This little volume has been scanned and uploaded at the suggestion of the

late Iain Wotherspoon, of Martin's Book Shop in Campbeltown, whose

grand-mother wrote

SOUTHEND
THROUGH THE AGES
BY
K. JOHNSTON

CAMPBELTOWN : MARTIN, 14 Main Street

Printed by Civic Press, Ltd., 26 Civic Street, Glasgow, C.4.

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SOUTHEND THROUGH THE AGES
IN 81 A.D. Agricola himself explored the west during the fifth year of his
command and beheld the blue, distant shore of Ireland. He had with him an
exiled Irish Chief. Agricola subdued ' unknown tribes ' and fortified that part of
Britain which looks towards Ireland."
Some authors have supposed that the ' West' referred to was Kintyre, but others
are doubtful. Ptolemy, the Greek geographer, who wrote about the middle of the
second century, indicates vaguely that the Romans knew Kintyre, but of that
there is no definite proof.
Tacitus, the historian and son-in-law of Agricola, says that where Agricola
pushed his conquests, ""Porches, baths and an elegant conviviality with temples
and schools were introduced with marvellous expedition," but there is no
certainty that such elegance has been seen by our forefathers in Kintyre.
But let us suppose that Agricola did visit the 'Epidon akron' or Mull of Kintyre.
He would see the same hills, valleys and streams; Sanda and little 'Eilean-nan-
Coarach' (Sheep Island) stood there as now. He would hear the thunder of the
waves as they lashed themselves against the rocks of the Moil. It was the same in
many aspects, and yet in others, how different. Instead of cultivated fields and
peaceful homesteads, there were swamps and thickets. Forest of birch and alder
and hazel, pathless and scarcely penetrable, extended in all directions. Deer, wild
cats and wolves prowled around. Only a patch of ground, here and there, was
tilled.
And what were the natives like? Did they answer to the description given of the
Caledonians by one historian —" men with flaming hair and mighty limbs,
dwelling in wattled huts." Their boats were made of basket-work covered with
the skin of animals. Their arms were dirk, targe and a short spear which had at
the handle a rattle to scare off an enemy's horse.
Strong and hardy they must have been, for we read that a man could hide in a bog
for days with only his head above the ground. Hunger had no terrors for him. He
had a mysterious food, a tiny portion of which would keep him alive for a long
time.
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Some think this food grew on the sacred mistletoe plant, but whatever it was, it
certainly was a boon and a blessing to the men and women of these days. The
woman was free from the thraldom of pots and pans and dishes, and the eternal
question — ' What shall we have for dinner.' There was no need for the summons
" Come hame fast! The meat is wul," which was the call to the reapers more than
fifteen hundred years later in the strange lowland tongue.
We leave the darkness of that period with its few, faint stars and come into the
light of the second year of the sixth century, when we have reliable records of
information for our guidance.
There are four ancient Irish chronicles, the oldest of which that written by
Tighernac, Abbot of St. Ciaran's monastery at Clonmacnois in the eleventh
century, is the most important. These annals are written partly in Latin, partly in
the Erse language.
The first entry in Tighernac's annals regarding Scotland is that in 502 " Fergus
the Great, son of Ere, held a part of Britain with the Dalriadic nation and died
there." Dalriada or Dalariada was a part of country round about Antrim and
Down in Ireland. The Scots were a community in North Ireland, and then as now,
the cry was for colonies and more colonies. As Kintyre was less than twelve
miles away it was a convenient settlement for emigrants. An ancient Irish tract
states that "Three times fifty men were the emigrants that went forth with the
sons of Ere. Fergus had two brothers, Angus and Lorn, and after Ere died the new
territory was divided among the three brothers. Fergus had Kintyre. The farm '
TirFergus ' (the land of Fergus) is a link with him. The new settlement in Kintyre
had been named Dalriada with the same sentiment which has always induced
settlers to name their new townships with their hometown names. But the settlers
were not allowed to settle calmly in their newly-acquired possessions.
The original occupants were not to be dispossessed without protesting
vigorously, and we read in the annals an account of the flight of the settlers
before Bruid, son of Malcolm, King of the Cruithae.
Then comes a long drawn out period of fighting when Picts and Scots engaged in
furious battles, and at times there were rival claimants to " sovereignty of the
Scots."
In 622 a battle was fought somewhere in Kintyre (the battle of Ceann Delgor)
and, as if connected with it there is a record regarding the death of Conan or
Conaig, son of King Aedan of " the golden swords." The mournful wailing note
comes down to us in the song of Bemudine "the learned."
