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    The Rise of Yuppie Coffees - Roseberry

    Uploaded by

    María De Lourdes Flores Morales
    café

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    8 The Rise of Yuppie Coffees and the Reimagination of Class in the United States William Roseberry Lexus bein a Zahara gourmet oe prion Maan’ Upper We Sie ue Mountain style Mocha styl, ‘ Expres Wane Proce Ccafe Kena AN 2 and’ hell le wats il ou ley, seston, and siggest one of 3 sal select 0 yay and exces his rather modes sletion “The evidence of plenty and wate canbe found inthe sire Krups Semiprofesional Programmatic ($349) or the Olympia Caffree (51,000), z on of coffe ss nor espevally dtingushed. They eschew the trend hocolte amaretto, vail, and the hike, in * few prepackaged cofes in flavors and ores of Favored eyrupe for those stoner wh reer them. But ony ovo a Puerto Ric, and so 0. TFL visit the dl across the street from my apartment, can choose from a much wider vaciet of cotes, 43 i all inlading Jamaican Ble Mountain, Venezuela Maracaibo, Geran Chocolate, Swedish Delighr, Double Vanilla Swedish Delihy, hope, which p abo presen i {struts th wel ot ie nd relations 2 38 well instar termed the zh relition bese ‘sig cote bor whar wat untlated ‘UM cones ano ass HE UTED STATES 3 Swiss Mocha Almond, a Decaf Swise Mocha Almond o name just afew, These ave displayed in burlap bags that ake up much more space than coffee sections wed te-occupy when my only choices were Manoel Hose, Flges, Chock Flo” Nas, EL Pico, and Medaglia dro. And they eequize the asiveance of + clerk to weigh, hag, an rind the colle Net walk down the sere, virally every deli offers a simile vaiery, generaly in rmnibarrels, thowgh sometimes the barrels are diebuted in apparently cas abundance throughout the stre so that I can also select breads seca tas, ‘chocolates, and cheeses as [decide which among the many roasts, atetals, ile, te lars Iwill choos is week. no longer need the outmer shop = though such “hops which peliferatein the 1980s, comin ro thrive, concentated in cfs but also present in suburban wns and shopping malls ro buy what cofle trader call specialty” cottes nor dp I need 0 he gourmet to buy and enjoy them (or beter said need not he goummer ro look, act and fel ike one. can got the corner ‘or the major supermarket, where ven Maxvtell House and ASCP hae oied he speci” end Surely these developments are “good.” Specialy cofes tase better than mass marker coffees. They fer pleasure in many ways: the aroma, ambience and expe ence of the cole shop or ven che deisel Gndeed, parol the experience of place like Zabar'sis the sucesso of sell); the canal conversation withthe shop owner oe diner guest about varetals roasts, preparation methods; he ienticatin with parila places trough consumption ~ Copenhagen or Vienna, Jamaica or he CClebes or the inclusion of coffe purchasing, preparation, and consumption in widening spectrum of foots ~inclading Wines, vers, water, bread, chess, ace snd the ike ~ through which one ean ctv and display “este” and "sri ation.” Moreover. he expansion of speciale coves masks distinct beeak with 3 past characterized by mas production and consomption. The move toward these ote seas not initiated bythe giants that dominate the coffe eae but by stall, ‘exional ossters who developed new sources of spply, new modes and networks of “istribution chat allowed among ahr things, for consumers o uy soe dtctly (rh fm pe ernie cso Ce Ny oles, more chores, ere divert, lee concentration, new capital he eve sae of postmodern, Proper understanding of the proliferation of specaty colees require consider ston of the expeneners ind chovces of the comsnmer im the coe shop an at the dinner cable, but Te abo. eequues consideration of the methods, nenenk7 snd. relations of coffee production, procesung, dienbution, and sale inthe 1980s, as well as placenent of thove methods; networks, and elatons within a wer history Th esay comeenates on that second range of guestiosrom-wat mig be seme hs apg 53 be with ca ge ~ thea ‘aioe best ec of spay coferandg carly pened arse ‘Sp aia a mace, ees Sec iat aad masearin, ascent a ot ‘Easley cots cherie Tp cootetig tout, Pear ei cole parte fr what was RappERE Wich cofee marking snd consumpwon was ot a all tnrelated to what was happening wth many othe food commodities I then urn vo {range of questions that might be orn sociologcal: How has the tur cowed a uit sean specialty coffes been organized? What hasbeen the postion and vole of the giant oeporations shar dominated the colle tad during the period of stanardiaton? ‘Who have been the inovators and “agents” of changes the move toad specialty ovees? How hive they vesanizd themselves? How have they reimaxined. and organized the