FANCY YARN

Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. They are suitable for
use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope
making. However, fancy yarn deviates from the normal yarns. These deviations occur mainly due to
introduction of deliberate decorative discontinuities in the form of colour, structure or both. The size
and value of the market for fancy yarn is negligible. However, fancy yarns appear mainly in high
value items, so their small volumes cannot be ignored. The fancy yarn gives a fancy touch to the
fabrics to a broad range of end uses. Significant demand for the fancy yams is the ladies and children
outerwear.
The basic profiles of the fancy yarns are Spiral, Gimp, Slub, Knob, Loop, Cover, Chenille and Snarl
yarns. The fancy effect can be optioned with two ways:

1. By twisting and or doubling technique

2. With spun effect by means of fibres. The effects may be randomized and regular effects.
Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn:
A ground (core) component, an effect component and a binder in a fancy yarn are shown in the
following figure. To obtain structural effect, longer length of effect component, relative to ground
component must be present to form the required effect. Twisting of the effect component on to the
ground component will produce aesthetic effect.

Fig: Basic components of Fancy yarn

The basic principle is therefore to feed the ground and effect component at different speeds in to the
twisting element. The percentage ratio of the effect component to the ground component is called
over feed ratio.

Fancy Yarn Manufacturing Systems:

The above figure shows the fancy yarn manufacturing system .The classification is made based on
the twisting, brushing and spinning process.

Classification of Fancy Yarns:

There are four main criteria recognized for the classification of fancy yarns. They are,

1. Type of raw material used for effect making

2. Number of Ground and Effect making material components
3. Method of manufacture
 4. Type of Effect produced
5. End use of fancy yarns
Classification of fancy yarns is done according to the type and form of material used for effect
making. Type of material used for effect making refers basic material of the components, viz; cotton,
wool, silk, polyester, nylon, blend etc. Whereas form of material refers forms of components used
for the intended purpose. The components can be not only yarns made from staple fibers or
filaments but also the lengths of yarns and/or filament, fabric pieces made up of woven material or
knitted material or non-woven material as well as the polymer cover for the decorative coating of
core component. They can be tape/ ribbon, metallic yarns etc. added for decorative means. The
number and type of components virtually change the structure and exterior of the fancy yarn. The
number of the components can differ from one to six and more. The classification based on method
of manufacturing basically deals with direct or indirect process of getting fancy effect. Direct group
deals with production of fancy yarn in single step by specialized equipment, viz; twister for fancy
yarn making, special knitting machine etc. Whereas, and indirect category does not use specialized
equipment for the production of fancy yarn. The production delays by the number of machines in
sequence. Fancy yarn produced by ring spinning system is the best example for this category.
Following figure describes the classification of fancy yarn based on the type of effects. Grouping of
fancy yarn is based on the type of effects earned. Mainly deals with the variation in the optical,
structural and compound effect.

Figure: Classification of Fancy Yarns according to the type of the Effect

Types of Fancy Yarn:

1. Marl Yarn
The simplest among the fancy yarns, is the marl yarn and is made by twisting two different
coloredyarns together in a yarn doubling process. It has a different texture from normaldouble yarn.
The yarn structure shown in Figure clearly shows the alternation of colours ofthe two yarns, which
is the principal effect of marl yarn, as well as exhibiting the plain structure,which is that of an
ordinary folded yarn. These yarns are used to make discreet pinstripes inmen’s suiting or to produce
a subtly and irregularly patterned knitted fabric with a relativelysimple fabric construction. They
may also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarnwith strong support, while at the same
time creating a more subtle effect.

2. Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn

A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn displaying the characteristic smooth spiralling of oneyarn
component around the other and is very similar to the structure of a marl yarn. Below Figure shows
the basic structure, which is straightforward, except in the differing lengths of the twoyarns used.

3. Gimp Yarn
A gimp yarn consists of at least three component yarns—the core, the effect, and the binder—and is
produced in two stages. In the first stage, the core and the effect, which is usually overfed, are
twisted together, producing an intermediate yarn similar to a spiral. In the second stage, the
intermediate yarn is twisted together with the binder yarn with a twist that is opposite in direction to
the twist used in the first stage. This reverse binding process removes most of the first stage twist.
This leads to the effect yarn forming wavy projections on the yarn surface, and these projections are
secured onto the core yarn by the binder yarn. The basic structure of a gimp yarn is illustrated in
below Figure

