Professional Documents
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ShopNotes 124
ShopNotes 124
Exclusive: 20
ANNIVERSARY
1992-2012
th
Departments
Readers’ Tips _____________________ 4
router workshop
Super-Strong Edge Joints ____________ 8
Learn all about the router bits you can use to
Strong Edge Joints page 8 create never-fail edge joints.
jigs & accessories
Q&A ____________________________ 50
This symbol lets you know
there’s more information
Sources __________________________ 51 available online at
ShopNotes.com
ShopNotes.com 3
Tips for
Your Shop
Stow-Away Sawhorses
Sawhorses come in handy for a is most sawhorses are bulky To secure the assembly,
number of tasks in my shop and and difficult to store. I added a long bolt with
E
TH ER! around the house. So I always like In an effort to build a better a press-on knob to each
NN
WI to keep a pair ready for whatever sawhorse, I came up with the end of the sawhorse.
may come up next. The problem ones you see above. What makes The bolts fit through a
them stand out is they quickly hole drilled in the brackets and
36 break down into individual sec- into a threaded insert in the
7!/4 tions for storage. ends of the stretcher.
STRETCHER The key to the design is a The sawhorses can be built in
(1!/2" x 7!/4" - 36")
NOTE: SECURE
stretcher that slides in place almost no time. And using stan-
INSERTS IN 4!/2 between the top of both legs and dard “two-by” material helps
STRETCHER ENDS 2
WITH EPOXY rests on two plywood brackets. keep the costs down.
William Sincavage
%/16"-18 Oswego, New York
BLOCK THREADED
LEG (1!/2" x 3" - 6") INSERT
(1!/2" x 3!/2" - 30")
%/16"-18 x 4!/2"
BRACKET HEX HEAD BOLT 15°
WITH PRESS-FIT
KNOB
3!/4
4#/4
75°
7!/4
#8 x 2" Fh
WOODSCREW
ShopNotes.com 5
Quick Tips
{ When trimming thin strips, Vernon { Serge Duclos of Delson, Québec, { Jack Gill of Warsaw, MO, reuses empty
Sandusky of Vacaville, CA, uses keeps his router bits and accessories ketchup bottles for glue. The valve on the
painter’s tape to make an instant neatly organized and accessible in a bottle keeps the glue from clogging and
zero-clearance insert. kitchen utensil drawer tray. from coming out until squeezed.
#8 x 2" Fh
WOODSCREW
BASE
FOOT
BASE
(12" x 96"- #/4" Ply.)
b. FRONT VIEW
CLEAT
(1" x 96"- #/4" Ply.)
FREE TIPS
BY EMAIL
Now you can have the NOTE: FEET #/4"- DIA.
ARE SPACED 16" HOLE
best time-saving secrets, ON CENTER
solutions, and techniques CLEAT PREVENTS
PLYWOOD FROM
sent directly to your email SLIDING FORWARD
inbox. Just go to
ShopNotes.com
and click on
“Sign Up for Free eTips” FOOT
(1!/2" x 3!/2" - 12")
You’ll receive a new tip by
email each week.
ShopNotes.com 7
ROUTER
Workshop
router table
Edge
Joints
Create strong and stable
edge joints that align
perfectly every time.
It’s not uncommon for a project require two or more boards materials like plastic laminate
to call for a large panel that is glued together edge to edge. work just as well.
wider than any board you can There are several ways to join Finger Joint. A finger joint bit
find at the lumberyard. Table these pieces, from a simple butt creates a series of small fingers
tops and cutting boards come joint to multi-fingered, interlock- that maximize the glue surface of
to mind. These projects often ing connections. Each approach the connection. For this reason,
can create a strong joint. And finger joints are often used when
with the right bit and technique, connecting boards end to end.
} Glue Joint. Save tim time
me they can all be accomplished with When using a finger joint bit,
by jointing and cutting aan a router. I’ll walk you through the it’s best to make the cut in mul-
interlocking profile in options so you can decide which tiple passes, adjusting the fence
one pas
pass.
ss. to use on your next project. between each pass. Unlike the glue
One of the keys to making a joint bit, it has a bearing so it’s easy
strong joint is to maximize the to set the fence for the final cut.
gluing surface. A simple way For both bits, you want to set
Glue
G
Joint Bit
Jo
Joint to accomplish this is by creat- the bit height so the interlocking
ing interlocking fingers that section is perfectly centered on
extend across the joint. Two bits the workpiece. This allows you to
designed to do exactly that are cut both sides of the joint without
the glue joint bit and the finger adjusting the bit height. Just flip
joint bit (photos at left). the mating workpiece end-for-
} Finger Joint. Multiple Glue Joint. The glue joint bit end so the opposite side of the
fingers span the joint is unique in that it will both joint workpiece faces up.
creating a strong the edge of your workpiece and Tongue & Groove. One of the
connection. cut the profile in one pass. But to most common methods for join-
do this, you need to offset your ing workpieces edge to edge is
outfeed fence to account for the with a tongue and groove joint.
Finger
F material removed. You can see This strong but simple joint is
Joint
oint Bit
Jo that I used a thin sheet of brass in easy to make and works well
the main photo above, but other for almost any application.
router table
Jointing
Sp l
Spiral
B
Bit
ShopNotes.com 9
shop-made
Custom Dowels
Create precise round stock from any wood
species you want with these easy-to-use tools.
As woodworkers, we generally body of the Dowel Maker con- A square socket drive (left
feel proud when we can look at a tains two blades that can be margin photo) comes with the
finished project knowing that each resharpened after repeated use. Dowel Maker and is used with a
component
compon started out as a raw One blade is for rough cutting hand drill to turn and guide your
piece of lumber. When it comes to the workpiece to shape, and one blank stock past the blades. The
dowels,
dowels though, we often just pur- is for the final, finish cut. Each photo above shows it in action.
chase whatever
w is available at our blade also has a micro-adjuster Once you have the cutting
local supplier. for fine-tuning the cut. depth of the blades dialed in,
The trouble is that dow-
els are rarely sized accurately. Finish-cut DOWEL MAKER
And they
th generally only come in blade Micro-
limited,
limited domestic wood species. adjusters
There are
a options available, how-
ever, for
fo making your own dow- Aluminum
{ Square Socket. els. I’ll show you a couple from insert
Drive your Veritas that I’ve used, plus a tradi-
workpieces with tional tool from Lie-Nielsen.
