REVIEW ARTICLE
y Milica Lukic, Ivana Pantelic and Snezana Savic
An Overview of Novel Surfactants
for Formulation of Cosmetics with Certain
Emphasis on Acidic Active Substances
Novel surfactants which are nowadays available for incorpora-
tion into various formulations of personal care and cosmetic
products are numerous, implying a permanent need for their
classification. This overview provides essential information relat-
ing to synthesis, basic physicochemical characteristics, applica-
tion and other relevant data on surfactants currently used in cos-
metic products. In the second part of the paper an outline of
acidic active substances with significant application in cosmetic
products is given, as well as the problems that arise during pre-
paration/manufacture of the containing formulations, accompa-
nied with the review of scientific publications and other avail-
able reliable data dealing with the incorporation of these actives
in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with novel (mainly natur-
al) surfactants.
Key words: green chemistry, biosurfactants, alkyl polygluco-
sides, alpha-hydroxy acids
Eine Übersicht über neuartige Tenside in kosmetischen
Formulierungen mit Schwerpunkt auf säureaktive Sub-
stanzen. Neuartige Tenside, die heutzutage verschiedenen For-
mulierungen von Körperpflegemitteln und Kosmetikprodukten
beigemischt werden können, sind zahlreich, was einen ständigen
Bedarf an ihre Klassifikation einschließt. Dieser Übersichtsbeitrag
liefert grundlegende Informationen in Bezug auf Synthese, physi-
ko-chemische Basischarakteristika, Anwendung und andere rele-
vante Daten dieser Tenside, die gegenwärtig in kosmetischen
Produkten eingesetzt werden. Im zweiten Teil des Beitrags wird
ein Aufriss über säureaktive Substanzen, die in kosmetischen
Produkten maßgeblich verwendet werden, gegeben, sowie über
die Probleme, die während der Präparation/Produktion der sie
enthaltenen Formulierungen entstehen. Dies wird mit einem Re-
view wissenschaftlicher Publikationen und weiterer zuverlässiger
Daten, die die Einarbeitung solcher Aktivsubstanzen in die mit
den neuartigen (hauptsächlich natürlichen) Tensiden stabilisier-
ten kosmetischen Formulierungen behandeln, belegt.
Stichwörter: Grüne Chemie, Biotenside, Alkylpolyglucoside, Al-
phahydroxysäuren
1 Introduction
Original published papers which investigate surface proper-
ties (solubility, emulsification, wetting, foaming and disper-
sion) of different surfactant groups derived from nature,
their synthesis and structure/properties relation, as well as
review papers which summarize up-to-date publications are
numerous [1 – 14]. On the other hand, there is only a hand-
ful of original research articles investigating surfactants real-
time usage: focusing on their compatibility with different ac-
tives and other ingredients in the formulation, surfactants’
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1 ª Carl Hanser Publisher, Munich
impact on the resulting colloidal structure and physico-
chemical properties of the product, and its contribution or
influence to the product’s overall efficacy.
This paper will encompass fundamental information re-
lating to synthesis, basic characteristics, application and
other relevant data on surfactant use in cosmetic products.
In order to obtain more detailed information on certain sur-
factants, readers will be referred to a variety of references cit-
ed throughout the paper.
Although the very title of the paper mentions novel sur-
factants, the actual focus will be on the natural surfactants.
In order to clarify this discrepancy, the first part of the paper
will be dedicated to defining the green chemistry program,
i. e. green or natural surfactants, followed by an overview of
the available surfactants, along with their classification and
application, and the review of the most interesting groups
of natural surfactants. The second part of the paper provides
an outline of acidic active substances with significant appli-
cation in cosmetic products, as well as the problems that
arise during preparation/manufacture of the containing for-
mulations, accompanied with the results that stemmed
from research encompassing both natural surfactants and
these challenging actives.
2 Green chemistry
Current development of the majority of novel substances/
chemicals, irrespective of their intended use, is based on
the Green Chemistry Program, established at the beginning
of 1990s [15]. Since then, the development of many green
chemistry approaches and environment-friendly chemical
syntheses have been driven by this program.
Green chemistry is defined as the design of chemical pro-
ducts and processes that reduce or eliminate the use or gen-
eration of hazardous substances, whereas a hazard is any-
thing that could have a negative effect on human health
and the environment [15]. Hence, a permanent priority for
both chemical industry and academic community became
the development of greener or more environmentally benign
processes and materials [16]. Similar to other fields, industry
needs are brought to the focus of academic work, which is
achieved through continual communication and collabora-
tion between industry and academia [17]. In this manner, re-
search areas are tailored according to the actual needs.
Personal care industry uses hundreds of chemicals in the
formulation of consumer products. Among these ingredi-
ents, surfactants perform a wide range of functions, thus
being spent in enormous quantities every day worldwide.
Consequently, their development and production is recog-
nized as an important research area and due to the vast con-
sumption and the resulting wide distribution in the environ-
ment, the green chemistry concept is especially outlined for
this group of chemicals.
7
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
Green surfactants present an important challenge for re-
searchers. The ideal green surfactant should have the least
possible impact on the environment and, therefore, as their
first prerequisite, they should be produced from a sustain-
able source [16]. Most of the used surfactants are chemically
synthesized, petroleum-derived substances. As such, they
are non-biodegradable (remain toxic to the environment),
they can bioaccumulate and their production processes and
by-products can be hazardous to the environment [10].
Therefore, biodegradability and biocompatibility are addi-
tional characteristics of surfactants important for \green
surfactant" classification.
It is not unusual that instead of \green" the term \natur-
al" is used, since a natural surfactant is obtained from a nat-
ural, renewable source which may be a plant, a microorgan-
ism, an invertebrate or an animal [18]. Further, a natural
product should be obtained by some kind of separation pro-
cedure, without any organic synthesis, leading to the fact
that there are not many surfactants that fulfil such strict re-
quirements. Therefore, the term natural is usually used in
its broadest sense, while maintaining the basic prerequisite
for a surfactant to be obtained from a natural source [19].
Consequently, the majority of novel surfactants is classi-
fied as natural.
3 Surfactants
Surfactants, or surface-active agents, or tensides are an am-
phiphilic group of molecules, having both a hydrophilic and
a hydrophobic (or lipophilic) part. This unique class of
chemicals has an ability to modify the properties of a surface
and an interface. They can perform diverse functions includ-
ing: cleaning, wetting, emulsification, solubilization, disper-
sion, foaming and sometimes even penetration enhance-
ment and antimicrobial activity. Due to such an outstanding
functional diversity, surfactants may be applied in produc-
tion and processing of foods, agrochemicals, pharmaceuti-
cals, personal care and laundry products, petroleum, miner-
al oils, lubricants, paints and many other [20]. The nature of
the hydrophilic moiety is commonly used to classify surfac-
tants in four basic categories: anionic, cationic, amphoteric
and non-ionic.
In cosmetic products surfactants may serve as detergents
(cleansing agents), emulsifiers, wetting or foaming agents,
opacifiers, thickening agents, foam depressors, hair condi-
tioners and antistatic agents. Hence, the selection of a sur-
factant for a specific cosmetic product is a delicate task
which depends on numerous factors, starting from the in-
tended purpose of the product [21].
For better clarity, surfactant classification, their basic char-
acteristics and main applications are presented in the follow-
ing section.
3.1 Anionic Surfactants
These molecules contain a polar head group which carries a
negative charge in slightly acidic, neutral or alkaline aque-
ous solutions. The most important functional groups are
carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate. For every sub-
group, typical representatives and their general characteris-
tics and application areas are given in Table 1 [20 – 22].
3.2 Cationic Surfactants
Due to the positive charge they carry, cationic surfactants are
substantive to the keratin of hair which has determined
their application in cosmetic industry as hair conditioners
8 Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
and antistatic agents. On the other hand, some of the cation-
ic surfactants are used as bactericidal agents or emulsifiers.
This group comprises alkylamines, alkylimidazolines, qua-
ternary ammonium compounds, ethoxylated alkylamines
and esterified quaternaries.
3.3 Amphoteric Surfactants
Depending on the pH of the solution, amphoteric surfac-
tants show either a positive or a negative charge, while
showing a zwitterionic form at an isoelectric point (inter-
mediate pH). Their surfactant properties are therefore
highly influenced by pH. For example, in acidic conditions
the cationic form prevails, providing surfactant substantivity.
They are generally used as foam stabilizers and thickening
agents, but in the presence of acidic substances they tend
to lose those properties. Two groups of these surfactants that
may find use in cosmetics are alkylamido alkyl amines and
alkyl substituted amino acids [22].
3.4 Non-ionic surfactants
The largest group of surfactants consists of non-ionics,
which do not dissociate in an aqueous solution. Their major
characteristic is good skin and eye compatibility, and de-
pending on the type they are weak to moderate foaming
agents. Non-ionic surfactants may serve as cleansing agents
(mainly in the combination with anionic surfactants), but
are generally used as emulsifiers, dominantly in cosmetic
products intended for sensitive skin, baby skin, as well as
for everyday skin care [21]. In Table 2, subgroups within the
group of non-ionic surfactants are presented with their
usual application and function [20 – 22].
3.5 Non-carbon speciality surfactants
Specifically, these surfactants are alkoxylated polysiloxanes
and fluorosiloxans. The former group has a variety of differ-
ent applications in painting, foam control, phytosanitary
products, while in cosmetics they are found as emulsifiers
in personal care and hair products. The latter group does
not have a significant application in the field of cosmetics.
4 Natural Surfactants
By a very strict definition a natural surfactant should be a
material from a natural source (plant or animal organ), ob-
tained by some kind of separation process (extraction, preci-
pitation or distillation), without any organic synthesis or
after-treatment. Although amphiphilic molecules are not
rare in plant and animal kingdom, there is a lack of truly
natural surfactants in the market. The small amount of
these products in the mentioned sources, together with the
time consuming and sometimes expensive separation/isola-
tion procedure put real natural surfactants in an unfavour-
able financial situation [12].
Contemporary natural surfactants, as mentioned pre-
viously, in a much broader definition are surface-active sub-
stances derived from natural raw materials. Moreover, only
one part of a natural surfactant, either hydrophobic or hy-
drophilic, may be from a renewable resource [8]. Therefore,
natural surfactants can be classified in three categories: am-
phiphiles with a natural polar head group, amphiphiles with
a natural hydrophobic tail and amphiphiles of microbial ori-
gin (produced by yeast or bacteria). The last are also named
biological surfactants or biosurfactants [8, 23]. In this section
only groups of natural surfactants with a natural polar head
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis

group and amphiphiles of microbial origin which are inter-
esting for application in cosmetic products will be covered.
4.1 Biosurfactants
Biological surfactants or biosurfactants are specially classi-
fied among natural surfactants, due to their microbial ori-
gin. Although they possess some crucial benefits compared
to the chemically synthesized surfactants (such as lower
toxicity, higher biodegradability, greater environmental com-
patibility, lower critical micelle concentration (CMC), steady
activity at pH or temperature extremes, diverse biological ac-
tivities like antimicrobial, antiviral and haemolytic activity
[18, 24]), biosurfactants are used only after thorough consid-
eration, as a result of high production costs and their lim-
ited structural variety [25, 26]. Biological surfactants can be
classified according to different criteria: their molecular
weight, ionic charge and secretion type. Nevertheless, the
main principle for classification remains their chemical
structure which allows them to be divided into the following
classes: glycolipids, lipopeptides, particular surfactants, fatty
acids, phospholipids, neutral lipids and polymeric surfac-
tants.
4.1.1 Glycolipids
Glycolipids are the most promising and the most widely used
group of biosurfactants [10]. This is not only because of their

Group Subgroup Structure/Example Characteristics and Application

Carboxylates Carboxylated salts/ CH3(CH2)n COO–M+ Cleansing agents used as soap bars for fabric hand wash,
Soaps M = Na, K, NH4 skin cleansers (soap bars or liquids), shaving products,
deodorant sticks, w/o emulsifiers
Ester carboxylates Good foaming properties and substantivity on the hair
used in shampoos

