from the bottom
of the skirt pattern piece.

Sizing can be combined. Example: Combine a size 12-18mo bust with a size 18-
24mo height. See the diagram below. If your child is in between sizes we
recommend to simply size up.

6
Fabric Requirement Chart: (based on 44”-45” wide fabric)
Size 0-3 3-6 6-12 12-18 18-24
Bodice Front 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd.
& Back
(Main) &
Back Skirt
Placket

Bodice Front 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd. 1/4 yd.
& Back
Lining

Sleeve 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 5/8 yd. 3/4 yd.
Ruffles &
Sash Ties
Skirt Front 1 yd. 1 yd. 1 yd. 1 yd. 1 1/8 yd.
& Back
(Main)

Fabric We Recommend:
Cotton, Lightweight Cotton, Cotton Blends, Lightweight Denim, Linen, Linen blends,
Batiks, Double Gauze, Voile, Lawn, Silk Blends, Rayon, Poplin.

Supply List:

-Buttons (approximately 3-4)

-Snaps (optional) follow the instructions that come along with the snaps for
applying the snaps.
-Button Gauge Tool (found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Simflex-
Expanding-Sewing-Gauge-
Aluminum/dp/B01H96S8N8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=5388H7ZWEMWI&dchild=1&keywords=si
mflex+sewing+gauge&qid=1612814166&sprefix=sims%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-2)
-Fabric marker or chalk pen
-Fusible Stabilizer (optional)
-Measuring Tool (soft measuring tape or ruler)
*NOTE: All links are US based.

7
 Before you begin
-Allseam allowances are 1/2” unless mentioned otherwise. It is very important to read
carefully through each step of the written part of the tutorial to ensure that the seam
allowance remains the same.

-Gathering: Adjust your sewing machine to a long stitch. Sew a straight line 1/4” from the
top of the side to be gathered. Only backstitch at one end. Pull the bottom thread (the
bobbin thread). The fabric will gather and can be adjusted to the desired length. A double
row of gathering stitches is recommended for a professional look.

-Topstitch: Is a straight stitch sewn along on the right side of a garment seam, edge, or
trim. Once a seam has been sewn and serged or finished with a zigzag stitch, iron the
inside finished seam up and top stitch on the right side of the fabric close to the seam
edge. The topstitch will help to secure the finished inside seam and add extra stability and
will increase the life of the garment against pulling, tugging, and every day wear from our
loving, playful little ones.

-Ironing:
Ironing is a very important part of sewing and creating a garment. Please iron
when instructed.

-Pre-shrink machine-washable fabrics: Wash, dry, and fold fabric in half, length wise and
iron flat before beginning any project.

-Serge or Zig Zag Stitch: A Serge or Zig Zag stitch is used to cover any exposed raw
edge, or seam, for a professional finish. This also will keep the raw edge, or seam, from
fraying or unraveling.

Vintage Little Lady patterns are not intended for commercial use, although the purchaser
may create sewn items for personal use or sell the finished product. DO NOT duplicate any
part of this pattern as it is strictly prohibited. For more patterns and projects, please visit
www.vintagelittlelady.com To stay in the know with new releases, tips, and inspirational
projects, visit our Facebook group: Vintage Little Lady Pattern Group
(https://www.facebook.com/groups/535275296915107/). ©Vintage Little Lady 2018

8
 Cutting chart
Pattern pieces are provided for the following measurements below, however
these are rectangles. If you prefer not to print the rectangles, then please use
the chart and measurements below.

0-3 3-6 6-12 12-18 18-24

Chloe Baby Sleeve Ruffles: Cut 2- Length x Width

1 3/4” x 20 3/4” 1 3/4” x 21 1/4” 1 3/4” x 21 3/4” 1 3/4” x 22 1/4” 1 3/4” x 22 3/4”

Chloe Baby Sash Ties: Cut 4- Length x Width

1 5/8” x 15 5/8” 1 5/8” x 16 3/8” 1 5/8” x 17 1/8” 1 5/8” x 17 7/8” 1 5/8” x 18 1/4”

Chloe Baby Front & Back Skirt (Main): Cut 2- Length x Width

10 5/8” x 32” 10 3/4” x 33” 11 5/8” x 34” 12 1/2” x 35” 12 7/8” x 36”

9
Front & Back Drawings

10
 Printing guide
Print out all of the pattern pieces. This pattern contains trim pages. Simply trim
or fold along the dashed line. Arrange the pattern pieces as shown in picture
below, tape together and then cut your determined size. NOTE: See the
measurement chart on page 9 for information on pattern pieces that do not
require printing. If you choose to cut the rectangle pieces by measurement, you
will only need to print pages 40-43.