4. Boucle Yarn
The boucle yarn is very similar in construction to the gimp yarn. It requires a minimum of three
component yarns: core, effect, and binder; and it is produced in two stages. The yarn construction is
illustrated in Figure-7. The main difference between a boucle yarn and a gimp yarn is that the wavy
projections on the boucle yarn surface are further away from the yarn body, a result of greater
overfeeding of the effect yarn during the first twisting stage. On the account of greater overfeed, the
effect spirals very loosely around the core following the first twisting stage. The wavy projections
can be more easily distorted during the second twisting stage, leading to a more variable yarn
appearance.
5. Loop Yarn
A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect yarn wrapped around it and overfed to produce anearly
circular loopy projection on its surface. Figure shows the structure of a loop yarn,in this case
somewhat simplified by showing the core as two straight bars. In reality, the corealways consists of
two yarns twisted together, which entraps the effect yarn. As a general rule,four yarns are involved
in the construction. Two of these form the core or ground yarns. Theeffect yarn(s) are formed with
an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these tobe of the correct type and of good
quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and pliable yarn is needed.The effect yarn is not completely
entrapped by the ground threads and therefore a binder isnecessary. The size of the loops is
determined by the level of overfeed, the groove space on thedrafting rollers, the spinning tension or
the twist level of the effect yarn. Loop yarns can alsobe made with slivers in place of yarns for
effect.

6. Snarl Yarn
Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for the sake of simplicity, thecore is
shown in Figure 1.11 as two parallel bars. A snarl yarn displays ‘snarls’ or ‘twists’projecting from
the core. It is produced by similar method to the loop yarn, but uses a lively,high-twist yarn and a
somewhat greater degree of overfeed as the effect yarn. The required sizeand frequency of the snarls
may be obtained by careful control of the details of overfeed andspinning tension, and by the level of
twist in the effect yarn.

7. Knop Yarn(Spot yarn/Nub yarn)

A knop yarn contains prominent bunches of one or more of its component threads, which
arearranged at regular or irregular intervals along its length . It is normally producedby using an
apparatus with two pairs of rollers, each capable of being operated independently.This makes it
possible to deliver the base threads intermittently, while the knopping threadsthat create the effect
are delivered continuously. The knopping threads join the foundationthreads below the knopping
bars. The insertion of twist collects the knopping threads into abunch or knop. The vertical
movement of the knopping threads forms a bunch or knop. Thevertical movement of the knopping
bars determines whether the knop is small and compact orspread out along the length of the yarn.

8. Slub Yarn
This is a yarn in which slubs are deliberately created to make the desired effect of
discontinuity.Slubs are thick places in the yarn that may take the form of a very gradual change, with
only aslight thickening of the yarn at its thickest point. Alternatively, a slub may be three or
fourtimes the thickness of the base yarn and the increase in thickness may be achieved within ashort
length of yarn. The yarn pictures in Figure should give a clear impression of thestructure of the yarn
itself.

Figure Knop, slub and fasciated yarns

9. Fasciated Yarn
This is a staple-fibre yarn that consists of a core of parallel fibres bound together by wrapperfibres.
Yarns made by the air-jet spinning method are structured in this way. Yarns producedby the hollow
spindle method are also frequently described as fasciated, as the binder is appliedto an essentially
twistless core of parallel fibres. The fasciated yarn shown in above Figure isproduced using the
hollow spindle process. It is possible to see fibres that have escaped thedark binding thread and
contrast with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in making the
yarn.
10. Tape Yarn
Tape yarns may be produced using various processes including braiding, warp knitting andweft
knitting .In recent years, these materials have become better known,especially in fashion knitwear. It
is also possible to use narrow woven ribbons, narrow tapes ofnonwoven material, or slit film in the
same way.

11. Chainette Yarn

Chainette yarn, shown in Figure below, is produced in a miniature circular weft knitting process,
often using a filament yarn and a ring of between 6 and 20 needles. The process has been used
on a small scale for many years and is now used extensively in fashion knitwear.

Figure -Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn

12. Chenille Yarn
True chenille yarns are produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is slit into narrow,warp-
wise strips to serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the pile length may be uniformthroughout the
length of the yarn or may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregulardimensions. Chenille yarns are
used in furnishings and apparel. Chenille yarns, as shown in above Figure, have a soft, fuzzy cut pile
that is bound to a core. These yarns can be spun, but themachinery required is very much
specialised. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on
a loom. The effect yarn forms the warp, which is bound by a weft thread. The weft thread isspaced
out at a distance of twice the required length of pile. The warp is then cut halfwaybetween each weft
thread.
13. Ribbon Yarns
These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely knitted tubes, pressed flat to
resemble ribbon or tape. The ribbons are usually soft, shiny and silky.

14. Metallic Yarns

These have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns may be made of monofilamentfibres or
ply yarns. Two processes are commonly used to produce metallic yarns. Thelaminating process seals
a layer of aluminium between two layers of acetate or polyester film,which is then cut into strips for
yarns, as shown in Figure below The film may be transparent,so the aluminium foil shows through,
or the film and/or the adhesive may be coloured beforethe laminating process. The metallising
process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and
deposits it on the polyester film.

