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Study of Thermal Comfort Properties of Cotton/Regenerated Bamboo Knitted

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African Journal of Basic & Applied Sciences 4 (2): 60-66, 2012
ISSN 2079-2034
© IDOSI Publications, 2012
DOI: 10.5829/idosi.ajbas.2012.4.2.1032

Study of Thermal Comfort Properties of Cotton/Regenerated Bamboo Knitted Fabrics

1
Prakash Chidambaram, 2Ramakrishnan Govindan and 1Koushik Chandramouli Venkatraman

1
Department of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem 636005, India
2
TIFAC-CORE, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore 641006, India

Abstract: This paper presents the thermal comfort properties of single jersey knitted fabric structures made from
cotton, regenerated bamboo and cotton-bamboo blended yarns. Cotton, bamboo fibre and blends of the two
fibres (100% cotton, 100% bamboo, 50:50 cotton: bamboo, 67:33 cotton: bamboo, 33:67 cotton: bamboo) were
spun into yarns of identical linear density (20 tex). Each of the yarns so produced was converted to single
jersey knitted fabrics with loose, medium and tight structures. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics was
generally found to decrease with increase in the proportion of bamboo fibre. The water vapour permeability and
air permeability of the fabrics were observed to increase with increase in bamboo fibre content. Statistical
analysis also indicates that the results are significant for air permeability, thermal resistance, thermal
conductivity and water vapour permeability of the fabrics.

Key words: Bamboo fibres % Thermal conductivity and resistance % Air permeability % Water vapour
permeability

INTRODUCTION count, yarn twist and the combing process influence

Knitting is the process of forming fabric by inter-
looping yarn in a series of connected loops by means of
needles. Knit fabrics provide outstanding comfort
qualities due to their inherent softness and flexibility and
have long been preferred in many types of clothing.
Generally, comfort is defined as “the absence of
displeasure or discomfort”, or “a neutral state compared
to the more active state of pleasure” [1]. In addition,
comfort is imparted by the extensible looped structure;
knits also provide lightweight warmth, wrinkle resistance
and ease of care [2].
With increasing demand for garment comfort, many
studies have focussed on the comfort properties of
fabrics [3-6]. It was showed that there is an optimum fibre
diameter, closely matched by penguin feathers, at which
the fibrous materials are at their best in blocking thermal
radiation [7]. Some researchers have also studied the
effect of micro-denier fibre on the comfort aspects of
fabrics and reported that micro-denier fibres give lower
thermal conductivity and higher thermal resistance [8, 9].
It was studied the thermal comfort properties of
cotton-angora rabbit fibre blended rib-knitted fabrics and
found that the mixing of Angora fibre beyond 25%
affected the thermal comfort properties significantly [10].
It was experimentally verified that yarn properties like yarn
different thermal comfort properties of 1x1 rib-knitted
fabrics [11]. They compared the thermal properties of 1x1,
2x2 and 3x3 rib structures and found that heat loss
decreased with the reduction in rib number, a finding that
is ascribed to increased amount of air entrapped in a fabric
of bulkier structure. If the structure between the rib-knit
stitches (front and back stitch) has a flat shape, the use of
1×1 rib and a tight structure would provide better thermal
insulation against cold weather [12]. It was studied the
thermo-physiological properties of interlock-knitted
fabrics produced with air-jet textured, false-twist textured
and non-textured filament polyester yarns and found that
the thermal resistance of textured fabrics is higher than
the fabrics produced with non-textured filaments [13].
They developed a theoretical model to predict the
thermal conductivity of knitted structures in terms of
porosity, thickness and moisture content. They found
that the thermal conductivity of a dry plain-knitted fabric
decreases with increase in porosity. However, with
increasing water content, the increase in porosity
contributes to an increase in thermal conductivity [3].
It was proved that fabric thickness, enclosed still air
and external air movement are the major factors that
affect heat transfer through fabric [1]. It was noted that
thermal insulation increases with decrease in fabric
density [14].

