Modern Door and Window Preparation

WOGELTENA TVET COLLEGE
Department of Manufacturing Technology
PROJECTPROPOSAL: - MODERN DOOR’S AND WINDOWS PREPARATION INFO

WARE TECHNOLOGY
PREPARED By: - MOLLA DESALEW
WOGELTENA, WOLLO, ETHIOPIA
JUN 2013 E.C

Modern Door’s And Windows Preparation Info Ware Technology
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
“First of all I thank my God to keep this difficult time of the year”.
We would like to express our sincerely gratitude to the following people for the success of this
technology. First we would like to express the Vis dean and Industry Extension and Technology
Transition Co-coordinator AtoBezabhMamo; to give suggestion, comments and great moral that
achieve to my technology. Secondly we would like to my Favorites friend Asaye Biargo support
this technology working time either technical or moral advice or material selection.
Ajibar Polytechnic College Page 2

Contents Pages
ACKNOWLEDGMENT.................................................................................................................2
CHAPTER ONE............................................................................................................................5
1.1 Introduction............................................................................................................................5
1.2 Back Ground of the Project....................................................................................................5
1.2 Statement of the Problem.......................................................................................................6
1.3 Objective of the Project..........................................................................................................6
1.3.1 Main Objective................................................................................................................6
1.3.2. Specific Objective..........................................................................................................6
1.4 Significance of the Project.................................................................................................6
1.5 Scope of the Project...............................................................................................................7
1.6 Feasibility Study....................................................................................................................7
1.6.1 Technical Feasibility.......................................................................................................7
1.6.2 Operational Feasibility....................................................................................................7
1.6.3. Economic feasibility.......................................................................................................7
CHAPTER TWO...........................................................................................................................7
2. LITERATURE REVIEW........................................................................................................7
2.1 The History and Craftsmanship of Steel Windows and Doors..........................................7
2.2. VALUE CHAIN FOR door and window preparation (AS IS)...........................................10
2.3. VALUE CHAIN FOR doors and window preparation info ware technology bench mark
....................................................................................................................................................10
2.4. VALUE CHAIN FOR doors and window preparation info ware technology....................11
GAP............................................................................................................................................11
2. 5. FACTS AND FIGURES....................................................................................................11
2.6 INTER RELATIONS OF VALUE CHAIN BETWEEN AS IS THE CHANGES THAT
COME FROM BENCH MARKING.........................................................................................12
CHAPTER THREE.....................................................................................................................13
3.1 METHDOLOGY.................................................................................................................13
3.1.1 Window Materials.............................................................................................................13
Type 1:- Window Construction..............................................................................................13
3.1.1.1 Window frame materials............................................................................................13
3.1.1.2 Understanding Window Efficiency............................................................................15
Type 2: Glass.............................................................................................................................15
1 Single-Pane Clear Glass....................................................................................................15
2. Low-E Glass....................................................................................................................15
3 Laminated Glass..................................................................................................................16
4 Tempered Glass...................................................................................................................16
5 Insulating Glass...................................................................................................................16
6 Obscure Glass......................................................................................................................16
3.1.2 Types of Windows............................................................................................................17
Type 1: Basic Windows.........................................................................................................17
6 Glass Block..........................................................................................................................19
7 Garden.................................................................................................................................19
8 Skylight...............................................................................................................................19
9 Barn.....................................................................................................................................20
Type 2: Combination Windows.................................................................................................20
1 Bay.......................................................................................................................................20
2 Bow.....................................................................................................................................20
3 Combination Picture Window.............................................................................................21
4 Storm...................................................................................................................................21
3.1.2 Types of Doors..................................................................................................................21
1: Interior Doors.........................................................................................................................21
1 Interior Panel Door..............................................................................................................22
2 Sash Door............................................................................................................................22
3 French door..........................................................................................................................23
4 Pocket Door.........................................................................................................................23
5 Bypassing Door...................................................................................................................23
6. Bifold Door........................................................................................................................23
7 Louver Door........................................................................................................................24
2: Exterior Doors........................................................................................................................24
A. Wood...............................................................................................................................24
B. Steel...................................................................................................................................24
C. Fiberglass........................................................................................................................25

D. Storm Door......................................................................................................................25
E. Patio Doors......................................................................................................................25
F. Swinging Patio Door.......................................................................................................26
G. Sliding Patio Door...........................................................................................................26
H. Commercial Door............................................................................................................26
Making Door Frames.....................................................................................................................27
Exotic Shapes.................................................................................................................................33
Making the Doors..........................................................................................................................36
Windows........................................................................................................................................37
Maintaining a Historic Door and window.....................................................................................37
Repairing a Historic Door..............................................................................................................37
Replacement Doors........................................................................................................................38
Welding procedure.........................................................................................................................39
Prepare welding materials..........................................................................................................39
Safety......................................................................................................................................39
Welding..................................................................................................................................39
Welding of specific material..................................................................................................39
Perform routine welding................................................................................................................42
Basic Steps of Arc Welding...........................................................................................................43
Design Process...............................................................................................................................44
Design of each part Example of window and door preparation.................................................44
Table 1.raw materials.................................................................................................................51
Table 2 Tools & Equipments.....................................................................................................51
The Total cost of product...............................................................................................................51
Table 3 schedule.........................................................................................................................52
Reference.......................................................................................................................................53

CHAPTER ONE
1.1 INTRODUCTION
1.2 Back Ground of the Project
Doors and windows are fairly complex structures. They have as many different looks as there are
designers drawing them, but they do tend to have some properties in common. The parts that
make up a door use the same woodworking names as a flat does: the uprights are stiles, and the
horizontal members are rails. Doors and windows may be either built as an integral part of a wall
structure or constructed as separate units. Sometimes it is best to simply attach all of the parts to
the wall, especially when hard-cover flats are concerned. If the show must break down either to
tour or because it has multiple scenes, having a separate door unit can be quite cumbersome. It is
probably easier to move the wall with the door in it. If the wall is double-sided, it would be very
difficult to build a door and frame that are removable.
Much of the time, independent units are more cost-effective—especially for a show with a single
box set. Doors (or windows) can be removed from one wall and reused in another. Eventually a
stock is built up that can be recycled and will cut costs in the long run. If your theatre has a main
season and a lower-budget “studio season,” the lower-budget shows can definitely benefit from
being able to pull scenery from stock. Of course, you will need ample storage space if you plan
on keeping everything you build. Even if the frame is built as part of the wall structure, you will
still need facings, Trims and stops. You can use many of the techniques shown in this chapter to
build the Frame as a part of the wall. The sections on hanging a door will work with any type of
Construction.
1.2 Statement of the Problem
Doors and windows are difficult and complex structures made from many individual parts. It
isn’t really possible to salvage any materials from them, because the parts are too small. So it
makes sense to save them as individual units and reuse them.
In around Delanta woreda S&ME are use the traditional working procedure to window and doors
preparation so the customer is not satisfactory.

