LaminatingDough SFBINewsSp05

Happy Spring from SFBI!
What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005
lamination: layers beyond imagination

by Jeffrey Yankellow - Baking & Pastry Instructor
O
South San Francisco, CA 94080
480 Grandview Drive ften the difference between a good crois- Assuming the rest of the process is done properly, the better the
San Francisco Baking Institute sant and a great croissant lies in the lamination, the better the pastry. Lamination is not difficult, but, just
details. A great artisan croissant has the as with any other part of the baking process, it is attention to detail
flavors and aromas of long fermentation; smells that makes the difference. Ideal flakiness is created when many layers
and tastes of high quality butter; and has a deep of dough are separated by thin layers of fat. The fat creates lightness
golden brown color. And, most importantly, a because the water in the fat creates steam, which helps “lift” the layers.
Permit No. 855
San Francisco, CA great croissant is light and flaky. The thin deli- For un-yeasted laminated dough, such as puff pastry, steam is the sole
PAID cate crust should be in balance with the moist, source of leavening.
U.S. POSTAGE Jeffrey Yankellow honeycomb interior. The weight should be fairly
PRSRT STD
Baking & Pastry Instructor
light relative to the volume, and the layers of dough What a great idea!
should be clearly visible along the rolled edges of There is no concrete evidence of when lamination became a standard
the pastry. There are many factors that lead to the perfect croissant, bakery process. One of the most well-known laminated pastries, the
starting with the choice of ingredients, mixing methods and fer- croissant, wasn’t originally made from a laminated dough. It origi-
mentation schedule. But the defining moment is often the one that nated in Austria, but was not laminated until the 1920’s by French
San Francisco Baking Institute pastry chefs looking to improve the quality.
SFBI INSTRUCTORS Baking and Pastry Arts School for Professionals & Enthusiasts takes the most effort: the process of lamination.
480 Grandview Drive What is lamination? Lamination can be described as the process of It is also interesting to note that Western civilizations are not alone
South San Francisco, CA 94080 layering fat and dough through a series of folds, to achieve a flaky in using lamination for pastry. One of the fundamental Chinese pastry
phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729 structure and increased volume. The result is a light, flaky pastry doughs is a flaky pastry that uses lard or oil and a similar technique
www.sfbi.com that is hard to match in terms of pure, simple goodness. Any type to accomplish the same goal of layering dough and fat to create a
of dough can be laminated, but the most common and familiar are crisp and delicate encasement for a sweet or savory filling.
croissant, Danish, and puff pastry. Brioche is joining that list but is
Where to start
often overlooked for its more traditional form.
The best place to start to explain lamination is to establish some
Jeffrey Yankellow Brian Wood
standard principles. Laminated dough can be yeasted or non-yeasted,
Baking & Pastry
Instructor
Baking & Pastry
Instructor “The fine arts are five in number, namely: but the fundamentals are the same for both. Examples of the yeasted
O ur talented instructors are dedicated painting, sculpture, are croissant and Danish. Puff pastry is the most familiar form of
to providing a comprehensive learn-
WHAT’S RISING THIS SEASON ... poetry, music, and
non-yeasted.
ing experience that combines the
value of hands-on training with the equally
● lamination: layers beyond imagination architecture, the Fermentation
It is important to note that for yeasted dough, good lamination will
important experience of individual baking ● 2005 course calendar principal branch not replace the benefits of long fermentation. Bakers must start with
creativity. Our class sizes are deliberately smaller of the latter a well-fermented dough that has had an extended first fermentation
than most other culinary schools, so that we can recipe of the season: croissant with poolish or been made using a preferment. For convenience, try mixing a
provide you with better opportunities for interac-
●
being pastry.” straight dough and allowing it to ferment in the refrigerator over-
tion with your instructor and fellow students. ● special offer on proofing baskets night. This allows the fermentation to happen without the baker
Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
(1755-1826) having to wait during a shift.
● baker’s tip and more!
continued on page 3
What’s Rising is designed and edited by

Jennifer Donahue Marketing Communications
www.jenniferdonahue.com
what’s inside: lamination, 2005 course schedule, seasonal recipe, baker’s tip,
special offer on proofing baskets and more ...
1
from michel: recipe of the season: croissant with poolish
about us: the ethics of “poaching”
sfbi Michel Suas, Founder/President
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A
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ince 1996, the San “poacher” targeted Oftentimes, I receive calls for a baker’s ��
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Francisco Baking SFBI. Our head position opening and I know a lot of baker
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instructor, Didier “assistants” or “head bakers” who would fit ��
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Institute (SFBI) has Rosada, got an offer he the job. However, I do not say anything ��
could not turn down, and, because I know that most bakeries, especially ��
trained hundreds of profes-
I must say, I would have smaller ones, depend on key staff members, ��
sional and aspiring bakers taken the position, too. who are a big part of their operation, and ��
Michel Suas
from all over the world. We Reading these lines, I do not necessarily have the resources and ��
am sure some of you will structure to immediately or effectively ��
��
I
have acted as the unofficial think, “I should have offered Didier a job.” replace someone. ��
f you enjoy a great croissant, try this ��
However, you did not. I want to thank you
training site for several for it! A more beneficial exchange would help to variation with a poolish. Most bakers ��
��
use a poolish for their baguette, and ��
award-winning Baking USA both promote good workers and provide ��
��
You know how much SFBI brings to the goals to entry-level bakers to show them it works equally as well to produce an ��
Teams and hosted a variety baking industry by giving support to both how far they can advance. The next time irresistible croissant dough. Don’t stop
��
smaller bakeries and larger ones. Besides, you, as a owner or chef, see an ad that could with the croissant; try using it for rum ��
of international groups—from raisin rolls or chocolate praline rolls, too! ��
you know that taking a key staff member benefit one of your employees, share the
countries including Russia, from a small organization like SFBI could be information. Show that you are supporting
��
��
��
viewed as unfair. Especially when flashing all their skills and hard work and education in ��
China and Japan—interested
the big dollar signs that SFBI cannot afford. the baking industry.
in bringing artisan baking
However, rest assured that the San Francisco Furthermore, if your employees show
back to their homelands. Baking Institute is not in difficulty; we have potential, send them to seminars or similar
SFBI is recognized within talented people in place. Our mission is still
the same as it was at our inception. Our
educational classes to polish their skills and
better themselves. They will be ready to take
“Blues is to jazz what yeast is to bread. Without it, it’s flat.”
the baking industry as a place philosophy remains the same, too: independent, on new challenges within your workplace. Carmen McRae, Jazz vocalist and pianist (1920-1994)
where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

