Heater Core By-pass for US ELISE 2004+

Author: James A. (Tony) Wattwood, jwattwood@cfl.rr.com, (407)359-4216

Date: 07/24/06
This article is written to address one of the issues of the Lotus Elise AC performance
in my car. My experience is with my 2004 Elise (#SCCPC11115HL30062). I make
no representations on whether this affects your warranty or not. If it did, my
question would be why Lotus has not addressed this common issue even after
repeated complaints to dealers. This mod is to allow my car to be used in warm
weather. Desperation is a strong motive.

The experience level required to do this modification is moderate. It will require

cutting heater hoses and vacuum hoses, installing clamps and vacuum tubing and
wiring a simple switch. Finally, the cooling system will have to be refilled for lost
fluid and the cooling system bled as recommended by Lotus. But don’t be scared
off, it’s really a straightforward mod, just a bit messy and requires working in some
tight places.

You can skip the rest of this page if you aren’t interested in the details
of the whys. Some people want to know, some just want the fix.
Specifically, my car suffers from poor AC performance. It blows cold for the first
20 minutes or so, and then the vent temperature creeps up to the point where the
AC output is outside temperature or even warmer. With the AC off, it blows warm
air through the vents in the cockpit even when the temperature is set to full cold.

My conclusion is that the heater core which is always hot (by design) is either heat-
soaking the AC system so that it warms the AC output or the blend door does not
close fully which allows air to travel through the heater core even when the
temperature in the car is set to full cold.

My solution for this issue was to create a heater core bypass system with the
following requirements:
1) Must be controllable from the cockpit to turn the by-pass on or off
2) Must return to the non-bypass mode whenever the engine is turned off. This
is required to support the feature where the car can run an electric
circulating pump after engine shutdown to prevent hot spots in the engine
from overheating.
3) Must be light, operate reliably, and be built from readily available parts
4) Must be reversible (no permanent modification to the car other than readily
replaceable parts)
All requirements were met with the solution on the following pages. The total cost is
approximately $60 for the conversion. For requirement 4) only two heater hoses
would have to be replaced to convert the car back to original. Two 5/8 heater hose
repair nipples could be used to save the cost of new hoses.
The red arrows indicate the two hoses that will be cut. The blue arrow indicates the
flow when the bypass is switched on. This diagram does not have the heater core in
the correct position. It actually resides on the passenger side of the HVAC unit. The
diagram is functionally the same as my car. (Diagram found on the net)

Valve installed in car. Red arrows indicate normal flow, blue arrow is bypass flow.
Kit components

Parts List:

Name Qty Part # Description Application Approx.

Cost ($)
Bypass 1 Four Seasons 74809 Heater 1998 Ford
Valve or Motorcraft Bypass Valve Ranger 20
YG350 w/4-port
valve, any
engine
EGR 1 unknown Electrically 1990 Chevy 17
Vacuum controlled Astro Van,
Switch solenoid smallest
engine size
Heater 4 Appropriate to fit Worm drive 4
hose heater hose lines, clamps
clamps approximately 1.5”
diameter
Heater 2 Suitable for Worm drive 2
hose securing large clamp
clamps vacuum hose,
approximately 1” in
 diameter.
Vacuum 3 ft 1/8” or 7/64” 2
Hose
Large tie 10 8 inch 1
wraps
Small tie 10 4 inch 1
wraps
Snap-off 1 Capable of handling Hard plastic 2
vacuum ½” hose and 1/8” vacuum tee
tee hose (see picture)
SPST 1 12 volt switch to fit 3
Switch in cockpit in a
location of your
choice
Electric 2 ft, 16 Gauge 3
wire for 10 ft minimum. 2
switch ft of black
for ground,
10 ft of some
other color
for 12VDC.
Add-on 1 10 amp fuse 3
fuse holder.
Several styles
available.
(pic on last
pg.)
Solderless Crimp-on 2
connectors Asso wiring
rtme connectors
nt for switch
and EGR
valve
Red Line 1 Makes heat 8
Water transfer of
Wetter cooling
(optional) system more
efficient
Total (with 68
options)

End of Introduction Section

Installation Instructions

Section 1 – Installing the Vacuum Source

Always take your time, nothing has to be forced and be very careful not to drop
hardware into car.