Corresponding Author: Prakash Chidambaram, Department of Fashion Technology,

Sona College of Technology, Salem 636005, India.
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 African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012
It was compared the thermal comfort of single jersey,
1×1 rib and interlock structures. The general conclusion
of this study was that 1×1 rib and interlock fabrics, due to
their high thermal insulation values, should be preferred
for winter garments in order to ensure protection from the
cold. Between 1×1 rib and interlock fabrics, it would be
better to use 1×1 rib fabrics for a warmer feeling on first
contact. On the other hand, single jersey structures are
more suited for active sports or summer garments [15].
The thermal contact feelings of fleecy knitted fabrics in
four different compositions were investigated [16]. They
found that the thermal contact feeling of fleecy fabrics is
strongly affected by the raising treatment, which is the
final process of making typical fleecy fabrics. The yarn
type and fibre blend (pure cotton and PET/cotton)
appears to be less important.
It was investigated the influence of fibre morphology
and yarn and fabric structures on transient thermal
properties and friction behaviour. In order to measure
warm-cool feeling, they used an apparatus based on the
hot guarded plate technique. They found that the contact
interfacial area between skin and fabric is small for rough
fabrics and more air is entrapped on a fabric surface with
high hairiness, so these fabrics give a warmer feeling.
They also stated that structural roughness and warm-cool
feelings of fabrics change according to fibre type and
yarn and fabric structure [17].
Bamboo and bamboo-cotton blended yarns play a
prominent role whenever natural products are considered
and they are the most likely selections where a soft look
or a soft feel is required. Bamboo fibre yarns too provide
the desirable properties of good absorbency, antimicrobial
and soft feel in conventional and home textiles and
garments [18, 19].
The single jersey knitted fabric is ideal for next-to-
the-skin wear, since it possesses high extensibility under
low loading conditions which allows it fit snugly and
without discomfort on any form on which [20]. The work
was aimed to investigate the influence of the bamboo
content and compare the thermal comfort parameters of
single jersey knitted fabrics made from 100% cotton yarn,
100% bamboo and bamboo/cotton blended yarns.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Materials: The experimental part of the present study of
investigating the influence of the bamboo content in
bamboo/cotton blends at different stages in spinning fibre
to yarn was carried out at the TIFAC-CORE Textile
Research Centre and Centre of Excellence for Textiles,
Kuamarguru College of Technology (KCT), Coimbatore,
61
Tamilnadu, India. Sankar-6 cotton, used in the production
of the yarn and fabric samples, was obtained from a
spinning mill; the mean fibre properties were found to be:
fibre length 27.27 mm, fibre length uniformity ratio 49.58%,
fibre fineness 4.52 ìg/in, fibre maturity 82.53% and trash
content 0.19%. The bamboo fibre chosen for the study
had the quality characteristics: fibre length 36 mm, linear
density 0.155 tex, moisture regain 11.42% and elongation
21.2%. Besides preparing 100% bamboo and 100% cotton
yarns, blended yarn of blend proportions 67:33, 50:50
and 33:67 bamboo: cotton were also prepared for the
study. It was ensured that all of the yarns produced had
the same mean linear density of 20 tex.
Production of Knitted Fabric: The above yarns were used
to produce single jersey fabrics on Meyer and Cie knitting
machines of the following details: Single jersey machine,
model MV4, gauge 24 GG, diameter 23”, speed 30 rpm,
feeders 74 and number of needles 1728; the ambient
knitting-room atmosphere had a humidity of 65% and a
temperature of 30±2°C. Samples were produced with three
different loop-length values of 3.1 mm, 2.9 mm and 2.7 mm
to obtain tight, medium and loose fabrics respectively.
The knitting process was completed with constant
machine settings and the samples were kept in standard
atmosphere for 24 hours to allow for relaxation and
conditioning.
Testing: The fabric structural and physical fabric
properties like aerial density (ASTM D 3776), thickness
(ASTM D 1777), wales and courses per unit length
(ASTM D 3887: 1996 (RA 2008)) and loop length (ASTM
D 3887) were evaluated (Table 1). The fabrics were
measured for their stitch length, aerial density in g/m2
and fabric thickness at different places with the help of
Shirley thickness gauge. The aerial density of the knitted
fabrics was measured by cutting the sample size of
10x10 cm. The sample was weighed in the electronic
balance and the value was multiplied by 100. The loop
length was derived by unravelling 12 courses and their
total length was measured. The average loop length or
stitch length was calculated using the formula i.e., Total
length x No. of wales / 12. The loop shape factor was
calculated by the ratio of course/inch and wales/inch.
The thermal comfort properties (thermal conductivity,
thermal resistance, water vapour permeability and air