Guide
confidence with
these specially VERITAS DOWEL MAKER bushings
designed sockets. When it comes to versatility, the
Veritas Dowel Maker (photo at
right) has no rival. It’s capable of Rough-
making dowels in any diameter cut blade
from 1⁄4" to 1". The precision-cast
making dowels is straightfor- dowel size and feed it through slightly smaller than
an the nominal
ward. Prepare your blank by cut- the cutter using a square socket size of the cutter, you can use the
ting it square and slightly over- chucked in a power drill. included hex wrench to adjust
sized. Then insert the end of the The curved blade of the cutter the blade depth.
blank into the square socket. Use leaves a nice, smooth finish on Either of these solutions can
your drill to slowly feed the blank the resulting dowel. And these open up new possibilities for
through the center of the unit. blades can also be resharpened making custom-made, accu-
You can make dowels of any as needed. For best results, feed rately sized dowels. For informa-
length, but the finished end the stock through the unit slowly. tion on where to buy these tools,
may have a tendency to “whip” If you need to make a dowel see Sources on page 51.
around once it gets long. A good
solution to minimize this is to use
a V-block as shown in the main simple but effective
photo on the opposite page.
For $195 you get the Dowel
Maker and guide bushings
Dowel Plate
for making 15⁄16" or 1" dowels.
Additional inserts are available The tried-and-true method
for other sizes. of making short dowels has
always been with a dowel
VERITAS DOWEL CUTTERS plate. This tool is nothing
Another great option for mak- more than a steel plate with a
ing accurately sized dowels is series of different sized holes. Square Stock,
the Veritas Dowel Cutter ($28.50 The one shown here is Round Hole. With a
each). Shown in the photo in the from Lie-Nielsen and is easy to mallet and little bit of
upper right corner, these cut- mount to a plywood base. To work, you can turn
ters are quick to set up and easy use it, center the hole for the your rough stock
to use. Three different sizes are size dowel you need over a into perfectly sized
available. Each one is designed dog hole in your bench. dowels.
for making a dowel to a specific With the base clamped to
size (3⁄8", 7⁄16", or 1⁄2"). the bench, drive a rough-
The method for making the shaped blank through the hole
dowels and the end result is the with firm blows from a mallet.
same as with the Dowel Maker. You’ll be surprised how easy
You start with a square blank cut and effective this method is
slightly larger than your finished for making short dowels.
ShopNotes.com 11
CUP
DISTANCE CUP
(C) DISTANCE PLATE
PLATE (C) HEIGHT
HEIGHT (H)
(H)
CABINET CABINET
SIDE SIDE
DOOR
CL DOOR CL
CL CL
OVERLAY CL
CL
INSET CL
CL
SETBACK
(INCLUDES
APPLICATION SETBACK APPLICATION DOOR
THICKNESS)
That’s why a lot of cabinet shops For overlay doors, the shorter this also plays a part in the
just order half-crank hinges in the plate, the more the door over- amount of overlay or inset.
bulk instead of several different laps the cabinet side. And there’s Boiling It Down. Manufactur-
9mm
types. With the right mounting a fixed setback dimension for ers give you a lot of resources for
Mounting
plate and a few key dimensions, locating the mounting plate on figuring out all of these parame- Plate
you can determine how much the inside of the cabinet. When ters. Their catalogs and web sites
ites
the door overlaps the cabinet. installing the plates for inset are worth a look, but can stilll be
For inset doors, these parameters doors, you also need to factor in a bit overwhelming. While retail-
tail-
control the amount of gap, or the thickness of the door, as in the ers try to help by packaging pairs
airs
reveal, around the door. upper right drawing. of hinges with specific mounting
ting
Mounting Plates. Mounting Cup Center. The final factor to plates, I like to order these parts
arts
plates are available in a range of consider is the distance is from in bulk for more versatility. (See
See
ee
heights from 0 to 13mm. A couple the edge of the door to the center Sources on page 51.)
are shown in the right margin. of the hinge cup. As I mentioned, Since all this may seem confus-
fuus-
us
ing, I’ve provided some help. Thehe
charts and illustrations above ve
installing hinges on will give you all the pertinent nt
information for some common on
Face Frames door applications.
Each chart gives you the he 0mm
You can take advantage of cup distance and plate height Mounting
all the features of concealed depending on the amount of Plate
hinges on cabinets with face overlay or inset gap desired.
frames. All you need to do is Looking at the left chart above,
FACE SPACER
FRAME BLOCK install a spacer block behind you can see that for a 1⁄4" overlay,
the mounting plate, as you for example, you would choose a
can see at left. 0mm plate. And the centerpoint
When making the spacer, of the cup hole would be 7⁄8" in
you’ll want it to flush out with from the edge of the door.
the edge of the face frame. This To ensure everything works
way, you can treat the installa- as planned, install the hinges on
tion the same as you would a couple of scraps of plywood.
DOOR
SPACER FLUSH a frameless cabinet. Then lay Pretend one is the door and the
WITH INSIDE EDGE out the centerlines and fasten other is the cabinet side. It’s an
OF FACE FRAME
the plate in place. easy way to check dimensions.
ShopNotes.com 13
Hinges
Hole location varies Stile
One of the great benefits that depending on amount
comes from using concealed of door overlay
hinges is that they’re easy to
install and adjust. Careful lay-
out, easy setup, and simple tech-
niques yield professional results. Center line
There’s one thing I need to
mention. Since most concealed
hinges are made in Europe, you’ll Rail
find most dimensions are metric.
So you have a choice: Either pur-
chase a metric rule or be ready to
do a little math conversion.
{ Drilling the Cup Holes. A 35mm Forstner bit is the tool of choice
INSTALLING THE HINGE for drilling the hole for the hinge cup. Use the fence for a consistent
When installing concealed setback distance from the edge of the door.
hinges, I like to start with the
door. This way, the hinges will no hard and fast rule. For most The setup at the drill press
help you precisely locate the applications, I’ll locate the center is pretty simple. Use a fence to
mounting plates in the cabinet. of the cup hole 3" from the top locate the bit over the center lay-
Layout. The guidelines on and bottom door edges. Then, out lines for the holes. The photo
the previous page should give use an awl to mark the hole cen- above shows what I mean. Just
you all the dimensions you need ters to help positon the drill bit. align the spur of the drill bit with
for drilling the cup hole for the At the Drill Press. To drill the centerpoint and then lock the
hinge. I set my combination the cup hole, it’s best to invest fence in position.
square to the setback distance in a 35mm Forstner bit. It’s When drilling the hole, you’re
from the edge of the door and likely you’ll be drilling a lot of aiming for a depth of 1⁄2". To
scribe a line parallel to the edge. holes with this bit, so the mod- make this determination, you
For locating the cup hole ver- est investment is worth it. I use a can measure from the tip of the
tically on the door’s stile, there’s carbide bit for longer life. cutting edge on the drill bit and
{ Square, then Drill. After { Mounting Plate. Mark cen- { Attaching the Plate. Align
squaring up the hinge plate, terlines for the vertical location the screw holes with the layout
drill using a self-centering bit. and setback from the edge. lines to drill and fasten the plate.
