DIAVEL 2015-2016 Diavel

DUCATI DIAVEL Workshop Manual
2015-2016D.01 - General
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
Product specifications
Hazardous Products - Warnings
General maintenance instructions
General safety rules
D.03 - Technical data

Technical specifications
Lights/instrument panel
Injection system
Fuel system
Injection-ignition system
Charging system/alternator
Hydraulic brakes
Rear suspension
Rear wheel
Front suspension
Front wheel
Cooling system
Gearbox
Cylinder/Piston
Crankshaft
Timing system/valves
Transmission
Colours
General
Dimensions
Dimensions
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
Torque settings
Engine torque settings
Frame torque settings
Service tools
Appropriate diagnosis tools
Specific tools for the frame
Specific tools for the engine
D.04 - Maintenance operations

Vehicle pre-delivery
Scheduled maintenance chart
Operations to be carried out by the customer
Operations to be carried out by the dealer
Maintenance operations
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
Adjusting the front fork
Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
Removing the throttle twistgrip
Checking the rear brake pad wear and changing the brake pads
Checking the front brake pad wear and changing the brake pads
Adjusting the chain tension
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Filling the clutch circuit
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Changing the clutch fluid
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Changing the coolant
Checking the coolant level
Changing and cleaning the air filters
Spark plugs replacement
Change timing belts
Checking valve clearance
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Check engine oil level
D.05 - Fairings
Rear-view mirrors
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Removal of the rear-view mirrors
Fairing panels
Refitting the tank fairings
Reassembling the front half-fairings
Disassembling the front half-fairings
Removing the tank fairings
Seat - seat cowling and side panels
Refitting the rider seat
Removal of the rider seat
Front and rear mudguard
Refitting the rear mudguard
Removing the rear mudguard
Refitting the front mudguard
Removing the front mudguard
Lug
Reassembling the belly fairing
Removing the belly fairing
Electric component support
Refitting the electrical component support
Removing the electric component support
D.06 - Electric system and engine control system

Wiring diagram
Table Z
Table Y
Table X
Table W
Table V
Table U
Table T
Table S
Table R
Table Q
Table P
Table O
Table N
Table M
Table L
Table K
Table J
Table H
Table G
Table F
Table E
Table D
Table C
Table B
Table A
Routing of wiring on frame
Rear right fuse box (2) key
Rear left fuse box (1) key
Wiring diagram colour codes
Key to wiring diagram
Battery charging system
Rectifier-regulator
Alternator
Battery
Topping up the electrolyte
Recharging the battery
Checking the battery charging system
Electric starting system
Solenoid starter
Starter motor
Lights and indicating devices
Headlight aim
Changing bulbs
Renewal of the headlight
Indicating devices
Checking the indicating devices
Instruments
Immobilizer override procedure
Other functions
PIN CODE change function
ABS disabling function
Units of measurement modification function
Clock setting function
Battery voltage indicator (BATTERY)
Stored LAP erase function
Stored LAP display function
LAP registration function
LAP Activation/Deactivation function (lap time)
Digital RPM indication function
Backlighting setting function for the dashboard on handlebar - DASHBOARD 2
Background setting function for the dashboard on tank - DASHBOARD 1
Menu 2 On/Off function
DEFAULT function (Resetting Ducati default parameters)
ENGINE setting function (Engine Power Control)
Tips on how to select the sensitivity level
DTC (Ducati Traction Control) setting function
"Riding Mode" customisation
"Setting" menu
Dashboard diagnosis
Steering release error - Steering still locked
"High" engine coolant temperature
"Low" Hands Free key (HF) battery level
Hands Free key (HF) not recognised
Traction Control (DTC) deactivated
"Low" battery level
Warning indication (Alarms/Signals)
Indication of range reached for SERVICE
Residual range indication when the SERVICE is due
First warning - OIL SERVICE 1000 Km
Maintenance indicator
"Riding Style" function (riding style change)
"FUEL LEVEL" indication
"SIDE STAND" indication
Indication if the "LAP" function is active/not active
"Riding Mode set" indication
Engaged gear indicator
Indicator "AIR" - Air temperature
Indicator "TRIP TIME" - Trip time
Indicator "SPEED AVG" - Average speed
Indicator "CONS." - Instantaneous fuel consumption
Indicator "CONS. AVG" - Average fuel consumption
Distance travelled on fuel reserve: "TRIP FUEL"
"RANGE" indicator - Estimate of the distance that can be covered
"Trip 2" meter
"Trip 1" meter
Total distance covered indicator: "Odometer"
TFT - Parameter setting/display
Dashboard on tank
Coolant temperature
Clock
Engine rpm indicator (RPM)
Vehicle speed indicator
LCD unit functions
Dashboard system
Dashboard
The Hands Free system
Passive key
Active key
How to reset the PIN code
How to enable the PIN code
How to enable engine start with PIN code
Start procedure with PIN code (no keys)
Recovery procedure in the event of Hands Free system fault
Recovery procedure in the event of electric steering lock fault
Recovery in the event of flat active key battery
Recovery procedure with no key
Recovery and emergency procedures
How to turn the motorcycle off
How to start the motorcycle without keys
How to start the motorcycle if the active key is not working
How to start the engine
How to switch the dashboard on
How to turn the motorcycle on
Operating principle
Introduction to the "Hands Free" system
D.07 - Chassis
Front wheel
Overhauling the front wheel
Refitting the front wheel
Removing the front wheel
Rear wheel
Overhauling the rear wheel
Refitting the rear wheel
Removing of the rear wheel
Front brake control
Overhauling the front brake components
Refitting the front brake system
Refitting the brake discs
Removing the brake discs
Removing the front brake system
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Rear brake
Refitting the rear brake calliper
Removing the rear brake disc
Removing the rear brake calliper
Refitting the rear brake control
Disassembling the rear brake control
Removing the rear brake control
ABS system information
Disabling the ABS
ABS operating information
Operating principle
System components
Table C
Table B
Table A
Wiring/hose routing
Refitting the ABS control unit
Removing the ABS control unit
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
ABS components maintenance
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
Adjusting of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor
Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip
Refitting the throttle twistgrip
Removal of the throttle twistgrip
Removing the throttle twistgrip
Refitting the handlebar
Removing the handlebar
Handlebar unit: Hydraulic clutch control
Refitting the clutch transmission unit
Removal of the clutch transmission unit
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly
Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly
Handlebar unit: Hands free
Refitting the Hands Free
Removing the Hands Free
Gearchange mechanism
Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Disassembly of the gearchange mechanism
Removing the gearchange mechanism
Fork - Steering head: front fork
Overhauling the front forks
Refitting the front forks
Removal of the front forks
Fork - steering head: Steering
Steering angle adjustment
Refitting the steering tube components
Removing the steering head components
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Rear shock absorber assembly
Reassembly of rear shock absorber - rocker arm - linkage assembly
Disassembly of rear shock absorber - rocker arm - linkage assembly
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Refitting the shock absorber support
Removal of the shock absorber support
Refitting the rear suspension
Removal of the rear shock absorber
Rear suspension system
Swingarm
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Removing the swinging arm
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft
Final drive
Washing the chain
Refitting the front sprocket
Removing of the front sprocket
Inspecting the final drive
Lubricating the chain
Refitting the rear sprocket
Replacing of the rear sprocket
Footrest brackets
Refitting the rear footrests
Removing of the rear footrests
Refitting the front footrests
Removal of the front footrests
Reassembling the front footrest brackets
Removing the front footrest brackets
Stands
Refitting the side stand
Removing of the side stand
Frame inspection
Reassembly of the tool tray
Checking the frame
Removal of the tool tray
Reassembling the frame and the lateral footrests
Reassembly of structural components and the frame
Removing the frame and the lateral footrests
Disassembly of structural components and the frame
Tail light - number plate holder
Refitting the tail light
Removal of the tail light
Refitting the number plate holder
Removing the number plate holder
D.08 - Fuel/Exhaust System

Fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Replacing the tank flange and fuel sensor.
Refitting the filler cap
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap
Removal of the fuel tank
Airbox - Throttle Body
Refitting airbox and throttle body
Removing the airbox and throttle body
Air intake
Refitting the secondary air system
Removing the secondary air system
Refitting the air filters
Removing the air filters
Exhaust system
Refitting the silencer
Refitting the exhaust system
Removing the exhaust system
Removing the silencer
Evaporative emissions canister
Refitting the Canister filter
Removing the Canister filter
Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only)
D.09 - Engine
Removal-refitting of the engine assembly
Refitting the engine
Removing the engine
Lubrication system: oil pump
Reassembling the oil pump
Disassembling the oil pump
Refitting the oil pump
Removing the oil pump
Lubrication system: oil cooler
Oil cooler inspection
Refitting the lubrication system
Removing the lubrication system
Cooling system: coolant expansion tank
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
Refitting the expansion tank
Removal of the expansion tank
Cooling system: water radiators
Replacing the cooling fan
Refitting the water radiator
Reassembling the water radiator unit
Disassembling the water radiator unit
Removing the water radiators
Cooling system: water pump
Refitting the water pump
Removal of the water pump
Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments
Checking the engine timing
Checking valve lift
Checking and adjusting the valve clearances
Cylinder head assemblies: timing system
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Removing the tensioner pins
Refitting the timing covers
Refitting the timing belts
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/fixed tensioners
Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting pins
Disassembling the camshaft pulleys
Removing the cylinder head pulley/idler pulley
Removing the tensioner pulley/timing belt
Removing the timing belt covers
Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts
Refitting the intake manifold and coolant union
Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union
Checking the camshafts and supports
Refitting the camshafts
Removal of the camshafts
Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms
Reassembly of the cylinder head
Overhaul of cylinder head components
Removing the valves
Refitting the cylinder head assemblies
Removing the valves
Removal of the cylinder heads
Cylinder/piston assemblies
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly
Clutch assembly: clutch
Checking and overhauling the components
Description of the clutch assembly
Reassembling the clutch
Removing the clutch
Clutch assembly: clutch cover
Reassembling the clutch cover
Disassembly of the clutch cover
Refitting the clutch-side crankcase cover
Removal of the clutch-side crankcase cover
Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Removing the primary drive gears
Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism
Refitting the gear selector lever
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Overhauling the gearbox
Removing the generator cover
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Removing the gearbox assembly
Flywheel - alternator
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly
Overhaul of the flywheel-alternator assembly
Removing the flywheel - generator assembly
Refitting the alternator-side crankcase cover
Disassembly of the generator cover
Removal of the generator cover
Crankcase assembly: external components
Refitting the starter motor gear
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Refitting the timing gears
Removing the timing gears
Refitting the external components
Removing outer components
Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves
Shimming the shafts
Main bearings
Overhaul of the crankcase halves
Reassembly of the crankcase halves
Reassembly of the crankcase halves
Separation of the crankcase halves
Crankcase assembly: connecting rods
Reassembly of the connecting rods
Overhaul of the connecting rods
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly
Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which
maximum care is required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the
symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text. The
symbols should therefore be seen as real "reminders". Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to
their meaning.
The terms right-hand and left-hand refer to the motorcycle viewed from the riding position.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the
motorcycle and its components.
Note
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points
indicated. The table below shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.

Symbol Specifications Recommended
product

Engine oil (for characteristics see Fuel, lubricants and other fluids). SHELL Advance
4T Ultra

DOT 4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL Advance
Brake DOT 4

SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains with O rings. SHELL Advance
Chain or
Advance Teflon
Chain

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 to 40% + water. SHELL Advance
coolant or
Glycoshell

GREASE Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania
A R3

GREASE Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high SHELL Retinax
B temperature resistant. HDX2

GREASE Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. SHELL Retinax
C Temperature range: -10 to 110 °C. LX2

GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax
D HD2

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05
E

GREASE Grease OPTIMOL -
F PASTE WHITE T

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07
G

GREASE Grease KLÜBER
H STABURAGS
NBU 30 PTM

GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320
I

LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222

LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243

LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270

LOCK 4 Surface sealant resistant to high mechanical stress and solvents. Resists Loctite 510
high temperatures (up to 200 °C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps
up to 0.4 mm.

LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for freely sliding cylindrical couplings or threaded Loctite 128455
couplings on mechanical parts. High resistance to mechanical stress and
solvents. Temperature range: 55 to 175 °C.

LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large fittings. For water and gases Loctite 577
(except oxygen). Maximum filling capacity: 0.40 mm (diameter
clearance).

LOCK 7 Instant adhesive for rubber and plastics with elastomer charged ethylic Loctite 480
base.

LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded parts, bearings, bushes, Loctite 601
splines and keys. Operating temperature range: 55 to 150 °C.

LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406

LOCK Product for metal parts to seal and lock freely sliding cylindrical couplings Loctite 128443
10 or threaded couplings. Resistant to high mechanical stress and high
temperature, excellent resistance to solvents and chemical attack.

LOCK Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
11

LOCK Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel
12

DUCATI sealing compound. Three bond
1215 - Sealing
compound

Exhaust pipe sealing paste. Self-sealing paste hardens when heated and Holts Firegum
resists temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.

Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and SHELL Advance
condensation and provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent. Contact Cleaner

Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote M55
Plus

Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80

Protection lubricant emulsion. KLUBERPLUS S
06/100

Lubricant for mechanical elements Castor oil

Degreasing agent Deta Blu
General maintenance instructions
Useful tips
Ducati recommends you to follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best
result:
- when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports
about motorcycle operation since this information can highlight faults; your questions to the customer
concerning symptoms of the fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;
- diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides
the theoretical background for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience
and attendance at periodic training courses held by Ducati;
- repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for example
obtaining the required spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
- limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly
procedures in this manual describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.
General advice on repair work
- Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that fully comply with the
relevant European directives.
- When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required, and
never put them on the motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new parts.
- When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always start with the largest or start from the centre;
tighten nuts and screws to the specified torque working in a cross pattern.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused upon reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original spare parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special tools where specified.
- Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this
manual. Check the latest Bulletins for details.
General safety rules
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working
area is well-ventilated. Never run the engine indoors.
Warning
Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even
death if inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust gas extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes, open
flames or sparks, well away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Fuel is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for some
time after the engine has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these components or
allow the engine and exhaust system to cool down before proceeding.
Warning
The exhaust system might be hot, even after engine is switched OFF; pay particular attention not to touch
exhaust system with any body part and do not park the motorcycle next to inflammable material (wood,
leaves etc.).
Used engine oil
Warning
Prolonged or repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. If working with engine oil on a
daily basis, we recommend washing your hands thoroughly with soap immediately afterwards. Keep away
from children.
Brake dust
Never clean the brake assembly using compressed air or a dry brush.
Warning
Inhalation of asbestos fibres is a proven cause of respiratory illness and cancer.
Brake fluid
Warning
Spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle may cause damages. Protect
these parts with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the system. Keep away from children.
Coolant
Engine coolant contains ethylene glycol, which may ignite under particular conditions, producing invisible
flames. Although the flames from burning ethylene glycol are not visible, they are still capable of causing
severe burns.
Warning
Take care not to spill engine coolant on the exhaust system or engine parts. These parts may be hot and
ignite the coolant, which will subsequently burn with invisible flames. Coolant (ethylene glycol) is irritant
and poisonous when ingested. Keep away from children. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is
hot. The coolant is under pressure and will cause severe burns.
The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not snag
on the fan.
Battery
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the
battery. When charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
Lights/Instrument panel

Reference Technical specifications

Headlight low beam lamp type LED (13.5V - 24.3W)

high beam lamp type LED (13.5V - 18.9W)

Parking light Lamp type LED (13.5 V - 6.2W)

Tail light Parking light type LED (13.5 V - 0.3W)

Stop light type LED (13.5V - 1.4W)

Front turn indicators Lamp type LED (13.5 V - 4.7 W)

Rear turn indicators Lamp type LED (13.5 V - 2.06 W)

Number plate light Lamp type LED (13.5 V - 0.7 W)

Fuses Rectifier 30 A

LH fuse box key Instrument panel 10 A

ECU 5A

Key-sense 15 A

Injection starter contactor 20 A

Throttle opening motor remote control switch (ETV) 15 A

RH right fuse box key Diagnosis/Recharge 7.5 A

Navigator/Alarm 7.5 A

Black Box System (BBS) 10 A

Black Box System (BBS) 10 A

Heated handgrips 5A
Injection system

Make Type

Control unit MITSUBISHI F8TJ
Fuel system
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel
with ethanol content over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and
motorcycle components. Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.

Make Type

Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON
Fuel specifications for the US market. Unleaded fuel with a minimum octane rating of 90 (RON+MON)/2

Throttle body With oval cross-section, Ø 56 mm

Injectors per cylinder 1

Firing points per injector 12
Ignition system


Ignition Type Electric, I.A.W.-type with inductive discharge

Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V - 0.7 kW

Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR09A-J

Electrode gap 0.8±0.1 mm
Charging system/generator


Battery Voltage 12 V

Charge 10 Ah

Type Sealed-type, maintenance-free

Generator Capacity 12 V - 430W
Hydraulic brakes

Reference Standard value Service limit

FRONT

Brake disc Type Semi-floating drilled dual disc

Thickness 4 mm

Disc thickness 4.5 mm

Braking surface material Steel

Disc diameter 320 mm

Brake calliper Make Brembo

Type M4.34a

Calliper cylinder diameter 34

Pad friction material TT2182FF

Master cylinder Type PR 18/19

Master cylinder diameter 18 mm

REAR

Brake disc Type Fixed drilled disc

Thickness 5 mm 4.5 mm (min.)

Flange material steel

Diameter 265 mm

Brake calliper Make Brembo

Type PF 30/32a

Calliper cylinder diameter 30 mm / 32 mm

Pad friction material TT2182 FF

Master cylinder Type PS13

Master cylinder diameter 13 mm
Rear suspension


Type SACHS:
progressive, with monoshock with
adjustable rebound and compression.
Spring preload remote adjustment.

Shock Travel 59.5 mm
absorber

Hydraulic damping standard setting. Undo adjusters Compression: 25 clicks
from the fully closed position (turn clockwise). Rebound: 12 clicks

Spring preload Fully open (counter clockwise)

Wheel travel 170 mm
Rear wheel


Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm

Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only)
2.9 bar (with pillion rider and/or bags)

Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm

Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm

Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm

Drive chain Make DID

Type HV2 525

Size 5/8" x 1/16"

No. of links 118
Front suspension


Type MARZOCCHI
hydraulic upside-down fork with external adjusters for rebound, compression, and
preload (for inner springs of fork legs).

Travel on leg 120 mm
axis

Oil quantity, 720 cc (per leg) (*)
per leg
(*) Value refers to the air column between oil free surface and sleeve end, with sleeve in fully lowered
position and without spring and preload tube inside fork leg.
Front wheel


Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm

Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (rider only)
2.6 bar (with pillion rider and/or bags)

Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm

Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm

Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Cooling system

Reference Technical
specifications

Type Liquid-cooling with two closed-circuit radiators with twin bent radiator, twin
fan and mixing thermostat.

Coolant 2.3±0.5 litres
capacity

Thermostat Starts opening at 65 °C ±2 °C

Electric fan enabling 103 °C

Electric fan disabling 102 °C
Gearbox


Gearbox shafts End float 0.05÷0.20 mm

Selector drum End float 0.10÷0.40 mm

Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90÷4.00 mm

Fork–to-gear clearance 0.070÷0.285 mm 0.4 mm
Cylinder/piston


Cylinder nominal 106 mm
diameter

Max. oval 0.010

Max. taper 0.015

Diameter 106.000 mm ÷
Section A 106.010 mm
Section B 106.010 mm ÷
Section C 106.020 mm
106.020 mm ÷
106.030 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance 0.085 ÷ 0.105
mm

Piston Nominal diameter 106 mm

Diameter 105.905 mm ÷
Section A 105.915 mm
Section B 105.915 mm ÷
Section C 105.925 mm
105.925 mm ÷
105.935 mm

Connecting rod Connecting-rod 49 mm
big-end diameter

Crankshaft class Connecting rod Bearings colour
class

Big-end bearing pairings A A Blue + Yellow
B A Yellow + Yellow
A B Blue + Blue
B B Blue + Yellow

Big-end bearing-to-crankpin Crankpin selection Ø 42.014
clearance mm/0÷0.016
mm

Gudgeon pin–to-piston 0.015 ÷ 0.024
clearance mm

Nominal diameter Ø 20 mm

Piston Ø 20 mm /
0.020÷ 0.015

Gudgeon pin Ø 20 mm / 0 ÷
0.004

Gudgeon pin-to-connecting 0.035 ÷ 0.049
rod clearance mm

Engine cylinder compression 11÷12 bar 10 bar (MIN.), difference between the
measured with DDS2 two cylinders: 2 bar (MAX.)
Crankshaft


Crankshaft Oval 0.005 mm

Taper 0.005 mm

Main journals alignment 0.01 mm on diameter
Timing system/valves

Reference Assembly value Check value every
24,000 km

Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance

Intake Opening 4° B.T.D.C.
Closing 58° A.B.D.C.

Exhaust Opening 58°
B.B.D.C.
Closing 7° A.T.D.C.

Intake valve diameter 43.5 mm

Exhaust valve diameter 34.5 mm

Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 12.2 mm
Exhaust 11.2 mm

Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13÷0.18 mm 0.10÷0.25 mm

Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.13÷0.18 mm 0.10÷0.25 mm

Closing rocker arm - intake 0.05÷0.10 mm 0.05÷0.15 mm

Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05÷0.10 mm 0.05÷0.15 mm

Reference Assembly value (new Recovery value (used
belt) belt)

Cold belt tension DDS 110±5 Hz 80±5 Hz (horizontal)
adjustment (horizontal) 80±5 Hz (vertical)
110±5 Hz (vertical)

Cold min. limit value 70 Hz

Tension value accepted upon engine HORIZONTAL VERTICAL
overhaul Tension (Hz) ±5 Tension (Hz) ±5
Min. 80 Min. 88
Max. 100 Max. 100
Transmission


Clutch Wet type with multiple plates

Clutch Hydraulic
control

Gearbox 6 speed

Primary 33/61
drive

Final drive 15/43

Gearbox With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on the left side of the
type motorcycle

Transmission Gear ratios

1st 15/37

2nd 17/30

3rd 20/27

4th 22/24

5th 24/23

6th 25/22
Colours

Dark Stealth —
2K primer black 873.A002 (PALINAL)
Primer, Black Stealth (Black 94) 929.R223 (PALINAL)
Matt Clear Coat 2K 929.R223 (PALINAL)
Frame, Racing Black 43805 (INVER)
Rear subframe, Graphite Grey 36345 (INVER)
General


Motorcycle Total length 2235 ± 20 mm
dimensions

Total width 860 ± 20 mm

Total height 1192 mm ± 20 mm

Seat height 770 ± 20 mm

Minimum 130 ± 20 mm
ground
clearance

Front footpeg 306 ± 20 mm
height

Wheelbase 1580 ± 20 mm

Frame Type ALS450 steel tubular trellis

Subframe Type Cast aluminium

Steering head 28°
angle

Steering angle 34° RH/LH

Trail 130 mm

Front MARZOCCHI:
suspension hydraulic upside-down fork with external adjusters for rebound,
compression, and preload (for inner springs of fork legs).
Leg diameter: 50mm

Front wheel 120 mm
travel

Rear suspension SACHS:
The rear suspension uses a pressurised hydraulic monoshock absorber with
adjustable rebound and compression.
Spring preload remote adjustment.
Wheel travel: 120 mm.
Shock absorber stroke: 59.5 mm.