1.3 Objective of the Project
1.3.1 Main Objective
The main objective of the project is to design and procedure of doors and window preparation
with a customize design, easy to operate and locally manufactured using available material.
1.3.2. Specific Objective
The following are the specific objectives of the project: locally available materials that is useable
for MSE’s, to prepare to window and doors any person to be understand.
1.4 Significance of the Project

The accomplishment of the proposed project adds one step advance on technology accumulation
and transfer plan held by TVET as well as the government. The significance of the proposed
project is to window and door preparation that can avoid traditional working system.
In addition to that the proposed project have many advantages; to reduce manufacturing cost and
man power, to create job opportunities, to reduce foreign exchange/currency, In general, this
working procedure is efficient and effective that used to manufacture quality product.
1.5 Scope of the Project

The project is limited to designing of only two products such as window and doors
1.6 Feasibility Study

1.6.1 Technical Feasibility
This proposed project does not require additional training and high technical skills during
manufacturing process of the working activity.
1.6.2 Operational Feasibility

The proposed to the procedures of window and doors can worked by unskilled person/do not use
additional knowledge/with the use of tool manual because of it had not complicated mechanisms
simply reading manual.
1.6.3. Economic feasibility
To manufacturing procedures of the project materials can purchase from local market and
minimum labor. It also economical advantageous for job opportunity to the society either SME
or the user of the machine.

CHAPTER TWO
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 The History and Craftsmanship of Steel Windows and Doors
2.1.1 What gives steel its strength?

 An alloy of iron and carbon and sometimes other elements
 Smelted of iron ore
 Iron alone “ductile,” brittle and hard to work with
 Small amounts of carbon make it malleable and useful for building
 Carbon in steel gives it tensile strength
2.1.2 Steel production dates back to 1800 BC

 Evidence of steel production in Turkey in 1800 BC
 High-carbon steel used in India around 500 to 400 BC
 Steel from Austria and Slovenia used in Roman military
 Early windows made of wood and wrought iron
 Mild steel (iron with carbon) widely available in 1890s

2.1.3 The heyday for steel windows for art deco designs
 Steel windows reached heyday in 1920s and 1930s
 Larger panes and custom shapes popular
2.1.4 Aluminum windows rose post-war, but now steel is back

 Post-war building boom
 Manufacturers moved into unused war factories
 Then wood and fiberglass became standard for upscale homes
 Advances in window design and craftsmanship brought steel back for luxury homes

2.2. VALUE CHAIN FOR door and window preparation (AS IS)
cost analayisis d esign

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techn iqu e
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 Random Free hand method is only or apply
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material contaminant
s in the air.
2.3. VALUE CHAIN FOR doors and window preparation info ware technology bench mark
cost analayisis design

w elding w elding position qulity control kaizen
technique
Material cost  AutoCAD Proper use of Use of welding Quality Understand and
detail calculate  Solid work welding position such controlling apply KAIZEN
and sub technique and as horizontal, method is principle.
protect the modern such
production flat, vertical
molten puddle as billow of
material and over head material up
calculate from position. to deliver of
contaminants in the
the air. customer.

2.4. VALUE CHAIN FOR doors and window preparation info ware technology GAP
cost analayisis design

welding welding quality control kaizen
 Auto cad Proper use of
technique Useposition
of welding Quality Understand and
 Solid work welding position such as apply KAIZEN
controlling
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detail calculate molten over head as billow of
and sub puddle from position. material up to
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customer
calculate
2. 5. FACTS AND FIGURES

FACTS FIGUERS
Provide proper window and

doors preparation info ware
technology
Increases the delivery time
Reduce expensive material and

cost
Substituting importing product

2.6 INTER RELATIONS OF VALUE CHAIN BETWEEN AS IS THE CHANGES THAT
COME FROM BENCH MARKING
No Indicators Measurements Benchmarks AS IS
1 Doors and window Quality Can be produce easily Improper production step
preparation info and properly of materials
ware technology
2 cost Quality Chip Expensive
3 Production step simplicity simple complex
4 Tool life Duration Long lasting Short time
5 Material handling Quality Tools can be easily Difficult to handle
handled materials
6 Working area Quality Attractive Not attractive

CHAPTERTHREE
3.1 METHDOLOGY
The methods of designing this project are using different materials and websites for better
selection of mechanical system. Also by observing and interviewing different people and then,
using AUTO-CAD and solid work software in order to design and modeling the window and
door preparation.
3.1.1 Window Materials
Type 1:- Window Construction
To understand windows, it’s best to learn the various parts of a window. Click on each circle
below to learn about the different types.
Product Knowledge:
 The Jamb is the frame around the top and side of a window.
 The Sill is the piece that forms the bottom member of a window frame. It sheds water away
from the window and wall and usually extends 1” to 1-1/2” from the wall.
 The Frame is the entire jamb and sill assembly.
 The Sash (or Vent) is the frame that immediately surrounds the glass, or the entire frame and
glass assembly.
 The Stops are fastened around the inside of the jamb to hold the sliding sash in place or
provide a meeting surface for a swinging sash.
 The Mullion is the connecting piece between two or more windows fastened together.
 The Stool is the flat trim piece at the bottom inside of the window.
 The Apron is fastened along the interior wall beneath the stool, to hide the gap between the
bottom of the window and the wall.
 The Casing is the trim around the inside or outside of the window that hides the gap between
the window and the surrounding wall.