MOUNTING PLATE
Now you can turn your attention FRONT
TO
to installing the mounting plate HORIZONTAL BACK VERTICAL
inside the cabinet. As before, tak-
ing the time for careful measur-
ing and layout really pays off. overlay (or gap) when the door is tool of choice once again for lay-
Vertical Position. When it installed on the cabinet. ing out these centerlines.
comes to locating the mounting The Setback. For overlay Installation. To install the
plates on the side of the cabinet, doors, the setback distance from mounting plate, center the screw
the goal is for the plates to line up the front edge of the cabinet is holes over your layout lines.
perfectly with the hinges you just already determined by the man- Then drill the pilot holes with
installed on the door. But rather ufacturer. For the Blum hinges, the self-centering bit and install
than measure from the top and this distance is 37mm (or 115⁄32"). the screws. Finally, you can clip
bottom of the cabinet opening For an inset door, this setback the hinges onto the plate and
to position the mounting plates, distance is 38mm (11⁄2") plus make final adjustments as shown
I like to measure from the cen- the thickness of your door. This above. It’s really quick and easy
terpoint out. This guarantees means that for a 3⁄4"-thick door, to do. With a few minor tweaks,
that the door will be centered in the total setback distance is 21⁄4". you can align the door perfectly
the opening and leaves an even The combination io square is the for a professional look.
Expanding Gripping
time-saving dowels cams
Hinges
Professional cabinetmakers have been using con- Bottom Bottom
cealed hinges for years. To speed up production, tion, View View
they don’t mess around with wood screws. They
use one of the two types of hinges shown at right.
ght.
The first hinge looks like a standard hinge with
wood screws. But the bottom side reveals the secret
to its speedy installation. Expandable dowels fit into
predrilled holes where the screws would normally
be installed. A quick twist of the screw expands the
dowel to lock the hinge in place.
The second type of hinge does away with screws
altogether. You still need to predrill the holes,
though. Two dimples on the bottom of the hinge
rest in the holes to keep the hinge from twisting. { Blum Expando. Insert the { Blum Inserta. Press the
Then simply press down on the upper plate to hinge, then tighten the screws hinged plate to extend a pair of
expand two cams that grip the sides of the cup hole. to expand the dowels. cams for a strong, secure grip.
ShopNotes.com 15
variably spaced
Finger Joint Jig
The flexibility of this unique jig makes it easy to add
eye-catching elements to your next project.
The right detail can really turn a ho-hum project top to the bottom. This made it difficult to use a
into something special. But these details can also typical finger joint jig. You can see the completed
create a challenge when trying to execute the idea. joint in the photo on the opposite page.
The problem is that when you step out of the norm To ensure that both halves of the joint fit
of typical furniture design, you have to establish together perfectly, I designed the jig you see
new methods for realizing your vision. above. The simple design creates a hassle-free
That was the case with an end table I recently setup for perfectly sized and aligned joints. The
designed and built. The style of the drawer front keys on top of the jig are sized to match the fingers
called for finger joints. But instead of all the fingers of the joint, ensuring a perfect fit. And there’s only
being the same size, they varied in size from the one setup to complete both sides of the joint.
#/8
D #6 x #/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
D MAIN
BLOCK
BACKER PLATE
(4" x 12" - !/4" Hdbd.)
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW BASE END VIEW
ShopNotes.com 17
PROVIDES SUPPORT
FOR ROUTER BASE NOTE: KEYS ARE
!/2" HARDWOOD
&/8 KEY
(&/8" X 4!/4")
F
a.
KEY MUST
REGISTER FLUSH EXTRA
TOP
AGAINST END STOP KEY G VIEW
G E
1!/8 KEY
(1!/8" X 4!/4") F
E
%/8 KEY KEY
(%/8" X 4!/4") 1!/8
G
KEY &/8 CL
F
%/8 KEY
E
NOTE: WIDTH OF 1!/2
KEYS IS DETERMINED
BY PROJECT NEEDS
b. END VIEW
&/8
&/8 tional keys to the jig. These keys
&/8
%/8
&/8
router base.
You’ll use both sides of the jig
%/8
%/8
to make the joints, but it doesn’t
matter which you cut first. So go
NOTE: MARK FINGER AND NOTCH
LOCATIONS ON EACH WORKPIECE ahead and clamp the base of the
jig to the edge of your workbench.
ShopNotes.com 19
steam-age
Shop Clock
Combine common materials and a unique finishing
technique to create a one-of-a-kind timepiece.
20 ShopNotes No. 124
CLOCK IS MOUNTED
ON A SELF-LEVELING
“SAWTOOTH” HANGER
CLOCK USES
AN INEXPENSIVE
QUARTZ MOVEMENT
HANDS AND
HOUR RIVETS ARE
PAINTED BLACK
FOR CONTRAST
CORNER BOLTS
ARE MADE FROM
THREADED ROD } Welding & Rust. You can create
NOTE: FOR PAINT COLOR, AND SQUARE NUTS
this industrial look by using paint,
TURN TO PAGE 51
stain, and ordinary latex caulk.
ShopNotes.com 21
13
This clock is labeled as a “week-
end project,” but the truth is
you can probably finish it in less REAR FACE
than a day. In fact, you’re likely A
to spend more time waiting for
things to dry than actually mak- !/8"
ROUNDOVER
ing and assembling the clock.
There are just a handful of
parts needed to build the clock. 12#/4
It consists of two layers to make
a built-up face. From there, some DRILL
CORNER HOLES
simple details are added to cre- 12#/4 AFTER GLUING
FACES TOGETHER
ate the look of iron work. Finally,
NOTE:
an easy-to-master finishing tech- CLOCK FACES ARE B
!/4" HARDBOARD FRONT FACE
nique gives the clock its aged,
rusted appearance.
