Study On Comparative

TEXTILE
& REVIEW
LEATHER
Textile & Leather Review
2020
ISSN: 2623-6257 (Print) 2623-6281 (Online) Journal homepage: www.textile-leather.com Journal doi: 10.31881/TLR
Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic

Woven Fabrics Produced in Air-Jet Loom
and Determining Structure for Optimum
Mechanical Properties and Production
Md. Nurunnabi, Jubayer Ibn Haris, Fairooz Raisa Mridula
How to cite: Nurunnabi M, Haris JI, Mridula FR. Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic Woven
Fabrics Produced in Air-Jet Loom and Determining Structure for Optimum Mechanical Properties
and Production. Textile & Leather Review. 2020. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2020.06
How to link: https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2020.06
Published: 1 December 2020
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NURUNNABI M, et al. Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic Woven Fabrics … TLR 3 (4) 2020 226-239.
Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic Woven Fabrics

Produced in Air-Jet Loom and Determining Structure for
Optimum Mechanical Properties and Production
Md. NURUNNABI*, Jubayer Ibn HARIS, Fairooz Raisa MRIDULA
Department of Textile Engineering, National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER), Nayarhat, Savar,
Dhaka 1350, Bangladesh
*nurunnabi@niter.edu.bd
Original scientific article

UDC 677.074:677.014
DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2020.06
Received 18 Apr 2020; Accepted 12 Oct 2020; Published Online 31 October 2020; Published 1 Dec 2020
ABSTRACT
This analysis was directed at dissecting the impact of the structure of the fabric on different properties of
the fabric, for example tear strength, tensile strength, shrinkage, elongation, skewness, and so on. The work
demonstrated how various structures of the fabric influence these properties. Fabrics with a fundamental woven
structure, namely plain, twill, satin and a couple of their subsidiaries, were produced to explore the influence of
the structure on different properties of the fabric. The examination built up an approach to gauge the mechanical
conduct of the fabric dependent on its structure. The exploration accentuated the structure and detail of the
fabric to decide the underlying driver of the change in the mechanical conduct. The properties of the fabric,
such as tear strength, tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage and skewness, were extraordinarily affected by
the structure of the fabric. It likewise demonstrated to having more noteworthy mechanical properties for
firmly interwoven structures, such as plain and twill. The analysis led to the conclusion that the plain structure
has the best mechanical properties among different structures.
KEYWORDS
Air-jet loom, Woven fabric, Mechanical properties, Tear strength, Tensile strength, Shrinkage
INTRODUCTION
Woven fabric is any textile formed by the interlacement of many warp and weft yarns at right angles to
one another. The most versatile structure of all fabrics is the woven fabric which is created by the inter-
lacement of two sets of yarn, where one set is called the warp yarn, which is longitudinal, and the other is
weft yarn, which is transverse. It is the most advanced and refined fabric available, with various designs.
It is conceivable to create different designs, like plain, twill, satin, etc. by varying the interlacement. These
basic structures have numerous derivatives and designs. These variations of the designs have some effect
on the mechanical properties of woven fabrics [1]. Virtually all types of textile fibres and threads can be
used to make woven fabric. In antiquated occasions, woven fabrics were produced utilizing handlooms
and the activity was completely manual. Nowadays there are numerous sorts of modern looms developed
226 www.textile-leather.com
which are completely programmed and able to create the most extreme measure of fabric in the briefest
conceivable time.
Air-jet is a cutting-edge loom which is boundlessly used to produce woven fabrics throughout the whole
textile industry. It is a very popular loom due to its higher efficiency, lower power consumption and main-
tenance cost than other looms present in the market [2]. In a typical air-jet loom the picking process into
the warp shed is done by compressed air, rather than any projectile or shuttle. A special type of reed called
“profile reed” [3] is used to help pick the insertion. Upon picking the insertion, the weft yarn goes through
the main air nozzle which provides the initial acceleration of the weft yarn [4], and the profiled reed guides
the weft yarn onto the other side of the loom for a successful pick insertion. From the focal air tank an
adequate amount of air pressure is delivered, which changes into kinetic energy in the nozzle and conveys
the weft yarn in the diversely formed air channels [5].
The purpose of this study is to find an optimum structure of the woven fabric produced in the air-jet loom.
There are many structures of the woven fabric available now; however, there hasn’t been much concern
about the suitability of the structure of the fabric produced in the air-jet loom [6]. This study shows the
mechanical properties of different fabrics according to their structure and analyses the change in those
properties. The findings of this study will be of benefit to the woven fabric industries in regard to the effi-
cient production of high-quality fabrics.
Woven fabric is the most sophisticated and aristocratic fabric, available in numerous variations in design.
Due to the variation in the interlacement, different structures can be produced, such as plain, twill, satin, etc.
Results from a research paper “Effect of Fabric Structure on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics”
[7] show that these variations of structural designs tend to have some effect on the mechanical properties
of the woven fabric. For textile fabric, it is described as a result of the material’s resistance to the activity of
external forces causing the change of shape [8]. The test results from a research journal from Mehdi Kamali
Dolatabadi “Anisotropy in tensile properties of plain weave fabric–Part I: The meso-scale model” shows
that in design engineering, mechanical properties play a vital role in resisting the permanent deformation
under applied stress and subsequent use [9]. From all of these journals the following results were concluded:
a) The strength of a plain-weave fabric is higher than that of a twill-weave fabric.
b) Warp way plain is stronger than twill and, also, weft way plain is stronger than weft way twill.
c) Warp-wise tensile strength of the plain weave is higher than the twill weave. Similarly, weft-wise tensile
strength of the plain weave is also higher than that of the twill weave [8].
d) The value of COF (Crossing Over Factor) is higher in the plain than in the twill and satin. Oppositely, the
value of FYF (Floating Yarn Factor) is higher in the satin than in the twill and plain.
e) Tearing strength is higher in the 2/2 twill than in the 3/1 twill due to the double yarn being inserted as
weft.
f) The greater the difference in warp and weft yarn density, the greater the difference in tearing resistance
[10].
www.textile-leather.com 227
MATERIALS AND METHODS

