Impact of Textile Production on Environment

Chikoti Vakya Priya1; Sahithi Natva2 and Prof. Dr. K Ram Mohan3

National Institute of Technology, Hyderabad, Telangana.

Email – 1 chikoti.vakyapriya@nift.ac.in ; 2 n.sahithi@nift.ac.in ; 3 kram.mohan@nift.ac.in

Contact No – 1 9346715789 ; 2 8074021255 ; 3 9441426081

ABSTRACT:

The textile and garment industries cause environmental damage at every stage of

manufacturing, from the cultivation of raw materials to operations like spinning, weaving,

knitting, dyeing and printing etc. through the disposal of completed items. Chemical loading,

high water consumption, high energy consumption, air pollution, solid waste, and smell

creation are all key environmental concerns in the textile industry. Textile manufacturing

zones such as spinning and weaving sections produce loud noise, while bleaching and dyeing

sections release toxic gases into the environment. When producing natural fibres, harmful

chemicals and insecticides are sprayed on the plants to protect them from various insects;

these chemicals and insecticides are also causing health problems in men and animals. Toxic

chemicals, dyes, and oils are dumped into rivers, canals, and the sea by the dyeing and

printing industries. An attempt is made here to study and to give a broad idea and overview of

the textile industry's activities which are affecting the global environment differently and to

give a sustainable solution to the problems.

Keywords - Textile industry, Water pollution, Solid waste, Sustainable solution

 1. Introduction

Textile manufacturing, the process of creating natural and synthetic fibres, is the initial stage

in the worldwide textile supply chain. Approximately 90% of clothing is composed of cotton

or polyester, both of which have major negative effects on the health of workers and

production processes. Polyester, a synthetic fabric, is made from petroleum, whereas cotton

cultivation necessitates a lot of water and insecticides. Fabric dying poses additional risks

since unprocessed dye soil is frequently discharged into local water systems, releasing heavy

metals and other chemicals that can have a negative influence on animal health as well as

neighbouring inhabitants.

1.1. Objectives of the study

The objectives of the study are as follows:

● To understand more about how the textile industry is impacting the environment by

different means in different ways.

● To suggest some sustainable practices which can be done to reduce the effect on the

environment and cause no or less harm.

● To know more about how the recycle and reuse concept can negotiate with the

ideology of making things more sustainable.

1.2 Approach of this study

● This study is completely based on secondary data, it is an explorative/diagnostic

study.

● Discussed about different ways in which the textile industry is polluting the

environment and suggested a few solutions to reduce them.

● Discussed the importance of recycling and reusing the products which can increase
 the sustainability factor in the textile industry.

2. Brief Discussion on the causes/factors affecting the environment

2.1. Air pollution

The garment sector is the second-largest industrial polluter, accounting for 10% of worldwide

carbon emissions. Nitrous oxide and sulphur dioxide are produced in the energy production

phases; volatile organic components (VOCs) are produced in the coating, hardening, drying,

wastewater treatment, and storage of chemical products; and aniline vapours, carrier

Hydrogen sulphide, chlorine, and chlorine dioxide are produced in the dyeing and bleaching

phases. Several potentially fatal untreated pollutants can contaminate the air as textiles

progress through the manufacturing process. Nitrous oxide and sulphur dioxide are released

by factory boilers that heat water. Factory sizing procedures discharge carbon monoxide into

the atmosphere. Chlorine dioxide is released during bleaching, and hydrocarbons and

ammonia are released during fabric printing.

Formaldehyde can be released into the air during fabric dyeing. These hazardous fumes

would remain airborne if not for EPA regulations, and would be dispersed by the wind to

harm neighbouring locations. VOCs (volatile organic compounds) are emitted into the

environment as a result of air pollution in the textile sector. Among the various harmful

emissions are glycolic ether, detergent, combustion gases, reactive components, and volatile

compounds. Air pollution has several negative consequences and is the most harmful to the

ecosystem. It poses a severe danger to our ecosystem, contributing to phenomena such as acid

rain, eutrophication (algal blooms), and smog/mist, as well as affecting the health of plant

and animal life and depleting our ozone layer.

