2004 Toyota Corolla EVAP Leak Diagnosis Guide

August 2016

Introduction
After almost a year-long battle, I am finally claiming victory at finding a small EVAP leak in my
2004 Toyota Corolla S (DTCs P0441, P0442, P0446, P0456). I am writing this guide to help
those with a similar problem who really want to do it themselves and avoid having to take their
cars to the shop. Turns out that my charcoal canister was faulty, but it certainly wasn’t apparent
at all!
Summary
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0441, P0442, P0446 and/or P0456 indicate that there is a
leak in the Evaporative Emissions System (EVAP). One leak could spawn multiple codes, so the
indication of four DTCs doesn’t necessarily indicate that there are four leaks.
The EVAP is the system on the vehicle that captures the vapors from evaporating gasoline in the
gas tank and redirects them to the engine for reburning so that the gas vapors aren’t just expelled
into the atmosphere.
P0442 indicates a very small leak (0.2”) has been detected, while P0446 indicates a large leak
(0.4”) has been detected. (The car doesn’t actually measure the size of the leak but estimates it
based on the pressure tests it performs.)
Tip: The most common cause for this error is a gas cap that wasn’t put back on correctly.
However, if the gas cap is not the issue, I have since learned that in the majority of cases (mine
included), the trouble lies in a problem with one of the EVAP valves (Purge, Canister Close
and/or Fuel Pressure Switching valve) or with the Charcoal Canister.
The car’s computer tests the EVAP periodically (perhaps almost every time it’s driven). To
minimize false-positive alerts, the Check Engine Light (CEL) only comes on after the computer
detects the same problem after testing the system a second time. After the CEL is on, the
computer will continue to test the system. Unless the light is turned off manually, the light will
continue to stay on even after the repair is made until the computer doesn’t detect a problem after
three subsequent tests. That’s why if you simply had a loose gas cap and retightened it correctly,
the light will not go off immediately but rather perhaps up to a few days later.

Component Locations
 Purge Valve (a.k.a., EVAP Valve) and Canister Close Valve – Located under the hood,
on the driver’s side next to the air filter housing. You will see two valves in the same
location. The valve on top is the purge valve; the one below it is the Canister Close
Valve. (The CCV is attached to a metal bar about ¾”x3”).
EVAP Valve (top arrow) and CCV Valve (lower arrow) looking down on the engine from the
driver’s side near the air filter housing

 Pressure Switching Valve (a.k.a., Fuel Pressure Switching Valve) – Part of the Charcoal
Canister unit and located to one side of the canister.

Fuel Pressure Valve (attached to Charcoal Canister)

 Charcoal Canister – Located in the undercarriage, on the driver’s side, below the trunk
area. It is a black plastic box measuring about 12”x6”x 3”.
  Fuel Pressure Sensor – Located in the fuel pump assembly, which is under the rear seat
cushion in the middle of the backseat. You will have to remove the rear seat cushion and
pry off the round fuel pump cover to access the fuel pressure sensor. Then there is a
yellow plastic clip that secures the sensor in place. Tip: The 2004 Corolla cover is just
sealed with a sticky substance; the 2005 Corolla’s cover is screwed on. Also, be careful
handling the small clip holding the sensor in place as it can easily slip out of your hand
and get lost in the vehicle well!
 ECM (Engine Control Module) - underneath the glove compartment. Simply remove the
glove compartment door (it just snaps off the two lower hinges) to access the ECM.

