Automotive Services

Manual
Transmissions
 Introduction (Hook)

What challenges can be identified by a manual transmission failure

Or fault.
 Outcome

Why is it important for you to learn this skill?

Many manual transmission equipped vehicles are produced each year, as
technicians, you have to develop an effective diagnostic and repair
strategies to meet these challenges.

When you have completed this module, you will be able to :

Diagnose a manual transmission
 Objectives

At the end of this module Automotive Services year 2 students will be able to:

• Describe the purpose, construction and operation of a manual transaxle and

its components.
• Disassemble and reassemble a manual transmission using a shop manual.
• Adjust manual transmission linkages.
• Diagnose problems related to manual transmissions.
 Objective One
At the end of this module Automotive Services year 2 students will be able to:

• Describe the purpose, construction and operation of a manual transaxle and

its components.
 Purpose
Manual transmissions are found on vehicles with rear wheel drive. The engine is
mounted
longitudinally and the transmission is mounted to the rear of the engine. Although
the
majority of vehicles produced today are front wheel drive, a large number of rear
wheel
drive vehicles are still produced each year, the next slide is a comparison of rear
wheel drive to front wheel drive.
 Construction
• Most transmission housings are made of aluminium to reduce weight and
increase fuel economy. Some older models were made of cast iron. The gears
and the shafts that the gears are mounted on are made of hardened steel
because they transmit the torque of the engine and must be very strong. The
bearings that support the shafts carry a tremendous load and are made of
hardened steel. The synchronizer units are also made of hardened steel, except
for the blocking rings, which are made of a soft metal such as brass. Because the
blocking ring works against the surface of the output gear, it must be made of a
softer metal to protect the gear from damage. Thrust washers are used to
control end play and are usually made of soft material as well, such as brass or
nylon.
 Construction
Note that the input shaft and the output shaft in the diagram below appear to be
one shaft.
This is not the case. As you learned in Manual Transmission Fundamentals, the front
of the
output shaft is machined to fit in a bearing bore in the rear of the input shaft. This
allows
the two shafts to rotate at different speeds. The only time the input and output
shafts
rotate at the same speed is when they are locked together in either 3rd or 4th gear.
 Construction
although the cluster gears are involved in every reduction gear, the output is
always through the output shaft.

Materials used in transmission construction

Manual Transmission
vid
 Objective Two
At the end of this module Automotive Services year 2 students will be able to:

Disassemble and reassemble a manual transmission using a shop manual.

 Transmission Disassembly and Reassembly

• Before a transmission can be completely disassembled, it must be removed

from the vehicle. The transmission removal and disassembly procedure varies
with each vehicle, so it is imperative that you follow the manufacturer's
removal and disassembly procedures to avoid damage and wasted time. You
must be aware of some important things before you begin to remove a
transmission, including some safety issues. Transmissions are very heavy and if
proper precautions are not followed damage to the vehicle and serious
personal injury may result.
 Transmission Disassembly and Reassembly

• When disassembling a transmission it is necessary to mark some parts for

location.
• If these parts are not reassembled as they were removed,
you may have to redo your repair
• to correct a problem that was not there before the repair.
 Removal