3.1.1.1 Window frame materials
Next, let’s look at the basic types of materials used in the window frame.
1. Wood
 Wood sash are made with mortise-and-ten on joints and glued together.
 They are usually made from pine or spruce.
 The advantage of wood is that it is the strongest and best natural insulator.
 It is easy to work with and durable if maintained properly.
 The disadvantage of wood is that it may decay or be damaged by insects.
2 Aluminum
 Aluminum frames are designed to compensate for
the natural disadvantages of the frame material.
 The advantage is that they are usually the least expensive frame
material.
 They are also more durable than bare wood, are lightweight and easy to handle.
 However, aluminum is a soft and weak material that doesn’t hold fasteners well
and it may corrode, especially if it comes into contact with a steel nail or screw.
 Another disadvantage is that aluminum is a poor insulator compared to wood or
vinyl, so some
Manufacturers insulate them with extruded vinyl and foam.
 These windows are often sold with anodized coatings or factory applied paints
for better durability.
3. Vinyl
 Vinyl windows are made from rigid PVC (or polyvinyl chloride).
 They have internal webs and hollows to enhance strength and energy efficiency.
 The advantage of vinyl is that it has a solid color throughout so the finish can’t chip or peel.
 It is also energy efficient, corrosion resistant and maintenance free.
 The disadvantage is that it cannot be painted, although some manufacturers offer them in a
variety of colors.

4. Fiberglass
 Fiberglass windows contain air cavities similar to those in vinyl windows. These
cavities add
 Insulation properties to the window.
 The advantage of these windows is that they are stable and will not warp, crack, rot or
bow. They are also easy to paint.
 They are low maintenance, chemically resistant and stand up to the corrosive effects
of salt and chemicals.
 The disadvantage of fiberglass is that it is usually more expensive than vinyl
5. Composition
 Composition windows blend different types of materials together, such as a combination
of wood fibers and polymers, or a combination of fiberglass and other materials.
Composition is usually specific to each manufacturer.
 These windows usually offer a more durable and energy efficient construction than other
types of windows.
3.1.1.2 Understanding Window Efficiency

There are several ways to measure the efficiency of a window.
 Windows with an Energy Star approval means it meets or exceeds standards set by the
United
 States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for energy efficiency. These windows will
be the most efficient.
 Another way to effectively gauge the energy efficiency of a window is to see if it has a
Certification from the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). The NFRC rates
window with several numbers. On the next screen, we’ll learn more about those numbers.
 The U-factor measures how well the window can keep heat from escaping the indoors. The
lower the number, the more efficient the window. This number is especially important
during the winter heating season.

Type 2: Glass
1 Single-Pane Clear Glass
 Single-pane clear glass is the simplest and least expensive type of glass.
 However, it has very little insulating value and provides only a thin barrier to the outside
 It can be cut to size with simple tools..
2. Low-E Glass
 Low-E glass, which is also known as low-emissivity glass, is a feature of glass that may be
combined with other features.
 It has a special coating on the glass that reduces the transfer of heat through the glass.
 It may also be tinted to further reduce heat gain.
 In the summer, the glass lets in visible sunlight and blocks out UV rays, which helps prevent
fading on furniture and carpets because of sunrays.
 In the winter, the coating reflects heat back into the room.
 Different window manufacturers may promote their own special glass with high energy
efficiency ratings.
3 Laminated Glass
 Laminated glass consists of multiple layers of glass bonded together with a tough plastic
layer in the middle.
 It acts and looks like a single piece of glass, but the layers help improve insulation properties
of the glass.
 It eliminates most UV rays, which helps protect home furnishing from the damaging effects
of the sun.
 Laminated glass can also help insulate against noise.

4 Tempered Glass
 Tempered glass is produced by a heat-treating process that makes it very strong and often
used for safety.
 When it breaks, it shatters into tiny pebble-like pieces, instead of dangerous shards. This
feature makes it ideal for patio doors and glass shower enclosures.
 It cannot be cut in the field, but must be manufactured to size.
5 Insulating Glass
 Insulating glass has two or three panes of glass with a dead air space between the panes.
 The space is often filled with a low conductance gas like argon, carbon dioxide or krypton.
 The dead-air space and the gas reduce the transfer of heat between the layers.
 This may also be a feature of low-e and/or laminated glass and may be combined with other
features.
 Each pane of glass adds R-1 insulation to the assembly. A double-paned glass offers R-2
insulation.
 These inert gases can add as much as R-2 to the window assembly.
6 Obscure Glass
 Obscure glass allows light to enter the room but blurs the image to protect privacy.
 This is a feature of glass often used in conjunction with other features.
 Obscure glass is most often used for bathrooms or doors where there may be no covering on
the window, but where privacy is still desired.
 Various surface texture patterns are available, ranging from translucent to a semi-opaque
effect.

3.1.2 Types of Windows

Type 1: Basic Windows
To understand windows, it’s best to learn the various parts of a window. Click on each circle
below to learn about the different types.
Product Knowledge:
1 Fixed
 A fixed window, also called a stationary window, is a type of window that doesn’t open.
 In this type of window, the glass is set directly into the window frame.
 Fixed windows are often used as decorative windows and may be manufactured in different
shapes, such as triangles, trapezoids or circles.
 Another type is the picture window. These usually have a large pane of glass that is intended
to create an unobstructed view of a panoramic scene outdoors.
 Fixed windows are often used to compliment other windows. Examples are circle tops or
ellipses, which are popular over multiple windows or patio doors.
2 Casement
 A casement window has a hinge on the side to swing outward so the sash doesn’t take up
space in the room.
 It usually has geared crank operators that make the window easy to open and close. If the
window is out of reach, a pole can be used to operate the crank.
 One advantage of this window is that it can be fully opened to provide 100-percent
ventilation.
 It can be installed as a single window or in pairs.
 One variation is the Tilt and Turn window. It has hinges at the bottom so that it opens at the
top like a hopper window. It also has hinges on the side so it can swing open like standard
casement window.

3 Awning
 An awning window is similar to a casement window in that it operates with a crank.
However, it is hinged at the top and swings outward at the bottom.
 It can be fully opened to provide 100-percent ventilation.
 There are several types available. One type is the Basement Utility window. The window
swings in and has a block frame so it can be easily installed in a masonry wall.
 Another type is a Hopper window. It is hinged at the bottom of the frame.
4 Hung Window
 A hung window has a sash that slides up and down on a track.
 It has an upper and lower sash, usually the same size.
 There are two basic types. In a Single-Hung window, only the lower sash opens.
 In a Double-Hung window, both the lower and upper sash opens.
 The window sash stays in an up or down position with the help of a friction mechanism
such as hidden springs or weights.
 One style is a Cottage or Oriel window style that has a smaller upper and larger lower sash.
5 Horizontal Sliding
 In the horizontal sliding window, the sash slides horizontally.
 It may have one or more panels that are fixed, or one or more panels that slide.
 This window is a good fit for a place where a swinging sash would be in the way.
 It is also easy to open, which makes it a good fit for using over places like kitchen counters
or sinks.