Front wheel rim 14-spoke, light alloy

Front wheel rim MT 3.50x17”
size

Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 17

Rear wheel rim 14-spoke, light alloy

Rear wheel rim MT 8.00x17”
size

Rear tyre size 240/45 - ZR 17

Type of tyres Radial tubeless tyres

Front brake Hydraulic, 2 callipers with ABS as a standard

Rear brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper with ABS as a standard

Engine Type Twin cylinder, four-stroke, 90° "L" type, longitudinal

Bore 106 mm

Stroke 67.9 mm

Displacement 1198.4 cu.cm

Compression 12.5±0.5:1
ratio

Max. power at 119 kW/162 HP at 9,500 rpm
crankshaft

Max. torque at 13 kgm/128 Nm at 8,000 rpm
crankshaft

Timing system Toothed belt type with two overhead camshafts, 4 valves per cylinder

Lubrication Forced lubrication by pump with two cooling radiators
system

Oil pump type Gear type, with bypass valve

Cooling system Liquid cooling with thermostat

Air filter One filtering element in the air-box

Crankshaft type One-piece
Dimensions
Warning
Failure to observe weight limits could result in poor handling and impair the performance of your
motorcycle, and you may lose control of the motorcycle.

Fuel, lubricants and other fluids Type cu.
dm(litres)

Fuel tank, including a reserve of Unleaded fuel with 95 RON fuel octane rating (at least) 17
5 cu. dm(litres) For the US market, unleaded fuel with 90 (RON+MON)/2 16 (USA)
fuel octane rating (at least).

Oil sump and filter SHELL Advance 4T Ultra 4.10

Front/rear brake and clutch SHELL - Advance Brake DOT 4 special hydraulic fluid
circuits

Protectant for electric contacts SHELL - Advance Contact Cleaner spray used to protect
electric systems

Front fork SHELL - Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA 720cc (per
leg) (*)

Cooling circuit ENI Agip Permanent Spezial antifreeze (do not dilute, use 2.5
pure)
(*) Value refers to the air column between oil free surface and sleeve end, with sleeve in fully lowered
position and without spring and preload tube inside fork leg.
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and
motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel
with ethanol content over 10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and
motorcycle components. Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% will make the warranty null and void.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF
or SG or higher service ratings as marked on the container.
Viscosity
SAE 15W-50
The other viscosity grades specified in the table can be used where the average ambient temperatures are
within the limits shown.
Engine tightening torque values

Thread Thread
Description Torque (Nm) Notes
length pitch

Head

Fixed and mobile tensioner pin M20x1 50 45 55 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Camshaft belt roller ring nut M17x1 71 64 78 GREASE B

Rocker arm shaft blanking plug M12x1.25 15 14 16 LOCK 2 or TB1324

LOCK 4 - Hold insert while
Temperature sensor on water union M12x1.5 23 20 26
tightening

Nut for head/cylinder stud bolt M10x1.5

GREASE C on nut underhead and
Snug torque 20
on stud bolt thread

Preload torque 40 38 42

Tightening torque 60 57 63

Camshaft cap retaining screw M8x1.25

Preload torque 10 9 11

Tightening torque 22.5 21 25 Apply engine oil

Coil retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Belt roller flange retaining screws M6x1 10 9 11

Head cover retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Exhaust manifold stud bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 5

Screw securing vacuometer to head
M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 2 or TB1324
(EU only)

Head union for canister (California
M6x1 5 4 6 LOCK 2 or TB1324
only)

Horizontal head air breather union M6x1 2.5 2 3 LOCK 2

Vertical head air breather blanking
M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 6
grub screw

Intake manifold retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Water temperature sensor M8x1.25 6 5 7

Screw securing water unions to Pre-applied threadlocker on new
M5x1 6 5 7
head part - LOCK 2 for reuse

Casing

Oil cartridge M16x1.5 11 10 12 Engine oil on seal

Nipple for oil cartridge M16x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Oil intake duct cap M16x1.5 24 21 27 LOCK 5

Oil cooler nipple M14x1.5 32 29 35 LOCK 5

Oil drain plug with magnet M12x1.5 20 18 22 TB1215

Gear sensor M12x1.25 12 11 13

Clutch casing oil channel blanking
M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
plug

Tapered plug M10x1 20 18 22 LOCK 5

Neutral sensor M10x1.5 10 9 11

Oil pump screw reduction bushing M10x1 LOCK 5

Clutch casing inner oil channel grub
M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
screw

Roller bearing bush hole blanking
M10x1.5 22 20 24 LOCK 2 or TB1324
tapered plug

Cylinder/head stud bolt M10x1.5 30 28 32 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Casing jointing screw in cylinder
M10x1.5
area

Preload torque 19 17 21 GREASE B on thread


Casing central jointing screw +
M8x1.25
swinging arm shaft

Preload torque 19 17 21 GREASE B on thread


Gear stopper lever retaining screw M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Special dowel for roller bearing bush M8x1.25 16 15 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Blow-by valve retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Secondary bearing (chain side)
M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
stopper screw

Primary bearing (clutch side)
M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
stopper screw

Casing jointing screw in idle gear
M6x1 10 9 11
shaft area

Casing outer jointing screw M6x1 10 9 11

Mesh filter cover TSPEI - TEF screws M6x1 10 9 11

Radial pick-up retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

FCC clutch recess screw with brass
M6x1 10 9 11
washer T=2mm

Blow-by valve upper shell screw M3 1.2 1 1.4 LOCK 5

Oil squirter under piston retaining
M5x0.8 8 7 9 LOCK 2 or TB1324
screw

Electric starter

Starter motor inner retaining TCEI - Pre-applied threadlocker on new
M6x1 10 9 11
TCEIF screw part - LOCK2 for reuse

Pre-applied threadlocker on new
Starter motor outer retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11
part - LOCK2 for reuse

Starter motor rear retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Idle gear shaft retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Connecting rods

FCC clutch primary sprocket
M24x1 190 171 209 GREASE B
retaining ring nut

Flywheel retaining nut M24x1 330 313 346 LOCK 5

Balancing plug M12x1.25 28 26 30 LOCK 5

Connecting rod bolt (Class 14.9) M10x1 GREASE B

Tightening torque at 50rpm 35

Pause of 2 seconds and 360°
loosening at 30rpm

Snug torque at 30rpm 20

Snug torque at 10rpm 35

Tightening of 65°±1° at 14rpm

Torque check 70 103

Crankshaft dowel M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5

Crankshaft drilled dowel M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5

Gear selector control

Gearbox drum positioning screw M16x1.5 30 27 33

Gearbox pawl screw M8x1.25 36 34 38 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Pawl positioner retaining nut M6x1 10 9 11

Gearbox pawl screw M6x1 16 15 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Timing system

Timing layshaft belt roller ring nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A

Camshaft gear nut M14x1 55 50 60 GREASE A

Fixed - mobile tensioner retaining
M8x1.25 25 22 28 GREASE A
nut

Carbon cover retaining screw M6x1 6 5.5 6.5

Plastic cover retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Carbon cover filter support retaining
M4x0.7 1.75 1.5 2
screw

Cover filter self-tapping screw 3.5 1.75 1.5 2

Covers

Water intake union M30x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Water delivery union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Wet clutch fluid filler cap M20x2.5 5 4.5 5.5

Soundproofing panel retaining screw M14x1.5 24 22 26 LOCK 5

Pick-up inspection screw M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Water pump cover plug M10x1 15 13.5 16.5

Clutch recess blanking plug M10x1 15 13.5 16.5

Oil duct blanking plug M10x1 15 13.5 16.5 LOCK 5

Water pump bearing retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Timing inspection cover TSPEI screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Generator stator retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324

Wet clutch cover screw M6x1 10 9 11

Special screw securing generator
M6x1 13.5 12.5 14.5
cover to stud bolt

Gearbox and clutch

Clutch drum nut M25x1.5 190 180 200 GREASE B

Wet clutch spring screw M6x1 10 9 11

Ignition

Spark plug M10x1 12 11 13

Screw securing rotor to flywheel M6x1 13 11 15

Oil pump

By-pass pump plug M15x1 17 15 19 LOCK 5

Oil pump retaining screw M8x1.25 26 23 29

Oil pump assembling screw M6x1 10 9 11

Oil pump retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11

Cylinders

Water delivery union M22x1.5 25 23 27 LOCK 5

Cylinders

Water circuit ties 2.5 2 3
Frame tightening torque values

Part Thread Nm Notes
(mm) ±10%
Tolerance

HEADLIGHT FAIRING

Mirror retaining screw M8x1.25 25

STAND

Lower screw securing side stand plate to shock M8x1.25 - GREASE B
absorber support - 7
Pre-tightening - 25
Tightening

Screws securing shock absorber support side stand M10X1.5 - GREASE B
plate to casing - 7
Pre-tightening - 45
Tightening

Screw securing stand sensor to stand pin M6x1 5 Pre-applied threadlocker

Nut securing stand to stand plate M8x1.25 20

Stand plate pin M8x1.5 25

CHAIN - FRONT SPROCKET

Sprocket retaining nut M25x1.5 186 ± GREASE B
5%

Front sprocket cover retaining screw M6x1 6 LOCK 2

LIGHTS

Screw securing headlight to headlight supporting M5x0.8 5 pre-applied threadlocker
subframes

Nut securing lower subframe to bottom yoke M6x1 8

Tail light - glove compartment unit retaining screw M6x1 8

Screws securing front side indicator to outer AF4 1.5
conveyor

Headlight cover retaining screw M5x0.8 2.5

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Stud bolt on instrument panel support clip M5x0.8 2

Screws securing instrument panel to support AF5 3

Nut securing instrument panel support to handlebar M5x0.8 6
U-bolts

Screws securing tank instrument panel to tank filler AF5 2
plug cover

FRONT FORK

Steering bearing ring nut M35x1 30 ± 5% GREASE B

Steering head locking screws on fork legs M8x1.25 22 ±5% GREASE B

Steering head central locking screw M8x1.25 22 ±5% GREASE B

Bottom yoke upper locking screws M8x1.25 22 ±5% GREASE B

Bottom yoke lower locking screws M8x1.25 22 GREASE B

Handlebar U-bolt locking screws M8x1.25 25±5% GREASE B

Screws securing handlebar lower U-bolts to steering M10x1.25 45±5% Pre-applied threadlocker
head

Headlight subframe support bracket-steering head M6x1 10
fastening pin

Steering limit stop adjuster lock nut M8x1.25 18 LOCK 2

Screws securing clutch cable ring to steering head M6x1 8 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screws securing brake cable ring to steering head M6x1 8 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screws securing brake hose guide to bottom yoke M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screws securing speed sensor hose guide to left fork M6x1 10
bottom end

Fork bottom end locking screws 10±5%

Fastener securing windscreen support to handlebar M6x1 7 GREASE B
upper U-bolt

ELECTRICAL - ELECTRONIC SYSTEM

Screw securing electrical component bracket to M8x1.25 24
engine

Screw securing electrical component box to support M8x1.25 24 Threadlocker on screw only
bracket

Screw securing electrical component support to M6x1 10 Threadlocker on screw only
Radiator support bracket

Screw securing radiator cowling to electrical M5x0.8 4
component support

Electrical component cover - support retaining M6x1 4
screws

Screw securing horn to battery support M8x1.25 14

Screw securing voltage rectifier to clip on electrical M6x1 8
component support

Screw securing hands free switch to frame M8x1.25 15 Pre-applied threadlocker

Fastener securing cables to remote control switch M6x1 5

Nut securing cable to starter motor M6x1 5 GREASE D

Screw securing speed sensor to rear calliper holder M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker
plate

Screw securing relay support to airbox M5x0.8 5

Ground cable on engine screw M6x1 10

Light switches retaining screws M4x0.7 1.3

Fastener securing cover support to electrical M5x1 4
component support

Front speed sensor retaining screw M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker

Power socket nut fastener M18x1 3.5

BRAKE SYSTEM: ABS

Left screw securing ABS control unit to bracket M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Rear screw securing ABS control unit to bracket M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Screw securing ABS control unit bracket to airbox M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker

ABS control unit unions M10x1 23

BRAKE SYSTEM: REAR BRAKE

Rear brake master cylinder retaining screw M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker

Brake draining union M10x1 23

Screw securing rear brake fluid reservoir to support M5x0.8 4

Screw securing brake fluid reservoir support to M5x0.8 4
footpeg holder plate

Screw securing rear hose clip to swinging arm M6x1 10

Screw securing rear brake hose guide to swinging M5x0.8 4 Pre-applied threadlocker
arm

Rear brake calliper retaining screw M10x1.25 44±5% GREASE B

BRAKE SYSTEM: FRONT BRAKE

Front calliper retaining screws M10x1.25 - GREASE B
Pre-tightening torque 2
Tightening torque 45±5%

Screw securing front brake master cylinder to M6x1 10
handlebar

Front/rear brake bleeding union M6x1 23

REAR SWINGING ARM

Eccentric hub screw M12x1.25 35±5% GREASE B

Swingarm shaft screw M15x1.25 72±5% GREASE B

Rear brake calliper holder plate pin M12x1.25 33±5% Pre-applied threadlocker

Upper and lower chain sliding shoe retaining screws M5x0.8 4 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing number plate light wire clip base to M4x0.7 1
swinging arm

HANDLEBAR - CLUTCH CONTROL

Clutch bleeding union M6x1 4

Clutch hose union M10x1 23

Clutch slave cylinder screw M6x1 10 seq. (1–2–3–4)

Throttle control retaining screw M6x1 6

Clutch master cylinder retaining screw M6x1 10 seq. (1 up-2–1)

Handlebar counterweight retaining screw M6x1 10

Throttle control retaining screw M6x1 10

Left-hand heated handgrip fastener M4x0.7 2.8

NUMBER PLATE HOLDER

Screws securing number plate holder and chain M8x1.25 40 Pre-applied threadlocker
guard to swinging arm

Screws securing number plate holder plate to M5x0.8 6
number plate holder

Splash guard retaining screw M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2

Number plate light retaining screw M4x0.7 2

REAR SUSPENSION

Adjuster securing shock absorber support to left M20x1 0.6 GREASE B
casing

Ring nut on adjuster grub screw (left-hand side) M20x1 100±5% GREASE B

Screw securing shock absorber support to left casing M10x1.5 45±5% GREASE B

Shims securing shock absorber support to right M20x1 0.6 GREASE B
casing

Ring nut on shim dowel (right side) M20x1 100±5% GREASE B

Screws securing shock absorber support to right M10x1.5 45±5% GREASE B
casing

Bushing securing suspension and shock absorber M10x1.5 60±5% GREASE B
linkages to shock absorber support

Nut securing suspension linkages to rocker arm M12x1.25 45±5% GREASE B

Screw securing shock absorber to rocker arm M10x1.25 45±5% GREASE B

Screw securing rocker arm to swinging arm M10x1.25 65±5% GREASE B

Screw securing shock absorber expansion reservoir M6x1 10
support to shock absorber support

Ties securing shock absorber expansion reservoir to 4
expansion reservoir support

Screw securing shock absorber preload adjuster to M6x1 10 LOCK 2
support

Screw securing shock absorber preload adjuster M5x0.8 4
support to frame

Screw securing shock absorber preload hose guide to M5x0.8 4
swinging arm

FRONT MUDGUARD

Screws securing mudguard to fork bottom end M6x1 5 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing front brake line clip to mudguard AF 3.5 0.5

COOLING

Screw securing fan and fan guard to fan support M4x0.7 1

Lower screw securing fan support to radiator M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1

Upper screws securing fan support and inner M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
conveyor to radiator

Inner conveyor - radiator - radiator cover retaining M5x0.8 3
screw

Upper screw securing radiator cover to radiator M5x0.8 3

Radiator cover - inner conveyor retaining screw AF 3.5 1

Lower rear screw securing radiator cover to radiator M5x0.8 3

Screw securing left inner conveyor to right inner M5x0.8 4
conveyor

Screw securing radiator, air conveyor and conveyor M6x1 6
cover support to frame bracket

Screw securing radiator support to frame M6x1 10

Separate union retaining screw M5x0.8 5 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing expansion reservoir to bracket M6x1 5 LOCK 2

Screw securing buffer to expansion reservoir M6x1 8

Water pipe clips on radiator unions - left side 3

Water pipe clips on radiator unions - right side 3

Clip on pump intake 3

Clip on thermostat outlet 3

Clip on horizontal and vertical head outlet 3

Clip on thermostat inlets 3

Clip on remote union 1.5

Clip on head breather pipes 1

Screw securing expansion reservoir bracket to M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker
vertical head

Screw securing splash guard support to inner right M5x0.8 4
and left conveyor

Screw securing splash guard support to bottom yoke M5x0.8 4

Water bleeder cap on left casing M10x1 19

FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS

Screws securing rider footpeg holder plate to M8x1.25 25
subframe

Rear footpeg fastener threaded pin M16x1.5 30 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing pillion rider footpeg spring plate to M6x1 10 LOCK 2
subframe

Rider footpeg protection screw M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Brake lever pin on footpeg holder plate M8x1 24 Pre-applied threadlocker

Stop switch on footpeg holder plate M8x1 5

Stop switch activation screw on brake lever M6x1 5

Brake lever adjuster locking nut M6x1 8

Brake master cylinder control rod locking nut M6x1 8

Gearchange lever pin on footpeg holder plate M8x1 24 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing gearchange rod joints to gear shift M6x1 10
lever / gearchange lever

Screw locking gearchange lever to pawl M6x1 10 Pre-applied threadlocker

Right nut locking joints to gearchange rod M6x1 5 LOCK 2

Left nut locking joints to gearchange rod M6x1 5 LOCK 2

REAR MUDGUARD

Screws securing rear mudguard to swinging arm M5x0.8 5 Pre-applied threadlocker

RH lower screw securing rear mudguard to swinging M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
arm

FRONT WHEEL

Brake disc retaining screw M8x1.25 30±5% LOCK 2

Front wheel nut M25x1.25 63±5% GREASE B

Tyre (angle) valve locking nut M8x1.25 9 LOCK 2

REAR WHEEL

Wheel retaining nut 48x1.5 230±5% GREASE 2

Rear wheel silentblock retaining nut M10x1 44 LOCK 2

Screw securing phonic wheel to disc M5x0.8 5 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing brake disc to shaft M8x1 27±5%

Rear valve M8x1.25 9

FUEL TANK

Screw securing tank to frame M6x1 10

Screw securing Bitron flange to tank M5x0.8 6

Hose guide retaining screw M5x0.8 5

Tank plug retaining screw M5x0.8 3

Fuel sensor ring nut retainer 8

EXHAUST

Nut securing exhaust pipe flange to vertical and M6x1 10
horizontal head

Nuts securing heat guard to vertical manifold M6x1 10

Vertical primary heat guard retaining screw M6x1 8 Pre-applied threadlocker

Lambda sensor fastener M12x1.25 25

Exhaust gas plug M10x1.25 25

Screw securing valve motor to support AF 4.5 3

Screw securing exhaust valve motor support to right M6x1 10
subframe

Screw securing silencer to bracket M8x1.25 20

Silencer clamp 18

Screw securing silencer support to footpeg holder M8x1.25 25
plate

Silencer front heat guard retaining screw M6x1 8

Silencer rear heat guard retaining screw M6x1 10

Exhaust valve cover retaining screw M6x1 8

FRAME

Frame-to-engine retaining nut M12x1.5 60±5% GREASE B

Adjuster M20x1 0.6 GREASE B

Ring nut on adjuster grub screw M20x1 100±5% GREASE 2

Screw securing tank buffer to compartment M6x1 10

Screw securing handle guide to glove compartment M8x1.25 20±5%

Screw securing latch to handle guide M6x1 10

Screw securing ring nut to handle unlock pin M5x1 10 LOCK 2

Seat lock nut M22x1.5 3

Screws securing glove compartment to subframes M8x1.25 20±5%

Screw securing subframes to frame M10x1.5 50±5% GREASE 2

Black Box support silentblock on left subframe M5x0.8 Tighten by hand

Nuts securing Black Box support to left subframe M5x0.8 2

Screw securing underseat compartment cover to M5x0.8 4
compartment

Screw securing hands free antenna to compartment M4x0.7 2

Screw securing radiator support bracket to frame M6x1 10

Screw securing wiring tie base to compartment AF4 2

Shock absorber preload adjuster support cover M5x0.8 4
retaining screw

Seat cover retaining screw M5x0.8 4

OIL COOLER

Screw securing oil hose clip plate to casing M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Screw securing oil cooler bracket and horizontal M8x1 20
manifold heat guard to horizontal head

Screw securing oil cooler to bracket M6x1 6 Pre-applied threadlocker

Fastener securing pressure switch to oil cooler 24 Lubricate with engine oil

Screw securing horizontal manifold heat guard to M5x1 5
exhaust protection

Fastener securing nipple to oil cooler M14x1.5 23 LOCK 1

Fastener securing pipe to nipple M16x1.5 18 Lubricate with engine oil

AIR INLET/OIL BREATHER

Screw securing wiring protection to airbox upper half M5x0.8 5

Screw securing oval intake funnel to airbox lower M5x0.8 5
half

Screw securing air conveyors to airbox M5x0.8 3.5

Screw securing map sensor bracket to airbox upper M6x1 10
half

Fastener securing Map sensor to bracket M6x1 10 LOCK 2

Screw securing air temperature sensor to left M4x0.7 0.5
conveyor

Blow-by pipe clip 1.5

Screws securing 10V voltage rectifier bracket to M6x1 8
airbox

Coil bracket on coil retaining screws M5x0.8 5

Coil bracket on airbox retaining screws M5x0.8 3

FUEL SYSTEM

Screw securing throttle body to intake funnels M5x0.8 3.5 Pre-applied threadlocker

Clip securing throttle body to intake ducts 2.5

Fastener securing injectors to funnels M5x0.8 5

Nuts securing throttle control cable to throttle body M6x1 2.5

Fastener securing canister to fuel tank M5x0.8 4

FAIRINGS

Screws securing plug cover to plug M5x0.8 2 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screws securing plug cover and central cover to plug M5x0.8 2 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screws securing central cover to tank M5x0.8 2 two front screws and one rear
screw with pre-applied
threadlocker

Rear retaining screws securing side cover to tank M5x0.8 2 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing plug cover to central cover M5x0.8 0.33

Screw securing side cover to central cover M5x0.8 0.33

Screw securing air inlets to clip on tank plug cover M5x0.8 2 Pre-applied threadlocker

