Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Spinning Mills
Spinning Mills
Spinning Mills
REPORT
SUBMITTED BY:
AVANI AMBARDAR
ITI VERMA
KRATI AGRAWAL
PRIYAMVADA
ROHIT KUMAR
SHIKHA MAURYA
SHRUTI KAPADIA
-DFT IV
NIFT GANDHINAGAR
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well
planned and advanced textile units, working with them was eye-opening
for us as we saw how things are done in big companies. We take the
opportunity to thank all the people who guided us through the entire
process and made our training a success by sharing their knowledge.
We would like to thank Mr. Shubhanish Malhotra, Sr. Manager (H.R) and
Ms. Somya Sharotri, Manager (H.R) at Arvind our mentor and all
department heads who helped us through the project without whose
support and guidance the internship couldn’t have been completed
satisfactorily.
PART – 1
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Arvind Mills, the flagship company of the Lalbhai Group, is one of India's
leading composite manufacturers of textiles. Its headquarters is in
Ahmadabad, Gujarat, India. It manufactures a range of cotton shirting,
denim, knits and bottom weights (Khakis) fabrics. It is India's largest
denim manufacturer apart from being world’s fourth-largest producer and
exporter of denim. In the early 1980s, the company brought denim into
the domestic market, thus started the jeans revolution in India.
Today it not only retails its own brands like Flying Machine, Newport and
Excalibur but also licensed international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler
and Tommy Hilfiger, through its nationwide retail network. Arvind also runs
a value retail chain, Mega mart, which stocks company brands. The
original budget for the company totaled $ 55 thousand, at present it is $
500 million Arvind feature is that its enterprises are equipped with highly
advanced equipment of a full cycle – from painting the fiber to the finished
product.
• 1999 – Arvind Mills sets a two-month deadline for hiving off its
garments division into a separate company and sale of its real estate in
Delhi.
• 2003 – For the fourth quarter, Arvind Mills witnesses 280% growth in
the net profit Arvind Mills Ltd is assigned a `P1+` rating by CRISIL, which
indicates a very strong rating for their commercial paper.
• 2004 – Company turns itself around showing remarkable
improvement in financial performance.
• 2005 – For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind Mills has managed to
post a profit growth in excess of 80 per cent. Arvind Mills decides to buy
entire stake in Arvind Brands from ICICI Ventures.
ARVIND BRANDS
Flying Machine, Newport in jeans and Excalibur in shirts.
Arvind also has licenses from reputed international brands like Arrow, Lee,
Wrangler, Tommy Hilfiger, Marks and Spencer, Adidas and many more.
MANUFACTURING PHILOSOPHY
Excellence in quality and flexibility in production
VISION
To achieve global dominance in select business built around our core
competencies, through continuous product and technical innovation
customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with
the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use
of textiles.
Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibres,
filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of
length to thickness. Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an
independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the
final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.
PART – 2
YARN MANUFACTURING AND WINDING
SECTION
This was the first section to be covered on factory floor. For this we were
sent to Naroda plant of Arvind which is very famous for its Denim
production. Near to them was ASHOKA SPINTEX which was only for yarn
preparation purpose. Below are the various processes they were using in
for yarn preparation.
COTTON BALES
Imported (US- least cost , Egypt, Russia, Australia)
Domestic Organic cotton sourced from Vidharbha (Maharashtra).
YARN REALIZATION/RECOVERY
BALE CAPACITY
INPUT VS OUTPUT
Input: 11 ton
Output: 6-7 tons
This production is for 24 hrs & for all counts.
STROAGE: 3- 4 months
VARIETIES
The Blow Room is the first stage or first process in the short staple
spinning. The name “Blow Room” is given to this stage because of the
“air” that is commonly used during this processing of fibres.
The cotton arrives at the mill in large bales. The compressed mass of raw
fiber must be removed from the bales, blended, opened and cleaned.
Blending is necessary to obtain uniformity of fiber quality; opening is
necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them;
cleaning is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any
remaining seeds in order to prepare the fiber for spinning into yarn.
FUNCTION OF BLOWROOM
The various impurities like short fibers and trash present in the raw
materials are removed here in blowroom.
Machines Classification:-
Basic problem
Usually ginning and sometimes rains tend to wet the cotton which
makes the cotton heavy and sticky. It becomes hard to open the
fibres then.
CARDING
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities
must be removed, the fibers must be disentangled, and they must be
straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat
parallel lengthwise alignment. This process of aligning fibers in parallel
fashion is called carding. The machine used is called the carding machine.
