A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 09 l Pages 61 to 78

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

September 2022

Unveiling industry best practices

September 2022
Apparel accessories & fashion
Apparel value-addition RMG sector growing Sustainable
depreciated due to high big keeping garments are the
raw material price, sustainability at the only way forward
energy crisis forefront for our planet

HEMP REEL®
NATURAL CULTIVATION
ANTI BACTERIAL
LINEN
UV PROTECTION RESPONSIBLE ENVIRONMENT
ABSORBENT FIBRES ENHANCED LIVELIHOOD

www.kingdom-hemp.com www.kingdom-china.com
 ®

HEMP
KING OF
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PRODUCT RANGE:
■ Hemp fibre
■ Hemp yarn
■ Organic hemp yarn
■ Hemp blend yarn
■ Hemp fabrics

www.kingdom-hemp.com
®
LINEN
HEMP

REEL ®
LINEN
RESPONSIBLE ENVIRONMENT
ENHANCED LIVELIHOOD
PRODUCT RANGE:
■ Flax fibre
■ Linen yarn
■ Organic linen yarn
■ Linen blend yarn
■ Linen fabrics
Represented in Bangladesh By
TEXMINE RESOURCES LTD.
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Henggang Village, Baibu Town, Haiyan County
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www.kingdom-china.com

RMG sector growing big keeping
sustainability at the forefront
Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA
After facing so many challenges,
the readymade garments (RMG)
sector is now an industry with $42
billion in annual export turnover.
The robust growth in the RMG
sector, which helped Bangladesh
attain both international
competence and domestic
success, did not come by chance.
It has been possible mainly due to
modernization and technological
upgradation of factories over
the past 40 years as well as
developments in workplace safety,
environmental sustainability and
compliance issues.
We are living in such a
complex world where the risks,
challenges, and prosperities are
interconnected. The principles
and visions of global businesses
are periodically revised with
highlighting on sustainability.
Now, Bangladesh is one of the
safest and environment friendly
RMG manufacturing countries in the
world which is acclaimed globally.
We have the highest number of
green factories certified by USGBC.
We are also a front-runner in terms
of transparency, which adds unique
ethical values to our products.
Since the Bangladesh RMG sector
aspires to become a leader in
sustainable manufacturing, the
industry is preparing itself for the
next growth phase.
Therefore, being the apex
association of RMG industry
of Bangladesh, the BGMEA
has realigned its vision with
environment, sustainability, and
governance (ESG) priorities.
Our beloved association, BGMEA,
which has been serving as a
beacon for the industry for
decades, needs to adopt changes
in its philosophy, vision, missions,
and in its corporate identity for
even greater success.
While we were redesigning our new
logo and revisiting our vision, our
first and foremost priority was to
preserve the heritage of BGMEA.
This organization has provided
the much-needed direction to the
highest export earning sector of
Bangladesh through prudent and
successive leaderships in our legacy.
In the past decade, the industry
has made remarkable progress in
social and economic fronts and
has been successfully transformed
as a responsible undertaking.
We are living in such a
complex world where
the risks, challenges,
and prosperities
are interconnected.
The principles and
visions of global
businesses are
periodically revised
with highlighting on
sustainability.
Successive leaders have directed
this organization through thick
and thin in that process. That is
what we wanted to keep intact
and unchanged. Therefore,
the fundamental color pallet
of the new logo has been kept
unchanged.
The difference is that now we have
a story behind the colour and
symbols of the logo. Thus, BGMEA
is emerging with the new logo,
which is coded as “nine-dots.”
The dots will connect the positive
forces and stakeholders toward
the common global goals to
realign our business strategy with
the changing landscape of the
Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
Experts Views
global economy.
What they represent
We have designed the nine dots in
a way that when decoded the first
dot means, people come first.
Our motto is to forever work for
the wellbeing of the people of
Bangladesh and humankind at large,
inside and outside the industry.
Here the underlying principle is
to improve conditions for the
country’s approximately 4 million
garment workers, contribute to the
national economy and improve the
fate of the common people.
The second dot centers on
inclusivity, which is already one
of the hallmarks of Bangladesh’s
RMG industry.
Being the country’s largest formal
sector employer, with around 60%
of our employees being women,
we want to listen and to be amenable.
We are open to involving people
from across socio-economic
spectrum, without any form of
discrimination.
The third dot is about
transparency. Now Bangladesh
is a frontrunner in transparency
regarding factory safety and value-
chain responsibility.
Accountability and access to
information are central to building
a trustworthy, flexible and resilient
organization.
The fourth dot is about
infrastructure. In the last decade
we have made tremendous
progress in making our factories
safe, environment-friendly and
employee-friendly.
As a result, workplace mishaps
have become a thing of the past in
the RMG sector. But we cannot let
our guard down.
63
 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 15, Issue 09 l Pages 61 to 78
Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

September 2022

September 2022
On the Cover
An initiative of Textile Today
Kingdom Holdings Limited is one of the world’s
Apparel value-addition
depreciated due to high
RMG sector growing
big keeping
Sustainable
garments are the
largest manufacture of Linen yarn and Hemp yarn, key
backbone enterprise in China’s flax industry. Kingdom
raw material price, sustainability at the only way forward
energy crisis forefront for our planet

HEMP
The Team
REEL®
NATURAL CULTIVATION
ANTI BACTERIAL
UV PROTECTION
LINEN
RESPONSIBLE ENVIRONMENT
has been committed to becoming an exemplar
ABSORBENT FIBRES ENHANCED LIVELIHOOD

www.kingdom-hemp.com www.kingdom-china.com

worldwide related to sustainable development.

