Attaching Drawer

Slides & Handle

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XXXXXXEXTRAS

Installing drawer slides level and
at the right height can be a chal-
lenge. For the roll-around work
cart on page 8, I used a simple
technique to make the job easier.
ONLINE
as shown in the photo at right and
the lower left drawing. For the
bottom slides, I simply used a 1⁄4"
hardboard spacer, like you see in
the photo below.

All it takes is a scrap piece of MDF

or plywood and hardboard.
Starting at the top, cut a spacer
to match the height needed for
installing the top drawer slide.
With the spacer against the side
of the cart, set the slide in position
on top and then screw it in place.
Next, move the spacer to the other
side and repeat the process.
To install the remaining slides,
just trim the height of the spacer Bottom Slide. A piece of !/4" hard-
to match the position for each board positions the slide up off the
slide and repeat the process, bottom of the cabinet.

FIRST: USE TOP EDGE

TO POSITION TOP

Wing Cutter: Handle Mount Hole

SLIDE SCRAP
PIECE

a. I wanted to create a pocket in perfect fit. That’s where a wing-

the end of the corner posts of cutter came to the rescue.
the workcenter to trap the pipe for Just set the wing cutter to the
the handle. Unfortunately, none of size of the outside diameter of
my hole saws or drill bits were the the pipe and use your drill press to
SECOND: exact diameter needed to get a cut the 1⁄2"-deep circular groove.
TRIM AND
POSITION
NEXT SLIDE
a.

THIRD:
TRIM AND
REPEAT

SIZE TO
MATCH
CONDUIT

FOURTH: TO
LOCATE BOTTOM SLIDE,
SEE ABOVE LEFT PHOTO

PAGE 1 OF 1 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 XXXX XX
XXXXXXEXTRAS
ONLINE

Benchtop To complement the slant-front

tool cart on page 16, I built this
tool chest. You can install it on
of hardwood edging. The four
drawers provide handy storage
for tools and supplies. You can get

Tool Chest
the top of the tool cart by resting
it on the shelf pins installed in
the sides. Or you can use it as a
stand-alone tool chest right at
your workbench to keep all your
smaller hand tools close by.
The design of the upper tool
chest is similar to the cart. It’s basi-
cally a plywood box with strips
an idea of how the tool chest goes
together by checking out Figure 1.
MAKE THE SIDES. The first step is to
cut the sides of the case to size.
While you’re at it, cut a matching
center divider. Why? This ensures
that when you cut the dadoes
for the hardwood drawer guide,
they’ll be perfectly aligned.

1
FIGURE

a.

b.
c.

PAGE 1 OF 4 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Once you have the sides and
divider cut to size, you’re ready
to cut the dadoes. As you see in
Figure 1, all the dadoes are the
same size (1/4" x 1/4"), so once you
have a dado blade set up in your
table saw, this work goes quickly.
While you’re at it, cut a rabbet
along the back edge of each side
and a pair of notches in the bottom
of each side. The rabbet will accept
the back of the chest and the
notches “lock” the chest in place
when you set it on the shelf pins.
TOP & BOTTOM. Now you can turn
your attention to the top and
bottom of the chest. As Figure 1
shows, the top and bottom are
identical. Simply cut them to size
(they’re narrower than the sides)
and then cut a tongue on each end
to fit the dadoes in the case sides.
To complete the top and bottom,
cut a centered dado in each part to
match the thickness of the divider.
After dry assembling the top,
bottom, and sides, you can do the
final sizing of the center divider.
TRIM THE DIVIDER. The key is to trim
just enough off the divider so that
it fits between the top and bottom,
while keeping the dadoes for the
shelf guides aligned with each
other. For the final length, cut the
divider so it’s flush at the front and
sticks out a 1/2" at the back end.
ADD THE RUNNERS. Once you have
the divider complete, you can cut
Ripping Narrow Strips
When ripping the narrow strips
for the drawer runners on the
tool chest, I used a simple jig that
slid against the rip fence on the
table saw, as in the drawing.
The jig consists of a single part
— a plywood base with a notch
in it that matches the desired
width of the strip. Since the strips
are narrow, it’s best to replace the
standard insert plate with a zero
clearance version. This prevents
any strips from jamming in the
PAGE 2 OF 4
2
FIGURE
the drawer runners to size (they’re
the same length as the divider). To
do this safely, check out the box
below. Finally, glue the runners in
place flush with the back edge of
the sides and divider.
ASSEMBLE THE CHEST. At this point,
you’re ready to assemble the chest.
Be sure the top and bottom are 1/2"
back from the front edge of the
sides and that the divider is flush
with the top and bottom at the
front of the case.
ADD THE HARDWOOD EDGING. You’re on
the home stretch at this point. The
next thing to do is add some hard-
a.
wood edging to the front and top
edges of the sides. You can see this The upper back rail has a notch
in Figure 1 on the previous page. cut into it to fit around the divider,
With that complete, you can and it’s rabbeted to accept the back
attach the hardwood rails and stile of the chest. The lower back rail
that cover the plywood edges of is thinner, so it only has a center
the top, bottom, and divider, fit- notch. Once all the rails are glued
ting them as shown in Figure 2. in place, you can attach the back.
opening. A hardboard splitter
glued into place just behind the
blade helps prevent kickback.
Using the Jig. To set up the
jig, start by positioning the rip
fence so the outside edge of the
notch aligns with the inside of
the saw blade, as in the detail.
After fitting the workpiece in
the notch, push the jig past the
saw blade to rip the first runner.
Repeat the process until you
have all the runners you need.
SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 a.
3
FIGURE