15. Crepe yarn & Cable yarn

A basic crepe yarn is a 3-ply yarn made with a 2-ply and a singles. The 2-ply is spun Z in the
singles and over plied S. The single is spun S with enough twist to make a regular balanced ply and
plied Z with the original 2-ply. The yarn looks bubbly when it’s finished. The single traps the 2-ply
which pushes out between the singles as it untwists and expands on its second ply.
A basic cable yarn is two 2-ply yarns spun Z in the singles and over plied S in the first ply then
plied together Z to finish. The yarn looks pebbly, like a bridge cable. On the second ply, the two 2-
ply yarns lock together and bloom.

16. Textured yarn

Texturing is the formation of crimp, loops, coils, or crinkles in filaments. Such changes in the
physical form of a fibre (several examples of which are shown in Figure below) affect the behavior
and hand of fabrics made from them. Hand, or handle, is a general term for the characteristics
perceived by the sense of touch when a fabric is held in the hand, such as drapability, softness,
elasticity.
17. Tyre cord
Tyre cords are high tensile-strength cords that are used as reinforcing material to bolster the strength
of final product. They are manufactured by twisting continuous-filament tyre grade yarn in S or Z
directions and then plying them into 2 or 3 plies. Raw material is typically Polyester or Nylon yarn.

18. Sewing threads yarn:

Sewing thread is a flexible, small diameter yarn or strand usually treated with a surface coating,
lubricant or both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a
material. It may be defined as smooth, evenly spun, hard-twisted ply yarn, treated by a special
finishing process to make it resistant to stresses in its passage through the eye of a needle and
through material involved in seaming and stitching operations.
Sewing threads are used in garments, upholstery, air-supported fabric structures and geotextiles to
join different components by forming a seam. The primary function of a seam is to provide uniform
stress transfer from one piece of fabric to another, thus preserving the overall integrity of the fabric
assembly.

Application or End uses of fancy yarn:

1. Used in weaving of suiting, shirting, dress material, upholstery, furnishing fabric and woolen
tweeds.
2. They are also used in knitting and braiding.
3. These are used for beauty and appeal enhancement.

Market Potential of Fancy Yarns:

While considering the market for fancy yarns, we need to remember that these goods are not
commodity items, and nor will they ever be. Their purpose is to add colour or texture, or both. So
market value of fancy yarns will remain negligible with compared to the rest of the textile market.
But due to the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China a great interest in
fancy yarn area is noticed in textile market all over the world. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns
sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each
other to offer more and more sophisticated products.

Blending of Cotton Polyester Fiber to Produce PC / CVC Yarn

CVC Yarn: 

In a cotton polyester blended yarn, when the amount of cotton fiber is more than polyester fibre it
is called CVC yarn. Here CVC stands for Chief Value of Cotton i.e., the ratio of cotton fibre is
always above 50% or more.

Example: 30 s/1 Ne (60/40) CVC Yarn means, It is a 30 count single ply cotton-polyester blended
yarn where the ratio of cotton fibre to polyester fibre is 60 to 40.

PC Yarn: 

A polyester cotton fibre blended yarn is called PC yarn, but in general where the amount of
polyester fibre is more than cotton fibre is called PC yarn. Here PC stands for Polyester Cotton.

Example: 30 s/1 (60/40) Ne PC Yarn means, It is a 30 count single ply cotton-polyester blended
yarn where the ratio of polyester fibre to cotton fibre is 60 to 40.

It can be said that every CVC yarn is also PC yarn but all the PC yarns are not CVC yarn.

The most popular reason for blending is that of combining the properties of two or more fibers.
Blending of different fibers is also used to increase aesthetic effects in the fabric.

 
Polyester/cotton blend is an example; a good end use is in suiting. Polyester is a man-made
fiber with high abrasion resistance and cotton is a natural fiber and has good moisture absorbency
& feel.

Blending Process of Cotton-Polyester Fibre:

To produce a CVC/PC yarn the fibers must be blended before it reaches to ring frame machine as
roving. This blending process mainly can be done in two manners.

1. Fibre Blending:

According to the blending ratio of cotton & polyester fibre in the yarn, numbers of cotton &
polyester bales are given in the laydown in blowroom using bale management. Then the both fibres
pass consecutively through the fibreplucker machine- mostly used - Uniflock (Rieter) or Blendomat
(Trutzschler) machine and then gradually different cleaning machines. The homogenous blending of
fibres takes place at mixing machine- mostly used as- Unimix (Rieter) or Multimixer (Trutzschler)
machine. This type of mixing/blending is called fibre blending. From this type of blending, blended
card slivers can be obtained. Then the regular spinning flow chart is followed till ring frame
machine to produce PC/CVC blended yarn.