Sodium dilaureth-7 citrate

Ether carboxylates RO(CH2CH2O)nCH2COONa Emulsion stabilizers, good wetting and foam stability,
Alkyl polyglycol ether carboxylate, stable in the presence of alkali or acid
sodium salt
Sulfates Alkyl sulfates RCH2SO4–Na+ Properties depend on the chain length and the degree of
Sodium alkyl sulfate branching of the hydrocarbon chain, good foaming prop-
erties. Categorized as potential irritants but most useful
cleansing agents for cosmetics, shampoos, skin cleansers
Alkyl ether sulfates RCH2O(CH2CH2O)nSO3–Na Viscosity of surfactant solution is very sensitive to electro-
Sodium alkyl ether sulfate lytes; cleansing and foaming agents used in liquid soaps,
shower gels, foam baths, shampoos
Amide ether sulfates [RCONH(CH2CH2O)3SO3]2Mg Magnesium salts show excellent skin compatibility, good
Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate foaming agents; mild personal care cleaners
Alkyl glyceride sulfates RCOOCH2CH(OH)CH2OSO4Na Good foaming properties, foaming booster
Sodium alkyl monoglyceride sulfate
Sulfonates Alky sulfonates CH3(CH2)nCH2SO3Na Very water soluble, showing good foaming, wetting and
Primary sodium alkyl sulfonate emulsifying properties; household products (detergents);
acidic skin and hair cleansing compositions
Alkyl-aryl sulfonates Detergent for household products, fabric care, institutional
and industrial products. Low compatibility with skin, used
as hydrotropes and in some anti-seborrheic preparations

Sodium linear alkylbenzene sulfonate

Sulfosuccinates RCOOCH2CH(COOR)SO3Na The monoesters and their derivatives are used in personal
Sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinate care products, especially in shampoos, often in combina-
tion with anionic surfactants
Fatty acid isethionates RCOOCH2CH2SO3Na Good wetting, foaming, and emulsifying properties. Excel-
and taurides Fatty acid isethionate lent compatibility with the skin. Shampoos, bubble baths
and cleaning products
Phosphates Alkyl phosphates ROPO3H2 High electrolyte and low pH tolerance, used in acidic
Esters Alkyl ether phosphates Alkyl phosphoric ester household and industrial cleaning products
Acyl-Amino Acyl glutamates RCONHCH(COONa)CH2CH2COONa Mild for skin and eyes; poor foamers. Shampoos, mildly
Acids and Sodium acyl glutamate acidic skin cleansers
Salts
Acyl peptides RCO(NHC(X)HCO)nNHC(X)HCOONa Mild surfactants, substantivity for hair shampoos, mildly
Sodium acyl polypeptide (X = amino acid) acidic skin cleansers
Acyl sarcosides RCON(CH3)CH2COONa Mild to skin. Shampoos
Sodium acyl sarcoside

Table 1 Anionic surfactants [20 – 22]

Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1 9

Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis

Subgroup
Fatty alcohols
Alkoxylated (ethoxylated or
propoxylated) fatty alcohols
Ethylene oxide/propylene
oxide-block polymers
Alkylphenol ethoxylates
(alkylphenol polyglycol ethers)
Alkyl polygycosides (APGs)
Ethoxylated Oils and Fats
(lanolin and castor oil derivatives)
Straight alkanolamides
Ethoxylated alkanolamides
Ethoxylated fatty acids
Glycol and glycerol esters and
ethoxylated derivatives
Sorbitan and sorbitol esters and
ethoxylated derivatives
Alkyl carbohydrate esters
(Sugar or Sucrose Esters)
Amine oxides
Function/Application
Co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, thickening agents, foam depressors
Emulsifiers, wetting agents and solubilizers. Household, industrial and personal care products
Automatic dishwashing and laundry detergents, rinse aids. Good thickening and gelling properties makes them in-
teresting for cosmetic products, they are used as emulsifiers, solubilizing or fluidizing agents.
Wetting and washing agents, emulsifiers and solubilizers. Due to ecotoxicological reasons their use is diminished
Emulsifiers, wetting and foaming agents. Detergents, personal care cleansers, skin care products. Chemically stable
in neutral, alkaline and acidic (pH < 5) conditions
Emulsifiers, mainly used in cosmetic industry
Foamers, foam boosters and foam stabilizers. Household detergent products, shampoos and cleaners
Thickening, foam stabilizing and dispersing agents. Personal care cleansers
Excellent emulsifiers for cosmetic, household and industrial use. Mild cleansers and viscosity agents. Domestic and
industrial detergents (degreasing composition)
Food industry, emulsifiers and stabilizers. In pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry they are used as emulsifying
agents, oily compounds, refatting agents, emollients and skin conditioners in creams, lotions, ointments, and gels
Emulsifiers, components of oil phase, solubilizers and wetting agents in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food indus-
try, similar to the previous group
Food-grade ingredients used as food additives (emulsifiers and stabilizers). Mild surfactants which can be used as
emulsifiers and cleansing agents with emollient properties.
Solubilizers and detergents, compatible with all other surfactants. Shampoos (viscosity agents, reduce eye irritancy,
enhance foam properties). Suitable in slightly acidic or neutral formulas. Domestic cleaners (used in association
with anionic surfactants). Industrial applications: liquid bleach products, textile industry, foam stabilizers and in anti-
corrosion formulations

Table 2 Non-ionic surfactants and their respective application [20 – 22]