The machine used for this purpose was a carding machine of Indian made
named ‘Lakshmi Reiter’ .
The length of sliver varies with the width of it.(again depends on further
requirement of process).
Wire Pin
It is used to straighten the fibers, 800 ppsi (picks per square inch).The
ouput i.e carded sliver are collected in cylinders 20 kg each.
This process is for the additional straightening of the carded sliver. In this
operation, fine toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they
are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that a short fibers
called noils, are combed out and completely separated from the longer
fibers.
yarn evenness
strength
cleanness
smoothness
visual appearance
In addition to the above, combed cotton needs less twist than a carded
yarn.
3. Elimination of naps.
COMBING
PROCESS
There are sensors to sense the thickness of sliver. If the thickness is more
than required then the speed of rollers is automatically increased to
decrease the thickness of sliver. For finer count, the production is low
DRAWING
The combining of several slivers for the drawing process removes
irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were put
through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced
set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed.
This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing
longer and thinner slivers. After several stages of drawing out, the
condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to those in
the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is
passed to the spindles, where it is given the first twist and then wound on
bobbins.
FUNCTIONS OF DRAWING
TASKS OF DRAWFRAME
SPEED FRAME
SPINNING
AUTO-CONER:
The spindles are then fed into the auto-coner. The purpose of auto-coner
is to remove the thick and thin places or any kind of yarn faults (long cuts,
short cuts, naps etc.) and also make bigger cones.
The parameters are set according to the buyers requirements and the
machine automatically cuts the thread with the help of a cutter whenever
it senses a fault. The broken ends are then untwisted to fiber form and re-
twisted together with the help of a thermo splicer.
YARN WINDING
The yarns received from the preparatory section are in the form of
spindles or bobbins. The process of converting spindles into cones is
called winding.
TASKS OF THE WINDING PROCESS
Extraction of all disturbing yarn fault s such as the short, long thick,
long thin, spinner s doubles, etc.
Paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process
Introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots
The winding process therefore has the basic function of obtaining a
larger package from several small ring bobbins.
Yarn Wound:
REWINDING:
After the yarn has been dyed, rewinding is to be done. During yarn dyeing
soft packages are used on which the yarns were loosely wound which
might lead to improper unwinding during warping. Thus, the yarn has to
be wound on the cones again tightly.
One of the major problem in winding is that the yarn may be wound too
tight( hard package) or too loose which may lead to problems in dyeing,
solution to which was nothing but just operators always have to have an
eye on tension of winding.
PROBLEM:--
During the spinning process some workers were not wearing any
protection mask and earplugs which may lead to occupational hazards
such as respiratory problems and temporary hearing loss in short term
exposure and in the long run may lead to fatal diseases as the process
involves a lot of fine suspended particles in the workplace.
SOLUTION
Masks and earplugs should be provided to all the workers in this section
and wearing of mask should be made compulsory for all the workers and it
should be strictly followed.
PART – 3
MARKET PROFILE
Arvind knits has over the years acquired strong and meaningful business
relationships with brands and retailers the world over. Arvind has always
been in tune with the fashion trends abroad. The design cell works two
seasons in advance, to cater to the demands of various rungs of fashion
brands and retailers.
NIKE International
FILA Sports
OUTERBANKS, USA
Wrangler, USA
S. Oliver Germany
Espirit Germany
NEXT, UK
Reebok, USA
PDG
Departmen
t
Yarn
Received
Preparation
of soft
package
Yarn dyeing
Rewinding
Knitting
Fabric
Dyeing
Finishing
Packaging
Major Domestic Customers
Color Plus
Arrow
Lee
Parx
PDG Department:
Working as the front lines for the company, the department is involved in
development of new kind of products i.e. fabrics. The department
functions at four different levels:
It has a pool of designers which suggest them with the theme board,
and as such inspire them to come up with a new design of fabric for a
season.
YARN DYEING
The yarns dyed are mainly polyester, cotton and vicose for both shirting
and hosiery. The dyes used are mainly reactive (90%), vat dyes and
disperse dyes.
The grey yarn is sourced from Nahar, Vardhman and Arvind itself. Firstly,
the sampling is done according to customer requirement. If approved the
bulk dyeing begins.
MACHINE AND PRODUCT CATEGORIZATION
A. TUBULAR KNITTING
BASIC MACHINE
MINI JACQUARD
Can develop complex designs which are not possible by the basic
machine, has got 37 jacks adjustments on drums to knit, miss and tuck.
