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#4101

HUDSON PANT

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

DESCRIPTION :
The Hudson pattern is a modern take on the clas-

VIEW A
sic sweatpant. It has front pockets, an elastic
waist, drawstring, and cuffs at the bottom. The
urban fit of these pants leaves a bit of extra room
around the hips and then tapers into a skinny leg.
View A is a full length pant and View B is midcalf.

FABRIC :
Medium weight knits such as cotton lycra, french
terry, ponte, lightweight scuba and sweatshirt knit
with a suggested stretch of approximately 25%.

NOTIONS :

VIEW B
Coordinating thread, 2” wide elastic (1 1/2 yds),
1/4” wide cording (2 yds), 2” x 1” scrap of fusible
interfacing, ballpoint sewing needle.

DIFFICULTY :

SIZE CHART (INCHES / CENTIMETERS)


SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
WAIST 26 / 66 27 / 69 28 / 71 29 / 74 30 / 76 31.5 / 80 33 / 84 34.5 / 88 36.5 / 93 38.5 / 98

HIP 34 / 86 35 / 89 36 / 92 37 / 94 38 / 97 39.5 / 100 41 / 104 42.5 / 108 44.5 / 113 46.5 / 118

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (INCHES / CENTIMETERS)


SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
HIP 37 / 94 38 / 97 39 / 100 40 / 102 41.5 / 105 43 / 109 44.5 / 113 46 / 117 48 / 122 50 / 127
LENGTH A 35.5 / 90 35.75 / 91 36 / 91 36.25 / 92 36.5 / 93 36.75 / 93 37 / 94 37.25 / 95 37.5 / 95 37.75 / 96
LENGTH B 28 / 71 28.25 / 72 28.5 / 72 28.75 / 73 29 / 74 29.25 / 74 29.5 / 75 29.75 / 76 30 / 76 30.25 / 77

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS 45” AND 54” (YARDS / METERS)


SIZE 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
VIEW A 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.75 / 1.6 1.75 / 1.6 1.75 / 1.6 2 / 1.9 2 / 1.9

VIEW B 1.3 / 1.2 1.3 / 1.2 1.3 / 1.2 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.5 / 1.4 1.75 / 1.6 1.75 / 1.6 1.75 / 1.6

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

BEFORE YOU START:


- Be sure to wash and dry all fabric before cutting to avoid shrinking your final garment.

- The pocket detail, waistband, and ankle / calf bands are a great place to add personality by using
contrasting fabrics and textures. If you choose this option, you will need to dedicate 1/2 yd / m to your
contrasting fabric.

- The pattern was drafted to fit a 5’5” woman and a 28” inseam. Shorten or lengthen your pattern as
necessary at the appropriate markings on pattern pieces front (1) and back (2). Be sure to buy additional
yardage to accomodate extra length if needed.

- This is a slim fitting pant. If you would like it to have more ease or if you want to use a less stretchy knit
then I would recommend going up a size.

- Because the Hudson pant has an elastic waist, the hip measurement is most important when selecting
which size to cut. You may blend up or down a size where needed.

- The greatest amount of stretch in your fabric needs to wrap horizontally around your body and therefore
should be perpendicular to the the grainline markings on your pattern pieces.

- Always use a ballpoint sewing needle on your sewing machine to avoid damaging your knit fabric.

- Using a serger will give a more professional look to the inside of your garment, but is not necessary. Most
sewing machines offer a stretch stitch as an alternative or you can sew with an elongated zigzag to
construct your garment. This is especially important on horizontal seams to allow stretching during
movement.

- My instructions refer to using a regular sewing machine, not a serger. If using a serger, disregard instruc-
tions that tell you to press seam allowances open. Press seam allowances to the back or one side
instead.

- All seam allowances are 3/8” unless otherwise stated.

DEFINITIONS:
Topstitching - A row of stitching visible on the right side of the garment.

Basting - A long, temporary stitch used to hold pieces of fabric in place until the final stitching
is done.

STRETCH CHART:
Hold a 4” wide piece of knit fabric in your hands with your fingers clamping the two ends. Hold the fabric
against the chart below over the darkened black rectangle. Take the right end of the fabric and stretch it
from the 4” mark towards the right. If it stops at the 5” mark then it is 25%. It is OK to use knits with more
or less stretch than this, just be aware that it may affect the fit of your pants.

1” 2” 3” 4” 5”

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

PRINTING/ ASSEMBLING YOUR PATTERN AT HOME:


Make sure that your printer scaling is turned off and is set up to print at 100%. Print page 1 of your
pattern first and measure the 3”x 3” square to ensure accurate printing. Cut off the borders as neces-
sary and tape your pattern together, matching the light gray circles and arranging in numerical order as
shown below. For View A, print pages 1 - 22 only. For View B, print pages 1 - 20 and 23 - 25 only.