aforementioned advantages and interesting properties (i. e.
physicochemical properties, biological activity, biocompatibil-
ity and biodegradability), but also due to their high productiv-
ity from renewable resources [27 – 36]. Among the biosurfac-
tants, glycolipids may be more frequently found in the com-
position of cosmetics and personal care products, serving as
multifunctional ingredients in their formulations [37].
Structurally, they are long-chain aliphatic acids or hydro-
xyaliphatic acids in combination with a carbohydrate moiety.
Based on the nature of the carbohydrate moiety, glycolipids
can be sub-divided into rhamnose lipids, trehalose lipids, so-
phorose lipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids,
lipomannosyl-mannitols, lipomannans and lipoarabinoman-
nanes, diglycosyl diglycerides, monoacylglycerol and galacto-
syl-diglyceride [27]. Within this group, rhamnose lipids, so-
phorose lipids, and mannosylerythritol lipids are the most
investigated surfactants, and are envisioned for prospective
application in the production of cosmetics [37].
Sophorolipids
Sophorolipids are produced by nonpathogenic yeast strains
such as Candida sp, especially Candida bombicola. Although
some other strains such as Wickerhamiella domercqiae, Pichia
anomala, Rhodotorula bogoriensis serve this purpose as well,
C. bombicola is the only strain used for their commercial
production to this day [38]. The hydrophilic part of a so-
phorolipid consists of disaccharide sophorose (2-O-b-D-glu-
copyranosyl-D-glucopyranose) while the hydrophobic part
comprises a terminal or subterminal hydroxylated fatty acid,
linked via a b-glycosidic bond to the sophorose molecule
(Fig. 1). Sophorolipids preserve their function and activity
in high salt concentrations and across a wide temperature
range [39, 40]. However, they show considerable instability
at pH values higher than 7.0 – 7.5 when they are prone to hy-
drolysis. As for their solubility, at pH 5 or lower sophoroli-
pids are dispersed rather than dissolved in water [38].
Based on the general surfactants’ classification, sophoroli-
pids are nonionic surfactants. They have various functions
and may serve as emulsifiers, wetting and foaming agents,
solubilizers, detergents, irrespective of their biological activ-
ity [18]. Hence, they are used as multifunctional cosmetic in-
gredients which have good skin compatibility and their ap-
plication is mainly presented trough a number of patents
[37]. Due to their bactericidal activity, they may be found in
cosmetics intended for acne, dandruff and body odours
treatment [41]. Sophorolipids have shown additional activ-
ities which make them interesting as possible active cos-
metic ingredients such as: (i) desquamating and depigment-
ing agents, due to the removal of stratum corneum surface
layers, (i) agents for cellulite treatment since they stimulate
leptin synthesis in adipocytes, and (iii) anti-age actives as
both stimulators of fibroblast metabolism and collagen neo-
synthesis and inhibitors of free radicals [37]. They are also
used in decorative cosmetics: pencil-shaped lip rouge, lip
cream, eye shadow and compressed powder [41].
Although sophorolipids find various uses in cosmetic in-
dustry due to their poor solubility at pH values lower then 5,
they are by no means good candidates for formulations with
acidic active substances [38].
Rhamnolipids
Although sophorolipids were the first microbiological bio-
surfactants on the market, rhamnolipids are the most inves-
tigated ones [42]. Rhamnolipids consist of one or two mole-