at any cost - raising the bar constantly by All that said, I do wish Didier good luck in
respected, appreciated and
baker’s tip: making the baker’s life easier
listening to your needs. We have lots of his new endeavor. We support his success.
exciting new ideas and commitments for I know we will see him again at the San
celebrated. We are passionate Francisco Baking Institute for visits and
2005 and beyond.
about sharing our knowledge various projects. He is addicted to us. by Jeffrey Yankellow, Baking & Pastry Instructor
I would like to talk a little bit about “poach- --Michel Suas
and enthusiasm with students
D
ing.” Everyone can be a victim of it by a
and clients in an effort to
raise the level of the craft.
chef/owner or recruiter, who decides to
go through the back door to tempt away career eciding to own or even
just work in a bakery has
traditionally destined the
In a bakery that makes croissants, Danish, bear claws,
cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, and a variety of sweet
rolls, all can be made with croissant.
another company’s employees. I must say
that it is something I never saw in France
while working in restaurants or bakeries.
opportunity baker to a life of long hours in the
middle of the night. Motivated by Unlike the simple croissant, these other products
First of all, if an owner or chef needed the desire to have a friendlier sched- have fillings and glazes which generally have more
Are you an experienced baking & pastry Jeffrey Yankellow ule and workload, techniques such of an impact on the consumer’s buying decision
someone they would call other chef/owners
instructor looking for an exciting new as retarding and freezing are used than whether or not the Danish is made from a true
to find out if they had a person available to
opportunity? SFBI is now hiring! more and more. One way to lighten the load in the Danish dough.
promote. In addition, if a chef/owner had
an employee who had reached a high level bakery, especially in smaller operations with limited
Please forward your resume to: employees, is to cross utilize the staple preparations. You can even add a small percentage of eggs to the
of competency and they did not have a
San Francisco Baking Institute Croissant dough is a perfect example of how this croissant to give it more body and richness. It will
position open for such a skilled worker, they
480 Grandview Drive works. It is a classic product that, in its best forms, still be suitable for croissants and work great for
would assist him finding a place worth his
South San Francisco, CA 94080 reveals subtle fermentation, a honeycomb interior, everything else. If it tastes great the customer may
talents, opening doors for him to improve
pure butter flavor, and a light flaky texture. Sounds even like it better and the baker gets to save himself
and evolve in his field. Or email Michel Suas at: good right? So why not use the same dough for a lot of work!
michel@sfbi.com more than just croissants?
2 11
farewell: from didier lamination: layers beyond imagination
continued from page 1
T
The flavors and dough characteristics are For the yeasted forms of laminated dough
he time has come from and consulting. equal to when using a preferment. As I will there are two schools of thought. Because
me to move on to the explain later, it is best to work with the fermentation is going to be a factor in build-
next chapter in my life. I know SFBI is in good hands with Jeff and
dough cold during the lamination process. ing strength in the dough, the dough should
I have been given the perfect Brian.The standards of quality and the mission
never be taken beyond the improved mix
opportunity to grow as an indi- instilled by Michel will remain the same. I am If a preferment will be used, with or with- stage or medium gluten development. If
vidual and as a baker in a new sure I will cross paths with many of you in the out fermenting the dough in the refrigerator the dough is taken to full development the
environment. future. I will be involved with SFBI for classes overnight, the choice of preferment is up to
Didier Rosada dough may have an excess of strength and
Head Instructor and consulting. I can be contacted at the same the baker. Traditionally, sponge is used for elasticity that will create challenges during
I am joining Uptown Bakers email address: didier@sfbi.com sweet doughs, as the flavor and strength it the shaping stage. Intensive mixing may also
in Washington, D.C. as Vice President of provides is a good match.
Thank you for all the good times we cause an excess of volume during the bak-
Operations. This position will advance my
have had, and will continue to have in the ing, resulting in a finished texture that lacks
skills on the operational side of the bakery A poolish by itself or a poolish combined
future! substance and body.
business and also will allow me to continue with another preferment is a great way to
with my other passions, including teaching -- Didier increase the extensibility sometimes created Some bakers only mix their croissant and
by stronger flours during the folding process. Danish in first speed until good incorpo-
No matter which technique is used, remem- ration is achieved. The dough is given a
ber that the fermentation of the dough is as long first fermentation and the strength of
important as the lamination. the dough is achieved through the folding
Although often considered “sweet dough”,
Ingredient selection process. By not mixing the dough too much,
croissants and Danish actually contain a
extensibility is not sacrificed. There is also
“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread Fat choice used for lamination will be moderate amount of sugar. White granulated
very little oxidation and great flavor due
discussed later in this article. At this point, sugar is typically the sweetener of choice,
with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” it is important to understand the other main but brown sugar is an easy way to create a
to the short mixing. The result in the baked
ingredients used in lamination, the most pastry is smaller volume and a slightly heavier,
James Beard (1903-1985) new flavor profile for any laminated dough.
important being the flour. Think of laminated but acceptable, texture. The overall appear-
dough like bread. The goal is to create a If the laminated dough is yeasted, any form ance may not look as sharp, but still retains
dough with sufficient fermentation tolerance of yeast may be used in the right propor- generally nice visual and eating qualities.
help a student: buy a proofing basket! that provides a good balance of elasticity and
extensibility. The best choice is to use an
tion. Because of the levels of sugar and fat
in these doughs it is necessary to use higher
The other route to take is to mix the dough
to a medium stage of gluten development,
artisan-style bread flour made from hard amounts of sugar than are typically used in
or the improved mix. This creates dough
lean dough. If the sugar is above 12% based
T
winter wheat with a protein level between with more strength out of the mixer, allowing
hanks to a donation from Trader 10.5 and 12%. The same flour used for the on the weight of the total flour, osmotoler-
for reduced fermentation time. Fermentation
Joe’s, SFBI is happy to offer a line All proceeds go to Rattan banneton baskets bread in the bakery should be perfect. ant yeast may be a good choice to keep the
flavors and benefits can still be achieved by
of high-quality proofing baskets lined with linen: proofing process moving at a faster rate.
as a fund-raiser for our new Scholarship the non-profit Depending on the type of pastry, milk may
Mixing
fermenting over a 12-18 hour period in the
refrigerator or by using preferments. If a good
Organization. All proceeds from the sales Sizes: or may not be used. Typically, croissant
of these baskets will go directly to our non- San Francisco is made with a blend of milk and water. The first step of the baking process that affects quality artisan flour is used, there still won’t
8” Diameter - 4-1/4” H: TRA-B8 the lamination is the mixing of the dough. In be any problems with extensibility, and if there
profit scholarship organization, which helps Baking Scholarship Dough Weight: 1 to 1.5 lbs.
Danish usually is made with all milk. Puff
pastries are generally made with all water, the category of non-yeasted dough there are is a problem with a certain flour, the right
economically challenged students with their Price: $8.00 each
baking education tuition at SFBI. Organization. but certain varieties contain some white generally two levels of development. For yeasted
dough, there are wide-ranging opinions and
preferment can correct it.
10” Diameter - 4-3/4” H: TRA-B10 wine.Whole milk is the best choice for flavor The finished pastry will have slightly more
and richness, but it may be substituted with possibilities. For traditional, inverted, and blitz
Your purchase will help a student who is Dough Weight: 1.5 to 2 lbs. volume than the short mix dough and the
any variety, including dry. Just remember forms of puff pastry, the dough is mixed as
passionate about baking and pastry afford Price: $10.00 each honeycomb interior will be lighter and more
to compensate with water when using dry little as possible in order to incorporate the
professional training - and it’s tax deduct- open. Regardless of which technique is used, a
12” Diameter - 6” H: TRA-B12 milk. Milk provides flavor, richness, and ingredients, and no more.
ible! Please help SFBI build our scholarship TRA-B12 high quality dough can be achieved.
fund for the many deserving students who Dough Weight: 3 to 4 lbs. color. The lower the fat content of the milk,
There is no need to develop the gluten Incorporating the fat
need a little help with tuition by placing an Price: $12.00 each the less these benefits will be seen.
in the mixer since puff pastry is given at Once the dough has finished fermenting (or
order for baskets today! Call 650.589.5724 TRA-B8
TRA-B10 Eggs are an additional hydrating ingredient least four turns during the lamination pro- resting in the case of puff pastry) it is time
to place your order. Quantities are limited, Call 650.589.5724 to order.
that may be added to croissant dough but cess, which builds sufficient strength in the to start creating the layers of fat that give
so order soon! Quantities are limited,
are generally reserved more for Danish and dough. The exceptions are forms of puff laminated dough its defining characteristics.
so order soon!
laminated brioche. They are added to the pastry that usually contain eggs and The same techniques and principles apply to
Italian form of puff pastry. Eggs add color, additional ingredients and are intensively yeasted and non-yeasted varieties.
flavor, richness, and strength. mixed to build strength in the dough.
continued on page 4
10 3
lamination: layers beyond imagination start fresh: begin a career in baking
continued from page 3 Changing careers or want to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma in just sixteen weeks of training!
The percentage of roll-in fat used is based two pieces of heavy plastic with a roll-
I
on the dough weight. The amount of fat Fat ing pin. If processing large quantities, it is
f you are committed to starting a new
invest in your
rolled in to croissant and Danish generally easiest to soften, not cream, the butter in a
career as a baker, or enhancing your
ranges from 20-30%. If the dough is given mixer with a spiral hook or paddle, and then
Dough spread it into the desired size on a piece of
current career in the baking industry,
sufficient fermentation there is no need to
use an excessive amount of fat to produce a
great tasting item.Too much fat can lead to a
parchment, a silicone mat, or heavy plastic.
These pads of butter can then be placed in
our 16 Week Bread & Pastry Professional
Training Program will give you the foundation future
the refrigerator until needed. If they get too you need to achieve success.
greasy texture. For puff pastry, 50% of roll in fat Join a profession with a legacy
is standard but it can range from 40-100%. hard in the refrigerator they should be tempered SFBI recognizes that not every student has the
slightly by leaving out at room temperature of quality, dedication and honor
time and budget available for six months or and begin a career in an industry
To start the process, the dough should first Fat for a short period of time. Otherwise there
more of training. At the same time, you want
be spread out in a rectangle 1/2”-1” thick. Dough may be some cracking of the butter during that continues to thrive and grow
to be sure you receive the very best education
