Republic of the Philippines

Bato Institute of Science &Technology, Inc.

Dolho Bato, Leyte
Name: Maria Gracia P. Flanco Course: BSBA
Year& Section: 2A Instructor: Jenedino N. Perez
Week 7: Date:30-09-2022
Answer to questions:
1. What would you think the best wood that is good for making a craft?
 The following are the best wood that is good for making a craft;
 Pine
 Cedar
 Redwood
 Cherry
 Maple
2. How important your knowledge on tools in making the craft?
 The importance of your knowledge on tools in making the craft is that you'll
be able work faster, establish an amazing array of magnificent products, and
save some resources and time.

In a long bond paper, do the following:

a. Conduct a research on how a furniture is being created
b. Enumerates the tools that were used in creating craft and provide pictures on the
tools are being used during craft making.
c. State the steps/procedures from the start to finished in creating the craft

Sample:
Tools used:
GRINDER RADIAL SAW

TABLE SAW JOINTER GLUE & CLAMP

PLANER MITER SAW MORTISING CHISEL

ROUTER OR ROUTER
Procedures:
Step 1: The Plan
Draw what you want it to look like, you can do it by hand or use computer programs like
sketched or not errors they're improvised designs.
Step 2: Preparation
Prepare all the equipment necessary for the task.
Step 3: Tools
Get your tools ready and sharp before you start, most accidents happen with dull
blades. Check if there are tools, router bits or accessories you could buy to make your
work easier.
Step 4: Get Your Wood On!
Choose your lumber carefully, you want it to be as straight as possible, look for assures
at the ends, resin pockets, knots, bowing, cups and curves, you want to avoid that or at
least plan your cuts accordingly.
Draw your pieces on the lumber using chalk so you know where everything to.
Check the grain pattern and plan your cuts so you keep the ow throughout the work.
At this stage you want your cuts 1/2 inch wider and 1 inch longer than the nail
measurements so if difficulties should arise you have some meat left to work with.
Cut the lumber at the radial saw to more manageable length.