10 Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1

Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
cules of l-(+)-rhamnose and one or two molecules of b-hy-
droxyalkanoic acid (Fig. 2). Even though investigation and
optimization of rhamnolipid production as well as product
portfolio expansion represent an emerging research field,
the most important strain for rhamnolipids’ commercial
production remains Pseudomonas aeruginosa [43 – 46].
Rhamnolipids have an anionic character and Nguyen et
al. showed that they are hydrophilic surfactants [47, 48],
while their hydrophilicity–hydrophobicity balance (HLB)
has been reported to be 22 – 24 by Xie et al [49]. They have
shown an excellent emulsifying potential with different
compounds [50, 51], and their antimicrobial activity against
both fungi and bacteria has been confirmed [52, 53].
Rhamnolipids have been used in health care products not
only due to their high surface activity and emulsifying prop-
erties, but also because of their biological activity. Some of
the products mentioned in Lourith and Kanlayavattanakul
and Muhammad and Mahsa papers are insect repellents,
acne pads, antacids, anti-dandruff products, contact lens so-
lutions, deodorants, nail care products and toothpastes [37,
54]. Additionally, among the available patents there are cer-
tain anti-ageing cosmetic products which contain rhamnoli-
pids as active agents [55, 56].
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
For rhamnolipids it was shown that their tension activity
remained unaltered over a broad pH range from 5 to 10
[57 – 60]. Although none of the consulted literature describes
cosmetic formulations with both acidic active substances
and rhamnolipids, it could be assumed that these biosurfac-
tants may be appropriate for formulations with lower pH.
Mannosylerythritol lipids
Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) or ustilipids present a very
interesting sub-class of glycolipids which are currently con-
sidered the most promising group of biosurfactants [61].
They consist of 4-O-b-D-mannopyranosyl-meso-erythriol as
hydrophilic moiety, and fatty acids of different hydrocarbon
chains, as the hydrophobic portion as presented in Fig. 3
[41]. They are further subdivided to MEL-A (di-acetylated),
MEL-B (mono-acetylated at C-4’), MEL-C (mono-acetylated
at C-6’) and a new non-acetylated group MEL-D. MELs are
produced by fungal strains Pseudozyma sp. and Ustilago sp.
in relatively high and low quantities, respectively [62]. MEL-
A and MEL-B are highly hydrophobic and show an excellent
surface activity with low CMC; hence, it is appropriate to use
them as emulsifiers, dispersants and detergents [63].
Figure 1 Sophorolipids
Figure 2 Rhamnolipids
11
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
MELs have attracted considerable attention as new cos-
metic ingredients owing to their ability to form liquid-crys-
tals, their moisturizing and antioxidant properties, as well
as their hair repair effect [18, 64]. Since MELs easily form
lyotropic liquid crystals, it was expected that they would be
effective in moisture retention and maintenance at the skin’s
intercellular level. Additionally, similarity in the structure of
MELs and ceramides directed some researchers to investi-
gate the moisturizing capacity of MELs. The subsequently
conducted studies have proved their excellent moisturizing
characteristics, equivalent to those of natural ceramides [61,
65]. Regarding the use of MELs in damaged hair treatment
Morito et al. demonstrated the efficiency of MELs in recovery
of damaged hair, improving the hair smoothness and flex-
ibility [66]. The same research group confirmed the antioxi-
dant properties of MELs which make them interesting as po-
tential anti-aging skin care ingredients [67].
4.1.2 Lipopeptides
Lipopeptides or acylpeptides are composed of a fatty acid
linked to a short linear or cyclic peptide chain. They are a
family of structural homologues differing in type, number
(7 to 25) and configuration of the amino acids in the peptide
moiety, the length (13 to 17 carbons) and the composition of
the fatty acid chain, as well as the link between the two parts
[68 – 73]. Lipopeptides are produced by various microorgan-
isms, including fungi and numerous bacterial genera [74].
For this group of biosurfactants, it has been reported that
their functions are dependant not only on the biosurfactant
properties, but also on the applied bacterial strain [75]. The
most important producers of lipopeptides are Bacillus sp,
Paenibacillus sp. and Pseudomonas sp. [74, 76, 77]. Structural
diversity of lipopeptides contributes to their numerous func-
tional properties; they can be used as emulsifiers, disper-
sing, foaming, viscosity, solubilizing and mobilizing agents,
foaming depressors. Surfactin, iturin, fengycin, and licheny-
sin are the most documented lipopeptide families [75]. They
are found in different application fields including cosmetics,
almost as much as glycolipids [28, 72]. Lipopeptides have
been used in diverse cosmetic products, so far encompass-
ing: cleansing products as detergents and emulsifying
agents, anti-ageing products as anti-wrinkle agents, whiten-
ing cosmetics as whitening agents, and finally, due to their
broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity they could also en-
sure product preservation [78 – 83]. Many of the mentioned
applications are presented as patents [84].
For lipopeptides an important parameter for their charac-
terization is the isoelectric point. Fçrester et al. investigated
a group of lipopeptides and found that their isoelectric point
lies in the acidic pH range between 2.7 and 4.5 (assessed in
soft water), while their molecules bear a negative charge in
aqueous dispersion at pH 6.5, necessary for stabilization of
oil droplets against coalescence (emulsion stabilizing effect)
Figure 3 Mannosylerythritol lipids
12
[85]. For that reason, lipopeptides are not regarded as pro-
spective candidates for the stabilization of acidic formula-
tions.
4.2 Surfactants based on a natural polar head group
4.2.1 Sugar as polar headgroup
Three classes of these sugar-based surfactants were gaining
tremendous interest over past few decades: alkyl poly-
glucosides (APGs), alkyl glucamides and sugar esters [12].
Also, sorbitan esters and their ethoxylated derivatives have
their place in this group, and they are commonly referred
to by their original registered trade names Span and Tween,
respectively [86]. In spite of the fact that they have been used
for many years, with large and relatively stable market share,
these surfactants are, generally, no longer in the focus of re-
searchers [87].
Alkyl polyglucosides
APGs have been the most intensively explored sugar surfac-
tants. Work done on this topic in the last few decades and
numerous results which concern APGs have been the focus
of several thorough overviews summarized in articles and
books [8, 87 – 92].
APGs are synthesised through a glucosidation reaction,
by a direct reaction of glucose and fatty alcohol or, alterna-
tively, by transacetalization of a short chain alkyl glucoside
with a long chain alcohol [12]. In Fig. 4 a schematic repre-
sentation of APGs is given. Once the optimal reaction condi-
tions for their synthesis (temperature, pressure, reaction
time and ratio of glucose to fatty alcohol) were established,
commercial manufacturing of high quality APG products,
under safe and economically acceptable conditions has be-
gun [87].
Physicochemical properties such as surface and interfacial
tension, CMC, behaviour in solution (phase behaviour) for
APGs are meticulously investigated and described [8, 87,
93]. Subsequently, this class of surfactants has found use in
various applications, mainly in cosmetic products, manual
dishwashing, detergent application, but agricultural applica-
tion as well. With respect to their favourable environmental
profile and excellent dermatological properties (mildness, in
terms of skin irritation potential), APGs attract considerable
interest in personal care industry [94]. In the field of perso-
nal care products they are, mainly, used as emulsifiers and
cleansing agents (Table 2). Regarding their use in cleansing
products, APGs foam considerably better than fatty alcohol
ethoxylates, improving the foam properties of the final pro-
duct (better foam height and stability), while their high
cleaning performance level is not affected by changes in the
pH level [8]. Therefore, a majority of personal care cleansing
products (face, body and hair cleaning) in the market around
the world contains APGs in the ingredients list.
Figure 4 Alkyl polyglucosides
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
