Learning Module -Dressmaking/ Grade 10

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Drafting the Pattern of a Basic A-Line Skirt

Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern of an A-Line Skirt

1. Follow the procedure of the front Basic Straight Skirt Pattern or trace the sloper for the Front
Basic Straight Skirt and add point N, for an A-line silhouette.

2. For an A-line silhouette, from point L, go out 1 and ½ inches (about 4 cm.) or more
depending on the desired width of the hemline. Mark this point N.

Zipper Allowance, is attached to the center back of a skirt. Make the zipper allowance from the
side edge of the pattern paper, go 1 inch (about 2.5cm.) and make a straight line vertically.

he Back Basic A-Line Skirt

Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern of an A-Line Skirt

Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be
the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson.

Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back Skirt Pattern of an

A-Line Skirt
Item 5 3 1 Score
Lack of two or
Tools were Lack of one tool,
more tools, some
1. Use of complete, some were
were appropriate
Tools appropriate and appropriate and
and not correctly
correctly used. correctly used.
used.
2.Procedure Used the Used the Failed to use the
Correct method. Correct method. correct method.
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Procedures
Procedures Procedures not
Correctly
Partly followed. followed.
followed.
All pattern
details were Some pattern All pattern details
correctly details were were not
3. Pattern
measured and inaccurately Drafted correctly
accurately drafted. and accurately.
drafted.
Finished the Finished the
Finished the
4. Speed pattern ahead pattern more than
pattern on time.
of time. the allotted time.
20 points Perfect Score

. The Four-Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing

Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern of a Four Darted Skirt with Waistline
Facing
Waistline
A From the top edge of the pattern
paper, go down 2 inches (5 cm.)
Mark this point A. From point A,
square or extend the line across to
15 inches (38.5cm.). This will serve
as the waistline level.

B From point A, get ¼ of the waistline

measurement by folding the tape
measure into four parts. Mark this
point B.

C From point B, go out 2 inches

(5cm.).
Mark this point C. This allowance
will make up for the two dart
allowances that will be added or
marked on the inside of the pattern.

D From point A, go down ½ of an inch

(1.3 cm.). Mark this point D.
D-C Connect point D to point C with a
curve ruler. This adjustment on the
waistline will give way to the
roundness of the stomach.

Dart Lines

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E From point A, get 1/8 of the waistline measurement, then mark this
point E. Point E will be the center of first dart.
F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the start of the first dart
point. Mark this point F.
G From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) for the end of the first dart
point. Mark this point G.
H From point E, go down 5 and ½ inches (14cm.). Mark this point H.
This will be the length of the first dart lines. Connect point H, to points
E, F, G with straight lines. This will serve as the first dart lines.
I From point G, go out 1 inch (2.6 cm.) for the start of the second dart.
Mark this point I.
J From point I, go out ½ of an inch (2.6cm.) for the center of the second
dart. Mark this point J.
K From point J, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the end of the second
dart. Mark this point K.
L From point J, go down 4 and ½ inches (11.5cm.). Mark this point L.
This will be the length of the second dart lines. Connect point L, to
points I, J, K with straight lines. This will serve as the second dart
lines.

Lower Hip Line

To get the lower hip line, lay the tape measure from point A down to
the lower hip level measurement. Mark this point M. Square or extend
the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This will serve as your lower
hip level.
From point M, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement by folding the tape
measure into 4 parts. Mark this point N.
C-N Connect point C to point N with a curve ruler.
Length of the Skirt.
From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this
point O. From point O, square or extend the line across to 15 inches
(38.5cm.). This will serve as the hemline level.
From point O, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape
measure into 4 parts. Mark this point P.
From point O, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point Q. This
hemline adjustment is a must for the front skirt.
Now that you have the front pattern of a skirt with four darts. Review
your measurements. If everything is all right, then you may cut along
point D to C to N to P and to Q.

Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern of a Four-Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing

The Back Skirt Pattern of a Four-Dated Skirt with Waistline Facing

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Generally, the zipper allowance is attached on the center back of the skirt. Thus, from the edge
of the pattern paper, go in 1 inch (2.5cm.) and make a straight line vertically. This will serve as your zipper
allowance.
Waistline.
A From the top edge of the pattern paper on the zipper allowance line, go down 2
inches (5cm.). Mark this point A. From point A, square or extend the line across to
15 inches (38.5 cm.). This will serve as the waistline level.
B From point A, get ¼ of the waistline measurement. Mark this point B.
C From point B, go out 2 inches (5cm.). Mark this point C. This allowance will make
up for dart allowances that will be added or marked inside the pattern.
D From point A, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point D.
C-D Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This adjustment is done on the back
skirt pattern to raise the skirt following the “hollowness” on the upper center of the
hip area.
Dart Lines
E From point A, get 1/8 of the waistline measurement. Mark this point E. Point E will
be the center of the dart allowance.
F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the start of the first dart. Mark this
point F.
G From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the end of the first dart. Mark this
point G.
H From point E, square down to 6 inches (15.5cm.). Mark this point H. This will be
the length of the first dart. Connect point H to points E, F, G, with straight lines.
This will serve as the first dart lines.
I From point G, go out 1 inch (2.5cm.) for the start of the second dart. Mark this
point I.
J From point I, go out ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) for the center of the second dart. Mark
this point J.
K From point J, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm. for the end of the second dart. Mark this
point K.
L From point J, square down to 5 inches (13.5cm.). Mark this point L. This will be
the length of the second dart. Connect point I, J, K with straight lines. This will
serve as the second dart lines.
Lower Hip Line.
M To get the lower hip level, lay the tape measure from point A to the lower hip level
measurement. Mark this point M. Square or extend the line across to 15v inches
(38.5cm.) This will serve as the lower hip level.
N From point M, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement by folding the tape measure
into 4 parts. Mark this point N.
C-N Connect point C to point N with a curve ruler.
Length of Skirt.
O From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this point O. From
point O, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This line will
serve as the hemline level.
P From point O, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape measure
into 4 equal parts. Mark this point P.
N-P Connect point N to P with a straight line.
Now that you have the back pattern of a four-darted skirt. Review the
measurements. Cut along points D, C, N, P, to O (include zipper allowance).
Draft Pattern for the Waistline Facing
1. Cut the front and back skirt on the sewing line.
Include the allowance at the back of skirt zipper.

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2. In the dart lines of the front and back skirt to close the darts. This will
naturally alter the curve of the waistline.

3. Following the altered curve of the waistline due to the closing or pinning
of the dart lines, go down 3 inches (7.5cm.) from the center front and
center back of the waistline to the side seam of the waistline, and mark
with broken lines. This will be the shape of the skirt facing without
allowance.

4. Get a small piece of pattern paper and pin the pattern paper under the
front and back skirt pattern on the facing area. Trace the outline of the
facing on the pattern paper. After tracing, remove all the pins.

5. Cut the outline of the waistline facing for the front and the back skirt.
Label front and back facing.

Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be
the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson.

Rubrics in Drafting the Front, Back and Waistline Facing of

a Four-Darted Skirt
Item 5 3 1 Score
Lack of one Lack of two or
Tools were
tool, some more tools, some
1. Use of complete,
were appropriate were appropriate
Tools appropriate and
and correctly and not correctly
correctly used.
used. used.
2.Procedure Used the Used the Failed to use the
Correct method. Correct method. correct method.
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Procedures
Procedures Procedures not
Correctly
Partly followed. followed.
followed.
All pattern
details were Some pattern All pattern details
correctly details were were not
3. Pattern
measured and inaccurately Drafted correctly
accurately drafted. and accurately.
drafted.
Finished the Finished the
Finished the
4. Speed pattern ahead pattern more than
pattern on time.
of time. the allotted time.
20 points Perfect Score

4. The Gathered Skirt

Drafting the Pattern of Front Gathered Skirt

From the edge of the pattern paper, go down 2 inches (5cm.) which will be the waistline
level. Ark this Y1. Square or extend the line across to 30 inches (76cm.) Get ¼ of the waist
measurement from point Y1. Mark the end of ¼ of the waistline measurement point Z1.
Get the length of the skirt. Mark this Y2, and on this level, get 1/3 of the waist
measurement. Mark this point Z2.
Make a straight line from Z1 to Z2. This will be where the Front Basic Straight Pattern will
be drafted or its sloper wil be pinned and traced. Disregard the dart lines. The silhouette of
the gathered skirt may be straight or A-line.
From point K, extend the hemline to point L with a straight line.
If an A-line silhouette is desired, go out 1 and ½ inches (4cm.) or more. Mark this point N.
Connect point N to the area of the hip with a straight line where the line will be smoothest.