Screw securing air inlet conveyor to conveyor M4x0.7 1.5
support

Screw securing left and right conveyor support to M5x0.8 0.33
tank side cover

Screw securing left and right conveyor covers to left M5x0.8 5
and right conveyor support

Screw securing side belly fairing to central belly M5x0.8 4 Pre-applied threadlocker
fairing

Left side belly fairing, radiator cowling, central belly M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
fairing retaining screw

Right side belly fairing, radiator cowling, central belly M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
fairing retaining screw

Screw securing left-hand side belly fairing to M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
electrical component support

Screw securing right-hand side belly fairing to M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
electrical component support

Left-hand side belly fairing, electrical component M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
cover, electrical component support retaining screw

Right-hand side belly fairing, electrical component M5x0.8 4 LOCK 1
cover, exhaust protection retaining screw
Diagnosis special tools

PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE

28620.441A PC HASP DDS2 wrench

97900.0252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0)

97900.0254 Diagnosis and power supply cable

97900.0255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN)

97900.0256 Power supply cable from DDS battery
Frame special tools


80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench

88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting

88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug

88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool

88713.2409 Ball bearing installation tool

88713.3220 Engine repair work bench

88713.3927 Engine support
103

88713.3526 Frame ring nut wrench

88713.1068 Roller bearing installation tool

88713.1515 Frame/engine support

88713.3204 Marzocchi fork overhaul tool

88713.3203 Traction bar for fork overhaul

88713.1072 Big end bearing driving tool

88713.3501 Tank plug tightening wrench
Engine special tools


88713.0869 Water pump front seal installation tool

88713.0870 Water pump front seal counter-washer installation tool

88713.0944 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting

88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover

88713.1805 Driving pulley tightening tool

88713.1806 Camshaft pulley (Z=20) tightening tool

88713.1821 Tensioner pin wrench

88713.1832 Engine repair work bench

88713.2861 Seal ring installation tool

88713.1920 Tool to install O-rings on engine block stud bolts

88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller

88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC)

88713.2087 Gauge to check Top Dead Centre (TDC)

88713.2376 Wrench to block head nuts

88713.2103 Bearing surface for head installation

88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide

88765.1657 Timing check tool

88713.2834 Snap ring installation tool

88713.2870 Con-rod guiding tool

88713.2877 Spark plug wrench

88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.3219 Reaction tool for pulley tightening

88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate

88713.3352 Clutch plate positioning tool

88713.3367 Flywheel wrench

88713.3406 Primary sprocket ring nut wrench

88713.3408 "F clutch housing reaction tool

88713.3417 Reaction wrench

88713.3497 Wrench to tension the belt mobile tensioner

88713.5749 Crankcase half assembly cap

88713.3521 Seal ring installation tool

88713.4411 Insert

88765.1000
88765.1005 Fork feeler gauges
88765.1006

88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer

88765.1518 Valve lift gauge

88765.1623 Timing pulley positioning tool

88713.3407 Bushing (gear sensor)

88713.3734 Wrench for tensioner tensioning
1 Transport packaging integrity visual check (where applicable);

2 Transport packaging removal (where applicable);
3 Motorbike integrity visual check;
4 Check of the supplied kit completeness (refer to the parts list supplied together with the kit);
5 Supplied kit and vehicle parts (ex. handlebar) assembly;
6 Battery start-up and fitting on the vehicle;
7 Tyre pressure check (see vehicle technical specifications);
8 Final drive correct tensioning check;
9 Brake and clutch fluid check and coolant check (top-up if necessary);
10 Engine oil level check (top-up if necessary);
11 Lighting, turn indicators and warning horn check; headlight beam height adjustment check;
12 Active and passive keys and RH/LH steering lock operation check;
13 Front and rear wheel shaft tightening check (see vehicle technical specifications);
14 Brake calliper retaining screws tightening check (see vehicle technical specifications);
15 Fuel filling up until the reserve warning light turns off (approx. 5 litres);
16 Engine stop switch, side stand switch and clutch lever switch operation check;
17 Final inspection and road test (safety devices and electric-fan correct operation check);
18 Error memory reading with DDS 2.0 and check of Software version update on control units;
19 Check for available technical updates (if any) and recall campaigns on DCS;
20 Clean the motorcycle;
21 Motorbike warranty activation and on-board documentation filling in (Warranty General Terms and
Conditions);
22 Showing motorbike functions to the Customer and providing the supplied documentation;
23 Heated handgrips correct operation check;
24 Headlight fairing assembly;
25 Side pannier lock correct assembly check;
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer

List of operations and type of intervention km. x1,000 1
(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval *)
mi. x1,000 0.6

Months 6

Check engine oil level •

Check brake and clutch fluid level •

Check tyre pressure and wear •

Check the drive chain tension and lubrication If necessary, contact dealer for adjustment •

Check brake pad wear. If necessary, contact dealer for replacement •
* Carry out the maintenance operation upon the first reached interval (km, mi or months).
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the Dealer

Km. x1,000 1 15 30 45 60
List of operations and type of intervention Time
(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval *) (months)
mi. x1,000 0.6 9 18 27 36

Reading of the error memory with DDS and check of software version update on
• • • • • 12
control units

Check whether there are technical updates and recall campaigns • • • • • 12

Change engine oil and filter • • • • • 12

Clean the engine oil mesh filter assembly • -

Check and/or adjust valve clearance • • -

Change timing belts • • 60

Replace the spark plugs • • -

Clean the air filter • • -

Change the air filter • • -

Check brake and clutch fluid level • • • • • 12

Change brake and clutch fluid 36

Check brake disc and pad wear. Replace, if necessary • • • • • 12

Check the proper tightening of brake calliper bolts and brake disc carrier bolts • • • • • 12

Check front and rear wheel nuts tightening • • • • • 12

Check tightening of frame to engine fasteners • • • • -

Check wheel hub bearings • • -

Check and lubricate the rear wheel shaft • • -

Check the cush drive damper on rear sprocket • • -

Check the proper tightening of secondary drive front and rear sprocket nuts • • • • • 12

Check final drive (chain, front and rear sprocket) and sliding shoes wear • • • • 12

Check final drive chain tension and lubrication • • • • • 12

Check steering bearings and lubricate, if necessary • • -

Change the front fork fluid • • -

Visual check of front fork and rear shock absorber seals • • • • • 12

Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side and central stand (if
• • • • • 12
any)

Visual check of the fuel lines • • • • 12

Check rubbing points, clearance, freedom of movement and positioning of hoses
• • • • • 12
and electric wiring in view

Lubricate the levers at the handlebar and pedal controls • • • • 12

Change coolant • 48

Check the coolant level and circuit for damage • • • • • 12

Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • 12

Check the battery charge level • • • • • 12

Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand sensor, front and
• • • • • 12
rear brake switches, engine kill switch, gear/neutral sensor)

Check lighting, turn indicators, horn and controls • • • • • 12

Reset the Service indication through the DDS • • • • • -

Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (ex. ABS and
• • • • • 12
DTC), electric fans and idling

Softly clean the motorcycle • • • • • 12

Fill out that the service was performed in on-board documentation (Service
• • • • • 12
Booklet)
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
The adjuster (1) located on the lower connection holding the shock absorber to the swinging arm adjusts
the damping during the rebound phase (return).
Knob (2), on the motorcycle left side, adjusts the shock absorber external spring preload. Turn adjuster (1)
clockwise to stiffen the damping H; turn it counter-clockwise to soften it S.
STANDARD setting from the fully closed position (clockwise):
Important
The knob (3) located on the expansion reservoir of the shock absorber adjusts the damping during the
compression phase. Turn adjusters (1) or knobs (2) and (3) clockwise or counter-clockwise respectively to
stiffen or soften the damping or the preload.
STANDARD setting:
from fully closed (clockwise) loosen:
adjuster (1) by 12 clicks;
knob (2) FULLY OPEN (counter clockwise);
adjuster (3) by 25 clicks.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with gas under pressure and may cause severe damage if taken apart by
someone who is unskilled.
Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock
absorber spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all
times. You may find that rebound damping needs adjusting as well.

Front fork

Range Standard Sport use Comfort use Rider + passenger

Rider only Compression 0÷3 1.5 1 2 1.5

Rebound 0÷3 1.5 1 2 1.5

Preload 0 ÷ 15 0 7 0 10

Rear shock absorber

Range Standard Sport use Comfort use Rider + passenger

Rider only Compression 0 ÷ 40 25 6 35 20

Rebound 0 ÷ 24 12 2 12 12

Preload 0 ÷ 54 0 25 0 40
Adjusting the front fork
The front fork used on this motorcycle has rebound (return), compression and spring preload adjustment.
Adjustment is done by external screw adjusters:
1 for rebound adjustment;

2 for inner spring preload adjustment;
3 for compression adjustment.
Put the motorcycle on the side stand and make sure it is stable.
Turn knob (1) at the top of each fork leg to adjust rebound damping.
Turn the adjuster (3) on the bottom of each fork leg bottom end with a flat-blade screwdriver to adjust the
compression damping setting.
By turning the knob and the adjuster screw (1) and (3) you will hear some clicks; each click corresponds to
a damping setting.
The stiffest damping setting is obtained with the adjuster turned fully in to the "0" position.
Starting from this position, turning counter clockwise, you can count the turns.
To change preload of the spring inside each fork leg, turn the hex. adjuster (2) with a 22 mm hexagon
wrench, starting from the fully open position (clockwise). From reference (A), every full turn clockwise
corresponds to 1 mm of spring preload, up to a maximum of 15 mm, corresponding to 3 full turns.
STANDARD settings from completely closed are as follows:
compression:
1 turn and a half;
rebound:
1 turn and a half.
Spring preload: FULLY OPEN (counter clockwise).
Warning
Regulate the adjusters on both legs to the same positions.
Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footpegs can be adjusted to suit
the preferred riding position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows: hold the linkage (1) and slacken the
counter nuts (2) and (3).
Note
Nut (2) features a left-hand threading.
Fit an open-end wrench to hexagonal element of linkage (1) and rotate until setting pedal in the desired
position.
Tighten both check counter nuts onto linkage.
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Loosen lock nut (4).
Turn pedal stroke adjusting screw (5) until pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten the counter nut (4).
Verify, by acting manually on the pedal, that there is a play of about 1.5÷2 mm before starting the braking
operation.
If not, modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode.
Slacken off the check nut (7) on the cylinder pushrod.
Screw the rod into the fork (6) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten lock nut (7) and check play again.
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
Lever (1) disengages the clutch. It features a dial adjuster (2) for lever distance from the twistgrip on
handlebar.
The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2).
Turn clockwise to increase lever distance.
Turn the adjuster counter clockwise to decrease lever distance.
When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the drive wheel is
disengaged.
Using the clutch properly is essential to smooth riding, especially when moving OFF.
The position of the front brake lever (3) can be adjusted in the same way.
Attention
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when motorcycle is stationary.
Adjusting the throttle cable
The throttle grip in all steering positions must have free play, measured on the periphery of the flange of
the grip, of 1.5÷2.0 mm.
If necessary, adjust using the adjusters (1) and (2) located on the steering tube on the right side of the
motorcycle.
Adjuster (1) adjusts the throttle opening control, while adjuster (2) adjusts the throttle closing control.
Note
The throttle cables can be easily recognized since they are marked in different colours:
- the throttle opening cable features a white marking;
- the throttle closing cable features a yellow marking.
Slip the rubber gaiters (3) off the adjusters and loosen the check nuts (4).
Adjust both adjusters by the same amount: turn clockwise to increase free play and counter clockwise to
reduce free play. When finished, tighten the lock nuts and refit the protection gaiters (3) to the adjusters.
Periodically check the condition of the outer sheath of the throttle opening (1) and closing cables (2). The
plastic covering should show no signs of pinching or cracking.
Lubricate the ends of the inner cables with the specified grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel
excessive resistance or stiffness, replace the cable.
To lubricate the throttle grip, it is necessary to slide off the protection cover (A), loosen the screws (7) and
remove the covers (5) and (6) of the throttle grip.
Lubricate the ends of the cable and the pulley (B) with the recommended grease.
When refitting the control, make sure that the cables are correctly positioned in the pulley (B).
Place the covers (5) and (6) in the reference hole of the handlebar.
Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% to fasten covers (5) and (6).
Checking rear brake pad wear
Loosen screws (2) and remove the rear brake calliper (1).
Check brake pads wear through the inspection hole in the callipers.
Change both pads if friction material thickness of even just one pad is about 1 mm.
Warning
Friction material wear beyond this limit would lead to metal support contact with the brake disc thus
compromising braking efficiency, disc integrity and rider safety.
Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove split pin (3) from the pad retaining pin (4).
Slide pad retaining pin (4) outwards.
Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Disengage worn pads (5) from spring (6).
Insert new worn pads (5) and spring (6).

Fit the pad retaining pin (3) and fasten it with safety split pin (3).
Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the brake pads apart.
Fit the rear brake callipers over the disk.
Apply the recommended grease to the screws (2).
Tighten rear brake calliper screws (2) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 5%.
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check that the fluid level inside reservoir is between the MIN and MAX marks.
If this is not the case, unscrew the reservoir cover (6) and top up.
Warning
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the motorcycle, follow the instruction indicated in sections
"Refitting the front brake system" and "Removing the complete rear brake control", and remember to
tighten the rear brake calliper screws to the specified torque upon refitting.
Tighten the retaining screws (2) to the specified torque of 44 Nm ± 5%.

Checking brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental
contact, wash thoroughly with water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake
must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Check brake pads wear through the inspection hole in the callipers. Change both pads if friction material
thickness of even just one pad is about 1 mm.
Warning
Friction material wear beyond this limit would lead to metal support contact with the brake disc thus
compromising braking efficiency, disc integrity and rider safety.
Remove the callipers by loosening the screws (1) retaining the front brake calliper to the fork leg.
Remove the safety split pins (2).
Remove the worn pads (3).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance.
Fit new pads (3) with the relevant safety split pins (2), push the calliper pistons fully inside their seats by
widening the pads.
Fit the front brake callipers on the relevant discs.
Apply the recommended grease to the screws (1).
Start screws to secure the callipers to the fork legs.
Note
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid
pressure.
Check that the level in the master cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark.
If necessary, top up as follows.
Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is levelled.
Remove the cover (4) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (5) by loosening the screws (6).
Top-up with specified fluid until reaching the MAX. mark.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the calliper screws (1) to a torque of
45 Nm ± 5%.
Adjusting the chain tension
Make the rear wheel turn until you find the position where chain is tightest.
Set the motorcycle on the side stand.
Push belt down to the measurement point and then release it. Measure the distance between the "aperture"
upper profile and the pin centre. Such distance must be: 9 ÷ 11 mm.
Important
If the drive chain is too tight or too slack, adjust it so that tension reading will fall within specified range.
To adjust the tension remove the rear splash guard.

Slacken off the two screws (1) that secure the rear wheel hub to the swinging arm.
Fit the pin wrench no. 88713.1038 inserting its tooth in the eccentric hub (2).
Rotate the eccentric hub (2) to obtain the correct chain tension.
Turn counter clockwise to tighten the chain; clockwise to loosen (from chain side view).
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to early wear of the transmission components.
If the screws (1) are removed, lubricate with specified grease underside and thread, then tighten the
screws (1) to a torque of 35 Nm ±5% proceeding with sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
The correct tightening of the fixing screws of the eccentric hub is essential for the safety of the rider and the
passenger.
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head
bearings requires adjustment. Proceed as follows:
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
Slacken the clamp screws (2) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
Using the special tool no. 88713.1058 lock the ring nut (3) to 30 Nm ±5%.
Push the steering head against ring nut (3), apply specified grease and tighten screw (1) to 24 Nm ±5%
and screws (2) to 20 Nm ±5%.
Filling the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the clutch system fluid tank (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Fill the reservoir with specified fluid taken from an intact container.
Important
During the operation, fluid level must remain at a suitable level at all times. The end of the transparent
plastic hose must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever several times to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleeding tool to the bleed valve (4).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Pump with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (4) making sure that the level does not fall below the
MIN mark.
Repeat the last operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles. If you do not
have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) as outlined in the
draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid flows out of
the bleed valve (4).
Pull the lever fully and then loosen the bleed valve by at least 1/4 of a turn.
Wait for a few seconds; then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (4).
Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Close the bleed valve (4) to 4 Nm ±10% and install the protection cap.
Top up the fluid level to approximately 3 mm above the MIN mark of the reservoir.
Refit the cover (1) with the membrane from the clutch system fluid tank (2) by screwing the screws (3).
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Remove the cap to expose the bleed valve (4).

Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (4).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid flows out.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and
insert the other end of the tubing in a container for old clutch fluid placed on the floor.
Unscrew the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn.

Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been drained.
To help fully drain the circuit, it is recommended to remove the clutch slave cylinder.
Undo the screws (5) and slide out the clutch slave cylinder (6).
Push the internal piston (A) to force out all the fluid from inside the unit.
Make sure the anti-rotation pin (8) is fitted on the clutch pushrod (7).
Proceed as follows in case the anti-rotation pin (8) has been removed from the clutch pushrod (7).
Turn the clutch pushrod (7) until the axis of the anti-rotation pin (8) positioning hole is horizontal, as shown
in the figure.
Grease the anti-rotation pin (8) and insert it into the clutch pushrod (7) hole.
Insert the anti-rotation insert (9) fully home into the clutch pushrod (7) by matching the anti-rotation pin
(8) with the slots (B) on the insert (9).
Note
The tab of the insert must be inwards (casing side).
In this case the insert is marked in the figure with letter (C).
Turn the clutch pushrod (7) counter clockwise until the hole axis of the anti-rotation pin (8) is aligned with
the centreline of the casing cover machined surface (D), as shown in the figure.
Insert the clutch slave cylinder (6) into the pushrod (7) and bring it fully home on the anti-rotation insert
(9).
Note
While inserting the clutch slave cylinder, make sure to match the insert tab with the cylinder unit slot.
The slot is marked with letter (E)
Fix the clutch slave cylinder (6) by starting the screws (5).
Note
To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and
tighten the retaining screws alternatively in steps.
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%, in the sequence 1 - 2 - 3 - 1.

Tighten screw (4) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10%.
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Fill the reservoir (2) with new fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurised.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip.
Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container placed on the floor.
Open the bleed valve (4) to allow fluid to flow out.
Attention
During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the
circuit.
Allow the new fluid to flow from the bleed valve (4) until it changes colour.
Re-tighten the bleed valve (4) and tighten to 4 Nm ±10% and restore the correct level of fluid in the
reservoir.
Changing the fluid in the rear brake circuit
Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).

Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel).
Undo the two fastening screws (9) securing the rear brake calliper (10) to the calliper holder bracket, and
remove the brake calliper (10).
Remove ties (A) and hose clip (B) by loosening screw (C).
Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (8) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container placed on the floor.
Unscrew the cover (6) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (7).
Fill the reservoir (7) with new oil up to the MAX mark.
Operate the brake pedal several times to pressurise the circuit.

Once the circuit is pressurised keep the pedal pressed down.
Open the bleed valve (8) to allow fluid to flow out.

The pedal is at the end of travel when it is in the lower position.
Now, screw bleed valve (8) to 23 Nm ±10% and release the pedal; press the pedal again.
Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above
the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (C).

Refit clip (B) by tightening screw (C) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10%.
Block the rear brake hose, the tail light wiring and the speed sensor with new ties (A).
Insert the rear brake calliper (10) on the brake disc, aligning it with the holes of the calliper mounting
bracket.
Apply recommended grease on screws (9) and tighten them to 25 Nm ±5%.
Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
Refit the exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Warning
Remove the cover (1) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following
operations.
Move the brake calliper pistons back: to carry out this operation undo the fixing screws (4) of the callipers
on the fork bottom end and push both pads of every calliper, taking them apart; during this operation, be
careful with the fluid level, which must always be sucked out each time it flows back in the reservoir.
Once that all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and that all the fluid in the tank has been
sucked out, connect to the bleed valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed
on the floor.
Fill the reservoir (2) with new oil up to the MAX mark.
Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the left-hand calliper (as seen by the rider) (5) and then take the lever through
the whole stroke to allow fluid to flow out.
The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to 23 Nm ±10% and then release the lever.
Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a
pressure is detected in the brake system.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above
the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Change coolant
Warning
Make sure the engine is cold before proceeding. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could
lead to burns from hot coolant or scalding steam.
Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings).

Remove the air conveyor covers (Removing the air filters).
Place a container under the engine and set the motorcycle on its side stand.
Remove the expansion reservoir filler plug (1).
Slacken clamp (2), disconnect hose (3) and allow all coolant to drain in a container.
Loosen plug (4) from fluid drain hole located on the pump cover.
Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Screw plug (4) in the fluid drain hole with a suitable seal and collect the new seal (5).
Tighten plug (4) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).
Connect the hose (3) and tighten clamp (2) to a torque of 1 Nm ±10%.
Fill the circuit with new coolant through the remote filler plug (6).
Wait several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages.
Start up the engine and wait for the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes.
Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts automatically
without warning and could cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the circuit for possible leaks.
Top up the coolant through the expansion reservoir filler to bring the level up to the MAX. mark. Tighten
the plug (1) of the expansion reservoir.
Refit the air conveyor covers (Refitting the air filters).

Refit the tank fairings (Refitting the tank fairings).
Check the coolant level
Check the coolant level contained in the expansion reservoir, on the right-hand side of the vehicle at the
intervals specified in the “Scheduled maintenance chart”.
The coolant level must be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
Remove the filler plug (1) and top up with new coolant to the specified level.
Refit the plug (1).
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at -20 °C), the recommended coolant
should be mixed with water in the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35÷40% of the volume;
WATER: 65÷60% of the volume.
Important
Very hard water with a high mineral salt content can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of antifreeze to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.
Important
Solutions with less than 30% of antifreeze will not provide sufficient protection against corrosion.
Changing and cleaning the air filters
The air filter must be replaced at the intervals specified in the "Scheduled maintenance chart".
Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Working on the right side of the vehicle, loosen screws (1) securing intake duct (2) to airbox and screw (3)
securing it to radiator; collect washer (4).
Remove intake duct (2).
Pull out the filter cartridge (5) from the seat in the airbox.
The filter can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or replaced, if necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up
of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get
into the engine and cause damage.
Correctly install the cartridge in the airbox seat.

If seal (6) has been replaced, fit the new seal in the relevant seat (A) of conveyor (2) by positioning it so
that tooth (B) of gasket (6) is aligned with the recess (C) of RH conveyor (2), as shown in the figure.
Note
When installing the gasket, pay attention not to form wrinkles.
Start screws (1) and screw (3) with washer (4).
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10% and screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more
frequently.
To check the air filter in the horizontal belt cover refer to the relevant section.
Undo the fixing screws (8) of the external central cover (9) and remove it from the central part.
Loosen the screws (11) fixing the horizontal belt cover (7), and remove it from the horizontal piston-
cylinder assy.
Loosen the screws (12) and remove the filter (10). Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (8) and (11).
Once the check has been carried out, refit filter (10), start (without tightening) screws (12), and refit the
horizontal timing belt cover (7) on the horizontal piston-cylinder assembly by tightening the screws (11) to
a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) for plastic covers and 6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max. 6.5 Nm) for
carbon covers.
Fit the central timing belt cover (9) and tighten screws (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm)
for plastic covers and 6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max. 5.6 Nm).

