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The Moisturizing Sheet Mask Formulation of Black Soybean (Glycine soja)

Ethanolic Extract

Article  in  International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology · April 2020

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 International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology
Vol. 29, No.4, (2020), pp.9045 – 9051

The Moisturizing Sheet Mask Formulation of Black Soybean (Glycine soja)

Ethanolic Extract

Leny*, Khairani Fitri, Reka Marantina, Pricella Aqwilla Ginting, Darwin Syamsul,
Ihsanul Hafiz

Faculty of Pharmacy and Health, Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan 20124 - Indonesia
Email Leny: princessleny19@gmail.com
Khairani Fitri: kharanifitri@gmail.com
Reka Marantina: rmarantina@gmail.com
Pricella Aqwilla Ginting: pricellaginting@yahoo.com
Darwin Syamsul: darwinsyamsul@helvetia.ac.id
Ihsanul Hafiz: ihsanulhafiz@helvetia.ac.id

ABSTRACT
The purpose of this sudy was to find out the mask sheet by using black soybean extract as a
moisturizer and to know its ability to increase water content or moisture on the skin. Sheet masks
were formulated with the addition of black soybean seed extract with a concentration of 1%, 3%,
and 5%, then an evaluation of the formula was carried out in the form of homogeneity, pH, skin
irritation test, stability, and the activity test to moisturize whites. The results of the evaluation of
the formula showed that the sheet mask was homogeneous, pH value 6.1-6.8, did not irritate the
skin, and was stable in storage for 4 weeks. The highest percentage increase in humidity occurred in
the group using positive control followed by the Black Soybean Sheet Mask (BSSM) 5%. There is a
significant difference between the positive control group, BSSM 3 and 5% against negative control,
except BSSM 1%. In the second to fourth week, the 5% BSSM group showed an increase in numbers
so that it did not differ significantly from positive control, so this was marked as the optimum
concentration. The conclusion of this research is that black soybean seed extract can be formulated
in sheet mask form and can increase skin moisture.
Keywords: black soybean, moisturizer, sheet mask, skin analyzer

1. Introduction
Ultraviolet radiation is very dangerous for health and can trigger free radicals. In general, the
main source of ultraviolet light comes from sunlight. Free radicals can be prevented by an oxidant
[1–3].
Antioxidants can be found in a variety of food ingredients, one of which is soybean which is a
popular plant in Indonesia, even today soybeans are the main commodity of food in Indonesia. This
plant belongs to the type of legume, Leguminosae family, in the form of shrubs that grow well in
tropical or subtropical regions [4,5]. One of the important active compounds in soy is isoflavones
which also act as antioxidants. The isoflavones contained in soy extract can inhibit ultraviolet B
rays which impact on the release of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) from the cell [6,7].
Black soybean is a type of soybean with black epidermis containing anthocyanin.
Anthocyanins are a group of phenolic compounds that function as antioxidants for the body. The
total anthocyanin of black soybean is 365.8 μg / g. This affects the antioxidant activity of black
soybeans which is 15 times higher than yellow soybeans [8,9]. Some of the benefits that have been
published in cyberspace media that black soybean is useful for healing diabetes mellitus, obesity,
premature aging and osteoporosis. Black soybeans contain vitamin E, β-carotene, isoflavones and
anthocyanins which contribute to the value of antioxidant activity [9–11].

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Vol. 29, No.4, (2020), pp.9045 – 9051

Sheet masks are generally made of non woven fabric, paper fibers, biocellulose, etc. These
masks are very suitable for use because they are very practical compared to other mask
preparations. Sheet masks are usually infused with lotion or essence. Sheet mask has good closing
or adhering properties so it leaves a moist effect on the skin when compared to other mask [12–14].
The purpose of this study was to determine the formulation of sheet mask preparations from black
soybean seed extract (Glycine soja) as a moisturizer.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1 Instruments and Chemicals

The tools used in this research consist of analytical scales (sartorius), dark bottles, dropper
drops, mortars, stemper, pH meter (Orion EA940), beaker glass (pyrex), spatula, horn spoon,
parchment paper, cup vaporizer, deg glass, measuring cup (pyrex), stir bar, spatula, napkin,
blender, waterbath, vial bottle and moisture checker.
The chemical used were black soybean (Glycine soja), sodium polyacrylate, butylene glycon,
glycerin, methyl paraben, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, 70% ethanol, parfume, distilled water,
sheet mask sheets and foil bags.