b. c.

A Matched Set of Drawers

After completing the tool chest
case, all that’s left to do is add a set
of four drawers and hardware, as
you see in the drawing above.
SIZING THE DRAWERS. There are a
couple things to keep in mind as
you size the drawers. First, since
the drawers don’t ride on full-
extension slides, you don’t have
to account for any slide clearance
when sizing the drawer fronts and
backs. But you do need to allow
a little clearance so the drawers
won’t bind as you slide them in
and out. A total of 1⁄8" clearance
side to side, as well as above,
below, and between each drawer,
should keep the drawers sliding
smoothly in the tool chest. And to
ensure the drawers stop against the
false fronts that are added later, the
drawer sides are 1⁄2" shorter (121⁄4")
than the length of the runners.
After cutting all the parts to
size, the next step is to cut the
joinery for the drawers. Here
again, I used a tongue and dado to
join the front and back to the sides.
And a groove in the bottom of all
the parts accepts the hardboard
drawer bottom (Figures 3, 3a, and
3b). There’s one more thing you’ll
need to do to complete the drawer
sides. And that’s to cut a groove
on the outside face of each drawer
side to support the drawer on the
runners inside the tool chest.
These grooves are centered
on the side of each drawer. And
they’re cut just a hair wider than
the thickness of the drawer run-
ners. This way, with a little coating

Drawer Fronts
Making the drawers for the tool
chest is the perfect opportu-
nity to try your hand at grain-
matching a set of false fronts.
Take a look at the drawing at
right to see how this works.
It’s a small detail that sets
apart any project. And all it takes
is a workpiece wide and long
enough to cut all the false fronts
from while allowing for a bit of
waste and final trimming.

PAGE 3 OF 4 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 of wax, you can be sure the drawers
will slide in and out smoothly.
Finishing Touch: Tool Mats
With the joinery complete, cut
the 1/4" hardboard drawer bottoms
to size and assemble each drawer.
MAKE THE FALSE FRONTS. Like the draw-
ers in the lower tool cart, those in the
tool chest have false fronts to hide
the exposed runners. Plus, the false
fronts act as stops for the drawers as
they contact the runners.
Although you can make the false
fronts individually, I took some
time to match the grain, as shown
in the box on the previous page.
No matter how you make the
false fronts, you’ll need to allow for
consistent gaps. Instead of the 1⁄8"
gap on the drawers in the tool cart,
I tightened it up to 1/16".
The false fronts are screwed in
place from inside the drawer and
the pulls are screwed in place from
the front. To make it easy to lift the
tool chest off the cart and carry it
around, I added a matching pull to
each side (Figures 3 and 3a).
PROTECTING YOUR STUFF. Finally, I
added protective tool mats inside
and outside (box at right).
After applying a finish and
letting it dry, roll your tool cart
around the shop, collect all your
hand tools and supplies, and get
them organized once and for all.
Like most flat surfaces in my shop, the top Thick mats made from
of the tool chest and tool cart are sure to recycled tires protect
become resting spots for all kinds of things. your tools and
tool chest from
To protect the top of the tool chest (and tool bumps and
cart), I added some protective tool mats, like dings
you see in the margin and photo below.
The mats are available at most home cen-
ters and hardware stores — in a number of
different types and styles. Besides different
textures, some of the tool mats are designed
to be non-slip, which keeps tools and other
items stored in the drawers from sliding
around. I used non-slip mats in the drawers
and the “beefier” diamond pattern for the Thin, non-
tops of both the tool chest and tool cart. slip, cushioned
The mats come rolled up or in a flat mats protect
tools and keep
package like a set of placemats. With either them from
type, you’ll probably have to use a utility moving
knife to cut them to size to suit your needs. around
Non-slip, pre-sized
mats come as a set
to fit metal tool cart
drawers, but can be
sized as required for
other uses