The use of APGs as emulsifying agents has been inten-
sively studied. A complete physicochemical characterization
of surfactants is based on the knowledge of their interfacial
properties and phase behaviour, and both are discussed in
detail in the aforementioned reviews. Particularly important
for APGs’ emulsion stabilizing properties is their phase be-
haviour. Temperature has only a slight influence on their
phase behaviour, and that gives them a significant advantage
over ethoxylated non-ionic surfactants, which show the
phase inversion temperature (PIT) phenomenon. APGs
form, in their pure state, both thermotropic and lyotropic
liquid crystalline phases on heating, or on addition of a sol-
vent, respectively. Generally, their behaviour is influenced by
APGs’ structure, especially the alkyl chain length, where the
increase in chain length results in a greater thermal stability
of both phases.
When a fatty alcohol is added as a third component to the
binary APG/water mixtures different lamellar phases appear
over the entire concentration range. Therefore, medium-
and long-chain APG mixtures with long-chain fatty alcohols
are especially interesting as emulsifiers for delivery systems
that are, hence, stabilized with lamellar liquid crystalline
phases [8, 95, 96]. APG mixed emulsifiers have been exten-
sively investigated in previous years, regarding their usage
in cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsion systems [97 – 107].
Savic et al. [98] showed that C16 – C18 mixed APG emulsi-
fier, despite its low HLB value (around 6), enables the stabi-
lisation of oil in water (o/w) systems by a synergistic effect
of hydrophilic and lipophilic gel network, as well as by la-
mellar liquid crystalline bilayers surrounding the oil dro-
plets. Subsequent investigations of APG mixed emulsifiers
with shorter (C12 – C14), and longer chain length (C20 – C22)
confirmed the presence of similar patterns [105, 107], show-
ing that APGs stabilize emulsion systems via the formation
of various liquid crystalline structures. These three-dimen-
sional anisotropic structures, although cannot be considered
as a new phenomenon, have gained considerable attention
as a part of cosmetic or pharmaceutical delivery systems, be-
cause they are not only able to provide a satisfactory stability,
but they induce interesting water distribution within the sys-
tem as well [108]. Regarding the fact that other excipients in
the formulation may have considerable impact on the self-
assemble process that occurs prior to the liquid crystalline
phase formation, those excipients, primarily oil compo-
nents, may also become a part of a lamellar phase and influ-
ence the liquid crystalline phase’s overall characteristics
[109]. Depending on the chosen surfactant/oil combination,
the obtained colloidal structure may possess variable frac-
tions of water: (i) free (or bulk) water, (ii) water bound within
the lipophilic gel phase (secondary water), (iii) interlamellar
water fixed between the gel crystalline lipid bilayers and (iv)
interlamellar water fixed between lipid bilayers in the liquid
crystalline state [99, 107, 110]. Lukic et al. have explored the
hydration potential of simple APG based emulsions in real-
time conditions and showed that the prolonged moisturiz-
ing effect of the investigated emulsions could be explained
by the gradual liberation of the interlamellar water [107]. It
was later confirmed that the specific colloidal structure of
APG based emulsion systems contributes to their high
moisturizing potential, while due to the similarity of the liq-
uid crystalline phase and the stratum corneum organisation,
these emulsion systems increase the skin barrier integrity
and can contribute to the recovery of damaged skin [110].
Advantages provided by the APG based vehicles find prac-
tical usage in cosmetic formulation. Gradual liberation of
water leads to a prolonged moisturizing effect. Also if the
active substance is water soluble, its prolonged/modified re-
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
lease may be obtained in this manner. Additionally, the posi-
tive effect on the skin barrier is very important for formula-
tions which contain actives with possible adverse effects on
the skin and this will be discussed in more detail in one of
the following sections.
Alkyl glucamides
Alkyl or fatty acid glucamides are composed of only one sin-
gle carbohydrate molecule attached to the fatty acid chain.
Their synthesis involves the reaction of glucose with methyl-
amine under reductive conditions in order to avoid signifi-
cant amounts of unreacted N-methyl glucamine (potential
precursor for nitrosamines). Due to some of the manufac-
turing difficulties this class of compounds failed to enter
the market until certain improvements have been made
[111].
These surfactants are biologically active and therefore con-
sidered as good prospects for future chemical preparation of
compounds useful as antibiotics and even anticancer agents
[112]. On the other hand, they are commercially important
products for the detergent sector, mainly used in powdered
and liquid detergents and liquid dishwashing agents [12,
87].
Sugar esters
From the market perspective, sugar surfactants are a rela-
tively new class of surfactants, although they have received
the attention of scientific community for the last 50 years.
Their hydrophilic part is a carbohydrate, usually mono- or
oligosaccharide and the hydrophobic tail, which is usually
derived from a fatty acid, is esterified onto the carbohydrate
[113]. Although some may be found in nature, most of them
are synthesized from renewable sources, either chemically
or enzymatically [114 – 119]. The selective acylation of sugars
is difficult due to the similar reactivity of the hydroxyl
groups; consequently the chemical synthesis requires mul-
ti-step protection and de-protection to avoid di- and tri-esters
formation as by-products which affect quality of the final
product [120 – 121]. Contrary to the conventional chemical
catalysis, enzyme catalysis can be performed under milder
and simpler process conditions, and with higher selectivity.
Despite the fact that the majority of technical difficulties in
their large-scale production have already been overcome,
there is still a great interest in improvement of sugar surfac-
tant synthesis [122 – 127].
Sugar esters are non-ionic biodegradable surfactants with
attractive properties, available in a wide range of HLB values
related to different sugar and fatty acid combinations used
in the synthesis [128]. Depending on their HLB values, they
are suitable for a range of applications varying from emulsi-
fiers, solubilizing and foaming agents, antibacterial agents
to lubricants [129]. The most promising group of sugar sur-
factants are sucrose esters [87]. They are tasteless, odourless,
non-toxic and have good functional properties (emulsifica-
tion, emulsion stabilization, foaming, etc), thus making
them an interesting option for the food industry [113]. Re-
garding their dermatological properties, they are described
as very mild which places them among raw materials favour-
able for personal care products and cosmetic application
[87]. Although these surfactants have been known since
1960s, they are relatively new materials in the field of phar-
maceutical technology [129]. Their use in the advanced deliv-
ery systems such as microemulsions and nano-carriers is
being assessed. Thevenin et al. demonstrated that a sucrose
ester could be adopted to form water in oil (w/o) microemul-
13
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
sion system in the presence of a short chain alcohol as co-
emulsifier, while Khiew et al. found that sucrose ester-based
microemulsions provide a suitable microenvironment for
the preparation of nanomaterials [130, 131].
Although they are commercially available and commonly
employed surfactants in the food and personal care industry,
sucrose esters’ behaviour in multiphase systems, unlike
APGs, has not been thoroughly investigated. Recent work
of Klang et al. evaluated the influence of processing tem-
perature, type and amount of sucrose esters and the incor-
porated oil on the physical properties of the produced emul-
sions [132]. They have confirmed that the investigated
sucrose esters are excellent surfactants for the formulation
of skin-friendly semi-solid emulsions. Once again their work
pointed out that in order to understand emulsions’ colloidal
structure, to optimize formulation properties as well as to
investigate the appropriate formulation for commercial ap-
plication, a detailed characterization of the system has to be
conducted.
4.2.2 Amino acid as polar headgroup