permeability) of the fabrics were also evaluated. The
Alambeta instrument was used to measure thermal
conductivity, fabric thickness and thermal resistance. In
this instrument the fabric is kept between the hot and cold
plates according to ISO11092. The hot plate comes in
 African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012
Table 1: Statistical comparison
Air permeability
------------------------------
Process variable F value F value
Loop length 79.73 111.16
Blend ratio 3959.07 163.48
* Significant for " = 0.0
contact with the fabric sample at a pressure of 200 Pa.
As soon as the hot plate touches the fabric surface, the
amount of heat flow from the hot surface to the cold
surface through the fabric is detected by heat flux
sensors. There is also a sensor, which measures the
thickness of the fabric. These values are then used to
calculate the thermal resistance of fabric. The water
vapour permeability was measured on a Permetest
instrument according to ISO 11092. The instrument works
on the principle of heat flux sensing. The temperature of
the measuring head is maintained at room temperature
for isothermal conditions. When water flows into the
measuring head, some amount of heat is lost. This
instrument measures the heat loss from the measuring
head due to the evaporation of water in bare condition
and with being covered by the fabric. Then the relative
water vapour permeability is calculated from the ratio of
the latter to that of former (ASTM E96). Air permeability
of the fabric has been measured using TEXTEST FX 3300
air permeability tester at a pressure of 100Pa; ASTM D737
has been followed. All measurements were performed
under the standard atmospheric conditions 20°±2°C and
65±2% RH. Ten readings were taken for each of the
knitted fabrics and then the averages were calculated.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Statistical Data Analysis: Evaluation of the test
results was made using SPSS 10.0 for Windows
statistical software. The study for each thermal property
(air permeability, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity
and water vapour permeability) was examined by two-way
analysis of variance (ANOVA) with a confidence level
of 99%. In this study, the statistical significance of
fabric characteristics were explained (Table 1). Statistical
analysis also indicates that the results are significant
for air permeability, thermal resistance and thermal
conductivity and water vapour permeability of the fabrics.
Structural and Physical Properties of the Knitted
Fabrics: It may be gleaned from the data in Table 2 that
fabric thickness, fabric weight and loop shape factor show
a decreasing trend with increase in bamboo fibre content
Thermal resistance Thermal conductivity Watervapour permeability
----------------------------- ---------------------------- -------------------------------
F value P value F value P value F value P value
111.16 .000* 70.97 .000* 177.60 .000*
163.48 .000* 114.33 .000* 167.82 .000*
in the fabric, while the number of courses and wales per
unit length increases, for all the loop lengths investigated.
These observations are substantiated by the findings of
authors [21-23], who found that for yarns with the same
linear density, the yarn diameter decreases as the
proportion of bamboo fibre increases. This has been
attributed to the lower flexural rigidity of bamboo fibres as
also to the better packing of fibres in the yarn structure as
the bamboo content is increased. Another observation is
that for a given yarn composition, increase in loop length
causes a decrease in fabric weight, fabric thickness and
the number of courses and wales per unit length. This is
in accordance with established understanding of knitted
fabric behaviour.
Thermal Comfort Properties of the Knitted Fabrics: The
fabric properties are given in Table 3.
Air Permeability: Figure 1 shows the air-permeability
values of all the fabrics under study. The results indicate
that 100% bamboo fabrics have the highest air-
permeability values. Air permeability is an important
property of textiles which influences the flow of vapour
from the human body to the environment and the flow of
fresh air to the body. The results showed that for a fabric
of given composition, the air permeability increases as the
fabrics become looser. Also, air permeability increases
with the bamboo fibre content in the fabric, irrespective of
the loop length. The improvement is more marked when
the bamboo fibre increases from 67% to 100%. The air
permeability of the 100 % bamboo fabric is around 200 %
that of the cotton for all the loop lengths. It may be noted
from Table 2 that the thickness and weight of bamboo
blended fabrics decrease with bamboo fibre content.
They are also lower than those of the cotton fabrics made
from yarn of the same count. These factors contributed to
higher air permeability.
Thermal Conductivity: Thermal conductivity is an
intrinsic property of a material that indicates its ability to
conduct heat. It is the flux of heat (energy per unit area
per unit time) divided by the temperature gradient. It may
be observed from the Figure 2 that as the proportion of
62
 African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