Materials & Hardware

Tool Cart Case R Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 63/ - 17 K Back (1) 63/4 x 243/4 - 1/4 Hdbd.
2 4
A Sides (2) 181/2 x 35 - 3/4 Ply. S False Front (1) 3/ x 3 - 253/
4 4
3/ x 3/ - 10 Lnr. Ft. 3/ x 4 - 253/ Tool Chest Drawers
B Edging 4 4 T False Front (1) 4 4
L Drawer Fronts/Backs (8) 1/2 x 21/4 - 111/8
C Top/Bottom (2) 18 x 261/2 - 3/4 Ply. U False Front (1) 3/ x 5 - 253/
4 4 1/ x 21/ - 121/
3/ x 21/ - 26 3/ x 6 - 253/ M Drawer Sides (8) 2 4 2
D Rails (3) 4 4 V False Front (1) 4 4
N Drawer Bottoms (4) 11 /8 x 12 - 1/4 Hdbd.
1
E Back (1) 26 x 281/4 - 3/4 Ply. W False Front (1) 3/ x 7 - 253/
4 4 3/ x 211/ - 115/
3/ x 11/ - 171/ O False Fronts (4) 4 32 8
F Support Blocks (2) 4 4 2 X Optional Shelf (1) 13 x 257/8 - 3/4 Ply.
G Caster Blocks (2) 11/2 x 31/2 - 171/2 Y Optional Shelf Edging 3/ x 3/ - 257/
4 4 8
• (24) #8 x1 1/4" Fh Woodscrews
Tool Cart Drawers & Shelf Tool Chest Case • (24) #8 Finish Washers
H Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 23/4 - 241/2 A Sides (2) 131/2 x 63/4 - 3/4 Ply. • (4) 5" Locking Swivel Casters
I Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 23/ - 17 B Divider (1) 123/4 x 53/8 - 3/4 Ply. • (16) #14 x 3/4" Ph Sheet Metal Screws
2 4
J Drawer Btms. (5) 161/2 x 241/2 - 1/4 Hdbd. C Top/Bottom (2) 121/4 x 243/4 - 3/4 Ply. • (5 Pr.) 16" Full-Extension Metal Drawer
K Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/ x 33/ - 241/ D Drawer Runners (8) 1/ x 1/ - 123/ Slides w/screws
2 4 2 2 4 4
L Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 33/ - 17 E Edging 1/ x 3/ - 4 Lnr. Ft. • (38) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
2 4 2 4
M Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 43/4 - 241/2 F Upper Front Rail (1) 3/ x 1 - 241/
4 4 • (16) 4" Sash Pulls w/screws
N Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 43/ - 17 G Lower Front Rail (1) 3/ x 13/ - 241/ • (4) 1/4" Shelf Pins
2 4 4 8 4
ODrawer Front/Back (2) 1/ x 53/ - 241/ H Center Stile (1) 3/ x 3/ - 47/ • Tool Mats (Optional)
2 4 2 4 4 8
P Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 53/ - 17 I Upper Back Rail (1) 3/ x 1 - 241/
2 4 4 4
QDrawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 63/4 - 241/2 J Lower Back Rail (1) 1
/2 x 13/8 - 241/4