Refit the seat (Refitting the seat)
Replace the spark plugs
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode:
an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good condition and running at the right temperature.
Spark plug type

Make: NGK
Type: MAR9A-J.

Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
Remove spark plug cables (1) and (2) of both heads.

Use tool part no. 88713.2877 and replace the spark plugs.
Important
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate heat rating or different thread length. The spark plug must be
tightened correctly.
Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).

Change timing belts
To replace the timing belts follow the procedure described under paragraphs “Removing the mobile
tensioner/timing belt” and “Refitting the timing belts”.
Checking valve clearance
To check valve clearance, it is necessary to have access to the cylinder head covers and then remove the
components listed below.

Remove blow-by hose (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant).
Loosen the clips of the hose that connects the two radiators and of the hose that connects the RH radiator
to the union (Removing the cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the water radiators leaving them connected to the cooling system (Removing the water radiators)
Loosen the timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the coils.
Remove the cylinder head cover (Removing the camshafts).
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of the centre cap (2) over the end of the crankshaft.
Fit the tool handgrip no. 88713.0123 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft
so that the valve on which the check is carried out is in rest position.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between rocker arm slider (A) and the lowest side of
the cam (B) to measure the clearance. The clearance must be within the specified limits:

Opening rocker arm

INTAKE:

Operation 0.13÷0.18 mm

Inspection 0.10÷0.25 mm

EXHAUST:


With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between closing rocker arm slider (C) and the
highest side of the cam (D) to measure the clearance.

Closing rocker arm

INTAKE:



EXHAUST:


If detected values exceed the specified limits, replace opening and/or closing shim, as described in
paragraph “Removing the valves”, with one featuring an adequate thickness to obtain the specified
clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring from 1.8 to 3.45 and closing rocker arm shims from 2.2 to 4.5 are
available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Remove the handle of tool no. 88713.0123 from the generator cover hole.
Make sure that the O-ring (3) is installed on the cover (2).
Refit cover (2) and tighten the two retaining screws (1) to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the cylinder head cover (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the coils.
Fix the timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refit the water radiators on the frame (Refitting the water radiator).
Tighten the clips of the hose that connects the two radiators and of the hose that connects the RH radiator
to the union (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions).
Refill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Refit the blow-by hose (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Note
This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off) because the oil in these conditions is
more fluid and comes out faster and completely.
Remove the drain plug (3) with gasket (A) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Remove any metal deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3). Clean the thread of the drain plug
and apply THREE BOND TB1215. Refit the drain plug complete with gasket (A) to the sump.
Position seal (A) so that the side with the square edge (B) is facing the chain side crankcase half.
Tighten the drain plug (3) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).

Filter cartridge
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool part no. 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it.
Fit a new cartridge (4) using tool no. 88713.2906 having care to lubricate the seal with engine oil.
Note
As an alternative, it is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the
recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Screw it into seat and tighten it to 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm).
Oil mesh filter
Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter.
Loosen the four screws (5) of the external cover (6) and remove it.
Remove the filtering element (7) and check the O-rings (8) and (9), and replace them if necessary.
Clean the filter with fuel and compressed air. Take care not to damage the mesh.
Position O-ring (9) on the crankcase and O-ring (8) on the mesh filter (7).
Refit the mesh filter (7).
Apply a bead of sealing compound to cover (6) as shown in the figure.
Tighten screws (5) retaining external cover (6) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Remove the filler plug (2) and carry out refilling with the specified oil type up to reaching the notch that
identifies the MAX level in the sight glass (1).
Refit the filler plug (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Check that there are no oil leaks and that the engine oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel
switches off a few seconds after starting up the engine. If not, stop the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level.
Check engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level.
Oil level must be checked with the vehicle perfectly upright and the engine cold.
Oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks.
Top up if the level is low.
Remove the filler plug (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Refit the filler plug (2).
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Start the screws (2) in the rear-view mirrors (1) as shown in the picture.
Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.

Removing the rear-view mirrors
Loosen screws (2) and remove rear-view mirrors (1).

Refitting the tank fairings
Proceed in the same way to reassemble the left-hand half-fairing.
- spacers (18);
- rubber elements (20).
Fit the springs (19) on the central cover (22) in the points indicated, inserting the teeth (H) in the seats (L).
Apply threadlocker to the screws (14).
Fit the fairing (22) on the tank starting the screws (14) together with the nylon washers (15).
Tighten to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the left-hand tank fairing (21) starting the screws (16) together with the washers (17).
Apply threadlocker to the screw (14) and start it with the nylon washer (15).
Tighten the screw (14) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10% and the screws (16) to a torque of 0.33 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the right-hand tank fairing (13) starting the screws (16) together with the washers (17).
Apply threadlocker to the screw (14) and start it with the nylon washer (15).
Tighten the screw (14) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10% and the screws (16) to a torque of 0.33 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the vibration damping pads (G) on the master instrument panel (F).
Insert the spacers with collar (J) on the vibration damping pads (G).
Fit the vibration damper (20) on the tank filler plug cover (23) in the indicated point.
Important
During this operation, pay the utmost care in order to ensure that the vibration damper (20) is perfectly
fitted in its seat.
Fit the master instrument panel (F) on the tank filler plug cover (23), inserting the tab (L) inside the
vibration damper (20).
Secure the master instrument panel (F) to the cover (23) tightening the screws (M) to a torque of 2 Nm ±
10%.
Position the tank filler plug cover on the vehicle and connect the connector to the instrument panel, fitting it
until it "clicks" into its holder.

Fit the tank filler plug cover (23) starting the screws (25) with the spacers (24) and the screws (16).
Tighten the screws (25) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10% and the screws (16) to a torque of 0.33 Nm ± 10%.
Apply rubber-specific lubricant to the rubber elements (D) of the tank central cover (22).
Fit the front right-hand half-fairing (1) inserting the tabs (C) in the rubber elements (D), pushing them
downwards (blue arrows) and driving the half-fairing itself fully home on the rear side of the motorcycle
(red arrows).
Lock the front right-hand half-fairing (1) forcing the pin (A) inside the threaded insert of the pin (B)
available on the right-hand water radiator.
Attention
Before pressing on the pin, ensure that it is centred with the threaded insert hole. Only after that it is
possible to apply a moderate and progressive pressure until the component "clicks".
Before tightening the screws that secure the front left-hand half-fairing (12) and the right-hand one (1),
proceed as follows:
Visually check the distance between the front left-hand half-fairing (12) and the tank central cover (22),
throughout the upper mating profile between the components.
Visually check the distance between the front right-hand half-fairing (1) and the tank central cover (22),
throughout the upper mating profile between the components.
In case any mating defects are found, it is necessary to move the front half-fairings (12) and (1), forward
or backward (depending on needs), until the half-fairings (12) and (1) are at the same distance from the
tank central cover (22).
After tightening, make sure again that the distance between the front half-fairings (12) and (1) and the
tank cover (22) is the same. Should that not be the case, repeat the operations previously described.
Fasten the front right-hand half-fairing (1) by tightening the screw (3) to a torque of 0.33 Nm ±10%.
Proceed in the same way to refit the LH half-fairing.

Fit the right-hand air inlet (7), secure it to the tank filler plug cover (23) starting the screws (6) and (9).
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10% and the screws (6) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Proceed in the same way for the left-hand air inlet (8).
Reassembling the front half-fairings
Fit the clips (2) onto the front right-hand half-fairing (1).
Join the right-hand support (4) to the front right-hand half-fairing (1) and secure it starting the screws (5).
Note
In order to correctly fit the right-hand support, the tooth of the front right-hand half-fairing must be
inserted in the slot available on the support.
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%

Fit the clips (10) onto the front right-hand half-fairing (1).
Proceed in the same way to reassemble the left-hand half-fairing.

Disassembling the front half-fairings
Loosen the screws (5) and separate the right-hand support (4) from the front right-hand half-fairing (1).
Proceed in the same way to disassemble the left-hand half-fairing (1).

Removing the tank fairings
Remove the right-hand air inlet (7) loosening the screws (6) and (9).
Loosen the screw (3) securing the front right-hand half-fairing (1).
Release the tabs from the grommets and shift the front RH half-fairing (1) onwards to remove it.
Proceed in the same way to remove the left-hand half-fairing (12).

Undo the screws (16) and (25) securing the tank filler plug cover (23), without removing it.
Repeat this operation on the other side.
Lift the tank filler plug cover (23) until reaching the wiring of the instrument panel.
Disconnect the wiring from the instrument panel.
Remove the tank filler plug cover (23) from the vehicle and collect the screws (25) and the spacers (24).
Remove the left-hand tank fairing (21) loosening the screws (16) and (14): collect the washers (17) and
(15).
Remove the right-hand tank fairing (13) loosening the screws (16) and (14): collect the washers (17) and
(15).
Remove the tank fairing (22) loosening the screws (14): collect the nylon washers (15).
Refitting the seat
Reassembling the seat
Position the cover (2) on the seat and secure it (on lower side), starting the screws (4) at the plates (5).
Note
Apply the specified grease to the latch hole.
Fit the seat (1) inserting (on front side) the tabs (B) under the rubber blocks (C) of the glove compartment;
push the seat rear end until you hear the latch clicking.
Removing the seat
Insert the key into the lock, turn it clockwise and disengage the seat.
Remove the seat (1) pulling it backwards until sliding it out of the front retainers.
Disassembling the seat
Remove the seat and turn it upside down.

Loosen the special screws (4), then rotate the plates (5) and open the side ends of the seat cover (2) in
order to remove it.
Refitting the rear mudguard
Fit rear mudguard (8) on swinging arm and start screws (9) with the recommended threadlocker.
Screw (9) inside the lower hole of rear mudguard (8) must be also fitted with washer (R).
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the rear mudguard
Loosen screws (9) and remove the rear mudguard (8) from the swinging arm.
Refitting the front mudguard
Warning
Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake hoses fouling
the wheel when braking.
Fit the spacers (6) on the screws (5) after having applied recommended threadlocker and position them as
shown in the figure.
Position the front mudguard (1) and start the special screws (5).
Note
The hose guide is fastened to front mudguard by means of a shear rivet with two washers in-between.
Version with carbon mudguard
Fit the grommet (A) of front brake hose and the speed sensor cable inside the clip (4) as shown in the
figure.
Close the clip (4) and tighten the screw (7) to a torque of 0.5 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the front mudguard
Undo the screw (7) and remove the front brake lines (A) from the hose grommet (4).
Undo and remove the special retaining screws (5): collect the spacers.
Remove the front mudguard (1).
Attention
The version with carbon mudguard is fitted with nylon washers instead of spacers.
Note
On US versions, a cat's eye is mounted on the front mudguard.
Note
The hose guide is fastened to front mudguard by means of a shear rivet with two washers in-between.
Reassembling the belly fairing
Fit the oil cooler protection (7) inserting its tooth (A) into the slot (B) present on the electrical component
support (S).
Fit the clips (11) onto the bracket (13), positioning them as shown in the figure.
Apply rubber-specific lubricant to the pin (E) of bracket (13).

Insert the pin (E) into the vibration damper (F) of oil cooler.
Fit the bracket (13) on the electrical component support and tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 4 Nm ±
10 %.
Fit the clips (9) onto the left-hand belly fairing (2), positioning them as shown in the figure.
Position the left-hand belly fairing (2) fitting the slot (E) inside the electrical component support, as shown
in the figure.
Apply the specified threadlocker to the screws (3) and (12).
Fit the nylon washer (4) on the screw (3).
Secure the left-hand belly fairing (2) to the electrical component support starting the screw (3) on the rear
side and the screw (12) on the upper one.
Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (5) and (8).
Secure the left-hand belly fairing (2) to the oil cooler protection (7), starting the screw (8) on the lower
side and the screw (5) on the front one.
Fit the clips (9) on the right-hand belly fairing (1), positioning them as shown in the figure, and refit the
left-hand belly fairing (2) following the same procedure.
Tighten the screws (3), (5), (8) and (12) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10%, to secure the belly fairings (1) and
(2) and the oil cooler protection (7).
Removing the belly fairing
Undo and remove the screws (5) and (8) securing the oil cooler protection (7) to the right-hand belly
fairing (1) and the left-hand one (2).
Remove the left-hand belly fairing (2) by loosening the screws (3) with the relevant washers (4) and the
screws (12).
Follow the same procedure to remove the right-hand belly fairing (1).
Undo the screws (14) and remove the bracket (13) from the electrical component support.
Remove the oil cooler protection (7) from the electrical component support (S), releasing the tooth (A) from
the slot (B) and the element (C) from the tabs (D).
Refitting the electrical component support
Make sure that the clips (1), (9) and (24) are present on the support (5).
Ensure that the rubber blocks (6) and (8) and the cable ring (7) are fitted.
Check that the voltage regulator (3) and the solenoid starter (18) are positioned on the support (5) with the
relevant wirings as shown in the figure.
The horn (22) must be secured to the support (5) by tightening the screw (25) to a torque of 18 Nm ±
10%.
Check the presence of the cable ring (13) on the cover (12).
Fit the cover (12) on the support (5) tightening the screws (23) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10%.
Position the electrical component support (5) on the vehicle fitting it in the retaining pin (B) of radiator
support bracket.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screw (21).
Start the screw (11) with the washer (10) and the screw (21) with the spacer (20). Tighten the screw (11)
to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Connect the connector (A) of the horn (22) to main wiring.
Mat (15) must be positioned as shown in the figure.

Refit the following elements located inside the electrical component support:
- the battery (14);

- the voltage regulator (3);
- the solenoid starter (18);
Once the battery has been installed, fit the mounting bracket (4) tightening the screws (32) to a torque of
4 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the electric component support
Remove the belly fairing (Removing the belly fairing)
Remove the following elements located inside the electrical component support:
- the battery mounting bracket (4) and the battery (14);

- the voltage regulator (3);
- the solenoid starter (18);
Remove the connector (A) of the horn (22) from main wiring.
Undo the screw (25) and remove the horn (22) from the vehicle.
Loosen the screw (11) and the screw (21) and collect the washer (10) and the spacer (20).
Remove the electrical component support (5).
Take care not to damage the main wiring branch and the other wirings located inside it.
For the correct positioning refer to the tables available in this section.
Table Z
Table Y
Table X
Table W
Table V
Table U
Table T
VERSION WITH CANISTER
Table S
Table R
Table Q
Table P
Table O
Table N
Table M
Table L
Table K
Table J
Table H
Table G
Table F
Table E
Table D
Table C
Table B
Table A
Routing of wiring on frame
The routing of the electric system wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating
failures when riding. The tables below indicate the origin points ("0" points) for cable correct re-positioning
and pipe clamp positioning points.
Each figure includes the references to the tables where the operator carrying out the repair will be able to
follow the path of the concerned cable or the electric item to which cable must be connected.

Position Table Description

1 Table A Point 0

2 Table B Vertical coil connector

3 Table B Vertical lambda sensor connector

4 Table B Vertical head upper spark plug

5 Table B Vertical lambda sensor

6 Table C Vertical MAP sensor

7 Table C Horizontal MAP sensor

8 Table D LH switch cable

9 Table D Clutch microswitch cable

10 Table D Satellite navigation system presetting connector

11 Table E Left front turn indicator connector cable

12 Table E Air temperature sensor connector cable

13 Table E Air temperature sensor

14 Table F Left fan radiator connector

15 Table G Low / high beam connector

16 Table G Parking light connector

17 Table H Handlebar instrument panel connector

18 Table J Injection control unit connector 1

19 Table J Injection control unit connector 2

20 Table J ABS control unit connector

21 Table J Hands Free connector

22 Table K Ride-by-wire relay (ETV)

23 Table K Fan relay

24 Table K Hands Free Relay

25 Table K Injection relay

26 Table L Tank instrument panel connector wiring

27 Table L/ Table J Tank instrument panel connector

28 Table M Horizontal coil / front speed sensor / fan radiator wiring

29 Table M Right turn indicator wiring

30 Table M Front stop light / right switch wiring

31 Table N Horizontal head upper spark plug

32 Table N Horizontal coil

33 Table N Right fan radiator connector

34 Table N Front speed sensor connector

35 Table O Right turn indicator connector

36 Table O RH switch cable

37 Table O Front brake microswitch cable

38 Table P Main wiring central branch

39 Table Q Rear 12V power socket connector

40 Table Q Data Acquisition / Diagnosis

41 Table Q Left rear turn indicator connector

42 Table Q Left rear fuse box

43 Table Q Ground terminal

44 Table Q Right rear turn indicator connector

45 Table Q Right rear fuse box

46 Table Q Anti-theft system presetting connector

47 Table R Vehicle control unit (BBS) connector

48 Table R Rear speed sensor connector

49 Table R Gear sensor connector

50 Table R Number plate light connector

51 Table R Exhaust valve motor connector

52 Table R Rear stop light connector

53 Table R Rear stop light

54 Table R Fuel pump connector

55 Table S Throttle position sensor motor / ride-by-wire (TPS/ETV) connector

56 Table T Vertical injector connector

57 Table T Horizontal injector connector

58 Table T Timing/rpm sensor connector

59 Table T Throttle handgrip position sensor (APS) connector

Table T Throttle handgrip position sensor (APS) connector - CANISTER VERSION -

60 Table U Engine temperature sensor

61 Table V Hands Free - immobilizer connector

62 Table W Wiring ground

63 Table W Horn

64 Table W Horizontal lambda sensor connector

65 Table W Generator connector

66 Table W Rectifier connector

67 Table W Horizontal lambda sensor

68 Table W Oil pressure switch

69 Table X Starter contactor wiring

70 Table X Starter contactor - starter motor cable

71 Table X Starter contactor - battery positive cable

72 Table X ABS positive cable

73 Table X/ Table W Ground - battery negative cable

74 Table X Side stand switch

75 Table K Tank electric filler plug presetting connector

78 Table Y Heated handgrip terminal wirings

79 Table Y Heated handgrip control unit

80 Table Z Left rear wiring connection

81 Table Z Rear power socket wiring

82 Table Z Tail light wiring

83 Table Z Rear left turn indicator wiring

84 Table Z Rear right turn indicator wiring

87 Table Y Fuel level sensor connector

88 Table B Vertical head lower spark plug

89 Table N Horizontal head lower spark plug
Rear right fuse box key (2)

Pos El. item Rat.

8 Diagnosis/recharge 7.5 A

9 Navigator/Alarm 7.5 A

10 Black Box System (BBS) 10 A

11 Black Box System KEY 10 A

12 Heated handgrips 5A
ABS fuses
This vehicle has two separate fuses for ABS, one of 30 A and the other of 25 A.
Rear left fuse box key (1)

Pos El. item Rat.

3 Throttle opening relay (ETV) 15 A

4 Injection relay 20 A

5 Key-sense 15 A

6 Engine control unit (ECU) 5A

7 Instrument panel 10 A
Wiring diagram cable colour codes
B Blue
Bk Black
Bn Brown
G Green
Gr Grey
Lb Light blue
O Orange
P Pink
R Red
V Violet
W White
Y Yellow
Key to wiring diagram
1 Right-hand switch
2 Immobilizer
3 Hands Free Relay
4 Hands free
5 LH fuse box
6 RH fan
7 LH fan
8 Fuel pump relay
9 Ride-by-wire relay (ETV)
10 Injection control unit (EMS)
11 RH fuse box
12 Data Acquisition / Diagnosis
13 Starter motor
14 Fused solenoid
15 Battery
16 Wiring ground
17 Regulator
18 Generator
19 Fuel pump
20 Fuel level
21 Rear right turn indicator
22 Rear light
23 Rear left turn indicator
24 Vehicle control unit (BBS)
25 Anti-theft system alarm
26 Exhaust valve motor
27 Gear sensor
28 Rear speed sensor
29 ABS control unit
30 Throttle handgrip position sensor (APS)
31 Throttle position sensor / ride-by-wire (TPS/ETV) motor
32 Timing/rpm sensor
33 Vertical MAP sensor
34 Horizontal MAP sensor
35 Engine temperature
36 Air temperature sensor
37 Vertical lambda sensor
38 Horizontal lambda sensor
39 Oil pressure switch
40 Rear stop light
41 Side stand switch
42 Clutch switch
43 Front stop light
44 Main vertical injector
45 Main horizontal injector
46 Horizontal coil
47 Vertical coil
48 Secondary air actuator
49 Left-hand switch
50 Horn
51 Front speed sensor
52 Front left turn indicator
53 Instrument panel on handlebar
54 Instrument panel on tank
55 Front right turn indicator
56 Heated handgrip control unit (optional)
57 Low / high beam
58 Parking light
59 Heated handgrips
Rectifier-regulator
The regulator (1) is located in the electrical component compartment.

The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current
produced by the generator.
It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the generator in accordance with
battery voltage.
If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore optimum operating conditions of
the battery itself.
While, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will be lower.
Note
Check the charging current by using the “DDS” diagnosis instrument.
Removing the regulator
Remove the electric component support (Removing the electric component support).
Loosen the two retaining screws (1) of regulator (2) and remove them together with the regulator.
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage
to the regulator.
Refitting the regulator
Position the regulator (2) on the support.

Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage
to the regulator.
Refit the electric component support (Refitting the electric component support).
Regulator fuse
The 30 A fuse, positioned inside the solenoid starter, on the right-hand side of the rear subframe, protects
the electronic regulator.
Remove the left-hand belly fairing (Removing the belly fairing).
Remove the fuse cap (A) to reach it.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).

Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the
electric system or even cause fire.
Refit the left-hand belly fairing (Refitting the belly fairing).

Generator
It is equipped with a 12 V, 500 W generator, consisting of a fixed element (stator, A) located in the
generator cover and of a movable element (rotor, B) fastened to the crankshaft.
To check the battery charging system for faults, use the "DDS" diagnosis instrument and follow the
instructions given in the paragraph "Checking the battery charging system".
The absolute value of voltage measured across the terminals of two of the three yellow cables (the
measured value will be the same whichever combination of cable is used) must be within the range
indicated in the table below (ambient temperature: 20 °C).
Important
Before testing, disconnect the generator wiring from the electrical system when the ignition key is set to
OFF.
Significantly lower values can be due to:

- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited windings.
In the above cases the whole generator assembly (rotor and stator) should be replaced. If checks have a
favourable outcome, reconnect the generator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure that no
cables are damaged or disconnected.
Removing the generator

Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover).
Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the clutch slave cylinder (Removing the clutch slave cylinder).
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the water pump-radiator hose (Removing the water pump).
Disconnect the cables of the generator-side electric system (Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Remove the stator (A) and the rotor (B).

Refitting the generator
Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) and the generator cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Connect the cables of the generator-side electric system (refer to the table in chapter “Routing of wiring on
frame”).
Refit the water pump-radiator hose (Refitting the water pump).