FULL JACQUARD
BASIC MACHINE
Single colour double jersey fabric.
Rib & Interlock designs possible with simple needle adjustment.
Simple designs possible as in single jersey basic machine.
BASIC MACHINE
Similar to single jersey basic machine but it cuts the tubular form and rolls
it in open form.
BASIC MACHINE
This machine is especially used to make collar, cuffs, and other bands
used in garment.
4. Cam system
6. Fabric tube
7. Revolution counter
8. Lint blower
9. Creel stand
11. Feeder – there are two types of feeder used for S/J if the front and
back side are different.
CLEARING
YARN
FEEDING
KNOCK OVER
HOLDING
DOWN
PROCEDURE
Thread breakage
Lycra breakage
Fabric take up roll door open
Lint accumulation
Needle breakage
Yarn loose
Machine details
END PRODUCTS
100% Cotton
Polycot (60%-40%, 65%-35%, 70%-30%, 50%-50% composition )
Cotton Viscose
100% viscose
Polyviscose
Cotton linen
Cotton modal
Modal lycra
There are 4 fabric inspection machines in the department. Two for greige
fabric (piece dyed) and two for yarn dyed fabric.
Size Points
Upto 3” 1
3”-6” 2
6”-9” 3
9” and above 4
Fresh 8 8 16
Grade-B 12 12 24
KNITTING DEFECTS
Barreness
Hole
Needle Line
Drop stitches
Sinker Line
Press off
Oil Line
Knots
Tail Ends
Tuck Stitches
Off Pattern
Edge Marks
PROBLEM
During the knitting of collar using Lycra yarn, a lot of hole was emerging
as there was not free movement between the yarn and the needle.
SOLUTION
PART -4
SHIRTING
(WEAVING SECTION)
INTRODUCTION
Product Range:
Counts: 16s, 20s, 24s, 30s, 2/30s, 40s, 50s, 2/50s, 60s, 2/80s, 2/100s,
2/140s, 2/170s, 2/190s.
Blends: 100% cotton, tencel, linen, modal, polyester cotton, lycra, silk.
Varieties: Yarn-dyed stripes, checks, fil-a-fil’s, chambrays and solids in all
possible weaves like twills, satins, dobbies and jacquards.
Chemical Finishes done: ETI, Stain free, Odor free, UV cut, Arvi Silk,
Nano-care, Nano-pel, etc.
Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed
fabrics in dyed and solids for top weights.
WEAVING
Temperature: 32-35
Humidity: 75%
Machine Categorization
The Textile Park basically had two types of weaving machines.
PICANOL GAMMEX
Machine specifications
Tension – 2.9 kh
RPM – 470
Efficiency - 77%
Weft feeder – 8
Two edge cutters
Frame capacity – 24
Cost – approx 35 lakhs
Production is slower
Machine specification
RPM – 520
Frame capacity – 16
Weft feeder – 6
Production is faster
Waste
There are basically a few types of waste found in Textile Park. Usually the
waste is minimized but still about 2-3% of the production goes to waste
everyday. The various types of waste are the following:-
Size Waste
It is the thread left on the warp beam after the beam has been utilized. It
is basically about 5-6 metres on each warp beam.
Knotting waste
This is the waste generally occurring during the process of knotting which
is joining together of two warp beams using a knotter. Usually the first few
metres of the newer warp beam are not used and are waste. This is
basically half metres every time during changeover of the beams.
Catchcord waste
When the spindle is rotated, the waste weft clings to the cling part of the
spindle and is entangled with the catch cord yarn. The entangled weft and
yarn is collected in a box. It is basically a waste after cutting.
Size extra waste
This kind of waste is generally because the warp is sized much more than
required. This generally happens in the yarn used in denim manufacture
than in the yarn used in the manufacture of shirting fabric.
Chindi waste
This waste is basically utilized. It is sold to people who buy it to make door
mats and rugs. This waste is generally 2-4 metres per beam.
There are other little wastage occurring. These were mainly occurring
wastage in the Textile Park which accounted for maximum wastage.
PRODUCTS DEFECTS
The various product defects occurring in the textile park are the
following:-
Missing ends
Double ends
Broken pick
Pressure drop
More pick
Less pick
Double pick
Tight end
Package change
Multiple breaks
Wrong drawing
Bend pick
Black stains
Oil stains
These are some of the various product defects which occur in the plant.