Two Faces. I began by cutting drill press, I drilled the holes to Big Bolts. The four large cor-
two hardboard panels for the accept button screw plugs. ner bolts are the next pieces to
face, as shown in Figure 1. On the Once the holes were drilled, add. Each bolt is made from a
slightly smaller, rear face, I used I cut out the center. (You can use square nut and a short piece of
the pattern below to lay out the either a scroll saw or a jig saw.) Cut 3⁄ " threaded rod, as you can see
4
center hole for the clock move- just to the waste side of the layout in Figure 2. The nuts are glued to
ment, the holes for the hours, and line. Then sand the edge smooth. the clock face with epoxy.
an inner set of four rivet holes. I also softened the upper edge by There’s one other part to add at
Work on the front face starts sanding a small roundover. this time. And that’s the hanger
To download free with laying out a set of 24 rivet Assembly. At this point, you block and sawtooth hanger on
patterns for the holes. Here again, a paper pat- can glue the two faces together. the back, as in Figure 2a.
clock faces, go to: tern makes this step really sim- Take care to keep them aligned The construction of the clock
ShopNotes.com ple. Then I marked a circle just and make sure the rear face is is complete. What happens now
inside this set of holes. At the centered for an even inset. is to add a few decorative details
&/8 !/4"-DIA. 1
HOLE
#/4"-DIA.
HOLE
#/8"-DIA.
HOLE 5&/8
4#/4
REAR FRONT
!/4"-DIA.
HOLE 1!/2 FACE 5!/4"-RAD. FACE
1!/2
%/16"-DIA.
HOLE
15°
30°
1!/2
SQUARE NUT
IS !/8"
PROUD OF
THREADED
ROD
SMALL
HANGER BLOCK BUTTON
(#/4" x 1" - 3")
SAWTOOTH
C HANGER
CL CAULK
HANGER
#/4"-10 x 2" BLOCK
THREADED ROD
SAWTOOTH LARGE
HANGER BUTTON
NOTE: ATTACH MOVEMENT
AFTER PAINTING CLOCK
and get started on creating the of paint on the front and back of the following steps. Then brush
“rusty steel” finish. the clock. While that’s drying, I on a coat of cherry stain and wipe
Welding. The first detail is spray painted the buttons used to most of it off. How much of the
adding “welded” seams. You can mark the hours black. Then you stain you leave on (and where) is
see just how easy this is by taking can glue these plugs in place on determined by the amount of rust
a look at the box below. the rear face. you want. A final coat of clear fin-
Rivets & Paint. After the caulk Instant Rust. The clock now ish completes the look.
sets up, you can work on the next looks like freshly painted steel. Finally, I painted the hands of
detail — the rivets. These are But I wanted it to look like it’s the clock to match the hour riv-
nothing more than wood button been around a while. So I added ets. Then the movement can be
plugs that normally cover up some stain to create the appear- installed. After installing the bat-
screws. For now, just glue in the ance of rust. To do this, begin by tery and setting the time, you can
1⁄ "-diameter plugs. Then spray applying a coat of clear finish to find a place in your shop to show
4
a coat of primer and finish coat the clock. This seals the paint for off your latest creation.
ShopNotes.com 23
all-in-one
Rotary Tool Cabinet
This handy shop fixture makes it easy to both
organize and use a rotary tool and its accessories.
I’ve used a rotary tool (like a Dremel) for years. But What’s really useful is the dust-collection box
there was never an easy way to store all the accesso- below. It stores like a “drawer” but features a per-
ries while keeping them close at hand. This cabinet forated top and a dust port. Carving and sanding
solves that challenge but also has a lot more to offer. tasks are almost dust-free. A support slides into the
The rotary tool hangs from a pivoting arm when box to hold the tool for hands-free operations.
stored or in use with a flexible shaft attachment, as This cabinet is sure to be a great addition and
you can see in the photo above. well-used in your shop. Turn the page to get started.
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
81⁄2"D x 15"W x 23"H
(STORED SIZE)
CATCH HOLDS
DOOR CLOSED
RABBETED DRAWER
RACKS PROVIDE CONSTRUCTION
STORAGE IS QUICK AND
FOR DOZENS STRONG
OF BITS AND
ACCESSORIES
DUST PORT
PROVIDES
CONNECTION TO
VACUUM HOSE
DUST BOX
Materials
rials & Hardware
CASE Q Lg. Drawer Sides (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 5
8 4
A Sides (2) 3⁄ x 6 - 18 R Lg. Drawer Bot. (1) 51⁄8 x 137⁄16 - 3⁄16 Hdbd.
4
B Top/Bottom (2) 3⁄4 x 81⁄2 - 15 S Box Front (1) 3⁄ x 37⁄ - 137⁄
8 16 16
C Dividers (2) 1⁄ x 51⁄ - 14 T Box Back (1) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 137⁄
2 4 8 16 16
D Partition (1) 1⁄ x 51⁄ - 9 U Box Sides (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 71⁄
2 4 8 16 2
E Center Divider (1) 1⁄ x 51⁄ - 41⁄ V Box Bottom (1) 75⁄8 x 137⁄16 - 3⁄16 Hdbd.
2 4 2
F Back (1) 14 x 17 - 1⁄4 Ply. W Brackets (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 31⁄
4 16 16
G Cleats (2) 1⁄ x 2 - 131⁄
2 2 X Side Dust Cap (1) 3 ⁄16 x 7 - 3⁄16 Hdbd.
1 { Compact. The cabinet closes up for
H Lower Case Sides (2) 3⁄ x 5 - 81⁄
4 2 Y Front Spacer (1) 1⁄ x 31⁄ - 4
2 16 compact storage of all your accessories.
I Lower Case Top/Bottom (2) 3⁄4 x 81⁄2 - 14 Z Front Dust Cap (1) 31⁄16 x 4 - 3⁄16 Hdbd.
J Lower Case Back (1) 14 x 4 - 1⁄4 Ply. AA Box Top (1) 75⁄8 x 137⁄16 - 3⁄16 Hdbd. • (2) Bullet Catches
K Sm. Drawer Front (2) 3⁄ x 4 - 4 BB Tool Support (1) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 73⁄ • (2) 11⁄2" x 163⁄8" Continuous Hinges
8 4 2 4
L Sm. Drawer Back (2) 3⁄ x 313⁄ - 4 CC Doors (2) 3⁄ x 71⁄ - 163⁄ • (21) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
8 16 4 2 8
M Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 3⁄ x 313⁄ - 5 DD Hinge Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 113⁄ - 163⁄ • (24) #6 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
8 16 4 16 8
N Sm. Drawer Bottoms (2) 4 x 51⁄8 - 3⁄16 Hdbd. EE Bit Racks (12) 11⁄ x 1 - 6
16 • (1) #8 Flat Washer
O Lg. Drawer Front (1) 3⁄ x 37⁄ - 137⁄ FF Hanger Arm (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 10 • (1) Screw Hook
8 16 16 4 2
P Lg. Drawer Back (1) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 137⁄ GG Hanger Stop (1) 3⁄ x 1 - 29⁄ • (1) 3⁄4"-10 Hex Nut
8 4 16 4 16
ShopNotes.com 25
BACK
D
6 SIDE
E PARTITION
CENTER (!/2" x 5!/4" - 9")
DIVIDER
(!/2" x 5!/4" - 4!/2") TOP
CL 4!/4
C VIEW
!/2
BOTTOM
A !/2"
RAD. !/2"
RAD.