Raw materials
The woven fabrics produced in the air-jet loom are as follows:
Table 1. Air-jet loom fabric sample
Construction
No. Sample Name
((EPI × PPI)/ (warp count × weft count))
1. Sample 1 (Dobby) 128×60/30×16+70D
2. Sample 2 (Dobby) 154×82/40×20+40D
3. Sample 3 (Canvas) 124×60/20+20D×14
4. Sample 4 (Oxford Canvas) 90×34/10+10D×6
5. Sample 5 (Cotton Sheeting) 60×60/20×20
6. Sample 6 (Herringbone) 165×85/20×10+70D
7. Sample 7 (2/2 S Twill) 206×98/40×30+40D
8. Sample 8 (2/1 S Twill) 168×68/30×30+40D
9. Sample 9 (Herringbone) 130×54/30×30+40D
10. Sample 10 (Satin) 188×74/30×20+40D
Dobby
Dobby fabric is a derivative of the plain fabric. It differs from other plain derivatives by construction (which
is generally similar to (128×60/30×16+70D)). This fabric is generally small, with frequently repeated woven-
in designs and textured.
Canvas
Canvas is also a derivative of the plain-woven fabric. It is extremely durable and used for making marquees,
sails, tents, shelters, backpacks and canvasses as a support for oil painting etc.
Oxford Canvas
Oxford canvas is another derivative of the plain-woven fabric. It is suitable for cushion covers, curtains, and
other more rugged fabric needs.
Cotton Sheeting
Cotton sheeting is a lightweight, plain fabric used in costume making, stagecraft, garments manufacturing,
home décor etc.
Herringbone
This is a V-shaped twill weaving pattern. It is called like that because it looks similar to the skeleton of the
herringbone fish.
2/2 S Twill
This is another twill pattern with the repeat of 2 warp up and 2 warp down. The structure runs in the shape
of the letter ‘S’. Twill is a diagonal rib pattern.
2/1 S Twill
This is another twill pattern with the repeat of 2 warp up and 1 warp down. The structure runs in the shape
of the letter ‘S’.
NURUNNBI M, et al. Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic Woven Fabrics … TLR 0 (0) 2020 00-00.
Satin
Satin is a warp face weave and it has a rather dull texture on the back. The number of floats in satin is also
1) Tear Strength (ISO 139371)
high.
This test method is known as the ballistic pendulum (Elmendorf) method for the
Machine determination of tear force of textile fabrics. The specimen is fastened in the clams and the
tear is(main
Shower type/multi-jet started by cutting
nozzle a slit
and relay in the air-jet
nozzles) specimen
loombetween the clamps. The pendulum is then
released
Brand name: Picanol and the specimen is torn completely as the moving jaw moves from the fixed one.
OptiMax
The tear force is measured.
Testing methods
2) Tensile Strength (ISO 139341)
The research was This
conducted by testing
test method the above-mentioned
specifies specimen
a procedure for the according
determination ofto the
the followingforce
maximum procedure:
of textile
1) Tear Strength (ISO 139371)
fabrics known as the grab test. A fabric test specimen, gripped in its centre part by jaws of
This test method is known as the ballistic pendulum (Elmendorf) method for the determination of tear
specified dimensions, is extended at a constant rate until it ruptures. The maximum force is
force of textile fabrics. The specimen is fastened in the clams and the tear is started by cutting a slit in
the specimenrecorded.
between the clamps. The pendulum is then released and the specimen is torn completely
as the moving jaw moves
3) Skewness (ISOfrom the fixed one. The tear force is measured.
163222)
2) Tensile Strength (ISO 139341)
Skewness is the displacement of filling yarns from an imaginary line perpendicular to the
This test method specifies a procedure for the determination of the maximum force of textile fabrics
fabric in an angular form. It disturbs the grain line of the garment patterns and causes
known as the grab test. A fabric test specimen, gripped in its centre part by jaws of specified dimensions,
is extended atdiscomfort
a constantand rateimproper functioning
until it ruptures. Theofmaximum
the final garment. To measure the skewness, a steel
force is recorded.
3) Skewness (ISOtape 163222)
may be used. The straight edge of the steel tape is placed across the fabric width to
Skewness is the displacement
measure of filling
the distance yarnsthe
between from
twoanpoints
imaginary
whereline perpendicular
a selected to the
weft yarn fabric of
or course in fabric
an
angular form. It disturbs the grain line of the garment patterns and causes discomfort and improper
meets the two edges or selvedges. Then the straight line of distortion of the marked filling
functioning of the final garment. To measure the skewness, a steel tape may be used. The straight edge
fromisa placed
of the steel tape line perpendicular to the width
across the fabric selvedge
to is measured.
measure the distance between the two points
AB
Skew (%) = 100 × BC , (1)
(1)
where a selected weft yarn or course of fabric meets the two edges or selvedges. Then the straight line
where AB is the fabric width perpendicular to the selvedge; and BC is the skew depth.
of distortion of the marked filling from a line perpendicular to the selvedge is measured.
where AB4)is theShrinkage Measurement
fabric width (AATCC
perpendicular to 135)
the selvedge; and BC is the skew depth.
4) Shrinkage Measurement
Shrinkage is(AATCC 135)problem in fabric production where fabric becomes smaller, usually
a common
Shrinkage is aafter
common problem
the process in fabric production
of laundering. where
This problem is afabric
resultbecomes smaller,
of high tension usually
during theafter the
production
process of laundering. This problem is a result of high tension during the production of fabric generally.
of fabric generally. Normally, shrinkage is measured in percentages (%) and the standard
acceptable shrinkage is less than 5%, but it can be changed at the request of the buyer.
Length before washing − Length after washing
Fabric shrinkage (%) = × 100
Length before washing
4) Shrinkage Measurement (AATCC 135)
Shrinkage is a common problem in fabric production where fabric becomes smaller, usually
NURUNNABI
afterM,
theetprocess
al. Studyof
onlaundering.
ComparativeThis
Analysis of Basic
problem is a Woven Fabrics
result of high …tension
TLR 3 (4) 2020 the