Refit the pump-cylinder hoses (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the clutch slave cylinder (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder).
Refit the front sprocket cover (Refitting the front sprocket cover).
Fill the system with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Battery
Battery safety rules
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge,
batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for battery use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if
the valve cover has been tampered with, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool
place.
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling
the vehicle.
Removing the battery
Undo the screws (1) and remove the battery mounting bracket (2).
Slide out the battery (3) from its housing and, always starting from the negative terminal (-), loosen the
screws (4).
Remove the positive cable (5), the ABS positive cable (6) from the positive terminal and the negative cable
(7) from the negative terminal.
Remove the battery pad (6) from battery support (7).
Remove the battery pad (8) from battery support.
Refitting the battery
Position the battery pad (8) on battery support.

Fit the battery (3) in the suitable housing connecting first the cable (7) to the negative terminal with screw
(4).
Connect the positive cable (5) and then the ABS positive cable (6) to the positive terminal with screw (4).
Tighten the terminal screws (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% and apply grease onto the battery terminals to
prevent oxidation.
Install the battery (3) on its support, fit the mounting bracket (2) and tighten the screws (1) to a torque of
10 Nm ±10%.
Topping up the electrolyte
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules).
The electrolyte in the battery is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin
because it contains sulphuric acid. Wear gloves and, if necessary, protective clothing, a face-mask and
goggles when adding electrolyte. If the fluid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with fresh
water. If it comes into contact with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an
ophthalmologist. In the event of accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk, and continue
with milk of magnesia, a beaten egg or vegetable oil. Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other
heat source to get near the battery, as it produces explosive gases. When recharging or using the battery
indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during
recharging. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Place the battery on a flat surface. Remove the protective film (1).
Warning
Make sure that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag. Remove the cap strip (3) from the container
(2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the
battery. Push the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the liquid to
flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least
twenty minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Fit the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) to the battery, and ensure the
caps plug off all filler holes.
3 -12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 30 min.
Over 12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 1 hour.
Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph
"Recharging the battery".
Note
When using an automatic battery charger, ensure that the charger current (ampere) is equal to or higher
than the value of the standard charging system (STD) indicated on the battery itself.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Recharging the battery
Refer to the label on the battery showing the inspection intervals in order to determine when to test the
voltage.
Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more
than one month could damage it. Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.
Warning
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Stop charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the
touch. Leave to cool before resuming charging.
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
To charge the battery, proceed as follows.

Type of charging Volt Ampere (A) Time (Hours)

Normal 12 1.8 5-10

Fast 12 9 1
Use fast charging in emergencies only.
Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5 V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17 V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to maximum 25 V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, restore a voltage of 16-17 V; otherwise replace the battery.
Checking the battery charging system
To check the current flow in the charging circuit, use the “DDS" diagnosis instrument, which is equipped
with clamp-type amperemeter.
With the DDS diagnosis instrument you can determine the engine rpm required for the generator to
produce sufficient current to charge the battery, feed the injection/ignition system and all the electrical
equipment on the motorcycle. When applied to a cable, the clamp-type ammeter detects the magnetic field
generated by the current passing through that cable.
The tester performs an automatic calibration routine using its own transducer. If the measured current is a
positive quantity, it means that generator is feeding all electric items and charging the battery at the same
time. A negative value means that charging system is not powering the loads and a significant amount of
current must be supplied by the battery, which is discharging at the time of the measurement.
Alternatively, a multimeter (Diagnosis instruments) can be used, connect the multimeter probes to the
battery terminals, select the DC scale on the multimeter and make sure there are 14.5 V ± 0.5 at an engine
speed of 3,000 rpm.
Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be
reversed, giving rise to incorrect diagnosis.
Solenoid starter
Remove the protection cover (A).
Undo the screws (2), taking care to collect the spring washers (3).
Remove the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (4) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (5).
Remove solenoid starter (1) sliding it upwards.
Checking operation of the solenoid starter
Ensure that the terminals are not oxidised.

Position the solenoid starter-starter motor cable (4) and the solenoid starter-battery cable (5) on the
solenoid starter terminals.
Start screws (2) with spring washers (3).
Apply water repellent spray on the screw area.
Fasten solenoid starter (1) to battery mount by fitting it into tabs (B).
Refit the protection cap (A), inserting it in the solenoid starter guides until securing it on the teeth on both
sides of the solenoid starter.

Starter motor
Power: 0.7 kW/12 V

Direction of rotation:
counter clockwise viewed from power take-off side.
The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue. In case of
malfunction, ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no
sign of oxidation. If the terminal is properly tightened and free from oxidation, remove the starter motor
and test it under no-load conditions (no load applied to the shaft). Secure the starter motor to a test
bench, making sure not to damage the casing. Use a fully charged 12 V battery for the test. Use battery-
motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the same cross-section as the cable on
the motorcycle itself. Connect the negative terminal of the battery to an unpainted area of the starter
motor casing and the positive terminal to its electrical terminal. The shaft of the starter motor should rotate
freely and at a high speed. Take care not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.
Removing the starter motor
Loosen the securing screw (1) and if necessary, remove the insert (2).
Loosen the securing screws (3): the lower screw (3) secures the ground cable (6) too.
Position toothed washer (7) and washer (8).
Note
The starter motor screws are originally fitted with threadlocker.
Remove the starter motor and its gasket (5).

Refitting the starter motor
Visually check the gasket (5) for wear and replace it if necessary.
Position the gasket (5) and starter motor on the crankcase. Start the screws (3) with specified threadlocker;
the lower one (3) with ground cable (6), toothed washer (7) and washer (8).
Tighten screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm.
Fit insert (2) if removed, in the crankcase and tighten the securing screw (1) and tighten it to a torque of
10 Nm ±10%.
Place starter motor/solenoid starter cable (4) and tighten nut to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Important
Fill the protection cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor.
The key components of the electric starting system are a solenoid and a starter motor powered by the
battery.
Aligning the headlight
The motorcycle must be perfectly upright with the tires inflated to the correct pressure and with a rider
seated, perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
Position the motorcycle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the
headlight and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Note
If possible, perform this check in dim light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not be
more than 9/10 of the height from the ground of the headlight centre.
Note
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light beam.
Please adapt said procedure to the provisions in force in your own country.
The vertical alignment of the headlamp can be manually adjusted by turning screw (1).
Turn the screw (2) to set beam height.
Changing the headlight bulbs
In this vehicle it is not possible to replace a single bulb since it is provided with LEDs.
It is necessary to replace the entire light assembly.
The only possible operation is the replacement of the high beam assembly.
Replacing the headlight
Remove windscreen (1) pulling it upwards.
Disconnect connectors (2).
Unscrew the nuts (3) securing the front light assembly to the bottom yoke, collect the washers (4).
Remove the complete front light assembly sliding it upwards and releasing it from the pins (5) of support
bracket.
Release the headlight (6) from the support (10) loosening the screws (7).
Separate the high beam from the headlight loosening the screws (9).
Refitting the headlight
Refit the high beam on the headlight tightening the screws (9).
Fit the headlight (6) on the support (10) tightening the screws (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% with
recommended threadlocker.
Refit the front light assembly positioning the lower side on the rubber blocks (11) and inserting the pins (5)
into the holes (12) of the support bracket.
Secure the front light assembly tightening the nuts (3) together with the washers (4), to a torque of 8 Nm
±10%.
Connect connectors (2).

Fit the windscreen by pushing downwards to insert the stud-bolts (13) in their relevant seats (14).
Indicators
Lights control Headlight control
This function allows you to reduce current consumption from the battery, by automatically managing
headlight switching-off.
Upon Key-On, low and high beams are Off.
Upon engine starting, the low beam will automatically turn on; from this time onwards, "standard"
operation will be enabled: you can switch from low to high beams (using button (3)) or make a "FLASH"
(using button (3)).
If engine is not started upon Key-On, lights can nevertheless be enabled by pressing the button on high /
low beam left-hand switch (button (3)); if pressed once, low beams will be enabled; from this time
onwards, this button can be used to enable (and disable) high beams (if engine is not started within 60
seconds, the active low or high beam will be disabled).
If the headlight was turned on before starting the engine with the procedure described above, the headlight
turns off automatically when starting the vehicle and will turn ON again when the engine has been
completely started.
Turn indicators (Automatic Reset)
Turn indicators are automatically controlled by the instrument panel.

After activating one of the two turn indicators, user can reset them using the reset button (4).
If turn indicator is not manually "reset", instrument panel will automatically disable the turn indicator after
having travelled 500 m (0.3 miles) since it was activated.
The counter for the distance travelled for automatic deactivation is activated at speeds below 80 Km/h (50
mph).
If the calculation of the distance for automatic deactivation is activated and then the motorcycle exceeds a
speed of 80 km/h (50 mph), the calculation is interrupted and will restart when the speed falls below the
indicated threshold.
"Parking" function
This function allows enabling the "PARKING" mode.

The "PARKING" function activates the front and rear parking lights when the motorcycle is turned off, so it
is visible when parked.
The function is activated by pressing the button (2) for 3 seconds during the first 60 seconds after the
motorcycle was turned off.
Once this function has been enabled, the indication will be shown on the round display for 5 seconds, and
lights will stay on for 2 hours. After this time, they will automatically turn off.
To interrupt this function, a Key-On / Key-Off is required.
Note
If there is a sudden interruption in the battery while the function is active, the instrument panel will disable
the function when the voltage is restored.
Immobilizer system
To increase protection against theft, motorcycle features an electronic engine locking system
(IMMOBILIZER) which is automatically enabled upon every Key-Off.
An electronic device used to modulate the signal issued upon key-on by a special antenna positioned under
the seat is housed inside key cover.
The modulated signal is the "password", different upon every Key-On, used by the control unit to
acknowledge the key. Engine can be started only after key acknowledgement.
Immobilizer unlock procedure
This procedure makes it possible to "temporarily" turn on the motorcycle if the HF (Hands Free) System is
not working.
Note
The PIN CODE function must be activated by the user by entering your 4-digit PIN in the instrument panel,
otherwise the motorcycle cannot be started temporarily in the case of a malfunction.
Warning
The motorcycle owner must activate (store) the PIN code; if there is already a stored PIN, contact an
Authorised Ducati Dealer to have the function "reset". To perform this procedure, the Authorised Ducati
Dealer may ask you to demonstrate that you are the owner of the motorcycle.
Other functions
This function allows enabling and adjusting the heated handgrips.

To enable the "H.GRIPS" control menu for the heated handgrips, press the Start button (5) on the RH
switch.
Note
The Start button (12) controls the heated handgrips only when the engine is running.
The display layout could be of two types:
- with Menu 2 enabled;

- with Menu 2 disabled;
Once the menu is activated, press the same button several times to select the desired indication ("OFF",
"LOW", "MEDIUM" or "HIGH") which becomes bigger.
If "OFF" is selected and bigger, the heated handgrips are switched off.
If "LOW" is selected and bigger, the heated handgrips are activated in their lowest setting.
If "MEDIUM" is selected and bigger, the heated handgrips are activated in their intermediate setting.
If "HIGH" is selected and bigger, the heated handgrips are activated in their highest setting.
Select the desired setting then leave button (5) undisturbed; after 3 seconds with no controls, the
instrument panel automatically quits the indication and maintains the last stored condition.
When quitting the handgrips setting menu, the instrument panel warns the user if heated grips have been
activated by turning the specific icon yellow (at the top RH side if Menu 2 is enabled or at the top LH side if
Menu 2 is disabled), and showing the setting ("LOW", "MEDIUM" or "HIGH").
Note
The heated handgrips actually activate and warm up only with engine running.
Note
This means that if heated handgrips are enabled and engine stops, the heating is "temporarily" disabled but
the ON indication is still active. Heating will automatically turn on when engine is started again.
Warning
Ducati recommends NOT to use the heated handgrips when ambient temperature is above 15° ÷ 20°C
since they might get damaged.
Note
Handgrip heating requires a high current draw which, at low engine rpm, might result in the battery getting
soon flat. If the battery is not fully charged (voltage below 11.9 V) handgrip heating is disabled to ensure
engine start-up ability; it will automatically activate again when battery voltage is above the specified
value.
PIN CODE changing procedure
This function allows changing your own 4-digit PIN CODE.

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "PIN CODE"
function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page.
Note
If, when accessing this function, "INSERT NEW PIN" and a string of dashes "- - -" are displayed, function is
not active as PIN CODE has never been entered. Enter your PIN code with the "PIN enabling" function.
If, when accessing this function, the round display shows "MODIFY PIN CODE" and "OLD PIN" and four
dashes " - - - -" highlighted in green, a PIN CODE is already set; so the 4-digit code must be entered.
Note
To change the PIN code, you must remember the already stored PIN.
Now you will have to enter the "old" PIN (OLD PIN).
Press the reset button (4); each time button (2) is pressed, the highlighted number increases from "0" to
"9" and then goes back to "0"; to confirm the desired number press the reset button (4).
Repeat the procedure until entering the four digits; press the reset button (4) again to confirm.
If the entered code is not correct, the instrument panel will show again the four dashes " - - - - " to allow
user to repeat the code entering procedure.
While if the entered code is correct, "CORRECT" will be automatically highlighted in green for approx. 2
seconds and then the four dashes " - - - - " will be automatically highlighted close to "NEW PIN"; now you
can enter the "new" 4-digit code.
Press the reset button (4); each time button (2) is pressed, the highlighted number increases from "0" to
"9" and then goes back to "0"; to confirm the desired number press the reset button (4).
Repeat the procedure until entering the four digits; press the reset button (4) again to confirm. "MEMORY"
is automatically highlighted.
To memorise the new entered PIN code, keep the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds, with "MEMORY"
highlighted in green.
"MEMORIZED" will be displayed for approx. 2 seconds to confirm that the new PIN was correctly
memorised.
"EXIT" will then be automatically highlighted.
To quit the setting function, press the reset button (4) with "EXIT" highlighted.
Note
You can change your PIN CODE for an unlimited number of times.
ABS disabling function
This function allows disabling and enabling the ABS system.

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "ABS"
Function status is highlighted on the display (green if ON or yellow if OFF); use buttons (1) or (2) to move
the left arrow on the new setting, and keep the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds to confirm.
Once these 3 seconds have elapsed, system will check that the request was completed successfully; during
this check time "PLEASE WAIT..." will appear. Once check time has elapsed, the new setting will be
displayed.
Note
If the disabling request was not completed successfully, repeat the procedure. If the problem persists,
contact a Ducati Dealer or Authorised Service Centre.
Setting the Unit of Measurement
This function allows changing the units of measurement of the displayed values.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu , use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "SET UNITS"
Use buttons (1) or (2) to select the value for which you wish to change the unit of measurement and press
the reset button (4) again.
Instrument panel displays the values that can be changed; use buttons (1) or (2) to select the value you
wish to change, and press the reset button (4) again.
"SPEED" setting
This function allows to change the units of measurement of speed (and hence even the ones of distance
travelled).
The currently set unit of measurement is highlighted in green on the display; use buttons (1) or (2) to
move the left arrow on the new setting, and press the reset button (4) to confirm.
If setting is stored, when main screen is displayed again, the new units of measurement (if any) will be
shown.
1) Km/h: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- TOT, TRIP1, TRIP2, TRIP FUEL: Km

- Vehicle Speed and AVERAGE Speed (SPEED AVG): Km/h
2) mph: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- TOT, TRIP1, TRIP2, TRIP FUEL: miles

- Vehicle Speed and AVERAGE Speed (SPEED AVG): mph.
"TEMP" setting
This function allows you to change the units of measurement of the temperature.
shown.
3) °C: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- Engine coolant temperature and T_AIR: °C
4) °F: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- Engine coolant temperature and T_AIR: °F

"CONS." setting
This function allows changing the units of measurement of the Average and Instant Fuel Consumption.
shown.
5) Km/L: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- CONS. and CONS. AVG.: Km/L
6) L/100: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- CONS. and CONS. AVG: L/100
7) mpgal UK: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- CONS. and CONS. AVG: mpgal UK
8) mpgal USA: if this unit is set, the following values will have the same units of measurement:
- CONS. and CONS. AVG: mpgal USA
Clock adjustment function
This function allows adjusting clock To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons
(1) or (2) to select the "CLOCK" function and press the reset button (4) to confirm.
In the following screen "SETTING" will be highlighted in green (A); now, to edit the time displayed on
handlebar instrument panel, keep the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds and "SETTING" will turn grey
(B).
Clock Setting
When accessing this function "AM" will start flashing; press button (2) to make "PM" flash; press button (2)
to go back to previous step (if time is 00:00 when shifting from AM to PM, 12:00 will be displayed);
press button (1) to shift to hour setting, hours will start flashing;
each time button (2) is pressed, counter will increase in steps of 1 hour;
keep button (2) pressed to make counter increase in steps of 1 hour per second (hours will not flash while
button is pressed)
Press button (1) to shift to minute setting, minutes will start flashing; each time button (2) is pressed,
counter will increase in steps of 1 minute;
keep button (2) pressed to make counter increase in steps of 1 minute per second.
If button (2) is kept pressed for more than 5 seconds, steps increase in steps of 1 every 100 m (seconds
will not flash while button (2) is pressed).
Press button (1) to complete setting, "SETTING" will be highlighted in green (C) again on tank instrument
panel.
To quit, select "EXIT" and press the reset button (4).
Note
In case of battery off, when the Voltage is restored and upon next Key-On, clock will have to be set again
(it will automatically start counting from 00:00).
Battery voltage indicator (BATTERY)
This function describes battery voltage indicator operation. To gain access to this function display the
"setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "BATTERY" function and press the reset button (4) to
confirm.
The information will be displayed as follows:
- if battery voltage is between 11.8 V and 14.9 V the reading will be displayed steady;
- if battery voltage is between 11.0 V and 11.7 V the reading will be displayed flashing;
- if battery voltage is between 15.0 V and 16.0 V the reading will be displayed flashing;
- if battery voltage is equal to or lower than 10.9 Volt, "LOW" will be displayed flashing and the
"Vehicle/engine diagnosis - EOBD" light will come on;
- if battery voltage is equal to or higher than 16.1 Volt, "HIGH" will be displayed flashing and the
"Vehicle/engine diagnosis - EOBD" light will come on.
Note
If the value is not available, a string of dashes "- - -" will be displayed.
Stored LAPs erasing function
This function allows erasing stored LAPs. To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use
buttons (1) or (2) to select the "LAP" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page.
Use buttons (1) or (2) to select "LAP DATA" and press the reset button (4) again to access the page
displaying the previously recorded times.
Highlight "ERASE" and use button (1) or (2) to scroll the stored LAPs to be erased, then keep the reset
button (4) pressed for 3 seconds. Now "PLEASE WAIT" will appear on display left side and then "ERASE OK"
will be shown for 2 seconds to confirm that data have been correctly erased. Stored data will no longer be
present and "NO LAP" will be displayed.
Recorded LAPs displaying function
This function allows displaying recorded LAPs. To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu,
use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "LAP" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page. Use
buttons (1) or (2) to select "LAP DATA" and press the reset button (4) again to access the page displaying
the previously recorded times.
The information will be displayed as follows:
- number of the lap being displayed on the top left (ex: LAP N.01);
- on the bottom left a rectangle containing lap time (TIME), the max. speed reached in the concerned lap
(SPEED MAX) the max. rpm value reached in the concerned lap (RPM MAX);
- on the right side, you can use buttons (1) or (2) to highlight "NEXT" (each time the reset button (4) is
pressed, next lap is displayed) and "PREV" (each time the reset button (4) is pressed, previous lap is
displayed);
Note
The MAX stored speed is the one shown on the display (increased by 5%).
If no data are present inside memory, "NO LAP", with timer indicating "- - - -", the MAX rpm value = "- - -
- -" and MAX speed = "- - - - " will be displayed.
Note
If no data are present inside memory, "NO LAP", with timer indicating "- - - -", the MAX rpm value = "- - -
- -" and MAX speed = "- - - - " will be displayed.
LAP recording function
This function describes the "LAP" time recording procedure:

If the function was Enabled (see "LAP enabling / disabling" ) lap time can be recorded as follows:
- the first time rider presses the flash (3) button, the "timer" of the first lap starts and "LAP START" will
be displayed flashing on the instrument panel for 4 seconds, then the "previous" screen will appear
again;
- from this moment onwards, every time the flash button (3) is pressed, the display automatically shows
for 10 seconds the number and time of the lap, then goes back to the "previous" screen.
30 laps max. can be recorded. If memory is full, whenever the flash button (3) is pressed, the instrument
panel does not record any lap time and "LAP FULL" will be displayed flashing for 4 seconds until lap times
are reset.
When the "LAP" function is disabled, the current "lap" is not recorded. If the LAP function is enabled and
vehicle is suddenly stopped (Key-Off), function will be automatically disabled (even if timer was active, the
current "lap" will not be recorded). If the time is never "stopped", it will roll over upon reaching 9 minutes,
59 seconds and 99 hundredths; the lap timer starts counting from 0 (zero) and will keep running until the
recording function is disabled. If, on the contrary, the LAP function is enabled and "memory" was not reset,
but recorded laps are less than 30 (example: 18 recorded laps) the Instrument Panel records any left lap
until memory is full (in this case 12 further laps can be recorded). In this function only the lap times being
recorded are displayed; other data are anyway recorded (MAX speed and MAX rpm), which can be later
displayed in the "LAP DATA" (recorded LAP displaying) function.
LAP (Lap time) Function Enabling/Disabling
This function allows enabling/disabling LAP (lap time) function

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu , use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "LAP"
Function status is highlighted on the display (green if ON or yellow if OFF); use buttons (1) or (2) to move
the left arrow on the new setting, and press the reset button (4) to confirm.
If "OFF" is saved, LAP function will be disabled. If "ON" is saved, LAP function will be enabled (see "LAP
Recording" paragraph).
Note
When "LAP" function is active, flash button (3) takes on the dual function of high beam "FLASH" and LAP
timer Start / Stop.
Digital rpm indication function
This function allows displaying engine rpm value (RPM) to have a more accurate idle speed adjustment.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "RPM"
function and press the reset button (4) to confirm. The rpm value is displayed in number format with a 50
rpm accuracy.
Handlebar instrument panel back light function - DASHBOARD 2
This function allows setting handlebar instrument panel "back lighting" intensity.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "BACK
LIGHT" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page. Use buttons (1) or (2) to select
"DASHBOARD 2 " function, and press the reset button (4) to confirm it.
Once "DASHBOARD 2" function is accessed, the current setting will be displayed (MAX, MIDDLE or MIN in
green); use buttons (1) or (2) to move the left arrow on the new setting, and press the reset button (4) to
confirm. To quit the setting function, press the reset button (4) with "EXIT" highlighted.
If "MAX" setting is selected, handlebar instrument panel background will be permanently set to max. level
for better visibility - recommended in case of high ambient light.
If "MIDDLE" setting is selected, handlebar instrument panel back light will be permanently set at a level
30% lower than max. setting for dimmed visibility - recommended in case of poor ambient light. If "MIN"
setting is selected, handlebar instrument panel back light will be permanently set at a level 50% lower than
max. setting for dimmed visibility - recommended in case of poor ambient light and/or at night.
Tank instrument panel background function - DASHBOARD 1
This function allows adjusting tank instrument panel background.