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO 63-65 Experts Views 73-75 Buyers' Views
RMG sector growing big
keeping sustainability at
Amzad Hossain Monir the forefront
Head of Business Development

65 Exports
Updates

Arif Saleh Tasin 350 320

Rahbar Hossain
300
250
200
246
210

153.3
Sustainable garments are the
150

Shohel Ahmed 100

50
0
China India Vietnam Bangladesh
only way forward for our planet
Business Development
Bangladesh’s kidswear
export to USA witnesses 76 Trade & Biz
20% jump in H1 ’22
SN Abdullah
Nurunnahar Tania
Research & Development 66 News &
Analysis

Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Engagement & Communication 54.50% $42.61 bn UK to continue duty-free
Bangladesh RMG RMG exports earning
value addition in
FY2021-22
while $19.43 bn raw
material imported
market access to Bangladesh
after LDC graduation
Apparel value-retention
Yeasin Mia depreciated due to high raw
Graphic Design material price, energy crisis

68 Exports
Updates
Zakir Hossain
Knitwear & woven export earnings in
Jr. Executive, Web & IT July-Aug FY2022-23 ($ bn)
Jul-Aug, 22

4.0
3.91 Global apparel market share
3.5 3.19
3.0
2.5 of Bangladesh to reach 10%
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
in 2025
Ashraful Alam
0.0
Knit Woven

Umeduzzaman Khan Ucchas

RMG export earnings jump 77 Trade & Biz
Cinematographer
26% in July-August FY2022