Fig: Polyester-cotton fibre blending in blowroom

2. Sliver Blending:

In this process, cotton fibres& polyester fibres are processed through separate machines from
blowroom to carding. Then the separate card slivers are made from polyester & cotton. After that, to
ensure better blending, the polyester carded slivers are passed through one phase draw frame which
is known as pre-pass phase to keep the sliver hank as optimum as possible. After that according to
the required blended ratio the slivers are blended in breaker draw frame. In draw frame slivers are
doubled, drafted & blended to the required ratio. After that, conventional spinning process is
followed till ring frame machine to produce PC/CVC yarn.
 Fig: Polycotton sliver blending in draw frame

After a lot of experiments, it has been noticed that sliver blending is slightly better than fibre
blending. In sliver blending the ratio of cotton & polyester can be maintained more precisely than
fibre blending.
EXPLAINATION OF THE 4 STAGES IN TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Currently, textile production units include significant quality of textile process for manufacturing
that adds value in fiber. The cloth production is not an output of few stages but it do undergoes from
various steps. The process describing the stages of manufacturing procedure is listed below:

 STEP1: Spinning
 STEP 2: Weaving
 STEP 3: Dyeing + Printing + Finishing
 STEP 4: Garments Manufacturing

The description of all stages of Textile manufacturing process are provided below:

SPINNING PROCESS:
Spinning is a procedure of producing/converting fiber materials in yarns. On an initial stage it goes
through the blowroom where the size of cotton becomes smaller by the help of machinery followed
by carding. After carding, the process is continued by drawing which includes attenuating
in spinning mills. The silver produced by drawing is then processed for combining where consistent
size of cloth is attained. It is then stepped further for roving for purpose to prepare input package.
This roving is attenuated by rollers and then spun around the rotating spindle.

WEAVING PROCESS:
Weaving is second level after spinning. Here, the yarn from spinning section is sent further for
doubling and twisting. It is than processed for shifting of yarn in convenient form of package
containing sufficient yarn length. At the stage of creeling the exhausted packages are replaced with
the new ones which is followed by wraping. The wrap yarn is provided a protective coating to lessen
the breakage of yarn which is called as sizing. It is considered as an important segment. This yarn is
then processed for winding on weavers beam supported by the final step of weaving.

DYEING + PRINTING + FINISHING PROCESS:

Dyeing as well as printing of fabrics are usually carried before the application of other finishes to the
product in dyeing mills. It provides colour to fabric and also improves the appearance of it. The
product is then converted from woven to knitted cloth known as finishing. Finishing is specifically
carried after dyeing or printing to give a specific look.

GARMENT MANUFACTURING PROCESS:  

Garment manufacturing is the end procedure converting semi-finished cloth into finished cloth.
There are various steps completed by garment manufacturing companies for the production of cloth.
These processes include- Designing, Sampling, Costing, Maker Making Cutting, Sewing Washing,
Finishing, Packing, Final Inspection, Dispatch and much more.

The above description could provide you a brief idea about the textile process in industries.
Apparel/cloth is not an outcome generated in simple steps instead it includes lengthy mechanical
procedures. Decades ago, the traditional method of producing cloth was used which is now been
replaced by automated textile machinery in specific mills like spinning mills, Ginning Mills, Dyeing
Mills, Processing Units and more. 
Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing Process
Garments Manufacturing:
A complete garment has to face several processes from its order receiving to shipment.
During garments manufacturing, a process flow chart must be needed to complete an order easily.
Also, a process flow chart helps to understand a garment manufacturing method that how the raw
materials are converted into wearable garments.
Flow Chart of Garments Manufacturing Process / Technology:
A basic garment manufacturing flow chart is presented below:
Design
↓
Pattern Making
↓
Fit Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Garments Inspection
↓
Garments Ironing and Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Garments Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Shipment

Each process of garments manufacturing flow chart is discussed in the below with the details:
1. Design:
Design is provided by the buyer. After placing an order buyer send the technical sheet and art-work
of an order to the merchandiser. This process is done both manually or by using the computer.
2. Pattern Making:
By following the technical sheet and art-work, the pattern of each garment style should be made. It’s
done both manually and by using a computerized method.
3. Fit Sample Making:
The main target of making a fit sample is to follow the detailed instruction about the style of that
garment. After making it’s sent to the buyer to rectify. It’s done manually.
4. Production Pattern Making:
For bulk production, allowance is added here with net dimension. Production Pattern Making is done
both manually and by using the computer.
5. Grading:
During an order confirmation, the buyer suggests the size ratio of that order. So that order should be
graded according to the buyer’s instruction. Grading is done manually or by using the computer.
6. Marker Making:
Marker is a very thin paper that contains all the parts of a particular garment. To make the cutting
process easy, it’s must be needed. Marker making process can be done both manually and by using
the computer.
7. Fabric Spreading:
To cut the fabric properly fabric is spread inlay form. Fabric Spreading is done manually or by using
a computerized method.
8. Fabric Cutting:
Fabrics have to cut here according to the marker of garments. The fabric Cutting process is done by
using a manual method or computerized method.
9. Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling:
Here, cutting parts have to sort out or make bundling to send these easily into the next process. This
process is done manually.
10. Sewing:
All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment. The sewing process is done
manually.
11. Garments Inspection:
After completing sewing, inspection should be done here to make fault free garments. Garments
Inspection is done by using the manual method.
12. Garments Ironing and Finishing:
Here garments are treated by steam; also required finishing should be completed here. This process
is done by using the manual method.
13. Final Inspection:
Finally, the complete garments are inspected here according to the buyer’s specification. Final
Inspection is done by manual method.
14. Garments Packing:
Complete garments are packed here by using the buyer’s instructed poly bag. Garments packing are
done by using the manual method.
15. Cartooning:
To minimize the damages of garments, all the garments have to cartooned by maintaining buyers’
instruction. This process is done manually.
16. Shipment:
After completing all the required processes it’s finally sent to the buyer
 Fabric Cutting:
Cutting department plays very important role in any apparel industry. To make a complete garment, cutting is
necessary. Without cutting process to make a cloth is out of dream. Cutting is the process which cut out the
pattern pieces from specified fabric for making apparel with the help of marker. Normally the marker is applied
(drawn, traced, sprayed, clipped, pinned) on to the top ply of a lay. Consistent fabric cutting is responsible for
perfect garments making.

Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:

Various types of cutting machine are used in apparel production. From many years hand operated scissor is
used for cutting fabric. But after industrialization hand scissors are not appropriate for bulk layer cutting. Then
started semi automatic fabric cutting machine. For increasing productivity in cutting room computerized fully
automatic cutting machine have to use.
According to the working process, the cutting machine may be classified in three categories. Such as-
1. Manual cutting machine
2. Semi- Automatic cutting machine
3. Fully Automatic / Computerized cutting machine
1) Manual Cutting Machine:
 Hand Operated Scissor
2) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:
 Straight knife of Cutting Machine.
 Round Knife Cutting Machine.
 Band Knife Cutting Machine.
 Die Cutting Machine.
 Notcher Machine.
 Drill Machine.
3) Fully Automatic / Computerized Cutting Machine:
 Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine.
 Laser Cutting Machine.
 Water Jet Cutting Machine.
 Rib Cutting Machine
 Air jet Cutting Machine.
 Ultrasonic Cutting Machine.
 Plasma Torch Cutting Machine
Manual Cutting Machine:
We can understand scissor as a manual cutting machine. Scissor only used when cutting only  single or
double plies. Almost every type of cloth is cut by scissor. But it takes huge time for fabric cutting. So it is
not used in bulk production.
2) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:
Straight Knife of Cutting Machine: 
Straight knife cutting machine is the most popular and versatile cutting machine. It is widely used in clothing
industry. Because it’s production speed is very high. Higher lay of height can be cut very easily. Besides, knife
is comparatively cheap and can be transferred from one place to another easily.
 Round Knife Cutting Machine:
Round knife cutting machine is called because it’s cutter is round in shape. It is also popular cutting machine.
This machine is small in size, flexible & used for small production. Round knife is widely used for cutting the
big parts of the garments pattern.

Fig: Round knife cutting machine

Band Knife Cutting Machine:
Band knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machine. This cutting machine works automatically
according to the height of the relevant material. Band knife cutting machines have been recognized around
the world for many years for its high quality cutting.

Fig: Band knife cutting machine

Die Cutting Machine:
Die cutting machine involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric. It is useful where small motifs
with particular shape and pattern are needed for cutting. Die cutting is most useful to cut sharp and small
parts. Mainly two types of die cuttings are available in market namely, Clickers and Presses.
Fig: Die cutting machine
Notcher Cutting Machine:
It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case. Useful to cut small notch to the fabric. It is most
useful to make consistency in notching. This cannot be used in thermoplastic fibers or certain unlined
garments.

Fig: Notcher Cutting Machine

Drill Cutting Machine:
Sometimes it is needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for the  position of pockets,
darts and similar features, a hole is often drill through all the plies of fabric in the lay. This machine is also
used for marking on the middle of the components of dresses. It can make the hole permanently for a long.
Fig: Drill Cutting Machine
3) Fully Automatic / Computerized Cutting Machine:
Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine:
This cutting machine provides the most accurate possible cutting at high speed. It is suitable for large scale
production. Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting. This technology has the
advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques.

Fig: Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine

Laser Cutting Machine:
In laser cutting machine, the fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot by using a laser. Laser cutting
processing depends on its precise processing, faster, simple operation, high degree of automation has been
widely used in the leather and apparel industry. The cutting head is controlled by a computer.
Fig: Laser cutting machine
Water Jet Cutting Machine:
Water jet cutting machine is an industrial tool capable of cutting fabric lay by using a very high-pressure
jet of water. A very fine water-jet is passed through a nozzle at a very high speed to cut the fabric lay. The
pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch. The high pressure jet acts as a solid tool when it
encounters the material to be cut, tearing the fibers on impact.