Thickness will vary with the size of the the sheeting process.
available. We designed our progressive pro- what: in any economic climate.
piece. The dough can then be covered and gram to meet these specific needs. 16 Week Bread & Pastry
When butter with a high water content Develop life-long skills in a
chilled while the fat is prepared. Professional Training Program
is used, its plasticity will be improved by
blending it with approximately 8% of bread
Our highly concentrated, focused curriculum profession that offers security,
In Europe, pre-formed fat is readily available. includes an unusually high level of hands-on flexibility and creativity.
flour based on the butter weight.
In the U.S., unless the bakery is using an
When using butter it is best to keep the practice and deliberately small class sizes. In when:
automated system, the fat must be formed Margarine our spacious facility, just a short drive from Our current session begins April 25, Train in a professional environ-
dough and fat as cold as possible. During
manually or with the aid of a press. The idea Margarine is often used as a substitute for downtown San Francisco, we offer a techno- 2005; the next session is in 2006.
the lamination process, this makes it easier ment that balances theory with
is to soften the fat just to the point that it is butter. It is cheaper, has a higher melting logically advanced, welcoming environment
pliable and very plastic, but not melting.
to work with the dough. It also prevents hands-on learning and focuses
temperature, and can be stored at room where we introduce students to artisan baking
softening or melting of the butter, which
can be detrimental to the lightness and
temperature. Margarine is made from veg- at its best. where: on the skills you need in the real
The fat should be sized to exactly half the etable oils that have been hydrogenated Train at SFBI’s facility, just a few world of baking today.
size of the dough rectangle. Once the fat is flakiness of the final product.
to make them solid at room temperature. For two weeks of our program, you will minutes from the one of the most
formed, place it directly into the center of Often, yellow coloring is added, in addition have the unique opportunity to hone your beautiful cities in the world and Working Bakers
When using shortening or margarine care
the dough rectangle and bring the outside to artificial flavors, salts, and milk solids. skills in France - the birthplace of artisan Enhance your career and your
should be taken to not let the dough get spend 2 weeks in France. Learn in
edges of the dough around the fat so they baking. This unique culinary adventure will
too cold or the fat will lose its plasticity and Margarine is more “plastic” than butter and a production-sized environment, salary with new cutting-edge
meet in the middle, as shown in the diagram introduce you to the history, tradition and
in the next column.
break up under the dough. takes less effort to form into the needed shape with small class sizes, spacious bak- skills and a deeper understanding
new, trend-setting practices of European
for lamination. It also melts at approximately baking in the best way possible: first-hand
ery classrooms and technologically of the baking arts.
Fat Choice
Next, using a heavy wooden rolling pin, 6-8 degrees higher than the temperature of experience. At the Institut National de la advanced equipment.
There are a number of fats that will achieve Aspiring Bakers
gently press on the dough starting 1” in butter, making it less fragile during the lami-
great lamination. From an artisan perspective, Boulangerie, one of France’s most respected Changing careers or opening a
from the ends, and then finishing with the nating process. Since margarine and the other
entire middle section. This will encourage
quality and flavor should be the first priority. hydrogenated fats listed below melt at temper-
baking schools, you will train with French who: bakery? The 16 Week Bread
Often, economics will play a greater role in instructors as you stay in nearby accom- Baking Instructors:
the butter and fat to move together once the atures above body temperature, they are likely ●
and Pastry Professional Training
determining not only the fat, but the quality modations with your fellow students and Jeff Yankellow and Brian Wood
dough is rolled or sheeted. It also aids in keep- to leave an unpleasant film in the mouth. Program gives you the skills
of that fat. Following are the main types of fat absorb the local culture.
ing the edge of the fat and dough lined up and knowledge you need to
used for lamination along with descriptions Roll-in Shortening
together. It is not necessary to enclose the fat
and considerations for each. Roll-in or puff pastry shortening is another why: get started.
in the dough by sealing the end of the dough choice for lamination fat that is often used Visit us on line at www.sfbi.com The only school in the United States
together. If this is done there will be dough Butter in larger bakeries. It is generally made of a for a fully detailed curriculum dedicated exclusively to artisan Owners and Bakery Managers
with no fat in between and the results may Most people agree that butter produces the hydrogenated fat that has water added, along along with informa- baking, SFBI offers you the unique Grow your business with the
appear in the final product. best tasting laminated pastry with the best with artificial flavoring, color, and, sometimes, tion about opportunity to be fully trained in employees you send to train at
eating qualities. The reason it is not always emulsifiers. The water contributes to the
If care is taken to keep the fat exactly half the used is because it is the most expensive of
tuition and just 16 weeks, in an environment SFBI. Benefit from the enthusiasm
leavening of the pastry. The emulsifiers
size of the dough rectangle, and the dough the choices, and it is the most fragile in create a waxy or plastic texture which econ- housing, where baking never takes a and loyalty that a good
is even all the way around the fat, even and terms of temperature tolerance. Butter starts omizes the rolling and folding process. or call us at backseat to other culinary learning. education brings to young
uniform layers will be achieved. If this step is 650.589.5784
to soften at about 80° F. For an artisan bakery,
Blended fat
people with an interest in their
neglected, it is hard to correct later. butter is the only choice.
More often than not, price is the deciding and ask for an how: work. Give back to the baking
From this point on it is very beneficial to When processing small quantities of dough factor in the choice of fat for lamination. application Apply on line at www.sfbi.com community and help contribute
have the dough and fat the same texture. it is best to work with the butter directly One way to get the benefits of all of the package to or call us for more information to its continued growth by
This is generally achieved with tempera- out of the refrigerator. It can be formed and previously mentioned fats is to combine them. be mailed or at 650.589.5784. helping to build the next
ture. Depending on what type of fat, the Margarine or shortening is often blended with generation of artisan bakers.
made pliable by flattening it out between emailed to you.
temperature will vary. butter to get the flavor without too much cost.
4 9
Many people have never tasted a truly good croissant or Danish and It is important to keep in mind that more is not better when it
will be shocked at how delicious they can be when made properly. comes to folding the dough.
continued from page 5 As a general rule, the biggest challenge is During the freezing process the dough will Be aware The diagram below represents the single fold. If the environment is warm the dough
to apply even pressure to the dough when lose strength due to the crystallization of Although it probably won’t make a signifi- The dough is first sheeted approximately three should be chilled in between every fold to
The baking temperature should not be too
rolling. If too much downward force is water. The final fold after defrosting will cant difference in the preferences of most times as long as it is wide. One third of the allow for the fat to stay cold. If more than
cold. If it is too cold the butter will melt
applied to the dough piece, the lamination rebuild some of that strength. consumers, the FDA is requiring that by dough is folded into the center of the piece two folds are going to be done, the dough
instead of creating steam and the final result
and layers will be damaged. January 1, 2006, all foods that contain at and the remaining third is folded on top of should be allowed to relax after the first
may be heavy and greasy. Additionally, if the Freezing shaped least .5 grams of trans fat per serving, will be that. That is the completion of one single fold. dough to allow the fat to stay cold and the
pastry is baked too cold the pastry will be Retarding options Freezing the laminated pastry shaped is a required to list the trans fat content directly gluten to relax.
dry before the appropriate color is reached. There are many options when it comes to great way to stay ahead of schedule, elimi- underneath the saturated fat content on the
retarding laminated dough. Retarding allows nating the need to shape the pastry every nutrition label. Trans fat naturally occurs in The Shaping Process
It is often advantageous to start the baking the process to be stopped or slow down at a day. It does require more space than freezing After the final folds have been given to the
many foods but is significantly increased
of laminated dough at a high temperature number of points. in bulk and, therefore, may not be the right laminated dough, a final resting period is nec-
with the use of hydrogenated fats.
to encourage steam from the fat. The tem- choice for every bakery. essary to allow the gluten to relax before the
perature can then be lowered to finish the Retarding in bulk Lamination final shaping is done. During the final shaping
bake without achieving too much color on The first option is to retard the dough in bulk. A normal process is used up to the point of After the fat has been enclosed into the dough process the dough will be sheeted thinner than
the crust. Baking at too hot of a temperature This may be done before or after lamination. If shaping. The product is then placed directly piece it is time to begin giving the dough its during any other stage. If the dough is not
will cause too dark of a color and, if taken done before lamination, the dough is placed at in the freezer, covered and protected from the folds, or what the French call tourage.This is the sufficiently relaxed, it will be very elastic and
from the oven too early, the structure of the refrigerator temperature one hour after mix- environment. When ready to bake, the pastry idea of rolling the dough thinner and folding tend to shrink after the dough is cut. It is also
pastry will be prone to collapsing. ing. After 12-16 hours in the refrigerator, the is defrosted in the refrigerator or at room tem- it onto itself to create multiple layers of fat in helpful to have the dough chilled so it doesn’t
dough is laminated. If retarded after lamination perature before being proofed and baked. between multiple layers of dough, creating a Single fold diagram warm up during the shaping stage.
Upon removal of yeasted laminated dough it is helpful to leave on of the folds until after light and flaky pastry.
from the oven, it is important to allow the the retarding process. If the pastry is going to be in the freezer for Although there are endless variations, in
product to cool before aggressive handling a week or less, nothing has to be changed To complete a double
The dough is rolled out one of two ways. fold, the dough is general the dough is sheeted between 2-4
and especially before packing. Danish and During the retarding process, the dough will with the formula. If a longer freezing period The first option is to use a rolling pin and mm depending on the dough and the finished
croissant are much more fragile than most continue to accumulate gas and the fat will is required a dough conditioner may be sheeted slightly longer
complete the process by hand. This is often than for a single fold. The two ends are folded shape. Once the rolled dough has been placed
bread dough and can be easily crushed if lose its plasticity as it gets cold. The remaining needed to maintain the strength of the very challenging and tiring. The second and on the work surface, relax the dough so it
mishandled when still warm. fold will de-gas the dough and temper the dough. Additionally, the yeast content may toward each other so that they meet off cen-