Drafting the Pattern of Back Gathered Skirt

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Waist which is gathered doesn’t need zipper because the waist will stretch enough to
pass it on hip part.
If an A-line silhouette is desired, go out 1 and ½ inches (4 cm.) or more. Mark this point
M.
Connect point M to the area of the hip where the line connection will be smoothest.

Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be
the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson.

Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back Gathered Skirt

Item 5 3 1 Score
Lack of one Lack of two or
Tools were
tool, some more tools, some
1. Use of complete,
were appropriate were appropriate
Tools appropriate and
and correctly and not correctly
correctly used.
used. used.
Used the
Used the Failed to use the
Correct method.
Correct method. correct method.
2.Procedure Procedures
Procedures Procedures not
Correctly
Partly followed. followed.
followed.
All pattern
details were Some pattern All pattern details
correctly details were were not
3. Pattern
measured and inaccurately Drafted correctly
accurately drafted. and accurately.
drafted.
Finished the Finished the
Finished the
4. Speed pattern ahead pattern more than
pattern on time.
of time. the allotted time.
20 points Perfect Score
5. The All Around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke

The front and the back pattern have the same procedure. The zipper may be
placed on the side of the skirt.

Drafting the Pattern of an All Around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke

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Get two pattern papers and fold each in the middle.Mark one front and the other
back. Pin the basic straight skirt pattern or sloper on the center fold of the paper.
Trace the basic sloper with the dart lines.DO the same procedure on the other
pattern paper.
Cut along the sewing lines.
Trace the dart oin the other side of the fold pattern.
Draw a line on the desired yoke level or 2 inches (5 cm.) above the lower hip
level. Mark this line as X.
Go up ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) from point X, and mark Y. Trace the new markings
on the other side of the fold pattern.
From point X, make a smooth vanishing line towards the center of the yoke.
Trace new marking on the other side of the fold of the pattern.
Cut out darkened part, and separate the yoke from pleated part of the skirt.

Unfold the pattern and draw lines with equal distances to indicate the width of
the pleats. Then cut off the yoke removing the vanishing lines from point Y and
point X. Number the pleats.
Or, unfold the pattern and cut off the yoke removing vanishing lines from point Y
and point X. Then fold the lower skirt on the center and start folding the pattern
paper for the pleats. Continue to fold until you get the desired width of the pleats.
Unfold and draw straight lines along the folds indicating the pleats. Then number
the pleats.
Cut along the pleat lines.

Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the
indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson

Rubrics in Drafting the Pattern of an All-Around Pleated

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Skirt with Hip Yoke

Item 5 3 1 Score
Lack of two or
Tools were Lack of one
more tools, some
1. Use of complete, tool, some were
were appropriate
Tools appropriate and appropriate and
and not correctly
correctly used. correctly used.
used.
Used the
Used the Failed to use the
Correct method.
Correct method. correct method.
2.Procedure Procedures
Procedures Procedures not
Correctly
Partly followed. followed.
followed.
All pattern
details were Some pattern All pattern details
correctly details were were not
3. Pattern
measured and inaccurately Drafted correctly
accurately drafted. and accurately.
drafted.
Finished the Finished the
Finished the
4. Speed pattern ahead pattern more than
pattern on time.
of time. the allotted time.
20 points Perfect Score

Altering the basic/block pattern

Adjustments to the fit of a garment must be made before the pattern is cut
out. Once you cut the pieces out of the fabric, it is too late to add extra inches that you
may need. If the garment is too large, the extra effort in redoing your work to make the
garment fit is tedious and discouraging.

General Principles for Pattern Alterations

According to Ines Alcantara de Guzman, in her module in Dressmaking I, there are

four principles applied to all pattern alterations:
1. Preserve pattern outline whenever possible.
2. Preserve the original grainline whenever possible.
3. Avoid changes that disturb darts or decorations, by making changes between the
dart and outside edge whenever possible.
4. When altering adjoining edges, proportional length must be preserved.

These are best accomplished by using slash and spread, slash and overlap or pleat
method.