during 226-239.
production
of fabric generally. Normally, shrinkage is measured in percentages (%) and the standard
Normally, shrinkage
acceptable is measured
shrinkage in percentages
is less than 5%, but it can(%)
beand the standard
changed acceptable
at the request of theshrinkage
buyer. is less than
5%, but it can be changed at the request of the buyer.
Average breaking strength and elongation
Length or the increase
before washing − Lengthin the fabric
after length under force to
washing
Fabric
NURUNNABI shrinkage (%) = 0 (0) × 100
the point M,
of et al. Study
rupture on Comparative
expressed Analysis
in percentages
Length of Basic
(%) isWoven
before the Fabrics … TLR
breaking
washing strength 2020
and00-00.
elongation
percentage of the fabric. Greater breaking strength and the elongation of fabric means
5) Elongation Measurement (ASTM D 5034)
5) Elongation Measurement
betterAverage
fabric quality as(ASTM
breaking it canDbear
strength 5034)
andmore
elongation
stretchorand
thestill
increase in the
not tear. fabric
This length under
is basically force to
the ratio
Average breaking strength and elongation or the increase in the fabric length under force to the point of
rupturebetweenthelength
expressedpoint of breaking
at rupture expressed
in percentages point
(%) is the in percentages
andbreaking
length ofstrength (%)
the fabric is
and the breaking
when produced
elongation strength
from theand
percentage elongation
ofloom.
the fabric.
Greater breaking strength
percentage ofand
thethe elongation
fabric. Greater ofbreaking
fabric means better fabric quality as it can bear more
×strength
100 , and the elongation of fabric(2) means
E−L
Breaking elongation (%) =
L
stretch and still notfabric
better tear. This is basically
quality as it canthe ratio
bear morebetween
stretchlength at breaking
and still not tear. point
This isand lengththe
basically of the
ratio
fabric when produced from the loom.
between length at breaking point and length of the fabric when produced from the loom.
where E is the extended length of the specimen after applying force; and L is the initial length
E−L
Breaking elongation (%) = × 100 , (2)
(2)
of the specimen. L
6) where E is the extended length of the specimen after applying force; and L is the initial length of the
RESULTS AND where E is the extended length of the specimen after applying force; and L is the initial length
DISCUSSION
specimen.
of the specimen.
The above-mentioned tests were done on fabric specimens and the results are discussed as follows:
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Plain-weave structure: the samples 1-5, which represent the plain-weave structure, were taken and
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The above-mentioned
tested tests were
in order to compare theirdone on fabric
mechanical specimensThe
properties. andresults
the results are discussed
are shown below. as follows:
Plain-weave structure: the samples
The above-mentioned tests 1-5,
werewhich
donerepresent the plain-weave
on fabric specimens structure,
and the were
results are taken and
discussed tested
as follows:
Tear strength: the tear strength of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are
in order Plain-weave
to compare their mechanical
structure: properties.
the samples The results
1-5, which are shown
represent below. structure, were taken and
the plain-weave
shown below.
Tear strength: the tear strength of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are shown below.
tested in order to compare their mechanical properties. The results are shown below.
Tear strength: the tear strength of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are
Fabric structure vs tear strength
shown below. of plain structures
50
43
Warp Weft
40 Fabric structure vs tear strength
of plain structures
Tear strength, N
50
30 24,5 32 43 23 Warp Weft
19,57
40 18,6
20
Tear strength, N
17,8 20
30 24,5 16,45
10 32 23
11 19,57
18,6
20
0 20
Sample 1 Dobby 17,8
Sample 2 Dobby Sample 3 Canvas Sample 4 Oxford Sample 5 Cotton
10 Canvas Sheeting 16,45
11
Fabric Structure
0
Sample 1 Dobby Sample 2 Dobby Sample 3 Canvas Sample 4 Oxford Sample 5 Cotton
Figure
Figure1.1.Tear
Tearstrength
strength of various plain
of various plainfabric
fabricstructures
structures
Canvas Sheeting
Fabric Structure
Figure 1 shows
Figure 1 showsthat Sample
that 3, canvas
Sample fabric,
3, canvas has the
fabric, hashighest amount
the highest of tearofstrength
amount both inboth
tear strength warpinand weft
warp
direction. The other plain-weave structures show
Figure 1. Tear much
strength lesserplain
of various tearfabric
strength. This is because of the warp
structures
and weft direction. The other plain-weave structures show much lesser tear strength. This is because
and weft yarn density of the fabric. This test results are parallel to the findings of Krook and Fox [11]. They
of the Figure
warp
discovered and
that1theweft
tearyarn
shows density
strength
that Sample of canvas
of 3,
thethe fabric.
fabric This
increases
fabric, test
has theresults
as the areamount
density
highest parallel oftotear
thestrength
of longitudinal findings of Krook
yarn is both
decreased.
in warp
and Fox
and[11].
weft They discovered
direction. that
The other the tear structures
plain-weave strength of themuch
show fabriclesser
increases as the This
tear strength. density of
is because
of the warp and weft yarn density of the fabric. This test results are parallel to the findings of Krook
and Fox [11]. They discovered that the tear strength of the fabric increases as the density of
longitudinal yarn is decreased. Looking at Table 1, we can see that the canvas fabric has
much at
Looking lower
TableEPI1,and
we PPI
canthan otherthe
see that derivatives. Thathas
canvas fabric is why it has
much much
lower EPI greater
and PPItear
thanstrength.
other derivatives.
Tensile
That is whyStrength:
it has muchthe greater
tensile tear
strength of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results
strength.
Tensile Strength:
are shown the tensile strength of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are shown
below.
below.
Fabric structure vs tensile strength