1) Remove the driver’s side and passenger side cowls (1 screw) and passenger
grill (2 screws). These are located in front of the windshield (over the
radiator area). When removed they will expose the fuse box (passenger side)
and the brake master cylinder (driver side). Set the cowls and grills aside.

2) Remove the fuse box screws (2) being careful not to drop the white spacers
between the fuse box and its attachment points. There is enough slack in the
wiring harness to allow it twist out of the way for easy access to the heater
hoses.
3) Remove the windshield motor cover (2 screws and 1 tie wrap). Set aside.

4) On the brake master cylinder vacuum booster, locate and remove the
vacuum check valve and hose assembly. It is a large vacuum line (1/2 inch
or so). It will pull out of the booster with some coaxing. It will help to pump
the brakes several times after the engine has been turned off to drain down
the residual vacuum in the booster.
5) From the passenger side, pull the vacuum hose that was just removed from
the booster across to allow better access to it.

6) Cut the booster hose off squarely approximately 6” from the check valve.

7) Get the vacuum tee and snap it off as required to snugly fit inside the booster
hose. Snap off the ends so that there will be a straight path through the tee to
the check valve (see picture). Use a drill bit to make sure no flashing is
restricting the flow through the tee. Be careful not to snap off the bottom of
the tee. This small nipple will be used as the vacuum port for the heater
bypass valve.

8) Secure the two large vacuum lines with worm clamps (tie wraps are used in
the picture)
 9) Attach the 3’ piece of 1/8 vacuum hose to the small barb remaining on the
vacuum tee. Secure this line with a small tie-wrap.
10) Thread the large vacuum hose back to the driver’s side making sure not to
damage or pull-off the small vacuum line. Push the check valve back into the
brake master cylinder booster completely. Wetting the white plastic a bit
makes it easier to reinsert. You have now completed the vacuum source
plumbing.

End Section 1
Section 2 – Installing the Bypass Valve in the Heater Circuit
Next will be the cutting of the heater hoses and the installation of the by-pass
valve. You can either drain the coolant down to minimize the amount of coolant
lost when the lines are cut or you can try and work quickly…..having tried to
work quickly, I would highly advise that the coolant be drained down first
(maybe 2-3 quarts). However, I’m not sure if draining the system will actually
drain the lines that will be cut….as I stated, I went the other way. Regardless,
use an old bath towel to catch all you can (also a good way to keep parts from
dropping all the way down into the frame). Whatever fluid leaks into the frame
will stink for awhile…rinsing would probably help.

Here’s the finished installation of the valve. The following steps will help you get
there. The EGR vacuum switch can be seen in the foreground (right by my
finger). Red arrows are normal flow, blue arrows indicate bypass flow.
1) Remove the large corrugated vent hose pulling it from the vent manifold at
the top and the Heating/AC unit at the bottom. It is a slip fit, no clamps. Set
it aside.
2) Look at the hose layout that feeds the heater core. The hot water flows from
the passenger side and out through the driver’s side.
3) Hold the valve up to the heater hoses and mark the hoses with a sharpie
where they will be cut. Keep in mind that the large corrugated vent hose will
be refitted, so the valve needs to be as far away from it as possible (keep it as
far left as practical).

4) Cut the hoses and trial fit the valve without clamps. Be aware of the arrow
on the valve that indicates the required flow direction. The inlet nipple
should be on the upper right. Some section of the hoses (1” or so) will likely
have to be removed to accommodate the width of the valve. Make sure that
the hoses are fit to the proper nipple. The input hose (the top right hose in
the picture) comes from the passenger side. The output hose (bottom right)
goes to the driver side for water return. The upper left hose goes to the
heater core nipple nearest the front of the car. The bottom left hose goes to
the rear heater core nipple.

5) Once satisfied with the fit, remove the valve. Cut a 6” section of 1/8” vacuum
hose and attach it to the nipple on the bypass valve vacuum pot. Secure it
with a small tie-wrap if possible.

6) Reinstall the vent hose

7) Install the bypass valve tightening all clamps. Install and tighten one hose at
a time to avoid obscuring the bottom hoses so that the clamps can’t be
tightened. Take one last look at the valve to make sure the right hoses are on
the right nipples. Make sure the action of the valve will not foul against the
vent hose.