Step 5: Panels
If you have panels to make, go straight to the table saw and rip your boards to 2-2 1/2
inches. Plan your cuts so you keep most of the boards and try to center features or
grain pattern.
If the boards are cupped, make sure that the ''smiley face'' is up, so when you rip it, it
won’t squeeze the blade and throw it back at you.
Step 6: Jointer
Identify your pieces at the end of the planks so you can keep track of them.
At the jointer adjust the fence to the width you need and make sure it's 90 degrees with
the table. Adjust the table for 1/16 inch cut.
Wear safety goggles and use push sticks.
Go slow and use even pressure, you won't work hard woods the same way as soft
woods, the jointer and thickness planer can rip chunks of hard woods.
Pass 1 face and one edge on the jointer and identify them for use on the table saw and
thickness planer.
If you are making panels, do 1 face and 2 edges and go glue them up.
Step 7: Table Saw
If you have long pieces to pass on the table saw (say 72 inches), watch out for tension
in the wood causing it to curve/bow, plan for it so you'll maybe be able to go back to the
jointer and correct them. Put the mark you made on the edge of your pieces on the table
saw fence so you rip them true. Always pass your wood on the long side, if your piece is
wider than long use a cross-cut sled or a chop saw.
Set the blade height so 1 tooth is over the board.
Step 8: Fun with Glue
If you have long pieces to pass on the table saw (say 72 inches), watch out for tension
in the wood causing it to curve/bow, plan for it so you'll maybe be able to go back to the
jointer and correct them.
Put the mark you made on the edge of your pieces on the table saw fence so you rip
them true. Always pass your wood on the long side, if your piece is wider than long use
a cross-cut sled or a chop saw. I've seen what happens when the table saw bites on a
wide piece of wood and sends it tying, it isn’t pretty.
There's still holes in the wall that we keep as reminders. Set the blade height so 1 tooth
is over the board. Prepare your clamps for the panels, check for harmony of grain gruel
and decide which piece goes where. Trace the growth rings and make sure they don't
go in the same direction from one piece to the next to ensure the strongest panel
possible. By tracing the rings there's less chance of confusion with the saw marks. Put
glue on one side of every piece and put the clamps at distances to maximize contact
with the glue. Use as many clamps as you need.
Normally you should be able to trace a 45-degree line from one clamp to the next that
way you'll know you have even pressure everywhere If you are using soft wood, use a
martyr (a surficial piece of wood) between the clamps and the panel so the clamps don't
mark them
Step 9: Thickness Planner
Read the grain and feed the board according to the blade rotation of the planer. Put the
mark you made on the face of your piece while at the jointer face down on the table.
If you are using hard woods go in 1/16 inch increments or even 1/32 inch because when
it rips chunks out your wood and there's not enough passes left to correct them before
you get to the desired thickness!
When the blade touched all the surface, rip your piece over at every pass afterwards.
Step 10: Cut It to Length
Read the grain and feed the board according to the blade rotation of the planer. Put the
mark you made on the face of your piece while at the jointer face down on the table.
When the blade touched all the surface, rip your piece over at every pass afterwards.
Cut your pieces to length on the miter saw.
If you made panels, cut them on the panel saw or with a circular saw using a guide so
you're straight Make a zero cut first! That is cut one end so it is straight, rip it end to end
and then measure the desired length and cut it to length.
Step 11: Tracing
If you made panels, cut them on the panel saw or with a circular saw using a guide so
you're straight Make a zero cut first! That is cut one end so it is straight, rip it end to end
and then measure the desired length and cut it to length.
Step 12: Machining
Now is time to machine everything, if there's a lot of things to do on your piece, plan the
order of all the operations so it's logical and easy to measure.
If you have mortise and tenon joints, start with your mortises, check the depth! think you
got it? check again, you don't want to start over.
Next try it on a martyr (a piece of scrap wood that match the specs of the piece you
want to machine.)
Clean your mortises with a mortising chisel. Next machine your Tenons, put dadoes on
your table saw and be sure to bring the mortise they should fit into with you to test if
they fit perfectly. Use the crosscut sled since you will be cutting on the wide side. If it
doesn't come out the way you planned, can you fix it with more glue? No? Start over...
Step 13: Router
Next go to the router, be careful not to put your hand near the blade.
Put even pressure across the pieces so they come out perfect.
Make sure you adjust the fence with the bearing of the bit. Make successive passes so
it doesn't rip chunks out of it.
If you work with hard woods, it could be a good idea to round the edges a bit so the bit
is less aggressive. When working with end grain, put a martyr the end to minimize
blowouts. If it didn't go according to plan, remember it's not a mistake, it's improvised
design! Try and repeat it on the other side so it looks like you meant it that way. If you
make raised panels on the shaper or router, remember to put your good face on the
table. Make a lot of passes (1/16 inch increments) Make sure to test fit with the frame
while the machine is set up properly.
Step 14: Raised Panels
Step 15: Dry Fit
Before gluing anything, make a dry assembly to make sure everything is where it should
be and fits perfectly
Step 16: Stains and Dyes
If you're trying something new, design a test to see what it will look like. Use the same
wood as your project and sand it the same way and to the same grit so it reacts
accurately the finished look. Then use what looks the best on the project.
If you are working with a blotchy wood, you might want to seal the wood before applying
the stain or dye. Use a 1/2 lbs. cut of shellac (1/2oz -takes in 1 cup of Denatured alcohol
or Methyl Hydrate) Apply it everywhere, wait until it's dry and sand it again so only the
bottom of the fibers are sealed.
That way the color will absorb evenly.
Step 17: Final Sanding
Step 18: Branding

Step 19: Stains and Dyes (2)

It's time to Dye! If you are using a solvent based stain or dye wear adequate protection
for your eyes, face and hands.
Protect your surroundings from possible backsplash and drips.
Prepare some clean clothes to wipe the color afterwards.
Plan your staining sequence so you don't have to touch the work after the stain is
applied. Let it dry on pieces of scrap wood, the less surface area it touches, the better.
Step 20: Finishing
If the color came out perfect and even, you can now put varnish and the finishing
touches on the work. Before applying varnish, seal the wood either with oil (Tung or
linseed) or commercial sealer to limit the punctuations from the changes in
temperature/humidity.
Then use a good brush or a sponge to wipe the varnish evenly. A mix of 1/3 Boiled
Linseed Oil, 1/3 Polyurethane, 1/3 Mineral Spirits. Usually 3 coats. Wait until the varnish
is fully dry before applying the next coat. Sand with finer grit between coats, to 320, 400,
500 etc.