" (The resplendent billows of the sea, the sun that raised them is my grief,
The storms were against Conan and his army;
The woman of the fair locks was in the Curach with Conan;
And there was great lamentation this day at Bili Tortan."
In A.D. 719 the Kintyre men under the name of Gabran engaged in a sea fight
with the people of Lorn in Glenfine.
"The King of Kintyre, Duncan and Selbac of Lorn were the two commanders and
victory fell to the southern Dalriads.
And so the wearisome warfare was waged for years and yet more years. It was
pathetic in its childishness and tragic in its wastefulness, as war always is. The
same spirit dominated the warmongers then as dominates them in our own time.
At the close of the eighth century the scene changed considerably. The
"murdering Norsemen" appeared from over the sea in their sturdy galleys. These
marauders spared neither man nor woman, child nor beast. They sackecl
monasteries, murdered the monks, tore down the Christian symbols and set up the
worship of Thor and Odin. For over three centuries this slaughtering and
sacrilege was carried on.
In the early years of the invasion the native races united against the common foe,
and the last entry in the old annals relating to the Southern Dalriadic kings is that
Conal, son of (Tardg, was slaughtered in Cunntire (Kintyre). After him the
records mention Kenneth McAlpin first king of all Scotland who died in 858.
Many years elapsed, however, before the Scottish kings were safe initheir
sovereignty. The Scandinavians continued their visits of destruction, keeping
kings and people in a state of apprehension, as no one could tell what the future
held.
Our interest in the Norse invasion is made greater by the fact that these shores
were landing places for the Vikings, and on the sands where our children play so
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peacefully the sea-rovers' "spears thundered and shafts were stained in blood."
The island of Sanda is mentioned in the Hacon Saga. After his disastrous attack
on the Scots in the Firth of Clyde, King Hakon sailed from Arran "thence to
Sandey, and so past the Mull of Kintyre to Gigha." Later Biorn " Krepp-hendi "
(the crook handed) exults King Hakon thus.
"Wide o'er the low isle of Sandey
The sovereign renowed bears his targes
Smoke from, the hamlets of Isla ascends;
And raised by the hosts of all potent king Fire upon fire enlarges.
Beneath the sword edge in Satiris Southland
Low bowed the warriors sons to the ground,
And next when the far famed victory giver
Swooped on the Manx men, their place was not found."
The Hebrides were claimed by Norway in the eleventh century. An agreement
was made between the Scottish king Malcolm Ceannmore (big head) and King
Magnus of Norway, mat the latter was to nave the islands of Scotland which
meant all the land round which a helm carrying ship could pass, in the year 1098
Magnus Barefoot set out on an expedition to Scotland, rie cast envious eyes on
green Kintyre, and was determined to have it by hook or by crook. The Norse
writers tell us that "King Magnus brought his ships to the south of Satiri
(Kintyre). Then he had a small ship drawn across the ridges of Satiri"—between
the East and West Loch Tarbert. "The king sat in the poop and took hold of the
helm ball; and thus he gained possession of all the country on the larboard side."
By the stratagem Magnus "extorted; the peninsula."
A Norse bard Snorro describes the triumphal procession "King Magnus wore on
his head a helmet, and carried on his arm a red shield emblazoned with a golden
lion, in his belt was a sword of exceeding sharpness, the hilt of which was ivory
en wreathed with inlaid gold; in his hand was a javelin; and over his coat of mail
fell a short silken tunic of ruby colour embroidered with a lion of auric hue; and
all acknowledged that none could surpass him in dignity and beauty."
We can imagine the scene and the mixed feelings and intense interest of the
natives, as Kintyre thus passed to the Crown of Norway.
RISE OF SOMARLED
During the Norsemen's harrying there had been, at various times, some ambitious
and enterprising person who managed to rise to the rank of King of the Isles,
independent of both Norway and Scotland. Their headquarters were at the Isle of
Man. (The names of these petty kings indicate Norse origin; viz.: Godred,
Magnus, Olaf and Reginald. Frequently the Norwegian kings had to make special
visits to Scotland to subdue the rebellious underlords. Rival chieftains Contended
for kingship. The Fiongalls (fair strangers), the Dufgalls (dark strangers), Picts
and Scots, Irish and any foreigners joined in the scramble for territory and power,
like children, fighting for the pennies thrown on the street by wedding guests.
This was the state of matters when half a century after the time of Magnus
Barefoot the curtain rises on another scene in the history of Argyll.
In a cave in the wild, mountainous region of Morven, we see the man who was
the progenitor of so many West Highland clans, and became a character of more
than ordinary note.