of plain structures
800
660
700
Tensile Strength, N
600 529
456
500
367,86
400 338
300 382 378

303,81
200 262,4
100 180
Warp Weft
0
Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5
Fabric Structure
Figure
Figure2.2.Tensile
Tensilestrength
strengthof
ofvarious
various plain
plain weave structures
weave structures
Figure 2 shows that the canvas fabric (Sample 3) has much greater tensile strength than the other derivatives
Figure 2 shows that the canvas fabric (Sample 3) has much greater tensile strength than the other
of the plain structure. This happened due to the fact that the canvas fabric had much greater warp way and
derivatives
weft of the
way strength, plaindirectly
which structure. This happened
contributed due totensile
to the greater the fact that the
strength thancanvas
in thefabric
other had much
fabrics [12].
Skewness:
NURUNNABI theM,
greater warp skewness
way
et al. andpercentage
Studyweft of the Analysis
way strength,
on Comparative plain weave
which samples
of directly
Basic 1-5 was analysed
contributed
Woven Fabrics … to
TLRthe and the00-00.
greater
0 (0) 2020 results
tensile are shown
strength
below.
than in the other fabrics [12].
Skewness: the skewness percentage of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are
Fabric structure vs skewness
shown below. of plain structures
3,00%
2,40%
2,50%
Skewness, %
1,80%
2,00% 1,60%
1,50%
0,80%
1,00%
0,40% Fabric Skewness %
0,50%
0,00%
Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5
Fabric Structure
Figure
Figure3.
3. Skewness (%) of
Skewness (%) of various
variousplain
plainweave
weavestructures
structures
Figure 3 shows that the dobby fabric (Sample 1) has the lowest percentage of skewness out of all the plain
Figure 3 shows that the dobby fabric (Sample 1) has the lowest percentage of skewness out of all the
structures. This happened due to the fact that the interlacement of the dobby design is more congested
plain
than structures.
it is This
in the other happened
designs. due to the
This property fact to
tends that theininterlacement
result of of
the lower value theskewness
dobby design is more
[13]. The canvas
fabric (Sample
congested 3) has
than it is an average
in the otherskewness
designs. compared to the
This property other
tends derivatives.
to result in the lower value of skewness
[13]. The canvas fabric (Sample 3) has an average skewness compared to the other derivatives.
Shrinkage: the shrinkage percentage of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results
are shown below.
plain structures. This happened due to the fact that the interlacement of the dobby design is more
congested than it is in the other designs. This property tends to result in the lower value of skewness
[13]. The canvas fabric (Sample 3) has an average skewness compared to the other derivatives.
Shrinkage: the shrinkage percentage of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results
Shrinkage: the shrinkage percentage of the plain weave samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are shown
are shown below.
below.
Fabric structure vs shrinkage

of plain structures
1%
-0,50% -0,40%
0%
-1% Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5
-2%
Shrinkage, %
-1,70% -1,80% -1,80%

-2,00%
-3%
-4% -3,70%
-5% -4,00% -3,90%
-6%
-6,60%
-7%
Warp Weft
-8%
Fabric structure
Figure 4. Shrinkage (%) of various plain weave structures

Figure 4. Shrinkage (%) of various plain weave structures
Figure 4 shows that the canvas and the oxford canvas fabric (Samples 3 and 4) have the lowest shrinkage
Figure 4 shows
percentage in weftthat the canvas
direction. This isand
due the oxford
to the canvas
fact that the fabric
weave(Samples 3 and
pattern with 4) have
a higher the lowest
number of inter-
lacements
shrinkagehas
Elongation: lower
percentage
the shrinkage
in weft
elongation value [14].of
direction.
percentage This
theis plain
due to the fact
weave that the
samples 1-5weave pattern with a higher
was analysed
Elongation:
number ofthe elongation percentage
interlacements of the plain
has lower shrinkage weave
value [14].samples 1-5 was analysed and the results are
and the results are shown below.
shown below.
Fabric structure vs elongation

of plain structures
35%
29,20%
30%
25% 21,80% 22,40%
Elongation, %
20%
14,40%
15% 12,10% 12,20%
10%
5%
Warp Weft
0%
Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3
Fabric Structure
Figure 5. Elongation
Figure 5. Elongation(%)
(%)of
ofvarious
variousplain
plainweave
weavestructures
structures
Figure 5 shows that the dobby fabric (Sample 2) has the highest percentage of elongation. The reason
Figure 5 shows that the dobby fabric (Sample 2) has the highest percentage of elongation. The
behind this is the high weft density [15]. Looking at Table 1 we can see that Sample 2 has the highest PPI
reason
value outbehind thisother
of all the is thefabrics.
high weft density [15]. Looking at Table 1 we can see that Sample 2 has the
From thePPI
highest above
valueanalysis
out ofweall can
the come
other to a conclusion that Sample 3 (canvas fabric) has the best elongation
fabrics.
percentage compared
From the above to the
analysis weother
can plain
comestructures.
to a conclusion that Sample 3 (canvas fabric) has the best
elongation percentage compared to the other plain structures.
Twill-weave structure: Samples 6-9, which represent the twill-weave structure, were taken and
tested in order to compare their mechanical properties. The results are shown below.
Tear strength: the tear strength of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are
Twill-weave structure: Samples 6-9, which represent the twill-weave structure, were taken and tested in
NURUNNABI
order M, ettheir
to compare al. Study on Comparative
mechanical Analysis
properties. Theofresults
Basic Woven Fabrics
are shown … TLR 0 (0) 2020 00-00.
below.
Tear strength: the tear strength of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are shown below.
of twill structures
30
23,7
25 Fabric structure vs tear strength
21
20
N Strength, N
of twill structures 18,1