more commonly used method in professional ter. The rectangle is then folded in half. It is shrinks before cutting, instead of after.
fat before the final sheeting and shaping. have to be increased by 1.5 to 2 times the bakeries is the use of a reversible sheeter. A
Tips for hand lamination original amount to compensate for the yeast important that the two sides are not brought to
reversible sheeter consists of two belts that feed Proofing
No matter what steps are taken, laminating Retarding shaped that will die at the freezing temperature. the exact center of the dough piece to ensure
the dough between a set of moving rollers.The Only the pastries made from yeasted laminated
by hand is never as easy as laminating with Often, the best system for a bakery is to retard When available, a blast freezer is best for even lamination.
space between the rollers is gradually reduced, dough will need to be proofed before baking.
a reversible sheeter, especially when using an the pastry after shaping. This can also be freezing raw dough.The faster the ice crystals causing the dough to get thinner and thinner. It is important to control the temperature of
artisan process. The challenge is to apply even used in combination with retarding in bulk. form, the less damage the dough will suffer. The benefit of a sheeter is that it always applies the proof box to keep the integrity of the fat
pressure using a rolling pin against a dough The shaped pastry is placed directly into a
very even pressure to the dough and it can roll layers. If the proof box is too hot the layers of
that will gradually get stronger and stronger. chilled environment for a period of 12-24 Pre-proofed frozen
a strong dough much easier than a person. fat will melt into the dough and, in some cases,
hours before being proofed and baked. This Using new technology and techniques, this
A few adjustments can be made to the melt and pool on the bottom of the pan.
is a very convenient way to make laminated type of croissant is now readily available. When using a sheeter the space between the
formulation of the dough. The first is to add dough. Depending on how cold the retard- They can be put in the oven directly out Double fold Proofing can be done at room temperature
rollers should be reduced at a steady rate. If
.1% of deactivated yeast based on the weight ing room is, the pastry may be ready to go of the freezer. The process is much different diagram
but is often done in a warmer environment
the space is reduced too quickly the dough
of the total flour. The yeast will have a directly into the oven after retarding. than artisan style laminated dough, but there to speed up the process. The temperature
will be damaged. If it is reduced too slowly
reducing effect on the dough creating more is a place for everything. should not exceed 78°F, especially when
Freezing in bulk the dough will have to be passed through
extensibility. To increase the extensibility of butter is used as the roll-in fat. The humid-
Freezing the dough piece in bulk after the the rollers an excessive number of times.The
the dough, a 30 to 60 minute autolyse of What are you waiting for?
lamination process has begun can be very friction will warm up the dough and fat and ity should be set at approximately 78-80%.
the flour will be helpful. The next tip is to Laminated doughs are an easy way to Before completing a
helpful. This method allows a bakery to mix possibly harm the integrity of the layers. If too much humidity is used during the
mix the dough no further than a short mix. increase sales in the bakery and can be used second fold of either
large batches of dough once a week and proofing process there may be excessive
A longer fermentation period and the process for an endless variety of product.The pro- The amount of folds given to croissant and type the dough is
take them out of the freezer as needed. The wrinkling or blistering on the pastry.
of folding the dough will build the remaining cess is not difficult, but careful attention to Danish are generally three single folds or turned 90 degrees.
strength in the dough. dough is fermented, portioned, and given all the details is necessary for consistently good two double folds. For puff pastry 4-6 single This ensures that Baking
but one of its folds before being wrapped results. For an artisan process, remember folds are often used. the open ends of the Most laminated dough will benefit from
During the sheeting and rolling process well and frozen.The dough can be frozen to use the best ingredients available and dough piece are going through the sheeter. a simple wash of egg before baking to aid
extended periods of rest in the refrigera- for up to a week when no conditioners or combine them with good fermentation and Keep in mind that more is not better when If the folded piece is elongated towards the in the coloration of the crust. Egg washing
tor will allow the gluten to relax to the full additives are used. It is then defrosted over- proper lamination. it comes to folding the dough. Each time the folded ends, the strength of the dough will the pastry before and after proofing will add
extent before attempting to roll it again. night in the refrigerator. When ready to dough is sheeted the layers of fat get thinner cause bowing or rounding. This makes it additional color and encourage a more even
When sheeting by hand, allow for a 45 min- shape, the final fold is given and the process Many people have never tasted a truly good and thinner. If the dough is folded too many difficult to properly align the dough during coat of egg wash.
ute rest between every fold. continues as normal. croissant or Danish and will be shocked at how times the layers of fat will eventually get so folding. Two folds can be done immediately
delicious they can be when made properly. thin that they are practically absorbed into the after one another if the dough is well chilled
dough. This will result in a more bread like and extensible.
interior instead of a flaky honeycomb texture. continued on page 8
8 5
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6 7
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● SFBI offers special rates at select hotels near our campus. Most of these hotels offer direct shuttle service to and from our school. Please see our website ��
www.sfbi.com for a complete list or call us at 650.589.5784 for details.
6 7
Many people have never tasted a truly good croissant or Danish and It is important to keep in mind that more is not better when it
will be shocked at how delicious they can be when made properly. comes to folding the dough.
continued from page 5 As a general rule, the biggest challenge is During the freezing process the dough will Be aware The diagram below represents the single fold. If the environment is warm the dough
to apply even pressure to the dough when lose strength due to the crystallization of Although it probably won’t make a signifi- The dough is first sheeted approximately three should be chilled in between every fold to
The baking temperature should not be too
rolling. If too much downward force is water. The final fold after defrosting will cant difference in the preferences of most times as long as it is wide. One third of the allow for the fat to stay cold. If more than
cold. If it is too cold the butter will melt
applied to the dough piece, the lamination rebuild some of that strength. consumers, the FDA is requiring that by dough is folded into the center of the piece two folds are going to be done, the dough
instead of creating steam and the final result
and layers will be damaged. January 1, 2006, all foods that contain at and the remaining third is folded on top of should be allowed to relax after the first
may be heavy and greasy. Additionally, if the Freezing shaped least .5 grams of trans fat per serving, will be that. That is the completion of one single fold. dough to allow the fat to stay cold and the
pastry is baked too cold the pastry will be Retarding options Freezing the laminated pastry shaped is a required to list the trans fat content directly gluten to relax.
dry before the appropriate color is reached. There are many options when it comes to great way to stay ahead of schedule, elimi- underneath the saturated fat content on the
retarding laminated dough. Retarding allows nating the need to shape the pastry every nutrition label. Trans fat naturally occurs in The Shaping Process
It is often advantageous to start the baking the process to be stopped or slow down at a day. It does require more space than freezing After the final folds have been given to the
many foods but is significantly increased
of laminated dough at a high temperature number of points. in bulk and, therefore, may not be the right laminated dough, a final resting period is nec-
with the use of hydrogenated fats.
to encourage steam from the fat. The tem- choice for every bakery. essary to allow the gluten to relax before the
perature can then be lowered to finish the Retarding in bulk Lamination final shaping is done. During the final shaping
bake without achieving too much color on The first option is to retard the dough in bulk. A normal process is used up to the point of After the fat has been enclosed into the dough process the dough will be sheeted thinner than
the crust. Baking at too hot of a temperature This may be done before or after lamination. If shaping. The product is then placed directly piece it is time to begin giving the dough its during any other stage. If the dough is not
will cause too dark of a color and, if taken done before lamination, the dough is placed at in the freezer, covered and protected from the folds, or what the French call tourage.This is the sufficiently relaxed, it will be very elastic and
from the oven too early, the structure of the refrigerator temperature one hour after mix- environment. When ready to bake, the pastry idea of rolling the dough thinner and folding tend to shrink after the dough is cut. It is also
pastry will be prone to collapsing. ing. After 12-16 hours in the refrigerator, the is defrosted in the refrigerator or at room tem- it onto itself to create multiple layers of fat in helpful to have the dough chilled so it doesn’t
dough is laminated. If retarded after lamination perature before being proofed and baked. between multiple layers of dough, creating a Single fold diagram warm up during the shaping stage.
Upon removal of yeasted laminated dough it is helpful to leave on of the folds until after light and flaky pastry.
from the oven, it is important to allow the the retarding process. If the pastry is going to be in the freezer for Although there are endless variations, in
product to cool before aggressive handling a week or less, nothing has to be changed To complete a double
The dough is rolled out one of two ways. fold, the dough is general the dough is sheeted between 2-4
and especially before packing. Danish and During the retarding process, the dough will with the formula. If a longer freezing period The first option is to use a rolling pin and mm depending on the dough and the finished
croissant are much more fragile than most continue to accumulate gas and the fat will is required a dough conditioner may be sheeted slightly longer
complete the process by hand. This is often than for a single fold. The two ends are folded shape. Once the rolled dough has been placed
bread dough and can be easily crushed if lose its plasticity as it gets cold. The remaining needed to maintain the strength of the very challenging and tiring. The second and on the work surface, relax the dough so it
mishandled when still warm. fold will de-gas the dough and temper the dough. Additionally, the yeast content may toward each other so that they meet off cen-
more commonly used method in professional ter. The rectangle is then folded in half. It is shrinks before cutting, instead of after.
fat before the final sheeting and shaping. have to be increased by 1.5 to 2 times the bakeries is the use of a reversible sheeter. A
Tips for hand lamination original amount to compensate for the yeast important that the two sides are not brought to
reversible sheeter consists of two belts that feed Proofing
No matter what steps are taken, laminating Retarding shaped that will die at the freezing temperature. the exact center of the dough piece to ensure
the dough between a set of moving rollers.The Only the pastries made from yeasted laminated
by hand is never as easy as laminating with Often, the best system for a bakery is to retard When available, a blast freezer is best for even lamination.
space between the rollers is gradually reduced, dough will need to be proofed before baking.
