Hello dear friends. Paddington Bear is a fictional character in children’s literature.

First introduced on 13 October 1958, it has appeared in more than twenty books
written by British author Michael Bond and illustrated by Peggy Fortnum and other
artists. Today we will crochet Paddington bear amigurumi. Pretty cute pattern. I can
say that the teddy bear itself is very easy to make and is at the beginner level.
However, the making of the amigurumi jacket is quite detailed and difficult. One of the
biggest reasons for this is that such clothes are quite small.
Today we are adding a new amigurumi pattern to the teddy bear patterns. One of
the most beautiful features of this pattern is that it is on your clothes. Recently,
amigurumi clothes have started to attract a lot of attention. Now let’s crochet the
Paddington bear amigurumi.
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PDF Mini Paddington Bear Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

Designer: scandistyle_dolls
Materials
1. Yarn (brown, beige, red, blue). I use fine chenille yarn for the bear, Alize Angora
Real 40 yarn for the clothes.
2. Black fine thread for decoration.
3. Crochet hook sizes 1,5 mm and 2 mm.
4. Plastic eyes size 4 mm, glue.
5. Polyester fiberfill, needle, pins, scissors.
Size of the bear is about 10 cm.

Abbreviations
MR – magic (amigurumi) ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
slst – slip stitch
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Legs
1 – 6 sc in MR
2 – 6 inc (12)
3 – (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
4-5 – 18 sc (2 rounds)
6 – 6 dec, 6 sc (12)
7-11 – 12 sc (5 rounds) – stuff.
Cut the thread on the first leg, make the second leg similarly, do not cut the thread on
the second leg.
Continue crocheting the body.
Make 3 ch from the second leg, next:
12 – 12 sc on the first leg, 3 sc along the chain, 12 sc on the second leg, inc, 1 sc,
inc (increases in front), place marker (32)
13 – (7 sc, inc)*4 (36)
14-20 – 36 sc (7 rounds)
21 – (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
22 – 30 sc
23 – (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
24 – (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
25 – (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
26 – 12 sc, work the round to the middle of the back – stuff. Next we will crochet the
head, do not cut the thread.
Head
27 – 12 inc (24)
28 – (1 sc, inc)*12 (36)
29-37 – 36 sc (9 rounds)
38 – (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
39 – (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
40 – (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
41 – (1 sc, dec)*6 (12) – stuff.
42 – 6 dec
Cut the thread, tighten the opening with a needle, secure the thread and weave in the
ends.
Ears (make 2)
Work in turning rows.
1 – 6 sc in MR, ch, turn
2 – (1 sc, inc)*3 (9), ch, turn
3 – 9 sc
Cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.
Arms (make 2)
1 – 6 sc in MR
2 – 6 inc (12)
3-5 – 12 sc (3 rounds)
6 – 3 dec, 6 sc (9)
7-14 – 9 sc (8 rounds)
Stuff the lower part of the arm. Cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing. Fold the
edges of the arm together and sew them up with a needle.
Muzzle
Beige yarn.
1 – 6 sc in MR
2 – 2 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc (10)
3 – (1 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc (14), slst in the end
Cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.
Assembly
1 – sew on the ears from 4th to 9th rounds (count from the crown).
2 – sew on the muzzle from 10th to 14th rounds, stuff as you go.
3 – glue on the eyes between 9th and 10th rounds, there are about 7 sc between the
eyes.
4 – embroider a nose and a mouth on the beige muzzle, embroider a vertical stripe
between them.
5 – sew on the arms one round lower the neck.
6 – embroider 3 stitches on each arm and leg making claws.
Hat
Red yarn, crochet hook size 2 mm.
1 – 6 sc in MR
2 – 6 inc (12)
3 – (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 – (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 – (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 – in back loops only 30 sc
7 – (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