A description of him is given by the sennachy Hugh Macdonald. 'He was a well
tempered man, of shapely body, of a fair piercing eye, of middle stature and
quick discernment.' His name is Norse, Somarled (the summer soldier). It is
probable his ancestry was a mixture of Celtic and Norse, his grandfather's and
father's names being Celtic.
He lay brooding in the cave over his own and his father's misfortunes,
misfortunes due to the troublous state of the country. As it happened the Morven
men had a very real grievance against Olaf the Red, King of Man. They had no
leader and could not get redress. At this particular time they were looking for a
strong man to lead them. The hour had come and here was the man.
Somarled agreed to lead them but only on condition that they would swear to
obey him as chief. They did so, and in a battle with the Danes, were victorious.
This victory spurred on Somarled to further conquests. Some of the Argathelians
or Argyll men who opposed him, were subdued.
He was bent on securing not only Isle of Man and the Western Isles but as much
of Argyllshire as possible. His position was strengthened by his marriage to
Effrica, daughter of Olaf the Red.
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The possession of Argyll aroused the ire of the rival chiefs and then sent a
message to King Malcolm IV to the effect that Somarled was becoming too
aggressive. /The king sent an army under Gilchrist, Thane of Angus. Somarled
collected an army and "joining battle they fought fiercely on both sides until
night parted them," Somarled being the victor.
Two or three years later the greed of the chieftain of the Isles led to trouble
between him and his brother-in-law, Godred, now King of Man. King Malcolm,
becoming tired of Somarled's avarice, sent an ultimatum stating that if the latter
would give up all his territory on the mainland and become a subject of Scotland
he would be forgiven for his past offences. The isles he could keep, but not
Argyll, and certainly not Kintyre. The cunning of King Magnus was neither
forgotten nor forgiven.
This demand led to what we now term "a crisis." Somarled regarded the message
as an insult, and said "he would lose all or possess all he had in the Highlands." A
royal force was sent to settle the matter. Somarled collected an army, shipped it
to Greenock, where he left his galleys. The two armies met at Renfrew in
January, 1164.
The Ulster annals record the result in these simple words "On the Kalends of
January Somarled McGill Adomnan and his son were slain. The greater part of
his troops from Ireland, Kintyre, Inis-gall and Dublin also perished."
In 1226 an agreement was drawn up between King Alexander III and Magnus IV
of Norway, regarding the sovereignty of Man and the' Isles. They were ceded to
Scotland, the Orkneys being excepted. Under this treaty any subject of Norway
was to be free to choose whether he would leave the Isles or remain a Scottish
Subject, ffhe Somarledians decided on the latter course.
In 1284 three great chieftains sat in thei Scottish Parliament which settled the
crown on the Maid of Norway. Alexander of Lorn, son of Eion or John
MacDugal, Angus, son of Donald, and Allan, son of Ruari, all in direct descent
from Somarled. These descendants from that time branched out under the names
of MacDonald, McDugall, MacRuari and others.
Robert the Bruce was befriended in Kintyre by Angus Oig MacDonald when the
future king's fortunes were at a very low ebb. MacDugall of Lorn sided with
Comyn, and when Bruce triumphed he took all Alastair Ewinson MacDougall's
possessions and gave them to the persons who had befriended him. Angus Oig
MacDonald was gifted with Mull, Coll, Tiree, Jura and other lands. He also
received a share of Comyn's Lochaber estate.
He died at Isla and was interred at Icolumbkille. Before his death he resigned his
lands in Kintyre to King Robert who was somewhat anxious regarding the fate of
his western dominions, if these were left entirely in the hands of Sumarlidians.
The vacant property was then given to Robert, son of Walter, the High Stewart of
Scotland, and the Princess Marjory Bruce.
But, though the MacDonalds were displaced it was only for a short time. David II
on his accession, for political reasons restored to the MacDonalds not only
Kintyre and the Isles which they formerly possessed but also gave them Morven,
Lochaber, Duror and Glencoe.
Reginald McRuari was given back Moidart, Knoydart, Arisaig and Morar,
besides the Isles of Uist, Barra, Rum and Eigg.
John of Isla married Amie, a sister of Reginald, and when Reginald died leaving
no heir, the two splendid heritages were united and the owner assumed the title of
"Lord of the Isles." He died in 1380 at his castle of Ardtonish in Morvern, and
was buried in lona " with great splendour by the ecclesiastics of the Isles, whose
attachment he has obtained by liberal grants to the Church, and who evinced their
gratitude by bestowing on him the appelation which tradition has handed down to
our days of ' the good John of Isla.'"
An interesting account is given by the MacDonald sennachy of the ceremony of
proclaiming the Lords of the Isles.