Fig: Water jet cutting machine

Rib Cutting Machine:
These are specialized machines used to cut rib or rolls of strips from knitted tubular fabrics. Knit garment
industry uses this machine widely.
Fig: Rib Cutting Machine
Plasma Torch Cutting Machine:
Plasma cutting was originally developed to satisfy our demand for high quality cutting. It is used for cutting
stainless steel and aluminum. But it can also be used to cut textile material. In this system, fabrics are cut by
a thin through the nozzle which is made by Argon gas.

Fig: Plasma Torch Cutting Machine

Different Types of Industrial Sewing Machines and
Their Use
Industrial sewing machines are normally used in mass garment production. An industrial sewing
machine is power-driven and runs at very high speed. There are different types of industrial sewing
machines. There are some special sewing machines developed for making specific seam and stitch
classes.
To have in-depth knowledge of sewing machines, different types of sewing machines are listed in this
post. Application of these machines is also mentioned with an example. This would help beginners to
visualize the machine’s application in making the common products.

1. Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

This machine makes lock stitches (stitch class 301). Lock stitches are formed with one needle thread and
one bobbin thread. This is a widely used sewing machine and used for sewing stitch class 301. Basic to
computer-controlled version is available in this machine category.

Purpose: Single needle lock stitch machines are used for joining two or multiple fabric plies together.
The machine is used to sew lightweight, medium weight and heavy materials.

Lock stitch machine

2. Overlock Sewing Machine

Overlock machines are available in 3 threads, 4 threads and 5 threads over edge sewing. An overlock
machine can form various type of stitches like, stitch class 503, stitch class 504 and stitch class 512.

Purpose: This machine is used for serging garment panels (for example: trouser panels serging) and for
overedge stitch. These types of machine are mostly used in knitted garment sewing for overedge stitch.
Like side seam stitch of a t-shirt is done using an overlock machine.

Overlock sewing machine

Overlock stitch

3. Flatlock sewing machine

This machine is called a cover-stitch sewing machine. Flatlock sewing machines normally come with 2-3
needles. For bottom cover stitch machine 2 needle threads pass through the material and inter loop with 1
looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Flatlock sewing machine form stitches like
Stitch class 406.

Flatlock machines are available in two types - Flatbed and Cylinder bed.

Usage of these machines: Flatlock machines are used for hemming sleeve and bottom of the knits
products. A cover-stitch machine can be used in any part of the garment for decorative purpose. 

Flat lock machine / Cover edge stitching machine (Flat bed type) 

4. Feed off the Arm 

This machine is used in making flat and felt seam. Two needle threads form the chain stitch.

For example, this machine is used for sewing shirt side seams and under arms, and for sewing jeans
inseam.
 Feed off the Arm machine

5. Button Attaching Machine

A special machine used only for stitching button in a garment. different sizes of button can be attached in
same the machine by changing the settings.
 Button sewing machine

Purpose: Attach button. Machine stitches button and trim thread automatically.

6. Button Hole Machine

This machine is used for making the button holes on garments. Button holes can be made with different
stitch density. Like in Shirts, Trousers, and Polo Shirts etc.

Button sewing machine

7. Bartack machine
Bartack stitch is made to reinforce the seam and garment component. Like in belt loop joining and at the
bottom of side pocket opening bartaking is done. 

Bartack stitch machine

8. Zigzag sewing machine:

This machine is used for zigzag stitching. Used in bra manufacturing, jacket manufacturing.
 Zig-zag sewing machine

9. Multi-needle chain stitch machine

This machine used for smocking operations and pin-tuck operations.

Multi-needle sewing machine

10. Double needle lock stitch machine 
A double needle lock stitch machine is used to sew two stitch lines at a time on the garment part. This
reduces stitching time where double stitch line is needed to sew.
KNITTING AND BASIC KNITS

One of the earliest methods of fabric construction was through interlacement of two sets of yarns in
the warp and weft directions and was termed as weaving. It formed the subject matter of the
previous lesson. This lesson deals with the process of knitting which apart from producing long
lengths of fabrics can also produce ready-to-use knitted goods like sweaters, hosiery etc. it does this
by intermeshing of loops. The third and final lesson of this unit, viz. Lesson 9 will deal with the
production of non-wovens and braids.

Introduction

Knitting is a technique of constructing textile structures by intermeshing loops of yarn which are
formed with the help of needles. The earliest definite examples of the growth of knitting technology
date back to the 15th century in Western Europe though it has been documented that amongst the
first knitted goods to be made was a hand-knitted pair of socks found in Egypt in a mausoleum. The
first knitting trade guild was started in Paris in 1527 and the first knitting machine was developed in
1589 by an Englishman named Rev. William Lee in which knitted fabrics 1 inch wide with 8 loops
could be knitted.