Md. Ariful Islam 70-72 Product

Md. Masudur Rahman Diversification
Abir Basak
Intimate wear export
Editorial Contributions
scopes for Bangladesh
Container handling
charge jumps to 25%
Inquiry:
M. +88 01775 99748
E. monir@textiletoday.com.bd
W. www.textiletoday.com.bd
Exports Updates
This nine dots
logo is the matrix
of BGMEA’s scope
of work and
influence.
This underlying theme of the
logo will continue to inspire us to
build safe, sustainable and green
factories having modern safety
and security apparatus.
The fifth dot indicates innovation,
to encourage us to innovate, which
is crucial to our survival.
The fourth industrial revolution
(4IR) has accelerated the process
of automation and virtual prototyping.
In order to keep up with the global
trend, significant investment in skill
development and R&D is already
taking place in factories.
While individual factories are
working on their own to innovate
and design high-end products
for exports, BGMEA has set-up a
“Centre for Innovation, Efficiency
and OSH” which will cater to the
industry’s quest for innovation and
perfection.
The sixth dot is about circularity,
which is very important for the
conservation of our natural
ecosystem.
As an eco-conscious industry
we are increasingly focusing on
Bangladesh’s kidswear export to USA witnesses 20% jump in H1 ’22
Textile Today Report
Bangladesh’s kidswear export to USA has reached
$153.30 million in the first half (H1) of 2022. Notching
a 20% jump in H1 2022.
Top 4 kidswear exporting countries to USA in H1 ’22
(In $mn)
350 320
300
246
250 210
200
150
100
50
0 the USA. While Vietnam’s kidswear export reached
China India Vietnam
Experts Views
shifting from a linear system to a The connection continues when
circular system. we look at the nine dots in rows.
Manufacturers, buyers and The first three dots emphasize
recyclers are making concerted reach, second three dots
efforts to collect and reuse textile emphasize transformation,
waste in Bangladesh. and the third three emphasize
sustainability.
The seventh dot is about
strengthening our global network. These are nine dots and together
they represent BGMEA’s new identity.
It will motivate us to strive to
be ahead in the world through In the last 40 years, we have come
innovation, pivots and flexible a long distance and still some distance
adaptations. to go, but the rewards are great.
Branding Bangladesh is the focus So far the progress we have made
of the eighth dot of BGMEA’s new puts us in a favorable position in
logo. the global market.
Its aim is to convey what BGMEA In the coming days, we need
represents and the vital role it to keep this momentum and
plays in representing and branding ongoing efforts in the area of
Bangladesh to the world. diversification, innovation, value
addition and 4IR.
And the ninth and final dot
represents protecting the The day is not far away when we will
environment. be able to set an annual export target
of $100 billion from this vital sector.
It is a symbol of the respect
BGMEA has for nature and its
dedication to preserving the Author
natural ecosystem.
This nine dots logo is the matrix
of BGMEA’s scope of work and
influence.
Symbolic
We have arranged the dots in
columns sequentially to portray
our journey from micro to macro,
Faruque Hassan
from action to impact, and from
local to global. Managing Director at Giant Group
and also President BGMEA.
It is an organic transformation.
The kidswear exports from Bangladesh have been
on growth course of late and USA being one of the
largest export destination has given drive to this growth.
As per the latest data released by OTEXA, USA
imported $1.40 billion worth in the period. US has
witnessed 26.54% Y-o-Y growth in its kidswear
sourcing.
Among other top kidswear sourcing countries China,
153.3 India, and Vietnam has increased greatly. China
exported $320 million worth of kidswear to the USA.
India exported $246 million worth of kids clothing to
Bangladesh
$210 million in H1 ’22, growing by around 27.30%.
Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022 65
News & Analysis
Apparel value-retention depreciated due
to high raw material price, energy crisis
Sayed Abdullah
The just ended fiscal year
(FY) 2021-22 has witnessed a
depreciation in Bangladesh’s
readymade garment (RMG) –
the backbone of the country’s
economy as it contributes around
84% of total export earning –
export value addition.
In FY 2021-22, Bangladesh’s RMG
exports earned $42.61 billion.
While according to Bangladesh
Bank data, the textile and apparel
industry imported $19.43 billion
worth raw materials in the period.
Thus, Bangladesh’s net RMG
export stood at $23.22 billion in
FY 2021-22, presenting a 54.50%
value addition.
Faruque Hassan, President,
BGMEA said, “Last year after
coming out of COVID – global
freight charges has gone up
abnormally. Coupled with higher
prices of other raw materials.
Which led to a decrease in our
apparel value addition.”
Shovon Islam, Chairman, Press and
Publicity, BGMEA and Managing
Director, Sparrow Group said to
Textile Today, “First of all, there is
no doubt that our apparel export
volume has increased. Also, our
export FoB value per garment has
improved.”
“On the contrary, the export per
garments FoB value increase has
not improved in the actual increase
of apparel value-addition – be it in
costing, CM, or in the wash.”
“The cost increase happened
globally due to higher raw
material price like textile dyes
and chemicals, yarn-fabric,
petrochemicals and freight cost
jumped significantly. At the
same time, cotton prices soared
ominously. Especially, from
January to June the raw material
costs have gone up significantly
66 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
54.50%
Bangladesh RMG
value addition in
FY2021-22
(minimum 10% to 15% increase)
due to China’s zero COVID policy
– as most of our raw materials are
imported from China –prices were
high,” said Shovon Islam.
“We manufacturers have to bear
the higher transportation charge
of raw materials. While the buyers
paid the increased cost per
garment's FoB value. Bangladeshi
RMG makers got the increased
cost from buyers and we did not
have to pay it.”
“So, if we deduct the 10% to 15%
cost increase from our $42.61
billion RMG exports earning, $4 to
$6 billion will be eaten up. Our net
RMG (in per unit garment) export
earning is around $38 billion.
Which we have been highlighting
from the beginning.”
“If we see the last 5-6 years
apparel export trend, we will see
that every year Bangladesh’s
annual apparel export
continuously grew by 10% to
15% even after adjusting the raw
material import cost. Overall,
our RMG shipment growth has
not grown steeply. Rather it
maintained the pre-COVID growth
RMG value addition (%) trend
80
70 61.78 60.94 64.32
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
FY 2017 FY 2018 FY 2019
$42.61 bn
RMG exports earning
while $19.43 bn raw
material imported
trend. As the global fashion market
saw a hike in demand coming
out of the pandemic – our RMG
shipment grew in parallel.”
“Thanks to the apparel
entrepreneurs' resilience. We
bounced back from the pandemic
woes and surpassed the pre-
COVID level growth trend.”