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "BACK
LIGHT" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page. Use buttons (1) or (2) to select
"DASHBOARD 1 " function, and press the reset button (4) to confirm it.
Once "DASHBOARD 1" function is accessed, the current setting will be displayed (DAY, NIGHT or AUTO in
green); use buttons (1) or (2) to move the left arrow on the new setting, and press the reset button (4) to
confirm.
"DAY" setting: instrument panel background will permanently become "white" for better visibility - it is
recommended in case of high ambient light.
"NIGHT" setting: instrument panel background will permanently become "black" for dimmed visibility - it is
recommended in case of low ambient light and/or at night.
"AUTO" setting: instrument panel background is automatically adjusted based on ambient light (detected by
a sensor); it will be "black" for a dimmed visibility with low ambient light and "white" for better visibility
with high ambient light.
Note
In case of battery off, when the voltage is restored and upon next Key-On, back lighting will always be set
on "AUTO" mode.
Menu 2 Disabling / Re-enabling function
This function allows disabling "OFF" Menu 2 (B) / re-enabling "ON" Menu 2 (A).
When Menu 2 is disabled, the average consumption (CONS.AVG), the instant consumption (CONS.), the
average speed (SPEED AVG), the trip time (TRIP TIME) and the air temperature (AIR) functions will no
longer be displayed on "main screen".
Meters will nevertheless continue calculating all these functions so that, once Menu 2 is activated again, all
data will be updated and consistent.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "MENU 2"
Function status is highlighted on the display (green if ON or yellow if OFF).
Use buttons (1) or (2) to move left arrow on the new setting, and press the reset button (4) to confirm it.
DEFAULT function (Restoring Ducati default parameters)
This function allows restoring the parameters set by Ducati for each single riding mode.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "RIDING
MODE" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page. Use button (1) or (2) to select the
riding mode for which you want to restore the default parameters, and press button (4) to shift to next
page; now use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "DEFAULT" indication. Now, to restore default parameters,
keep the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds.
It will take 3 seconds to restore parameters, during which "PLEASE WAIT ..." will appear on the display;
once procedure is completed, "DEFAULT OK" will appear to confirm that default parameters have been
restored.
Important
This procedure restores the parameters of all riding modes.
ENGINE (Engine Power Control) setting function
This function allows customising ENGINE power and delivery.

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu , use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "RIDING
MODE" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page.
Select the riding mode you wish to change using button (1) or (2) and press the reset button (4) to shift to
next page; now use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "ENGINE" indication and press the reset button (4)
again to confirm selection.
Once function is accessed, engine setting (ENGINE 162 HIGH, 162 LOW or 100 HP) will be displayed on the
right side inside a rectangle.
Note
In France and Japan versions, display will show settings (ENGINE HIGH, MIDDLE or LOW).
Use buttons (1) or (2) to select one of the three engine settings; once the new setting has been selected,
press the reset button (4) to highlight "MEMORY".
Now store the new setting by keeping the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds with "MEMORY"
highlighted.
If setting has been stored successfully, "MEMORIZED" will appear in green for 2 seconds, and "EXIT" will be
automatically highlighted.
Tips on how to select the intervention level
Warning
The 8 levels of the DTC system your motorcycle is equipped with were calibrated with original equipment
tyres (make, model and size). The use of tyres of different size to the original tyres may alter the operating
characteristics of the system.
Motorcycle original equipment: (front 120/70-17 - rear 240/45-17).
In the case of minor differences, such as for example, tyres of a different make and/or model than the OE
ones, but with the same size (rear = 240/45-17; front = 120/70-17), it may be sufficient to simply select
the suitable level setting from those available in order to restore optimal system operation.
If tyres of a different size class are used or if the tyre dimensions differ significantly from the original tyres,
it may be that the system operation is affected to the point where none of the 8 available level settings will
give satisfactory results. In this case it is advisable to deactivate the traction control system. If level 8 is
selected, the DTC control unit will kick in at the slightest hint that the rear wheel is starting to spin.
Between level 8 and level 1 there are other 6 intermediate levels. DTC intervention decreases regularly from
level 8 to level 1. Levels 1 and 2 were specifically designed for OFF-ROAD use and do not ensure a correct
control of traction loss on asphalt. With levels 3 and 4, DTC control unit allows both rear tyre spinning and
sliding sideways when exiting a turn; we recommend using these levels only on track and to very
experienced riders.
The choice of the correct level depends on 3 main variables:
1 The grip (type of tyre, amount of tyre wear, the road/track surface, weather conditions, etc.);
2 The characteristics of the path/circuit (bends all taken at similar speeds or at very different speeds);
3 The riding style (whether the rider has a "smooth" or a "rough" style).
Level depends on grip conditions:

The choice of level setting depends greatly on the grip conditions of the track/path (see below, tips for use
on the track and on the road).
Level depends on type of track/path:

If the track/path features bends all taken at similar speeds, it will be easier to find a level suitable for all
bends; while a track/path with a hairpin turn to be taken at very low speed compared to the other bends
will require a DTC level setting that is the best compromise for all bends (on hairpin turn, DTC intervention
will always be greater compared to the other bends).
Level depends on riding style:

The DTC will tend to kick in more with a "smooth" riding style, where the motorcycle is leaned over further,
rather than with a "rough" style, where the motorcycle is straightened up as quickly as possible when
exiting a turn.
Tips for use on the track:

We recommend that level 8 is used for a couple of full laps (to allow the tyres to warm up) in order to get
used to the system. Then try levels 7, 6, etc., in succession until you identify the DTC sensitivity level that
suits you best (always try each level for at least two laps to allow the tyres to warm up).
Once you have found a satisfactory setting for all the corners except one or two slow ones, where the
system tends to kick in and control too much, you can try to modify your riding style slightly to a more
"rough" approach to cornering i.e. straighten up more rapidly on exiting the corner, instead of immediately
trying a different level setting.
Tips for use on the road:

Activate the DTC, select level 8 and ride the motorcycle in your usual style; if the level of DTC sensitivity
seems excessive, try levels 7, 6, etc., until you find the one that suits you best.
If changes occur in the grip conditions and/or circuit characteristics and/or your riding style, and the level
setting is no longer suitable, switch to the next level up or down and proceed to determine the best setting
(e.g. if with level 7 the DTC intervention seems excessive, switch to level 6; alternatively, if on level 7 you
cannot perceive any DTC intervention, switch to level 8).
DTC (Ducati Traction Control) setting function
This function allows customising DTC (Ducati Traction Control) intervention level and, if necessary, disabling
it for each single riding mode.
To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu, use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "RIDING
MODE" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page. Use buttons (1) or (2) to select the
riding mode you wish to change and press the reset button (4).
To access next page, select "DTC" using button (1) or (2) and press again the reset button (4) to confirm
selection. Once function is accessed, the currently set DTC level is displayed on the left side inside a
rectangle (ex: DTC 1).
Use buttons (1) or (2) to select the new level (1 to 8) or the OFF indication to disable Traction Control
System; once the new setup is selected, press the reset button (4) to highlight "MEMORY".
Now store the new setting by keeping the reset button (4) pressed for 3 seconds with the "MEMORY"
highlighted. If setting has been stored successfully, "MEMORIZED" will appear in green for 2 seconds, and
"EXIT" will be automatically highlighted. To quit the setting function, press the reset button (4) with "EXIT"
highlighted.
DTC intervention increases from level 1 to level 8. The following table indicates the most suitable level of
DTC intervention for the different riding modes as well as the default settings in the "RIDING MODES" that
can be selected by the rider:

DTC RIDING USE DEFAULT ?
LEVEL MODE

1 Sport Sport style on the road for experienced riders It is the default level for the SPORT
or on the track. RIDING MODE

2 Sport- Road style for experienced riders /
Touring

3 Touring Standard style on the road It is the default level for the TOURING
RIDING MODE

4 Touring 2 Standard style on the road for less /
experienced riders

5 Urban City style It is the default level for the URBAN
RIDING MODE

6 Urban 2 City style for less experienced riders /

7 Wet Style on wet asphalt /

8 Rain Style under rain /
"Riding Mode" customisation
This function allows customising each single riding mode.

To gain access to this function display the "setting" menu , use buttons (1) or (2) to select the "RIDING
MODE" function and press the reset button (4) to shift to next page.
Once function is accessed, the three riding modes are displayed; to customise parameters, use buttons (1)
or (2) to select the riding mode you want to change and press the reset button (4) to confirm.
Customisable parameters are "DTC" (Ducati Traction Control) and "ENGINE".
Any parameter change made is saved and remains in the memory also after a Battery-Off.
To change DTC parameters, refer to "DTC (Ducati Traction Control)" .
To change Engine parameters, refer to "ENGINE (Engine power control)" .
The riding parameters set by Ducati can be restored for each single riding mode through the "DEFAULT"
Function.
To restore the parameters set by Ducati, see "DEFAULT (Restoring Ducati default parameters)" .
Note
If parameters were not changed (customised) or if parameters are restored through the "DEFAULT"
function, once Setting menu is quitted, the "background" indicating riding mode (SPORT, TOURING or
URBAN) of "main" screen will turn blue.
Warning
Changes should only be made to the parameters by people who are experts in motorcycle set-up; if the
parameters are changed accidentally, use the "DEFAULT" function to restore factory settings.
"Setting" menu
This menu allows enabling, disabling and setting some motorcycle functions.
To access the "setting menu", keep button (2) pressed for 3 seconds.
No other function can be displayed when this menu is accessed.
Important
For safety reasons, the setting menu can be accessed only when vehicle speed is below or equal to 20
Km/h; if this menu is accessed and vehicle speed is above 20 Km/h, instrument panel will automatically quit
it and shift back to "main" screen.
Setting menu "items" are the following:
- RIDING MODE
- MENU 2
- BACK LIGHT
- RPM
- PIN CODE
- LAP
- BATTERY
- CLOCK
- SET UNITS
- ABS
- EXIT
To quit the setting menu, highlight "EXIT" with button (1) or button (2) and press the reset button (4).
Instrument panel diagnosis
This function allows detecting any vehicle abnormal behaviour. Instrument panel activates, in real time, any
vehicle abnormal behaviour (ERRORS).
Upon Key-On (once check routine is completed) one or more "ERRORS" are displayed in red (if active,
only). As soon as one "error" is activated, the (red) indication is clearly displayed (A) for 10 seconds, and it
is then minimised (B).
If several errors are present, they are displayed in "rolling" mode every 3 seconds; when one or more
errors are activated, the "Engine/Vehicle Diagnosis - EOBD" warning light comes on as well on handlebar
instrument panel.
Hereinafter is the table of the possible displayed errors.

ERROR MESSAGE ERROR

BBS/DTC Black Box / Traction Control Control Unit

GEAR SENSOR Gear sensor

FUEL SENSOR Fuel level sensor

SPEED SENSOR Speed sensor

UNKNOWN DEVICE Unknown control unit

SIDE STAND Side stand switch error

DEVICE DSB SLAVE Handlebar instrument panel not working

DEVICE DDA DDA error

DEVICE DBS MASTER Tank instrument panel not working

FAN Fan relay

CAN LINE CAN communication line

BATTERY Battery voltage (HIGH or LOW)

DEVICE ABS ABS control unit not working

STOP LIGHT Rear stop light

DEVICE ECU ECU control unit not working

ACCELER POSITION Wrong accelerator position

ETV Faulty motor relay or throttle motor

PRESSURE SENSOR Barometric pressure sensor

ENGINE TEMP. Engine temperature sensor

T-AIR SENSOR Air temperature sensor

FUEL INJECT. Injection Relay

COIL Coil

INJECTOR Injector

PICK UP Timing/rpm sensor

LAMBDA Lambda Sensor

ECU GENERIC ECU error

KEY HF communication problem

HANDS FREE GENERIC Hands Free Control Unit error
Steering unlock error - Steering still locked
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that the Hands Free System could not remove the
steering lock.
Warning
In this case, Ducati recommends switching vehicle off and on again (Key-Off / Key-On), keeping handlebar
fully turned. If warning is still present (and steering does not "unlock"), contact a Ducati Dealer or
Authorised Service Centre.
"High" engine coolant temperature
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that engine coolant temperature is high.
Warning is activated when temperature reaches 121°C (250°F).
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends stopping riding and turning engine immediately off; making sure that fans
are working.
"Low" battery level of Hands Free (HF) key
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that the Hands Free System detects that the
battery allowing active key to communicate with and turn on vehicle is running flat.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends changing battery in the shortest delay.
Hands Free (HF) Key not acknowledged
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that the Hands Free system cannot detect any
active key close to vehicle.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends making sure that the active key is nearby (and that it was not lost) or
that it works properly.
Disabled Traction Control (DTC)
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that DTC (Ducati Traction Control) is disabled.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends paying special attention while riding as vehicle behaves differently from
when the Traction Control is active.
"Low" Battery Level
The activation of this "warning" (amber yellow) indicates that motorcycle battery level is low.
Warning is activated when battery voltage is lower than/equal to 11.0 Volt.
Note
In this case, Ducati recommends charging battery in the shortest delay using the special instrument as
engine could not be started.
Warning (Alarms / Warnings) indication
Instrument panel activates, in real time, some warnings / malfunctions which do not nevertheless affect
motorcycle correct and safe operation.
Upon Key-On (once check routine is completed) one or more "warnings" are displayed, if active. As soon as
one "warning" is activated, the (yellow amber) indication is clearly displayed (A) for 10 seconds, and it is
then minimised (B).
If several warnings are present, they are displayed in "rolling" mode every 3 seconds.
Note
When one or more "warnings" are activated, no warning light will come on.
The following "warnings" could be displayed:
- "Low" battery level (LOW BATTERY);

- "Disabled" Traction Control (DTC OFF);
- Hands Free (HF) Key "not acknowledged";
- "Low" battery level of Hands Free (HF) key;
- "High" Engine coolant temperature (HIGH TEMP);
- Steering unlock error;
- Steering still locked (Unlock error).
- Steering unlock error;
- Steering still locked (Unlock error).
Distance reached for SERVICE
When the distance threshold requiring a service is reached, upon every Key-On system displays the
indication relating to the service required (OIL SERVICE "A" and "B" or DESMO SERVICE "C" and "D").
The (red) indication is enabled upon each Key-On for 10 seconds in the "large" size (A) and (C), and then
continues being displayed in the small size (B) and (D) until "reset".
After reset, system will display the next service indication and the residual distance (as described in
previous paragraph).
Distance left before next SERVICE
After having reset the "first" OIL SERVICE indication (1000 km), upon each Key-On, system will display the
indication relating to the next service (OIL SERVICE "A" and "B" or DESMO SERVICE "C" and "D") and the
distance left.
The (A) and (C) (green) indication is enabled upon each Key-On for 2 seconds; while when 1000 km are
left before threshold is reached, (B) and (D) (amber yellow) indication is enabled upon each Key-On for 5
seconds.
First indication - OIL SERVICE 1000 Km
The first indication is enabled when the odometer counter reaches the first 1000 km (600 miles).
The (red) indication is enabled upon each Key-On for 10 seconds in the "large" size (A), and then continues
being displayed in the small size (B) until "reset".
Service indication
This function indicates that vehicle is about to reach or has reached a mileage requiring the motorcycle to
be taken to a Ducati Authorised Service Centre for preventive general maintenance or for Oil change.
Scheduled maintenance chart

Message Km Miles Count Down - 1000 Count Down -1000 Oil Desmo Oil
covered covered Desmo Service Service Service Service

1 1000 621 *

2 11000 6835 *

12000 7456 *

3 23000 14291 *

24000 14912 *

4 35000 21748 *

36000 22369 *

5 47000 29204 *

48000 29826 *

6 59000 36661 *

60000 37282 *

7 71000 44117 *

72000 44739 *

8 83000 51574 *

84000 52195 *

9 95000 59030 *

96000 59651 *
"Riding Mode" function (riding mode change)
This function allows changing vehicle riding mode.

A different traction control (DTC - Ducati Traction Control) intervention level and a different engine power
delivery (Engine) are associated to each riding mode.
To change motorcycle riding mode, simply press reset button (4) once and the "RIDING MODE" menu will
be displayed.
Press the same reset button (4) several times to select the desired riding mode. To confirm the selected
riding mode, keep the same button pressed for 3 seconds.
If throttle twistgrip is closed (vehicle stopped) the riding mode is immediately changed; while if throttle
twistgrip is open (vehicle moving) the "CLOSE THROTTLE TO ACTIVATE" message will be displayed, asking
you to close the throttle. This message stays on for 5 seconds, during which you will have to close the
throttle to enable the new riding mode.
Once the 5 seconds have elapsed, if throttle twistgrip is not closed, the procedure will be aborted (riding
mode will not be changed).
If the "RIDING MODE" menu is enabled and the reset button (4) is not pressed for 10 consecutive seconds,
instrument panel will automatically quit the page, and no change will be made.
Warning
Ducati recommends changing the Riding mode when the motorcycle is stopped. If the riding mode is
changed while riding, be very careful (it is recommended to change the Riding mode at a low speed).
"FUEL LEVEL" indication
Suitable icons inform the rider of the quantity of fuel in the tank.
This indication is only present if MENU 2 is active. With MENU 2 active, if a level sensor error is triggered,
no matter the fuel level output or calculated, as well as in case of CAN no frame or BUS-Off, the display will
still show the level icon in the fixed status "off" (and sensor error warning will be displayed as well).

Icon background Level Fuel quantity- EU Fuel quantity- US
colour version version

Green Level 5 ≥ 13.6 L ≥ 12.5 L

Green Level 4 ≥ 10.1 L ≥ 9.4 L



Yellow Level 1 (reserve) ≥ 1.1 L ≥ 1.1 L

Yellow / White "Refuelling necessary" Night mode < 1.1 L < 1.1 L
(blink)

Yellow / Black "Refuelling necessary" Day mode < 1.1 L < 1.1 L
(blink)

Black Fuel level sensor error – Day mode

White Fuel level sensor error – Night
mode
"SIDE STAND" indication
This indication warns the rider that the side stand is open.
If side stand Sensor error is present on the CAN line, the display shows a stand down/open warning "SIDE
STAND", turns on the EOBD light and displays the corresponding error "Side stand sensor".
If instrument panel does not receive side stand status (no frame), the indication will flash to indicate an
undefined status.
Enabled / disabled "LAP" function indication
This function indicates if the "LAP" (Lap time) function is enabled.

When "LAP" is off, function is disabled.
"LAP" Function can be enabled through the "LAP" Function of the Setting menu.
"Set riding mode" indication
This function indicates the "Riding mode" set on vehicle.

THREE different "Riding modes" are available: SPORT, TOURING and URBAN.
Each riding mode can be changed through the "RIDING MODE" function.
The "background" indicating the riding mode (SPORT, TOURING or URBAN) (A) is blue if the parameters
connected to the currently-set riding mode are the default ones (set by Ducati) or yellow if one or more
parameters have been changed (customised) through the Setting menu, using "RIDING MODE" function.
Engaged gear indicator
This function allows displaying gears (A).

Instrument panel receives the information and indicates the engaged gear or "N" for neutral.
Attention
In case of gear sensor "error", a dash "-" (not flashing) will be displayed.
"AIR" - Air temperature indicator
This function allows displaying ambient temperature.

Displaying range: -39 °C ÷ +124 °C.
In case of sensor FAULT (-40°C, +125°C or disconnected) a string of steady dashes "- - -" will be displayed
and the "Engine/Vehicle Diagnosis - EOBD" light will come on.
Note
When the motorcycle is stopped, the engine heat could influence the displayed temperature.
When temperature reading drops until reaching 4°C (39°F), the ice warning will be enabled.
This indication will be disabled as soon as temperature rises up to 6°C (43°F).
Warning
This warning does not eliminate the possibility of icy road areas even with temperatures above 4°C (39°F);
when ambient temperature is "low", ride responsibly, especially on road areas not exposed to sunlight
and/or on bridges.
TRIP TIME - Trip time indicator;
This function indicates vehicle trip time. The calculation considers the time since Trip 1 was last reset. When
Trip 1 is reset, this value is reset as well.
The calculation active phase occurs when the engine is running even if the motorcycle is stopped (the time
is automatically stopped when the motorcycle is not moving and the engine is OFF and restarts when the
counting active phase starts again).
When the reading exceeds 511:00 (511 hours and 00 minutes), the meter is reset and automatically starts
counting from 0 again.
Note
If you change the unit of measurement for an item connected to "speed" (and distance) or "consumption"
using the "SET UNITS" function of the Setting menu, the trip time value will be automatically reset.
SPEED AVG - Average Speed indicator
This function indicates vehicle average speed. The calculation considers the distance and time since Trip 1
was last reset. When Trip 1 is reset, the value is reset and the first value available is displayed 10 seconds
after the reset. During the first 10 seconds, when the value is not yet available, the display will show a
string of dashes "- -.-".
The active calculation phase occurs when the engine is running even if the motorcycle is stopped (moments
when the motorcycle is not moving and the engine is OFF are not considered). The calculated value is then
displayed increased by 5% to be aligned with vehicle speed indication.
Note
It is possible to change the units of measurement of "speed" (and "distance" travelled) from Km/h (and
Km) to mph (and miles) through the Setting menu, using the "SET UNITS" Function.
"CONS." - Instant fuel consumption indicator
This function indicates vehicle instant fuel consumption.

The calculation is made considering the quantity of fuel used and the distance travelled during the last
second. Value is indicated in "L / 100" (litres / 100 Km).
The active calculation phase only occurs when the engine is running and the motorcycle is moving
(moments when the motorcycle is not moving when speed is equal to 0 and/or when the engine is OFF are
not considered).
When the calculation is not made, a string of dashes is displayed "- -.-".
Note
It is possible to change the units of measurement for "Consumption" (both average and instantaneous
together) from L/100 to km/L through the Setting menu, using the "SET UNITS" function.
"CONS AVG" - Average consumption indicator
This function indicates vehicle average fuel consumption.