2.2. Water Pollution

Water consumption is a significant aspect of much of this industry, and it is used in a variety

of ways for the purposes of cleansing, bleaching, and dyeing. Textile production takes a lot of

water, as well as land to grow cotton and other fibres. In 2015, the worldwide textile and

garment industry is projected to have used 79 billion cubic litres of water. According to

estimates, 2,700 litres of fresh water are required to create a single cotton t-shirt, which is

enough to supply one person's drinking needs for 2.5 years.

Contamination occurs mostly as a result of wastewater, which is frequently polluted with

chemicals from dyeing and finishing procedures. This sewage, if not cleaned before being

discharged back into bodies of water, can reduce the concentration of oxygen in the water as

well as the flow of light through the water, harming aquatic life and the aquatic environment

in general. Textile dyeing is, in reality, the world's second-largest source of water pollution.

Some textiles produce more trash and pollute the environment than others. Take, for example,

cotton. Cotton conjures up images of a breezy, summery fabric that must be environmentally

friendly. Cotton manufacturing, on the other hand, has a significant environmental impact. To

make the equivalent of a cotton shirt and a pair of pants, 20,000 gallons of water are required.

Millions of litres of this effluent are discharged as a dangerous toxic waste, containing

organic compounds and dyes and finishing salts. Sulphur, naphthol, vats, nitrates, acetic acid,

soaps, chromium compounds, and bulky materials like copper, arsenic, lead, cadmium,

mercury, nickel, and cobalt, as well as other subsidiary chemicals, all arrive at the same time.

Textile manufacturing is thought to be responsible for roughly 20% of worldwide clean water

pollution due to dyeing and finishing processes. Synthetics washing is predicted to emit 0.5

million tonnes of microfibres into the ocean each year.35% of primary microplastics

discharged into the environment come from washing synthetic garments. A single load of

polyester clothing can release 700,000 microplastic fibres into the environment, which could
wind up in the food chain.

Organic matter in textile manufacturing effluent is a major source of concern in water

treatment since it reacts with many disinfectants, particularly chlorine. Chemicals evaporate

in the air we breathe or are absorbed via our skin, causing allergic responses and perhaps

harming kids before they are born.

2.3. Solid Waste pollution

Textile manufacturing generates both hazardous and non-toxic solid waste. All packaging,

fabric remnants, machine components to be replaced, spools, and other non-toxic solid waste

are examples. These are not immediately hazardous to the environment or to humans, and

they may be recycled to prevent further environmental harm. Toxic or hazardous wastes, such

as bleach and sludge, are anti-life and do direct harm to humans and the environment. Fiber

preparation, yarn spinning, trimming/sizing, weaving, knitting, tufting, finishing, and

occasionally breaching provide the majority of solid waste. Except for bleaching, all of these

create pollutants such fibre packing and trash, fabric waste and scrap, which may be

addressed with clever recycling. This fabric waste is recycled and utilised to manufacture

eco-friendly but durable and modern clothing in various nations.

Lye, on the other hand, is a perfect illustration of the numerous toxic toxins found in textile

industry solid waste and how harmful they are to our planet. It is a very hazardous

contaminant that poses a serious threat to the survival of life on our planet. Bleach destroys a

vast range of plants and marine life when poured into the water, as well as being very harmful

to humans when they come into contact with it. Furthermore, the garbage generated ends up

in bodies of water, posing environmental issues.

The textile industry's principal residual residues do not pose a threat. Fabric and yarn waste,
off-spec yarn and fabric, and packaging waste are all examples. Chemical storage barrels,

cardboard reels for keeping textiles, and cones used to clasp strands for dying and weaving

are among the wastes relating to the storage and fabrication of yarns and fabrics. Cutting

room waste causes a large amount of fabric waste, which may frequently be avoided by

enhancing the efficiency of fabric utilisation in cutting and sewing.

There is a significant amount of waste in solid form that is generated and each stage has its

respective amount of waste production. Fig.1 depicts the waste percentage of every stage in

the supply chain.

Fig 1 - Amount of material lost in textile - apparel production chain.