1. The Slash and Spread Method

a. Skirt is lengthened between hip and hemline

b. Position line for increasing width of waist, hip and hemline
c. Alterations of the waistline must be made on both bodice and skirt
2. The Slash and Overlap or Pleat Method

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6. Length of skirt is reduced in between hips and hemline

7. Position line for reduction in width of waist, hip and hemline
8.
Lengthening or Shortening Skirts
1. To lengthen the fitted skirt
a. Starting below the hip, slash all sections of the skirt through and at right angles to the
grainline.
b. Spread the desired amount keeping grainline straight (a to b in the figure below)

c. Increase width below the spread by extending cutting lines to conform to slant of the
upper section on both sides of the pattern (a to c, b to d), and adjust seam lines to
parallel.
d. Slash the pattern and spread putting the pieces of paper in between. Pin all sides.

e. When the enlargement extends only partially through the pattern section,
slash, spread and pin to heavy paper.
f. If the slash crosses the grainline, be sure this grainline is kept straight when
pattern is spread.

9. To shorten the fitted skirt

a. Starting below the hipline, fold a pleat, half the desired amount of the skirt
keeping approximately parallel to the waistline (a to b in figure below)
b. Straighten seamline by trimming excess pattern, tapering from a to c and b
to d.

10. To lengthen the flared skirt

a. Slash all sections of the skirt through the grainline, approximately
parallel to the waistline.

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b. Spread the desired amount, keeping grainline straight ( a to b in figure

below)

c. When the grainline is in the center, correct cutting line by adding all
increased widths to both sides of lower section (a to c, b to d)

11. Making a flared skirt from basic skirt

a. Draw a straight line from the hemline to the dart.
b. Slash along the straight line extending it to the waistline leaving 1
centimeter away from the top edge.
c. Spread the piece with the grainline keeping the centerline straight.

d. Insert a piece of paper in between the spread pieces, pin and cut excess.
12. Making a shirred or pleated skirt from the basic pattern:
a. Determine needed allowance for pleated or shirred skirt. For pleated skirt,
number of pleats x depth of pleats.
b. Draw a straight line from the hemline to the dart.
c. Cut from hemline to waistline.
d. Spread the pieces together.
e. Insert the paper. Retrace and cut excess.

Let’s Do it!

Pattern Alterations

Directions: Select at least one method in pattern alterations and alter the
basic/block pattern of classmate’s skirt. Let the teacher check the work.
Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern
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Before cutting out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the item
you are making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. If there are
no more alterations to be made, just trim patterns to your size.
Identify which size to be used for different areas of your body. Use a colored pen and
trace the cutting lines.
Use a sharp pair of scissor in cutting the pattern. If you slip and make a cut where you
shouldn’t have, simply tape it back into place. The important thing is that the shape is retained
and that you can still read the markings. Cut carefully along the cutting lines.
Check for seam allowances. Notice the grain lines. The word “directional” means
moving with the grain. In cutting garment pieces from fabric, look at the pattern piece. You will
notice that by cutting from wide to the narrow part of a piece, you cut with less pull on the grain
of the fabric. This is called directional cutting.
Use long, even stroke about 1 inch from the end of the blades of the shears. If you close
the blades with each stroke, the result cut edge will be choppy and uneven.
As you come to the notches (diamond-shaped marks) on the cutting line, cut them
around away from the pattern.
Trim multi-size pattern pieces. Single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to
shape ; just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue.

What I Can Do

Choose one type of skirt from the different types and draft the basic pattern of it by following the
given body measurement. Observe the step-by-step procedure.

Materials to be used:
1. Pattern paper
2. Pencil
3. Tape measure
4. L-square/ ruler 12”
5. Hip curve

a. Draft the following foundation patterns: a. Front skirt

b. Back skirt
c. Style the foundation patterns according to the chosen style of the
Waistline: 25 inches
2nd hip: 35 inches
Length of dart: 20 inches

Rubrics for Pattern Drafting

Item 5 3 1 Score
Lack of two or
Tools were Lack of one more tools,
1. Use of complete, tool, some were some were
Tools appropriate and appropriate and appropriate and
correctly used. correctly used. not correctly
used.
Used the
Used the Failed to use the
Correct method.
Correct method. correct method.
2.Procedure Procedures
Procedures Procedures not
Correctly
Partly followed. followed.
followed.
All pattern
details were Some pattern All pattern
correctly details were details were not
3. Pattern
measured and inaccurately Drafted correctly
accurately drafted. and accurately.
drafted.
4. Speed Finished the Finished the Finished the
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pattern more
pattern ahead
pattern on time. than the allotted
of time.
time.
20 points Perfect Score

Learning Outcome 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Skirt

Objectives

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

1. Prepare the materials before cutting; and

2. Cut the materials accurately.

Some of the criteria in judging a finished product are: The garment fits perfectly, holds its
shape, and hangs well. This is why there is a need to prepare the fabric first before construction
to have perfect output.