“Yes, our apparel value-addition
percentage decreased. Normally
our raw material import cost is
around 60% and we add 35% to
40% value. This time around, it is
bit more due to overall import cost
increase has surpassed the RMG
value-addition.”
“Another critical aspect is the
overall transformation of fashion
taste of among the global
consumers. As fashion consumers
are not anymore into plain cotton-
made garments. Rather, they are
preferring a more cotton blend
– like lycra/poly-based knit fabric.
While bottoms are completely into
blend. And Bangladesh's backward
linkage industry does not produce
and manufacturers needed to import
at higher prices. This is another
reason for decreased value-addition.”
56.49 59.13
54.5
FY 2020 FY 2021 FY 2022
Exports Updates
RMG export earnings jump
26% in July-August FY2022
Sayed Abdullah
Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) export
earnings have once again shown tremendous
resilience growth in July-August of the current
financial year (FY) FY2022-23. According to Export
Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in July-August of the
current FY FY2022-23, Bangladesh’s RMG export
earnings reached $7.11 billion – increasing by 26.1%
compared to the same period of the previous year
which was $5.64 billion in FY 2021-22.
Among the RMG exports, two main products i.e.
Knitwear and woven sector earnings reached $3.91
billion and $3.19 billion respectively. In the July-
August period, Knitwear product export registered
a 20.15% growth. While the woven garments export
achieved an astonishing 34.23% growth.
However, Apparel sector entrepreneurs opined
reservations regarding apparel growth. As of August
of FY 2021-22, exports were relatively low due to
COVID restrictions. As a result, the y-o-y export
growth rate is seen higher. But if m-o-m (month-on-
month) calculations are made, then RMG exports
have declined compared to July last year.
After the COVID crisis, demand increased in
Bangladesh's main export destination countries, so
people started placing large orders. But the US and
EU are facing record high inflation as the Ukraine-
Russia war rages. Consumers cut back on purchases
again. As a result, orders are falling and its reflection
will be seen in the next two to three months, an
industry leader opined.
However, a section of RMG entrepreneurs and
economists think that since Bangladesh produces
more basic items of clothing and some buyers from
China are coming to Bangladesh for various reasons,
there may not be any major negative impact on orders
in the coming months. According to the industry
people, it is mainly due to the increased price of raw
materials, increases in the cost of freight transportation
and some orders from China shifted to Bangladesh.
Knitwear & woven export earnings in
July-Aug FY2022-23 ($ bn)
Jul-Aug, 22
3.91
4.0
3.5 3.19
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
Knit Woven
68 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
They also think that the current order decline is a short-
term problem, and the recession will not last long.
Entrepreneurs are not yet seeing any negative
impact on orders in this sector. Rather, they have
plenty of orders in hand. Several orders are coming
to Bangladesh, especially from Pakistan. They are
expecting more orders because of the flood, an
industry leader said.
Textile and apparel sub-sector export earning scenario
Home textile also has a significant contribution to
Bangladesh's export after RMG. According to EPB,
home textile exports were worth $268.5 million in
two months, which is 53.39 percent higher than the
same period of the previous financial year.
Among the sub-products of Home textile, bed and
kitchen toilet lines exported $96.97 million in July-
August of FY2022-23. While terry towel earned $7.42
million. Observed a 17.97% growth.
Specialized textiles export earned $39.31 million in
July-August of FY2022-23. Observing a mammoth
73.17% growth. Among the sub-products of
specialized textiles export – Special woven fabric
earnings reached $5.08 million with a 29.92% growth
rate. Knitted fabrics earnings reached $21.82 million
with a staggering 98.72% growth rate in the first two
months of FY2022-23.
Cotton and cotton products (yarn, waste, fabrics,
etc.) products earned $48 million in July-August of
FY2022-23. Witnessing a 71.74% growth.
Jute and jute goods
Jute and jute goods export earned $156.61 million
in the first two months of FY2022-23. Witnessing a
22.67% growth.
Leather and leather products
Leather and leather products export earnings
reached $223.23 million in the July-August period.
Observing a 27.77% growth.
Home textile & specialized textiles product export
earnings in July-Aug FY2022-23 (in $mn)
300 268.5 July-Aug 22-23
250
200
150
100
48
50 39.31 21.82
5.08
0
Home Specialized Special Knitted Cotton and
textile textiles woven fabric fabrics cotton product
(yarn, waste,
fabrics, etc.)
DUSTER LTD to inaugurate the
industrial digital printing solution
with AEOON TECHNOLOGIES
Over the past 11 years, aeoon Technologies has made a name for itself as the manufacturer of the
fastest and most efficient industrial digital printers in the world. Based in Austria, aeoon has been
putting its main focus into building machines that are practical, cost-efficient, robust and have a
long work-life. CEO and founder Angelo Schiestl, an engineer and former screen-printing expert,
puts high value on the accuracy and durability of the machines. With an excellent service and
support system, low ink cost and the possibility to integrate every machine into an automated
workflow, aeoon printers are the perfect addition for every forward-thinking print company.
With aeoon DTG systems, customers are able to achieve a Print-On-Demand (POD) process. This
significantly reduces the consumption of natural resources, energy, transport and logistics, as well
as textile waste. Additionally, to that, aeoon supplies customers not only with printers but also with
all the other machines needed to build a workflow that’s best-suited for each customer’s business.
DUSTER LIMITED is the leading distributor of world-renowned brands like “Tennant”, “Klenco”,
“i-Team” and “Hoover” – DUSTER first introduced their high-quality products, such as Industrial
Scrubber Drier, Industrial Sweeper, City Sweeper, Outdoor Sweeper, High Pressure Washer, Industrial
Vacuum Cleaner and Household Cleaning Equipment in Bangladesh, eight years ago. DUSTER has
a strong presence in most of the major industries, such as electronics, food, chemical, apparel,
agriculture, ceramics, pharmaceuticals, hospitality and healthcare. Since 2014, DUSTER has gone
through a remarkable growth story, fuelled by our unrelenting pursuit of success, a pioneering
vision and an unyielding promise of service excellence. These qualities are what make us DUSTER –
a brand name to be reckoned by providing exceptional excellent customer service.
Now, DUSTER LIMITED has decided to inaugurate the Digital Printing business with aeoon
Technologies GmbH to make the RMG sector more professional and cost efficient than ever before.
We are looking forward to the growth of the DTG sector in Bangladesh.