8) Wire the EGR vacuum valve with two wires. The pins in this EGR valve
require either a GM connector or push-on pins. I fortunately had the right
female pin connectors for the job, so it was not a big problem. Push-on
connectors can be made by carefully crimping two butt connectors to make a
tight fit when the slide down onto the posts. This can be tedious, but
effective. There are probably better ways to make this connection or a
different switch with spade connectors is probably out there, but this is what
I used. Please send me an email if you find an easier vacuum switch to work
with and I will update these instructions. One of these conductors will go
directly to ground (2 ft black wire) and the other conductor will be used to
attach to the switch inside the cockpit, so leave the required slack. Install a
tie wrap around the EGR valve to make a strain relief for the wires (so they
won’t be pulled off easily).
 9) Tie wrap the EGR valve to the wiring harness so that the 6” vacuum hose
from the valve can be slipped onto the vacuum nipple next to the foam filter
on the EGR valve. Secure the hose with a small tie wrap. Arrows indicate
foam filter and vacuum nipple.

10) Cut the 1/8” vacuum hose installed on the brake booster tee to the right
length to allow attachment to the remaining EGR switch nipple. Secure the
hose to the nipple with a small tie wrap. Use additional tie wraps as necessary
to stabilize all the vacuum hoses and EGR valve.

Installation of the valve and EGR vacuum switch is now complete.

End Section 2
Section 3 – Making the Electrical Connections and Final Reassembly

Electric Switch Installation:

1) Terminate the black wire from the EGR valve to ground. There is a good
ground on the windshield wiper motor connector that is suitable (black wire).
1) Find a suitable location in the cockpit for the switch. Here’s my spot

2) Find the wiring harness rubber grommet where the harness goes into the
cockpit (red arrow) and push the remaining wire through the grommet (you
may have to punch a hole in the grommet, then push the wire through)into
the cockpit area. Terminate it to one side of the switch. Be careful not to
damage the harness. I went through beside the harness in the fold of the
grommet. The grommet will be easy to find if you have the wiper motor
cover removed (the cover is in place in this picture).

1
3) Wire the remaining switch terminal to a switched 12VDC source using the
ten amp fuse in line for protection. Secure all wires with tie wraps. I used
this piggyback type to keep the same type of fuse that the car uses already. I
got my power from the fuse connector tie wrapped above the passenger foot
well. Not all the fuses in this connector have switched power, be sure to
check.

4) Refill the cooling system with appropriate coolant (adding the Water Wetter
if purchased), start the engine and carefully check for leaks. Use the switch
to make sure the bypass valve is actuating when the switch is on. Check for
leaks in both positions. Note: the valve only operates with the engine
running (requires engine vacuum).

5) Bleed the cooling system per Lotus instruction (there are multiple bleed
points):

To refill the system:

1 Refit the hoses to the feed and return pipes (if removed) and close the cylinder
block drain tap.

2. Remove the right hand front wheelarch liner and open the air bleed plug on the
radiator outlet hose. From within the engine bay, open the air bleed plug in the
heater return hose at the left hand rear of the engine bay.

3. Fill with the recommended coolant mix via the header tank and close the bleed
plugs when a steady stream of coolant is expelled.

4. Start the engine and allow to idle, and periodically open the bleed plugs to allow
any trapped air to be expunged. Top up the header tank when necessary, and fit
the pressure cap when required to prevent overflow. When the cooling fans have
cut in and then out, stop the engine and allow to cool. Recheck coolant level when
fully cold.

6) With engine running loosen inlet heater hose enough to allow fluid to trickle
out a bit to to make sure no bubble is at the valve. Retighten. Open the two
bleed screws one last time and allow fluid to trickle out.
7) Check again carefully for leaks.

2
 8) Refit the wiper motor cover, fuse box, grill and cowls
9) Test Drive

I sincerely hope this works as well for you as it does for me. While my AC is not
frigid, it was great improvement. Now I can at least drive the car in the summer
without sweating.

If we could just get some of the heat out of those side sills where the radiator pipes
are routed……