market? What kinds of hase ad generational napso United States egy have ther used in thee reigiagination of the market? How ave they ine igibed thensalvs, and We Sar and generstinal segments they target th ‘market niche, in relation toa wider wotld of coffee produces? These mote hetorcal and sociological questions rase ses for anthropologkl toterpretation. Can the study of changing mgekeing md consumption raters of singe sommodi 3 paricalacmament (even a mundane commodity produced Tor everyday an routine consumpeion hed some light on a wider range of social and alta sa? We have» wo etanpleof lear alae ody HIRST Stet ant Foc (199), an cxpaon of he rowing chai rence «fsa inthe Eg dc tom he hog Ish coma, kd expy ind neceaniy to nda nthe owt o's mek sas cara Indes of i ecrumprio, and sci tn gown tes England sad the sratisment of cmt owes, panaon onomie, and slave sr the CCntbesm Thea of ster cosieed here ore mode but shee Mn ‘onvcon tha esac ser = = ‘ona sé anbropsey of nue 98 oer SS REMAN ESTE oF To Soy a daa comelngely from ewo rade tourna World Coffee snd Tay (WCET) a0 fle and esos Moboanond “TEFCT These oral ce several question the sof whch s methodlopeal ike eof wade fools in elason wo her pense methods and soc clang chographic oe. The uals ge waco the Peeecupetne Gagnon and sates ofa ange of str in the lee ade rowcs es coasters dbus and res age asain prong el 5 conu inte cole tae ee theta fh wc word in which they ae thr reenter ind actions ae oural conse 3 cn eadly sate od end tied sur Base we ay eond seed anderen ue he ne igual so he atc nthe jonas speak a prtcalat Kd of bic in is eavesdropping or 10 rurm fo the kext ~ pecrng ever the hoele ofthe vend enter ‘Connections and Contrasts ‘We undersand and vale the new speci cffes im relation 0 “the past though im fact more thanone pasts bei imagined. On the one hand specialty cee ste Placed in posive elation tothe pao, say, two decades ago, when most coffe in he Unived Sar he dealt sind, and thet the other hand. 1 a Tota bags es sirematonal sk ses he lce-2 Seneca score. T Sollee le, Fox Hensal a Cte, explain onan cale In he sare et ees Simutart he 5 Sonal ‘horde, Bur ¢ in-an impor which cote Space ‘spel snd eosolidat had developed YUM COMES ano cass our TATE bs ‘he Unie Seats wa sold in cans in supermatkets, the casts weoe light and band, the Tecalfenated colles undenkable, the chokes limited t9 brand and perhaps ° fand, and the tale dominated hy General Foods and Peaster and Gamble. On inet hand, the ne wlles Seem to connect witha mare gine pastor she nation and massbsation the cade, The wenification of pariclae Meads sid vital reals he dey days ofthe rade; the sale of whole Beane in barrels oF buslap bags seals tha pt (or a present in which the "coneaincrzation” in interanonal shipping fuk endeted such bags obsolete} atthe same time that i the lte-20h century gourmet af ie Teeny ‘Eocalscone The semicon hte diced wth eal doy of ol Cole cll, foasters, an brewing apparition He ore eet Tere Cote, explained 10 World Coffee and Tas in 1981 ‘here was certain pei be cole i neration colfemen sound: Andi wa sus the her doy, the balla he charged ad sunk the ones in lide No became “shaper cheap! Alf sudden. conte slong sebny who intereedin guy. He dee ae shat he may have oe mice the peice of canned il he ly net ‘jy All we're ding ray copying what ou fathers and andere i ene tnd yea ago -Spcety cof bas ev the ede that os Tos some wry who was bor aod rated in the eee snes that bine [COT VA] In che same isue of World Coffe amd Tea, the journal enthused: z Aa they did in che early daa of ote chy. [WOOT 1983 Similarly, the journal noes that apscialty coffecsaopeal ro consumers who preter “atu” Teods. Imagining yet another past, the amie Tournal acevounly tacks the lates gonerament reports on the fect of eafeine or mete ne “Rowe Boto wha een ie new a ein? Unapsha a ane e Specialy ster actualy ik? in an important essays Wichal Jimenez (1995) describe the prosesses dou wheal wos tanloinel an snelasTepennre terete oakstet er ‘Sit conseipton are United States at thes Gaonie We TOU rcesey San By Mosher he mat ee iRedahcomane yen me coe wan wily deur ond consumed ‘tape lacs mene anal the cere sare coment snd consolidated eofee wade in the ist three decades of the 20eh century. one that had developed a cenual diecting (though nor controling) auchority and imposed pot sme tertriiisneSvonealcamng wenn] > ) a 126 seandaediaed no lagenez shows that we eannoe enderand transformations inthe c rious of qualey and tae i the creation of a national market fe trade ihout understand a Bead TS of scone snd socal WasToomsaTe THE Ry of Area capil the industaltevolu ofthe Tate 1h cational martes and modes of dsmbatom the fvoluon in sl produson, procesing, and “istbtion that resulted in