The calculation is made considering the quantity of fuel used and the distance travelled since Trip 1 was last
reset.
When Trip 1 is reset, the value is reset and the first value available is displayed 10 seconds after the reset.
During the first 10 seconds, when the value is not yet available, the display will show a string of dashes "- -
-". Value is indicated in "L / 100" (litres / 100 km); it is possible to change the unit of measurement for
"Consumption" (both average and instant together) from L/ 100 to Km/L through the Setting MENU, using
the "SET UNITS" function.
The active calculation phase occurs when the engine is running and the motorcycle is stopped (moments
when the motorcycle is not moving and the engine is OFF are not considered).
Note
It is possible to change the units of measurement for "Consumption" (both average and instantaneous
together) from L/100 to km/L through the Setting menu, using the "SET UNITS" function.
"TRIP FUEL" indicator of distance travelled with the motorcycle in reserve
This function allows displaying the indication of the distance travelled (Km or miles according to the specific
application) with the motorcycle in reserve.
When the low fuel light turns on, the display automatically shows the "TRIP FUEL" function, regardless of
the currently displayed function.
Trip fuel reading remains stored even after Key-Off until the motorcycle is refuelled.
Count is interrupted automatically as soon as fuel is topped up to above minimum level.
When the reading exceeds 9999.9, the meter is reset and automatically starts counting from 0 again.
"RANGE" indicator - Estimate of the distance that can be run
This function estimates the distance that can be run depending on the quantity of fuel measured by the
probe in the tank and on the average consumption measured in the last period.
This indication can be a value between 0 km and 340 km (approximate value) for the EU versions, or
between 0 km and 320 km (approximate value) for the US versions.
"Trip 2" partial distance travelled indicator
This function allows displaying the indication of the partial distance travelled (Km or miles according to the
specific application). When this function is accessed and button (1) is kept pressed for 3 seconds, trip meter
will be reset. When the reading exceeds 9999.9, distance travelled is reset and the meter automatically
starts again.
Note
Whenever the system unit of measurement is changed from the "SET UNITS" function of the Setting menu
or in case of power off (Battery Off), the distance travelled is reset and the meter starts counting from zero
again (considering the new set units of measurement).
"Trip 1" partial distance travelled indicator
This function allows displaying the indication of the partial distance travelled (Km or miles according to the
specific application).
When this function is accessed and button (1) is kept pressed for 3 seconds, trip meter will be reset.
When the reading exceeds 9999.9, distance travelled is reset and the meter automatically starts again.
Note
When this reading is reset, also "Average Consumption", "Average Speed" and "Trip Time" functions are
reset.
Note
Whenever the system unit of measurement is changed from the "SET UNITS" function of the Setting menu
or in case of power off (Battery Off), the distance travelled is reset and the meter starts counting from zero
again (considering the new set units of measurement).
"Odometer" total distance travelled indicator
This function allows displaying the indication of the total distance travelled (Km or miles according to the
specific application).
Upon Key-On, system will automatically access this function.
The value is saved permanently and cannot be reset.
If the value exceeds 199999 km (or 199999 miles) "199999" will be displayed permanently.
The reading is not lost in case of a power OFF (Battery OFF).
TFT - Parameter setting/displaying
Attention
Operate on instrument panel only when the motorcycle is stopped. Do not operate on instrument panel
while you are riding the motorcycle under no circumstances.
Once check routine is over, instrument panel will always display the Odometer (TOT) on the left-hand side
and the Average Consumption on the right-hand side as "main" indication (unless Menu 2 has been
disabled).
"Main" displaying includes the following information:

- Set Riding Mode;
- Gear indication (GEAR);
- Menu 1 : Odometer (TOT);
- Menu 2 : Average Fuel Consumption (CONS. AVG).
By pressing button (1) it is possible to toggle to the following functions of menu 1:

- TRIP1: Trip meter 1;
- TRIP2: Trip meter 2;
- RANGE - Indication of estimated distance that can be run.
By pressing button (2) it is possible to toggle to the following functions of menu 2:

- CONS. - Instant fuel consumption;
- SPEED AVG - Average speed;
- TRIP TIME - Trip time;
- AIR - Air temperature.
Menu 2 displaying can be disabled through the "MENU 2" Function of the Setting menu.
Instrument panel on tank
Instrument panel on tank consists of a colour TFT display housed inside tank fairing and displays trip
information (set riding mode, odometer, fuel consumption, average speed, etc.) as well as the "setting"
menus to be used to enable and adjust the different functions.
1) Menu 1 (TOT, TRIP1, TRIP2, RANGE).

2) Menu 2 (CONS.AVG., CONS., SPEED AVG, TRIP TIME and AIR) if active.
3) Gear / Neutral indication
4) Icon indicating fuel level.
5) Engine setting indication for the currently set riding mode.
6) Currently set Riding Mode.
7) DTC (Traction Control) level indication for the currently set riding mode.
8) Icon referring to the function indicated under Menu 2.
9) Side stand open indication.
Function buttons
1) CONTROL BUTTON
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "up".
2) CONTROL BUTTON
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position "down".
3) HIGH-BEAM FLASH BUTTON
The high-beam flash button may also be used for LAP functions.
DISABLE (RESET) BUTTON
The turn indicators disable button may also be used for the RESET/CONFIRM function of the instrument
panel and for enabling the "Riding Mode".
Engine coolant temperature
This function describes the operation of engine coolant indicator.

Temperature unit of measurement can be selected (°C or °F). Value is indicated as follows:
• if value ranges between -39°C and +39°C (-38°F and +102°F) "LO" will be displayed steady on
instrument panel;
• if value ranges between +40°C and +120°C (+104°F and +248°F) value will be displayed steady on
instrument panel;
• if value is equal to or higher than +121°C (+250°F) "HI" will be displayed flashing on instrument panel.
Note
If the sensor is in fault, the three flashing dashes ("- - -") will be displayed and, at the same time, the
"Engine/Vehicle Diagnosis - EOBD" light will come on.
Clock
This function allows displaying time indication.

Time is always displayed according to the following sequence:
- AM 0:00 to 11:59;
- PM 12:00 to 11:59.
In case of battery off (Batt-OFF), when the voltage is restored and upon next Key-On, clock will be reset
and will automatically start counting from "0:00".
Engine rpm indicator (RPM)
This function allows displaying engine rpm.

Instrument panel receives rpm value and displays it.
Value is progressively displayed from left to right identifying rpm value.
Vehicle speed indicator
This function is used to display vehicle speed (Km/h or mph, depending on the selected unit of
measurement).
The instrument panel receives information about the actual motorcycle speed (calculated in km/h) and
displays the value increased by 5%.
The max. displayed speed is 299 km/h (186 mph).
When speed exceeds 299 km/h (186 mph) a string of dashes "- - -" (not flashing) will be displayed.
Note
If instrument panel does not receive any data, a string of dashes "- - -" (not flashing) will be displayed.
LCD - Main functions
1) SPEEDOMETER.
It indicates riding speed
2) REV COUNTER.
It indicates engine rpm value
3) CLOCK.
4) WATER TEMPERATURE INDICATOR.
It indicates engine coolant temperature
Important
Do not ride the motorcycle if temperature reaches the max. value as engine could suffer severe damage.
Display background colour (Self-Adjustment)
Instrument panel automatically adjusts background colour based on ambient light

When sensor detects a "low ambient light" (night) it shifts to black background mode; while when a
"significant" ambient light (day) is detected, it shifts to white background mode.
This function can nevertheless be customised through the "setting" menu using the "Tank instrument panel
background adjustment function - DASHBOARD 1", by permanently setting one of the two modes - NIGHT or DAY
- (or going back to the AUTO mode).
Instrument panel (Dashboard)
Instrument panel on handlebar
The instrument panel on handlebar consists of a LCD display (1) where main indications are shown (speed,
engine rpm, engine coolant temperature and clock).
1) LCD display.
2) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN).
Comes on when in neutral position.
3) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE).
Comes on when high beams are on.
4) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED).
Comes on when engine oil pressure is too low. It must turn on at "Key-On", but must turn OFF a few
seconds after the engine has started. It may shortly come on when the engine is hot, however, it should go
out as the engine revs up.
Important
If the ENGINE OIL light stays ON, stop the engine or it may suffer severe damage.
5) FUEL WARNING LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

Comes on when fuel is low and there are about 4 litres of fuel left in the tank.
6) TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS (GREEN).
The light of the turn indicator in operation illuminates and flashes.
7) "ENGINE/VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS - EOBD" LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
It turns on in the case of "engine" and/or "vehicle" errors and in some cases will lock the engine.
8) "OVER REV" LIMITER / "DTC" TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT (RED).

Over rev light

No rev limitation Off

1st threshold - no. RPM before the limiter threshold (*) On - STEADY

Limiter (Overrev) kicks in (*) On - Flashing
(*) each calibration of the engine control unit, depending on model, may have a different setting for the
thresholds before the rev limiter kicks in and the rev limiter threshold.

DTC intervention light

No intervention Off

Spark advance cut On - STEADY

Injection cut On - STEADY
Note
Should both lights for Over rev Function activation and DTC intervention come on, instrument panel will
give priority to Over rev Function.
10) ABS LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).

Engine OFF / speed below 5 Km/h

Light OFF Light flashing Light steady on

- ABS disabled with the menu function ABS enabled, but not functioning yet
(**)

Engine on / speed below 5 Km/h


- ABS disabled with the menu function ABS enabled, but not functioning yet

Engine on / speed above 5 km/h


ABS enabled and ABS disabled with the menu function ABS disabled and not functioning due to a
functioning problem
(**) the ABS can be considered as really disabled only when light continues flashing even after engine
starting.
Passive key
Introduction
The passive key is used when the active one does not operate properly or is not present.
The passive key works by means of a transponder and, therefore, it must be physically placed on the
antenna in order to operate properly. The mechanical part of the key is used to open the seat lock or the
tank plug.
Wiring diagram
The part does not have any wiring diagram
Error codes
“Key diagnosis” error: “Wrong Key”. The key has been detected but it is not associated to the Hands free
system. The fault is visible only through the DDS, after the instrument panel has been turned on using the
PIN code.
- Make sure that the key is correct.

- Reprogram the key.
- If the previous tests do not point out any faults, replace the Hands free system.
“Key diagnosis” error: “Encryption error”. The secret code inside the key is not recognised by the Hands
free system. The fault is visible only through the DDS, after the instrument panel has been turned on using
the PIN code.

- Check that the key is in good condition (not damaged or worn).
- Check that the antenna operates correctly.
- If the previous tests do not point out any faults, contact Ducati.
Electric features and part inspection
The part does not feature any special electric features or available tests to carry out.
Part failure
If a failure occurs, try to program the key again.
Part replacement methods
The part does not need to be replaced.

Active key
Introduction
The active key (1) communicates with the Hands free system by means of radio waves.
It must be in a range of 1.5 meters from the antenna (located in the glove compartment, under the seat) or
it will not be detected by the system.
If the key battery is flat or its transmitter circuit is faulty, the active key can operate also by means of a
transponder (exactly as the passive key).
In this operating mode, the key must be physically placed on the antenna in order to operate correctly.
By pressing button (A) of the active key (1) the metal part is fully open (2), position (B).
By keeping button (A) pressed, it is possible to move the metal part (2) to the intermediate position (C).
Once this position is obtained, release the button to lock. This position makes it easier to open the tank
plug. Push the metal part in to take it back inside the grip.
Wiring diagram
The part does not have any wiring diagram
Error codes
“Key diagnosis” error: “Wrong Key”. The key has been detected but it is not associated to the Hands free
system. The fault is visible only through the DDS, after the instrument panel has been turned on using the
PIN code.

- If the previous tests do not point out any faults, replace the Hands free system.
“Key diagnosis” error: “Encryption error”. The secret code inside the key is not recognised by the Hands
free system. The fault is visible only through the DDS, after the instrument panel has been turned on using
the PIN code.

- Check that the key is in good condition (not damaged or worn).
- Check that the key battery is fully charged.
- Check that the antenna operates correctly.
- Try to use the active key in transponder mode. In order to reach the antenna, remove the seat
("Removing the seat").
- If the previous tests do not point out any faults, contact Ducati.
Electric features and part inspection
The active key uses one 3V lithium-ion battery. The model of the battery installed is “CR 2032". Only use
batteries having the same coding and electric features.
Part failure
If the battery is flat, a relevant message is displayed on the instrument panel. Replace the battery.
If the active key does not operate properly or is not detected, it is possible to use the active key anyway in
transponder mode by placing it on the lower part of the Plexiglas.
Replacing the battery in the active key
Only use 3 Volt CR 2032 lithium ion batteries.

Note
The keys do not need to be reprogrammed after replacing the battery.
Remove the mechanical part of the active key.

Use a large sized coin to pry open the shells of the plastic grip (2 € coin) as shown in the figure.
Important
Insert the coil only in the indicated point. Do not other use other objects inserted in points that are different
than what is shown, as it could damage the integrated circuit and/or the protective gasket.
Once the plastic shells have been separated, remove the printed circuit board (1), prying it up gently with a
small flat screwdriver, as shown in the figure.
Important
Insert the point of the flat screwdriver just under the printed circuit board, being very careful not to damage
it. Do not apply force on the battery or battery holder.
Remove the battery (2), from the printed circuit board (1), and replace it with a new one.
Pay attention to polarity: the positive pole (+) must face upwards.
Important
Only use the required type of battery.
Reinsert the printed circuit board (1) from the side with the battery (2), into the plastic shell.
Apply slight pressure on the antenna (3) of the printed circuit board until you hear a click.
Align the two shells of the grip and press on the area indicated by the arrows to reclose them. Make sure
that you hear a “click” upon closing and that the key is well closed.
How to reset the Pin Code
The Pin Code may be reset, restoring it to its default factory settings, using the DDS diagnosis instrument.
The procedure can be completed with the suitable Reset function of the Pin Code. Once the Pin Code has
been reset, it is necessary to enter a new one. As a matter of fact, if the Pin Code has not been entered, it
will not possible to start the motorcycle without the active/passive keys.
Starting procedure with passive key and/or active key with low battery
If the motorcycle must be started using the passive key, or in case the active key battery is low, it is
necessary to position the active/passive key in touch with the antenna.
In order to reach the antenna, remove the seat (Removing the seat).
Keeping the key in such position, it is possible to switch the instrument panel on and start the engine,
following the previously described standard procedure.
When the engine is started, it is possible to move away the key from the described position. When the key
is removed and the motorcycle speed exceeds 5 Km/h, the instrument panel will display a message
indicating that the key is not present. Such a behaviour is perfectly normal.
How to enable the Pin Code
For PIN code enabling refer to the paragraph relevant to instrument panel “Immobilizer override procedure”
How to enable engine starting using the Pin Code
For PIN code enabling/use, refer to the paragraph on instrument panel “Immobilizer override procedure”
Starting procedure using the Pin Code (without key)
If the key is not present, the bike can be started using a special procedure that requires the rider to use
the instrument panel and the switches on the handlebar.
Note
This procedure is available only if the PIN code was previously enabled. For security reasons, the PIN code
is disabled when the bike is brand new from the factory.
To turn on the instrument panels without key and start the bike using the PIN code (which is only possible
if PIN code is enabled), it is necessary to press the ON/OFF button on the Hands free system once.
When the engine is started by means of the PIN code and speed exceeds 5 Km/h, the instrument panel will
display a message indicating that the key is not present. Such a behaviour is perfectly normal.
If the vehicle is turned off (both the engine and instrument panels), it is necessary to enter the PIN code
again to be able to ride again.
Recovery for Hands Free system fault
If the Hands free system is not able to communicate on CAN line with the other control units any more
(with instrument panel and engine on), the following icon will be displayed on the instrument panel on tank:
The picture shows the icon that is displayed on the instrument panel on tank: this warning indicates that
the Hands free system is not connected to CAN line or it is not able to communicate on CAN line
If any fault of the Hands free occurs, the following icon will be displayed on the instrument panel on tank:
The picture shows the icon that is displayed on the instrument panel on tank: this warning indicates that a
fault has occurred in the Hands free system
If the engine was off, maybe after the fault it will not be possible to start the engine any more.
If the engine was on, the Hands free system will not stop it. If the rider stops it, maybe it will not be
possible to restart it.
Recovery for electrical steering lock fault
If any fault occurs during the electrical steering lock engaging - for example, pin gets stuck, or if steering is
moved when the pin is coming out or a pin driver overload occurs - the electrical steering lock is
automatically disabled and the Hands free system displays the relevant warning on the instrument panel.
If any fault occurs during the steering lock disengaging (for example the pin does not disengage) the
following icon is displayed on the instrument panel on tank:
The picture shows the icon that is displayed on the instrument panel on tank: this warning shows that the
steering lock has not been correctly disengaged.
Recovery for flat active key battery
If the battery of the active key is running flat or is flat, the Hands free system displays on the instrument
panel the relevant warning.
The picture shows the icon that is displayed in the circular area of the instrument panel: this warning
indicates that the battery of the active key is flat.
For the active key battery replacement, refer to paragraph "Active key" - "Replacing the battery in the
active key" of this chapter.
The active key works even when its battery is flat. In this condition, it should be used in the same way as
the passive key. Therefore, when turning on the instrument panel, the key must be physically placed on the
antenna. In order to reach the antenna, remove the seat ("Removing the seat").
Note
After replacing the battery of the active key, upon next instrument panel switch-on, the flat battery
indication may still be displayed. This warning will disappear in a few seconds.
Recovery for key not present
When the instrument panel is on and the key has previously been recognised, the Hands free system
checks the key presence every 60 seconds to ensure it is within the range.
If the engine is off and the handlebar ON/OFF switch is set to "RUN OFF", after 10 seconds during which
the key is not detected, the instrument panel will automatically turn off.
If the engine is running, the bike is at a standstill at the beginning (speed equal to 0 km/h) and then it
starts to move off, exceeding the speed of 5 km/h and the key is not detected when this speed is
exceeded, the Hands free system displays on the instrument panel a warning showing that the key is not
present within the range (for example the key has been left on the table of the garage).
With reference to the latter case, the engine will continue to run until rider stops it. Once it is turned off, it
cannot be started without the key (if it has been forgotten somewhere, lost or does not work correctly). In
this case, it is possible to start the engine only by entering the PIN Code (refer to the procedure described
below, under "Starting procedure using the Pin Code (without key)" in this section).
The picture shows the icon that is displayed on the instrument panel on tank: this warning shows that the
key is not present.
If the bike has been started using the passive key or the active key in "transponder" mode (without battery
or with flat battery), the indication of key not present is perfectly normal. Indeed, once the vehicle is
started, the key is removed from the antenna placed in the glove compartment under the seat. The bike will
continue to run until the rider stops it, but the instrument panel will always show the warning to tell the
rider that the key is not present. If the vehicle is turned off (both the engine and instrument panel), it is
necessary to put again the key on the antenna to be able to restart it.
Recovery and emergency procedures
Below are the Hands Free system recovery procedures implemented after malfunction or damage, as well as
the emergency procedures required, for example, when owner loses one of the keys or a key does not
work.
How to turn off the bike
In order to turn off the bike, it is necessary to move the switch from the "RUN ON" position to the "RUN
OFF" position. In this way, the engine is killed. Then, to turn off the instrument panel, it is necessary to
move the ON/OFF switch down. Once it has been released, it will go back to the "RUN OFF" position.
Move the switch down to turn off the engine and set to "RUN OFF" ("RUN OFF" Status)
Move the switch down to turn off the instrument panel. The instrument panel can be turned off only if the
vehicle is stopped (speed equal to 0 km/h).
Move the switch down to turn off the instrument panel. The instrument panel can be turned off only if the
vehicle is stopped (speed equal to 0 km/h).
If the vehicle is still moving, the instrument panel will stay on (for example, if the bike moves downhill with
engine off).
In order to force the instrument panel off, even when the vehicle is not stopped, it is possible to press the
ON/OFF button on the Hands free module once.
After having turned off the instrument panel, the system stays active for 60 seconds waiting for the
steering lock enabling or tank plug opening in case of electrical lock (optional).
Warning reading “Keep pressed to lock”
This indicates that it is necessary to keep the button pressed to engage the steering lock. The indication is
activated if button (8) is pressed for 1 second.
“Steering locked” on indication
This function informs that the steering lock was activated. The steering lock can be turned on during the
first 60 seconds after turning off the vehicle by pressing down the “RUN” button. If the steering lock was
activated correctly, the instrument panel will show the indication on the display for 5 seconds.
Note
The steering lock can only be activated when the steering is in position.
How to start the bike without keys
If it is necessary to start the bike without any (active and/or passive) keys, it is possible to turn the
instrument panel on by pressing the button on the Hands free system (placed under the plastic cover on the
tank front end).
Once the button is pressed, the instrument panel will turn on for 2 minutes and it will be possible to enter
the PIN Code and start the engine.
For further details, refer to "Recovery and emergency procedures - Starting procedure using the Pin Code
(without key)" in this section.
How to start the bike if the active key does not work
If the key is not detected, the instrument panel does not turn on. Make sure that the active key is within
the operating range of 1.5 meters and that its battery is fully charged. If you do not know the battery
charge status, it is possible to use the active or the passive key by placing it against the seat and normally
start the bike while keeping the key in this position.
How to start the engine
With engine and instrument panel on the ON/OFF switch (1) is in "RUN OFF" position
With bike and instrument panel on the ON/OFF switch is in "RUN OFF" position.
To start the engine, just move the ON/OFF switch (1) up in "RUN ON" position and press the black start
button (2).
How to turn on the instrument panel
The instrument panel can be turned on by the ON/OFF switch placed on the handlebar or by the button
placed on the Hands free system, it does not make any difference.
With engine stopped, the ON/OFF switch is in "RUN OFF" position.