"The Bishop of Argyll, the Bishop of the Isles and seven priests were sometimes
present but a bishop was always present with the chieftains of the principal
families. There was a square stone seven or eight feet long and the tract of a
man's foot cut thereon upon which the ruler of the Isles stood denoting that he
should walk in the footsteps and uprightness of his predecessors, and that he was
installed by jight in his possessions. He was clothed in a white habit to show that
he would baf a light to his people and maintain the true religion. Then he
received a white rod in his hand intimating that he had power to rule not with
tyranny and partiality, but with discretion and sincerity. Next he was given his
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forefathers' sword or some other sword signifying that his duty was to protect and
defend his people."
The new Lord of the Isles feasted the people for a week after and gave "liberally
to the monks, poets, bards and musicians."
On top of the hillock to the West of Keil graveyard there are cut the impressions
of two right feet. These are usually referred to as "Columba's Footsteps." One,
however, is of recent date: the other is the one in which the Chief of the Clan
would place his foot when taking the oath.
The Clan; Ian Mhor MacDonald was the chief family in Kintyre at the end of the
fifteenth century, either through its own cadets or those who represented other
branches of the Clan, such as the Macalasters of Loup and Tarbert, Maceacherns
of Killellan, Mackays of Ugadale, and MacNeills of Carskey, Gallochelly and
(Tirfergus, cadets of tthe Clan MacNeill of Gigha.
In 1545 the four Marklands of the Mull of Kintyre and other lands in this parish,
formed part of the barony of Bar, granted by Queen Mary to James Makconnyll
of Dunnyveg and Glennys (James MacDonald of Dunnyveg and the Glens).
The rental of Kintyre and Isla in 1542 amounted to £1,663 4s: 8d. Scots money—
equal to about £140 sterling. Rents were then paid in kind, meal, meat, marts,
mutton, cheese and poultry. The income of the MacDonalds from their Kintyre
possessions was much larger than that from Isla and the Rhinns.
THE MacNEILLS OF CARSKEY
In the appendix to the volume "Argyll's Highlands" there is mention of the
ancient family of MacNeills of Carskey. At Dunaverty they fought on the side of
the Campbells but they were not always the enemies of the MacDonalds. On 18th
July, 1594, at Killeonane, Hector MacNeill of Carskey gave a Bond of Manrent
and Friendship on behalf of himself and his whole kith with surname and
promised to be faithful fosters and foster fathers to the Right Honourable James
Mak Conil of Smerby, their foster maintainer, defender and master above any
man, Angus Mak Conil excepted.
The document was signed by Ja. McConnal of Smerby and Hector MacNeill of
Carskey. Following these signatures comes a list of names — Liachlan Mor
MacNeill, John McGillie, Galium Vic Neill, Donald McClery Vic Neill,
Mulmorlie McNeill and others " with our hands led on the pen." The document
finishes thus " I, Donald Dhu McNeill, son of Hugh McNeill, with my hand
touching the pen. John. Stewart, witness and writer."
THE MacEACHRANS OF KILLELLAN
The MacEachrans are also mentioned in "Argyll's Highlands." They have been in
Kintyre from the earliest times. The names means horse-lord. It is mentioned in
the Irish Annals—846 A.D. as Echthighern.
"MacEachran of Killellan was killed at the taking of Dunaverty Castle in July,
1647. According to local tradition he was buried with MacDonald of Sanda and
Drain of Pennygowan in a tomb at Machribeg."
THE CAMPBELLS
In the thirteenth century the Campbells of Lochow held lands on the shores of
Loch Awe. Sir Nigel Campbell was. the companion of Bruce on one of the latter's
visits to Kintyre. Sir Nigel's devotion to the royal cause was very handsomely
rewarded, and from this time.the fortunes of the two great families, Campbells
and MacDonalds progressed side by side.
The Lords of Lochow and the descendents of Somarled were decidedly
antagonistic to each other. Sir Nigel's father, Colin or Cailean Mor, had met his
death at the hands of the Lorn MacDougalls. Therefore, although fortune smiled
on both, there were no congratulations extended to each other.
Early in the fifteenth century Sir Duncan Campbell of Loch Awe, afterwards first
Lord Campbell, was accounted one of the most wealthy barons in Scotland.
Colin, first Earl of Argyll, Sir Duncan's grandson, acquired by marriage the
extensive lordship of Lorn, and held for a long time the office of Chancellor of
Scotland.