PAGE 4 OF 4 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 Cutoff Storage Bins
Cutting Diagram
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48" x 96" - #/4" MDF 48" x 96" - #/4" MDF 48" x 96" - #/4" MDF
XXXXXXEXTRAS

M
L

I B F K
ONLINE

E E

I B F

H A

I B F

H A

48" x 96" - !/4" HARDBOARD 48" x 96" - !/4" HARDBOARD

G G
D

G G

J C
D

J C

J C
D

J C

PAGE 1 OF 1 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 Roll-Around Work Cart
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagrams
XXXX XX

CASE DRAWERS
A Case Top/Bottom (4) 191/2 x 431/2 - 3/4 Ply. X Drawer 1 Front/Back (2) 33/4 x 211/2 - 1/2 Ply.
XXXXXXEXTRAS

B Case Sides/Divider (3) 191/2 x 243/4 - 3/4 Ply. Y Drawer 1 Sides (2) 33/4 x 18 - 1/2 Ply.
C Wide Back (1) 24 x 24 - 3/4 Ply. Z Drawer 2 Front/Back (2) 33/4 x 111/4 - 1/2 Ply.
D Narrow Back (1) 24 x 133/4 - 3/4 Ply. AA Drawer 2 Sides (2) 33/4 x 14 - 1/2 Ply.
E End Edging (4) 11/2 x 11/4 - 191⁄2 BB Drawer 3 Front/Back (2) 5 x 211/2 - 1/2 Ply.
F Corner Posts (4) 11/2 x 41/2 - 27 CC Drawer 3 Sides (2) 5 x 18 - 1/2 Ply.
G Side Edging (4) 11/2 x 11/4 - 37 DD Drawer 4 Front/Back (2) 5 x 111/4 - 1/2 Ply.
H Vertical Edging (1) 11/2 x 11/4 - 24 EE Drawer 4 Sides (2) 5 x 14 - 1/2 Ply.
ONLINE

SHELVES FF Drawer 5 Front/Back (2) 61/4 x 211/2 - 1/2 Ply.

I End Shelf (2) 1/ x 31/ - 19 GG Drawer 5 Sides (2) 61/4 x 18 - 1/2 Ply.
2 4
J End Shelf Sides (4) 1/ x 21⁄ - 31/ HH Drawer 6 Front/Back (2) 61/4 x 111/4 - 1/2 Ply.
2 2 4
K Upper End Shelf Face (2) 1/ x 3 - 19 II Drawer 6 Sides (2) 61/4 x 14 - 1/2 Ply.
2
L Lower End Shelf Sides (4) 1/ x 3 - 31/ JJ Drawer 7 Front/Back (2) 73⁄8 x 111/4 - 1/2 Ply.
2 4
M Lower End Shelf Face (2) 1/ x 3 - 19 KK Drawer 7 Sides (2) 73⁄8 x 18 - 1/2 Ply.
2
N Back Shelf (1) 1/ x 51/ - 13 LL Drawer 8 Front/Back (2) 73⁄8 x 111/4 - 1/2 Ply.
2 4
O Upper Back Shelf Sides (2) 1/ x 51/ - 21⁄ MMDrawer 8 Sides (2) 73⁄8 x 14 - 1/2 Ply.
2 4 2
P Upper Back Shelf Face (1) 1/ x 3 - 13 NN Lrg. Drawer Bottoms (4) 171/2 x 213/4 - 1/4 Ply.
2
Q Lower Back Shelf Sides (2) 1/ x 51/ - 3 OO Sm. Drawer Bottoms (4) 131/2 x 111⁄2 - 1/4 Ply.
2 4
R Lower Back Shelf Face (1) 1/ x 3 - 13 PP Drawer 1 False Front (1) 23/4 x 237⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
2
S Cord Cleats (4) 1x2-6 QQ Drawer 2 False Front (1) 23/4 x 133⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
RR Drawer 3 False Front (1) 4 x 237⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
TOP SS Drawer 4 False Front (1) 4 x 133⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
T Top Support (2) 221/2 x 481/2 - 3/4 MDF TT Drawer 5 False Front (1) 51/4 x 237⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
U Top (1) 221/2 x 481/2 - 1/4 Hdbd. UU Drawer 6 False Front (1) 51/4 x 133⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
V Top Side Edging (2) 3/ x 13/ - 50
4 4 VV Drawer 7 False Front (1) 63⁄8 x 237⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.
W Top End Edging (2) 3/ x 13/ - 24
4 4 WW Drawer 8 False Front (1) 63⁄8 x 133⁄16 - 3/4 Ply.