2.2 Plant Extraction

Black soybean seeds were cleaned from the epidermis attached to soybeans using warm water.
After cleaned, the black soybean sample was dried in a clean container and mashed using a blender.
Soy beans that have been dried and finely put in a dark color bottle that is closed and add a liquid
or solvent that is 70% ethanol is closed and left protected from sunlight. Maceration was carried
out for 5 days and stirred as often as possible, then the filtrate was filtered and concentrated using
waterbath to obtain a thick extract. After obtaining the black soybean seed extract put into a clean
and tightly closed container [15].

2.3 Formula of Moisturizing Sheet Mask

The formula used in making sheet masks can be seen in Table 1. The procedure for making
sheet masks is carried out in the following stages: Sodium polyacrylate dissolved with distilled
water in mortars, this is called part 1. Butylene glycol, glycerin, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor
The oil is melted by heating and then stirring until it is homogeneous, this is called section 2.
Methyl paraben is dissolved using hot distilled water, called section 3. Mix sections 1, 2 and 3 in a
mortar, then crushed until homogeneous. Finally add the black soybean seed extract, ethanol and
perfume to the mixture, crushed until homogeneous [16,17].

Table 1. Formula of Moisturizing Sheet Mask [18]

Concetration (%)
Materials
0% 1% 3% 5%
Soybean sheed extract - 1 3 5
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Butylene glycol 5 5 5 5
Glycerin 5 5 5 5
Sodium polyacrylate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Methyl paraben 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Ethanol 3 3 3 3
Parfume 2 drops 2 drops 2 drops 2 drops
Distilled water (up to) 100 100 100 100

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2.4 Formula Evaluation

Before testing the activity in embodying the skin, an evaluation of the formula on the sheet
mask includes homogeneity, pH, stability, and irritation tests on human skin.
The mask material is applied to a piece of glass or other suitable transparent material and then
covered using another piece of glass, then observed visually. The mask material must show a
homogeneous arrangement and no visible grain.
Determination of the pH of mask material is done by using a digital pH meter. The instrument
is calibrated first using a standard buffer solution (pH 7.01) and an acidic buffer solution (pH 4.01)
until the tool shows the pH number. Then the electrodes are washed with distilled water, then dried
with a tissue. The sample is made in a concentration of 1%. Then the electrode is dipped in the
solution. Leaving the device shows the pH to a constant value [19,20].
Each formula is taken 5 g and entered into vials. Observations are made when the preparations
have been completed entered into the vial. Physical testing of masks that have been made includes
observations of changes in odor, color and shape (consistency).
Sheet mask that has been cut ± 2.5 cm is placed behind the ear. Irritation is characterized by
redness, itching and swelling. The irritation test is carried out every week for four weeks. The
irritation test was carried out on the sheet mask preparation of black soybean extract on 12
volunteers with a view to knowing that the sheet mask made could cause irritation to the skin or
not. Irritation can be divided into 2 categories, namely primary irritation that will immediately
occur shortly after skin adhering or touching, and secondary irritation whose reaction only occurs a
few hours after touching or sticking to the skin [21–23].

2.5 Moisturizing Activity Test

Moisture effectiveness testing was carried out on 15 people. Divided into 5 groups. Sheet
masks containing active ingredients of black soybean extract were given to 3 groups with each
concentration of 1, 3, and 5%. The remaining two groups constituted the negative control group
(blank) and the positive control was given nuface®. Each volunteer who had been grouped was
first measured the condition of skin moisture before treatment by using a moisture checker tool.
Moisture effectiveness testing is carried out every week for four weeks.

2.6 Data Analysis

Based on the results of the data read by the moisture checker tool, the data are analyzed using
the analysis of variance (ANOVA) method.

3 Results
3.1 Formula Evaluation Results
Homogeneity test results indicate the absence of coarse grains on sheet masks that have been
formulated, it can be concluded that the mask is declared homogeneous. The results of the pH test
measurements from the mask sheet of black soybean seed extract during four weeks storage can be
seen in Table 2 as follows:

Table 2. pH Value of Sheet Mask

pH Value
No Formula st nd
1 Week 2 Week 3rd Week 4th Week
1 Negative Control 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2
2 BSSM 1% 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7
3 BSSM 3% 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4
4 BSSM 5% 6.9 6.9 6.9 6.9
Explanation: BSSM (Black Soybean Sheet Mask)

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Observation results of sheet mask stability test after being deviated for 4 weeks did
not occur physically changes due to changes in color, odor, consistency, and damage to
the mask emulsion. The irritation test results also show that all sheet mask formulas are
safe to use. No itching, redness and swelling in the area attached to the mask.