20 15 14,6
30 13
15 23,7
25 20 7,83 21
10
Tear
18,1
Tear Strength,
20 15
5 14,6
13 Warp Weft
15
0
7,83
10 Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 Sample 9
5 Fabric Structure
Warp Weft
0
Figure
Sample 6 6. Tear strength
Sampleanalysis
7 of various twill
Sample 8 fabrics Sample 9
Fabric Structure
Figure 6 shows that SampleFigure

9, herringbone
6.6.Tear
Figure fabric,
Tearstrength
strength hasof
analysis
analysis ofthe greatest
various
various amount of tear strength, both in
twillfabrics
twill fabrics
warp and weft direction. The other twill-weave structures show much lesser tear strength. This is
Figure 6 shows that Sample 9, herringbone fabric, has the greatest amount of tear strength, both in warp
because
Figure of the warp
6 shows and weft
that Sample 9, yarn density of
herringbone the fabric.
fabric, has theThis test results
greatest amount areofparallel to the findings
tear strength, both in
and weft direction. The other twill-weave structures show much lesser tear strength. This is because of
theof Krook
warp
warpand and
and Foxdirection.
weft
weft [11].density
yarn TheyThe
discovered
ofother thatThis
thetest
twill-weave
the fabric. tear strength
structures
results ofparallel
show
are themuch
fabric increases
to lesser
the tear as
findings ofthe density
strength.
Krook and of
This is
Fox
theThey
[11]. longitudinal
because discoveredyarn
of the warp isthe
that
and decreased.
tearyarn
weft Looking
strength ofatthe
of the
density Table
fabric 1 we cantest
increases
fabric. This assee
thethat the
density
results areofherringbone fabric
the longitudinal
parallel to the has is
yarn
findings
decreased.
much Lookingand
lower at Table 1 we can see derivatives;
that the herringbone fabric has much lower tear
EPI and PPI than the
of Krook andEPI PPIThey
Fox [11]. than the other
discovered that the tearthat is why
strength it the
of has much
fabric greater
increases as strength [16].
the density of
other derivatives; that is why it has much greater tear strength [16].
Tensile strength: yarn
the longitudinal the tensile strengthLooking
is decreased. of the twill-weave
at Table 1 samples
we can see6-9 was
that analysed and the results
the herringbone are
fabric has
Tensile strength: the tensile strength of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are shown
shown below.
much lower
below. EPI and PPI than the other derivatives; that is why it has much greater tear strength [16].
Tensile strength: the tensile strength of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are
shown below. Fabric structure vs tensile strength
of twill structures
800
Warp Weft
N Strength, N
600 of twill structures

648
800
400 Warp Weft 513
401 476
Tensile
600 330
Tensile Strength,
200 648
258
400 513
176 161
401 476
0
330
Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 Sample 9
200
258
Fabric Structure
176 161
0
Sample
Figure 67.7.Tensile
Figure Sampleanalysis
Tensilestrength
strength 7
analysis Sample
of various 8 fabrics
twill
twill fabrics Sample 9
Fabric Structure
Figure 7 shows that the herringbone fabric (Sample 9) has much greater tensile strength than the other deriv-
Figure 7 shows that the herringbone fabric
Figure 7. Tensile (Sample
strength 9) has
analysis muchtwillgreater
fabrics tensile strength than the
atives of the twill structure. This is due to the fact that theofherringbone
various
fabric has much higher warp way
other derivatives of the twill structure. This is due to the fact that
and weft way strength, which directly contributes to greater tensile strength the herringbone
than in the fabric has much
other fabrics [12].
Figure 7 shows that the herringbone fabric (Sample 9) has much greater tensile strength than the
other derivatives of the twill structure. This is due to the fact that the herringbone fabric has much
strength than in the other fabrics [12].
Skewness:
NURUNNABI
higher M,the
warp et
way skewness
al. Study
and weft percentage
on Comparative of the
Analysis
way strength, twill-weave
of Basic
which samples
Woven
directly Fabrics6-9 was
… TLR
contributes analysed
to 3greater
(4) and the results are
2020tensile
226-239.
shown below.
strength than in the other fabrics [12].
Skewness: thethe
Skewness: skewness percentage
skewness of the
percentage twill-weave
of the structuresamples
twill-weave
Fabric 6-9 6-9
vs samples
skewness waswas
analysed and the
analysed andresults are shown
the results are
below. of twill structures
shown below.
1,2%
1,00% 1,00%
1,0% Fabric structure vs skewness
0,80% of twill structures
0,8%
Skewness, %
1,2%
0,6% 1,00% 1,00%
1,0%
0,4% 0,80% 0,30%
0,8% Fabric Skewness
Skewness, %
0,2%
0,6%
0,0%
0,4% 0,30%
Fabric Skewness
0,2% Fabric Structure
0,0%
Figure
Sample 6 8. Skewness (%) analysis
Sample 7 of various twill8 fabrics
Sample Sample 9
Fabric Structure
Figure 8 shows that the herringbone fabric (%)
Figure 8. Skewness (Sample
analysis9)ofhas the twill
various lowest percentage of skewness. This is
fabrics
Figure 8. Skewness (%) analysis of various twill fabrics
because the herringbone or any other type of the zigzag twill (in which the diagonal lines do not
Figure 8 shows
follow that the herringbone
acrossfabric (Sample of9)the
hasfabric)
the lowest percentage of skewness. Thisbecoming
is because
Figure 8 the same
shows thatdirection
the herringbone the width
fabric (Sample 9) has the eliminate the risk
lowest percentage of of
theskewness.
fabric This is
the herringbone or any other type of the zigzag twill (in which the diagonal lines do not follow the same
skewed. This
becauseacross is because,
the herringbone in such weaves, floats (in-plane levers) act in opposition to each other [13].
direction the width ofor theany other
fabric) type of the
eliminate therisk
zigzag twill
of the (in which
fabric the skewed.
becoming diagonalThis
linesis do not
because,
Shrinkage:
infollow
such weaves, the
the same shrinkage
floats percentage
(in-plane
direction levers)
across of
theact the twill-weave
in opposition
width samples
to each
of the fabric) 6-9 was
other [13].
eliminate analysed and the results
the risk of the fabric becoming are
Shrinkage: the shrinkage
shown below.
skewed. This percentage
is because, of the twill-weave
in such weaves, samples
floats (in-plane 6-9act
levers) wasinanalysed andtothe
opposition results
each otherare shown
[13].
below.
Shrinkage: the shrinkage percentage of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are
shown below. Fabric structure vs shrinkage
of twill structures
0%
-1%
Fabric structure vs shrinkage
-2% of-1,10%
twill structures -1,70%
0%
Shrinkage, %
-3% -2,60%9
Sample -3,50%
6 Sample 7 Sample 8 Sample
-1%
-4%
-2% -1,10% -1,70%
-5%
Warp Weft
Shrinkage, %
-3% -2,60%
-6%
-3,50% -5,40%
-4%
-7%
-5%
-8% -7,50% Warp Weft
-7,50%
-6% -8,00%
-9% -5,40%
-7% Fabric Structure
-8% -7,50% Figure
Figure
9. 9. Shrinkage(%)
Shrinkage (%)analysis
analysisofofvarious
various twillfabrics
-7,50%twill fabrics
-8,00%
-9%
Fabric Structure
Figure 9 shows that 2/2 S twill and 2/1 S twill fabrics (Samples 7 and 8) have the lowest shrinkage percentage.
Figure 9.pattern
This is due to the fact that the weave Shrinkagewith
(%) analysis
a higherof various
number twill
offabrics
interlacements has lower shrinkage
value [14].
Elongation: the elongation percentage of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results are
shown below.
Elongation: the elongation percentage of the twill-weave samples 6-9 was analysed and the results
are shown below.