Steps in Preparing the Fabric before cutting it

a. Fold the cloth neatly and soak it in a basin of water overnight.
b. Hang the cloth and let it dry.
c. If the cloth is not smooth when it dries, pressing is necessary.
d. If the cloth gets out of shape, straighten it by stretching it diagonally. Stretch and pull gently
but firmly until the edge and selvages are even when the material is folded in half
lengthwise.

Principles of Laying Out Pattern Pieces on the Fabric

Patterns are laid out on the fabric to determine if the cloth is enough for all the
pattern pieces. The process is known as pattern layout. In this method, lay out all pattern
pieces in various positions on the fabric by trial and error until they all fit on the cloth.
When all pattern pieces have been laid out, pin them securely on the fabric.

Determining the Right and the Wrong Side of the Fabric

Before making a layout, determine the right side and the wrong side of the fabric. Fabric
with printed designs is easy to identify but difficult for fabrics with plain colors because they are
reversible. Tips to help you determine the right and the wrong side of the fabric:
The selvage or the finished edge of the fabric is smoother on the right side.
Loose thread ends can be found on the wrong side of the fabric.
Fabrics are folded right side in.
Prints are clearer and brighter on the right side.

Four Kinds of Fabric Folds

Deciding what kind of fold to use is based on the width of the fabric and the
design of the garment.

1. Lengthwise centerfold- The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with

selvages together.
2. Crosswise centerfold- The fabric is folded crosswise at the center with the raw
edges together.
3. Off-center lengthwise fold- The fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges
meeting at the center.
4. Off-center crosswise fold- The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges
meeting at the center.

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5.

What I Can Do

Let the students perform on how to fold the fabric correctly. Check
whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while
performing the activity.

Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students

PERFORMANCE LEVEL
Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No
Dimension Points
Satisfactory Improvement Attempt
Earned
(4 pts.) (3 pts.) (2 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.)
Uses tools Uses tools Uses tools
and Uses tools and
and and
equipment equipment
equipment equipment
1. Use of correctly incorrectly
correctly correctly and No
tools and and and
and but less attempt
equipment confidently at confidently less confidently
all most of the confidently
most of the
times times sometimes
time
Manifests
understanding Manifests less
Manifests of understanding
Manifests clear of
very clear understanding the step-by- the step- by-
understanding step No
of the of the step attempt
step- by- procedure
step- by-step but procedure
procedure step sometimes seeking
procedure seeks clarification
2. Application most
clarification
of procedures of the time
Works
Works Works independently
Works
independently independently independently but
with ease and with with with No
confidence at ease and ease and assistance attempt
all confidence confidence from others
times most of the sometimes
time most
of the time
Observes Observes Most of the
safety safety Observes time
3. Safety safety
precautions at precautions precautions not observing No
work habits all safety attempt
most of the sometimes
times time precautions
Task is Task is Task is
completed Task is nearly started but
completed
following the completed not completed
following No
4.Completenes procedures in the following the following the
s of Task procedures in procedures in attempt
the procedures the
activity in the the
project plan project plan
improvement/ project plan
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innovations
Work Work
Work completed completed
5. Time Work completed No
completed ___(mins./ ___(mins./
management ahead of time within hours/d hours/d attempt
allotted time ays) beyond ays) beyond
TOTAL POINTS

Laying Out Pattern Pieces

Depending on the fabric’s width, be sure to fold the fabric on grain. Be sure to
put in and mark the necessary allowances on all parts of the garment. Mark the
allowances with tailor’s chalk or with colored pencil. These allowances are represented
by broken lines in the illustrations. Cut along markings of the allowances. The amount of
fabric needed will depend on the width of the fabric and the length and style of the skirt.