B
BOTTOM
b.
(#/4" x 8!/2" - 15")
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
4!/4 d. !/4 FRONT VIEW
WOODSCREW
c. CLEAT
TOP
TOP/BOTTOM
DIVIDER
TOP LOWER CENTER
WALL DIVIDER DIVIDER
STUD
Case
BACK
There’s nothing tricky about plane all the stock to thickness. to the disk sander will round the
building the case for your rotary This will make it easier to cut the outside corners.
tool and accessories. Basic wood- dadoes and rabbets to the proper Grooves. With these four
working skills are all you need. width later on. Take note that pieces in hand, cut the groove
The top and bottom of the case you’ll need both 3⁄4" and 1⁄2"-thick along the back edge of each one
are extra deep. This provides stock to begin with. for the plywood back. At this
clearance for the bit racks on the Sides. I started with the cabi- point, you can assemble these
inside of the doors. The cabinet net sides, cutting them to their parts to form the shell of the cabi-
joinery consists of rabbets and final size. A dado blade in the net, keeping everything square.
dadoes for extra strength. table saw makes quick work of Then it’s time to move on to the
Later, you’ll add a small com- cutting the dadoes and rabbets inside of the cabinet.
partment below the main cabi- for the joinery. There’s an extra Dividers. The two full-length,
net. This houses a dust collection dado centered in the left side to horizontal dividers are cut to fit
box. You’ll finish up the main house the center divider. into the side dadoes. But before
cabinet with simple drawers. Top & Bottom. As I men- gluing them in place, you’ll need
tioned, the top and bottom are to cut a couple more dadoes (Fig-
BASIC CABINET extra wide. I made several passes ures 1 and 1d).
The illustrations in Figure 1 will over a dado blade to create the After gluing these dividers in
give you an overview of the con- notches for the sides. Just size place, cut the vertical partition
struction. Before you start cutting the notch so the outside face of to fit. There’s a dado on one side
pieces to size, it’s a good idea to the side is flush at the end. A trip that aligns with the dado in the
SIDE I
vide you with all of the details. LOWER
is the 1⁄2" roundover on the front the drawer fronts. Cut them to beted bottom edge to hide the
J H
corners. This matches the corner final length, but before cutting hardboard bottom. The drawer
radius on the main case bottom. them to width, it’s a good idea to bottom is simply glued to the I
It’s easiest to do this at the router drill the holes that will become bottom edge of the sides and
table after assembly. the semicircular finger notches back. Once all the joinery is cut, FRONT VIEW
(Figure 3c). Just use a Forstner bit assembly is a quick task with a
SIMPLE DRAWERS to drill the holes and then rip the little glue and a few clamps.
To finish up the main case, you’ll drawer fronts to final width.
add three drawers. They’re easy
to build and add plenty of stor-
age for accessories. SMALL
SMALL DRAWER
FIGURE DRAWER SIDE
3 SMALL
BACK (#/8" x 3!#/16" - 5")
DRAWER
(#/8" x 3!#/16" - 4")
L
M
c. CL
FRONT 1#/4"-DIA.
(#/8" x 4" - 4")
a. DRAWER
SIDES
K
M
!/4
LARGE
DRAWER
FRONTS FRONT
DRAWER VIEW
DRAWER #/8 BACK
FRONTS (#/8" x 3!/4" - 13&/16")
P
TOP VIEW SMALL
DRAWER
BOTTOM N
(4" x 5!/8" -
#/16" Hdbd.) LARGE DRAWER
b. Q
BOTTOM
(5!/8" x 13&/16" - #/16" Hdbd.)
DRAWER R
FRONTS
!/8
DRAWER
BACKS
#/16
O
SIDE VIEW LARGE DRAWER
FRONT
(#/8" x 3&/16" - 13&/16")
LARGE
DRAWER SIDE Q
(#/8" x 3!/4" - 5")
ShopNotes.com 27
FIGURE
(#/4" x 2!/2" - 7#/4") HEX NUT
a. b. SIDE VIEW
4 BB TOP VIEW
BOX 1!/4
FRONT/BACK TOOL
BOX SUPPORT
!/8 SIDE
BOX TOP 1!/4
(7%/8" x 13&/16") DIA.
#/8 #/4
AA SIDE DUST DIA. COUNTER-
HOLE BORE
CAP
(3!/16" x 7") !/2
X
c. CL &/8"
RADIUS
BOX
W U FRONT
T
BOX BACK
(#/8" x 3!/16" - 13&/16")
BOX SIDE CL 1!/4" FRONT
(#/8" x 3!/16" - 7!/2") RADIUS SPACER
BOX BOTTOM W
U (7%/8" x 13&/16") BRACKET BACK VIEW
(#/4" x 3!/16" - 3!/16")
DRILL FOR SNUG FIT V
OVER VACUUM HOSE
C
NOTE: TOP, BOTTOM, AND L Z
DUST CAPS ARE #/16" HDBD.
FRONT DUST CAP
(3!/16" x 4") S
!/2" %/8" #/4" #/8 Y CL BOX FRONT
1!/4 DIA. DIA. DIA. #/4 FRONT SPACER (#/8" x 3&/16" - 13&/16")
(!/2" x 3!/16" - 4")
1#/8 d.
1!/4
CL 2 TOOL
SUPPORT
1!/4
It also serves as a SIDE
base for mounting the CL VIEW
#/8" 1!/4
DIA. rotary tool in a sta- BRACKET
!/4 !/8
&/16" (/16" !!/16" !#/16" tionary position. The
DIA. DIA. DIA. DIA.
photo below shows
what I mean. 10° #/16
filling out the You’ll also close up
3
!/2
&/16
DD DOOR
BIT RACK
(SEE PAGE 32
FOR SPECS)
b.
FF 1#/4"
HANGER ARM DIA.