11
 Printing guide

Pattern Piece Page #

Back Skirt Placket 40

Front Bodice 41

Back Bodice 42-43

Front & Back Skirt 44-51

12
 Cutting guide
Cut all pattern pieces according to the diagram below.

NOTE: All pattern pieces are cut on the right side of the fabric

Pattern Pieces Cutting Instructions

A. Front Bodice Main FOLD FOLD

B. Back Bodice Main

D
C. Front Bodice Lining
D. Back Bodice Lining
E. Back Skirt Placket

E
B
F. Front Skirt Main
G. Back Skirt Main
C SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

FOLD
A

G
F
E
B

SELVEDGE
C
G
F

13
 Sewing instructions
(Rows of black dots indicate sew lines)

Creating the Sleeve Ruffles: (If you are omitting the sleeve ruffles, skip

down to step #4.) Check out our blog on how to get professional ruffle or skirt
gathers: https://vintagelittlelady.com/tutorials/get-professional-skirt-or-ruffle-
gathers/

1. Fold the sleeve ruffle in half width wise with the right sides together and iron
flat.

14
2. Pin along the short raw edge of the sleeve ruffle and sew. Repeat for the
opposite short raw edge of the sleeve ruffle. Trim half of the seam allowance,
clip the corners and turn the sleeve ruffle right side out and iron flat.

3. Next, Sew one or two rows of gathering stitches (long stitch) along the long
raw edge of the sleeve ruffle. Repeat steps 1-3 for the remaining sleeve ruffle.
Set sleeve ruffles aside.

15
Creating the Sash Ties: (If you are omitting the sash ties, skip down to step

#5.)

4. Place one sash tie main on top of another sash tie main and align the raw
edges. Pin around the entire sash tie leaving one short raw end open. Sew
around the pinned edges. Clip the corners and trim half of the seam allowance.
Using the open short raw end, turn the sash tie right side out and iron flat.
Repeat for the remaining sash tie main pieces.

16
DESIGNER TIP: We recommend using the “Dritz Turning Tool” used in the photos
below. We used the 3/8” Dritz Turning Tool to turn the sash ties right side out.
It makes the turning process easy and quick. You can find these turning tools
here: https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-796-Quick-
Turn/dp/B003LGZCZ8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Dritz+turning+tools&qid=16127
21938&sr=8-1

17
Constructing the Front & Back Bodice Main & Lining:
5. Next, place each back bodice main, with the right sides together on top of
the front bodice main. Align at each shoulder. Pin along the shoulders and sew.
Repeat for the front and back bodice lining.

6. Iron each sewn shoulder seam open and flat. Repeat for the lining.

*Designer Tip: Stabilize the back bodice main centers with fusible stabilizer. Cut
the fusible stabilizer the length of the back bodice center and then by 1 1/2”
wide. Fuse with an iron to the back bodice center. Repeat for the remaining
back bodice center. (This will stabilize your back bodice for buttons and
buttonholes.

18
Attaching the Sleeve Ruffles & Sash Ties to the Front Bodice
Main: (If you are omitting the sleeve ruffles and sash ties, skip down to step

#10. If you are omitting the sleeve ruffles only, skip down to step #9.)

7. Begin with one, short finished end of a sleeve ruffle, and place it 1” in from the
raw edge of the built in sleeve. Ensure that the raw edge of the sleeve ruffle is
aligned with the raw edge of the built in sleeve. Pin the short end of the sleeve
ruffle to the built in sleeve raw edge. Repeat with the remaining finished short
end of the sleeve ruffle and built in sleeve raw edge.

1”

1”

1”

19
8. Gather the sleeve ruffle in between the two pins. Then finish pinning the
gathered sleeve ruffle to the raw edge of the built in sleeve in between the
two pins. Baste (long stitch) the sleeve ruffle to the raw edge of the built in
sleeve using a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat steps 7-8 for the remaining built in
sleeve and sleeve ruffle.

20
9. (For both back or front sash tie option) Next, locate one finished sash tie.
Place the raw short end of the sash tie 1/2” up from the bottom raw edge of
the front bodice main on the raw edge side seam. Baste (long stitch) the sash
tie short end to the raw side seam. Repeat with the remaining sash tie on the
opposite side of the front bodice main.

