Fabric Science

Assignment

Submitted by –
Rohit Raj
BFT/20/90
Semester - 3
 ECO-FRIENDLY
TEXTILES
The textile industry is considered as the most ecologically harmful
industry in the world. The eco-problems in textile industry occur during
some production processes and are carried forward right to the finished
product. In the production process like bleaching and then dyeing, the
subsequent fabric makes a toxin that swells into our ecosystem. During
the production process, controlling pollution is as vital as making a
product free from the toxic effect. The utilization of rayon for clothing
has added to the fast depleting forests. Petroleum-based products are
harmful to the environment. In order to safeguard our environment
from these effects, an integrated pollution control approach is needed.
Luckily there is an availability of more substitutes.
EXAMPLES OF ECO FRINDLY FIBERS

Hemp Wool Organic cotton

Soy Silk Bamboo

CULTIVATION
• Fibre cultivation requires large
amount of pesticides, fertilizers
and water. Pesticides are
biologically active chemical
compounds, which curtail the
growth of organism like bacteria,
fungus, algae, insects, etc.

• Averting the augmentations of

these unwanted organisms
improve the crop yield make the
quality of fibre better. Water if
utilized in too much quantity in
irrigation of cotton, can increase
the salinity of land and thereby
decrease its fertility.

• Natural fibre, such as cotton

fibre is free of impurities but only
when no harmful pesticides or
insecticides are used in its
cultivation. If so, then it is
environmentally friendly.
 SPINNIG
DEPARTMENT
 Relative Humidity in
Spinning Mill
The relative humidity is the ratio of the amount
of water vapor present in a unit volume of air to
the amount of water vapor required to saturate
a unit volume of air under the same
temperature and pressure. This is expressed
as a percentage. Humidity is absolute terms is
the amount of water vapor present in a given
of air. In yarn spinning mill must has to
maintain relative humidity. In case of low
relative humidity fly dust produced then
production will decrease. If relative humidity
becomes high then production will also
decrease. So, maintaining optimum relative
humidity is one of the major tasks for a
successful spinner.
PRE TREATMENT
PROCESS
DESIZING
 1. Alpha - Amylase
• It is an eco-friendly material, are applied
for desizing of cotton fabric. It is used for
removing starch based size.

• Unlike acid and oxidative desizing,

biodegradation of sizes does not damage
fabric and emit greenhouse gases (CO2),
respectively.

• Being catalysts, they retain their activity after reaction and need to be reused.
Immobilization allows the recovery of enzymes to use them as realistic
biocatalyst.

• The sonicated α-amylase possesses higher desizing efficiency because there

are higher hydrophobic interactions between sonicated α-amylase protein and
starch-sized cotton and thus intensifies its catalytic activity
SCOURING
 1. Pectinase Enzyme
• Pectinase enzymes remove the non
cellulosic impurities present in the fabric. It
enhances the absorbency of the fabric
without appreciable strength loss and also
would help in the proper dyeing and
finishing of the fabric.

• They are used to specifically remove pectin lattice, the biological “glue”,
in the surface of the fiber.

•The efficiency of the bio-scoured cotton fabric when compared with

that of the conventionally scoured fabric. The described enzymatic
procedure is accompanied by a significant lower demand of energy,
water, chemicals, time and therefore costs. So it has advantages as
well in terms of ecology as in economy.
 2. Lipase

• Lipase from B. sonorensis is capable of

removing substantial amount of wax from the
cotton surface and hydrolyzing it into fatty
acids.

• Lipase-scoured fabric showed smooth surface indicating no damage to

the fabric whereas the surface of the alkaline-scoured fabric appeared
rough causing damage to the fabric.

• Evaluation of fabric properties such as wettability, whiteness, dyeing

behavior, tensile strength and bending rigidity revealed that the bioscouring
using lipase from B. sonorensis is as effective as conventional alkaline
treatment.
 3. Combination of
Lipase & Pectinase

• Enzymatic scouring of linen fabric is

done using the mixture of pectinase
enzyme and lipase enzyme.

• The enzymatically scoured linen fabric shows lower loss in

weight than the conventionally scoured one but on the other hand,
its drop penetration time is always found to be too high.

• Gentle enzymatic procedure does significant lower fiber damage

occurs resulting in better mechanical properties, such as a higher
degree of polymerization and an increased tensile strength.
DEGUMMING
 1. Protease Enzyme
• Conventional soap soda boiling
method of degumming silk has many
disadvantages coupled with the
convenience of time

• The enzymatic degumming processes have been attempted earlier and are
gaining importance due to less degradation of silk, ease of process control,
better hand properties of silk besides being environmental friendly process.

• The degummed silk yarn can be analyzed for properties related to strength and
weight loss. The enzymatic degummed silk yarn shows better control over the
conventional process based on the dosage of enzyme and degumming loss

• Degumming is carried out at yarn stage, if yarn dyeing is to be done. If it is

fabric dyeing then sericin in filament yarn work as size in weaving and then
degumming is done at fabric stage
 BLEACHING
WASTE OF H2O2
 1. Catalse
• Bleaching of cellulosic material with enzymes
not possible. Enzyme can only be used for
quicker decomposition of residual H2O2 on
fabric. After H2O2 bleaching, if residual peroxide
is not removed and dyeing is done in same bath, it
will result in reduction in color yield (drop in
depth of shade).