(#/4" x 1!/2" - 10") DOOR
CL
SCREW
HOOK
CC FRONT DOOR
VIEW
#6 x 1" Fh
WOODSCREW
EE
1#/4
c. FRONT VIEW
DD
HINGE STILE
(#/4" x 1!#/16" - 16#/8") EE
BIT &/16
CONTINUOUS
HINGE NOTE: RACK
BIT RACKS ARE INSTALLED (!!/16" x 1" - 6") 1
TIGHT AGAINST HINGE
STILES DOOR DOOR
#/8
!/8"
RADIUS 10
dust collection by gluing in
the hardboard dust cap, as 45°
#/4"
you can see in Figure 4. SWINGING RADIUS !/4
STOP 1!/16 ARM #8
!%/16 WASHER
Front Spacer & Cap. To
close off the finger notch for DOOR DOOR
more effective dust collection, 1" !/2
R.O. 2(/16 TOP VIEW
I made a spacer and front dust
cap. These are simply glued in
d. 2#/8
ShopNotes.com 29
smooth surface. After ripping You’re left with a surface that Profiles. There’s one more
a workpiece to width, a couple requires little or no sanding. step I take on workpieces before
of quick passes are all it takes End Grain. A sharp plane iron assembly. And that’s to ease the
to clean up the edge (upper left will also slice through end grain corners by making a light pass or
photo). The end result of your easily. I do this most often to trim two with the plane. This “breaks”
effort is a glass-smooth edge frame stiles flush with the rails, the edge to make the project more
ready for assembly. as in the lower left photo. To pleasing to the touch. And it pre-
Milling Marks. Discovering make this task easier, soften the vents the wood from splintering
planer or jointer marks when fibers first by dampening them on the corners. For decorative
applying a finish is frustrating. with mineral spirits. roundovers and chamfers, all it
That’s why I’ll plane the exposed And there’s another tip I want takes is a few more controlled
face of each workpiece smooth to pass along. When planing end passes (lower right photo).
before assembly on the project. grain, make sure to plane from Frames. My No. 3 plane is just
The plane is perfect for remov- both ends to avoid chipout as the the right size for leveling joints
ing saw marks. In the upper right blade exits the workpiece. You on a door or face frame (main
photo, you can see how the faces can also clamp a scrap workpiece photo). I start on the high side of
of a tapered leg can be made on the exit side to support the the joint and take light, sweeping
smooth with just a few passes. fibers and prevent chipout. cuts, working around the corner
until the joint is level.
As you can see, a No. 3 plane is
a go-to tool at the workbench. If
you don’t own one, you can turn
to page 51 for sources. It will be
one of your best investments.
{ Shaving End Grain. Moisten end grain before planing it flush { Easing Corners. Make a couple of light passes
with adjacent surfaces. Make sure the cut is backed up to avoid to break sharp edges. With a few more passes,
chipout on the back edge of the workpiece. you can create chamfers or roundovers.
ShopNotes.com 31
Shop
Short a.
Cuts
PUSH NOTE:
BLOCK BLANK
IS #/4" x 1"
%/8
RIP
FENCE
55°
few easy steps to create the bev- rotate the workpiece a quarter !/4 END
VIEW
eled front. And there are a couple turn, and adjust the rip fence to
of tricks for drilling the shank cut the second bevel. Be sure to RIP
FENCE
holes for rotary tool bits and the use a push block to keep your fin- 55°
pair of mounting holes. gers safely away from the blade.
Long Blanks. To start, I ripped After the cutting the pair of
a few 1"-wide strips from a long bevels, you can cut the racks
board. You’ll cut them to length to their final 6" length. For this
later, after forming the bevels. task, I used an auxiliary fence
Ripping the Bevels. Take on the miter gauge. A stop block A Drilling Fixture. To drill
a look at the two drawings on clamped to the fence makes it the series of holes for storing tool
the right. You can see how it’s easy to guarantee that all of the bits, I made the drilling fixture
a simple task to rip the bevels racks are cut to the same length. you see on the left. It holds the
rack at the proper angle so that
the accessory holes are drilled
a. CENTER BIT
HOLES ON
DRILL
PRESS
square to the beveled face.
WIDTH OF
FLAT
FENCE The fixture starts with a hard-
NOTE: CUT RACKS board base. On top of that, I
TO FINAL LENGTH
FENCE OF 6" BEFORE 55° glued two pieces of plywood to
DRILLING HOLES
act as fences. One of the fences
%/32"
DRILL BIT is wider and beveled along one
END VIEW edge, as you can see in detail ‘a’
BIT at left. With this fence glued to
RACK
the hardboard, use one of the
&/8
DRILLING
FIXTURE
DRILL AND
COUNTERSINK
FOR #6 Fh
b. rack blanks to position the sec-
WOODSCREW ond, narrow fence.
#/8 Adjust the drill press fence to
END
CENTERED VIEW locate the holes in the blank. I
ON FLAT used double-sided tape to hold
the fixture in place as I drilled all
BASE #/4"
(3!/2" x 12" - !/4" Hdbd.) &/16 the holes. Finish up by drilling a
PLYWOOD
pair of countersunk screw holes
for mounting (detail ‘b’).
Drilling Bench
Dog Holes 6
6
CL
1 a. #/4"-DIA.
2
ALIGN CENTERLINE OF FORSTNER
HOLES WITH LAY OUT BIT
MARK ON TABLE DOWEL ACTS AS INDEX
PIN TO POSITION
TEMPLATE TEMPLATE TO DRILL
REMAINING HOLES
TABLETOP
BACKER
PREVENTS BACKER
TEAROUT ON
THE LOWER
FACE
Creating SLOT
CL
TEMPLATE
CL
In addition to the bench dog
holes, the Assembly Table has
five slots cut near the center that 6
2 3
STAY CLEAR
OF THE
TEMPLATE
EDGES
REMOVE
TEMPLATE
REMOVE MOST FOR FINAL
USE A ROUTER PASS
OF THE WASTE TO TRIM THE SLOT
BETWEEN THE HOLES TO FINAL SIZE !/2" PATTERN BIT
WITH A JIG SAW
a. AND SMOOTH
THE EDGES
a.
ShopNotes.com 33
This handy
project combines a
large, flat worksurface
with flexible clamping
options and extra storage.
Assembly
a few requirements. The first is a large, flat work-
surface to spread out the parts. Then I want to
make sure all the clamps, glue, and other supplies
I need are close at hand.
This assembly table easily meets those needs.