The rapid growth of the man-made fibre industry had a very positive effect on the growth of
machine-based knitting industry. The knitting characteristics of continuous multifilament yarns are
superior compared to yarns spun from cotton or wool. This is because of the uniformity of their
cross-sectional shape and size, absence of growth of lint and a high work of rupture (i.e. high
toughness). These features allow high speed knitting machines to function without interruption. The
use of textured multifilament yarns (which have properties of stretch and bulk) have resulted in
superior fabtics and broadend the end-application base. Even yarns from man-made staple fibres,
such as acrylics and other blends are easier to knit.

It is interesting to recall that in medieval times socks used to be made from woven materials till
machine knitting created an economically viable fabric bettersuited to take up contours. However, a
number of sizes had to be made. The introduction of crimped nylon yarn has changed the situation in
that only two freefitting sizes— one for adults and another for children— have to be made. The
Indian knitting industry started using synthetics in the 1970s but it has picked up very fast.

The operating areas of the knitting industry can be considered as belonging to the following two
categories: first, in the production of knitted goods in ready-to-use form, e.g., sweater, hosiery,
undergarments, etc. and second, in the production of knitted fabrics, which can be used for making
knitted goods by stitching, etc.

There are two ways in which knitting is done viz., weft knitting and warp knitting. Hand knitting
process is an example of weft knitting, which can of course be done much faster by machine. In this
process, work progresses widthwise or weft-wise in a back and forth cycle.

In each cycle, a new row of loops is formed called a course. The number of loops in each row is
determined by the width of the fabric to be knitted. Each loop of the row gets built-up intermeshing
with the loops of the preceding row. The vertical column of loops is called a wale. In Fig. 8.1 (left),
the horizontal rows form courses out of which one course is highlighted. The figure on the right
shows a number of wales in the form of columns with one wale being highlighted.
Weft knitting

Weft knitted fabrics can be produced in either flat or tubular form. Weft knitted fabric is generally
highly elastic and highly drapeable, two attributes, which make it suitable for a wide range of
apparel applications. Weft knitted fabric is porous and comfortable both for outer garments and
undergarments.

Four types of machines are available for weft knitting, viz.,

i) Circular knitting machine,

ii) Flat bed knitting machine,
iii) Fully fashioned knitting machine,
iv) Hosiery knitting machine.

The circular knitting machine has a cylinder fitted with latch needles (the hooked needle and the
thin strip of sinker separating two adjacent needles are fundamental elements of knitting
machines). Synchronized timing cams fitting inside the cylinder guide the movement of latch
needles in loop formation. The formation of a stitch on a weft knitting machine with a latch
needle is shown in Fig. 8.2.

Stitch formation with a latch needle on a

weft knitting machine, top to bottom:

i) The closed needle after drawing off a

loop.

ii) The needle latch opens as the finished

loop slips over it onto the needle stem.

iii) The thread caught and being drawn by

the descending needle head.

iv) The previously finished loop pushes the

latch closing the needle head while the
new loop is formed.

v) The first loop slips over the needle head

onto the newly formed loop.
Fig. 8.2 Formation of a stitch with a needle
 Warp knitting

In warp knitting, the work progresses length-wise, through the intermeshing of loops in the
direction of wale. In this process, all the loops on the knitting needles in the column remain in
the knitting mode. The main advantage of warp knitted cloth is that, unlike weft knitted fabric, it
is not easy to unravel. However, these fabrics are not as stretchable as the weft knitted fabrics.
An example of warp-knit structure is shown in Fig. 8.3.

Two types of warp-knitting machines are used:

i) Tricot knitting machine, and

ii) Raschel knitting machine

Fig. 8.3 A Warp-knit structure

Basic Knitted Structures

The knitted loops are bound only at the feet to the heads
of the previous stitches. At the place where the legs transform
into feet there are two points of contact with the previous stitch.
These are defined as the binding points. Thus, a stitch has four
binding points, i.e. two binding points at the head and two
binding points at the feet of each stitch. Two binding points,
therefore, build a binding unit. Thus, a stitch has a total of eight
contact points, four binding points and two binding units.

Fig. 8.4 The basic A knitted fabric is technically upright when its courses
structure of stitch run horizontally and its wales run vertically with the heads of the
knitted loops oriented towards the top and the first course at the
bottom of the fabric.