Evaluation Steps
So, all the diagnostic trouble codes listed above relate to a problem with the evaporative
emission system, either an actual leak or faulty equipment causing a suspected leak.
Here is a laundry list of trouble spots that may cause the problem (not necessarily exhaustive or
in any particular order of likelihood):
 Gas cap (loose, broken, missing or incorrect cap)
 Corroded filler neck (Toyota issued a TSB for this problem)
 EVAP system hoses (leaks, incorrectly installed, clogged, etc.)
 Canister Close Valve
 EVAP Valve
 Charcoal Canister Pressure Switching Valve
 Wiring problem (e.g., a short or open circuit) in EVAP components
 ECM
 Charcoal Canister
 Fuel Pressure Sensor
 Fuel Tank
During my testing, I experienced numerous false positives, swapping out parts that were, in
reality, not faulty.
With my DTC codes in hand, I went to the local library to look up detailed diagnostic procedures
for the codes using AllData.com. I believe the AllData information mimics the repair procedures
from the manufacturer.
The test procedures for each of the different DTCs shown were similar, so as best I could, I went
through all of the diagnostic steps for P0442 hoping for something easy like one of the vacuum-
switching valves being bad.
AllData provides instructions for those having specialized equipment (e.g., a scan tool that can
read freeze-frame data, issue commands, etc.) and for those without specialized equipment. I
was in the latter camp.
The diagnostic procedures have you check the:
 Fuel cap (installed correctly, is the correct type, is not damaged)
 Fuel filler neck for damage (see TSB)
 Hoses close to the fuel tank for looseness, cracks, damage, modifications
 Fuel tank for damage, leaks
 Vacuum hoses for leaks, cracks or other damage
 Fuel hoses/tubes between fuel tank, charcoal canister (I only checked the rubber hoses
that were relatively accessible and not those under the floor)
 EVAP valve (Purge valve, Canister Close Valve, Fuel Pressure Switching Valve) hoses
 Charcoal canister for damage. Tip: Other resources I found say that if you see small
charcoal pellets coming out of the charcoal canister, or hear pellets rattling around when
you shake the canister, the canister is bad. The canister also has two tubes that use
rubber O-rings to seal the connections. Worn out or brittle O-rings could cause a leak.
 Voltage to the ECM. Tip: Some electrical tests are conducted with the wire connector
disconnected from the ECM, while others are tested with the connector attached to the
ECM as normal. Follow the diagrams, and only disconnect the connector if told to do
so!
Some of the procedures require testing of the Engine Control Module (ECM).
 The Toyota Corolla’s ECM has four wire connectors labeled E3, E4, E5 and E6. Each
wire connector has between 20-35 individual wires labeled sequentially. So, a
designation of E3-28 means wire #28 on the E3 wire connector. Note: Since the ECM is
installed upside down in the car, E3 is on the far right side, and E6 is on the far left –
don’t get them mixed up!
o Tip: The diagrams of the terminals pinouts is in very small print on the AllData
diagnostic instructions. There is a separate AllData page that provides more
details of each wire connector. Each pin in each wire connector has a unique
identification number, typically from 1 to 35 or so. So for example, E3-28 refers
to the E3 connector, pin number 28. In addition to the location of the pin, the
wire connector detail page also will show the wire color, description and other
useful diagnostic information.
 Verify correct voltage is going to the ECM by testing the voltage between E3-18 and E3-
28. (Note: E3-28 is simply the ground terminal.) You will be testing for voltage without
removing the wire connectors for this test, so back probe the wire connectors at the
proper location. You should get a reading of 4.5 to 5.5VDC. If not, then the ECM may
be bad.
 Tip: The connector holes are very small and probably too small for typical multimeter
test probes. I ended up getting a few ordinary safety pins, poking the needle side into the
connector then touching the multimeter test probe to the other end of the safety pin. But
be careful since you have to ensure you’re getting a solid connection between the needle
and the connector as well as from the probe to the safety pin. A loose connection can
cause an unreliable reading!
  Test vacuum pressure sensor. Apply 1.18 in.Hg to sensor. Since my Mityvac only
provides measurements in psi, I had to convert in.Hg to psi (1psi is roughly 2 in.Hg), so
very low pressure. With a Mityvac, it’s hard to accurately deliver that low of pressure, so
since the voltage measure did fluctuate as I changed the pressure, I just assumed the
sensor was functioning. Tip: Be careful handling the small clip holding the sensor in
place as it can easily slip out of your hand and get lost in the vehicle well!
 Check wiring from ECM to wire harness for each of the three VSVs for correct voltage
and resistance.
 Test VSVs for operation. The procedures have you make connections at the ECM to test
operation of the VSVs. Alternatively, you can also remove each VSV and apply 12VDC
(battery power) to the terminals to determine whether the VSV operates.
o Purge Valve is normally closed (i.e., with no voltage applied, no air should pass
through the valve and vice versa.
o Tip: When I did more research in testing valves, one article I found (see:
“Finding the Little Ones” document later referenced) recommended opening and
closing the valve several times because they may stick after the first few times. I
believe the reason behind testing the valve several times is because valves are
controlled by the ECM using Pulse Width Modulation, a technique that sends
power to the valve to open/close it using precise time-controlled durations – it is
not simply just turning it on then off.