Hydrophilic moiety of these surfactants comprises amino
acids or short peptides. The long aliphatic chain can be
bound to the amino acid by acyl, ester, alkyl or amide lin-
kages and their synthesis is based on organic or enzymatic
processes [133]. Amino acid-based surfactants are classified
based on three main structures: linear or a single chain, di-
meric or gemini and glycerolipid-like structures; depending
on the choice of amino acid and the synthesis procedure,
either anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants
can be prepared [14]. Generally, a research of amino acid-
based surfactants is mainly addressing their synthesis, prop-
erties and biological activity, and for more detailed reading
on these topics the following references are recommended
[14, 133 – 135]. Due to the large variety of amino acid/pep-
tide structures, together with variations in the fatty acid
chain structure, length and number, this group shows a
wide structural diversity, as well as different physico-chem-
ical and biological properties [14]. Although some amino
acid-based surfactants are established on the market, their
share is still relatively small [134].
For the synthesis of a single chain amino acid/peptide
surfactant, any of the 20 standard amino acids can be used,
but the most common are arginin-based surfactants [12]. For
the investigated surfactants within this group, it was demon-
strated that: (i) Their surface activity is comparable to that of
conventional long chain quaternary ammonium salts. (ii)
They show complex and unusual phase behaviour and (iii)
some of them have very valuable antimicrobial properties
[14]. Lipoamino acid vehicles were investigated as potential
drug carriers and for the preparation of functional lipo-
somes with lipopeptide ligands where they showed good en-
capsulation efficiencies for the selected solutes [136, 137].
Gemini surfactants are amphipathic compounds formed
by two hydrophilic and two hydrophobic groups per mole-
cule linked by a spacer at the level of the head groups [14].
Due to their dimeric structure gemini surfactants usually
show a lower CMC, higher efficiency in surface tension re-
duction and a better solubilizing capacity when compared to
the conventional single chain products [138].
Amino acid glyceride conjugates consist of one or two ali-
phatic chains and one amino acid, linked through an ester
bond in the glycerol backbone and they can be synthetized
using chemical and enzymatic methodologies [14]. They are
a new group of compounds and their properties have not
been extensively explored. Based on some of the published
14
data, these surfactants could present an interesting alterna-
tive to diglycerides and lecithins in the formulations that
need antimicrobial properties.
5 Formulations with acidic pH
At the beginning of any product formulation there are a
variety of factors that have to be considered, such as essen-
tial ingredients, critical ingredients and formulation stability
[139]. Therefore, it is not unusual that formulations with
acidic active substances present a challenge for formulators,
since the essential ingredients within these products are also
critical ingredients as well, which have negative effect on the
formulation stability.
Although the majority of these active substances can be
classified based on their chemical structure as acids, the fact
that a substance is an acid is underlined only when the
acidic pH of the formulation is necessary for chemical or
biological stability or/and performance of the cosmetic pro-
duct [140]. The most exploited actives with a pH-dependant
stability are the group of alpha-hydroxy acids, antiperspirant
actives, self-tanning active dihydroxy-acetone and some ac-
tives like ascorbic acid and polyphenols which are more
stable at the acidic pH.
In order to identify promising, novel surfactants which
can be used as stabilizers of vehicles for acidic active sub-
stances, we have reviewed scientific publications and other
available reliable data dealing with the incorporation of
these actives in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with
novel (mainly natural) surfactants. In the following section
a more detailed description of potential problems regarding
the chosen acidic active substances is given, together with
the achievements accomplished in this field.
5.1 Alpha-hydroxy acids
The alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been utilized in count-
less cosmetic formulations due to their well-established ben-
efits for both normal and diseased skin. AHAs are effective
exfoliants, moisturizers and anti-aging agents [141, 142].
A problem related to AHA use is that they often cause ir-
ritation to the skin, usually manifested as redness, burning
and itching [143]. This irritation is mainly due to the non-io-
nized AHA itself, which rapidly penetrates the skin and the
inevitably low pH of these formulations. A formulation’s pH
value has to be set near the AHA’s pKa value in order to re-
tain a higher percentage of the non-ionized, free acid form,
since only this form is immediately bioavailable for penetra-
tion through the skin. In order to diminish adverse effects
but maintain efficacy, two approaches have been the most
intensively investigated. First approach involves certain con-
trolled-release mechanisms and includes the use of ampho-
teric amino-acids and molecular complexing agents [144,
145]. For the purpose of this review, another approach based
on the investigation of a proper vehicle which could contri-
bute to the overall efficacy of actives and the reduction of po-
tential adverse effects is much more interesting.
In order to optimize delivery and efficacy of the product,
AHA formulations have to be developed in a low pH range,
typically around 4. Consequently, this rules out the use of
some of the more traditional cosmetic ingredients. Namely,
the small chain esters (emollients or fragrances) hydrolyse
under acidic conditions, while thickeners which have to be
neutralized via an alkaline base are not able to function in
an acidic formulation. The use of ingredients that perform
well in a low pH range and have a good electrolyte tolerance
is recommended for AHA formulation. Therefore, a suitable
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
thickener is often one of the natural polysaccharides such as
xanthan gum and cellulose ethers. As for the emulsifier, a
mixture of non-ionic emulsifiers and fatty alcohols is the
most common combination for emulsion stabilization. The
majority of products on the market contain some of the non-
ionic emulsifiers which include mixtures of fatty acids and/
or alcohols of about 12 to 24 carbon atoms in length and
emulsifying waxes prepared from cetostearyl alcohol con-
taining a polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivative of a fatty ester
of sorbitan [146 – 149]. Some studies have shown that tradi-
tionally used acid-stable PEG emulsifiers could induce er-
ythema in healthy skin [150]. For the last two decades, enor-
mous interest in the field of natural surfactants with sugar
polar headgroup has introduced APG surfactants and su-
crose esters in the formulations with low pH values [151 –
153]. Although the market of cosmetics is overflowed with
the formulations containing these surfactants, there are only
few studies dealing with the influence of an acidic active on
the vehicles’ physicochemical characteristics and overall per-
formance of such products. Majority of scientific work was
done with the most investigated APG surfactants, as it was
already mentioned.
Tasic-Kostov et al. have demonstrated in several very de-
tailed studies that commercially available APG-mixed emul-
sifiers (investigated emulsifiers and co-emulsifier: (i) cetearyl
alcohol and coco glucoside, (ii) cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl
glucoside and (iii) myristyl alcohol and myristyl glucoside)
can be used as stabilizers for emulsions intended to be ap-
propriate carriers for acidic active substances: alpha- and
polymeric, glycolic and lactobionic acid, respectively [154 –
156]. Their findings have shown that lactobionic acid, as a
highly hygroscopic substance, strongly influenced the colloi-
dal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and even pro-
moted the formation of lamellar structures thus influencing
the mode of water distribution within the cream [154]. The
investigation of glycolic acid efficacy confirmed that, when
incorporated in an APG-based emulsion, this active shows
less irritation [156]. Also, significantly improved skin mois-
turization and lack of skin irritation and damage, which are
demonstrated in this study, are explained with the effect of