For a stitch, depending on the position of the legs at the

Fig. 8.5 The technical back of a
stitch (top) and the technical front
of a stitch (bottom)
Fig. 8.5 The technical back of a
stitch (top) and the technical front
of a stitch (bottom)
binding points, a technical back and a technical front side is
defined. If the feet of the stitches lie above the binding points,
and accordingly the legs below, then this is the technical back of
the stitch Fig. 8.5 (top) and it called the backstitch, purl stitch,
garter stitch or reverse stitch.
If on the other hand, the bottom half-arcs are below
and the legs above (Fig.8.5 bottom), then this is the
technical front of the stitch. This is called the face4 stitch
or plain stitch, stocking stitch, jersey stitch (USA) and
flat stitch (USA). Intermeshing a yarn loop towards the
technical face side of a fabric produces a face stitch.
Fabric Structures
The weft-knitted fabrics are broadly classified into two groups, namely

i) Single jersey: Produced by using one set of needles. Plain weft-knitted structure
and its derivatives fall in this group, and
ii) Double jersey: Two sets of needles are used to produce this type of structure. Rib,
interlock, purl and their derivates belong to this group.

The structures mentioned above will be briefly described below.

Plain knitted fabrics

If a weft or warp knitted fabric has one side consisting
only of face stitches, and the opposite side consisting of
backstitches, then it is defined as a plain knitted fabric. It is also
very frequently referred to as a single jersey fabric (single
fabric). Plain knitted fabrics are produced by using one set of
needles. As such all the stitches are meshed in one direction.
These fabrics tend to roll at their edges. They roll from their
technical back towards the technical front at the top and lower
edges.
Fig.8.6 Plain knitted fabrics

They also roll from their technical front towards the technical back at their selvedges. The
structure is extensible in both lateral and longitudinal directions, but the lateral extension is twice
that of the longitudinal extension. The yarn loop pulled in the longitudinal direction would extend
by half its length, while when pulled in the lateral direction it could extend by the entire length.
The degree of recovery from stretch depends on the fibres and the construction of the yarn.

Rib knitted fabrics

If on both sides of a relaxed weft or warp knitted fabrics only
face stitches, i.e. the legs, are visible, then it is referred to as a
rib knitted fabric and has been produced by meshing the
stitches in neighboring wales in opposite directions. This is
achieved by knitting with two needle systems, which are
placed opposite to each other. As such these fabrics are also
known as double jersey or double face fabrics. When the
fabric is stretched widthwise, both sides of the fabric show
alternately face and reverse stitches in each course. Once the
fabric is released, it shrinks in its width, thus hiding the Fig.8.7 Rib knitted fabrics
reverse stitches between the face stitches. These fabrics do
not curl at their edges. The simplest rib structure is 1 x 1 rib.
 The longitudinal extensibility of the rib structure equals that of a plain knitted structure.
The geometry of the yarn path influences the elastic behavior of the knitted structures. The change
of direction of the interlooping of the stitches of neighboring wales (cross-over points) results in
the wales of a rib knitted structure closing up. This gives rib structures better elastic properties
widthwise than other basic knitted structures. With rib structures in the lateral direction,
extensions up to 140% can be achieved. Other construction of rib structures include 2 x 2 rib,
where two wales of face stitches alternate with two wales of reverse stitches. As the number of
wales in each rib increases, the elasticity decreases as the number of changeovers from reverse to
front reduces.
Purl knitted fabrics
If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted fabric only reverse
stitches are visible, then this is defined as a purl knitted fabric.
Generally, weft-knitting machines are used to produce these
fabrics. Purl fabrics are produced by meshing the stitches in
neighboring courses in opposite directions by using special latch
needles with two needle hooks. When the fabric is stretched
lengthwise, then the face stitches are visible. The fabric shrinks
more in the direction of wales, and once it is released, it relaxes to
Fig.8.8 Purl knitted fabrics
hide the face stitches between the courses.

The inter-looping of the stitches of neighboring courses in opposite directions

results in the courses of a purl knitted structure closing up. The structure, therefore, has a
large longitudinal extensibility which is largely elastic.

Interlock knitted fabrics

These could be considered as combination of two rib knitted structures. The reverse
stitches of one rib knitted structure are covered by the face stitches of the second rib knitted
structure. On both sides of the fabric, therefore, only face stitches are visible, and it is difficult to
detect the reverse stitches even when the fabric is stretched widthwise.

The geometry of the yarn path influences the elastic

behavior of the knitted fabrics. The change of direction of the
meshing of the stitches in neighboring wales results in the
wales of a rib knitted fabric closing up-giving it better elastic
properties widthwise over other basic knitted structure. The
meshing of the stitches in neighboring courses in opposite
directions results in the courses of a purl knitted fabric closing
up. Thus they could be stretched lengthwise more than the
Fig.8.9 Interlock knitted fabrics
other knitted structures. The combination of two rib knitted
structures in the interlock structure gives very little or no room
at all for the wales or courses to close up, and therefore the
interlock fabrics shows very poor elastic properties in both
directions.The warp-knitted fabrics are generally classified
according to the number of guide bars as well as lapping plan
employed. Warp knitting is generally carried out with one set
of needles, although two sets of needles are found on some
Raschel machines for production of special kinds of fabrics
such as cut plush.
Flat bed Knitting Machine

Circular knitting machine