During my initial test, I thought I found my purge valve would not open when
applying power after a few consecutive times. I connected each of the two
terminals to my car’s battery using alligator clips. I would apply voltage for a
second, then remove to voltage to see whether the value opened then closed
Oftentimes, after trying it a dozen times of so, I found that my valve didn’t
open/close when it should have, so I thought my valve was bad. I obtained a
replacement valve but it performed the same way -false positive #1.
Tip: For some reason the AllData test procedure for the CCV (which I understand comes
directly from Toyota) is WRONG! It says that the CCV should not allow air to pass when
energized. Again, the CCV is normally open, so a properly functioning CCV should allow air to
pass when at rest and NOT allow air to pass when energized. This was another false positive
(#2) that took me some effort to figure out!
 Another web site said you also need to apply vacuum to the valve when testing it to make
sure it folds vacuum and doesn’t leak. That seemed to make sense, since it appeared that
the EVAP test typically takes 20-30 minutes to fully complete. So if the valve doesn’t
hold pressure during the test, that could cause the leak. My valve was intermittent –
sometimes it held full vacuum for 5 minutes; other times I would see vacuum slowly
begin to drop after a minute. Also, a technician told me that one end of the valve isn’t
supposed to be able to hold vacuum at all and should lose vacuum immediately, whereas
the other end of the same valve should be able to hold vacuum. I obtained another valve,
only to find it operated in a similar fashion – false positive #3.
 The CCV is normally open. I applied 12VDC to the valve terminals to close it, then
placed a vacuum on one end of the value. With voltage still applied, the value
successfully held the vacuum. I then remove voltage, but the valve didn’t open for up to
a minute later. I thought for sure this was an indication of a bad valve and got a
replacement, but the replacement valve also operated similarly –false positive #4.
 Since all the electrical and valve tests seemed to pass and I still could not find the
problem, I decided that I needed to do a smoke test, but again, I didn’t want to have to
take it to a shop to have it done. Voila, youtube had many examples of backyard
mechanics rigging up homemade smoke machines. The major risk of homemade smoke
machines is that they push hot, smoky air into the fuel tank – not something you want to
do on a regular basis. Repair shop machines probably use an inert gas, which is much
safer. I found instructions to make a homemade smoke machine using parts I either
already had or could obtain inexpensively and built my own smoke machine using a 5-
gallon plastic bucket with lid, a compressor with an air regulator, some hose, a tin can
(like a soup can), charcoal briquettes and some baby oil. I drilled a small ¼” hole near the
bottom of the side of the bucket and another at the top in the lid. I took some of the hose
to connect the compressor to the regulator then to the hole at the bottom of the bucket. I
took some additional hose to connect to the hole in the lid to the EVAP hose in the car (I
just connected it where the green EVAP test port is located). To make the smoke, I
placed the charcoal briquettes in the tin can and lit them until they got hot, then doused
them with baby oil. I placed the tin can inside the bucket and closed the lid. You are only
supposed to push a very low pressure (1psi) through the EVAP system, so just gradually
opened the regulator so that a visible but gentle stream of smoke is produced out of the
hose. The smoke coming out of my bucket was strong, but when I pushed it through my
EVAP system, it seemed to lose strength. Even with the gas cap off, I couldn’t see any
smoke coming through, so I had to increase the pressure modestly until I started to see
smoke.
 Found a leak at a connector to the charcoal canister. Fixed and hoped the problem was
resolved, but check engine light came back on. I probably should have done another
smoke test to check for more leaks, but I didn’t think about it and didn’t want to risk
performing another smoke test.
 Having not had any success after replacing the EVAP and CCV valves, I took a shot at
replacing the charcoal canister, even though I found nothing wrong with the one I had. I
hate replacing parts without an indication that something is wrong, but I was frustrated
enough to try it. Tip: Removing the canister can be tricky, especially since two of the
hoses connecting to the canister have unusual connectors that need to be maneuvered in
a particular way to be removed. But once removed, taking out the rest of the canister is
pretty straight forward.
 After replacing the canister and about 5 days of driving, the CEL turned off on its own,
so the canister turned out to be the problem! I took a closer look at my bad canister, but
again I could not visually see anything apparently wrong with it.
 Other Tips:
 I have read that the pressure test isn’t performed until the engine is at normal operating
temperature. This seemed to be the case for me, since my Check Engine Light would
only illuminate after the engine was warm.
 Other resources said that the pressure test is only performed when the fuel tank is
between ¼ to ¾ full. In my experience, however, I have seen the Check Engine Light
illuminate with the problem even with the tank near empty. My check engine light also
turned off after the repair was made with the tank less than ¼ full.
Good luck. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at darrellmak@yahoo.com