5 Glass Block
 A specially made block of glass used for a variety of applications, including filling the space
of a window.
 Lets in light but provides more security and insulation than a regular window.
 Installs with mortar like masonry block.
 A good solution for basement windows to provide extra security.
7 Garden
 Also known as a greenhouse window.
 Used for those who want a mini-greenhouse in their kitchen or other room?
 Has a center sash with two flanking sash at right angles and a sloped sash on top.
 It projects from the outside wall.
 Includes shelves for plants.
 Some manufacturers make the unit with the top sash at a 90º angle.
8 Skylight
 A window installed in a sloping roof.
 May be fixed or vented. Vented models can be opened with a manual crank or an electric
motor with remote operation.
 Uses four common light shafts for installations on a roof with a flat ceiling on the inside.
 Care must be taken during installation to ensure that the window is properly flashed and
caulked to avoid leaks.

9 Barn
 Also known as a utility sash.
 Glass with wood around the glass and no frame.
 Used for places where glass may be broken frequently, so it is just as economical to replace
the entire sash as it is to regale.
 Used to replace broken glass in barns and utility buildings.
 A Cellar Sash type is a three-lite sash of varying sizes.
 A Slip Head unit is a single sash that slides up through the head jamb to open.
Type 2: Combination Windows

1 Bay
 A bay window has two flanking windows that are mulled (or connected by a divider) at an
angle on each side of a large center window.
 The combination of the three windows projects from the wall.
 The window is covered by a small roof section that is usually built at the job site. Roofing
material may be shingles, or often galvanized metal or copper.
 The center window may be fixed or operational.
 The two flanking windows are usually casement, single- or double-hung or fixed.
 The angles between the three windows may be 30º or 45º.
 One type is the Box Bay window, which has the three windows set at 90º.
2 Bow
 A bow window projects from the wall like a bay window, but does not have the sharp angles
of the bay window.
 Instead, a series of narrow windows are mulled together to form an arc.
 Individual units of the window may be fixed or operational. Typically, the two end units
operate and the rest are fixed.

3 Combination Picture Window
 A picture window is a window combination unit that combines two of the basic styles of
windows.
 It often consists of a large, fixed window mulled with a smaller operating window on one or
both sides.
 Common combinations include a picture window flanked by two double hung windows, a
picture window flanked by two casement windows, a picture window over two awning
windows or a round top fixed window over a casement window.
3 Storm
 A storm window is sometimes called a combination window since it combines the function
of a screen and a storm window.
 This type of window improves energy efficiency by protecting the primary window from the
weather.
 It fastens directly to the exterior casing surrounding the window.
 There are several different styles. The Single-Track frame style consists of a piece of glass
in a lightweight sash permanently fixed in a nail-on frame. Used over fixed windows.
 The Dual-Track frame style consists of a glazed sash in the top half of the outer track and a
screen in the lower half. Another glazed sash in the inside track can be raised for ventilation.
 The Triple-Track frame style has two glazed sashes and a screen panel, all in a separate
track.
 This is a good choice for second floor windows.
3.1.2 Types of Doors

1: Interior Doors
Interior Door Construction
First, let’s look at the three basic ways interior doors are constructed.
Solid doors
 Solid doors are heavy and soundproof.

 They may be made of wood or MDF.

Solid core doors
 Solid core doors are usually more affordable than solid wood doors.
 On the inside of the door is an inner core of a solid wood fiber material. That core is then
laminated with plywood, steel or fiberglass.
Hollow core doors
 Hollow core doors are usually the least expensive. They consist of a core of cardboard in a
honeycomb arrangement, set inside a simple wood frame with a plywood veneer glued over it.
 They are lightweight; do not offer much sound blocking or security.
 You can also tell the difference between different doors by their style and the way they operate.
 Here are some common styles.
1 Interior Panel Door

 The frame of an interior panel door is typically made of Southern pine and panels may be flat
or raised.
 Flat panel doors are often made of plywood, particleboard or medium density fiberboard
(MDF).
2 Sash Door
 A sash door is a stile-and-rail construction door where panes of glass or other glazing
material fill the space between the framing members.
 The glazing units may be a single pane or divided into smaller individual lights.
 Building codes generally require that glass in a door be safety glass (tempered, laminated or
Embedded with wire mesh).

3 French door
 French doors, also known as casement doors, are usually installed in pairs.
 They can be both interior and exterior doors.
 The door consists mostly of glass, often with 1, 5, 10 or 15 lites (or panes of glass).
 Standard thicknesses are 1-3/8” or 1-3/4”.
 Standard widths are 2/0 (24”), 2/6 (30”), 2/8 (32”) or 3/0 (36”).
 Standard heights are 6/8 (80”) and 7/0 (84”).
4 Pocket Door
 A pocket door rolls back into a pocket in the wall.
 It uses standard interior doors with a frame for the pocket.
 A pre-built pocket kit includes a frame to house the door inside the wall, track and hardware.
 After the pocket frame is installed, the pocket part is covered with wall finish material to
look like part of the wall.
5 Bypassing Door
 A bypassing door is also known as a sliding door and is often used for closets.
 It has two or more standard interior doors hung on roller from a track and opens from side to side.
 Floor guides hold the doors in place at the bottom. All of the hardware and track typically
comes packaged with the door.
 Door should not exceed the weight limit for the track.
 Instructions should specify the finished opening, which is the distance between the jambs.
 Typical widths are 4’, 5’ and 6’.
 Most common style is a hollow core flush door, but it may also be louver, panel or mirrored.
Doors also don’t have to come from a kit; customers can choose them directly from a store’s stock of
doors.
6. Bifold Door
 A bifold door is best for closets or small rooms where an open door would interfere with
traffic.
 It uses hollow core flush, panel, mirrored or louver doors.
 A kit may include one or two pairs of doors that fold in half to open, a track and a
hardware kit.
 Doors can also come from a store’s millwork stock.
 A unit may include one pair of doors for openings up to 48” wide, and two pairs for
openings from 48” to 72” wide.
 Standard height is 6/6 (78”) to allow for the track, for a finished opening of 6’8”.