of twill structures
35%
29,40%
30% 26,24%
23,80% 24,20%
25%
Elongation %
27,30%
20%
15%
16,40% 15,30%
10% 11,59%
5%
Warp Weft
0%
Fabric Structure
Figure 10. Elongation (%) analysis of various twill fabrics

Figure 10. Elongation (%) analysis of various twill fabrics
Figure 10 shows that 2/2 S twill fabric (Sample 7) has the highest percentage of elongation. The reason
Figure 10 shows that 2/2 S twill fabric (Sample 7) has the highest percentage of elongation. The
behind this is the high weft density [15]. Looking at Table 1, we can see that Sample 7 has the highest PPI
reason
value outbehind this
of all the is the
other high weft density [15]. Looking at Table 1, we can see that Sample 7 has the
fabrics.
From the above
highest analysis
PPI value weallcan
out of thecome tofabrics.
other a conclusion that Sample 9 (herringbone fabric) shows the optimum
property compared to the other twill structures.
From the above analysis we can come to a conclusion that Sample 9 (herringbone fabric) shows the
optimum
Plain, property
twill and comparedanalysis
satin combined to the other twill structures.
On the basis of the above analysis, Sample 3 of the plain structure, Sample 9 of the twill structure and Sample
10Plain,
of thetwill
satin structure
and are takenanalysis
satin combined for the combined analysis of the mechanical properties of those fabrics.
Tear strength: the tear
NURUNNBI M, strength
et al. Studyofon
the derivativesAnalysis
Comparative of the of
plain (Sample
Basic 3), twill…(Sample
Woven Fabrics TLR 0 (0) 9) and00-00.
2020 satin (Sample
On the basis of the above analysis, Sample 3 of the plain structure, Sample 9 of the twill structure
10) fabric was analysed and the results are shown below.
and Sample 10 of the satin structure are taken for the combined analysis of the mechanical
properties of those fabrics.
of plain,
Tear strength: the tear strength of the twill and of
derivatives satin
thestructures
plain (Sample 3), twill (Sample 9) and satin
60
(Sample 10) fabric
50
was analysed and the results are shown below.
43
37,8
Tear Strength, N
40
30 23,7 36,9
32
20
10 13,1
Warp Weft
0
Sample 3 (Canvas) Sample 9 (Herringbone) Sample 10 (Satin)
Fabric Structure
Figure 11.Figure
Tear strength analysisanalysis
11. Tear strength of plain,
oftwill
plain,and
twillsatin
and fabrics
satin fabrics
Looking at Figure 11, we can see that Sample 3, which is a plain fabric, has the greatest tear strength. Tear
Looking at Figure 11, we can see that Sample 3, which is a plain fabric, has the greatest tear strength.
strength of the plain weave is greater than that of the twill weave because the plain weave is less porous
Tear strength of the plain weave is greater than that of the twill weave because the plain weave is
less porous and has a higher number of warp and weft interlacements. The plain weave has the
greatest strength in warp way due to the increased number of crossover points compared to other
weave types [7].
Tear strength of the plain weave is greater than that of the twill weave because the plain weave is
less porous
NURUNNABI M, etand has aonhigher
al. Study number
Comparative of warp
Analysis andWoven
of Basic weft interlacements.
Fabrics … TLR 3 (4)The plain
2020 weave has the
226-239.
greatest strength in warp way due to the increased number of crossover points compared to other
and weave types [7].

has a higher number of warp and weft interlacements. The plain weave has the greatest strength in
warpTensile
way due to the increased
strength: number of
the tear strength of the
crossover pointsofcompared
derivatives the plain to other weave
(Sample 3), twilltypes [7]. 9) and
(Sample
Tensile strength:
satin (Sample the tear strength
10) fabric of the
was analysed andderivatives
the resultsofare
the plainbelow.
shown (Sample 3), twill (Sample 9) and satin
(Sample 10) fabric was analysed and the results are shown below.