• Cleanliness and close inspection of the parts are very important at every step
of the repair process.
• As you will learn in Objective Four, a thorough and proper diagnosis must be
performed before the transmission is removed for repair.
• Some transmission service can be performed without removing the unit from
the vehicle. If your diagnosis determines that defective synchronizers, gears,
bearings or shafts are the cause of the complaint, the transmission will
generally have to be removed
 Removal
• 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. This prevents accidental electrical
shorts or unwanted cranking of the engine.
• 2. Remove the distributor cap if it is at the rear of the engine. With the
transmission distributor cap can break if it hits the bulkhead.
• 3. Remove the upper clutch housing bolts if the clutch housing is part of the
transmission case
4. It may also be necessary to install an engine holding fixture to support the
engine
 Removal
• 5. If the transmission has internal shift linkage, move the shift lever to the neutral
position and remove the boot and the gearshift tower assembly. If the
transmission has an external floor shifter, remove the shifter knob and rubber
boot.
• 6. Raise the vehicle on a hoist so that the vehicle is high enough for you to remove
the transmission. Make sure that the vehicle is secure before working under it.
• 7. Drain the transmission oil by removing the drain plug or one of the extension
housing bolts . If it is not possible to drain the oil, have a drain pan
nearby when you remove the driveshaft because oil will leak out when you slide
the slip yoke off the transmission output shaft.
 Removal
• 8. Mark the driveshaft at the differential so that it can be reinstalled in the
same
• location on assembly. You might create a driveline vibration if this step is
omitted.
• 9. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the exhaust pipes to give you
enough clearance to lower the transmission.
• 10. Remove the driveshaft and the centre support bearing if so equipped.
• Disconnect the clutch linkage from the clutch fork and remove the clutch
inspection cover.
 Removal
• 12. Remove the starter (this step only has to be completed if the clutch housing is
• part of the transmission housing).
• 13. If the transmission has external (column shift) linkage, disconnect the shift
• linkage. If an external floor shift is used, also remove the shifter mechanism
• assembly and pull the shifter handle through the hole in the floor pan.
• 14. Remove the speedometer sensor connector (or cable) and the backup light
switch
• connector, along with any other electrical connectors. Use masking tape to mark
• these connectors and secure them out of the way.
 Removal
• 15. You may have to remove the parking brake linkage if it is attached to the
transmission cross-member.
16. If you omitted installing an engine holding fixture (Step 4) support the engine
with a jack placed under the rear of the engine.
17. Place a transmission jack under the transmission and secure it to the jack with
the
safety chains or straps provided . Raise the transmission with the jack
just enough to take the weight off the transmission cross-member. Remove the
bolts that hold the cross-member to the frame and remove the cross-member.
Use a chain to secure the transmission when using a
floor jack.
 Removal
• 18. Remove the transmission attaching bolts. Most transmissions attach to the clutch
housing with four bolts. If the clutch housing and transmission case are one unit,
remove the rest of the clutch housing bolts.
• 19. Install two guide studs, either through the clutch housing into the engine block (if
the clutch housing and transmission share the same case) or through the
transmission into the clutch housing . Guide studs ensure that the
transmission can slide straight back until the input shaft clears the clutch
assembly. If the weight of the transmission hangs on the clutch, it could damage
the clutch disc.
 Removal
• 20. Carefully roll the transmission jack straight back until the input shaft of the
transmission clears the clutch assembly.
CAUTION
Do not let the transmission hang unsupported once the transmission
attaching bolts have been removed. Severe damage to the clutch may result.

• 21. Lower the transmission jack and roll the jack with the transmission
attached carefully to the workbench
Manual Transmission Removal vid.
 Disassembly

Before performing any disassembly, thoroughly clean the exterior of the

transmission. You can use cleaning solvent if the transmission is extremely oily
or a high-pressure washer can be used.
• The following procedure is intended as a general guide only and is not meant
to replace the service manual for the specific disassembly procedure for the
transmission you are working on.
 Disassembly
1. Remove the gearshift lever assembly if it has not been removed
 Disassembly

• 2. Remove the inspection cover and thoroughly examine all gears by turning
the
input shaft . If possible, select each gear and inspect the operation of
the transmission.
Continue to rotate the input shaft as you are doing this and
observe transmission action, the condition of the gears and synchronizers
 Disassembly
• 3. Mark the front bearing retainer to case location. It is critical that the
front bearing retainer be returned to its original location because it may have an
oil return groove that mates to a drain back hole in the case. Inspect throw-out
bearing retainer surface for wear.
 Disassembly
• 4. Remove the front bearing retainer and the front bearing retainer seal. A
special puller may be required to remove the seal.
• 5. Remove the input shaft if possible
• 6. The input shaft bearing can be removed next and may require a special
puller.
• 7. If the input shaft could not be removed in step 5, you should be able to
remove it once the bearing is out; if not, leave it loose in the case until you
remove the output shaft.
• 8. The next component to be removed is the extension housing.
 Disassembly
• 9. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance of the output gears and
compare your measurement with the manufacturer's published specifications .
If the clearance is excessive, look for wear on the sides of the gears or the
thrust washers.
 Disassembly
• 10. If the shift forks and internal linkage were not removed with the inspection
cover, they must be removed from the case at this point. Before removing
them, mark the forks and shift rails so they can be installed in the same
location during assembly.
• 11. Carefully remove the output shaft assembly.
• 12. Remove the cluster gear and shaft. It is common to have needle bearings
and thrust washers drop to the bottom of the case at this point. They can be
easily retrieved after the cluster shaft and gears are removed. Also, remove the
reverse idler shaft and gears.
 Disassembly
• 13. Starting at the front of the output shaft, begin disassembling the output
shaft. The synchronizer units and gears are held in place with snap rings. Some
snap rings can be removed using two screwdrivers or may require special snap
ring pliers. Two methods of removing a snap ring.