The laminated top resists glue and accepts a wide
Table
range of clamps and hold-downs. The storage
cabinet below holds necessities nearby but out of
the way. In addition, this compact table features
simple, rugged joinery and doesn’t require a big
investment in time or materials.
WORKSURFACE IS
SUPPORTED BY
THICK HARDWOOD PLYWOOD STORAGE
STRETCHERS CASE IS ASSEMBLED
WITH TONGUE AND
DADO JOINERY
NOTCHES IN LEGS
WRAP AROUND CASE
FOR A ROCK-SOLID
CONNECTION
DIVIDER
SEPARATES CASE
INTO TWO NOTE: FOR HARDWARE
ADJUSTABLE COMPARTMENTS SOURCES, TURN TO
LEVELERS IN LEGS PAGE 51
STABILIZE TABLE IN USE
To download
down
do wnloloaa a free
cutt
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cutting
ttttin
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ing di
diag
diagram
agra
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A LIP ON THE BACK A
Asse
Assembly
ssemb mbl
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SIDE OF THE CASE
KEEPS ITEMS ShopNotes.com
ShopNote
IN PLACE
Materials
& Hardware
A Case Sides (2) 12 x 24 - 3⁄4 Ply.
B Case Top/Bottom (2) 24 x 39 - 3⁄4 Ply.
C Divider (1) 11 x 39 - 3⁄4 Ply.
D Lip (1) 3⁄ x 1 - 381⁄
4 2
E Legs (4) 3 x 3 - 301⁄2
F Stretchers (2) 11⁄4 x 3 - 44
G Top Core (1) 30 x 48 - 11⁄2 Ply.
H Top Skin (1) 30 x 48 - Plastic Laminate
ShopNotes.com 35
THE CASE on the front and a shallow shelf When making a case with this
Building the table starts with a at the back. Additionally, when kind of joinery, I like to cut the
simple plywood case that forms it’s installed in the table, the top dadoes first. Then I size the
the foundation, as you can see in of the case serves as a shelf for tongue to fit. The reason for
Figure 1. The case provides some clamps or tools. doing things in this order is sim-
valuable storage space. It keeps Practical Joinery. The case is ple. It’s usually easier to adjust
the tools, supplies, and acces- joined with simple tongue and the size of the tongue than it is to
sories you use during a glueup dado construction, as illustrated tweak a dado.
within easy reach. in Figures 1 and 1b. I chose The dadoes in this case are cut
The case is divided into two this joinery because it helps into the two sides. There’s one
spaces. A larger compartment align the parts during assembly. each along the top and bottom
edge, as shown in Figure 1b.
FIGURE NOTE: DRY ASSEMBLE The mating tongues come next.
2 CASE TO DETERMINE
FINAL SIZE OF DIVIDER They’re cut on each end of the
!/4" ROUNDOVER top and bottom. That takes care
of the corner joints. But there’s
another detail to note. That’s a
groove cut on the inside face of
all the case parts. This groove
captures the divider to create the
!/4" ROUNDOVER
C
END VIEW a.
DIVIDER !/4
(11" x 39") DIVIDER SIDE
LIP
!/4" ROUNDOVER
NOTE: DIVIDER IS BOTTOM
#/4" PLYWOOD. LIP IS D
MADE FROM #/4"-THICK
HARDWOOD LIP
(1" x 38!/2")
STRETCHER
FIGURE (1!/4" x 3" - 44")
4 F b. END VIEW
F
a. FRONT VIEW
LEG #/4
STRETCHER
#8 x 2" Fh
WOODSCREW
LEG
DRILL &/8"-DIA.
COUNTERBORE
AND %/16"-DIA. HOLE
CASE
CASE
#8 x 2" Fh
WOODSCREW NOTE: ATTACH
CASE TO LEGS
BEFORE ADDING
#/8"-16 STRETCHERS
T-NUT
2!/2
SECURE STRETCHER
AND CASE TO LEGS
WITH GLUE AND SCREWS
#/8"-16 x 2!/2"
LEVELING FOOT
ShopNotes.com 37
work table
Accessories Veritas
Wonder Dog
Jorgensen
Hold-Down
Clamp
The 3⁄4"-diameter holes in the top
of the assembly table accept a wide
range of accessories. Here are a few
that I think deserve a look. Some
Veritas
are designed to hold a workpiece Bench Stud
down on the table. Others pinch
a workpiece horizontally. You u can
find sources on page 51.
Veritas
Traditional Bench Blades
Holdfast
Veritas
Surface Veritas
Clamp Wonder Pup
#/4"
RAD. HOLD-DOWN !/2"
(1!/2" x 3!/2"- 10!/4") WASHER
2" CL
RAD.
SIDE VIEW
(BLANK)
4!/8 5!/2
65°
102°
#/4
#/4
{ Hold-Downs. These hardwood hold-downs provide a firm grip 1 1!/16
to pin a workpiece to the tabletop. The contoured ends allow the 12"
RAD.
hold-down to accommodate thin stock as well as thick parts.
22
22
CORNER
a. TOP VIEW
1!/2 CL
4 14
#/4" DIA.
HOLE
NOTE: ATTACH 14
CORNER TO BENCH #/8" RAD.
WITH TWO VERITAS CORNER
BENCH STUDS CL RELIEF
(SEE PAGE 38)
{ Assembly Corner. Made from two layers of plywood, this jig
mounts in the holes and guarantees that frame corners will go
together square, right from the start.
!/2"-13 x 12"
THREADED
ROD
{ Instant Press. A few lengths of threaded rod and stout hardwood !/2"
VENEER !/2"-13
cauls let you turn the assembly table into a large press for attaching WASHER
HEX NUT
SUBSTRATE
veneer or laminating flat stock into thicker pieces.
ShopNotes.com 39
creating a
Lap
Dovetail
This time-tested joint is
simple to make by hand and
results in strong furniture.
ShopNotes.com 41
miter gauge. A box joint jig is one And a dedicated miter gauge can
good example. But it can be a real improve the performance and
hassle putting the jig on and reca- accuracy of these tools as well.
librating it every time you use it. I use the disk sander in my
Instead, you can save time and shop to tweak parts for a perfect
headaches by attaching it perma- fit, as shown in the upper left
nently to a miter gauge. photo. Rather than borrow the
When putting a miter gauge miter gauge from the table saw,
back to work, it’s a good idea to this is a great place to keep one.
give it a quick once-over to set The upper right photo shows
it up to make accurate cuts. You how a miter gauge can make a { Reuse the Parts. The most valuable part of an old
can see a couple simple steps you band saw more versatile. But miter gauge is the bar. You can reuse it when building
can take in the box below. it could just as easily work at a jigs or other fixtures for your shop.
router table, too.