7 Louver Door
 A louver door is a stile-and-rail construction door that can be a closet door.
 The style is useful in climates where air circulation is important to prevent mold and mildew.
 Standard widths range from 1’ to 3’.
 Standard heights are 6/6 (78”) and 6/8 (80”).
2: Exterior Doors
 Customers have three basic options when choosing a door: Wood, steel or fiberglass.
Each type has its advantages.
A. Wood
 Construction: Wood doors use a stile-and-rail construction. Some wooden doors are made of
Solid wood, using either hardwood or softwood. Others have an engineered-wood core covered
with a veneer.
 Finishing: Wood doors may be finished with paint or stain.
 Maintenance: Scratches in wood doors are easy to repair. However, wood doors may crack or
Bow due to the effects of the weather.
B. Steel
 Construction: Steel doors consist of a wood or steel frame, filled with foam insulation
and covered with a steel skin. They offer good security.
 Finishing: Most have a baked-on, pre-primed finish that must be painted to prevent rust.
 Others may have a vinyl finish or a wood-fiber coating.
 Maintenance: These doors are durable and resist fire, warping and cracking and are low
 Maintenance. They are, however, prone to denting.

C. Fiberglass
 Construction: These doors consist of a wooden frame, filled with foam insulation and
covered with a molded fiberglass skin.
 Finishing: Fiberglass doors are available in a variety of finishes, including a wood grain
texture. You can also paint or stain them.
 Maintenance: Require very little maintenance, are durable, energy efficient and resist
cracking and warping due to the weather. They are a good choice for extreme climate
conditions.
D. Storm Door
 A storm door sits in front of the primary entry door to protect it from the weather,
increase energy efficiency and provide ventilation in the summer.
 Storm doors may have a lightweight stile-and-rail wooden frame or a hollow aluminum
frame.
 Some doors have a vinyl cladding over the frame.
 It has large glass panels that can be exchanged for screens, depending on the season.
 Some doors use continuous hinges running the full length of the door.
 Size is 1-1/8” thick, and height is 81”.
 Standard widths are 30”, 32” and 36”.
E. Patio Doors
 There are two types of patio doors: swinging and sliding.
 Both come in a variety of materials, including aluminum, vinyl, wood and wood-clad
doors.

 Wood clad doors are those with wooden frames but clad in vinyl, fiberglass or aluminum.
 These doors are typically sold as part of a complete entry system where the doorframe
has
 Weather stripping on the latch edge and along the top. Be aware that weather stripping on
sliding
 doors can’t seal as tightly as a swinging door.
 While these doors typically have glass, they can also have screens.
F. Swinging Patio Door

 Swinging patio door looks similar to a French door as it generally consists of two doors.
 Some configurations have three doors.
 The swinging patio door may have one active (or operating) door and one or more
inactive (or
 Fixed) doors. Or, both doors may be active.
 Swinging doors are hinged to open in the center with the active panel latched to the jamb.
 Like interior French doors, they often contain large glass panels between the stiles and
rails.
 A deadbolt can be installed on this door, making it more secure than a sliding door.
G. Sliding Patio Door

 Most sliding doors consist of two panels, one active and one inactive (or stationary).
 The active door is set on rollers that ride on a track. Rollers are components that often
wear out.
 These doors consist of either wood or aluminum frames where the frame surrounds a
single glass pane.
 Glass is tempered for safety.
H. Commercial Door
 Can be a steel or wood door, or a wood door clad in a material like aluminum.
 Uses heavy-duty hardware for extra security and durability.
 Often includes options like a crash-bar installed on the interior of the door.
 Double doors may have a removable center mullion that divide them and allow for a wide
object to be moved through the doors.

Making Door Frames

Green Ideas Tip Box
Doors and windows are difficult and complex structures made from many individual parts. It
isn’t really possible to salvage any materials from them, because the parts are too small. So it
makes sense to save them as individual units and reuse them.
Although you may often buy or salvage the actual door, it is very rare to find a door frame
suitable for stage use. They must almost always be constructed from scratch. Doors are removed
from the building during demolition, but the door frame is an integral part of the structure of the
building. New doors are often sold perching, so that the jamb or frame comes with it.
Once again, it is best to attach these parts before going on to the next batch, at least until you are
familiar with the process. After that you can save time by cutting all of the parts for all of the
doors and windows at one time. Remember to inset these pieces 1/4_ from the side of the door
jamb. Gluing is essential! The next series of parts are used to strengthen the door frame, which as
you can no doubt tell is very wobbly at the moment.

The second layer of 1/2_ ply gets laminated to the back side of the facing pieces that were just
installed.
The next procedure is to apply trim to the door frame. The trim is what will give the door its
style. Until this point, there is not much difference in the construction method used for one type
or another, excepting the basic width of the facing, which is generally larger for an ornate style.
From this point forward the process is dictated by the design provided by the scenic designer.
Here are some approaches to producing a few of the most common styles. Quite often, the clarity
(or lack thereof) of a design will leave some decisions about the exact nature of the trim to the
discretion of the technician.
The most straightforward approach is simply to band the edges of the facing with some variety of
small trim. It is amazing what even the most easily produced stock will add to the appearance of

a door. I think what is important is that there be something there to catch the light and reveal a
shadow, but the exact nature of the trim is not so important. It is generally better to use
something fairly large and rectangular around the outside edge, and a smaller, softer-edged trim
toward the inside.
The outside trim should be attached flush with the edge to create a thick slab to cover the
intersection of any baseboards or chair rails. You can locate the inner trim a small distance away
from the edge to create an extra reveal.
These trims will need to be measured and cut to fit. If they are just rectangular in cross section,
they can be left with 90-degree angles. If they have any other profile, it will be necessary to miter
cut the corners. It is easiest to cut a 45-degree end first and then to cut the 90-degree end to
length. The 90-degree angle is easier to line up in the saw. It is best to cut a piece, put it on, cut a
piece, put it on, and so forth, because it is less confusing and gives you a solid, physical position
to mark from. Marking the pieces by holding them up to the door frame is more accurate than
measuring and is less prone to mistakes.