When the MacDonalds fell away from their allegiance to the throne,v Argyll was
the person chosen-to execute a decree of outlawry against the last Lord of the
Isles. M'acDonald was charged with high treason and complicity with Edward IV
in a plot to overturn the Scottish throne. The decree was not carried out as the
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culprit threw himself on the king's mercy and surrendered his earldom with all his
castles and lands of Knapdale and Kintyre.
James IV had visited Kintyre on more than one occasion and in April, 1499, he
appointed Argyll to act as Royal Commissioner and Lieutenant over the Isles.
A member of the Campbell Clan had been made Constable of Tarbert Castle by
Robert the Bruce but now the family began to spread southwards from their
original seat, and a large part of the Church patronage with the overlord rights
passed to them.
The branch families of the MacDonalds were still very numerous in Kintyre and
with the coming of the Campbells trouble ensued. Greed and aggression,
resentment and revenge kept the peninsula in a state of turmoil until a halt was
called in 1513 when Scotland declared war on England. Clan quarrels were
forgotten for the moment. But, in the miserable time which followed Flodden, the
fighting was renewed with increased vigour.
The Campbells were on the side of the Crown. /The rebellious MacDonalds were
being rooted out. The latter struggled desperately to shake off the grip of their
enemies, but without success. Their misfortune culminated in the failure of the
risings of Mar and the Chevalier.
DUNAVERTY
On Dunaverty Rock there once stood a castle which was a famous stronghold of
the Macdonalds of Kintyre. The first mention of it in history is in a calendar of
Documents relating to Scotland 1108-1272.
"Jan. 30th, 1251. The King, at the instance of Margaret, Queen of Scotland and
his daughter, pardons to Allan, son of Thomas, Earl of Atholl, of Scotland, the
transgression charged against him in slaying some men of John Biset of Ireland,
and taking from some Irish merchants six casks (dolid) of wine and some corn at
the siege and storm of the Castle of Dunaverdin."
When Bruce was a fugitive in Kintyre, Macdonald sheltered him in Dunaverty
Castle. He was safely taken from there to Rathlin Island.
In 1647 General Leslie besieged the castle in which Angus Og Macdonald was
with three hundred men. Leslie cut off the water supply and the garrison was
forced to surrender. Every man was put to death with the exception of a James
Stewart of the Blackhall family of Renfrewshire. He asked leave first to read his
Bible. Stewart of Ard-voirlich was an officer under Leslie and he interceded on
behalf of his namesake. Leslie allowed James Stewart to . go free and "he lived to
be the ancestor of many respectable families in Kintyre."
One of the most interesting stories connected with the .siege is that of the escape
of the infant son of Archibald Macdonald and his brave nurse, Flora
MacCambridge. She had fled from the castle with the almost naked child in her
arms. As she ran she met Captain Campbell of Craignish who stopped her and
enquired whose child it was. She replied that it was her own. He seemed doubtful
and remarked: "It has the eye of a Macdonald, but no matter, it wants clothing."
He cut off the tail of his belted plaid and gave it to her. Moreover he warned her
not to continue along the beach to Kilcolmkil lest she should meet Leslie, but to
go to a place higher up the Glen. She took the path he indicated and reached a
cave afterwards known as "Mac-donald's cave," where the followers of the clan
kept her supplied with food until all danger was past. The infant thus spared was
Ranald Macdonald. He grew up to be the husband of Anne Stewart, sister of the
first Earl of Bute.
Tradition says that, after the massacre at Dunaverty, Argyll and Leslie literally
waded in blood.
A story illustrating the hatred which existed between the Campbells and
Macdonalds, is that after the battle, Neill MacNeill of Carskey who sided with
the Campbells, would not allow the Macdonalds to be buried in Keil, but insisted
that they should be interred in a field on the sea ishore. The place where Ranald
MacDonald's fattier and grandfather were buried is enclosed by a stone wall
which was erected by the late Reverend Douglas MacDonald who inherited the
Sanda property.
As years passed the old hatreds died down and it happened tnat a daughter of tne
Ranald Macdonald whose life was preserved in the cave, married Archibald
MacNeill of Carskey.
John Ranald Macdonald, who died about two years ago in Southern Rhodesia,
was the last male representative of the ancient Macdonalds of Sanda. He and his
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wife visited Southend about a year before his death. On his wife's finger was a
ring given to the bride from Bute by Ranald Macdonald two hundred and seventy
years before. In a conversation the visitor mentioned that although so many
Macdonalds had fled to Ireland before the massacre, Major Alister Macdonald, a
cousin of the rescued infant's grandfather made a brave effort to relieve the
garrison at Dunaverty. He gathered an army from Islay and Antrim and fought a
fierce battle with the Campbells on Brunerican sands about half a mile from the
Castle. His army was too .small to be effective as the Campbells vastly
outnumbered them.