Types of fabric
The various fabric produced have different weaves. The most common
ones are:-
Plain weave
Dobby weave
Dobby crammi
BUSINESS AT A GLANCE
Manufacturing
Technical Excellence
Flexible production
Lower minimums
NEXT
INVISTA (Dupont)
Spinning
Winding
Yarn Dyeing
warping
Sizing
Weaving
Grey Inspection
Bleaching
Fabric Finishing
Dyeing
Printing
Finish Quality
InspectionAssurance
Folding and
Packing
Dispatching
Yellow 3 rt
Brown br
Olive d/grey 5607
Red 3b, etc.
DYE AUXILIARIES
Wetting agent
Dispersing agent
Levelling agent
Hydrogen peroxide
Caustic
Acetic acid
TYPES OF DYEING:--
PACKAGE DYEING
The term package dyeing usually denotes for dyeing of yarn that has been
wound on perforated cores. This helps in forcing the dye liquor through
the package. The dye liquor goes on circulating throughout the vessel and
tank. This happens till all the dye is fully exhausted.
The dye flows through to the yarn package with the help of the deliberate
perforations in the tube package. Once full exhaustion is brought about,
the carrier of coloured yarn is consequently removed from the vessel .
Process:--
Peroxide( 900 C , 30 min. ) =>Hot wash (900 C, 10 min.)=> Acid (Room
temp, 10 min.) =>EPN i.e peroxide =>Ready to dye.
Timers are set in vessels which release acids/colors etc at times specified.
CARRIERS
There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 5 spindles.
Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 5 spindles
on 1 carrier. Those carriers are classified on their weight capacity.
BEAM DYEING
Beam dyeing is simply a much larger version of package dyeing. An entire
warp is wound onto perforated cylinder , which is then placed in a beam
dyeing machine where f low of the dye bath alternated as in package
dyeing. Beam dyeing is more economical than skein or package dyeing. It
takes 9 hr. to dye once.
Process:-
Chemical, color, salt etc are added to respective vessels and again timers
are set to give calls in response to which machine acts.
Chemical is kept for 10 min. => color (30 min.) =>call pfp(fixer i.e color +
chemical) =>10 min. washing@ 700 C =>acid added (700C, 10 min.)=>
Soaping (900 C,20 min.)
For Light shades only one time soaping happens which actually helps in
color fixation whereas for deep shades its done twice i.e for 40 min.
WARPING MACHINE:
Warping is done to prepare the warp beams which will be directly used on
the loom.
WARPING
Direct warping is basically used for grey yarn, where we have to make
large patterns.
Therefore, for example, if the weaver’s beam contains 9000 warp ends,
then there would be say 9 warper’s beam of 1000 ends each.
PART -5
FINISHING SECTION
Grey fabric
Mending Batching
inspection
Rotation
(8hr Desizing Singeing
Washing)
Mercerizati
Bleaching
on
Fabric classified as
MENDING
The fabric is brought from the storage area for mending. After mending,
the fabric is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking.
BATCHING
Fabric is sewn end to end and then batched. Spec sheets are sent to the
batching in-charge, wherein it is mentioned how many meters of what
fabric needs to be rolled together in one package.
SINGEING MACHINE
If the fabric is to have a smooth finish, singeing is one of the first essential
preparatory processes. Singeing burns of lint and threads as well as all
fuzz and fiber ends, leaving an even surface before the fabric passes
through other finishing processes. Singeing is accomplished by passing
grey goods over gas flames, usually two burners aside at a speed of 100-
250 yards/min.
Singeing may also be done at the yarn stage, especially when the yarns
are to be used for fine quality cotton goods. Usually such yarns are fully
mercerized, and singeing in this case is referred to as gassing.
A roller with brushes removes the fibers on selvedge and small protruding
fibers. A suction pump takes these fibers and pumps them into an air bag.
This bag needs to be changed every week.
Two burners
Temperature- 1000 0 C
Speed: 1m/s
CNG used for burning
Flames perpendicular to the fabric
Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure
1 shift (8 hours) – 30,000m of fabric is singed
Efficiency – 85%
Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds
to traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the
temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool
the cellulosic fiber.(Each quenching roller costs 1 lakh )
Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons –
Efficient singeing.
No local cooling problem
No hardness is produced on fabric surface
STEPS IN SINGEING:
DESIZING
CHEMICALS USED
Temperature – 55 °C
Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in
the fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off.