(Source: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666789422000010 )

2.4. Noise pollution

Noise is abundant in textile processes such as spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing,
finishing, and sewing. Toxic chemicals, hazardous fluids, dust, filth, and a variety of other

substances are released in these parts, all of which are damaging to human health either

directly or indirectly. In the workplace, noise levels of 70-100 decibels are usual. One minute

of exposure to a sound intensity more than 100dB has been demonstrated to induce

irreversible hearing loss in studies. Professional hearing loss has also been recorded in a large

number of textile workers, notably weavers (ITUT, 2003). The association between noise

exposure and induced hearing loss was investigated in research including 2,652 textile

workers in Egypt. The study's personnel had neurological and cardiovascular problems,

which were discovered throughout the investigation.

2.5. Freshwater Withdrawal

Freshwater that is taken permanently or temporarily from surface or subsurface water sources

and delivered to a region to be used for various purposes such as agriculture, washing, and so

on is referred to as withdrawals of water. Large amounts of water are consumed in textile

manufacture since the thread must be cleaned on a regular basis. Freshwater is extracted in

this process.

Fibre production, dyeing and finishing, and yarn preparation are the primary steps of textile

manufacture included in this picking process. Because all usable freshwater supplies are

finite, extracting water faster than it can be replenished may result in a loss of ability to fulfil

current and future water demands. The processes such as wet processing consume the highest

amount of water i.e.72%, sanitary consumes 8%, water treatment for specific purposes

consume 8% , and the water consumption percentage of other few activities is also depicted

in the below figure-2, pie chart (1).

 Fig. 2: Pie chart (1) - Water consumption pattern in textile industries.
(Source: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Water-consumption-Pattern-in-Textile-
Industries-Source-Kalra-et-al-2011_fig1_281104599 )

2.6. Polyester production impact

Polyester is a petroleum-based synthetic fibre that is hence a carbon-intensive non-renewable

resource. Petroleum products are employed as both a feedstock (the raw material used to

build the fibre) and a source of energy for the manufacturing process. Polyester is made from

more than 70 million barrels of oil per year. It is not biodegradable and will remain in the

environment after it has degraded. Synthetic clothing is thought to be the leading source of

microplastic pollution in the oceans, with up to 1900 fibres rinsed off one garment every time

it is cleaned. The demand for these synthetic fabrics has been booming in recent years and the

projection is believed to surge even more as shown in Fig 3

 Fig 3 - The figure shows how polyester has overtaken cotton in the 21st century.

(Source: https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmental-
impact/ )

Textile manufacturing is thought to be responsible for roughly 20% of worldwide clean water

pollution due to dyeing and finishing processes. The material used to make a garment has a

significant impact on its carbon footprint. While synthetic fibres such as polyester have a

lower environmental impact than natural fibres such as cotton, they release more greenhouse

gases per kilogramme. The carbon footprint of a polyester shirt is higher than that of a cotton

shirt (5.5 kg vs. 4.3 kg, or 12.1 pounds vs 9.5 pounds). Polyester production for textiles

emitted roughly 706 billion kg (1.5 trillion pounds) of greenhouse gases in 2015, equal to the

yearly emissions of 185 coal-fired power stations, which is picturised in figure-4.

 Fig 4 - Polyester production is carbon intensive

(Source: https://www.wri.org/insights/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics )

The table 1 enlists all the processes and their emissions and pollutants along with the sources.

It covers all the processes involved.

Table 1 - Summary of waste generated during textile production.

(Source: http://researchjournal.co.in/upload/assignments/8_64-66.pdf )

3. Solutions to Environment Pollutions

The textile sector is often regarded as the world's most ecologically damaging. Environmental
issues in the textile industry arise throughout several production processes and result in the

completed product's right side. The next fabric develops a poison that swells in our

environment as a result of manufacturing operations like bleaching and dyeing. Pollution

control throughout the production process is equally as vital as producing a product that is

free of dangerous consequences. It has an impact on both the environment and garment

workers. Environmentally, petroleum-based goods are hazardous. Integrated pollution control

measures are required to safeguard our ecosystem from these impacts. There are, however,

other alternatives available.