"DEEDS OF PEACE"
We turn with relief from those "Who count it glorious to subdue - By conquest
far and wide" to the men who have attained good by means far different, "without
ambition, war or violence; by deeds of peace, by wisdom eminent."
Without ambition the early missionaries set out to jperform their deeds of peace.
Regardless of kings and princes, death and danger, they kept to their self-imposed
task the elevation of their fellow men. By their teachings and example they made
many converts and influenced the thoughts of their hearers into hitherto unknown
channels. They fostered a love for the beautiful in nature and in art. In a song
which is said to have been composed by St. Columba we have word pictures
which show appreciation of nature's charms. " The sound of the wind against the
elms; the joyous note of the blackbird as he claps his wings; the cooing of the
cuckoo from the tree on the brink of summer."
The spirit which appreciates is the spirit which will endeavour to preserve beauty
and peace.
In the dedication of an old chapel on Sanda we find the name of St. Ninian, who
was an apostle on the Scottish mainland, but it is to.the Irish Church that Kintyre
is indebted for the real beginnings of the Christian religion. St. Kiaran and St.
Columba were two of a band of saints who migrated to this district. St. Kiaran
lived in a cave three miles from Campbeltown, and St. Columba had his
headquarters at Kil-colomb cille—the cell of Columba. There are caves near the
cemetery in which according to tradition, the Saint lived for a period and nearby
is a green rocky knoll where Columba stood when he addressed the congregation.
The name of the knoll is Guala na pobuill, literally "the shoulder of the
congregation." There is a sacred spring of water bubbling out of the rock. The
spring is called the Priests' or Holy Well.
The existing church was built prior to the year 1326 before which date it was
granted to the canons of Whithern by Patrick MacShillinges and Finlach his wife,
the grant being confirmed by King Robert Bruce. The first church was probably
wattle walled. There are many interesting specimens of carved tombstones in the
old graveyard of Keil. The following was the opinion of Captain White, author of
"Archaeological Sketches in Kintyre," regarding the Western Scottish mediaeval
slabs.
"No existing type of monumental art is more entitled to notice—none bears more
distinctive marks of independent local working out—and in its own peculiar
sense none surpasses it in the realm of pure artistic beauty."
After the Reformation period there is a distinct change in the style of the
Memorial stones. Carving on tombstones and on church buildings was forbidden
and ugliness held sway.
There are remains of other chapels in Southend which are interesting to the
antiquarian. One is on the main road about four miles from the Mull. The name is
unknown. That it is very ancient is evident by the fact that there is a well beside
it, generally a sign of great antiquity.
Nothing but the site can be pointed out of either the old church of St. Blaan or
Kilblaan; all traces of these having disappeared by the end of the seventeeth
century. The earliest notice of its existence is 1527, when Sir Morice MacNeill,
its rector, died. The modern church which stands near is no older than 1774. St.
Blaan is said to have been a grandson of Aidan, a Dalriadic king who died in 606
A.D.
There are many other chapels in Southend: one at Carrine which some say is
dedicated to St. Catherine, a martyr who lived in the reign of Emperor Maximus.
Other authorities do not credit this assertion, and say that Carrine refers to Saint
Kiaran.
Another interesting name is that of a chapel which stood a few miles to the north
of the Mull. The name was Caidal Innean Coig Cailleach", "the resting place of
the five old women". These were nuns who had been driven out of Carrine in
Glenadale after the Reformation, finding a haven in Caidal Innean.
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The number of chapels may seem to be superfluous, but they were dotted here
and there for the convenience of the people who came to worship as each felt
inclined.
In contrast to the super-abundance of religious buildings of those earlier days, in
the solitary parish church of post-Reformation time. In 1798 a church was built at
the request of Lowland farmers who, of course, could not be expected to
understand a Gaelic service. It was poorly attended as the bulk of the residents in
the parish were Highlanders. The Lowlanders crossed from Ayrshire and
neighbouring counties about 1662, therefore a period of over a hundred and thirty
years elapsed before they had a church service which they could properly
understand.
In 1823 the Rev. Donald Kelly took a census of the Parish of Southend and
ascertained that 139 persons could speak Gaelic better than English, while only
50 favoured the Lowland tongue. In 1833, there were probably as many children
in Kintyre learning Gaelic, as there are m the Highlands to-day.
Among other "deeds of peace" we must mention the erection of the Mull of
Kintyre lighthouse. Work was begun on the structure in 1786 by Mr. Peter
Stewart of Campbeltown. It was a tower of wood, and the materials had to be
carried on men's shoulders as there was no road over the hills. The reflecting
lamp came from Edinburgh and is at present in the Campbeltown Museum.
