HOW TO DRAFT THE BASIC PATTERNS?

1. HOW TO DRAFT THE BASIC PATTERN FOR FRONT BODICE AND BACK BODICE ?

A-B = Full Bodice Length

A-C = 2 ½ to 3 inches, 1 inch for the back

A-D = ¼ bust + 1 inch, ¼ bust for the back

A-E = ½ shoulder point width (SPW)

E-F = 1 inch to the left for front: ½ inch to the right for the back

A-G = 2 ½ to 3 inches

Connect C to G for the neckline using French curve

E-H- 1 ¼ inches downward along line E.

Connect GH. Measure and write it down just below the shoulder width to be transferred to the back
shoulder width later.

H-I = 4 inches diagonally along line F and connect using a ruler

D-J = ¼ bust then connect I-J using French curve for the tentative armhole.

K-L = 1 inch upward, ½ inch for the back. Measure LJ and write it just beside the line for side bodice
length and later it will be transferred to line LJ for the back bodice.

See to it that Line LJ for front should be equal to line LJ at the back bodice.

A-M = apex height for the front, shoulder blades height for the back

M-N = ½ Apex distance for the front; ½ shoulder blades distance for the back

B-O = ½ Apex distance minus ½ inch for the front; ½ shoulder blades distance minus ½ inch for the back

B-O + L-P = ¼ waist

Connect NOP for the dart. To check, NO measurement should be the same with NH.

To check the armhole/armscye:

Measure the armhole/armscye of the sleeve x2 then transfer the measurement to the
armhole/armscye of the front + back bodice pattern.

To check the shoulder width of front and back bodice:

Line GH of the front bodice should jibe with line GH of the back bodice.
To check the side bodice length:

Line LJ of the front bodice is the same with line LJ of the back bodice.

To check the Waist:

Line BN + Line OK = ¼ waist

2. HOW TO DRAFT THE BASIC PATTERN FOR A SLEEVE?

A-B = Sleeve Length

A-C = Cap height (CH) then square the lines

C-D = ½ Upper arm girth (UAG) + 1 inch

B-E = ½ Lower arm girth (LAG) + 1/2, connect D and E

Connect A and D and divideit by 4, mark the points F, G, H

G1 = ½ inch outward from point G.

H1= ¼ inch inward from point H.

Connect points A, G1, F,, H1 using a french curve for the armhole/armscye.

3. HOW TO DRAFT THE BASIC PATTERNS FOR THE FRONT AND BACK SKIRT
A-B = Skirt Length (SkL) minus 1 inch for the waistband

A-C = Hip Depth (HD) – 1 inch for the waistband

A-D, C-E, B-F = ¼ Hips

D-G, E-H, F-I = ¼ Hips

G-H = A-C measurement

C-J = ½ Apex distance (AD)

A-K = ½ Apex distance (AD) – ½ inch. Connect. K and J using a ruler.

K-L = 1 inch for dart, connect L to J using a ruler.

A-K + L-M = ¼ waistline. Connect M to E using a hip curve

H-N = ½ Shoulder blades distance (SBD)

G-O = ½ SBD – ½

O-P = 1 inch for the dart.

G-O + P-Q = ¼ Waistline, connect Q and E with hip curve

AR = ½ inch to 1 inch, connect RM using a hip curve

BS = 1/2 inch. Connect S-F using a hip curve to shape the hemline of the front skirt.