DYING,

PRINTING
&
FINISHING
 Introduction
• Two major processes used for coloration of textiles are:
1. Dyeing
2. Printing
• Dyes are colored organic compounds that are used to
impart color to various substrates, including paper, leather,
fur, hair, drugs, cosmetics, waxes, greases, plastics and
textile materials.
• A Dye is a colored compound, normally used in solution,
which is capable of being fixed to a fabric.
Dyes and Pigments
• There are two main types of colorants:
1. Pigments
2. Dyes.
• Dyes are either soluble in the dyeing medium (e. g.
water) or can dissolve into the textile substrate.
• Pigments are neither soluble in the dyeing medium
nor can dissolve into the substrate.
• Both pigments and dyes can be natural or synthetic.
• Colorants from natural sources such as plants have
been obtained since pre-historic times.
• The first synthetic dye was accidently discovered by
an English chemist named William Henry Perkin in
1856.
Pigments
• The pigment colorants usually have no affinity for any type of
fiber.
• Pigments also do not have any ability to form chemical bonds
with the fibers.
• Pigments are commonly applied with the help of chemical
binders which keep them adhered or bound with the textile
materials.
• With the help of binders, pigments can be used for dyeing or
printing of all type of fibers and their blends.
• Dyeing with pigments usually comprises padding the textile in
the pigment and binder dispersion (along with other suitable
auxiliaries), followed by drying and curing at a suitable
temperature.
• The pigment dyed fabrics are usually stiffer (because of use of
binders) and have poor rubbing fastness properties as
compared to the fabrics dyed with dyes.
Dyes Properties
• To be of use, dyes must possess the following four properties:
1. Color
2. Solubility in water
3. Ability to be absorbed and retained by fiber
(substantivity) or to be chemically combined with it
(reactivity).
4. Ability to withstand washing, dry cleaning and
exposure to light.
• The dye has a colour due to the presence of chromophore
and its fixed property to active groups such as OH,SO3H, NH2,
NR2, etc.
• The polar auxochrome makes the dye water-soluble and
binds the dye to the fabric by interaction with the oppositely
charged groups of fabric structure.
Differences between Dyes & Pigments
Solubility:
• Dyes are soluble in water and solvents, while pigments
are generally insoluble in water and most solvents.
• Pigments are suspended in a carrier or binder.
Particle size:
• Pigments particles are much larger in composition size.
Light Fastness:
• Dyes are generally less resistance to light as compared to
pigments.
Bonding:
• Pigments typically require a binder while dyes can
dissolve in aqueous solutions.
Stability:
• Pigments have the edge here with longevity. Last longer
than dyes.
Choice of Dye
• You can not assume that to dye any piece of fabric to a given
colour, all you need to do is use a dye of that particular
colour.
• No dye will dye all textile fabrics satisfactorily. This means,
simply, that you must choose a dye that will suit the material
(or a material that will suit the dye).
• Cost consideration
• Shade and fastness requirements
• Kind of material to be dye
Dye at different stages
• Fiber Dyeing is the method of dyeing fibers before blending
with other colors to give fancy yarns or fabrics.
• Yarn Dyeing is the method of dyeing yarns
• Forms of hanks
• Forms of packages
• Fabric Dyeing is the method after weaving, knitting, or non-
woven to make fabrics.
• Open width form using the fabrics to spread without any creases and
dye them.
• Rope form using the fabrics with the form like a rope (many creases and
look like “a rope”)
• Garment Dyeing
• This method is the last process of the dyeing of goods.
Dyeing
• Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials
by immersing the in an aqueous solution of dye
called dye liquor.
• Generally, the dye liquor consists of dye, water and
other such materials which increase the effect of
dyeing. Heat is usually applied to the liquor.
Dyeing
• Dyeing can be defined as a process during which a textile
substrate is brought in contact with the solution or dispersion of a
colorant, and the substrate takes up the said colorant with
reasonable resistance to its release form the substrate.
• Dyeing comprises the application of colorant to the entire body of
a textile substrate with a reasonable degree of fastness.
• Textile materials can be dyed in fiber, yarn, fabric or garment
form.
• Dyeing of fibers is known as ‘stock dyeing’.
• Addition of colorant to the polymer melt o solution prior to
their extrusion is called ‘dope dyeing’ or ‘solution dyeing’.
• Dyeing of yarns in the form of wound packages, skeins or
beams is known as ‘package dyeing’, ‘skein dyeing’ or ‘beam
dyeing’ respectively.
• Fabric dyeing is also known as ‘piece dyeing’
Dyeing Requirements
Different requirement that a dyer must meet
include:
• Matching the required shade on the dyed
material,
• Achieving level / uniform dyeing
• Obtaining required degree of color fastness (i.e.,
resistance to washing, rubbing, light,
perspiration, etc.),
• Avoiding any deterioration of textile properties
during dyeing (e. g. loss in strength, softness,
etc.),
• Keeping the dyeing cost as low as possible,
• Minimizing harmful impact on the environment.
 Basic Theory of Dyeing
• In dyeing, color is transferred to a textile material to make it
permanently colored.
• In the textile industry, generally, it is done by different machines
and consists of several steps.
• The basic dyeing theory: the interaction between dyes and the
textile material along with different dyeing auxiliaries consists of 3
general stages.
1. Dye migration from the solution to the surface of the fiber,
which can also be called as adsorption.
2. Dye diffusion to the interior of the fiber from the surface,
which can also be called as absorption.
3. Dye fixation by different types of bonds or entrapping inside
the fiber pores.
Dyeing Methods
• Dyeing methods can be classified into two main
types:
1. Exhaust dyeing
2. Pad dyeing
• After both the exhaust and pad dyeing methods, the
dyed fabric is usually subjected to a washing / rinsing
step to remove any unfixed dye from the fabric.
• Selection of a particular dyeing method depends on
several factors including the
• Form of textile material (fiber, yarn, knitted or woven
fabric),
• Availability of suitable equipment in the mill
• Batch size of the textile material.
Exhaustion Process
• This method is using lot of water as shown in “Liquor Ratio
(ratio between water and goods)” This should immerge the
goods into dye solution for a long time in order to let the dye
penetrate into the goods. This will lead to produce more
wastewater than the continuous process.
• Advantage: inexpensive, no need to train the worker to look
after and run them properly.
• Disadvantage: lots of water needed, very slow process (
min/batch.)
Pad Dyeing
Pad dyeing method:
• A continuous batch of fabric in open width, passes
through an impregnator (or padding trough) containing
dye liquor, followed by a passage between a pair of
squeeze rollers.
• The pressure of the squeeze rollers can be adjusted to
obtain a desired wet pick-up.
• For example, a wet pick-up of 100 % would result in
fabric twice its original dry weight, after the
impregnation and squeezing.
• The concentration of the dye in the padding tough and
the wet pick influence the final depth of color obtained
on the fabric.
Pad Dyeing or Continuous
• This method is designed by putting different machinery into
a sequence so that it can produce the dyed fabric in one
pass.
• Advantage: very fast process ( m/min), small amount of
water in the process.
• Disadvantage: very expensive, need to train the worker to
look after and run them properly.
Classification
• There are several ways for classification of dyes.
• Each class of dye has a unique chemistry, structure
and particular way of bonding.
• While some dyes can react chemically with the
substrates forming strong bonds in the process, others
can be held by physical forces.
• Some of the prominent ways of classification are:
1. Classification based on the source of materials.
2. Classification by methods of application.
3. Classification of the Dyes- Based on the nature
of their respective chromophores.
Classification based on the
source of materials