a reversible sheeter, especially when using an the pastry after shaping. This can also be freezing raw dough.The faster the ice crystals causing the dough to get thinner and thinner. It is important to control the temperature of
artisan process. The challenge is to apply even used in combination with retarding in bulk. form, the less damage the dough will suffer. The benefit of a sheeter is that it always applies the proof box to keep the integrity of the fat
pressure using a rolling pin against a dough The shaped pastry is placed directly into a
very even pressure to the dough and it can roll layers. If the proof box is too hot the layers of
that will gradually get stronger and stronger. chilled environment for a period of 12-24 Pre-proofed frozen
a strong dough much easier than a person. fat will melt into the dough and, in some cases,
hours before being proofed and baked. This Using new technology and techniques, this
A few adjustments can be made to the melt and pool on the bottom of the pan.
is a very convenient way to make laminated type of croissant is now readily available. When using a sheeter the space between the
formulation of the dough. The first is to add dough. Depending on how cold the retard- They can be put in the oven directly out Double fold Proofing can be done at room temperature
rollers should be reduced at a steady rate. If
.1% of deactivated yeast based on the weight ing room is, the pastry may be ready to go of the freezer. The process is much different diagram
but is often done in a warmer environment
the space is reduced too quickly the dough
of the total flour. The yeast will have a directly into the oven after retarding. than artisan style laminated dough, but there to speed up the process. The temperature
will be damaged. If it is reduced too slowly
reducing effect on the dough creating more is a place for everything. should not exceed 78°F, especially when
Freezing in bulk the dough will have to be passed through
extensibility. To increase the extensibility of butter is used as the roll-in fat. The humid-
Freezing the dough piece in bulk after the the rollers an excessive number of times.The
the dough, a 30 to 60 minute autolyse of What are you waiting for?
lamination process has begun can be very friction will warm up the dough and fat and ity should be set at approximately 78-80%.
the flour will be helpful. The next tip is to Laminated doughs are an easy way to Before completing a
helpful. This method allows a bakery to mix possibly harm the integrity of the layers. If too much humidity is used during the
mix the dough no further than a short mix. increase sales in the bakery and can be used second fold of either
large batches of dough once a week and proofing process there may be excessive
A longer fermentation period and the process for an endless variety of product.The pro- The amount of folds given to croissant and type the dough is
take them out of the freezer as needed. The wrinkling or blistering on the pastry.
of folding the dough will build the remaining cess is not difficult, but careful attention to Danish are generally three single folds or turned 90 degrees.
strength in the dough. dough is fermented, portioned, and given all the details is necessary for consistently good two double folds. For puff pastry 4-6 single This ensures that Baking
but one of its folds before being wrapped results. For an artisan process, remember folds are often used. the open ends of the Most laminated dough will benefit from
During the sheeting and rolling process well and frozen.The dough can be frozen to use the best ingredients available and dough piece are going through the sheeter. a simple wash of egg before baking to aid
extended periods of rest in the refrigera- for up to a week when no conditioners or combine them with good fermentation and Keep in mind that more is not better when If the folded piece is elongated towards the in the coloration of the crust. Egg washing
tor will allow the gluten to relax to the full additives are used. It is then defrosted over- proper lamination. it comes to folding the dough. Each time the folded ends, the strength of the dough will the pastry before and after proofing will add
extent before attempting to roll it again. night in the refrigerator. When ready to dough is sheeted the layers of fat get thinner cause bowing or rounding. This makes it additional color and encourage a more even
When sheeting by hand, allow for a 45 min- shape, the final fold is given and the process Many people have never tasted a truly good and thinner. If the dough is folded too many difficult to properly align the dough during coat of egg wash.
ute rest between every fold. continues as normal. croissant or Danish and will be shocked at how times the layers of fat will eventually get so folding. Two folds can be done immediately
delicious they can be when made properly. thin that they are practically absorbed into the after one another if the dough is well chilled
dough. This will result in a more bread like and extensible.
interior instead of a flaky honeycomb texture. continued on page 8
8 5
lamination: layers beyond imagination start fresh: begin a career in baking
continued from page 3 Changing careers or want to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma in just sixteen weeks of training!
The percentage of roll-in fat used is based two pieces of heavy plastic with a roll-
I
on the dough weight. The amount of fat Fat ing pin. If processing large quantities, it is
f you are committed to starting a new
invest in your
rolled in to croissant and Danish generally easiest to soften, not cream, the butter in a
career as a baker, or enhancing your
ranges from 20-30%. If the dough is given mixer with a spiral hook or paddle, and then
Dough spread it into the desired size on a piece of
current career in the baking industry,
sufficient fermentation there is no need to
use an excessive amount of fat to produce a
great tasting item.Too much fat can lead to a
parchment, a silicone mat, or heavy plastic.
These pads of butter can then be placed in
our 16 Week Bread & Pastry Professional
Training Program will give you the foundation future
the refrigerator until needed. If they get too you need to achieve success.
greasy texture. For puff pastry, 50% of roll in fat Join a profession with a legacy
is standard but it can range from 40-100%. hard in the refrigerator they should be tempered SFBI recognizes that not every student has the
slightly by leaving out at room temperature of quality, dedication and honor
time and budget available for six months or and begin a career in an industry
To start the process, the dough should first Fat for a short period of time. Otherwise there
more of training. At the same time, you want
be spread out in a rectangle 1/2”-1” thick. Dough may be some cracking of the butter during that continues to thrive and grow
to be sure you receive the very best education
Thickness will vary with the size of the the sheeting process.
available. We designed our progressive pro- what: in any economic climate.
piece. The dough can then be covered and gram to meet these specific needs. 16 Week Bread & Pastry
When butter with a high water content Develop life-long skills in a
chilled while the fat is prepared. Professional Training Program
is used, its plasticity will be improved by
blending it with approximately 8% of bread
Our highly concentrated, focused curriculum profession that offers security,
In Europe, pre-formed fat is readily available. includes an unusually high level of hands-on flexibility and creativity.
flour based on the butter weight.
In the U.S., unless the bakery is using an
When using butter it is best to keep the practice and deliberately small class sizes. In when:
automated system, the fat must be formed Margarine our spacious facility, just a short drive from Our current session begins April 25, Train in a professional environ-
dough and fat as cold as possible. During
manually or with the aid of a press. The idea Margarine is often used as a substitute for downtown San Francisco, we offer a techno- 2005; the next session is in 2006.
the lamination process, this makes it easier ment that balances theory with
is to soften the fat just to the point that it is butter. It is cheaper, has a higher melting logically advanced, welcoming environment
pliable and very plastic, but not melting.
to work with the dough. It also prevents hands-on learning and focuses
temperature, and can be stored at room where we introduce students to artisan baking
softening or melting of the butter, which
can be detrimental to the lightness and
temperature. Margarine is made from veg- at its best. where: on the skills you need in the real
The fat should be sized to exactly half the etable oils that have been hydrogenated Train at SFBI’s facility, just a few world of baking today.
size of the dough rectangle. Once the fat is flakiness of the final product.
to make them solid at room temperature. For two weeks of our program, you will minutes from the one of the most
formed, place it directly into the center of Often, yellow coloring is added, in addition have the unique opportunity to hone your beautiful cities in the world and Working Bakers
When using shortening or margarine care
the dough rectangle and bring the outside to artificial flavors, salts, and milk solids. skills in France - the birthplace of artisan Enhance your career and your
should be taken to not let the dough get spend 2 weeks in France. Learn in
edges of the dough around the fat so they baking. This unique culinary adventure will
too cold or the fat will lose its plasticity and Margarine is more “plastic” than butter and a production-sized environment, salary with new cutting-edge
meet in the middle, as shown in the diagram introduce you to the history, tradition and
in the next column.
break up under the dough. takes less effort to form into the needed shape with small class sizes, spacious bak- skills and a deeper understanding
new, trend-setting practices of European
for lamination. It also melts at approximately baking in the best way possible: first-hand
ery classrooms and technologically of the baking arts.
Fat Choice
Next, using a heavy wooden rolling pin, 6-8 degrees higher than the temperature of experience. At the Institut National de la advanced equipment.
There are a number of fats that will achieve Aspiring Bakers
gently press on the dough starting 1” in butter, making it less fragile during the lami-
great lamination. From an artisan perspective, Boulangerie, one of France’s most respected Changing careers or opening a
from the ends, and then finishing with the nating process. Since margarine and the other
entire middle section. This will encourage
quality and flavor should be the first priority. hydrogenated fats listed below melt at temper-
baking schools, you will train with French who: bakery? The 16 Week Bread
Often, economics will play a greater role in instructors as you stay in nearby accom- Baking Instructors:
the butter and fat to move together once the atures above body temperature, they are likely ●
and Pastry Professional Training
determining not only the fat, but the quality modations with your fellow students and Jeff Yankellow and Brian Wood
dough is rolled or sheeted. It also aids in keep- to leave an unpleasant film in the mouth. Program gives you the skills
of that fat. Following are the main types of fat absorb the local culture.
ing the edge of the fat and dough lined up and knowledge you need to
used for lamination along with descriptions Roll-in Shortening
together. It is not necessary to enclose the fat
and considerations for each. Roll-in or puff pastry shortening is another why: get started.
in the dough by sealing the end of the dough choice for lamination fat that is often used Visit us on line at www.sfbi.com The only school in the United States
together. If this is done there will be dough Butter in larger bakeries. It is generally made of a for a fully detailed curriculum dedicated exclusively to artisan Owners and Bakery Managers
with no fat in between and the results may Most people agree that butter produces the hydrogenated fat that has water added, along along with informa- baking, SFBI offers you the unique Grow your business with the
appear in the final product. best tasting laminated pastry with the best with artificial flavoring, color, and, sometimes, tion about opportunity to be fully trained in employees you send to train at
eating qualities. The reason it is not always emulsifiers. The water contributes to the
If care is taken to keep the fat exactly half the used is because it is the most expensive of