Pointers in Laying out Patterns

1. Make a temporary pattern layout especially if the fabric is too small.

2. Determine the right side of the fabric.
3. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise
centerfold.
4. Always make your layout on the wrong side of the fabric. Pattern markings should
not be seen on the right side.
5. Lay out big pattern pieces first. Fit the small pattern pieces in between the large
pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage.
6. Checks that the design and grain line of the pattern correspond to those of the
fabric.
7. Pin the patterns in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the
seam line and along the seam allowance space.

How to Layout Pattern Pieces of the Basic Straight Skirt Pattern on the Fabric

How to Layout Pattern Pieces of a Basic A-Line Skirt on the Fabric

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On a 45-inch width fabric On a 60-inch width Fabric

How to Layout the Pattern of the Four Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing and
Overlap Slit on the Fabric

1. Fold the fabric with two inches (5cm.) jutting out of the under laying fabric.
Layout and pin the patterns of the front and back skirt. The center front of the
front skirt pattern is joined on the fold of the fabric. The center back of the
back skirt is pinned 1 inch (2.5cm.) away from the edge of the upper fabric.
The 1 inch (2.5cm.) allowance is for the fold of the overlap slit.

2. Mark the needed sewing allowances. Mark the desired length of the overlap 6
to 8 inches long (15.5 to 20.5cm.).
3. Cut along the sewing allowances.
4. For the overlap slit, cut excess fabric as shown the illustration above, and just leave
the allowances needed for the overlap slit.
5. Mark the sewing lines.

How to Layout Pattern of a Gathered Skirt on the Fabric

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How to Layout Pattern of an All-around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke on the Fabric

On a 45 or 60 inch width fabric, with a straight or A-line silhouette.

*Refold fabric so that the front yoke may be laid out on the fold of the fabric.

What I Can Do

Let the students perform how to layout properly the fabric. Check whether
the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity.

Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students

PERFORMANCE LEVEL
Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No
Dimension Points
Satisfactory Improvement Attempt
Earned
(4 pts.) (3 pts.) (2 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.)
Uses tools Uses tools Uses tools
and Uses tools and
and and
equipment equipment
equipment equipment
1. Use of correctly incorrectly
correctly correctly and No
tools and and and
and but less attempt
equipment confidently at confidently less confidently
all most of the confidently
most of the
times times sometimes
time
2. Application Manifests Manifests Manifests Manifests less No
very clear
of procedures understanding clear understanding understanding attempt
understanding of of
of the the step-by- the step- by-
step- by-step of the
step- by- step step
procedure step procedure procedure
procedure but seeking
sometimes clarification
seeks most
clarification of the time
62
 Learning Module -Dressmaking/ Grade 10
____________________________________________________________________________

Works
Works Works independently
Works
independently independently independently but
with ease and with with with No
confidence at ease and ease and assistance attempt
all confidence confidence from others
times most of the sometimes
time most
of the time
Observes Observes Most of the
safety safety Observes time
3. Safety safety
precautions at precautions precautions not observing No
work habits all safety attempt
most of the sometimes
times time precautions
Task is
completed Task is Task is
Task is nearly started but
following the completed
completed not completed
following
4.Completenes procedures in the following the following the No
s of Task the procedures in procedures attempt
activity procedures the in
in the the
improvement/ project plan project plan
innovations project plan
Work Work
Work completed completed
5. Time Work completed No
completed ___(mins./ ___(mins./
management ahead of time within hours/d hours/d attempt
allotted time ays) beyond ays) beyond
TOTAL POINTS

What is It
Cutting the Fabric

After the pattern pieces have been laid out on the fabric, the next step
is to cut the fabric. Be very careful in cutting this. If you cut carelessly, time, effort, and
money will be wasted.
A good rule to remember is, always cut along the pattern so that your free
hand rests on the pattern. For the right-handed person, cut to the right of the cutting
line. The fingers of the left hand rest lightly on the pattern along the cutting line.
Reverse this if you are left-handed.