3.1. Use of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) for the Safety of Environment

An effluent treatment plant, or ETP, is a sort of wastewater treatment system that is meant to

cleanse industrial wastewater and discharge ecologically safe water free of wastewater's

detrimental effects. The procedures used to handle industrial wastewater as undesirable by-

products are known as industrial wastewater treatment. The treated industrial wastewater (or

effluents) can either be reused or released into a sewer or surface water in the region after

treatment. Wastewater is generated by almost every industry. Minimising production or

reusing wastewater processed in the manufacturing process are two recent trends.

3.2. Use of Chemical Chimney for the Safety of Environment

A chemical chimney is a structure that allows hot combustion gases from a boiler, stove,

stove, or fire to escape into the atmosphere. The chimneys are normally vertical, or as close

to vertical as possible, to ensure that the gases flow smoothly, drawing air into the flame in a

process known as the chimney effect. The term "fireplace" refers to the space within a

fireplace. Buildings, steam trains, and ships are all equipped with chimneys. Because of the

accumulation effect, the height of a chimney affects its capacity to transmit combustion gases

to the outside world. Pollutants can also be dispersed at higher elevations, reducing their
influence on the ecosystem. A sufficiently high chimney can allow partial or total self-

neutralisation of chemicals in the air before they reach ground level in the event of

chemically aggressive manufacturing. Pollutants can be dispersed over a larger region,

reducing concentrations and making compliance with regulatory limitations easier.

3.3. Use of Functional Finishes to Protect Environment

A finish derived from beeswax, aloevera, and vitamin A is a wonderful alternative to harsh

chemicals for softening and finishing the cloth. There are now efforts underway to develop a

fire-retardant coating that does not include toxic components. Plasma technology for fabric

foam finishing is an innovative approach for developing materials with stain, hydrophobic,

and moisture management features. The method involves using foam machines to bend and

dilute the air in a concentrated chemical solution. The procedure guarantees excellent

chemical penetration without the use of a lot of water. This is a way of production that

conserves energy and respects the environment.

Another innovative way for protecting the environment in textile finishing is to employ

enzymes instead of chemical additives to minimise carbon dioxide emissions and, as a result,

energy usage. Cooking is reduced when materials are dyed with a specific enzyme solution.

Furthermore, washing your knitted materials with enzymes, in particular, can aid in the

removal of excess colour. These methods are believed to save 1,000 pounds of carbon

dioxide and 70,000 litres of water every tonne of knitwear.

3.4. Organic Cotton Production to Save the Environment

Fabric cotton is the world's second-most-harmful agricultural crop. Cotton is responsible for

25% of all insecticides used worldwide. Organic cotton was discovered to be the solution, but

it also required a lot of water to grow. Organic cotton (OC) from areas with enough natural
rainfall to irrigate crops should be used whenever possible. The usage of stem fibres like

hemp, flax, and abaca must be encouraged. The "Best" fibre comes from the plant's stem, not

the bloom, and is spun into a thread. Plants may be cultivated without pesticides since insects

do not attack the stems. If organic cotton can be grown without the use of pesticides or

insecticides, pollution in the environment can be reduced.

3.5. More Use of Air Dyeing Technology

With the introduction of "Air Dyeing Technology," a remedy appears to be on the horizon.

It's a dyeing technology that uses wind instead of water to dye textiles, allowing firms to

manufacture clothing with light patterns and colours while not harming the environment or

the water supply. It uses 87 percent less energy and emits 84 percent less greenhouse gas

(GHG). It also decreases product damage (the air dyeing technique damages up to 1% of

items, compared to 10% of traditionally coloured garments). There are no specific washing

guidelines. Air-hued textiles may be washed at any temperature, white or coloured, with or

without bleach. Opposite colours or designs can be dyed on the different sides of the same

piece of cloth.

3.6. Use of Bio Scouring and Bleaching

Despite the fact that chlorine bleach is recognised to be exceedingly hazardous to the

environment and people, it is nonetheless widely used for bleaching fabrics. A bleaching

process based on oxygen (hydrogen peroxide) can also be utilised. Ozone, a novel bleaching

method, is already being used in some companies. Instead of holding the cloth in a water bath

for several hours, this method uses freshwater. In water, ozone decomposes, and oxygen

decomposes in wastewater. Using chlorine-free solutions like hydrogen peroxide to bleach

clothing without releasing hazardous chemicals is an environmentally friendly option. The

cloth turns white as hydrogen peroxide breaks down spontaneously when it comes into touch
with oxygen and water.