In 1820 the tower was replaced by one of stone with a copper-domed roof. The
engineer was Mr. Robert Stevenson, grand-uncle of Robert Louis Stevenson. The
father of Robert Louis Stevenson was also an engineer in the lighthouse service,
and is said to have visited Campbeltown frequently with the lighthouse steamers.
Sir Walter Scott was one of the Commissioners and it was on one of his tours of
inspection that he visited the Hebrides and garnered the local information for his
poem " The Lord of the Isles."
Regarding the lighthouse keepers, Mr. William Smith, who wrote "Views of
Campbeltown" in 1835, states: "The present keeper, Mr. Harvie, has been about
thirty-three years in charge of the lighthouse, and is very civil and and attentive
to all strangers."
This was Matthew Harvie, the second lighthouse keeper.. He had. reared a family
of thirteen and educated them* himself, as school could not be attended, on
account of there being no road.
The assistant at that time was Thomas Train, grandfather of the Rev. Mr. Train, a
noted preacher who retired to Southend and was minister there in recent years.
Matthew Harvie's father was the first lightkeeper. He had farmed the fields
known as Harvie's acres and, continuing a custom of his forefathers, had kept a
light burning all night in the kitchen window of Balleymoil Farmhouse to warn
the mariners of the dangerous rocks. Balleymoil Farmhouse is now the residence
of Mr. and Miss Todd, just below, "The Gap."
We cannot leave the Mull without mentioning the "Goings" or in Gaelic
"Goinean." This is a footpath which traverses the face of a precipice near to and
to the east of the lighthouse. It was the only path round the Mull, before the
lighthouse was erected. It is little broader than a sheep track and no support is
afforded by the abrupt rising of the hill on one side, and the sheer precipice on
the other. It requires a sure foot and a strong head to cross it.
A story is told of a Highlander who once crossed the Goinean at night and on
horseback. He had imbibed rather unwisely and moreover was sound asleep. The
horse carried the owner safely over and when the man awoke he was horrified
when he thought of what might have happened. In the poem "The Heir of Lorn"
the hero says:—
"I crossed the Goings straightbound giddy height;
Where wild fowls shriek and witches ride' by night.
The startled hare before me bounding ran,
Up rose the grouse and whirring ptarmigan,
Till from you heathy hill beyond Carskey
I watched the dying glories of the day."
The population of Southend in 1755 was 1,391. In 1791: 1300. In 1821: 2,004. In
1831: 2,120. In 1841: 1,598. In 1851: 1,406, and in 1881: 955. The effect of
emigration in the years 1850-55 is noticeable.
These figures relate to the later emigration, but there has been a greater exodus
three centuries before. Antrim in the north of Ireland was largely peopled from
9
Kintyre and Islay. The house of Argyll devoted themselves to rooting out the old
inhabitants and such as were known to favour the Macdonalds.
The Rev. George Hill, in his work ' The Macdonells of Antrim" makes frequent
reference to this and in one passage says "There is proof how completely the old
native population of Cantyre has been swept off to make room for farmers and
shepherds, principally from Ayrshire and Renfrewshire, brought thence by
Argyll".
The Macdonalds of Kintyre are represented in the north of Ireland by descendants
of the famous "Coll Kiotach."
Between the years 1647 and 1666 Kintyre was ravaged by plague, and the toll
was so great that the land was almost desolated. It is said that during the worst
part of the scourge smoke issued from three houses only: Keil, Craig, and
Knockhanty.
Those who fled from the district thereby escaping, 'returned later and took
possession of their native places.'
The following notes on old Celtic names in Kintyre extracted from MSS of the
Rev. Donald Kelly, M.A. Minister of the parish of Southend, are very interesting.
These notes-appeared in the "Campbeltown Courier."
"The O'Mays, Lairds of Keil, who until lately were proprietors in the parish,
would appear in, the seventeenth century to have educated some of their sons for
the church, for the Rev. Donald O'May, minister of Kilvivan and Kilmichael, is
said to have been later a bishop; and his brother the Rev. Duncan O'May, minister
of Kilcolmkeil and Kilblaan, who conformed to the Presbyterian establishment,
and was laird of Keil."
In the Parish of Southend, of the old Celtic proprietors the O'Mays still retain
their original name. Most of the others have changed their names. The
McO'Drains, who were lairds of Carrine and Drumavoulin are now called Drain.
The last of these old lairds was Donald McO'Drain, one of the three officers who
lie buried at Machribeg. He was in the Wars of Montrose with Alister MacColla
Macdonald and is said to have been a brave and resolute officer.