Finally, if all else fails, here’s a list of other possible trouble spots to check that I’ve collected
from Internet research:
P0456
- Missing or loose fuel cap
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister or fuel tank leaks
- Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system hose leaking
- Fuel tank leaking
http://www.helpforcars.net/obd_codes/p0456.html#ixzz3qLbUOYYZ

P0442
- Missing or loose fuel cap
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
- EVAP system hose leaking
- Fuel tank leaking
http://www.engine-codes.com/p0442.html#ixzz3qLgs2HFK

Causes behind the P0442 code

Similarly, there is a list of instances that may result into the p0442 error code. Common
problems that generate p0442 may be a damaged or broken gas cap, faulty fuel tank, broken fuel
tank seal, misplaced valve, pressure sensor malfunction, flawed leak mechanism system, or any
other defective or damaged components in the leak detection system or EVAP systems.
http://www.p0442.com/p0442/

Causes
A code P0442 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:
* A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
* A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
* A small leak/hole in a fuel vapor hose/tube
* Other small leak in EVAP system
* Faulty vent o-ring seal
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4734501-fix_diagnostic_code_p0442

P0442 It can also be caused by dirt or spider webs blocking the complete sealing of the purge or
vent solenoids.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p0442/

- Finally I researched on the web and found the 4Runner has issues with the fuel tank check
valve (also called overfill valve) which often leaks by.
-- Bought the check valve [p/n: valve 77390-35010,$64.88] and gasket 77177-33010 ($14.16)]
from a local Toyota dealer, dropped the fuel tank myself, replaced the parts, then confirmed the
parts fixed code P0442 with a scanned Evap test result after 1 week. The gas smell is also gone.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/180062-p0442-w-fuel-smell-rear-4runner-print.html

Check for the following conditions:

A loose, missing, damaged, or improperly installed fuel cap.

Missing or damaged O-rings at EVAP canister fuel vapor and purge line fittings.
A cracked or punctured EVAP canister.
A damaged or disconnected source vacuum line, EVAP purge line, vent hose or fuel tank vapor
line.
Incorrectly routed or defective EVAP system vacuum and vapor lines.
A poor connection at the VCM: Inspect the harness connectors for the following conditions:
Backed out terminals.
Improper mating.
Broken locks.
Improperly formed or damaged terminals.
A poor terminal to wire connection.
A damaged harness: Inspect the wiring harness to the EVAP vent solenoid EVAP purge solenoid
and the fuel tank pressure sensor for an intermittent open or short circuit.
A missing or damaged weather-pack on the EVAP Purge Solenoid connector.
http://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/dtc-p0442.148608/