Natural silicates and phosphates, combined with cow dung and exposed to the sun's rays, are

used in a popular green bleaching method to whiten natural materials. Low-temperature

bleaching procedures using peroxide activators manage their breakdown while also starting to

generate the needed blank at the same time. Because the process does not require methane,

carbon dioxide emissions are reduced by up to 50%. Various garment and fabric

manufacturing companies employ post-wastewater treatment methods. Reusing dye bath

water may save a lot of water while also preventing the colour of one bath from bleeding onto

another's garment. Other procedures used by textile producers and dyers to make eco-friendly

clothes and textiles include cold dyeing, dry and hot setting, and vegetable tanning.

3.7. Modification of the Faulty Machineries

Existing equipment that has been modified will undoubtedly aid in the reduction of air

pollution and water consumption. Furthermore, the amount of garbage produced will be

reduced. Insulation of hot pipes and tank volume optimization are two examples of scenarios

when branded businesses must get involved. Furthermore, the use of new equipment will

speed up the manufacturing process and eliminate faulty machines. To summarise, defective

machinery may be replaced with modern machinery to safeguard both the environment and

the health of the workers.

4. Recycling and reusing the products

The textile and fashion industries are undergoing significant changes. In order to stay

lucrative, current business models must become more innovative and sustainable in light of

global demographic increase, digitalization, resource constraint, and increasing climate

change. On average, each individual purchases 5 kilogrammes of clothing each year, with up

to 16 kilogrammes purchased in Europe and the United States. The clothing and textile

business generates 1.7 billion tonnes of CO2 each year, making it a substantial contributor to

global climate change. This is partly owing to the fact that petrochemicals account for 63

percent of textile fibres, with cotton (24 percent) accounting for the remaining 37 percent,

which necessitates enormous quantities of water and pesticide use.

4.1. Sustainable business model

The main international fashion retailers' conventional business strategy is built on fast

fashion, which entails mass manufacturing, variety, agility, and affordability. In contrast to

rapid fashion, a new sustainable fashion trend is gaining traction. It supports ecologically

aware business methods with a focus on quality over quantity, encouraging customers to buy

fewer, higher-quality things more frequently so that the garment is viewed as a wise

investment. Sustainable fashion entails environmentally friendly manufacture, fair salaries,

extending the life of items via reuse, and material recycling.

Companies will need to substantially increase their resource efficiency and decrease

environmental impacts by embracing sustainable business practices in order to remain

competitive, lucrative, and successful. To keep materials and products in the loop while

preserving the highest possible value, the whole value chain must be meticulously

modernised. This can be accomplished through a multi-stakeholder, cross-functional

collaboration in which the fashion industry demonstrates proactive leadership and

commitment to improving its sustainability performance in collaboration with the

government, public organisations, industry associations, and independent recycling

verification companies.

4.2. Closed loop recycling

The garment sector should strive to shut the loop between end-of-life and raw materials,

recycling clothing into fresh input materials. Extending the active lifespan of textile goods

through reuse is critical for decreasing textile product environmental effects and should be

prioritised as such. The materials must be recycled back into new textile goods when the

textiles become too old to wear. This sort of circular approach has the potential to

significantly reduce the textile industry's environmental footprint.

Offering an in-store end-of-use clothing collecting programme is an efficient approach for

manufacturers and retailers to reduce waste. Even with the same allocation to end-of-use

processing as now, the current worldwide 20% collection rate could treble to 60% by 2030,

saving the sector more than €4 billion in value. Establishing reverse supply chains and hiring

logistics and processing providers for sorting and processing garments, recycling items back

into the value chain as raw material, e.g. shipping them back to the suppliers' facilities, might

create even more extra value.

4.3. Reusing clothes

A lot of clothes that are manufactured are discarded without using them to their full potential.

There are certain alternatives that can be employed to overcome this. The usage percentage of

discarded textiles is mostly from second-hand i.e, 70% then from stuffing i.e, 9%, fibre

reclaiming like fibre manufactured from PET bottles is 8% and few more also depicted in the

figure-5 pie chart 2. Clothing sharing and renting is spawning a creative sub-industry geared
at prolonging the active lifespan usage of apparel. Yerdle Recommerce, a California Benefit

Corporation that has been in business since 2012, specialises in logistics and technology that

allows companies like Levi's, Patagonia, and Eileen Fisher to purchase back and resell their

used merchandise.