Angelo Schiestl Md. Saidul Islam

CEO Managing Director
aeoon Technologies GmbH, Austria Duster Limited, Bangladesh
www.aeoon.com www.dusterbd.com
Product Diversification
Intimate wear export
scopes for Bangladesh
Textile Today Analysis
Intimate sector is one of the most
lucrative segments of fashion.
Over the time its fashion appeal is
growing more and more. In 2021,
global lingerie market size was $72
billion, which is expected to reach
approximately $113 billion within
2022-to-2027-year period.
According to the USA-based
research institute Zion Market
Research, last year the global
underwear market was worth
about $38 billion. It will reach $59
billion in 2024.
Industry experts believe that
lingerie manufacturing holds
tremendous opportunity for the
country to diversify and increasing
the export amount. As lingerie
margins on average is 20% to 25%,
compared to 10% for T-shirts.
It is not surprising thing is to
see that the foreign companies
one after another are investing
in underwear or bra, panty,
brief, camisole factories. But the
country’s domestic renowned or
new entrepreneurs are not getting
into it yet.
Apparel sector entrepreneurs
agree that there is a big scope
for Bangladesh to capture the
intimate wear market. As the
country is already a hub for
the world's biggest brands and
retailers’ to produce different
types of clothes.
As a result, if Bangladesh invests in
this sector, it is not difficult to find
buyers. But for this, entrepreneurs
have to come forward and develop
skilled manpower and other
necessary logistics. Lingerie usually
refers to women's undergarments
(bras, panties, and nightgowns).
Manufacturing lingerie requires some
special type of sewing machines and
70 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
$518 mn
in 2021
Bangladesh's lingerie
export amount in On average
2021 (1.2% in global lingerie margin
market share) is 20% to 25%
Leading lingerie making countries
China, Vietnam and Sri Lanka
machinery in factories.
It is also possible to produce men’s
underwear (underwear and vest)
with this type of machinery. As a
result, lingerie products include
women's and men’s bra, panty,
brief, camisole, etc. At present,
swimwear and rompers are
included in lingerie products.
Currently precise figures of lingerie
exports from Bangladesh are not
known as many types of products
are included in the segment.
However, as per the BGMEA data in
the fiscal year 2017-18, Bangladesh
exported women's lingerie worth
$115 million, which was 7.84 percent
higher than the 2016-17 FY.
For this, entrepreneurs need
to look at underwear. As the
underwear factories increase in the
country, the confidence of foreign
buyers will also increase. Then the
purchase order will also increase.
Present intimate wear production
scenario
At present, around 50 factories
are currently in production, most
of which have been around for
four to five years. Leading lingerie
makers in Bangladesh are Apex
Lingerie, Charka Textile Ltd.,
Ananta Apparels, SQ Birichina
Ltd., Four H Group, Partex Group,
Mondol Group Hop Lun BD, Blue
$113bn
within 2027
global lingerie
market size (98.8%)
$42 bn
women's lingerie
market size in 2021
Planet Knitwears, Zaber & Zubair,
Mahdeen Group, etc., are some
amongst those.
In the early 1990s, the Swedish
company HopLun Apparel Bd Ltd
set up an undergarment factory in
the Dhaka Export Processing Zone
(EPZ). Later in 1999, Apex Lingerie
came into this business. And they
are one of the leading lingerie
manufacturers in the country. Their
factories produce 1.8 to 2 million
pieces of bras, panties, rompers and
swimwear for girls every month.
While Pran-RFL Group has set up
an intimate wear manufacturing
factory called Charka Textile Ltd. –
where it targets to export intimate
wear worth $70 million in the
current financial year.
Ananta Apparels invested Tk
2.5 billion in a state-of-the-
art intimate wear factory in
Chittagong. Through this, it
created 4500 employment there.
Ananta Apparels is planning to
set up a synthetic fabric plant
in Mirsrai Economic Zone with
an investment of Tk 4 billion to
manufacture fabrics and laces
for its intimate wear unit. Ananta
Apparels currently manufactures
24 million bras and 12 million
panties annually.
In 2008, the country's SQ
Product Diversification
Around 50 apparel factories
are making lingerie
Leading lingerie makers in BD
Apex Lingerie Partex Group
Charka Textile Ltd. Mondol Group
Ananta Apparels
SQ Birichina Ltd.
Four H Group
Group’s SQ Birichina Ltd. started
manufacturing intimate wear in
a joint venture with Quantum
Clothing Group, a leading UK
lingerie company, to export
lingerie from Bangladesh. Earlier
the company used to export
sweaters. In 2010, the group
bought shares in Quantum
Clothing. Currently they have 5
production units.
Bangladesh has a bright future
after China in this sector. A strong
design and development team is
needed to produce such apparel
and high-end products. Also
workers need to be more efficient.
Sourcing of raw materials is a
major challenge for this sector.
Foreign investment in BD lingerie
sector
China's M/s Kiaxi Fashion
Bangladesh Limited is going to
set up a garment factory in Dhaka
Export Processing Zone (EPZ)
by investing around $6 million.
As a result of this investment, the
women's lingerie manufacturing
factory will provide employment
to about 2031 Bangladeshi citizens
and produce 24 million pieces of
lingerie annually.
Recently, Chinese firm Vanessa
Enterprise Ltd. has signed an
agreement with Bangladesh
Export Processing Zone Authority
(BEPZA) to set up a women's
lingerie accessories manufacturing
industry at Ishwardi EPZ with
an investment of $41.77 million.
Where it will make 299.52 million
bra cups and PU foam annually.
The factory will employ 4028
72 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
Foreign investment in BD lingerie
Vanessa Enterprise Ltd.
invested $41.77mn to
produce 299.52mn bra cups
& PU foam
Kiaxi Fashion Bangladesh
Ltd invested $6 mn to
produce 24mn pieces
Bangladeshi nationals.
Singapore-Sri Lanka owned
company MAS Sumantra will set
up an intimate wear factory with
an investment of $7.18 million in
Chittagong EPZ. The company will
manufacture 2.85 million pieces of
intimate wear, especially briefs and
bras annually.
Investment challenges
However, setting up a lingerie
manufacturing factory requires
5 times more investment than a
normal apparel factory. At the
same time workforce need to be
trained up for making this high
value-added item.
RMG entrepreneurs say the
manufacturing process of lingerie
items, especially bras, is very
complex. It requires 25 types of
accessories and sophisticated
knowledge to make it. As a
result, they have invested in
training workers to produce these
products.
Industry experts say that to
make this sector profitable, the
efficiency of workers should be
brought to at least 60 percent.
New manufacturers are counting
losses as they spend a lot of
money on training workers. Sector
leaders feels that the government
should encourage this promising
sector.
Why Bangladesh’s lingerie’s
making has a big scope
China is by far the major producer
of lingerie and intimates. While
Vietnam and Sri Lanka are also
way ahead of Bangladesh in
MAS Sumantra invested
$7.18mn to produce
2.85mn
supplying lingerie to the global
market. However, Bangladesh is
gradually moving away from the
production of these products. The
lingerie business is moving away
from China for various reasons.
On the other hand, intimate wear
consumption has been increasing
globally. As the impact of the
pandemic is decreasing, the
demand of consumers to buy
lingerie and intimates have also
increased around the world.
As a result, local apparel
manufacturers are also increasing
their investment in lingerie and
intimates sector in recent years
– as part of their plans to expand
up-market globally. Amid growing
global demand, at least 50 apparel
entrepreneurs have either set up
new underwear units or ventured
into the underwear business. They
are also moving forward to set
up a link in synthetic fabrics to
meet domestic demand for raw
materials to break away from
import dependence.
The country's exporters are hoping
to create a strong position in the
global lingerie market like China,
Vietnam and Sri Lanka.
Bangladesh Textile Mills
Association President Mohammad
Ali Khokon is planning to set up
a factory to manufacture lace.
Lace is an essential accessory for
making underwear.
Mohammad Ali Khokon said, “If we
can capture a share of the global
underwear market, our exports will
increase by at least several billion
US dollars."
 Buyers' Views

