1HERSA1 E002

02 9964 9998 ONR PA| & NORTHO|lFF STREETS, Ml|SONS POlNT 2061 www.aquad|n|ng.com.au
S75
FOR 3 OORSES SE|EOTED FROM
THE A |A OARTE MEN WlTH
OPTlONA| BYO
Available Sat Lunch, Sun Lunch or Sun Dinner. BYO available with this offer only, corkage $12 per bottle.

CO/E CE|ES|/7E H|7| /OU/ D|^|^G /5 |7 57E|5 |^7O |7'5 5ECO^D DEC/DE
Serving Mon - Sun Lunch & Dinner. BYO not available with this offer.
Sc9
FOR A 5 OORSE TASTlNG MEN
WlTH OPTlONA| MATOHlNG WlNES
FOR AN ADDlTlONA| $49
Limbering up for
Cheese Olympics
Baristas and sommeliers have their
owncompetitions, why not
cheesemongers?Claudia Bowman
fromMcIntosh&Bowmantravels to
NewYork this week as a competitor
inthe Cheesemonger Invitational, the
Olympic Games for those whoprefer
rings made of formaggio. Aseries of
events awaits the international
competitors, including a blind cheese
tasting. Bowman(pictured) concedes
shes a little nervous about the
cheese cut and wrap, being unfamiliar
withimperial weights. She has a few
tricks up her sleeve for her cheese
plate (kangarooprosciutto) but one
event has a touch of the talent show.
Contestants are required toget up in
front of an audience of 500devotees
and state their name, business and
their favourite cheese and why. If only
Australia produced a washed-rind
named World Peace. I was thinking
of breaking out my green-and-gold
Lycra jumpsuit, she says.
Italianduos set for
Rushcutters duel
SCOTT BOLLES
Flavio&Fabios is surelytoogooda
moniker topass upbut its unlikelyto
bethename hangingabovethedoor
of arestaurant openingnext toRob
Marchetti andMauriceTerzinis
(pictured) soon-to-openeateryin
Rushcutters Bay. Theformer
manager of Fratelli Paradiso, Flavio
Carnevale, andanother Fratelli
alumnus, FabioDore, arebehindthe
newrestaurant. It is listedwiththe
workingnamePopoloona
development applicationlodgedwith
theCityof Sydney. Thefruit andveg
operator JohnParisi, whosold
Parisis inRose Bay, is alsoinvolved
intherestaurant. It will
have anItalianmenu
ironic, givenits
neighbours are some
of Sydneys best-
knownItalian
restaurateurs,
the operators
of North
Bondi
ItalianFood.
Marchetti
and Terzinis
new
restaurant,
whichopens in
September, will
steer a broader
Mediterranean
brief and
include lamb and
goat souvlaki.
2 Tuesday, July 5, 2011 smh.com.au
good living short black
Harbour city ready for a newMexican wave
Talking tacos ... the Barrio Chino teamNarenYoung, Nicole Galloway, Peter Lewand Joe Hargrave. Photo: Tamara Dean
Sydneys current infatuationwith Mexicanfood is at
blushing point and a SanFranciscorestaurateur is about
tojointhe love-in. Joe Hargrave, owner of Tacolicious
voted in SanFrans top five newrestaurants last year
is the overseas partner at Barrio Chino, the Mexican
restaurant backed by Fei Jai owners Peter Lewand
Nicole Galloway, opening this week onBayswater Road,
Kings Cross. Mexicanand Sydney used togotogether like
chickenand pasta but Hargrave believes hes riddeninto
townjust as there is revolutionfor authenticity inthe air.
While surprised by the lack of ingredients he takes for
granted back home, Hargrave believes south-east Asian
and Mexicanrawmaterials are interchangeable. Youve
got lots of chilli and coriander, the Mexicans dont have
muchand make do. That approachis authentic, he says.
His biggest eye-opener is the small variety of tequila in
Australia. And I cant believe howmuchyoupay for
booze, its about 200per cent more thanwe do, he says.
NarenYoung, barmanat the nowclosed Bayswater
Brasserie, will head up BarrioChinos bar.
+SmithsonBayswater
chef TonyGibson
departedtherestaurant
at theweekend, citinga
changeof direction at
theBayswater Road
restaurant as thereason
behindhis departure.
Big chop for Leichhardt meat shop
ACButcheryclosed its NortonStreet, Leichhardt, store last weekend and
its outlet at the St Margarets development at Surry Hills may follow. AC
manager Joe Drago says a massive rent increase is behind the Norton
Street decision. But our chickenshop there [Norton Street] will stay
open, he says. Dragoscotched rumours the St Margarets store had
already closed but admitted finding staff tokeep it going had caused some
periodic problems. He says a buyer is sniffing: If all goes according to
plan, itll be sold by the end of next month.
INDEX
good living
JULY 5, 2011
FLOUR
POWER
Pastry chefs unite
At your leisure: the
pleasures of slowcooking
Super food:
CSIROcereal
Ataste of
whats inside
Seasonfor stew Where toeat
the Greek classic, stifado ............. 4
Fashionable but fun The
Strand Arcade has a new
pizza place ........................................ 5
Butter-free mixture Kate
Gibbss orange and lemonolive
oil cake ............................................... 7
Science for breakfast Cereal
fromthe CSIRO ............................... 9
Risingstars Pastry chefs inthe
spotlight ........................................... 10
Take it easy The art of slow
cooking for winter.......................... 12
Cover: MilkchocolateandGrand
Marnier moussewithorange
bruleeandpoppyseedmacarons
bychef JohnRalleyfromManta
Restaurant. Photo: StevenSiewert
Editor Sue Bennett
phone 9282 1141
sue.bennett@smh.com.au
@SueBennettSMH
Deputy editor Jacqui Taffel
phone 9282 1703
jtaffel@smh.com.au
Short Black
phone 9664 5599
bolles@tpg.com.au
Advertising
Mercedes Carrion
phone 9282 3404
mcarrion@fairfaxmedia.com.au
Feedback and inquiries
readerlink@smh.com.au
phone 9282 1569
fax 9282 3253