• Enzyme are used to decompose residual H2O2 for example Catalase.

• The various advantages of use of Catalase are:

1. No adverse effect on dye.

2. No need of heating.
3. No rinsing of peroxide bath.
4. Saving of water/time.
5. Saving of energy.
6. Reduced process time.
ECO-FRIENDLY
DYEING
1. HERBAL/ NATURAL DYES
• Textile dyeing and finishing in a green way
can be achieved by using chemical-free
dyes and using kin to environment
processes.

• Using natural dyes made from plants,

marine invertebrates (like sea urchins
and starfish), algae, bacteria, and fungi.

•This has also led to the development of

Herbal dyes, that are not just bio-degradable
but also posses' medicinal properties.

•Plants, fruits, barks, stems, minerals, and

herbs are used to make fabrics with anti-
bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-
allergic fabrics.

• The problem with them is the color retaining.

Sources of Natural dyes:

1) Specialized plants and animal sources Many plants and some

animals’ are potentially rich in natural dye content. Various
parts of plants like roots, stems, bark, leaves, fruits and seed
contains coloring matter. The depth and shade will vary
according to time of year.

2) 2) By products (lac dye) The lac industry give lac dye as a

byproduct which is extracted from effluent. (Lac: It is by
product of insect coccus lacca)

3) 3) Attempt has also been made to synthesize natural dye having

similar structure.

4) 4) Genetic modification of certain fungi have produced

Anthraquinone dye.
 2. Super Critical CO2 dyeing
Supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing is an anhydrous dyeing and this
process comprises the usage of less energy and chemicals when
compared to conventional water dyeing processes leading to a potential
of up to 50% lower operation costs.

•scCO2 is well suited as an environmentally

friendly solvent/medium for dyeing textiles in the
form of yarn, thread or fabric. We have
developed an efficient process for polyester
dyeing. scCO2 is ideally suited for dyeing
polyester because many of the disperse dyes
used for dyeing polyester are soluble in scCO2.

•Solubility can be controlled by pressure.

• It is nonlinear.
• Increase in temperature above critical point
reduces density and hence increases solubility.
• Supercritical CO2 also acts like a carrier.
• At 300 bar Tg (Glass transition temperature) of
polyester is reduced by 300C
3. ULTRASONIC ASSISTED WET
PROCESSING:

Ultrasonically assisted dyeing of fibers and fabrics improves the

penetration of the dye into the fiber pores and increases colour strength
and colour fastness significantly. Ultrasonic dyeing is a rapid process,
which can be run under mild conditions and low temperatures. The fiber
structure of materials such as fabrics and textiles is not damaged by
sonication and remains intact. Ultrasonication intensifies the dyeing
treatment achieving better color results and a fast process.
4. ECO FRIENDLY DIRECT DYEING
A direct dye is a class of dye that can be applied directly to
cotton or other cellulosic fabrics such as rayon, silk, and wool.
Direct dyes are applied in a neutral or alkaline bath of hot water.
They do not require mordant or fixatives for fastness; instead,
they attach with hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces

1. Do not use banned Azo dyes which liberate harmful amines.

2. The other principle is to use optimized solubilizing group in
chromophore to give balance between solubility and substantivity.
3. Replace exhaust method by padding method.
4. Recycling of dye bath. 5. Recovery of salt by reverse osmosis
ECO-FRIENDLY
PRINTING
 1.DIGITAL FABRIC PRINTING
• Digital Print includes eco-friendly printing
,with water-based pigment inks.

• Digital printing is more eco-friendly than the

traditional screen-printing methods as we only use
the exact amount of ink needed to print your
design. So there’s no wastage.

• Printing digitally offers a greener advantage compared to screen printing which has
more chemical waste.
• Digital textile printing eliminates the substantial amount of water and electricity
required for screen preparation, printing and clean-ups.

• Digital Print Technologies and CAD /CAM software offer a sustainable solution to
the negative environmental impact of traditional textile manufacturing practices.
2. VEGETABLE OIL BASED INK.
• It is one of the greenest types of printing processes which consist of
renewable resources like linseed, cottonseed, China wood oil and Tung.
Since these are natural elements, the waste inks can be easily recycled and
reformed into new inks.

• Printing ink from vegetable oils is a good replacement for the mineral-based
ink used currently.

• It reduces the organic compounds released during printing

• It dries faster and gives a good image quality. It also helps conserve non-
renewable petroleum oils.

• Mineral oil-based ink uses non-renewable petroleum oils, which

make up for 30 per cent of the offset printing inks in the graphic
art industry.
ECO-FRIENDLY
FINISHING
 1. PLASMA TREATMENT
• Plasma is defined as a partially or wholly
ionized gas with an equal number of positively
and negatively charged particles. It is often
called the “fourth state of matter”.