the creation of The aapetmaskes mong other things indeed the histories ofthe supermarket and of santandion inthe offs trad ad consolidati dare contingent; the revolution in adysrsing: the concentration of America indsty and 0 00. nal thi the particular hatory ‘ofthe standardization of coffee for mass markets isnot united od SGndardiraon,| The penees of standardization and indeed “industalizaton,” of oods in general nthe 1th and 00h ncentaton begun before the depression vas consahidatedover the succeeding decades, Fell after World War dering which we can Tecate two new developments The fe im ‘nternanonal consol insrumen red the cenion of and agreemenrs, beginning ia World War I and ‘sulminating in the cation of she Inemauonal Cofiee Organization an over national Coffee Agreement signed by producing and consuming countries, through lowed for new produces (especialy WORT AMATO CHP the market, cney and paercipatin we +e controlled. With such asteuments, and withthe widening pe shction and consumption of soluble, the end vowatd coe afte owen comon raiaued The second poswar development inv the long-tem decline in consumption esinning TH TRETPEOE-TaroUEh The 1950s, consurpcion was SaeaTally Tae mimo Toccoa From 1962 onecan chav some dckce Take see Percent of he adult population was alulaed to he colle denkers: by 1988 only 80 percent drank si fee (See Table 8-1). Even thowe who drank es ee were drinking less. In 1962, average coer consumption was 3.12 cups pet days by 1980 i had sunsand by 1991 had dropped to 1.75, whch epeevented sight te 1988 low of 1.67 {WCET 1991:19). Wor, in the view of “offemen,” consumption“ oe egining oF the "90s they worried that dey had not been abe to ateet the 20- to 29-yearold generation, who scemed to identdy.cofce dunking wih the seed ways of olds dean 3. tee paren and grandparents. According to their calculations, drank only 1.47 cups per day n 1980, while 30: to S9-eae 06 cups, and those over 60 drank 2.40 | WCerT 1980222), Differentiation and the ldentification of Market Niches The longterm ren coward decline wat exacerbated by the eects ofthe fly 1975 up ns, an cfc purchases declined sional earings ere called wo nvergate the cofee tae, and the 1 OMe onde an official inquiry and publ + report A the beginn Kemet Roma relations frm wl Tam incre Peto po ese Mame eee ‘ous couples 36 ‘nd saggeste biohes The Fst for whom cof hop. Others penis, for wh Table 8.1 Perentaye of US population drinking coos, 1962-88. Redraw and simp ter WC? 19633 yer Percentage rinking tone ae 136 sat 1978 ser 300 566 982 $63 ‘4 53 the eginning of the 1980s, then, many “votfemen” had reason 0 worn Kenneth Roman fe, prideae of Ogisc and Macher, a major advertising and public felts tien which abe qu count, offered them some advice Ian mcriew withthe ediors of World Cofec and Tea he commented Coffee ca wontetl prt Iker, however hat have got sling the onston oe, We mae sl colleen gain, alteaanage Tele cee Rica In a speech tothe Green Clee Assocation of New York, Roman suggested ft tions eouples an individale who could serve as markers of distinc marker niches vo sugested tha voflecmen” should develo different coffees ro appeal to specie dikes Te cle was he Grays dnl mcome coupe a Tet mT ehom collec “way Wea who peter to hy thir coffe ina gourmet Shop. Ores inhaded “the Pitchers.” m their Lae hie and watching thee renmis, for whom price 8 sane gestion “Katen Spering,” 2 single us —__wuswerosomer _ ‘vrkngwomaninker res who des oe wat spend machine thy kc ind for wom steer inna colier should be devapad he ter tee scope: nfo cee aden who doesn dence oe dor kao yer what odo Bute ints igh aero tat qua el Ree toughest and pohsbiy the mone port sk cle market wl le he soe wceT Bene Kenneth Rota sii “clemson sementedat shan 4 na mh anda asne sit eneasas and senesnanal Tats ‘he wpe “Gra and the myer “Joh who pees soit dri. These Peo the markers guy vara om one han and the poroan hosed Cc the coun a oi hom sowie ama dace st sms of proc derion wade tha ad sown on the bs of standardization. Ye the andar self was 3 Beare > inde Lecolcoeessatenest te mectoe ad) side cle foes and ts ty Come ewe a cle andes nt Concentration tht restored the colee market, wesc thatthe eofee rade ws SS aes oom erat eae ‘eau wapan thet ponders window Tagichecin. | + ‘Tae ao itor an Soc tanonRaon TIC rose of anda Gao tens wee Consort many foods ee oo — Cai Sets ae afc would theo te one of many Kod thro which dete srt of cite, the remaking of work and domestic Iie and onganaaton ‘emote specie concems, such asthe rise of averting othe supermarket. Here Jnmaeds wort on coftglachelnnd Stes complomsts Mins¥work onsen 3° [England (1985), YergGfee and sugar Bong to a smal subs of commositis tat

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