Table 2: Structural and physical properties of the knitted fabric samples

S.No. Loop length (mm) Blend Thickness (mm) Weight (g/m2) Courses/Inch (CPI) Wales/Inch (WPI)
1 3.1 mm (Loose) 100 % Cotton 0.755 111.0 38 26
2 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 0.685 105.0 41 29
3 50:50 Cotton:Bamboo 0.639 94.7 45 34
4 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 0.598 87.0 47 38
5 100% Bamboo 0.540 80.0 49 41
6 2.9 mm (Medium) 100 % Cotton 0.741 119.3 41 30
7 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 0.668 109.6 44 34
8 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 0.624 99.4 47 38
9 33:67 Cotton: Bamboo 0.587 91.5 49 41
10 100% Bamboo 0.528 85.0 50 44
11 2.7 mm (Tight) 100 % Cotton 0.713 131.0 43 34
12 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 0.653 119.0 45 37
13 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 0.609 108.5 48 40
14 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 0.565 101.5 50 44
15 100% Bamboo 0.519 94.0 52 47

Table 3: Thermal comfort properties of the knitted fabric samples

Air permeability Water vapour Thermal Thermal resistance
S.No. Loop length (mm) Blend (cm3/cm2/s) permeability (%) Conductivity (W/mK) (m2K/W x 10G3)
1 3.1 mm (Loose) 100 % Cotton 283 40.06 0.0501 21.09
2 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 316 41.11 0.0485 20.44
3 50:50 Cotton:Bamboo 358 42.55 0.0453 19.34
4 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 427 43.33 0.0431 18.08
5 100% Bamboo 574 46.68 0.0421 17.05
6 2.9 mm (Medium) 100 % Cotton 278 42.03 0.0480 22.13
7 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 301 43.12 0.0452 21.11
8 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 342 44.61 0.0430 20.33
9 33:67 Cotton: Bamboo 414 45.06 0.0410 19.21
10 100% Bamboo 558 48.04 0.0401 18.09
11 2.7 mm (Tight) 100 % Cotton 265 44.15 0.0463 23.26
12 67:33 Cotton: Bamboo 293 45.05 0.0430 22.01
13 50:50 Cotton: Bamboo 333 46.25 0.0421 21.98
14 33:67 Cotton:Bamboo 401 47.03 0.0401 20.01
15 100% Bamboo 542 49.28 0.0381 19.13

yarns. Besides, the porosity of the bamboo blended

Fig. 1: Air permeability values of the knitted fabrics
bamboo fibre increases the thermal conductivity of the
knitted fabrics reduces. As observed by them [19],
bamboo yarns are less hairy than the equivalent cotton
fabrics is generally lower than that of cotton fabrics.
Therefore, bamboo blended fabrics can be expected to
display higher thermal conductivity than fabrics made
from equivalent cotton yarns. However, the experimental
results shown in Figure 2 show a reverse trend, which
may be attributed to the inherent lower thermal
conductivity of the regenerated bamboo fibre than that of
natural cotton fibre. The specific heat or the heat capacity
per unit mass of cellulose is 1.25 kJ/kgK. However, the
morphology of cellulose fibres, whether natural or
regenerated, is responsible for their thermal conductivity.
It has been shown by them [17], that different varieties of
the same fibre type may influence changes in heat
transfer. Since physical and chemical treatments of
cellulose fibres, such as the alkaline treatment of cotton
can cause changes of fibre morphology, changes in their
thermal properties can also be expected.