tuition and just 16 weeks, in an environment SFBI. Benefit from the enthusiasm
leavening of the pastry. The emulsifiers
size of the dough rectangle, and the dough the choices, and it is the most fragile in create a waxy or plastic texture which econ- housing, where baking never takes a and loyalty that a good
is even all the way around the fat, even and terms of temperature tolerance. Butter starts omizes the rolling and folding process. or call us at backseat to other culinary learning. education brings to young
uniform layers will be achieved. If this step is 650.589.5784
to soften at about 80° F. For an artisan bakery,
Blended fat
people with an interest in their
neglected, it is hard to correct later. butter is the only choice.
More often than not, price is the deciding and ask for an how: work. Give back to the baking
From this point on it is very beneficial to When processing small quantities of dough factor in the choice of fat for lamination. application Apply on line at www.sfbi.com community and help contribute
have the dough and fat the same texture. it is best to work with the butter directly One way to get the benefits of all of the package to or call us for more information to its continued growth by
This is generally achieved with tempera- out of the refrigerator. It can be formed and previously mentioned fats is to combine them. be mailed or at 650.589.5784. helping to build the next
ture. Depending on what type of fat, the Margarine or shortening is often blended with generation of artisan bakers.
made pliable by flattening it out between emailed to you.
temperature will vary. butter to get the flavor without too much cost.
4 9
farewell: from didier lamination: layers beyond imagination
continued from page 1
T
The flavors and dough characteristics are For the yeasted forms of laminated dough
he time has come from and consulting. equal to when using a preferment. As I will there are two schools of thought. Because
me to move on to the explain later, it is best to work with the fermentation is going to be a factor in build-
next chapter in my life. I know SFBI is in good hands with Jeff and
dough cold during the lamination process. ing strength in the dough, the dough should
I have been given the perfect Brian.The standards of quality and the mission
never be taken beyond the improved mix
opportunity to grow as an indi- instilled by Michel will remain the same. I am If a preferment will be used, with or with- stage or medium gluten development. If
vidual and as a baker in a new sure I will cross paths with many of you in the out fermenting the dough in the refrigerator the dough is taken to full development the
environment. future. I will be involved with SFBI for classes overnight, the choice of preferment is up to
Didier Rosada dough may have an excess of strength and
Head Instructor and consulting. I can be contacted at the same the baker. Traditionally, sponge is used for elasticity that will create challenges during
I am joining Uptown Bakers email address: didier@sfbi.com sweet doughs, as the flavor and strength it the shaping stage. Intensive mixing may also
in Washington, D.C. as Vice President of provides is a good match.
Thank you for all the good times we cause an excess of volume during the bak-
Operations. This position will advance my
have had, and will continue to have in the ing, resulting in a finished texture that lacks
skills on the operational side of the bakery A poolish by itself or a poolish combined
future! substance and body.
business and also will allow me to continue with another preferment is a great way to
with my other passions, including teaching -- Didier increase the extensibility sometimes created Some bakers only mix their croissant and
by stronger flours during the folding process. Danish in first speed until good incorpo-
No matter which technique is used, remem- ration is achieved. The dough is given a
ber that the fermentation of the dough is as long first fermentation and the strength of
important as the lamination. the dough is achieved through the folding
Although often considered “sweet dough”,
Ingredient selection process. By not mixing the dough too much,
croissants and Danish actually contain a
extensibility is not sacrificed. There is also
“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread Fat choice used for lamination will be moderate amount of sugar. White granulated
very little oxidation and great flavor due
discussed later in this article. At this point, sugar is typically the sweetener of choice,
with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” it is important to understand the other main but brown sugar is an easy way to create a
to the short mixing. The result in the baked
ingredients used in lamination, the most pastry is smaller volume and a slightly heavier,
James Beard (1903-1985) new flavor profile for any laminated dough.
important being the flour. Think of laminated but acceptable, texture. The overall appear-
dough like bread. The goal is to create a If the laminated dough is yeasted, any form ance may not look as sharp, but still retains
dough with sufficient fermentation tolerance of yeast may be used in the right propor- generally nice visual and eating qualities.
help a student: buy a proofing basket! that provides a good balance of elasticity and
extensibility. The best choice is to use an
tion. Because of the levels of sugar and fat
in these doughs it is necessary to use higher
The other route to take is to mix the dough
to a medium stage of gluten development,
artisan-style bread flour made from hard amounts of sugar than are typically used in
or the improved mix. This creates dough
lean dough. If the sugar is above 12% based
T
winter wheat with a protein level between with more strength out of the mixer, allowing
hanks to a donation from Trader 10.5 and 12%. The same flour used for the on the weight of the total flour, osmotoler-
for reduced fermentation time. Fermentation
Joe’s, SFBI is happy to offer a line All proceeds go to Rattan banneton baskets bread in the bakery should be perfect. ant yeast may be a good choice to keep the
flavors and benefits can still be achieved by
of high-quality proofing baskets lined with linen: proofing process moving at a faster rate.
as a fund-raiser for our new Scholarship the non-profit Depending on the type of pastry, milk may
Mixing
fermenting over a 12-18 hour period in the
refrigerator or by using preferments. If a good
Organization. All proceeds from the sales Sizes: or may not be used. Typically, croissant
of these baskets will go directly to our non- San Francisco is made with a blend of milk and water. The first step of the baking process that affects quality artisan flour is used, there still won’t
8” Diameter - 4-1/4” H: TRA-B8 the lamination is the mixing of the dough. In be any problems with extensibility, and if there
profit scholarship organization, which helps Baking Scholarship Dough Weight: 1 to 1.5 lbs.
Danish usually is made with all milk. Puff
pastries are generally made with all water, the category of non-yeasted dough there are is a problem with a certain flour, the right
economically challenged students with their Price: $8.00 each
baking education tuition at SFBI. Organization. but certain varieties contain some white generally two levels of development. For yeasted
dough, there are wide-ranging opinions and
preferment can correct it.
10” Diameter - 4-3/4” H: TRA-B10 wine.Whole milk is the best choice for flavor The finished pastry will have slightly more
and richness, but it may be substituted with possibilities. For traditional, inverted, and blitz
Your purchase will help a student who is Dough Weight: 1.5 to 2 lbs. volume than the short mix dough and the
any variety, including dry. Just remember forms of puff pastry, the dough is mixed as
passionate about baking and pastry afford Price: $10.00 each honeycomb interior will be lighter and more
to compensate with water when using dry little as possible in order to incorporate the
professional training - and it’s tax deduct- open. Regardless of which technique is used, a
12” Diameter - 6” H: TRA-B12 milk. Milk provides flavor, richness, and ingredients, and no more.
ible! Please help SFBI build our scholarship TRA-B12 high quality dough can be achieved.
fund for the many deserving students who Dough Weight: 3 to 4 lbs. color. The lower the fat content of the milk,
There is no need to develop the gluten Incorporating the fat
need a little help with tuition by placing an Price: $12.00 each the less these benefits will be seen.
in the mixer since puff pastry is given at Once the dough has finished fermenting (or
order for baskets today! Call 650.589.5724 TRA-B8
TRA-B10 Eggs are an additional hydrating ingredient least four turns during the lamination pro- resting in the case of puff pastry) it is time
to place your order. Quantities are limited, Call 650.589.5724 to order.
that may be added to croissant dough but cess, which builds sufficient strength in the to start creating the layers of fat that give
so order soon! Quantities are limited,
are generally reserved more for Danish and dough. The exceptions are forms of puff laminated dough its defining characteristics.
so order soon!
laminated brioche. They are added to the pastry that usually contain eggs and The same techniques and principles apply to
Italian form of puff pastry. Eggs add color, additional ingredients and are intensively yeasted and non-yeasted varieties.
flavor, richness, and strength. mixed to build strength in the dough.
continued on page 4
10 3
from michel: recipe of the season: croissant with poolish
about us: the ethics of “poaching”
sfbi Michel Suas, Founder/President
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ince 1996, the San “poacher” targeted Oftentimes, I receive calls for a baker’s ��
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Francisco Baking SFBI. Our head position opening and I know a lot of baker
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instructor, Didier “assistants” or “head bakers” who would fit ��
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Institute (SFBI) has Rosada, got an offer he the job. However, I do not say anything ��
could not turn down, and, because I know that most bakeries, especially ��
trained hundreds of profes-
I must say, I would have smaller ones, depend on key staff members, ��
sional and aspiring bakers taken the position, too. who are a big part of their operation, and ��
Michel Suas
from all over the world. We Reading these lines, I do not necessarily have the resources and ��
am sure some of you will structure to immediately or effectively ��
��
I
have acted as the unofficial think, “I should have offered Didier a job.” replace someone. ��
f you enjoy a great croissant, try this ��
However, you did not. I want to thank you
training site for several for it! A more beneficial exchange would help to variation with a poolish. Most bakers ��
��
use a poolish for their baguette, and ��
award-winning Baking USA both promote good workers and provide ��
��
You know how much SFBI brings to the goals to entry-level bakers to show them it works equally as well to produce an ��
Teams and hosted a variety baking industry by giving support to both how far they can advance. The next time irresistible croissant dough. Don’t stop
��
smaller bakeries and larger ones. Besides, you, as a owner or chef, see an ad that could with the croissant; try using it for rum ��
of international groups—from raisin rolls or chocolate praline rolls, too! ��
you know that taking a key staff member benefit one of your employees, share the
countries including Russia, from a small organization like SFBI could be information. Show that you are supporting
��
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viewed as unfair. Especially when flashing all their skills and hard work and education in ��
China and Japan—interested
the big dollar signs that SFBI cannot afford. the baking industry.
in bringing artisan baking
However, rest assured that the San Francisco Furthermore, if your employees show
back to their homelands. Baking Institute is not in difficulty; we have potential, send them to seminars or similar
SFBI is recognized within talented people in place. Our mission is still
the same as it was at our inception. Our
educational classes to polish their skills and
better themselves. They will be ready to take
“Blues is to jazz what yeast is to bread. Without it, it’s flat.”
the baking industry as a place philosophy remains the same, too: independent, on new challenges within your workplace. Carmen McRae, Jazz vocalist and pianist (1920-1994)
where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