of plain, twill and satin structures
800
600
600
Tensile strength, N
660 648
400
382 320,2
330
200
Warp Weft
0
NURUNNABI M, et al. Study on Comparative AnalysisFabric Structure
of Basic Woven Fabrics … TLR 0 (0) 2020 00-00.
Figure 12.12.
Figure Tensile strength
Tensile strengthanalysis
analysis of
of plain, twilland
plain, twill andsatin
satinfabrics
fabrics
number compared to other weave structures. Because of the increased number of interlacements,
Looking at Figure 12, we can see that Sample 3, which is a plain fabric, has the greatest tensile strength. This
theLooking
is due
at Figure in
frictional
to the factpoint
12, weyarns
that thethe
can see
alsothat
interlacement
Samplewhich
increases,
points of the
3, which is a plaintofabric,
plaincontributes
has thetensile
theingreater
fabric are greater number
greatest tensileof
strength
compared to other
strength. This is due to the fact that the interlacement points of the plain fabric are greater in
weave structures.
the fabric [17]. Because of the increased number of interlacements, the frictional point in the yarns also
increases,
Skewness: which
thecontributes to the greater
skewness percentage tensile
of the strengthof
derivatives ofthe
the plain
fabric(Sample
[17]. 3), twill (Sample 9) and
Skewness: the skewness percentage of the derivatives of the plain (Sample 3), twill (Sample 9) and satin
satin (Sample 10) fabric was analysed and the results are shown below.
(Sample 10) fabric was analysed and the results are shown below.
Fabric structure vs skewness

2,5%
1,80%
2,0% 1,60%
Skewness, %
1,5%
1,0%
0,30%
0,5%
Skewness
0,0%
Fabric Structure
Figure13.
Figure 13.Skewness
Skewnesspercentage
percentage analysis of plain,
plain, twill
twilland
andsatin
satinfabrics
fabrics
Figure 13 shows that Sample 9 (herringbone fabric) has the lowest skewness percentage compared to the
Figure 13 shows that Sample 9 (herringbone fabric) has the lowest skewness percentage compared
plain and satin structure. Generally, the plain weave tends to show lower skewness percentage than the
to the plain and satin structure. Generally, the plain weave tends to show lower skewness
twill weave. But the herringbone or any other type of the zigzag twill structure (in which the diagonal lines
dopercentage thansame
not follow the the twill weave.
direction But the herringbone
across width of the or any eliminate
fabric) other typethe
of risk
the of
zigzag twill structure
the fabric becoming
skewed. Thisthe
(in which is because,
diagonal in such
lines doweaves, floats
not follow the(in-plane levers) across
same direction act in opposition to the
the width of eachfabric)
othereliminate
[13].
the risk of the fabric becoming skewed. This is because, in such weaves, floats (in-plane levers) act in
opposition to each other [13].
Shrinkage: the shrinkage percentage of the derivatives of the plain (Sample 3), twill (Sample 9) and
Shrinkage:NURUNNBI M, et al.
the shrinkage Study on Comparative
percentage Analysis of
of the derivatives ofBasic
the Woven Fabrics …3),
plain (Sample TLRtwill
0 (0)(Sample
2020 00-00.
9) and satin
(Sample 10) fabric was analysed andFabric
the structure
results are shown below.
vs shrinkage
-0,50%
0% Fabric structure vs shrinkage
-1% Sample 3 (Canvas) of Sample
plain, twill and satin structures
9 (Herringbone) Sample 10 (Satin)
-0,50%
-2% 0%
Shrinkage, %
-2,00%
-3% -1%
-2,60%
-4% -2%
Shrinkage, %
-2,00%
-5% -3% -6,00%
-2,60%
-6% -4%
-7% -5% -6,00%
-8% -6%
-8,00% -9,30%
-9% -7% Warp Weft
-10% -8%
-8,00% -9,30%
-9% Fabric Structure
Warp Weft
-10%
Figure 14. Shrinkage percentage analysis
Fabric of plain, twill and satin fabrics
Structure
Figure 14.Figure
Shrinkage percentage analysis of plain, twill and satin fabrics
14. Shrinkage percentage analysis of plain, twill and satin fabrics
Looking at Figure 14, we can see that Sample 3, which is a plain weave, has the lowest shrinkage
Looking at Figurecompared
percentage 14, we cantoseethethat Sample
twill and 3, which
satin is a plain
weave. Thisweave, has thethe
is because lowest shrinkage
increased percentage
number of
Looking at Figure 14, we can see that Sample 3, which is a plain weave, has the lowest shrinkage
compared to the twill
interlacements andlower
causes satinshrinkage
weave. This is because
values [14]. Thethe increased
twill and satinnumber of have
structures interlacements causes
comparatively
lower shrinkage values [14]. The twill and satin structures have comparatively lower number of interlace- of
percentage compared to the twill and satin weave. This is because the increased number
lower number of interlacement points, which is why they have higher shrinkage values.
ment points, which is why
interlacements they have
causes lowerhigher shrinkage
shrinkage valuesvalues.
[14]. The twill and satin structures have comparatively
Elongation:
Elongation: the elongation
the number
elongation percentage of
percentage ofpoints, the derivatives
the derivatives of of
thethe plain
plain (Sample
(Sample 3),3), twill
twill (Sample 9) and
(Sample
lower of interlacement which is why they have higher shrinkage values.9) and satin
satin 10)
(Sample (Sample
fabric10)
wasfabric was analysed
analysed and the and the are
results results
shownare below.
shown below.
Elongation: the elongation percentage of the derivatives of the plain (Sample 3), twill (Sample 9) and
satin (Sample 10) fabric was analysed and the results are shown below.
40% Fabric structure vs elongation
35% of plain, twill and satin structures
36,67%
30% 40%
24,20%
22,40%
Elongation, %
25% 35%
36,67%
20% 30%
24,20% 14,25%
22,40%
Elongation, %
15% 25%
15,30%
10% 20%
12,20% Warp 14,25%
Weft
5% 15%
15,30%
0% 10%
12,20% Warp Weft
5% Sample 3 (Canvas) Sample 9 (Herringbone) Sample 10 (Satin)
0% Fabric Structure
Figure 15. Elongation percentage analysis of plain, twill and satin fabrics
Figure 15. Elongation percentage analysis of Structure
Fabric plain, twill and satin fabrics
Figure 15 shows that Sample 3,Figure which is a plain percentage