End consumers will be pushing

brands and retailers to become
more sustainable. No doubt that
this pressure will keep growing
with new generations being so
much more aware of our global
environment. At present, 60% of
cotton-made apparel of Centro’s
are sustainably sourced and 35%
of polyester garments are made
from recycled polyester.
Centro Tex Limited started its
journey in 2006 with only 13
employees. Within a decade, it
is now a top apparel sourcing
and manufacturing company
in Bangladesh. Centro has
a broad customer portfolio
from Australia, New Zealand
to Europe, the UK and South
America.
Henrik Bruun, COO, Centro has
a vast role in a lot of what goes

Sustainable
on in Centro, be it customer
meetings, HR, logistics, admin,
merchandisers, design as well

garments are the

as QC/QA and test lab. From
the beginning of Centro’s
journey –Tahsin Uddin Khan,

only way forward

Chairman of the company has
been phenomenal in making the
company a successful sourcing

for our planet

and manufacturing company.
Recently team Textile Today
met with Henrik Bruun to
hear from him. Here is the
highlighting part for the - Henrik Bruun, COO, Centro Tex Limited
readers.

BTT Interview

Textile Today: Centro is now one of the leading
sourcing companies in Bangladesh. Please share the
success story and recent updates of Centro Tex.
Henrik Bruun: Centro Tex started its journey in
2006. How Centro Tex come to its current position
as a leading apparel sourcing and manufacturing
company is due to the company’s Chairman Tahsin
Uddin Khan’s determination, desire and passionate
leadership, getting the best performance from our
employees
In Centro’s journey, we have witnessed rapid but
importantly, sustainable growth in terms of business.
From the kickstart of our journey – Centro has
onboarded leading global brands & retailers which
has acted as a critical ingredient in our success. We
have emerged as a holistic service provider rather
than acting only as a buying house.
Textile Today: Product development and R&D are
always important for growth. Please share Centro’s
strengths in these areas.

Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022 73

Buyers' Views
Henrik Bruun: Tahsin Khan saw quickly that design,
product development and R&D would play a paramount
role – that is why in 2015– when he moved to the UK,
he opened Centro’s office there, which is a design and
marketing office supporting the UK and European
customers. Also, we have a full in-house design, product
development and R&D team in Bangladesh.
This gives us the strength to give all types of support
to any global fashion brands, retailers and factory
partners in Bangladesh. It is a huge part of Centro’s
business to provide this service, otherwise, we will
not be able to sustain it.
Speaking of product design & development and R&D
– the Bangladesh apparel industry has come far in
terms of creating this extra mileage and at present
any international brands or retailers can come and
choose or create their products which are locally
designed and developed.
Textile Today: How do you maintain buyers’
requirements regarding sustainability and
compliance?
Henrik Bruun: Sustainability and compliance are
very important in today’s RMG sector and will be
even more going forward, being it from customers
or our own Centro point of view. We have a very
experienced Compliance Team and a Sustainability
Manager that are handling these things. The
Compliance Team has developed and maintains
our Centro level of compliance. This means our
merchandisers can not place any order in any
apparel factory if they are not up to the Centro
level of compliance furthermore we strictly follow
any customer compliance level, where third-party
audits are conducted after Centro Compliance
has helped the factory to comply with these. Our
compliance team goes every day to factories and
74 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
point out their findings for the factories in terms of
sustainability, working condition, minimum wage, etc.
So everybody has the chance to be on top of it, to
secure the audits pass.
Our Sustainability Manager updates us all the time,
on what’s new and needed in this sector, so we are
prepared and can offer our customers updated
information on fabrics, etc.
Textile Today: What are the main challenges right
now in RMG sourcing business?
Henrik Bruun: Well I think we can say that we all
have had our share of challenges in the last 2 years
or more, being it Covid, Climate changes, the Russia-
Ukraine war, energy crises and high prices on gas,
electricity, food etc etc… This situation will not end
any day soon, unfortunately, BUT it also require us
all in RMG sector to find alternative ways to work,
be more efficient, organized and develop our selves.
End of the day, the consumers are not prepared to,
or can not pay more due to the global inflation, so
brand’s/retailers & our whole RMG sector must think
in different ways.
Certainly, these challenges are not impossible to
overcome –The key is to find ways to overcome them
and keep pushing to do better.
Textile Today: We all know that Centro has a good
working environment. How does it facilitate its
employees?
Henrik Bruun: It is no secret that Centro’s employees
are the key to our success. Without dedicated
and good employees, there is little to do for an
organization. That’s why Centro believe that our
people are so important to our business growth.
We take utmost care to ensure that we go beyond
the requirements of the law to provide a safe,