1!/2 x 5!/2 - 96 HARDWOOD

1!/2 x 5!/2 - 96 HARDWOOD

1!/2 x 5!/2 - 48 HARDWOOD

!/2 x 5!/2 - 96 HARDWOOD

!/2 x 5!/2 - 96 HARDWOOD

#/4 x 5!/2 - 96 HARDWOOD

PAGE 1 OF 3 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 48" x 96" - #/4" PLYWOOD

48" x 96" - #/4" PLYWOOD

49" x 97" - #/4" MDF

PAGE 2 OF 3 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 48" x 96" - !/4" HARDBOARD

48" x 96" - !/4" PLYWOOD

48" x 96" - !/2" PLYWOOD

PAGE 3 OF 3 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 XXXX XX
XXXXXXEXTRAS
ONLINE

Router Table Fence Accessories

A great fence makes routing easy. But for even more
versatility, you might want to consider adding one or
more of the accessories shown here.
A bit guard, a stop block, and an adjustable feather-
board will make using your router table safer and the
results more accurate. You can also use your router
(and table) for jointing the edges of a workpiece.
To do this, all you need to do is make an auxiliary
jointing face, like you see on page 3. Perfectly straight
edges are just a couple of passes away.

1 Bit Guard
For safety, it’s important to use
a bit guard during any routing
operation. The one shown in
the photo above is designed to
attach to the T-track installed in
the faces of the router table fence.
As you can see in the drawing at
right, the guard is made of two
pieces — a 1⁄2"-thick hardwood
back and a plastic shield.
BACK. To make the guard, start
by cutting the back to size. Then,
to allow you to adjust the height
of the guard to suit the thickness
of the workpiece, you’ll need to
cut two 3⁄8"-wide slots near each
end of the back.
SHIELD. The shield is cut from a
piece of 1⁄4"-thick Lexan. (Lexan
is a better choice than Plexiglas
because it’s shatter-resistant.)
After screwing the shield to the
back with woodscrews, as shown
in the illustration, the bit guard is
attached to the fence using flange
bolts, washers, and knobs.

PAGE 1 OF 3 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
2 Stop Block
a.

Ply.)

Another handy accessory is a stop block.
It allows you to accurately repeat the
starting and stopping points of a cut.
In the drawing, you can see that the
stop block starts out as a square of 1⁄2"
plywood. To prevent it from pivoting as
it’s locked in place, I added a hardwood
key. The key is sized to fit the opening
in the T-track (detail ‘a’). So you’ll need
to cut a groove in the back of the stop
block to position the block flush with the
bottom of the sliding face (detail ‘a’).
Once the key is glued in place, drill a
hole through the face of the block and the
key. The hole accepts a flange bolt so you
can slide the stop block anywhere along
the fence and then lock it firmly in place
with a washer and knob.

3 Adjustable Featherboard
1

a.

A featherboard is an important
accessory for holding a workpiece
firmly against the router table.
Plus, it helps prevent a workpiece
from kicking back.
The featherboard starts out
as a piece of 1⁄2"-thick hardwood
that’s cut to the width shown in
the upper right drawing. Then the
ends are crosscut at a 30° angle.
KERFING JIG. The key to cutting the
equally spaced fingers is to use an
indexing jig (Figure 2). The jig has
two saw kerfs that are spaced 1⁄8"
apart. One kerf has a hardwood
index pin glued in it. And the other
2
FIGURE
kerf lines up with the saw blade.
Note: Tilt saw blade to 30°.
Ply.)
To cut the first kerf, clamp the
workpiece to the backing board so
it’s tight against the pin. Then make
the first pass. After the first kerf is
cut, unclamp the workpiece and
position it over the index pin. Then
reclamp the workpiece and make
another pass. Repeat this process to
complete all the fingers (Figure 1).
Once you’ve completed cutting
all the kerfs, all that’s left to do is
cut a pair of slots for mounting the
featherboard to the fence, as shown
in the upper right drawing.