Archibald Drain who lived in Dunglas during the Rev. Donald Kelly's
incumbency there, was, according to the minister's MSS, decended from Donald
Drain. Mr. Archibald Montgomery, schoolmaster in Campbeltown, is a grandson
of this Archibald Drain of Dunglas.
In the first valuation roll of Kintyre, the rental of Hugh McO'Shanaig's property
of Lephinstrath is entered at £6 19s. 9d. One of this family the Rev. Malcolm
M'O'Shanaig was minister of Kilcolmkeil and Kilblaan in 1630. The family left
Southend and took a farm in Arran, named Sliddery, and changed their name to
Shannon.
Another race of the ancient lairds was the M'A'Chalies or in English MacSwan,
proprietors of Craigaig and Innan-beg, whose name, since English has become so
common in Kintyre, has lapsed into Kelly. In the Presbyterian records the name
is spelt MacSwen, which seems to indicate Scandinavian origin, as the minister
of Kilcolmonell, the Rev. Swen MacSwen and likewise the minister of Jura,
Colonsay and Gigha have their names spelt Macswen in the records. The
Scandinavians use an 'e ' where we use an 'a.'
It will be within the recollection of some living people that a change house,
named ' The Sign of the Swan ' kept by
a family named Kelly, existed for some time at the Old Quay Head at
Campbeltown. It would be tedious to enumerate the many other families which
had their names changed, but we may mention a few.
The McFigans now call themselves Littleson. The O'Loynachan dropped the 0'
for a long time, but eventually became Lang. The McO'Stokers are now Stalkers.
The McO'Levechels are Carmichaels; O'Brolochan become Brody. There is a
flagstone in Kilcalmonell which is thought to cover the remains of the celebrated
Bishop O'Brolochan.
Peter O'Brolochan, Bailie Colin Campbell from Mull, and John Campbell had the
Mull of Kintyre from 1780 until 1799. After their lease had run out, the Duke of
Argyll ordered the Mull to be made into lots, when Robert Colville obtained
Glenanuilt and the two Borgadles. Carskey got Braelamountgomery and
Bailevearhil. Archibald Campbell got Innan Dunan and Strone. George, Donald,
and William Campbell had Innean Beach. George afterwards had Innan
Goachallach, and Peter O'Brolochan and Thomas Train and Innan More and
Innan Beg.
10
There are those who think that the Clan O'Dinnie of Lochodh (now the Clan
Campbell) may, like the McA'Chalies, be of Scandinavian origin. O'Dinnie
means Odin—"which is a Scandinavian name."
While the Highlander has always been very hospitable to visitors, he resented the
influx of 'Low Country' settlers. Perhaps it was expecting too much of the native
population that they should view with pleasure the best farm-lands in Kintyre,
occupied by 'incomers' brought over by the new owner. The settlers spoke an
alien tongue and, moreover, regarded the Highlanders as partly savage. Each
looked oh the other with an unfriendly eye; even in deatfy the division was
continued. It is said that a portion of ground was added to Keil graveyard to meet
the difficulty experienced by the 'strangers' in burying their dead. A little stream
divided the Highland from the Lowland portion, the former being on the eastern,
the latter on the western.
For generations the two peoples kept to themselves, each marrying only among
their "ain folk." By and by when pride and prejudice weakened, the younger folks
met and "love levelled the barriers" Even when the older people were none too
pleased. The stern old Highlanders had a contemptuous expression for the
offspring of the mixed race 'siolls Ghall'—half breed, they called them.
There is a prophecy regarding the Sioll Ghalls, which was uttered some centuries
before the Lowland occupation. "There is a tree in Southend growing out of a
circular space in the rock, and when the tree fills the space a great battle will be
fought on the west side of Campbeltown, near to Drumore, where a great
slaughter will take place, and the crows will drink human blood off a standing
stone; then shall come to pass the saying 'Bidh na Sioll Ghall air dheirliadh's cha
ghabhair ead a bhos no thol'—'The half Lowlander and the half Highlander will
be behind and will not be received on either side.' The tree has filled the circular
space and the standing stone was removed and did duty over the miller's burn for
a considerable time. It was again removed owing to an alteration in the footpath.
It would seem, therefore, that the prophet had 'prophesied a false vision.'
The clan wars have ceased long ago, the hatred of the Highlanders and
Lowlanders has died out. We are advancing.
To keep the happy homesteads and the pleasant pastures in security, we hope that
between the nations there will be "new bridged relations, bridges from man to
man, the whole round earth to span." And with this hope we leave Southend.