10. Place the bodice lining on top of the bodice main with the right sides
together. Align the raw edges of the built in sleeves and pin together. Sew
along the built in sleeves only. Trim half of the seam allowance. NOTE: The
sleeve ruffle is now sandwiched between the bodice main and bodice lining.

21
11. Next, measure 1/2” up from the bottom, center raw edge of the back bodice
and place a pin. Repeat for the opposite back bodice.

12. Begin pinning up towards the neckline from the pins you just placed at the
bottom center back of the back bodice. Pin up both the center backs and
around the neckline. Sew along the pinned raw edges. Trim half of the seam
allowances, clip the corners, & clip the curves. NOTE: DO NOT sew below the
pins 1/2” up from the bottom raw edge of the center backs. These should be
left un-sewn.

22
13. Turn the bodice right side out and iron flat.

14. Next, separate the bodice main and the bodice lining at the un-sewn side
seams.

23
15. Place the open side seam, back bodice main and lining, on top of the open
side seam, front bodice main and lining. Pin along the squared “U” shape side
seams and sew. NOTE: Pictured below is the “no sash tie” version. If you are
creating the sash tie version, the sash tie will become sandwiched in between
the front bodice main side seam and the back bodice main side seam.

24
16. Clip into the corners being very careful not to clip the stitches. Iron the
seams open and flat. Repeat Steps 15-16 for the remaining side. Set bodice aside.

25
Constructing the Skirt:
17. We will be using the Back skirt ONLY for the back skirt placket. Begin by
locating the center of the back skirt piece and measure down 2 1/2” from the
center top raw edge. Mark with a pin. Cut down the center of the back skirt
and stop at the 2 1/2” marking. (Designer Tip: Fold the skirt in half and crease to
locate the center.)

26
18. Next, turn the back skirt piece over with the right side facing down and the
placket right side facing up. Now flip the back skirt placket down and place the
right side of the back skirt placket to the wrong side of the back skirt piece.
Align the center of the back skirt placket with the center of the cut “V” and
place a pin. Pin the back skirt placket all the way across and sew with 1/8”
seam allowance. You will notice a slight pucker in the center of the “V”. This is
correct and will disappear in a later step. (Designer Tip: Fold the back skirt
placket in half and crease to locate the center.)

19. Next, flip the back skirt placket up and away from the back skirt. Then turn
over the back skirt with the right side of the back skirt facing up. Iron the 1/8”
seam allowance up towards the back skirt placket.

27
20. Then turn the top raw edge of the placket down 1” and iron flat. Turn down
another 1” and iron flat. The folded edge of the placket should just cover the 1/8”
seam allowance stitch line. Pin along the back skirt placket edge. Next, sew
along the folded edge and trim off the excess on the ends.

1”

21. Swing the back skirt around to your right. The back skirt is now on your
right and the placket is now on your left in a vertical position. Fold the back
skirt placket up and in half.

28
22. Next, peel the top layer only, of the back skirt piece back to your left and
over the placket. The placket should now be non-visible from the left half of the
front skirt piece. Now, only pin the left side of the placket to the left half of the
back skirt, baste stitch with a 1/4” seam allowance.

23. Place the front skirt main and back skirt main with the right sides together
and the side seams lining up. Pin along each side seam and sew. Trim half of
the seam allowance and serge or zig zag stitch for a professional finish.

29
24. Next, turn the bottom raw edge of the skirt up towards the wrong side of
the skirt 1/4” and iron flat. Then turn up 1” and iron flat.

25. Pin along the ironed folded edge and sew all the way around the skirt.

30
26. Sew 1 or 2 rows of gathering stitches along the top raw edge of the skirt.
Do not sew through the skirt placket. Designer Tip: Check out our blog on how
to achieve professional ruffle or skirt gathers:
https://vintagelittlelady.com/tutorials/get-professional-skirt-or-ruffle-gathers/

Attaching the Bodice to the Skirt:

27. Separate the bodice main and the bodice lining. Begin at the 1/2” opening at
the bottom raw edge of the back bodice center. Turn up the bodice lining
bottom raw edge 1/2” and iron flat.

31
28. Gather the skirt the width of the bodice.

29. Place the skirt over the bodice main with the right sides together. The back
skirt placket will attach to the back bodice main centers. The basted side of the
back skirt placket will be on your right hand side. Disperse the gathers evenly.
Line up the side seams and pin the skirt to the bodice main all the way around.
Sew the skirt to the bodice main only.

30. Next, Place double sided sewing tape over the skirt seam allowance sew
line, all the way around. If you do not have double sided sewing tape, skip down
to step 31.