healthy and enjoyable working environment for our
employees. We try to ensure a lot of out-of-the-box
events, get together’s, fruit festivals, sports activity
programs, company/ family dayout and many more
activities for Centro’s employees to keep them motivated.
We arrange training programs and knowledge-
sharing programs as a part of our internal
development initiatives for employees.
A very satisfying culture is that anyone can come
anytime to management and can share his/her mind.
This is how we give maximum priority to our employees.
Textile Today: Please share the future business
growth plan of Centro Tex.
Henrik Bruun: We have a very strong foundation,
so Centro can and will now exuberantly grow and
sustain in a wide array of challenges. Now a day,
business and environmental sustainability is the
crucial ingredient for success. Anybody can witness
rapid growth for a period of time but eventually,
it will not last long if the foundation is not built
strongly which is Centro’s top priority.
Textile Today: Please share the future trend of
sustainable cotton and man-made fiber apparel.
BGMEA & BKMEA
attended a meeting
of STAR Network in
Cambodia
Desk Report
A delegation of BGMEA led by Vice President
Miran Ali attended a meeting of the STAR Network
(Sustainable Textile of the Asian Region) organized
by the German development agency GIZ in Siem
Reap, Cambodia recently.
The delegation included BGMEA Director Barrister
Vidiya Amrit Khan, Chair of BGMEA Standing
Committee on Foreign Mission Cell Shams Mahmud
and Director of TRZ Group Zarin Rashid.
Vice President Miran Ali apprised the STAR
Network of how the RMG industry of Bangladesh
responded to the unprecedented impacts of
Covid-19 and turned around by overcoming the
challenges. He also gave an overview of the RMG
industry’s renewed vision that aims to pursue
growth in a manner that is sustainable and
positively impacts the economy, the environment
and the lives of people.
BKMEA Vice President Fazlee Shamim Ehsan and
Director Mohammed Shamsul Azam represented
BKMEA in the meeting.
Buyers' Views
Henrik Bruun: End consumers will be pushing brands
& retailers to become more sustainable. No doubt that
this pressure will keep growing with new generations
being so much more aware of our global environment.
At present, 60% of Centro’s cotton-made apparel is
sustainably sourced. And 35% of polyester garments
are made from recycled polyester.
By 2025, we have a target of achieving 100%
sustainable cotton-made apparel and all man-made
fiber products will be recycled.
Mind you, the end consumers will be very critical in
terms of transparency to the products being labelled
“Sustainable” as there have been some “Green-
washing” issues in the past and this will not be
tolerated in any way and rightfully so.
One could argue whether sustainability should
cost more.. but at the end of the day this is an end
consumer “decision” and RMG sector, hand in hand
with brands & retailers will be playing a very vital role
here and must be ready to face this challenge together.
Last but not the least, we ALL play a vital role in
everything we do, in every action we make whether
in the industry or in our homes… it’s all about
PEOPLE-PRODUCT-PLANET.
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Development, Manage Employee possibilities and evaluate customer needs
Benefits. • Actively seek out new sales opportunities
• Maintain Company Culture, Handle through cold calling, networking.
Disciplinary Actions. • Prepare and deliver appropriate
• Ensuring office supplies are maintained, presentations on products and services.
including checking inventory and
• Ensure the availability of stock for sales
working with vendors to ensure and demonstrations
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all times.
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Email: businessdevelopment@purechemicals.com.bd
Tra d e & B i z
UK to continue duty-free market access
to Bangladesh after LDC graduation
Textile Today Report
The UK will continue to provide
Bangladesh with duty-free access
to its market after the country’s
graduation from the LDC category.
British High Commissioner to
Bangladesh Robert Chatterton
Dickson said this while responding
to a query from Acting President of
BGMEA Md. Shahidullah Azim about
the duty-free market access for
Bangladesh after the LDC graduation.
The British government has
announced a new scheme
named “Developing Countries
Trading Scheme” in place of
the existing GSP. According to
the new scheme, 98 percent of
Bangladesh’s products will be
eligible for the duty benefit after
LDC graduation.
The British High Commissioner
spoke on different issues and
answered various questions
from stakeholders including
political leaders, business leaders,
economists, academia and
Global apparel market share of Bangladesh to reach 10% in 2025
Textile Today Report
Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA) at a press
conference declared that by 2025
apparel manufacturers want to
increase Bangladesh's apparel
export share in the international
apparel market to 10% from the
current 7%. And by the end of FY
2022 – the apex trade body for
garment want to raise it by 8%.
BGMEA President Faruque Hassan
highlighted on the fact that
Bangladesh’s RMG exports to
non-traditional markets like Japan,
India, South Korea and other Asian
markets have showing a good
prospect. And BGMEA will press
on these markets to achieve the
10% apparel export share in the
‘Made in Bangladesh Week’ related
76 Bangladesh Textile Today | September 2022
journalists at a program titled
“Meet the Ambassador” organized
by the Centre for Governance
Studies (CGS) in cooperation
with Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung
Bangladesh in Dhaka on August 22.
Md. Shahidullah Azim said the
UK is the 3rd largest export
destination for Bangladesh’s
RMG with exports of 4.49 billion
dollars in the last fiscal year
2021-2022, and the bilateral
economic relationship between
the two countries has been
growing significantly over the past
decades.
“As we are preparing for the next
growth phase of our industry, we
have set priorities to enhance our
business capabilities, particularly
in the areas of diversification of
products, investment in high-end
textile sectors through innovation,
value-addition, and upgrading
technologies,” he added.
He expressed thanks to the British
meet the press event.
In the event, The BGMEA President
revealed that Bangladesh is
expecting at least 15% year-on-
year growth in export receipts in
the current FY.
The BGMEA boss stressed that
despite intensified worldwide
insecurity amid the current Russia-
Ukraine war and runaway inflation
– Bangladesh’s readymade
garment (RMG) exporters are
strong as China rift is opening
an opportunity for Bangladesh.
Factories are witnessing an increase
in work orders due to that.
"We are anticipating a greater RMG
export growth in India and Japan
in the near future, and the Prime
Minister’s recent visit to India has
Figure: The British government has
announced a new scheme named
“Developing Countries Trading Scheme”
in place of the existing GSP
government for the new scheme,
saying that it would support
Bangladesh in enhancing trade
significantly.
He hoped that the friendly support
of the British government for the
development of Bangladesh would
continue in the coming years.
Dr. Manjur A Chowdhury, Chairman;
Zillur Rahman, Executive Director of
the Centre for Governance Studies
and Shadhan Kumar Das, Program
Co-coordinator of Friedrich-Ebert-
Stiftung Bangladesh, among others,
were present at the program.
Figure: The British government has
announced a new scheme named
“Developing Countries Trading Scheme”
in place of the existing GSP
opened a floodgate of opportunities
for Bangladesh," Hassan said.
BGMEA also stressed that to
catch 10% market share – garment
entrepreneurs are increasing their
capacity to man-made fibers
(MMF) along with cotton-blend
fiber to receive greater prices from
global brands and retailers.
 Tra d e & B i z

Container handling charge jumps to 25%

N. Tania

Recently, a total of 19 private inland container depots

(ICDs) raised container handling charge of imported
goods by 35%, handling of empty containers by 24%,
and export package charges and VGM charges by 25%.
ICDs site the recent fuel price hike as the main
reason behind this raise. As per Bangladesh Inland
Container Depot Association (BICDA), they increased
the prices after a meeting with their members, along
with representatives from the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)
and Bangladesh Freight Forwarders Association (Baffa).
Although BICDA hiked container handling fees for Figure: ICDs raise container handling charge by 25%.
imported products by 35% in its diesel-only service.
sub-sector leaders threw caution in the wind as the
In contrast, carrying and lift on/off charges for
recent global business trend is on the downside. A
diesel-powered facilities between bare container
BGMEA leader opined that already a lot of factories
handlers, were augmented by 24%.
are facing difficulty to pay their workers’ salaries
As most of the export products are from the textile without bank loans and some prominent companies
and garment industry, the recent meeting also were working factories at half of their capacity due
included leaders of the BGMEA, after which the to shorter gas pressure and electricity supply.
prices were fixed after an agreement.
At the same time, some major buyers are also
Although textile and apparel and the related canceling orders, he added.

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