3.2 Moisturizing Activity

Moisturizing activity measurement results from a mask sheet of black soybean extract that
shows the percentage increase in skin moisture on each test week. Moisture measurement
using the moisture checker tool can be seen in table 3 below:

Table 3. The Percentage of Skin Moistur

Percentage of Skin Moisture

st
No Groups 1 Week 2nd Week 3rd Week 4th Week
1 Negative Control 1.5+0.65 3.56+0.64 5.81+0.76 8.09+0.84
2 Positive Control 5.03+0.48* 9.75+0.47* 12.28+1.12* 14.55+1.56*
3 BSSM 1% 1.85+0.12 5.59+0.56 7.66+0.58 10.35+0.02
* *
4 BSSM 3% 2.29+0.09 6.95+0.09 9.10+0.12 10.68+0.15*
* *# *#
5 BSSM 5% 2.88+0.13 7.91+0.50 10.19+0.35 11.17+0.06*#

Explanation: BSSM (Black Soybean Sheet Mask)

* (significantly different from negative control)

3. Discussion
Based on the test data the pH value can be seen that the higher the concentration of
black soybean extract added, the pH of the preparation slightly rises but the pH value is still
within the permissible pH range and the pH value on a weekly basis shows that the results
remain stable. Thus the mask sheet from the resulting black soybean extract is relatively
safe to use. Based on the data obtained from the irritation test results it can be concluded
that the preparation of sheet masks from black soybean seed extract formulated is safe to
use because it gives negative results on edema and erythema on voluntary skin.
An emulsion becomes unstable due to the collection of globules (lumps) from the
dispersed phase. Damage or failure of a preparation containing easily oxidized material can
be observed with a change in color and change in odor. To overcome the damage to
ingredients due to oxidation can be done with the addition of antioxidants. Damage can also
be caused by fungi or microbes, to overcome this can be done by adding antimicrobials.
Antimicrobial used is nipagin [3].
Based on the results of the stability test showed that each formula that has been
observed for four weeks gave good results that did not experience changes in color, odor
and also phase separation during the storage period. The preparation did not show any
changes, because the sheet mask formula of black soybean extract contains essential amino
acids, vitamin E, saponins, flavonoids, isoflavones as antioxidants that can protect fats that
have double bonds from oxidation and maintain skin moisture [10,24].
Based on the results of the percentage of skin moisture can be seen an increase in the
percentage of moisture in each group along with the length of time wearing a mask. The
highest percentage increase in humidity occurred in the group using positive control
followed by the Black Soybean Sheet Mask (BSSM) 5%. There is a significant difference
between the positive control group, BSSM 3 and 5% against negative control, except BSSM
1%. In the second to fourth week, the 5% BSSM group showed an increase in numbers so
that it did not differ significantly from positive control, so this was marked as the optimum
concentration.

ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAST 9048

Copyright SERⓒSC 2020
 International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology
Vol. 29, No.4, (2020), pp.9045 – 9051

Black soybean is a type of soybean with black epidermis containing anthocyanin.

Anthocyanins are a group of phenolic compounds that function as antioxidants for the body.
The total anthocyanin of black soybean is 365.8 μg / g. This affects the antioxidant activity
of black soybeans which is 15 times higher than yellow soybeans. The antioxidant ability
possessed by black soybeans is the main role that maintains the stability of the preparation
and provides skin moisturizing activity [5,9,25,26].

4. Conclusion
The conclusion of this research is black soybean seed extract can be formulated in the
form of mask sheet as a moisturizer and can increase skin moisture.

5. Conflict of Interest
All author have no to declare.

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Authors

Author’s picture Leny, the cosmetology lecturer in Faculty of Pharmacy and Health,
should be in Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan, Indonesia. Email:
grayscale. princessleny19@gmail.com
Picture size should
be absolute
3.18cm in height
and absolute
2.65cm in width

ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAST 9050

Copyright SERⓒSC 2020
 International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology
Vol. 29, No.4, (2020), pp.9045 – 9051

Khairani Fitri, the pharmacognosy lecturer in Faculty of

Pharmacy and Health, Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan, Indonesia.
Email: kharanifitri@gmail.com

Reka Marantina, the pharmacy student in Faculty of Pharmacy

and Health, Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan, Indonesia. Email:
rmarantina@gmail.com

Pricella Aqwilla Ginting, the clinical dan hospital pharmacy in

Faculty of Pharmacy and Health, Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan,
Indonesia. Email: pricellaginting@gmail.com

Darwin Syamsul, Dean of Pharmacy and Health, Faculty of

Pharmacy and Health, Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan, Indonesia.
Email: darwinsyamsul@helvetia.ac.id

Ihsanul Hafiz, Head of Research and Community Service in

Institut Kesehatan Helvetia, Medan, Indonesia. Email:
ihsanulhafiz@helvetia.ac.id

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