• A very common classification of the dyestuff is

based on the source from which it is made.
Accordingly the classification could be:
• Natural Dyes
• Synthetic Dyes
 Natural Dye
• Natural dyes are dyes or
colorants derived from plants,
invertebrates, or minerals.
• The majority of natural dyes are
vegetable dyes from plant
sources. E.g. roots, berries, bark,
leaves, and wood.
• Other organic sources include
fungi and lichens.
 Synthetic Dyes
• Almost all the colors that you see today are Synthetic dyes.
Synthetic dyes are used everywhere in everything from
clothes to paper, from food to wood. This is because they are
cheaper to produce, brighter, more color-fast, and easy to
apply to fabric.
• E.g. Acid Dyes, Azo Dyes, Basic Dyes, Mordant Dyes, etc

Azo dye testing

 Classification by methodsof
application
• Method used for application depends on the nature of
both….Dye and Fabric.

• They are classified on the basis of technique employed for

their application.
Main Dye Classes and their
Suitability for different Fibers
Dyeclasses’colourfastness
properties

Introduction to Coloration & Finishing

Colour Formulation

• Matching of colour shades by

the dyer requires the skilful
blending & formulation of
different dyes & pigments, as
well as an understanding of
the nature of fibres & the
numerous chemicals needed
to carry the dyeing process.
2004

• Colour match recipes are first developed on a small

laboratory basis.
• Once the dyer has formulated a colour match &
achieved a satisfactory sampling (often known as the
lab-dip), this becomes the standard which all future
dye lots or batches must follow.
 Color Formulation

• In actual production, however, each dye lot is

more or less different in shade from all other
lots.
• This lot-to-lot shade variation is caused by
several factors such as differences in dyes /
auxiliaries concentration, fabric lots & different
dyeing machine settings, etc.
Color Formulation
• A good dye must withstand the subsequent treatment (e.g.
laundering, dry cleaning, etc.) or environmental wearing
(e.g.rubbing,light exposure, etc.).
• The degree to which a dyed material can withstand such
treatments & wearing is called colour fastness.
• No dye or pigment is fast in all colour fastness.
• Only a careful selection & formulation of dyes &
auxiliaries can result in a desirable dyeing, & conform with
the colour fastness requirements.
Common color fastness testing:

• Laundering (washing),
• Light exposure,
• Dry cleaning,
• Perspiration
• Rubbing (crocking).
Printing
Printing is actually a type of dyeing. The main difference between printing

and dyeing is that in dyeing the fabric is given one color only by dipping in

the solution of dye, whereas in printing different colors are applied according

to the requirement of design.

PRINTING MACHINE

For printing usually four types of machines are used.

•FLAT BELT PRINTING MACHINE

•ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE

•Digital Printing Machine

 Finishing department
In finishing department final process is done. The fabric is brought to finishing

department after bleaching, dyeing or printing. Many qualities are produced in

fabric during finishing like

The Finishing process is divided into two major portion

• Mechanical Finishing

This is surface treatment of textile by means of special mechanical

processing machine. This process is used to developed the special fabric

characteristics e.g. Shearing, Gigging, Calendaring.

• Thermal Finishing

Thermal Finishing includes finishing process that requires warmth,

coating of chemical finishes and drying processes are belong to this group.
 STANTER MACHINE

STANTER MACHINE

It is very important machine which is used to finish and dry the fabric. Its

main purposes are:

• Adjustment of fabric width

• Coating(chemical finishes)

The main parts of Stanter machine are:

• Chemical bath

• Stretching frame

• Drying chamber

• Cooling chamber