PAGE 2 OF 3 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
4 Auxiliary Jointing Face
Routers aren’t typically associated
with jointing the edge of a work-
piece. But with an auxiliary jointing
face and a 1⁄2" straight bit, you can
turn your router table (and fence)
into a precision edge jointer.
PAGE 3 OF 3
The problem is the router table
fence is one solid, straight face.
The way a jointer works, the infeed
and outfeed tables aren’t aligned PAGE 97
IN SETTING
— they’re offset from each other. UP SHOP)
So how do you go about cre-
ating an “offset” on a straight
fence? Simple. Glue a second
layer of laminate to the “outfeed”
face, like you see in the drawing
at right. (I made a second face
without a T-track and then added
the laminate.) Adding the second
layer of laminate creates an offset
of about 1⁄32" — perfect for jointing a.
small workpieces.
Jointing the edge of a workpiece
is just a matter of positioning the
router table fence so the jointing
face is aligned with the cutting
edge of the bit, as in detail ‘a.’
SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 Slant-Front Tool Cart
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagrams
XXXX XX
XXXXXXEXTRAS
ONLINE

PAGE 1 OF 2 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 Tool Cart Case V False Front (1) 3/ x 6 - 253/
4 4
W False Front (1) 3/ x 7 - 253/
A Sides (2) 181/2 x 35 - 3/4 Ply. 4 4
B Edging 3/ x 3/ - 10 Lnr. Ft.
4 4 X Optional Shelf (1) 13 x 257/8 - 3/4 Ply.
Y Optional Shelf Edging 3/ x 3/ - 257/
C Top/Bottom (2) 18 x 261/2 - 3/4 Ply. 4 4 8
D Rails (3) 3/ x 21/ - 26
4 4 Tool Chest Case
E Back (1) 26 x 281/4 - 3/4 Ply.
3/ x 11/ - 171/ A Sides (2) 131/2 x 63/4 - 3/4 Ply.
F Support Blocks (2) 4 4 2
B Divider (1) 123/4 x 53/8 - 3/4 Ply.
G Caster Blocks (2) 11/2 x 31/2 - 171/2
C Top/Bottom (2) 121/4 x 243/4 - 3/4 Ply.
Tool Cart Drawers & Shelf D Drawer Runners (8) 1/ x 1/ - 123/
2 4 4
E Edging 1/ x 3/ - 4 Lnr. Ft.
H Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 23/4 - 241/2 2 4
1/ x 23/ - 17 F Upper Front Rail (1) 3/ x 1 - 241/
I Drawer Sides (2) 2 4 4 4
G Lower Front Rail (1) 3/ x 13/ - 241/
J Drawer Btms. (5) 161/2 x 241/2 - 1/4 Hdbd. 4 8 4
1/ x 33/ - 241/ H Center Stile (1) 3/ x 3/ - 47/
K Drawer Front/Back (2) 2 4 2 4 4 8
1/ x 33/ - 17 I Upper Back Rail (1) 3/ x 1 - 241/
L Drawer Sides (2) 2 4 4 4
J Lower Back Rail (1) 1/ x 13/ - 241/
M Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 43/4 - 241/2 2 8 4
N Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 43/ - 17
2 4 K Back (1) 63/4 x 243/4 - 1/4 Hdbd.
O Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 53/4 - 241/2 Tool Chest Drawers
P Drawer Sides (2) 1/ x 53/ - 17
2 4
L Drawer Fronts/Backs (8) 1/2 x 21/4 - 111/8
Q Drawer Front/Back (2) 1/2 x 63/4 - 241/2 1/ x 21/ - 121/
1/ x 63/ - 17 M Drawer Sides (8) 2 4 2
R Drawer Sides (2) 2 4
3/ x 3 - 253/ N Drawer Bottoms (4) 111/8 x 12 - 1/4 Hdbd.
S False Front (1) 4 4 3/ x 211/ - 115/
3/ x 4 - 253/ O False Fronts (4) 4 32 8
T False Front (1) 4 4
U False Front (1) 3/ x 5 - 253/
4 4

PAGE 2 OF 2 SETTING UP SHOP ©2009 AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.