• 14. Mark each synchronizer sleeve and its corresponding hub so they can be
reassembled exactly as they came apart.
• 15. Disassemble the shift linkage (if mounted in the inspection cover) and
remove any seals or bearings that have not been removed to this point.
 Inspection
• With the transmission completely disassembled, the next step is to clean the
transmission
case and all the other internal parts in cleaning solvent. Thoroughly examine
each part
and compare it to specifications if applicable to determine which parts must be
replaced.
Blow-dry the bearings and visually inspect them. Lightly oil each bearing and
rotate them
in your hand, checking for roughness.
 Inspection
• Check all gears for obvious damage and excessive wear. Carefully inspect each gear
for
cracks and chipped teeth. Gears should be replaced if there are any signs of damage
or
excessive wear.
Synchronizer units are especially prone to wear and damage and should be
thoroughly
examined . Check for excessive wear on the inner and outer splines of the
hub, the inner splines on the sleeve and the fork groove on the back of the sleeve.
Inspection
 Inspection
• The blocking rings should be inspected for broken or worn teeth and the ridges
on the inside of the blocking rings should be sharp . Ridges that are not sharp
reduce the effectiveness of the blocking ring.
 Inspection
• If the fine ridges on the inside of the blocking are worn excessively, the
blocking ring
• will be able to move too close to the clutch teeth on the output gear, possibly
resulting in
• gear clash. The manufacturer may specify a minimum clearance that can be
checked with
• a feeler gauge can be used to show how to check the clearance between the
blocking ring and the output gear clutch teeth with a feeler gauge.
 Inspection
• Measure the thickness of flanges to help you decide if thicker thrust washers
will be needed during the assembly procedure.
 Inspection
• Use V-blocks and a dial indicator to check for output shaft runout.
 Inspection
• Some manufacturers require you to measure the clearance between the outer
sleeve and the shift fork. This measurement can be made with a feeler blade.
 Inspection
In addition to those checks found in this section, the service manual may require other
checks and measurements to help you determine which parts are useable and which
parts
will have to be replaced. Always follow the manufacturer's procedures and
recommendations to ensure that you do not miss any items. What makes a
professional
technician stand out from the rest is that no part, no matter how insignificant it may
seem,
is overlooked or missed in the inspection.
 Assembly
Because there are so many different transmissions, this section can only describe in a
general way some details to guide you through the assembly procedure and emphasize
some important highlights common to many, but not all, transmissions. Before
assembling any transmission make sure you have all the correct replacement parts by
matching them to the old parts. Lubricate each part with the correct lubricant before
assembly.
Begin the assembly process with the synchronizers and be careful to align the marks that
you made during disassembly on the hubs and sleeves . Test the assembled
synchronizers to make sure the sleeve slides freely over the external splines of the hub.
Inspection
 Inspection
• Once the synchronizer units are assembled, you can assemble the output
shaft. Check each snap ring to ensure that it fits snug in its groove on the shaft.
Snap rings control end play and end thrust.
• If the snap ring does not fit snugly in its groove, it should be replaced.
Replacement snap rings are available in various thicknesses. The reuse of snap
rings is not recommended by most manufacturers.
• Assemble the output shaft carefully, sliding each gear and synchronizer
assembly onto the shaft in the proper order
 Inspection
• Once you have installed the final snap ring, make sure each gear turns freely
on the shaft. Install the rollers that make up the output shaft pilot bearing in
the rear of the input shaft. Use heavy grease to hold them in position during
assembly.
 Inspection
NOTE

• The input shaft on some transmissions cannot be installed with the cluster
shaft in place. It may be necessary to remove the cluster shaft after you have
checked end play and let the cluster gear sit in the bottom of the case until the
input and output shafts are installed.