at any cost - raising the bar constantly by All that said, I do wish Didier good luck in
respected, appreciated and
baker’s tip: making the baker’s life easier
listening to your needs. We have lots of his new endeavor. We support his success.
exciting new ideas and commitments for I know we will see him again at the San
celebrated. We are passionate Francisco Baking Institute for visits and
2005 and beyond.
about sharing our knowledge various projects. He is addicted to us. by Jeffrey Yankellow, Baking & Pastry Instructor
I would like to talk a little bit about “poach- --Michel Suas
and enthusiasm with students
D
ing.” Everyone can be a victim of it by a
and clients in an effort to
raise the level of the craft.
chef/owner or recruiter, who decides to
go through the back door to tempt away career eciding to own or even
just work in a bakery has
traditionally destined the
In a bakery that makes croissants, Danish, bear claws,
cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, and a variety of sweet
rolls, all can be made with croissant.
another company’s employees. I must say
that it is something I never saw in France
while working in restaurants or bakeries.
opportunity baker to a life of long hours in the
middle of the night. Motivated by Unlike the simple croissant, these other products
First of all, if an owner or chef needed the desire to have a friendlier sched- have fillings and glazes which generally have more
Are you an experienced baking & pastry Jeffrey Yankellow ule and workload, techniques such of an impact on the consumer’s buying decision
someone they would call other chef/owners
instructor looking for an exciting new as retarding and freezing are used than whether or not the Danish is made from a true
to find out if they had a person available to
opportunity? SFBI is now hiring! more and more. One way to lighten the load in the Danish dough.
promote. In addition, if a chef/owner had
an employee who had reached a high level bakery, especially in smaller operations with limited
Please forward your resume to: employees, is to cross utilize the staple preparations. You can even add a small percentage of eggs to the
of competency and they did not have a
San Francisco Baking Institute Croissant dough is a perfect example of how this croissant to give it more body and richness. It will
position open for such a skilled worker, they
480 Grandview Drive works. It is a classic product that, in its best forms, still be suitable for croissants and work great for
would assist him finding a place worth his
South San Francisco, CA 94080 reveals subtle fermentation, a honeycomb interior, everything else. If it tastes great the customer may
talents, opening doors for him to improve
pure butter flavor, and a light flaky texture. Sounds even like it better and the baker gets to save himself
and evolve in his field. Or email Michel Suas at: good right? So why not use the same dough for a lot of work!
michel@sfbi.com more than just croissants?
2 11
Happy Spring from SFBI!
What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005
lamination: layers beyond imagination