Fig 5. Pie chart (2) - Percentage usage of discarded textiles.

(Source: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3197/textile-recycling )

Filippa K, which has been running a lucrative second-hand store in Stockholm since 2008,

has revolutionised her business strategy by renting out garments via its leasing idea. Another

start-up, Worn Again, tries to supply alternatives to virgin polyester. Its business concept is

based on partnering with leading fashion companies to provide chemical-recycling

technology to overcome key obstacles to textile-to-textile recycling. Blended fibres, dyes, and

other pollutants may be effectively separated from polyester and cellulose with this method.

Walk-in Closet, Kleihd in Zurich, Rent the Runway, Sharewear, and Rentez-Vous are some

of the other start-ups that provide clothing sharing through clothes exchanges or renting.
4.4. End of life applications

Fashion items can be reused without alteration, up-cycled, down-cycled, fully recycled, or

disposed of as garbage in landfills at the end of their life cycle. The primary goal of

sustainable management is to keep items from becoming pure garbage.

Recycling the fibres might help to reduce the environmental effect of raw materials, but the

technique has to be improved because it can now lose up to 75% of its value in only one

cycle. Chemical recycling generates fibres of equivalent quality to virgin materials, although

it necessitates the addition of chemical by-products and is now limited to polyesters and

nylons. For natural materials, mechanical recycling works, although shredding frequently

results in shorter individual fibres, lowering the material's quality and resulting in a lower-

value output. With existing technology, mixed fibres, such as those containing elastane,

cannot be recycled.

4.5. Textile recycling's environmental consequences

Although industry experts believe that textile reuse and recycling are better for the

environment than incineration or landfilling, not all recycled fibres are better for the

environment than all types of virgin fibres. To analyse the material's environmental

sustainability, a life cycle perspective is necessary, which takes into account all relevant

impact categories, including collecting and sorting operations. Various open-loop recycling

allocation techniques can have a big impact on whether a recycled fibre is more sustainable

than a virgin fibre.

5. Findings and Discussion

● The above study has affirmed the impacts of the textile industry on the environment at

every stage of manufacturing, from the cultivation of raw materials to operations like

spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and printing etc. through the disposal of

completed items. Which is being resulted in pollution of water, air, noise and

ecosystem. Textile industry also consumes much freshwater, if this continues there

can be an extinction of water for future generations to come. Producing more

polyester is also affecting the environment by increasing the carbon footprints.

● Considering the impacts, it is making on the environment there are few suggestions

to generate less or no pollution like use of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP), Chemical

Chimney, Functional finishes, producing organic cotton, using air dyeing

technologies, bio sourcing and bleaching and modification of faulty machineries for

the Safety of Environment.

● Pollution avoidance lowers both financial (waste management and clean-up) and

environmental costs (health problems and environmental damage). Pollution

prevention benefits the environment by preserving and protecting natural resources

while also boosting economic growth by allowing industries to produce more

efficiently and reducing the amount of garbage that needs to be handled by families,

businesses, and communities. In this way major benefits can be derived from the

reduction of pollution.

● Strict regulation is necessary also the Government must ensure that the industries are

following the rules or not. The industry produces waste and treatment of this waste is
 regularly necessary. Also, further initiative is necessary, because not only water

pollution, but also air pollution, noise pollution, soil pollution are increasing day by

day.

6. Conclusion

As can be observed from the article, numerous environmental pollutions related with textile

manufacturing processes were reviewed, and viable remedies were proposed. Because of the

absence of proper monitoring and surveillance, as well as the lack of strong laws on

offenders, textile effluents might be a substantial and significant source of environmental

pollution. Energy-efficient process technologies are required, as well as those that create less

waste, utilise fewer resources such as chemicals and water, and are simple to administer. The

increased demand for vast quantities of inexpensive clothes has led to environmental and

social deterioration at every stage in the two decades since the fast fashion business model

has been the norm for prominent fashion labels.

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