• Use heavy grease to hold the cluster and reverse idler thrust washers in the
case. Install the cluster and reverse idler gears and shafts
 Inspection
• Use a dial indicator or a feeler gauge to check the end play on both the cluster
and the reverse idler. The measurement should be within specification. If it is
not, install a thicker or thinner thrust washer to bring the reading into
specification. A dial indicator can be used to check cluster end play.
 Inspection
Install the assembled output shaft in the case. Install the input shaft, taking care not to
dislocate any of the rollers in the rear of the input shaft as you align the nose of the output
shaft with the pilot bearing. Install the input and output shaft bearings. Line up the marks
you made during disassembly and install the front bearing retainer and gasket. Torque the
fasteners and lightly lube the hub for the throwout bearing. Install the extension housing
and gasket and torque the bolts to specification. You may have to use selective shims to
adjust preload if the input shaft has a tapered roller bearing
Inspection
 Inspection
Once all of the internal components are installed, rotate the input shaft to be sure it turns
freely. Check the operation of the transmission in each gear. The input and output shafts
must turn freely without binding in each gear. Measure the end play of each output gear
to ensure that the installed clearances are correct.
Install the shift forks and shift rails. Replace the shift cover and/or inspection cover and
gaskets and torque the bolts to specification. Reinstall the gearshift lever mechanism
(internal or external) and check the linkage operation. Reinstall any other external
components, such as the speedometer sensor, drain plug, shift detent assemblies and
reverse light switch.
If the clutch housing is integral to the transmission housing, lubricate the throw-out
bearing and install it on the hub of the input bearing retainer. Install the clutch fork and
connect it to the throw-out bearing.
 Installation
• Transmission installation is the reverse of removal, but you should always follow the
• service manual procedure. The following can be used as a general guide, but specific
• details will be different for every make and model.
• 1. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack or floor jack as in the removal
• process. Position the transmission directly behind the engine.
• 2. Lightly lube the transmission pilot bearing.
• 3. Make sure the guide studs are in place, raise the transmission and align it with the
• engine and the guide studs
Installation
 Installation
• 4. Move the transmission forward, passing the input shaft through the throwout
bearing and aligning with the splines of the clutch disc. The nose of the input
shaft fits snugly into the pilot shaft bushing and may require moderate force. The
dowel pins on the rear of the engine also fit snugly into the holes on the clutch
housing (if the clutch housing is integral to the transmission).

5. Install the clutch housing or transmission attaching bolts and torque to

specification. Watch for wires, vacuum hoses or anything else that could get
caught between the transmission and the engine. Make sure the transmission and
clutch housing are flush with no gaps between the mating surface
 Installation
6. To install the transmission cross-member, raise the transmission slightly, fit the
Cross-member under the transmission and install the mount bolts. Then, install the
Cross-member to the frame attaching bolts and lower the transmission slightly.
Torque all the cross-member bolts to specification and remove the transmission
jack.
7. Fit the external gearshift lever (if so equipped) through the hole in the floor and
bolt the linkage assembly to the extension housing. Adjust the linkage will be covered in
(Objective 3) and attach the rods (either column or floor shift) to the levers.
 Installation
8. Reconnect the parking brake linkage, any electrical connectors, speedometer
cable or connector and the exhaust pipes if they were removed.
9. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly, making sure to align the marks you made
during removal.
10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with the recommended fluid and install
the filler plug.
11. Adjust the clutch.
12. Lower the vehicle and install the boot and shifter knob.
 Installation
13. Reconnect the battery cable and reinstall the distributor cap and anything
else
that you disconnected under the hood during removal.
14. Check the operation of the clutch by depressing the pedal a few times and
move
the gearshift lever to check the operation of the shift linkage.
15. Finally, road-test the vehicle and fine tune any adjustments required before
returning the vehicle to the owner.
Installation
 Objective Three
At the end of this module Automotive Services year 2 students will be able to:

Adjust manual transmission linkages

 Linkage Adjustment
A manual transmission linkage is in constant use, especially in stop and go
traffic.
Because of this constant use, the linkage and especially the pivot points are
subject to
wear. Wear is often accelerated by the lack of lubrication, which causes
looseness.
Excessive looseness leads to binding and may also contribute to the
transmission not fully engaging the selected gear.
 Linkage Adjustment
Regardless of how well a transmission is repaired, if the shift linkage is not in good
working order and properly adjusted it will be difficult for the driver to shift gears. Make
sure the linkage is properly lubricated and adjusted to ensure smooth and effective
operation of the transmission. Each manufacturer has a specific method for adjusting
linkage, so be sure to follow the appropriate service manual procedure for the vehicle
you
are working on.
 Linkage Adjustment
The vehicle may be equipped with external column shift, external floor shift or
internal
floor shift linkage. Regardless of the style of linkage, the adjustment must begin
with the
transmission in the neutral position.
Linkage Adjustment vid
 Floor Shift Linkage
Column shift linkage, which was popular at one time, has largely been replaced with the
simpler floor shift design. Floor shifts can be internal or external design.
• Internal Design
Internal floor shifts are very common on today's vehicles (Figure 31). This type of shift
linkage has the shift rods inside the transmission and rarely requires service or
adjustment. If problems with the shift linkage are indicated, all parts should be inspected
for wear or damage and replaced as necessary.
Internal linkage floor shift
 External Design
This type of linkage
uses the same type of adjustment as external column shift linkage. Move the gearshift
lever to the neutral position and raise the vehicle on a hoist. Verify that the transmission
is in neutral by rotating the drive shaft.
Disconnect the rods from the shift levers. Each lever has three positions. If the
transmission was not in neutral, move each shift lever to the centre (neutral) position. To
ensure that the linkage stays in the neutral position during the adjustment procedure, an
alignment tool
 External Design
Loosen the locknuts on either side of the swivel and turn the threaded swivel until it is
centred to the hole in the shift lever. Once it is centred, tighten the locknuts. Before you
insert the swivel into the shift lever, make sure the bushings and spring washer are in
good condition. Lubricate the end of the swivel and the bushing with water-resistant
grease. Refer to the service manual for the recommended lubricant. Install a Belleville
spring, insert the swivel into the hole in the shift lever and install a washer and spring clip
to secure the swivel to the shift lever. Repeat this process for the other shift rods. Once
all
the shift rods have been inspected and adjusted, remove the alignment tool.
External linkage - floor shift.
 External Design
Shift levers, rods and linkages are generally trouble-free, but the insert bushings
in the
shift levers and the shift mechanism tend to wear out and can cause looseness.
When this
happens, replacement maybe required as lubrication and adjustment will not
cure the
problem.
 Objective Four
At the end of this module Automotive Services year 2 students will be able to:

Diagnose problems related to manual transmissions.

 Diagnosis
The key to successful transmission troubleshooting is to have a thorough
understanding
of how a transmission works. Once you comprehend the principles on which all
transmissions are built, most transmissions can be diagnosed quite easily. If your
diagnosis is thorough, you should have a fairly good idea of the cause of the
problem and
what to expect before you remove the transmission from the vehicle
 Diagnosis
Before you remove a transmission for disassembly or overhaul, you must make
sure that
the transmission is the source of the customer's complaint. A driveshaft
problem, a clutch
problem, a differential problem or even a rear spring problem can be
misdiagnosed as a
transmission problem. Always road-test the vehicle and if possible take the
customer with
you to make sure you fully understand the nature of the complaint.
 Diagnosis
• You may have to drive the vehicle under some very specific conditions to cause
the
• symptom to repeat. In what gear does the problem occur? At what speed does
the
• problem occur? Does the problem exist when the clutch is engaged or
disengaged? Does
• the problem occur in every gear? Does the noise occur when accelerating or
decelerating?
Once you have clearly identified the problem the vehicle should be raised on a hoist. The
next step in your diagnosis should be a visual inspection. Is the transmission packed with
mud? Is the vent plugged? Is there a visible oil leak? Is the mount in good condition? Are
there any loose bolts on the extension housing, the mount, the side or top cover? Are the
drain plugs and fill plugs tight?
You should also check the driveline to make sure the u-joints, driveshaft and centre
support bearing are all in good condition. Visually inspect the rear springs, hanger bolts,
centre bolts and shackles. If you think the problem could be caused by several different
components, always eliminate the easiest solutions first.
 Check the fluid level
• As a general rule, the fluid should be level with the
bottom of the filler plug. Check the shift linkage and carefully inspect it for loose
or worn
pivot bushings and make sure that the linkage is not bent or binding
6 Signs of a Bad Manual Transmission
 Transmission Shifts Hard
• Hard shifting means that the shift lever is difficult to move when changing gears. This
condition may occur whenever a shift is being made regardless of the gear selected or
only one gear may be hard to select. When diagnosing this condition, if the shifter is
difficult to move with the engine shut off the problem is probably in the shift linkage or
shift rails, etc. If the shifter moves easily with the engine shut off, but becomes hard with
the engine running, the problem is probably with the clutch or the transmission case may
be misaligned. The transmission must be removed to repair the clutch or to correct the
misalignment problem. A damaged pilot bearing can also cause these symptoms.
 Transmission Shifts Hard
If the transmission has external linkage, hard shifting may be corrected by
adjusting and
lubricating the shift linkage. If the transmission has internal linkage that is
binding or
sticking, the transmission has to be removed and disassembled in order to
correct the
problem. The transmission will also have to be removed and disassembled if the
synchronizer assemblies are causing the hard shifting.
 Gear Clash
• Gear clash is often referred to as grinding gears and is an abnormal grinding noise that
may be heard during gear changing. Worn synchronizer sleeves, inserts, hubs or blocking
rings can cause gear clash. Gear clash can also be the result of a dragging clutch. A
clutch that does not fully disengage is referred to as a dragging clutch and is the most
common cause of gear clash. Worn parts in one of the synchronizer units will cause gear
clash in one gear only, but if the transmission grinds in every gear the problem could be a
dragging clutch.
 Gear Clash