by Jeffrey Yankellow - Baking & Pastry Instructor
O
South San Francisco, CA 94080
480 Grandview Drive ften the difference between a good crois- Assuming the rest of the process is done properly, the better the
San Francisco Baking Institute sant and a great croissant lies in the lamination, the better the pastry. Lamination is not difficult, but, just
details. A great artisan croissant has the as with any other part of the baking process, it is attention to detail
flavors and aromas of long fermentation; smells that makes the difference. Ideal flakiness is created when many layers
and tastes of high quality butter; and has a deep of dough are separated by thin layers of fat. The fat creates lightness
golden brown color. And, most importantly, a because the water in the fat creates steam, which helps “lift” the layers.
Permit No. 855
San Francisco, CA great croissant is light and flaky. The thin deli- For un-yeasted laminated dough, such as puff pastry, steam is the sole
PAID cate crust should be in balance with the moist, source of leavening.
U.S. POSTAGE Jeffrey Yankellow honeycomb interior. The weight should be fairly
PRSRT STD
Baking & Pastry Instructor
light relative to the volume, and the layers of dough What a great idea!
should be clearly visible along the rolled edges of There is no concrete evidence of when lamination became a standard
the pastry. There are many factors that lead to the perfect croissant, bakery process. One of the most well-known laminated pastries, the
starting with the choice of ingredients, mixing methods and fer- croissant, wasn’t originally made from a laminated dough. It origi-
mentation schedule. But the defining moment is often the one that nated in Austria, but was not laminated until the 1920’s by French
San Francisco Baking Institute pastry chefs looking to improve the quality.
SFBI INSTRUCTORS Baking and Pastry Arts School for Professionals & Enthusiasts takes the most effort: the process of lamination.
480 Grandview Drive What is lamination? Lamination can be described as the process of It is also interesting to note that Western civilizations are not alone
South San Francisco, CA 94080 layering fat and dough through a series of folds, to achieve a flaky in using lamination for pastry. One of the fundamental Chinese pastry
phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729 structure and increased volume. The result is a light, flaky pastry doughs is a flaky pastry that uses lard or oil and a similar technique
www.sfbi.com that is hard to match in terms of pure, simple goodness. Any type to accomplish the same goal of layering dough and fat to create a
of dough can be laminated, but the most common and familiar are crisp and delicate encasement for a sweet or savory filling.
croissant, Danish, and puff pastry. Brioche is joining that list but is
Where to start
often overlooked for its more traditional form.
The best place to start to explain lamination is to establish some
Jeffrey Yankellow Brian Wood
standard principles. Laminated dough can be yeasted or non-yeasted,
Baking & Pastry
Instructor
Baking & Pastry
Instructor “The fine arts are five in number, namely: but the fundamentals are the same for both. Examples of the yeasted
O ur talented instructors are dedicated painting, sculpture, are croissant and Danish. Puff pastry is the most familiar form of
to providing a comprehensive learn-
WHAT’S RISING THIS SEASON ... poetry, music, and
non-yeasted.
ing experience that combines the
value of hands-on training with the equally
● lamination: layers beyond imagination architecture, the Fermentation
It is important to note that for yeasted dough, good lamination will
important experience of individual baking ● 2005 course calendar principal branch not replace the benefits of long fermentation. Bakers must start with
creativity. Our class sizes are deliberately smaller of the latter a well-fermented dough that has had an extended first fermentation
than most other culinary schools, so that we can recipe of the season: croissant with poolish or been made using a preferment. For convenience, try mixing a
provide you with better opportunities for interac-
●
being pastry.” straight dough and allowing it to ferment in the refrigerator over-
tion with your instructor and fellow students. ● special offer on proofing baskets night. This allows the fermentation to happen without the baker
Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
(1755-1826) having to wait during a shift.
● baker’s tip and more!
continued on page 3
What’s Rising is designed and edited by

Jennifer Donahue Marketing Communications
www.jenniferdonahue.com
what’s inside: lamination, 2005 course schedule, seasonal recipe, baker’s tip,
special offer on proofing baskets and more ...
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Happy Spring from SFBI!

What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

lamination: layers beyond imagination

What’s Rising is designed and edited by

where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

��

quick class facts

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quick class facts

where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

lamination: layers beyond imagination

What’s Rising is designed and edited by

You might also like

LaminatingDough SFBINewsSp05

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LaminatingDough SFBINewsSp05

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Copyright:

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LaminatingDough SFBINewsSp05

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Happy Spring from SFBI!

What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

lamination: layers beyond imagination

What’s Rising is designed and edited by

where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

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quick class facts

where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education

What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

lamination: layers beyond imagination

What’s Rising is designed and edited by

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