Pointers in Cutting the Fabric

1. Place the fabric and pattern flat on the table. Avoid moving or lifting the fabric
while cutting.
2. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the fabric toward you because
the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape.
3. Use sharp shears for cutting, making long strokes along straight edges and short,
even strokes along curved edges. Cut the edge straight since it serves as your
guide in sewing.
4. Cut the fabric starting from the widest to the narrowest part of the pattern. Begin
cutting at an edge which is easy to reach.
5. Cut with smooth, even strokes.
6. Keep the cutting edge of the top blade of the shears directly above the lower
blade. Do not let the blades slant toward the table.
7. Cut similar patterns at the same time by cutting them out from two layers of
fabric.
8. Close the points of the shears right up to the notch. Close the points at the exact
stopping place. Cut outward from the pattern to the exact tip of the notch. Cut
inward to complete the notch at the cutting line.
9. When cutting curves, make your strokes shorter. Keep the free hand close to the
cutting line to have smooth curved line.
10. Set aside cut fabric pieces to avoid cutting them accidentally as you work on
other parts of the fabric.
11. After cutting, do not remove the pins and patterns because you will need them in
marking your fabric.
12. Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use. You may be able to use
these for your recycling projects.
63
 Learning Module -Dressmaking/ Grade 10
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1. If your left hand on the pattern and fabric and hold them in place, and cut
cleanly with the scissor blades at a right angle to the fabric.
2. You can cut a small clip into the fabric to mark the dots that indicate the top of
the shoulder on a sleeve. Alternatively these can be marked with tailor’s tacks.

Cut the mirror image of the

notches out into the fabric, rather
than cutting Out each notch A small clip or snip into the fabric is
separately, cut straight across a useful way to mark some of the
from one point to point. lines that appear on a pattern.
Enhancement
activity
Let the students perform on how to cut the fabric properly.
Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while
performing the activity.

64
 Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students
PERFORMANCE LEVEL
Dimension Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No
Points
Satisfactory Improvement Attempt
Earned
(4 pts.) (3 pts.) (2 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.)
Uses tools Uses tools Uses tools
and Uses tools and
and and
equipment equipment
equipment equipment
1. Use of correctly incorrectly
correctly correctly and No
tools and and and
and but less attempt
equipment confidently at confidently less confidently
all most of the confidently
most of the
times times sometimes
time
Manifests
understanding Manifests less
Manifests of understanding
Manifests clear of
very clear understanding the step-by-
understanding the step- by-
step No
of the of the step attempt
step- by- procedure
step- by-step but procedure
procedure step sometimes seeking
procedure seeks clarification
2. Application most
clarification
of procedures of the time
Works
Works Works independently
Works
independently independently independently but
with ease and with with with No
confidence at ease and ease and assistance attempt
all confidence confidence from others
times most of the sometimes
time most
of the time
Observes Observes Most of the
safety safety Observes time
3. Safety safety
precautions at precautions precautions not observing No
work habits all safety attempt
most of the sometimes
times time precautions
Task is
completed Task is Task is
Task is nearly started but
following the completed
completed not completed
following
4.Completenes procedures in the following the following the No
s of Task the procedures in procedures attempt
activity procedures the in
in the the
improvement/ project plan project plan
innovations project plan
Work Work
Work completed completed
5. Time Work completed No
completed ___(mins./ ___(mins./
management ahead of time within hours/d hours/d attempt
allotted time ays) beyond ays) beyond

TOTAL POINTS

Transferring of Marks onto the Fabric

After cutting the garment pieces, you are ready to transfer your pattern marks
to the fabric. Use tailor’s chalk or dressmaker’s carbon paper aided by a tracing wheel.
Whichever tool you decide to use, make sure that you transfer all important pattern
marks clearly and accurately. The following are the general details to be marked:

1. seamlines along curves and corners

2. position of pockets
3. stitch lines
4. center lines for the front and back opening, facings and interdacings
5. darts
6. location of buttons and button holes
7. points where stitching lines should stop
8. fold lines
 9. any other special markings used to construct the garment

Guidelines in Transferring Marks onto the Fabric

1. Details should be marked on the wrong side of the fabric where most
construction lines are needed.
2. If you use a tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon paper, mount these on a
piece of heavy cardboard to protect table surfaces.
3. Use white tracing paper whenever possible because it is safe and easy to
remove.
4. Use a ruler to make straight lines with the tracing wheel. Run the tracing wheel
along the edge of the ruler with a firm and steady motion to avoid double lines,
which can be confusing.
5. When marking curves, slant the tracing wheel slightly inward toward the center
of the curve.
6. Avoid retracing or going over the line twice.
7. There are various methods in transferring pattern marking. Tailor’s tacks are
good for circles and dots, or mark these with a water or air-soluble pen (when
using a pen, test it on a piece of scrap fabric first).

For lines, you can use trace basting or a tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon
paper.