APG-based vehicle itself. In the study which was focused
on the investigation of the systems’ sensory characteristics,
Lukic et al. have shown that long-chain APG emulsifier com-
prising arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glu-
coside, could also successfully serve as the stabilizer for sys-
tems containing glycolic and salicylic acid [157].
5.2 Antiperspirants
Antiperspirants are sweating-inhibiting agents, and antiper-
spirant preparations are mainly intended to reduce the
amount of sweating [158]. The most important representa-
tives of this group of actives are aluminium and zirconium
salts which reduce sweat by causing mechanical obstruction
to the eccrine sweat duct at the acrosyringium level. These
active ingredients are mainly complexes which differ only
in the relative amounts of aluminium, chloride, and zirco-
nium [159]. Aluminium-based compounds in antiperspir-
ants are characterized by an acidic pH value, thus being re-
sponsible for the acidity of the entire formulation (pH
ranging from 3.5 to 4.5) [160]. The first antiperspirant intro-
duced to the market at the beginning of the last century, in
1916, was aluminium chloride hexahydrate [161]. Due to its
high acidity, skin irritation and clothing damage this com-
pound is not used in personal care/cosmetic products any-
more. However, it is still frequently used as a prescription
antiperspirant for the treatment of hyperhidrosis [158]. In
Tenside Surf. Det. 53 (2016) 1
1947, aluminium chlorhydrate was introduced which is con-
sidered less irritant but also less effective, while in the late
1960s the first aluminium-zirconium salts were placed on
the market. Therefore, it is obvious that the formulators
had to deal with similar challenging actives for almost a cen-
tury. Antiperspirants are applied underarm and, unlike the
actives in these products, the way that they are applied has
changed intensely over time. First antiperspirants were liq-
uid formulations applied to the armpit with cotton balls,
which were slow to dry. With the introduction of roll-on,
sticks and aerosols began the era of aesthetically appealing
and easy to apply antiperspirants which are today on the
market. The biggest innovation in this field was the intro-
duction of cyclomethicone, a quick-dry solvent which evapo-
rates quickly, leaving the active ingredient behind without
any greasiness or stickiness. However, these compounds
are nowadays submitted through regulatory enquiries in
Europe because of some concerns that they may bioaccumu-
late in the environment [162, 163]. Outcome of these safety
considerations and environmental issues could drastically
jeopardise current trends in antiperspirant formulations
and potentially provoke certain changes and maybe even in-
troduce natural surfactants to these products.
As for the generally used emulsifiers within emulsion
antiperspirant products, traditionally used acid-stable emul-
sifiers are commonly listed as ingredients in these formula-
tions [164]. To the best of our knowledge, there are no find-
ings among the scientific literature referring to antiperspir-
ant formulations with novel surfactants. Based on the data
reviewed in this paper we could presume that biosurfac-
tants, due to their biological, i. e. antimicrobial activity, espe-
cially rhamnolipids which are claimed to be used in deodor-
ant products, could be the most interesting for this special
personal care field.
5.3 Dihydroxyacetone
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the active substance in sunless
tanning cosmetic products which has been commercially
available for nearly half a century [165]. Browning of the
skin after DHA application is caused by the Maillard reac-
tion, which is a non-enzymatic glycation of the amino
groups of amino acids, peptides and proteins from the
upper layer of the stratum corneum by the carbonyl groups
of sugars, resulting in the formation of advanced glycation
end products [166]. DHA is by far the most common active
in sunless tanning products, and when about to formulate
DHA-based preparations one factor has to be especially con-
sidered. Although stable as a crystalline powder, when dis-
solved in water DHA gradually tautomerizes to glyceralde-
hyde and this process escalates along with the pH and
temperature increase [167]. Therefore, it is generally ac-
cepted that stable sunless tanning products should have pH
values between 3 and 4 [140].
Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly pop-
ular in recent years, since they provide desirable tan without
the dangers of developing skin cancer [168]. Nevertheless,
there is an absence in the scientific interest towards the
problem of DHA’s stability in some of the novel delivery sys-
tems or systems based on novel surfactants. A possible ex-
planation lies in the fact that the existing cosmetic formula-
tions are already favoured with generally satisfying stability
and efficacy. For these actives, stabilization is accomplished
with the same, traditional, acid-stable emulsifiers, as already
mentioned for AHAs [148, 149, 169 – 173]. Among the re-
lated patents, an APG surfactant was used as the emulsifier
in self tanning products containing DHA [174].
15
Milica Lukic et al.: An overview of novel surfactants for formulation of cosmetics with certain emphasis
An interesting study has reported that a novel surfactant
with a favourable combination of safety and acidic stability
can be used with DHA, in order to formulate acidic but
non-irritating self-tanning products with a stable pH value
[167]. Although this novel surfactant, perfluoropolyether
phosphate, cannot be considered a natural surfactant, we
find it appropriate to at least mention this research as a valu-
able guide for DHA-products formulators.
6 Concluding remarks
Sugar esters or surfactants with polar headgroup, especially
APG surfactants, are currently the best positioned and well
established natural surfactants on the market. They possess
great surfactant properties, but also contribute to the overall
formulation efficacy when used as stabilizers for different
cosmetic products. Therefore, it is not surprising that they
do not cease to elicit interest of scientists dealing with the
formulation development.
As for biosurfactants, the scientific community is still
mainly focused on the investigations related to their synthe-
sis and basic physicochemical properties. It is envisioned
that sophorolipids which can be found in some cleaning
agents, together with the emerging class of rhamnolipids,
will become the next generation of surfactants to reach the
market. Consequently, surfactants of microbial origin will
get in the focus of formulation scientists.
In spite of the numerous benefits associated with the re-
viewed novel surfactants, available data referring to stability
issues of several biosurfactant groups imply that they cannot
be considered universally appropriate stabilizers for formu-
lations with acidic pH values.
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to acknowledge the financial support
from the Ministry of Science and Technological Development, Re-
public of Serbia (Project number TR34031).
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Bibliography
DOI 10.3139/113.110405
Tenside Surf. Det.
53 (2016) 1; page 7 – 19
ª Carl Hanser Verlag GmbH & Co. KG
ISSN 0932-3414
y Correspondence address
Dr. Milica Lukic
University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical
Technology and Cosmetology
Vojvode Stepe 450
11 221 Belgrade
Serbia
Tel.: +381113951365
Fax: +381113972 840
E-Mail: mlukic@pharmacy.bg.ac.rs
The authors of this paper
The authors of this paper
Milica Lukic works as research and teaching assistant at the Department of Pharma-
ceutical Technology and Cosmetology of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of
Pharmacy. She holds a PhD in Cosmetology. Her research interest encompasses
pre-formulation and formulation of dermocosmetic emulsion systems.
Ivana Pantelic is a PhD graduate of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Phar-
macy, where she works as a research and teaching assistant at the Department of
Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her research interest focuses on
emulsion systems, especially those stabilized with natural origin excipients.
Snezana Savic is Assistant Professor at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technol-
ogy and Cosmetology of the University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy. Her re-
search interest encompasses both the field oh Pharmaceutical Technology and Cos-
metology, especially focused on skin delivery systems of emulsion type and novel
surfactants characterization.
19