If the transmission has been filled with the wrong fluid the blocking rings might
not be
able to grab the polished surface on the output gears. The wrong fluid can also
cause gear clash in all gears.
 Noisy Transmission
The transmission can be blamed for many noises caused by the driveline. Be
sure to
eliminate the differential, drive shaft, u-joints and clutch as possible causes of
the noise.
If the noise occurs with the engine running, clutch engaged and the transmission
in
neutral or if the noise occurs in one gear only, you can safely assume that the
transmission is the cause
 Noisy Transmission
Low fluid levels are a very common cause of noise in all gears and in neutral. A
worn or
damaged input gear or cluster drive gear can also cause noise in all gears and in
neutral,
as can damaged input shaft bearings, output shaft pilot bearings or cluster shaft
bearings.
A damaged speedometer gear may make a noise that sounds like a defective
bearing, but
is usually heard only in high gear.
 Noisy Transmission
Damaged gear teeth produce a noise only under load. Therefore, damaged gear
teeth on
the output gear, cluster gear or both, may cause noise in one reduction gear. If
the noise is
only in reverse, however, the cause may also be a worn or damaged reverse idler
gear or
bushing.
 Noisy Transmission
Clunking noises may be the result of excessive gear backlash or end play. Worn or
missing thrust washers or thrust bearings, loose extension housing bolts or excessively
worn gears can also cause clunking. You may be able to diagnose these noises while
road
testing by accelerating, decelerating and accelerating again quickly. Be sure to eliminate
driveline components before removing the transmission because clunking noises are far
more common from the driveline than from the transmission
 Noisy Transmission

To correct most noises you will have to remove the transmission and
disassemble it to gain access to defective bearings and gears.

• NOTE - Use a stethoscope or electronic listening device to locate

transmission noises.
 Jumps Out of Gear
The most obvious cause of transmissions jumping out of gear is worn detent plugs or
springs. It is possible for the detent springs to break or for the notches in the shift rails
to
become worn to the point where the springs and plugs cannot hold the shift rails in
the selected gear.
Worn or improperly adjusted shift linkage or worn shift forks can prevent the
synchronizer sleeve from moving far enough to completely engage the teeth of the
output
gear. Because the transmission is not fully in gear, accelerating or decelerating may
cause
the transmission to jump out of gear.
 Jumps Out of Gear
Worn or damaged synchronizer sleeves or output gear clutch teeth can also
cause the
transmission to jump out of gear, as can worn thrust bearings or washers on the
output
gears. Check for loose bolts on the extension housing, clutch housing and engine
mounts.
A misaligned clutch housing or transmission case can also cause jumping out of
gear.
 Will Not Shift Into One Gear

If a transmission will shift into all gears except one, the linkage could be at fault.
A worn or bent shift fork or damaged or bent shift rails can also be the cause.
Linkage movement
may be hindered by some other part of the car. You may have to move the
obstruction to make sure the linkage has free movement.
If the synchronizer sleeves or hub splines are damaged they may prevent the
linkage from
moving the sleeve into mesh with the clutch teeth on the output gear.
 Locked In One Gear
A worn or broken shift rail or shift fork can cause the transmission to lock in one
gear.
Inspect the shift linkage as well to make sure that no broken or damaged pieces
are
binding the linkage.
 Locked In One Gear
Most transmission problems are repaired by removing and disassembling the
transmission. Certain problems can be repaired without removing the transmission, such
as speedometer gears, sensors and certain seals. Some transmissions have accessible side
covers that allow you to remove them to change a leaking gasket and maybe even a
defective shift fork. External linkage is vital to proper transmission operation, but is also
vulnerable to wear. Lubrication and adjustment as well as replacement of worn or
damaged parts can usually be made as an on-car service.
 NOTE
Before ordering any parts, make sure you have the correct transmission
code number. Some transmissions have identification tags attached to a
cover bolt and others are identified by the V.I.N. on the dash or door post.
 Thank You
Any Questions?