Defective fuel caps and damaged fuel tank filler necks

A tear or hole in the carbon canister or hoses in the EVAP system
A damaged seam in the carbon canister
Defective fuel tank sending unit seals and gaskets
Damaged EVAP vent and purge valves
Damaged fuel tank and fuel tank pressure sensor
A broken leak detection pump
Hardened O-rings
Loose, worn clamps in the EVAP system
http://www.p0442.com/

 Verify that the purge VSV is connected to manifold vacuum on one side and the other
port goes to the hose with the green service port installed. If purge and canister closed
valve hoses are swapped, the code will set.
 Restricted EVAP vacuum line(s) or misrouted vacuum hoses
www.idetifix.com

If you first get a P0442 or P0456 then a while later get a P0455 it is a sign a hose is going bad.
Could also mean a piece of charcoal from the vapor canister is stuck in a line. Blowing the lines
out can fix it.
http://donsnotes.com/home_garden/auto/dtc/evap.html

Finally, if everything else checks out, a bad fuel pump O-ring could leak, causing these exact
same symptoms. Of course, you’d have to drop the tank and remove the pump to check for that.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p0442-p0456/

 After- market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required
specifications
Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses/tubes
Canister vent solenoid stays partially open on closed command
Damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed fuel filler cap
Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP system components
EVAP system component seals leaking (EVAP canister purge valve, fuel tank
pressure sensor, canister vent solenoid, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel
vapor vent valve assembly)
http://www.bullittarchive.com/7000/7027/DTC_Codes/P0400_P0499/P0442.htm

“Finding the Little Ones” - It is important to remember to activate the purge and vent solenoids
multiple times. In many cases after the fifth or sixth time, the valve sticks, causing the EVAP
leak problem you’ve been trying to find with smoke alone.
http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/undercar-service-repair/finding-little-ones?page=0,2
The most common problem with the purge valve is when it sticks or does not close fully.
http://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html

The Evaporative system may have problems with the vapor canister releasing charcoal pellets
that plug the vent valve. Typically a Code P0441, P0442 and P0446 will be set. The key code is
the P0446 which is a vent valve electrical failure. The proper repair is to replace the entire
canister with all the valves as a unit.
http://repairpal.com/replace-evap-canister-to-correct-evap-system-problems-357

Specifically, P0446 indicates an Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system vent control
circuit malfunction. Typically, this indicates a faulty vent valve, a bad control circuit for that
valve, or a blockage in the vent valve. In all cases, it clearly shows the mechanic that a check of
the EVAP vent valve is in order.
http://parts.olathetoyota.com/p0446-code-toyota.

Test the solenoids by applying vacuum from a hand-held pump. If the valve is normally closed, it
should hold vacuum. Apply 12volts and ground to the terminals and see if it opens. Then remove
the voltage and apply the vacuum again. Do the same testing procedure for the canister closed
valve with opposite results.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/p0446-toyota-evap-vent-solenoid/

Tech Update: A to VSV…Troubleshooting Toyota/Lelxus EVAP Systems

http://www.import-car.com/tech-update-a-to-vsv-troubleshooting-toyota-lelxus-evap-systems/

Check for the following conditions:

A loose, missing, damaged, or improperly installed fuel cap.

Missing or damaged O-rings at EVAP canister fuel vapor and purge line fittings.
A cracked or punctured EVAP canister.
A damaged or disconnected source vacuum line, EVAP purge line, vent hose or fuel tank vapor
line.
Incorrectly routed or defective EVAP system vacuum and vapor lines.
A poor connection at the VCM: Inspect the harness connectors for the following conditions:
Backed out terminals.
Improper mating.
Broken locks.
Improperly formed or damaged terminals.
A poor terminal to wire connection.
A damaged harness: Inspect the wiring harness to the EVAP vent solenoid EVAP purge solenoid
and the fuel tank pressure sensor for an intermittent open or short circuit.
A missing or damaged weather-pack on the EVAP Purge Solenoid connector.
http://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/dtc-p0442.148608/

Toyota Technical Service Bulletin:

EVAP SYSTEM OPERATION
http://www.toyotaparts.metro-
toyota.com/EVAP_SYSTEM_OPERATION_INFORMATION_T-EG005-01.pdf