Methods of Transferring Pattern Marking

1. By Using Tailor’s Tacks

Often, dots are of different sizes so it is a good idea to

choose different colors of thread for each dot size. It is
the easy to match the colors as well as dots. Use
double thread in your needle, unknotted. Insert the
needle through the dot from right to left, leaving a tail of
thread. Be sure to go through the tissue and both layers
of fabric.
1. Now stitch through the dot again, this time
from top to bottom to make a loop. Cut
through the loop, then snip off excess thread
to leave a tail.

2. Carefully pull the pattern tissue away. On the

top side, you will have four threads marking
each dot. When you turn the fabric over. The
dot positions will be marked with an X.

3. Gently turn back the two layers of fabric to

separate them, then cut through the threads so
that thread tails are left in both pieces of fabric.

2. By Using Tracing Paper and Wheel

1. This method is not suitable for all fabrics as the
marks may not be able to be removed easily.
Slide dressmaker’s carbon paper against the
wrong side of the fabric.
2. Run a tracing along the pattern lines (a ruler
will help you make straight lines)

3. Remove the carbon paper and carefully pull

off the pattern tissue. You will have dotted
lines marked on your fabric.

3. By Using Markers
 1. This method can only be used with a single
layer of fabric. Press the point of the pen into
the center of the dot marked on the pattern
piece.

2. Carefully remove the pattern. The pen marks

will have gone through the tissue on the fabric.
Be sure not to press the fabric before the pen
marks are removed or they may become
permanent.

4. By Trace Tacking
1. This is a really useful technique to
mark center front lines, foldlines, and
placement lines. With double thread
in your needle, stitch a rwo of loopy
stitches, sewing along the line
marked on the pattern.
2. Carefully pull away the tissue. Cut
through the loops,, then gently
separate the layers of fabric to show
the threads. Snip apart to leave
thread tails in both of the fabric
layers.

What is It

Let the students perform how to transfer pattern markings properly onto the
fabric. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing
the activity.

Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students

PERFORMANCE LEVEL
Dimension Excellent Very Satisfactory Needs No
Points
Satisfactory Improvement Attempt
Earned
(4 pts.) (3 pts.) (2 pts.) (1 pt.) (0 pt.)
Uses tools Uses tools Uses tools
and Uses tools and
and and
equipment equipment
equipment equipment
1. Use of correctly incorrectly
correctly correctly and No
tools and and and
and but less attempt
equipment confidently at confidently less confidently
all most of the confidently
most of the
times times sometimes
time
2. Application Manifests
of procedures understanding Manifests less
Manifests of understanding
Manifests clear of
very clear understanding the step-by- the step- by-
understanding step No
of the of the step attempt
step- by- procedure
step- by-step but procedure
procedure step sometimes seeking
procedure seeks clarification
most
clarification
of the time
Works Works Works Works No
independently independently independently independently attempt
with ease and with with but
confidence at ease and ease and with
all confidence confidence assistance
times most of the sometimes
 from others
time most
of the time
Observes Observes Most of the
safety safety Observes time
3. Safety precautions at safety not observing No
precautions precautions attempt
work habits all safety
most of the sometimes
times time precautions
Task is
completed Task is Task is
Task is nearly started but
following the completed
completed not completed
procedures in following No
4.Completenes the following the following the
s of Task the procedures in procedures attempt
activity procedures the in
in the the
improvement/ project plan project plan
innovations project plan
Work Work
Work completed completed
5. Time Work completed No
completed ___(mins./ ___(mins./
management ahead of time within hours/d hours/d attempt
allotted time ays) beyond ays) beyond
TOTAL POINTS

Learning Outcome 3 Assemble Garment Parts for Ladies Skirt

Pre-assembling Procedure

The quality of clothes that we are wearing is affected by the way they are
constructed. Understanding the construction process will help us choose quality
clothes. There are various standards on how they are being constructed either for
ready-to-wear or custom-sewn clothing.
Skirt Unit
Front
1. Stay stitch waistline on seamline from sides through center front.
2. Stitch the darts, Slash and press open curved darts.
3. Finish the bottom edge of the facing with the side seams folded out.
Back and Side Seams
1. Stay stitch waistline on seam line from side to center.
2. Stitch darts and press toward center.
3. Stitch skirt front to back at side seams. Press seams open.
4. Connect the side seams of the skirt, except where the zipper will be attached.