These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the
size present on the fabric
STENTERS
Stenters are machines used to impart finishes on the grey fabric. In this
process, smoothening out of the fabric basically takes place. It is done
because after bleaching, or any wet process, the fabric gets wrinkled or
creased. Stentering removes these bumps and helps in stabilizing the
tension in the fabric. The fabric is stabilized 10% by stenters and rest 90%
is done by mercerization.
5.1.1.1 FINISHES
There are around 42 finishes of fabrics, like easy-to-iron (ETI), nano finish,
and perfume finish, mosquito repellent finish (for Belgium army), etc. The
finishes done exclusively in Arvind are vitamin E (retained till 40 washes),
anti-microbial, parma finish.
Drying
Speed-20m/min to 50 m/min
5.1.1.5 LIMITATION
No automation.
No bow-bias correction.
2. Oil stain
MERCERISATION
AIM OF MERCERISING:
Increase dimensional stability to avoid skewness and shrinkage.
Cold Bleaching is usually done for yarn dyed fabrics. The machine used is
BENNINGER.
CURING
SANFORIZATION
Manufacturer- Monforts
Model ¡V Monfortex
Serial No.-71T68254
5.1.3.2TECHNICAL DETAILS
Efficiency: 90-95%
„h Water drop
„h Sleeve cut - tension variation between fabric body and selvedge, folded
mark in selvedge or adjustment of fabric tension
Printing
Domestic market
Exports
For sampling, there are 2 machines : Baby rotary screen printing &
digital printing m/c
Hand screen printing is also employed for sampling. It is also known as
strike off.
Then it is scanned.
If the design is approved, then the design code of that particular design
is noted and sent to the marketing department, which then issues a spec
sheet to the design department accordingly.
Fixation: Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the
prints are fixed mainly with steam or hot air (for pigments).
Screen preparation
This process is used mainly for printing samples in smaller dimensions and
smaller quantity which are used for checking customer approval.
Then, Bluecoat 666 Photo screen emulsion is applied on the screen and
allowed to dry for 3 minutes at 270C.
The screen is then soaked in plain water for about 10-15 min and then
cleaned with a jet of water to unclog the pores.
One screen is used for only one colour. The same screen can be used 7
times. Arvind has about 500 screens. Screens are produced as and when
required.
At first the print paste is prepared using binder, water and dyestuff.1 kg
binder is used for every 10 g of colour.
The fabric is then glued on to the table top. The screen is then placed
over the fabric; the print paste is poured over it a spread on the fabric
manually by a wooden squeegee.
6.5 ROTARY SAMPLE PRINTING MACHINE (YARDAGE PROCESS)
CST has software which is used to print designs. The design is fed into
the CST using a CD.
After the design has been printed on the screen, UV rays are emitted
from the CST head. It is then washed with plain water to unclog the pores.
Transporting roller.
12 printing rollers.
Nickel screen.
6.5.4 FEATURES
Speed: 80 m/min.
Production: 8000m/shift.
Beneath every screen, there is a set of magnet bars, which attracts the
magnetic squeegee.
Colour flows through the inclined screen and again, colour is put into
the upper portion of the screen.
Print mode and colour pump speed can be set from the control panel.
6.5.7 FAULTS
Testing
Length
Uniformity
Whiteness
Impurities
Moisture content
The room had a hygrograph which maintained the temperature and the
humidity level of the room at a certain standard temperature which makes
it easier for the buyer to approve the quality by testing the samples at the
same conditions in any part of the world.
The dark room consisted of Colour matching box to test the light fastness
and color fastness of the samples through Blue Wool and Grey Scale.
TEST PRINCIPLE – The test specimen is stitched with one piece of test
fabric and put into washing liquid. Rotated under a certain temperature for
a certain time, and then washed with distilled water and dried. Color
change of specimen and staining of test fabric is assessed with AATCC or
ISO gray scale.
The test fabric is generally multifiber test fabric (8mm bands) consisting
of bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and wool.
The test specimen is put in the canisters containing wash liquor and steel
balls. The canisters are placed in washer. The washer is
filled with water and canister preheated for 2min. And then it is rotated for
45min at 40rpm.
Machine Details:
Model: SW-12W
Tensile
GSM cutters are used to determine the GSM of knitted, woven and non-
woven fabrics. They are easy to operate and proved to provide accurate
results. Below mentioned are the sizes, in which it is offered:
13 mm
38 mm
140 mm
7.3 INSPECTION
0 to 3‟‟ – 1 point
3 to 6‟‟ – 2 point
6 to 9 „‟ – 3 point