63
 African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012

Fig. 2: Thermal Conductivity values of the knitted fabrics Fig. 3: Thermal resistance values of single jersey fabrics

Thermal Resistance: Thermal resistance is a measure of

a material's ability to prevent heat from flowing through it.
Under certain climatic conditions, if the thermal resistance
of clothing is low, heat energy will tend to gradually
decrease, giving rise to a cool feeling. Thermal resistance
is a very important parameter and is greatly influenced by
fabric structure. Increase in fabric thickness will result in
increase in thermal insulation, as there will be a decrease
in heat losses for the space insulated by the textile.
Thermal resistance is a function of the thickness
and thermal conductivity of a fabric. In fact the general
expectation was to observe an inverse relationship
between thermal conductivity and thermal resistance, as
for idealised conditions, R = h/8; where R is the thermal
resistance, h the thickness and 8 the thermal conductivity
[22]. However, the results reveal that as thermal
conductivity increases thermal resistance increases as
well. This is contrary to expectations and might be
explained in terms of the fabric thickness. The diameter of
bamboo fibre blended yarns is less as compared to that of
equivalent cotton yarns. Moreover the bamboo blended
yarns have lower bending rigidity; the knitted loops can
be compressed easily thereby reducing the fabrics
thickness. If the amount of increase in fabric thickness is
more than the amount of increase in thermal conductivity
(Rct = h/8), thermal resistance will also increase and a
significant increase is seen in the fabric thickness value,
respectively (Table 2). As can be seen from the results
(Table 2 and 3), as the fabric thickness increases the
thermal resistance increases. As illustrated in Figure 3, the
thermal resistance value of 100% cotton fabric is
significantly higher than the blended materials. Figure 3
showed that as the proportion of bamboo fibre in the yarn
increases, the thermal resistance of the fabric decreases.
Fig. 4: Water vapour permeability values of single jersey
fabrics
With increase in bamboo fibre proportion, the thickness
and thermal conductivity of the fabric reduces. However,
the former has preponderance over the latter and thus the
resultant ratio decreases.
Water Vapour Permeability: Water vapour permeability
of a clothing fabric is its ability to transmit vapour from
the body. If the moisture resistance is too high to transmit
heat by the transport of mass and at the same time the
thermal resistance of the textile layers considered by us is
high, the stored heat in the body cannot be dissipated
and causes an uncomfortable sensation [24]. Figure 4
showed that as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases,
the water vapour permeability increases. The higher water
vapour permeability of bamboo blended fabrics can be
attributed to the lower values of fabric mass per square
metre and thickness, which facilitate the easy passage of
the water vapour through the fabrics. The water vapour
transmission due to diffusion may also be higher for the

64
 African J. Basic & Appl. Sci., 4 (2): 60-66, 2012
bamboo fabrics as the moisture regain of bamboo fibre
is higher than that of cotton. Among the three knitted
fabrics, the tight structure has the maximum water vapour
permeability followed by the medium and loose structures.
CONCLUSION
The thermal comfort properties of single jersey fabrics
made from yarns of 100% cotton, 100% bamboo and
bamboo/ cotton blended yarns were investigated in this
study.
C It is observed that the parameters of air permeability,
thermal resistance, water vapour permeability and
thermal conductivity are significantly affected by the
fibre blend ratios.
C An increase in the bamboo fibre content in the fabric
affects the thermal comfort properties. The knitted
fabrics made from bamboo blended yarns have lower
thickness and lower mass per square metre than the
cotton fabrics.
C The thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics reduces
as the proportion of bamboo fibre increases in the
yarn.
C The water vapour permeability and air permeability
shows concomitant increase as the proportion of
bamboo fibre increases. 100% cotton fabrics have
higher air permeability and higher thermal resistance
values compared with bamboo/cotton blended
fabrics.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The authors express their sincere thanks to Textile
Research Centre, TIFAC-CORE in Textile Technology and
Machinery, of Kumaraguru College of Technology,
Coimbatore, India for permission to process all the
samples in their advanced manufacturing laboratory,
to the Textile Technology Department of Thiagarajar
Polytechnic College for performing most of the tests and
lastly to the management of Sona College of Technology
for the permission to use the laboratory facilities.
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