32
31. Pull the bodice lining out of the center of the skirt and place the 1/2” folded
edge over the double sided sewing tape (if you are using tape), just covering
the skirt seam allowance sew line and press firmly. If you do not have sewing
tape simply secure with pins. The skirt is now encased in-between the bodice
main and bodice lining.

32. Turn the dress right side out and top stitch along the waist seam of the
bodice. Once you reach the sash ties, simply pull the sash tie up and away from
the waist seam and continue to sew underneath the sash tie all the way
around the bodice.

33
Creating the Buttonholes:
33. Turn the dress over to the back bodice. Measure up from the finished waist
seam 1/2” and in from the finished center back 1/2” and place a mark with a
fabric or chalk pen. This will mark the bottom of your buttonhole away from the
waist seam.

34. Next, mark 1/4” down from the finished neckline and 1/2” in from the finished
center back edge. This will be the start of the first buttonhole.

34
35. Use a buttonhole gauge to space the buttonholes out evenly. Take the dress
to your sewing machine and create the buttonholes following your markings.
Designer Tip: The Simflex Buttonhole Gauge can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/Simflex-Expanding-Sewing-Gauge-
Aluminum/dp/B01H96S8N8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=5388H7ZWEMWI&dchild=1&keywords=si
mflex+sewing+gauge&qid=1612814166&sprefix=sims%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-2

36. Overlap the bodice back left side onto the right, overlapping 1” and pin to
hold in place. Split the buttonholes open and mark the center of the buttonhole
on the underlying bodice with a fabric or chalk pen.

35
37. Sew the buttons over the markings and button up the dress.

38. If you are creating the version where the sash ties tie in the back you are
now finished. CONGRATULATIONS, you have just created the FREE Chloe dress. If
you are creating the version where the sash ties tie in the front skip down to
step 39 to continue.

36
39. Locate the center of the front bodice at the waist seam and place a pin.

Designer Tip: For a quick way to locate the center, simply fold the front bodice
in half lining up the side seams and crease the center.

40. Next, pull the sash tie across and in line with the waist seam of the front
bodice main stopping 1/2” from the center pin. Place a pin to secure.

37
41. Continue to pin the sash tie down in line with the front bodice waist seam in
between the 1/2” pin and side seam. Sew along the pinned seams, sewing the
sash tie down to the front bodice on top and bottom of the sash tie. Repeat
steps 40-41 for the opposite side of the front bodice and sash tie. Designer Tip:
We recommend sewing the bottom finished edge of the sash tie located on the
waist seam of the front bodice first. Then sew the top of the sash tie.

42. You now should have a 1” gap in the center of the front bodice.

38
43. Tie the two sash ties just like the first step to tying a shoe. Then pull the
right sash tie up towards the neckline and the left sash tie down towards the
skirt. Finish off with tying in a bow.

44. CONGRATULATIONS, you now have created the FREE Chloe dress!

39
 1
1” Test
Square

ne nli
rai G

Back Skirt Placket (All Sizes)

Chloe
Cut 1 Main

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 2
18-24m
12-18m

6-12m
18-24m
3-6m 12-18m

0-3m 6-12m

3-6m
18-24m
12-18m 0-3m
6-12m
3-6m
0-3m

Baby Chloe
Cut 2 on the fold
(1 Main, 1 Lining)

Front Bodice
Grainline

1/2” Seam Allowance Included 18

-
0-3m 3-6m 6-12m 12-18m 24m

18
-
0-3m 3-6m 6-12m 12-18m 24m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 3
18-24m
12-18m

6-12m
18-24m
12-18m 3-6m

6-12m 0-3m
3-6m
0-3m

Baby Chloe
Back Bodice
Cut 4 Mirrored (2 Main, 2 Lining)
1/2” Seam Allowance Included
Grainline

18
-
24m 12-18m 6-12m 3-6m 0-3m

18
-
24m 12-18m 6-12m 3-6m 0-3m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 4
18-24m
12-18m

6-12m

3-6m

0-3m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 5
18-24m 12-18m 6-12m 3-6m 0-3m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 6
0-3m

Baby
Grainline

Front &
1/2” Seam Al

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 Baby Chloe
Front & Back Skirt
1/2” Seam Allowance Included
7
©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 8
Cut 2 Main on the fold

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 9
0-3m
3-6m

6-12m

12-18m

18-24m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
 10
0-3m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
0 11
©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com
1 12
0-3m
3-6m

6-12m

12-18m

18-24m

©Vintage Little Lady 2021. All Rights Reserved. For Personal use only. www.vintagelittlelady.com