OTHER SHOP TOOLS Strip It For Parts. Let’s face it, when making other shop jigs and
The table saw isn’t the only place not all miter gauges are worth sav- accessories (lower photo above).
where an old miter gauge can find ing. As a last resort, you can take After seeing the possibilities,
a new life. A quick look around the old miter gauge apart before I’m always on the lookout for
your shop will reveal a few other tossing it in the recycle bin. The more. It seems an old miter gauge
tools that have miter gauge slots. bar and handle can often be used can be an upgrade, after all.
miter gauge
Fine Tuning
No matter how you plan to use
a miter gauge, it pays to give it a
quick tune-up.
Fit the Bar. One easy way
to increase the accuracy of any
miter gauge is to make sure the
bar has a wiggle-free fit in the
slot. A quick way to do this is
to apply strips of foil tape to the
edge of the bar. Add layers until
you have a smooth-sliding fit.
Set It Once. If the new task
calls for a fixed position, use a
drafting triangle to set the proper { Set It Once. For fixed miter
angle, then apply a little thread- { Perfect Fit. To zero in on a slop-free fit, apply gauge angles, apply thread lock
locking compound to the screw strips of aluminum foil tape to the edge of the bar. to the handle stud. Plastic drafting
on the handle to hold the setting. The self-adhesive strips slide smoothly, too. squares provide low-cost accuracy.
ShopNotes.com 43
Benches,
countertops,
and tables can
serve as outfeed
support for your
table saw. Their
height should be
equal to or slightly
Standard
lower than your
countertop height
saw’s table.
is 36" but can
range from 34" to
38" depending on
your height. Use
Store
the measurement
heavier or
from the floor to a
infrequently
couple of inches
used items
below your waist as
in lower
a starting point.
cabinets.
ShopNotes.com 45
what’s new in
Routing
Here’s the scoop on
the latest in compact
routers and a couple
of handy routing
accessories.
You wouldn’t think there would
be much new when it comes to
routing, but tool manufacturers
are always working to bring new
products to the market. Makita
has a new compact router kit that
provides a good value for your product that deserves attention a few years ago, I was pretty
hard-earned dollars. Amana Tool’s is the Eliminator RC Quick Chuck. excited. Let’s face it — for a lot of
unique 3D router bit is worth a You can find out where to buy all routing tasks like edge profiling,
look. And another time-saving of these products on page 51. dadoes, and grooves, a full-size
router can be a little unwieldy at
MAKITA ROUTER KIT times. But these compact routers
When the DeWalt and Porter-Cable have proven they have plenty of
compact routers hit the market “oomph” to get the job done.
Makita recently introduced
Tote with Motor their compact router kit, model
removable
RT0700CX3. This 11⁄4-hp, variable-
insert
Fixed speed router kit ups the ante
base with the number of accessories
Plunge included. You can see what I
base mean in the photo at left. Makita
calls this unit a “trimmer,” but it’s
Edge definitely a full-featured router.
guide Multiple Bases. The router kit
includes four different bases: A
plunge base, fixed base, tilt base
(for making cuts with the router
angled to the workpiece), and an
Flush offset base that allows you to rout
trimming into tight corners.
Offset base Wrenches Do-All Router. When you look
guide
Tilt base at all of the accessories included
Auxiliary Bushings & in the kit, you’d be hard-pressed
handle MAKITA COMPACT collet adapter to think of any routing task this
ROUTER KIT
48 ShopNotes No. 124
Extra-long
shank
extends
above router
table
ShopNotes.com 49
defining
Hardwoods
& Softwoods In terms of hardness,
ardness, what’s
the real difference between
hardwoods and softwoods?
Kris Crow Leaves. Without getting too of force required to do so is a
Milwaukee, WI technical, the simplest way to dis- wood’s Janka rating.
tinguish a hardwood tree from In the chart to the left, you
While hardwoods are generally a softwood tree is by its leaves. can get an idea of the hardness
harder than most softwoods, Hardwood trees (like oaks or range among woods typically
that’s not always the case. It maples) typically have broad used in woodworking. As you
comes down to the botanical leaves. Softwoods or conifers can see, hardwoods like poplar,
classification of the tree, not the (such as pines or cedars) have basswood, and balsa (yes, balsa
relative hardness of the wood, needle-like or scale-like leaves. is a hardwood) are actually softer
that determines which group a Additionally, most hard- than some softwoods, such as
wood belongs in. woods are deciduous and will Douglas fir and white pine.
shed their leaves at the end of Strength. An important dis-
Janka Wood each growing season. This is true tinction to make when discussing
in all but the warmest regions. the properties of wood is the rela-
Hardness Scale And all domestic softwoods, tionship between hardness and
Wood Species Janka Rating with the exception of larch and strength. When evaluating wood
Ebony 3220 cypress, are evergreens. choices for your next project,
Mesquite 2345 I use exotic wood species such take into consideration that hard-
Hickory and Pecan 1820 as bocote or cocobolo in some of ness is just one factor of overall
Hard/Sugar Maple 1450
White Oak 1360 my projects, as well. These woods strength. Other properties, such
White Ash 1320 are almost always hardwoods. as the ability of a wood to carry
Northern Red Oak 1290 Hardness Defined. When it a load, absorb shock, and resist
Yellow Birch 1260 comes to determining the actual splitting, should also play a role
American Walnut 1010 hardness of a wood, however, in your final decision.
American Cherry 950
Honduran Mahogany 800 a standardized test is use. This When selecting lumber, also
Douglas Fir 660 is commonly referred to as the keep in mind that the natural
Poplar 540 Janka hardness test, named after growth characteristics of trees may
White Pine 420 Austrian Gabriel Janka, who have created knots, pitch pockets,
Basswood 410 established it in 1906. It involves or inconsistent grain. Each of these
Western Red Cedar 350
embedding a 0.444" steel ball to characteristics can affect the over-
Balsa 100
one-half its diameter into the all strength of the wood and may
= Softwoods
surface of the wood. The pounds be a factor in your selection.
Woodworker’s Hardware
800-383-0130
® wwhardware.com
Go to ShopNotes.com
or Call 1-800-444-7527 Today to Order Yours!
ShopNotes.com 51
When it comes
to making smooth,
accurate tenons, two
blades are better
than one. Master the
Take a look at a couple of jigs that make it easy to create your own custom dowels technique on page 46.
and round stock using just a hand-held drill. Find the details on page 10.
ShopNotes.com