• This treatment has been employed as an eco-friendly technique to improve efficacy of

textile chemical processes, it is the most attractive alternative as being a clean, simple
and multi-functional process

Advantages of plasma technique:

• It is an eco-friendly technique as it consumes low energy and chemicals and there is no
problem with the disposal of waste.
• Optimization of the surface properties without altering the bulk characteristics.
• The time required for the treatment is short.
• No chemical products and gases are produced and it is considered as operator friendly
technique.
• Applicable to all substrates suitable for vacuum processes.
• The process is performed in a dry, closed system and excels in high reliability and
safety.
• The surface properties of the polymers which are unable to modify with wet chemicals
can also be changed by using plasma technique
 2. NANO TECHNOLOGY
•Nanotechnology is the term given to
those areas of science and
engineering where phenomena that
take place at dimensions in the
nanometer scale are utilized in the
design, characterization, production
and application of materials, structures,
devices and systems.

• The most widely used example of textile finishes by nanotechnology is of anti-

microbial finishing. Though the use of textile finishing agents have been known
from decades, it is only in the recent years that attempts have been made on
finishing of textiles with nano-particles as antibacterial compounds. Due to
increase in awareness about health and hygiene, people increasingly want their
clothing to be hygienically fresh.

• Many of the anti-microbial agents available in the market are synthetic

based and may not be environmentally friendly. Due to this, many of the
consumers are opting for herbal anti-microbial finishes for textiles.
 3. BIO POLISHING
•Bio polishing is a process of using
cellulases for surface modification
of cellulosic fabrics to reduce the
hairiness and increase the resistance to
pilling.

•It improves appearance of cotton and other natural fibres by enzymatic

treatment.
• The main advantage is prevention of pilling.

Mechanism:
Enzyme cellulase hydrolyze the micro fibrils (hairs or pills) protruding from the
surface of yarn as they are most susceptible to enzymatic attacks.

Effects:
• Fabric has low pilling tendency.
• Softer and smoother feel.
• Superior brightness.
• Unlike conventional softeners, it imparts wash proof and non greasy softening
effect.
• Fabric looks new after repeated washing.
 4. MICRO ENCAPSULATION

•Microencapsulation is one of the novel methods of getting functional

finishes on textiles. Microencapsulation is a micro-packaging technique
involving deposition of thin polymeric coating on small particles of solid or
liquid.

•This process is more advantageous to conventional process in terms of

economy, energy saving, eco-friendliness and controlled release of
substances. The anti-bacterial agents reside in colloidal suspension with the
amorphous zone of the polymeric binder so that a reservoir of agent is
present in solid/ solution within the polymer matrix.
 AEROSOL
TECHNOLOGY
 Aerosol Technology
Aim of this study was to compare the traditional aqueous
textile processing with water-air mixture as the processing
medium using aerosol technology. The concept originally
developed by Jeanologia for denim processing, has been
adapted with appropriate equipment modifications and
parameter optimization for the pretreatment, dyeing and
finishing of socks at commercial scale at Interloop Industries
Pakistan, which is one of the largest socks manufactures in
the world. In the new process, a blend of pressurized air with
minimal amount of water is used to transfer the dyes and
chemicals to the garment surface for subsequent absorption.
The results show 75% savings in water consumption, 47%
savings in energy, 80% savings in salt and up to 50%
savings in other chemicals used in socks processing at
commercial scale. The new process has huge potential to
reshape the garment processing industry by minimizing its
water, chemical and carbon foot print.
APPROACHES TO ECO-FRIENDLY
PRACTICES
Any organized approach to move production towards
clean production should have the following steps:

Prevent: To 'prevent' is to give up a process or

product in favor of noticeably improving the
environmental situation.

Decrease: This can be attained by reducing the

pollutant load, exhaustion and fixation of dyes close
to 100 per cent and responding to water and energy
requirement.
Re-utilise: Re-utilisation of the dye bath is a vital
deliberation under the pressure of dwindling
resources. This has now turned into pragmatism
because of addition of new auxiliaries, modern filter
technology and spectrophotometers that calculate the
substance of the dye in the dye bath accurately.

Recycle: This recycling of natural fibres is

achievable, but it has a limitation of application
because of natural degradation. Synthetic fibres can
be recycled by melting down and regranulating with or
without applying fresh granules. This perhaps is most
acceptable to 'green' organizations, but is limited due
to lack of uses for the material recycled.
 REFERENCES
• Article by Biplap Das
https://www.downtoearth.org.in/news/ecofriendly-printing-ink-from-vegetable-oil-3990

• Research Paper by Jamshed A Khan

https://textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/articles/textile-articles/eco-friendly-textile-finishes-
finishes-for-well-being/

• Hielscher Ultrasound Technology

https://www.hielscher.com/improved-textile-fiber-dyeing-with-ultrasonics.htm

• Article BY Noman Ul Haq https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00405000.2011.570045

• National Libraray of Medicine

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23768589/

• https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0144861708002051

• Blog on Fibre2 Fashion

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7250/eco-textile-dyeing-and-finishing

• Blog by Mehdi Hassan

https://www.textilecalculations.com/how-to-maintain-relative-humidity-in-yarn-spinning-mill/

•Fibre to Fashion
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/76/eco-friendly-textiles

• https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/76/eco-friendly-textiles