FABRIC LAYOUT:
PATTERN PIECES:
1. Pant Front WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC
2. Pant Back
3. Main Pocket
4. Pocket Facing RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC
5. Pocket Detail
6. Waistband
7. Ankle Band (View A)
8. Calf Band (View B)

VIEW A SIZES 0-8 VIEW B SIZES 0-8


4
7

8
2

2
4
5
6

5
6
1

1
3

VIEW A SIZES 10-18 VIEW B SIZES 10-18


5

4
7

2
2
1

6
6

8
1

1
3

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

Step 1 - Fold your pocket details in half length- Step 4 - Flip the pocket lining around so that it
wise with the right side out. Press fold. is wrong sides touching with the pant front.
Press the pant front and pocket lining towards
the seam allowance with the pocket detail
standing up between them.

Step 2 - Pin the raw edges of the pocket detail


to the right side of the pocket lining along the
small, unnotched curve, stretching slightly to
fit. Baste the pocket detail to the pocket lining
at 3/8” seam allowance.

Step 5 - Pin the right side of the main pocket to


the right side of the pocket lining along the
long edge. Making sure that the pant front
stays out of the way, stitch the two pocket
pieces together.

Step 3 - Matching notches, pin the right side


of the pocket lining and pocket detail to the
right side of the pant front with the pocket
detail sandwiched in the middle. With the
pocket lining on top, stitch all layers together
along the small curved edge. (You can use
your basting stitch as a guide.) Trim seam Step 6 - Match notches of the pocket pieces
allowance to avoid bulk. to the pant front and baste along the top and
side through all layers.

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

Step 7 - Trim the pocket detail if necessary so Step 9 - With the right leg inside out and the
that the ends are flush with the pant and inner left leg right side out, put the left leg inside of
pocket. the right leg. Legs are now right sides touch-
ing. Match the inner leg seams, center front,
center back, and notches on the crotch. Pin.
Stitch the entire crotch, front to back. Pull
legs apart. Press seam open.

Step 8 - With right sides together, stitch the


left front and left back pant pieces together at Step 10 - Fuse your 2” x 1” scrap of interfac-
the inner leg seam and the side seam. Press ing to the back side of the waistband, horizon-
seams open. Repeat for right leg. tally centered behind the buttonhole marks.
On the right side of the waistband, sew two
1/2” buttonholes on markings. Carefully open
your buttonholes.

Step 11 - Join the two short ends of the waist-


band together, forming a ring, right sides
touching. Pin, stitch, press open.

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

Step 12 - Fold the waistband in half length- Step 15 - Put the elastic all the way inside of
wise, wrong sides touching. Pin the raw edges your waistband and stitch up the 4” opening
together. so that the elastic is fully encased and the
pants are completely attached to the waist-
band. Press the seam allowance down
towards the pant. Distribute the gathering on
the waistband evenly. Pin waistband fabric to
the elastic every few inches to keep the gath-
ering in place.

Step 13 - Match the right side of the waist-


band (side with buttonholes) to the right side
of the pant at the waist. Pin in place, match-
ing center backs, center fronts, and side
seams to circle markings. Stitch together,
leaving a 4” opening at center back.

Step 16 - Using a slight zigzag stitch on your


sewing machine, start at center back and
topstitch around your waistband through both
layers of fabric and the elastic at 5/8” from the
top. You will need to pull your elastic until the
waistband fabric is not gathered in front of
your presser foot as you sew. Repeat with
another row of topstitching, parallel to the
first, at 1 1/2” from the top.
(Tip: Mark this guideline with a piece of mask-
ing tape on your sewing machine.)

Step 14 - Wrap your elastic around your lower


waist and find the length that feels comfort-
able, but is still snug. Add 1/2” for overlap and
cut your elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end
of the elastic and feed it through the 4” open-
ing in the waistband until it forms a circle with
both ends exiting the waistband. Overlap by
1/2” and stitch the overlapped area of the
elastic until it is secure. (I like to do a box with
an X in it, but that is just my preference. As
long as it won’t come undone it’s fine.)

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HUDSON PANT | #4101

Step 17 - Attach your drawstring cord to a Step 20 - Pin the raw edges of one ankle /
safety pin and feed it through one buttonhole, calf band to the right side of the correspond-
into the casing created by the topstitching, ing leg opening. Match the band seam to the
and back out the other buttonhole. Shorten inner leg seam and the band notch to the
cord if necessary. outer leg seam. The band is slightly smaller
than the leg opening, so stretch to match.
Stitch together. Trim seam allowance and
press up towards the leg. Repeat on other
leg.

Step 18 - Start by folding the band in half


widthwise with right sides touching. Pin. Sew
the two short ends together to form a tube.
Press seam open.
Congrats! You are finished.

Step 19 - Fold the bottom of the tube up to


meet the top of the tube with wrong sides
touching, matching notches and seam. Pin
edges together and press fold.

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