The outer edge of the door facing is now made up of a number of layers of different materials
that are probably not exactly flush with one another. Use a belt sander to even things up a bit.
After a rough sanding, fill any large holes with joint compound, and finish by hand sanding when
the mud is dry. You will be surprised how much two or three minutes with a piece of 100-grit
sandpaper can do. Easing the corners of your woodworking even a small amount will greatly
improve the overall look of the work.
The Victorian target molding style is quite popular, especially if your theatre produces classic
American dramas. There are several ways of approaching it. The most obvious visible difference
about this style is that the corners are not mitered, but rather square blocks, also known as
targets, are used to cover the change in direction. All of the trim sections end with a 90-degree
angle. There is a target block in both of the top corners, and a plinth block at the bottom of each
side of the facing.
Making the target molds and plinth blocks is, as you would imagine, the challenging part of this
assignment. Sometimes it is possible to purchase them from a salvage yard, or to find suitable
reproductions on the internet. The target molds were originally turned on a lathe, and you can
make exact copies that way from a pattern. But it is a time-consuming task. If you have even one
example of a target you can use it to make a mold and then replicate the target using Bond, auto
body filler. Or you can use a router to simulate the carving that was formerly done on a lathe.
This simple method looks great from a distance and is very easy to put together. It uses thin
layers of 1/4_ plywood to simulate the carving detail. This is a “build up” rather than a “carve
into” process. Cut out two plates as are described in the drawing. Mount them on a block of one-
by that has been cut down to a 5″ square.
Careful sanding of the edges of the plywood will round it over and help to create the illusion that
the block is one solid piece.

Originally, the plinth blocks were made by running a long piece of stock through a shaper to get
the correct profile. That length of trim was then cut into 5-inchwide pieces to match the width of
the rest of the trim. The basic profile of a typical block calls for a trim strip at the top that sticks
out somewhat, and it is easily simulated with some half-rounds.
To vary the style a bit, you can use more than one strip of half-round, or some other trim to
increase the number of reveals. The beginning block should be the same width and thickness as
the target mold and about twice the height.
The basic run of trim between the blocks can be made either as a solid piece, or as a series of
different strips. It is best not to make this too terribly complicated. The trim should be
symmetrical from the center line. A round nose bit on a shaper table is an excellent way to create
the rounded channels.

The table saw can be used to make V grooves, and if a shaper is available, it can be used to
create beaded effects. Since the trim is symmetrical from the center, it is possible to make two
passes with each setting of the saw or router table. Just turn the board 180 degrees, and make the
second pass. Be sure to do all of the pieces of trim before readjusting the tool. Make all of the
trim you will need at one time so that all of the pieces will match. It never hurts to make a few
extras just in case.
A built-up method can also be used with these long sections of trim. Cut small strips of trim and
apply them to the facing you’ve already assembled. If you are using this method, just be creative,
but look for shapes that are in keeping with the feel of the original. The outside edges should
have a larger, squarer profile than those in the center.
Another popular type of doorway design uses a cornice molding at the top of the opening. The
basic unit can be made in the same way as previously described. A section of one-by is used
across the top as stop for the top of the cornice molding. If you let this stick out a bit, and finish
it with some half round or other trim, it will become just another part of the molding. You can
use one strip of trim at the bottom of the cornice and on other one at the top of the door opening.
If you would like for the cornice to be very large and grand, it is possible to build up the
thickness of the top of the facing to increase its scale.

Exotic Shapes
If a rounded top is required for the door, the frame design must be modified a bit, but the basic
concept remains the same.
This style is easier to build if you begin by cutting out the facing first. Suppose that the width of
the facing is to be 4″, and the door itself is to be 2′-6″ wide. It is of standard height, and the arch
is Romanesque. Here is a drawing for the face frame showing how the parts fit together. The
inside of the frame should be 2′-7″, which is large enough to accommodate a bent plywood
reveal around the inside edge of the frame, with 1/4_added to ease door installation. You can
mark the pattern on a sheet of plywood. If the size of the door is very large, it might make more
sense to divide the arc into smaller pieces. This will save on materials.

The straight part of the jamb can be cut to length from 3/4x× 31/ 2stock. Measure the length from
the bottom of the facing to the point where the curve begins. Subtract 1/2_ for the thickness of
the threshold. The jamb and side facings can be glued and nailed together, along with the
threshold.
The second layer of facing should be cut so that the joints fall at a different place in order to
create a solid, laminated structure. Make the width of the back layer3/4_ smaller than the first
one where the jamb is in place, but make it run all the way side to side along the part of the curve
where you don’t yet have a jamb.
Straight part as well. Bending plywood is made so that the grain in most of the plies is oriented in
the same direction. As a result, it is not nearly as strong as regular plywood, but it is extremely
flexible.
Cut two pieces of bending lauan to fit into the remaining gaps at the bottom of the door jamb.
Glue and nail them into place. This completes the basic frame. If you feel that the unit needs to
be stronger, add another layer of bending lauan to the outside of the curve, or use some small
blocks to beef it up around the top where the bending lauan is unsupported. If you use support
blocks on the back side, you will need to leave space for them in the rough opening you have in
the wall.
If a door stop is required, rip down a couple of 1 1/4_wide strips of the bending lauan and attach
them in thenormal way. Using the bending lauan will make it possible to match the curve.
If trim is required around the outside edge of the face frame, it can be made from Ethafoam rod
ripped in half or quartered on the band saw.
Perhaps your plans call for a stone archway. You can create that effect by covering the facing
with a thin layer of polystyrene foam. Mark divisions on the foam to represent the stone
segments and carve out the blocks.

The resulting frame is considerably taller than a nor mal opening.
Here is a plan for construction of a door that must fit under a stairway and that is consequently
slanted on the top. Perhaps it would work for The Foreigner, or Something’s Afoot, or Noises
Off. This door has a slant of 45 degrees, but the angle can be easily altered to fit a specific
stairway.
Making the Doors

It is easier and less expensive to purchase doors than to make them yourself. Many panel door
reproductions made from shaped hardboard with a hollow core are available. They are
lightweight and inexpensive. Stage doors are generally meant to be painted, even if that means
painting on a wood grain effect, so the fact that the doors are made of hardboard is not a
problem. Architectural salvage yards are generally full of doors that have been removed from

razed structures. There are times, however, when specific types of doors must be made in the
shop, because the design calls for something unique.
Windows
Window techniques are very similar to those used in the construction of doors. The basic idea is
to put together a frame that will fit into a rough opening in a wall made of flats. The rough
opening should be enough larger than the insert so that the window will fit in easily.
Maintaining a Historic Door and window
Because a historic door is typically of robust wood construction and is often sheltered by a
porch, it tends to be durable and long-lasting. Most problems that occur result from a lack of
maintenance and from swelling and warping due to seasonal changes. A door may also be worn
and sagging because of weathering and constant use. As a result, some historic doors do not
properly fit the door frame, allowing moisture and air into the house.
Water, heat and the ultra-violet rays from sunlight are major causes of deterioration.
Condensation during winter months also can cause problems with glass panels and sashes on
doors. Damage occurs when the painted or finished layer is cracked or peeling. Decay may make
operation of the door difficult and, if left untreated, can result in significant deterioration of door
components. In most cases, doors are not susceptible to damage if a good coat of paint or varnish
is maintained.
Repairing a Historic Door
Repairing a historic door is preferred to replacing it, thereby retaining a character-defining
feature and an important aspect of the building’s integrity. Repair is also usually much less
expensive than replacement and retains the quality and the craftsmanship of the original, which
with minimal maintenance will last indefinitely. In many cases a historic door merely needs to be
re-hung. Even when replaced with an exact duplicate door, a portion of the historic building
fabric is lost. Such treatment should be avoided. When deciding whether to repair or replace a
historic door, consider the following:

First
Determine the door’s architectural significance. Is it a key character-defining element of the

building? Is the front door visible on the primary facade? Is the design of the historic door
indicative of the architectural style or type of the house? If the answer to one or more of these
questions is “yes,” then preservation is the best approach. A door in an obscure location or on the
rear of a structure may not be considered a prominent feature of the house. Thus, greater
flexibility exists in the treatment or replacement of such doors.
Second
Inspect the door to determine its condition. Is the door hanging wrong or does it lack proper
hardware and framing components to make it functional? If so, replacing these elements is
appropriate. Check the door to see that it opens and closes smoothly and that it fits in its jamb.
Some problems may be superficial ones, such as peeling paint, deteriorated detailing or broken
sashes. These are issues that can be remedied without altering the historic character.
Third
Determine the appropriate treatment for the door. In many cases the door may not fit the door
jamb or threshold as it should. In this case the hinges and the threshold of the door should be
tightened or refit to allow smooth opening and closing of the door. Surfaces may require cleaning
and patching. Some components may be deteriorated beyond repair. Patching and splicing in
new material for only those portions that are decayed should be considered in such a case, rather
than replacing the entire door. If the entire door must be replaced, the new one should match the
original in its general appearance and should be in character with the building style. When
rehabilitating a historic doorway it is important to maintain original doors, jambs, transoms,
window panes and hardware where feasible, even if the door itself is replaced.
Replacement Doors
While replacing an entire door assembly is discouraged, it may be necessary in some cases.
When a door is to be replaced, the new one should match the appearance of the original. In
replacing a door, one should be careful to retain the original door opening location, door size and
door shape. In addition, one should consider the design of the door, choosing a replacement that
is compatible with the style and type of the house.
A frequent concern is the material of the replacement door. In general, using the same material as
the original is preferred. If the historic door was wood, then using a wood replacement is the best
approach.
Finally, when replacing a historic door, it is important to preserve the original door frame when
feasible. This is important in keeping the size and configuration of the original door.

Welding procedure
Prepare welding materials
Safety
SMAW welding like other welding method can be dangerous & unhealthy practice if proper
precautions are not taken.
 Protected yourself and other from potential hazard include:
- Arc ray - noise
- Electric shock - hot objects
- Fire and explosion hazards
 Arc ray can injure eyes & burn skin. b/c of
- The welding arc is brighter than the sun.
- Precaution must be taken to protect your eyes & skin from UV radiation.
- wear correct eye & body protection
- Welding sparks can cause fire and explosion.
 Welders must wear protection clothing for:
- protection from sparks, spatter & UV radiation, electric shock with welding glove,
jackets, apron, welding cap, helmet and safety glasses & ear protection (ear plug.)
Welding
 A joining process that produces a coalescence of metals (or nonmetals) by heating them
to the welding temperature,
• with or without the application of pressure, or by pressure alone, and
• with or without the use of filler metals
It is types of welding process in w/c the heat obtained from electric arc b/n the work
metal an electrode.
Welding of specific material
Material Carbon contain Welded remark
Low carbon steel 0.15 max Good
Mild steel 0.15-0.3 Good to excellent

Medium carbon steel 0.3-0.5 fair
High carbon steel 0.5-1.0 poor

Filler Material: When welding two pieces of metal together, we often have to leave a space
between the joint. The material that is added to fill this space during the welding process is
known as the filler material (or filler metal). Two types of filler metals are commonly used in
welding are welding rods and welding electrodes.
 Welding Rod: The term welding rod refers to a form of filler metal that does not conduct
an electric current during the welding process. Welding rod is to supply filler metal to the
joint. This type of filler metal is often used for gas welding.
 Electrode: In electric-arc welding, the term electrode refers to the component that
conducts the current from the electrode holder to the metal being welded. Electrodes are
classified into two groups: consumable and non-consumable.
 Consumable electrodes not only provide a path for the current but them also
supply filler metal to the joint. An example is the electrode used in shielded
metal-arc welding.
 Non-consumable electrodes are only used as a conductor for the electrical
current, such as in gas tungsten arc welding. The filler metal for gas tungsten arc
welding is a hand fed consumable welding rod.
Flux: Before performing any welding process, the base metal must be cleaned form impurities
such as oxides (rust). Unless these oxides are removed by using a proper flux, a faulty weld may
result. The term flux refers to a material used to dissolve oxides and release trapped gases and
slag (impurities) from the base metal such that the filler metal and the base metal can be fused
together. Fluxes come in the form of a paste, powder, or liquid. Different types of fluxes are
available and the selection of appropriate flux is usually based on the type of welding and the
type of the base metal.
How is metal prepared for welding?
 One of the most important and most often neglected parts of the welding job is
preparation of the metal for welding.
A. The metal must be free of dirt, grease, rust, paint, or other impurities which may combine
with a molten weld bead and cause it to be weakened.
Metal should be cleaned by grinding, brushing, filing, or cutting before welding.

B. Preparing the correct type of joint for each kind of metal is essential to safe strong welded
structures.Thebasictypesofjointsarethebutt, lap, tee, corner, and andedge.
Prepare equipment for welding
Equipment & Operation - One reason for the wide acceptance of the SMAW process is the
simplicity of the necessary equipment. The equipment consists of the following items. (See
Figure below)
1. Welding power source 2. Electrode holder
3. Ground clamp
4. Welding cables and connectors
5. Accessory equipment (chipping hammer, wire brush)
6. Protective equipment (helmet, gloves, etc.)
Welding Power Sources - Shielded metal arc welding may utilize either alternating current
(AC) or direct current (DC), but in either case, the power source selected must be of the constant
current type. This type of power source will deliver a relatively constant amperage or welding
current regardless of arc length variations by the operator. The amperage determines the amount
of heat at the arc and since it will remain relatively constant, the weld beads produced will be
uniform in size and shape. Whether to use an AC, DC, or AC/DC power source depends on the
type of welding to be done and the electrodes used. The following factors should be considered:
Electrode Selection - Using a DC power source allows the use of a greater range of electrode
types. While most of the electrodes are designed to be used on AC or DC, some will work
properly only on DC.
Metal Thickness - DC power sources may be used for welding both heavy sections and light
gauge work. Sheet metal is more easily welded with DC because it is easier to strike and
maintain the DC arc at low currents.
Welding Position - Because DC may be operated at lower welding currents, it is more suitable
for overhead and vertical welding than AC. AC can successfully be used for out-of-position
work if proper electrodes are selected.