8 – 36 sc
9 – (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
10 – (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
11 – 48 sc
12 – in front loops only 48 sc
13 – (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
14 – 54 sc
15 – (8 sc, inc)*6 (60), make a slst st in the end.
Cut and secure the thread, weave in the ends inside the fabric.
Jacket
Blue yarn, crochet hook size 2 mm. In the following description of the jacket, R is 3 sc
in 1 stitch (R means raglan). The jacket is crocheted in turning rows, it means that
you need to make 1 ch and turn the work in the end of each row.
1– make 27 ch (the chain should be equal to the circumference of the toy’s neck + 3-
4 stitches on each side of the chain to create a wrap over + 1 turning chain), then
work from the second stitch from the hook: 26 sc.
Then you need to divide the resulting length into 4 parts: front, the first sleeve, back,
the second sleeve, front + 4 stitches for raglan. I got it like this: 5 stitches (front),
raglan (1 stitch), 3 stitches (first sleeve), raglan (1 stitch), 6 stitches (back), raglan (1
stitch), 3 stitches (second sleeve), raglan (1 stitch), 5 stitches (front). To determine
the number of stitches, simply attach the chain to the toy and measure how many
stitches you need for the sleeve and for the back. The remaining stitches will go to
the front (remember to set aside 4 raglan stitches). Also, do not forget that the jacket
must be with a wrap over.
Next, I will give a description for my parameters, and you should focus on your
calculations. The bottom line is simple – each time a raglan (3 sc in 1 stitch) must be
crocheted into the stitch before the beginning of the sleeve and into the stitch
immediately after the sleeve.
2 – 5 sc (front), R, 3 sc (the first sleeve), R, 6 sc (back), R, 3 sc (the second sleeve),
R, 5 sc (front) (34)
3 – 6 sc, R, 5 sc, R, 8 sc, R, 5 sc, R, 6 sc (42)
4 – 7 sc, R, 7 sc, R, 10 sc, R, 7 sc, R, 7 sc (50)
5 – 8 sc, R, 9 sc, R, 12 sc, R, 9 sc, R, 8 sc (58)
6 – 9 sc, R, 11 Sc, R, 14 sc, R, 11 Sc, R, 9 sc (66)
7– 10 sc, R, 13 sc, R, 16 sc, R, 13 sc, R, 10 sc (74)
In the next row, we will separate the sleeves. Check if the number of sleeve stitches
is enough for you. If there is not enough, crochet the required number of rows with
raglan before starting to separate the sleeves. If the sleeve turns out to be wide, then
you need to dissolve one or more rows.
8 – 11 sc (front), the first sleeve: 17 sc, ch, turn (there are 4 rows 17 sc each in total),
then fold the sleeve in half with right sides together and connect the edges with slip
stitches. In the meantime, do not cut off the thread. Next work: 18 sc (back), the
second sleeve: 17 sc, ch, turn (there are 4 rows 17 sc each in total), then fold the
sleeve in half with right sides together and connect the edges with slip stitches. Then
11 sc (front). Thus, the sleeves are completely ready and there are no extra threads
and knots.
9 – 11 sc, inc (under sleeve), 18 sc, inc (under sleeve), 11 sc (44) 10-14 – 44 sc (5
rows)
Cut off and secure the thread, weave in the ends inside the fabric.
Attach the blue thread to the 5th stitch on top of the jacket (this is the place where
you want the hood to start), work 18 sc (or another number of stitches on top) , the
main thing is that the same number of stitches remains on the other end to create a
wrap over), then make 1 ch and turn. Next, crochet 15 rows of 18 sc in turning rows
(16 rows in total). Then fold the top edge of the hood in half and connect the edges
with slip stitches from the wrong side. Cut off and secure the thread, weave in the
ends inside the fabric.
Attach the blue thread to the very beginning of the top of the jacket and work along
the collar and hood with sc. Cut off and secure the thread, weave in the ends inside
the fabric.
Next, sew the button to the jacket so that it fastens. Make decorative fasteners with
brown thread. I did them like this: on one half of the jacket I made a loop from a chain
of ch, and on the second half – a knot. Then put the loop on the knot.
Put the hat and the jacket on the bear.

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