15. Elongation weave, has the of
analysis lowest elongation
plain, twill percentage and Sample
and satin fabrics
Figure 15 shows that Sample 3, which is a plain weave, has the lowest elongation percentage and
10, which is a satin fabric, has relatively higher shrinkage percentage than the other two structures. This is
dueSample 10, that
to the fact which is afabrics
plain satin fabric, has relatively
have higher number of higher shrinkage percentage
interlacements between warp thanandtheweft
other two
yarn in the
Figure 15 shows that Sample 3, which is a plain weave, has the lowest elongation percentage and
fabric structure compared to the twill and satin structure. This high number of intersecting points contrib-
Sample 10, which is a satin fabric, has relatively higher shrinkage percentage than the other two
utes to the lower elongation percentage of the plain fabric [15].
From the above discussion and the analysis, we can come to a conclusion that the canvas structure produced
in the air-jet loom shows significantly better mechanical properties than the twill and satin fabrics produced
in the same loom.
CONCLUSION
The woven fabric has a much broader scope of end utilization than other kinds of fabric. That is why the
manufacturing process should be adjusted to fulfil those performance prerequisites. The physical structures
and the chemical properties of the woven fabric will determine how it will perform and whether it will be
acceptable for a particular use or not. Fabric testing plays a crucial role in guaranteeing product quality, regu-
lating compliances, and the assessment of the performance of a textile material. Creating a clear concept
of the various mechanical properties of the woven fabric can lead the path of further improvement of the
woven fabric structure, which will be beneficial for many end-use applications, especially for technical textiles
and protective clothing. In this research, the effectiveness of mechanical properties of varying weave struc-
tures was shown. It should be noted that, even if the fabric parameters remain the same, a more complex
mechanical behaviour of fabrics can be implanted and studied as well. More advanced research work on
this topic can be done in order to increase the knowledge even further.
REFERENCES
[1] Patil RB, Turukmane R. Structural behavior of fabric design on mechanical properties of woven fabrics.
Melliand International. 2019. 25;83-85.
[2] Patil YB, Kolte PP, Daberao AM, Sharma B. A critical analysis of airjet loom performance. Man Made
Textiles in India. 2018. 46(10):350-353.
[3] Shintani R, Okajima A. Air flow through a weft passage of profile reed in air jet looms. Journal of Textile
Engineering. 2002; 48(2):56-63. https://doi.org/10.4188/jte.48.56
[4] Uno M. A Study on an Air-Jet Loom with Substreams Added: Part 1: Deriving the Equation of Motion
for Weft. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan. 1972; 18(2):37-44. https://doi.org/10.4188/
jte1955.18.37
[5] Ishida M, Okajima A. Flow characteristics of the main nozzle in an air-jet loom: part I: measuring flow in the
main nozzle. Textile Research Journal. 1994; 64(1):10-20. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759406400102
[6] Kim SJ. Effects of the Air-Jet Loom Characteristics on the Hand Properties of the Sensitive Mixture
Fabrics. Textile Coloration and Finishing. 2008; 20(6):63-68. https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2008.20.6.063
[7] Jahan I. Effect of fabric structure on the mechanical properties of woven fabrics. Advance Research in
Textile Engineering. 2017; 2(2).
[8] Booth JE. Principles of textile testing. London: Heywood Books; 1970.
[9] Dolatabadi KM, Kovar R. Anisotropy in tensile properties of plain weave fabric–Part I: The meso-scale
model. Textile Research Journal. 2012; 82(16):1666-1676. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517511435003
[10] Triki E, Dolez P, Vu-Khanh T. Tear resistance of woven textiles–criterion and mechanisms. Composites
Part B: Engineering. 2011; 42(7):1851-1859. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compositesb.2011.06.015
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[12] Majumdar A, et al. Empirical modelling of tensile strength of woven fabrics. Fibers and Polymers. 2008;
9:240-245. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-008-0038-9
[13] Alamdar-Yazdi A. Weave structure and the skewness of woven fabric. Research Journal of Textile and
Apparel. 2004; 8(2):28-33. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-08-02-2004-B004
[14] Topalbekiroglu M, Kubra KH. The effect of weave type on dimensional stability of woven fabrics.
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. 2008; 20(5):281-288. https://doi.
org/10.1108/09556220810898890
[15] Abou Nassif GA. Effect of weave structure and weft density on the physical and mechanical properties
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TEXTILE

Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic

Md. Nurunnabi, Jubayer Ibn Haris, Fairooz Raisa Mridula

How to link: https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2020.06

Published: 1 December 2020

Study on Comparative Analysis of Basic Woven Fabrics

Original scientific article

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The woven fabrics produced in the air-jet loom are as follows:

Table 1. Air-jet loom fabric sample

Fabric structure vs tensile strength

300 382 378

Fabric structure vs shrinkage

-1,70% -1,80% -1,80%

Figure 4. Shrinkage (%) of various plain weave structures

Fabric structure vs elongation

of twill structures 18,1

Figure 6 shows that SampleFigure

600 of twill structures

Fabric structure vs elongation

Figure 10. Elongation (%) analysis of various twill fabrics

and weave types [7].

Fabric structure vs tensile strength

Fabric structure vs skewness

Figure 15 shows that Sample 3,Figure which is a plain percentage

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