Perform routine welding

Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW): A process that uses a coated consumable electrode to lay
the weld. As the electrode melts, the (flux) coating disintegrates, giving off shielding gases that
protect the weld area from atmospheric gases and provides molten slag which covers the filler
metal as it travels from the electrode to the weld pool.
Types of welding joints

Lap joint the lap joint is obtained by over lapping the part &welding the edge of the plates these
joint are employed plate having thickness than 3mm
Butt joint the butt joint obtained by welding the end of edges of two pieces the thickness of the
plate is less than 5mm
Corner joint the corner joint is obtained by joining the edge of two plates. Whose surfaces are at
angle approximately 90.
T-joint is obtained by joining two plate whose surface are approximately aright angle to each
other.
Edge joint is obtained by joining two parallel plates it is economical for plate having thickness
less than 6mm.

There are four positions used when welding

Flat position, if at all possible, because gravity draws the molten metal downward into the joint
making the welding faster and easier. The filler metal deposited from the upper side of the joint
with the face of the weld.
Horizontal welding is a little more difficult, because the molten metal tends to sag/drop or flow
downhill onto the lower plate. The weld is deposited up on side of an horizontal &against a
vertical surfaces.
Vertical welding is done in a vertical line, usually from bottom to top; however, on thin material
downhill or down hand welding may be easier. The line welding is vertical plane& the weld is
deposited up on a vertical surfaces.
The overhead position is the most difficult position. Because the weld metal flows downward,
this position requires considerable practice on your part to produce good quality welds.
In this position the welded is deposited from the under size of the joint to that face of the weld.

INCREASING DIFFICULTY
FLAT
HORIZONTAL
OVERHE
VERTICAL
Basic Steps of Arc Welding

 Prepare the base materials: remove paint and rust
 Choose the right welding process

 Choose the right filler material
 Assess and comply with safety requirements
 Use proper welding techniques and be sure to protect the molten puddle from
contaminants in the air
 Inspect the weld
Design Process
Design process can be achieved by relying on new design methods and with the help of computer
programs like AutoCAD. The advantage of using these options when designing these product
variants is the speed of manufacturing and time to market and the result is reduction of cost
production. The overall process of design, from beginning to end, is defined in following figure.
The process begins with identification of need and then making the decision. After much
iteration, the process ends with the presentation of the project which fulfils the request.
Design of each part Example of window and door preparation
Many types of window and door but some design of Pro-E is parametric integrated 3D CAD
solution created by Parametric Technology Corporation (PTC). It provides solid modeling,
assembly modeling and drafting, finite element analysis, direct and parametric modeling. It is
more user friendly than any other CAD software for solid modeling. Hence we decided to carry
out the designing of our window and door in Pro-E CAD software. While designing there are
various processes which described below every part design figure.
1. DOOR sample drawing




2. WINDOW sample drawing



Table 1.raw materials
No Item Specificatio Unit Quantity Unit Total price
n price(birr)
1. paper A4 desta 1 190 190
2 Hard cover Slandered pcs 3 10 10
Total 200 birr
Table 2 Tools & Equipments

No. equipment Specification Unit Quantity Rem.
1 Computer with autocad dell pcs 1
The Total cost of product

• raw material cost= 200 birr
Material cost = raw material cost +standard material cost+ consumable material cost
• Material cost = 200
Selling price =200 birr

Table 3 schedule
Time Available
No Required activity month
. octo nov dec juan feb mar may jun
1 Brainstorming ideas
2 Selection of the final project
3 Preparation of drift project proposal
4 drift project proposal Presentation
5 Finalizing drift project proposal
6 Preparation project proposal such as
Literature ,drawing etc.
7 Material requesting and purchasing
8 Inspection and checking of materials
9 Square PIPE Sheet &cutting
operation
10 Mild steel and aluminium sheet cutting
for all parts
11 Machining operation such as facing ,
turning , drilling and boring operations
12 Assembling all components using arc
welding
13 Testing and evaluation
14 Coating and Panting
15 Check and inspection
16 Distribute to the enterprise

Reference
Hensley, Jo Ellen and Aguilar, Antonio. Preservation Briefs 3: Improving Energy Efficiency in
Historic Buildings. Washington, DC: Technical Preservation Services Division, National Park
Service, US Department of the Interior. 2011
http://www.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve/briefs/3-improve-energy-efficiency.htm
Inappropriate Replacement Doors. Washington, DC: Technical Preservation Services, National

Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1999.
www.nps.gov/tps/standards/applying-rehabilitation/its-bulletins/ITS04-Doors-Replacement.pdf

Modern Door and Window Preparation

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WOGELTENA TVET COLLEGE

Department of Manufacturing Technology

PROJECTPROPOSAL: - MODERN DOOR’S AND WINDOWS PREPARATION INFO

PREPARED By: - MOLLA DESALEW

WOGELTENA, WOLLO, ETHIOPIA

JUN 2013 E.C

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1.2 Statement of the Problem

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1.3.2. Specific Objective

1.4 Significance of the Project

1.5 Scope of the Project

1.6 Feasibility Study

1.6.2 Operational Feasibility

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2.1 The History and Craftsmanship of Steel Windows and Doors

2.1.1 What gives steel its strength?

2.1.2 Steel production dates back to 1800 BC

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2.1.4 Aluminum windows rose post-war, but now steel is back

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cost analayisis d esign

The controlling Not understand

cost analayisis design

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cost analayisis design

2. 5. FACTS AND FIGURES

Provide proper window and

Reduce expensive material and

Substituting importing product

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3.1.1.2 Understanding Window Efficiency

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3.1.2 Types of Windows

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Type 2: Combination Windows

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3.1.2 Types of Doors

 Solid doors are heavy and soundproof.

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Solid core doors

1 Interior Panel Door

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F. Swinging Patio Door

G. Sliding Patio Door

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Making Door Frames

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