With motorcycle and instrument panel off, the ON/OFF switch is in "RUN OFF" position.
In order to turn the instrument panel on, push down the ON/OFF switch (1) on the handlebar.
When released, the switch will automatically go back to the "RUN OFF" position. If the key is detected, the
instrument panel will turn on and the electrical steering lock will be disabled (if it was previously enabled).
Push down the ON/OFF switch on the handlebar. When released, the switch will automatically go back to
the "RUN OFF" position. If the key is detected, the instrument panel will turn on and the steering lock will
be disabled (if it was previously enabled).
The instrument panels can be turned on even using the ON/OFF button (7) on the Hands free system. In
this case, it will be enough to press the button on the tank front side once.
When the instrument panel has been on for 10 seconds, the instrument panel will switch off automatically if
the key is not detected.
How to turn the motorcycle on
In order to turn on the instrument panel and start the engine, the active key must be close to the bike seat
(within 1.5 meters), since the receiving antenna is fitted under the seat.
Operating principle
The Hands free system has two ON/OFF buttons that can be used all the same. For the best convenience,
use the one on the handlebar and not the one under the plastic cover of the Hands free system (at the front
of the tank).
In order to start the engine, the rider can keep the active key in their pockets, but it must be within 1.5
meters from the antenna placed in the glove compartment, under the seat. If active key battery is flat or
the motorcycle is started with the passive key, it is necessary to turn the bike on while rider keeps the key
against the antenna.
If the steering lock had been enabled and the key has been recognised, the steering lock is automatically
disabled when the ON/OFF button is pressed.
When one of the two ON/OFF buttons is pressed, the Hands free system outputs a radio signal to the key,
which "wakes up" its electrical circuitry. This operation mode avoids draining battery charge when the key
is not used, or when it is out of the operating range. In these conditions, its circuitry sets to standby mode.
When the key receives the "wake-up" signal, it enables the circuitry and starts transmitting the enabling
code to the Hands free system, always by means of radio communication. If the enabling code received by
the Hands free system is correct, the engine starting is enabled and the instrument panel turns on.
The procedure to be followed when using the passive key (or the active key used in transponder mode) is
similar to the one of the active key. Although it does not feature any battery to power it and enable signal
output, this power is produced by the Hands free system antenna. This is why it is crucial that the passive
key is perfectly aligned and set close to the antenna in order to be powered and recognised. When the
electrical circuit inside the key is powered by the antenna, it starts transmitting the enabling code to the
Hands free system. If the enabling code is correct, the engine starting is enabled and the instrument panel
turns on.
The motorcycle comes with two keys: an active and a passive one. The first one is equipped with a battery,
it remotely communicates with the Hands free system, while the second one should be used only if the
active key does not work, and must be placed on the antenna (operation with transponder - emergency
starting). The mechanical part of the keys is used to open the seat latch and the tank plug (if not equipped
with electrical lock). Both keys are shown below.
Warning
Never ride with the key (no matter if active or passive) inserted into the tank plug lock or seat lock as the
mechanical part or its internal electrical circuits may get damaged.
Warning
Do not leave the key on the vehicle when washing it as it could get damaged (it is not watertight).
Introduction to the “Hands Free” system
The Hands free system allows the rider to start the motorbike without actually using the ignition key.
The key must simply be within a certain range from the motorbike, for instance in the rider's pocket.
Compared to traditional ignition switches, the Hands free system allows the rider's hands to be free during
normal operations (instrument panel ON/OFF and engine RUN/STOP) and allows enabling/disabling the
steering lock.
The electric steering lock used by the Hands free system locks the handlebar on the right or on the left,
making for a more versatile parking solution.
The Hands free system parts are the following:
- Hands free system with integrated button for instrument panel switch-on/off and electrical steering lock
enabling/disabling (hereinafter "ON/OFF button or switch")
.
- Antenna
- Electrical steering lock (integrated in the Hands free system)
- Active key (with internal battery and transmitter) and passive key (with internal transponder)
- Instrument panel ON/OFF button and electrical steering lock enabling/disabling button on the handlebar
The Hands free system is connected to the other control units on the bike and to the instrument panel via
the CAN line. The system can enable ignition (key present and recognised) or disable it (key not present or
not recognised - immobilizer function) thanks to this line. The instrument panel on tank displays any notice,
such as the warnings concerning low key battery or key not present.
Overhauling the front wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after
cleaning and degreasing the bearings in their seats.
Turn the inner ring.
Check the amount of radial and axial play. Excessive play will cause vibration and make the bike unstable
and these parts will have to be replaced.
To remove the bearings (1) and the sealing rings (2) from the wheel hub follow the instructions below.
Position a drift (A) against the inner ring of the bearing (1).
Tap with a hammer until removing the bearing (1).
Apply the drift at different points to facilitate the removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings and sealing rings must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (B) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (1) to drive the latter fully into its
seat.
Use the same method to install the sealing rings (2).

Ensure that spacer (3) is fitted between the two wheel hub bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Inspecting the wheel shaft

Check the wheel shaft for straightness.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge.
After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Refitting the front wheel
When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Fit spacers (3) and (6) to the sealing rings on the sides of the wheel hub.
The two spacers are not interchangeable.
Fit the complete wheel between the fork legs.

Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel shaft (5).
Take shaft (5) fully home into the wheel hub.
Fit the washer (2) on the end of the wheel shaft.

Grease thread and underhead of the locking nut (1) and then screw it on.
Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 63 Nm ± 5%.
Apply grease to the threads and underhead of the screws (A).
Pre-tighten the two retaining screws (A) of the brake callipers (B) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10%.
Operate the front brake lever two or three times.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the screws (A) to a torque of 45 Nm
± 5%.
Before tightening the screws (4), lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebar to
load the suspension; so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft.
Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Removing the front wheel
Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground.
Remove front brake callipers (B) by loosening the two screws (A) securing the calliper to the fork leg
without disconnecting them from the hoses.
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This can cause the brake pad pistons to
come out.
Loosen and remove nut (1) on wheel shaft left side.

Collect washer (2).
Loosen the wheel shaft screws (4) on the fork legs.
Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (5) out from the opposite side
and remove it.
Remove the wheel and collect spacers (3) and (6).
Working on both sides, remove the sealing ring (7).
Overhauling the rear wheel
Check wheel rim conditions.

As the wheel rim has no bearings, it should be supported using the service pin no. 88713.2951.
Note
The service pin mentioned above allows fitting the wheel on the balancing machine.
Overhauling the wheel rim

Inspect the wheel rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Fit the wheel rim on the service shaft no. 88713.2951 using the original fasteners.
Using a dial gauge, duly supported, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Refitting the rear wheel
Lubricate the wheel shaft threaded end with recommended grease.

Fit wheel on the shaft, matching (A) with shafts (B).
Fit the spacer (3) with the tapered side facing the wheel, and washer (2); apply the recommended grease
to the nut (1) and start nut (1) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 230 Nm ± 5%, checking that the hole on the nut is aligned with one of
those on the wheel shaft.
Fit the clip (6), fitting the end into one of the holes in the shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Removing the rear wheel
Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer).
Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage the 1st gear.
Remove the circlip (6).
Using a suitable socket, loosen the wheel nut (1).

Fully unscrew the nut (1) and then slide out washer (2) and spacer (3).
Remove the rear wheel from the motorcycle.
Overhauling the front brake components
Important
The brake callipers manufacturer advises against servicing the brake callipers due to the safety critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Operations should be limited to replacement of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.
The brake disc must be clean, without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
Warning
For all maintenance operations (wear check and replacement of brake pads and brake fluids, etc.) see
chapter, "Maintenance operations".
Refitting the front brake system
Upon the system refitting, pay attention to the orientation of the hose (6) unions on the master cylinder
and of hoses (8) and (11) on callipers (9) and (13).
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as
When reconnecting the brake line to the calliper or master cylinder, make sure to install the seals (4) on
either side of the hose end union.
After having aimed the hose union (6), tighten screw (3) to the torque of 23 Nm ±10%.
After having aimed the hose unions (8) and (11) on the front brake callipers (13) and (9), tighten special
screws (14) and (15) to the torque of 23 Nm ±10%.
Note
Make sure that internal hose union and the external hose union are installed in the left brake calliper.
Fit the left brake calliper (9) over the disc.
Apply the specified grease to the screws (12).
Start screws (12) to secure the callipers to the fork legs.
Operate the brake lever two or three times to pressurise the circuit so that the brake pads are brought into
contact with the brake disc.
Perform the same operation to fit the right brake calliper (13).
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously tighten the calliper screws (12) to a torque
of 45 Nm ± 5%.
Centre and insert brake rubber block (D) in hose clip (B).
Fold hose clip (B) and block it by starting screw (C).
Insert hose (8) in bracket (10) and tighten screw (7) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
To position the ABS sensor cable (A) ties to front brake hose (11), refer to section "Routing wiring
harnesses/hoses".
Fill the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Refitting the brake discs
Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and apply a medium
strength threadlocker on the threads of retaining screws (16).
Fit the phonic wheel (18) working on the LH side.
Tighten the screws (16) retaining the brake disc (17) to the wheel following this sequence: 1-3-5-2-4.
Refit the wheel on the motorcycle (Refitting the front wheel).

Removing the brake discs
The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both
parts must be replaced together as a pair.
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
Undo the screws (16) securing the brake disc to the wheel, remove disc (17) and collect the phonic wheel
(18) from the LH side.
Removing the front brake system
Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Undo the special screw (3), collecting the sealing washers (4) to release the front brake master cylinder
unit (1) from hose.
Undo the screw (7) and slide out the front brake line (8) from the bracket (10) on the bottom yoke.
Release the front brake hose (11) and ABS sensor cable (A) from hose clip (B) by loosening screw (C).
Warning
Should the hose clip get damaged upon front brake hose removal, replace it.
The hose without clip may touch the tyre while braking and cause accidents.
Loosen the two retaining screws (12) securing the left front brake calliper (9) to the fork leg.
Repeat the operation for the right brake calliper (13).
Undo the special screws (14) and (15) from both callipers and collect the seals (4).
Remove the front brake callipers from hoses (8) and (11).
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Insert the front brake master cylinder unit (1) on the right side of the handlebar so as the clamp internal
edge matches with the mark (A).
Position clamp (2) and start the screws (5).

Tighten clamp (2) retaining screws to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% following the sequence 1-2-1 starting from
the upper screw.
Position the hose and sealing washers (4) on the master cylinder unit (1) and secure with the special screw
(3), without tightening.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
Reassemble the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
Fill the braking system (Changing the brake system fluid).
Removing the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the
safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid
reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Drain the braking system (Changing the brake system fluid).

Remove the rear-view mirrors (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Undo the special screw (3), collecting the sealing washers (4) to release the front brake master cylinder
unit (1) from hose.
Undo the screws securing the clamp (2), and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly (1)
from the handlebar.
Refitting the rear brake calliper
If the brake lines (22) are replaced or if one of the rear brake system components has been removed,
make sure that the hose unions on the master cylinder and the calliper are correctly positioned.
Warning
Remember to fit the copper gaskets (8) to the hose end union when reconnecting the brake line to the
brake calliper (24).
After having aimed the hose union, tighten special screw (33) to the torque of 23 Nm ±10%.
If speed sensor (25) is removed, fit it to the calliper holder bracket (A) with spacer (27) and washer (28)
and tighten screw (26) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Note
The gap between sensor and the brake disc retaining screw must be within 0.6 and 2.2 mm.
If calliper holder plate (A) has been removed, refer to "Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft"
to refit it.
Insert the rear brake calliper (24) on the brake disk, aligning it with the holes of calliper holder plate (A).
Apply grease on screws (23) and tighten them to 25 Nm ± 5%.
For the positioning of hose (22), speed sensor (25) and retaining ties, see "Routing wiring harnesses/hoses".
Removing the rear brake disc
Remove the rear eccentric hub.

Undo and remove the four screws (29) securing the brake disc to the wheel shaft, and remove the rear
brake disc (30).
Loosen the screws (31), and remove the rear phonic wheel (32).
The brake disc must be perfectly clean, with no rust, oil, grease or other dirt and no deep scoring.
To check the wear limit of the brake disc, refer to chapter "Hydraulic brakes".
Position rear brake disc (30) on rear wheel shaft (33), aiming it with chamfered sides (S) facing upwards.
Fasten the disc by starting screws (29) after applying recommended threadlocker.
Note
Pay attention to align screw heads to the corresponding seats on brake disc.
Tighten the screws (29) to a torque of 27 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-3-4 sequence.

Position the phonic wheel (32) on brake disc (30), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fasten phonic wheel (32) starting screws (31) after applying recommended threadlocker. Tighten the
screws (31) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%, in a cross pattern.
Fit the rear eccentric hub as described in "Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft".
Removing the rear brake calliper
Important
The brake calliper manufacturer advises against servicing the brake calliper or master cylinder due to the
Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations:
Undo and remove the special screw (5) securing the hose (22) to the rear brake calliper and the
corresponding seals (8).
Remove the hose (22).
Undo the two fastening screws (23) securing the rear brake calliper (24) to the calliper holder bracket, and
remove the brake calliper (24).
If it is necessary to remove the calliper holder bracket (A), refer to Section "Removing the rear wheel eccentric
hub and the rear wheel shaft".
To replace the brake pads follow instructions in the paragraph "Checking brake pad wear and replacing rear brake
pads".
To remove the speed sensor (25), undo the fastening screw (26) paying attention to the spacer defining the
airgap (27) and washer (28).
Only the following parts should be replaced:
- calliper: pads, fasteners and bleed valve assembly;

- master cylinder: control pedal, bleed valve assembly, reservoir and relevant components.
Refitting the rear brake control
If rod (1), clip (13) and fork (14) unit has been disassembled, refit it by screwing nut (15) on rod (1); then
tighten the rod on fork (31) until reaching the value indicated in the figure.
Block the rod and tighten nut (15) against fork (14) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10%. Fit rod unit (1) on lever (6)
and block it by means of quick-release coupling (13).
Check that the value for the adjusting screw (16) and nut (17) is the indicated one.
Apply specific grease to the unthreaded surface of pin (9).
Install the first O-ring (11) onto pin (9).
Start pin (9) on brake control lever (6), apply specified grease on the seat of the second O-ring (11) of
lever (6), then fit the other O-ring (11) and washer (3).
Position spring (4) on rear brake lever (6) by respecting the indicated orientation.
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the pin thread (9).
Fit brake lever (6) on footpeg holder plate (P) starting shaft (9).
Upon assembly, fit spring end (E) against the relevant rib on plate (P), having care that the other end (F)
remains in its position, as shown.
Fit rear stop sensor cable (18), do it finger tight on bracket (G) and then tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm ±
10%.
If previously removed, fit pump support (19) on plate by starting screws (20).
Note
The first screw to be started is the one near the slotted hole.
Tighten screws (20) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10 %.
Reconnect hose (7), locating seals (8) on both sides of the hose union, and secure it with the special screw
(5).
Tighten special screw (5) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Note
Pay particular attention to the hose routing and hose coupling on the rear brake master cylinder.
Insert the rod (1) inside the master cylinder (2), after applying the recommended grease.
Refit the RH footpeg plate (Refitting the front footpeg plates).
Connect the rear stop switch from the main wiring (Routing of wiring on frame).
Disassembling the rear brake control
The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
To disassemble the master cylinder's outer parts, follow the indications given in the exploded view at the
beginning of this Section. If the bush (10) inside the brake pedal (6) needs to be replaced, grease the
external surface and fit the new bush using a press to insert it. The bush must be placed at 2 mm from the
pedal external face.
To disassemble the various parts of the system, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
After performing an operation on the rear brake control, check the brake pedal position following the
instructions detailed in Section "Adjusting the position of the gear pedal and rear brake pedal".
Removing the rear brake control
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid
reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Drain the rear brake system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Disconnect the rear stop switch from the main wiring (Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the RH footpeg plate (Removing the front footpeg plates).
Release adjuster rod (1) from the rear brake master cylinder (2).
Undo special screw (5) from master cylinder (2) and slide out hose (7), collecting seals (8).
Loosen screws (12) that retain the rear brake master cylinder (2) and remove it from the vehicle.
Undo pin (9) securing the brake lever (6), collecting spring (4).
Slide out the brake lever (6) and collect pin (9), washer (3), bush (10) and O-ring (11).
ABS system deactivation
The ABS system can be disabled / enabled through the "ABS disabling function" on the instrument panel.
Warning
If the vehicle front wheel remains off the ground for a prolonged period while the vehicle is moving, the
speed difference detected between the two wheels causes an ABS fault (warning light activated) and makes
it impossible for the control unit to establish a reference speed.
ABS system operation information
The operation of the system is based on the analysis of the speed signals for front and rear wheels; the
system is automatically deactivated if either of these signals is missing.
Note
In the event of the ABS control unit detecting a fault in the ABS electronic management system, it activates
the specific fault warning indicator on the instrument panel and restores conventional braking functionality
without ABS.
Hydraulic faults in the brake system and faults not directly related to the ABS system (e.g.: worn brake
pads) cannot be detected by the ABS control unit.
Important
The operation of the system is based on the values read for the front and rear wheel speeds; take great
care not to damage the phonic wheels and relative speed sensors when removing the wheels or when
working close to these components; the phonic wheels damage may compromise the operation of the
system and cause dangerous malfunctions.
Warning
In case of errors of the IMU control unit, it is necessary to solve first the speed sensor errors and then
those of the IMU control unit.
ABS diagnosis
The diagnostic function of the ABS ascertains the functionality of the main system components via
hardware/software tests, but cannot modify the operating parameters of the ABS strategy.
From the model menus of the DDS2.0 diagnosis software, select SUPERBIKE family, then model SBK 1199
Superleggera, and then select bike model year and press Global Scan button.
Now connect tester to bike CAN diagnostic socket, to locate connector refer to the video displayed in screen
showing the diagnostic connector position on bike.
Wait for the correct configuration to be loaded and, when requested, switch the vehicle to key-on state.
Tester communicates to the different control units present on bike, ABS control unit included; wait for the
scan to be completed.
Among the displayed information a "dot" icon is shown: based on its colour, it refers to validated errors
inside the different control units.
In particular, if errors are stored, icon will be yellow or if errors are currently present, icon will be red, while
if no errors are present, icon will be green.
To make a deeper analysis of the ABS control unit, select ABS control unit and SELF-DIAGNOSIS or, as an
alternative, make a double selection on the same item with your mouse.
Once in this configuration, a number of parameters and states of the ABS control unit and information
concerning the control unit itself may be selected and displayed.
The INFO menu allows reading the software version loaded on the control unit as well as other information.
Viewable parameters

Front wheel speed The speed value for the front wheel is displayed in Km/h.

Rear wheel speed The speed value for the rear wheel is displayed in Km/h.

System voltage The system voltage value, measured across the terminals of the ABS unit, is displayed
value in Volts
Viewable states

Hydraulic pump Indicates if the electric motor of the hydraulic pump inside the ABS unit is functioning
motor state or not.

Valve relay state Displays the state of the main valve relay inside the ABS unit.

Rear inlet valve Displays the state of the normally open EV1 rear inlet valve (OFF if open, ON if
state closed).

Front inlet valve Displays the state of the normally open EV4 rear inlet valve (OFF if open, ON if closed)
state

Front outlet valve Displays the state of the normally closed AV4 rear outlet valve (OFF if closed, ON if
state open).

Switch status ABS Displays state of the analogue input of the ABS unit for the strategy switch off request
(1 state to Uz, 0 state to GND).
Select the function "View errors"
This tester function provides the user with information concerning the error list in the ABS control unit
memory, indicating if errors are stored or current. The following codes are given after a short description of
the diagnosis type: MEM, indicating that the error has been stored previously by the ABS control unit but
has not been detected in the current test session. ATT, indicating that the error is current and has been
detected during the current test session.
Note
While ATT indicates that the error has been found during the current test session, it does not necessarily
indicate that the error is actually active at the time of indication. For example: disconnecting the front wheel
speed sensor causes the code ATT to be displayed after the error description, but the code continues to be
displayed even once the cause of its activation has been eliminated by reconnecting the sensor, as the ABS
will only check sensor operation again after the next key-off/key-on cycle. As a result, always perform a
key-on/key-off cycle after any work on the ABS system, interrupting and re-establishing communication
between the diagnostic instrument and the ABS control unit before checking the updated ABS error list
again.
The abbreviations for all the errors displayed are given as follows:

Error Errors Description
code

C0031 Front Speed Sensor Error
Front speed sensor signal
Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of
front wheel speed sensor

C0032 Front speed sensor signal - Plausibility Front speed sensor fault - Plausibility

C003D Rear Speed Sensor Error Rear speed sensor signal
Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of
rear wheel speed sensor

C003E Rear speed sensor signal - Plausibility Rear speed sensor fault - Plausibility

C1000 Plausibility of difference between front and Front and rear wheel speed difference (WSS_GENERIC)
rear wheel speeds

C1001 Valve relay fault Valve relay fault (Failsafe relay)

C1002 Front inlet valve fault Front inlet valve (1) fault

C1003 Front outlet valve fault Front outlet valve (2) fault

C1004 Rear inlet valve fault Rear inlet valve (1) fault

C1005 Rear outlet valve fault Rear outlet valve (2) fault

C1006 ABS pressure sensor fault Hardware fault

C1007 ABS pressure sensor fault Offset fault

C1008 ABS pressure sensor fault Power supply fault

C0020 ABS general malfunction ABS pump motor fault

C100A ABS general malfunction ABS unit power circuit fault

C100B ABS general malfunction ABS electronic control unit fault

U0121 ABS control unit communication error No Frame – Frame Counter

U0315 ABS control unit Compatibility Error ABS control unit not compatible
Select the function "ABS system information"
This tester function displays the identification data for the ABS system, such as Software version and
BARCODE
e.g.:
Software Version 6789
Barcode Data: HQOJM98200RA
Operating principle
The Ducati ABS brake system manages the front and rear brake systems separately. The operating
mechanism consists of a pulse generator (phonic wheel), with a ring of slots, fitted onto each wheel. There
are HALL sensors on LH fork leg bottom end and on rear brake calliper holder plate. With vehicle running,
they read the slots on the phonic wheel thereby detecting instant wheel speed. These sensors output data
to ABS ECU, which contains a software with a special control algorithm developed by Ducati. The software
compares the vehicle average speed with the instant wheel speed reading and assesses any slipping
condition. If control values are exceeded when the rider commands a certain pressure on brake calliper, the
control unit shall hydraulically control the braking system, which is nearly locked up. The system can
modulate pressure at the calliper through a set of solenoid valves which first prevent any further increase
of hydraulic pressure (1 valve closing), and then make the pressure decrease (2 valve opening). The 2
valve is opened in a series of pulses (with less than 10 milliseconds between successive pulses), to reduce
pressure in steps. When the wheel begins to turn again in response to the diminished braking force applied
and its rotation speed reaches the reference value, the exhaust valve 2 will be closed. Simultaneously, the
inlet valve 1 is reopened, restoring normal operation of the brake system. The ABS control unit can monitor
and modulate brake force in the three following different conditions: dry road surface (high grip), wet or
slippery road surface (poor grip) and uneven road surface. ABS functionality is disabled at vehicle speeds
lower than 5 km/h.
The hydraulic component of the ABS system consists of a primary circuit (from the cylinder to the control
unit and from the control unit to the calliper) and a secondary circuit (completely within the control unit).
Please find below a chart explaining ABS hydraulic operation.
Key to ABS hydraulic system colours:

Green: oil delivery
Light blue: oil return
Key to ABS hydraulic system

A Rear brake master cylinder

B Front brake master cylinder

1A Rear brake calliper inlet valve

1B Front brake calliper inlet valve

2A Rear brake calliper exhaust valve

2B Front brake calliper exhaust valve

3 Master cylinder

4 Little tanks

5A Rear calliper

5B Left front calliper

6B Right front calliper

7 Pressure transducer
Brake system diagram.

Braking without ABS.
ABS 1 modulation: braking.

ABS 2 modulation: pressure partial reduction on callipers.
ABS 3 modulation: pressure total reduction on callipers.

Table C
Table B
Table A
Routing wiring harnesses/hoses
The routing of the ABS system wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating
failures when riding.

Table Position Description

Table B 2 Front ABS speed sensor

Table C 6 Rear ABS speed sensor

Table A 7 ABS control unit

Table A - Table B 14 Front brake master cylinder to control unit hose

Table A - Table B 13 Control unit to front calliper hose

Table A - Table C 12 Rear brake master cylinder to control unit hose

Table A - Table C 11 Control unit to rear calliper hose

Table B 7 Front brake RH calliper to LH calliper hose
Refitting the ABS control unit
In case of replacement or removal of the brake hoses (14), (13), (12) and (11) on the ABS control unit, it
is necessary to pay special attention to the union position on the control unit.
Warning
Hoses (14), (13), (12) and (11) must be secured in place using new sealing washers (15) on unions.
Check for the presence of vibration damping pads (16) and spacers (17) on the ABS control unit support
bracket (9).
Refit the ABS control unit (7) on support bracket (9) and fix it by tightening screws (8) to 10 Nm ±10%
with pre-applied specified threadlocker.
Connect ABS control unit (7) connector (A).
If previously removed, refit the front rubber element (18) with specified threadlocker on pin (C) and on the
rubber element rear surface. Fit the rubber element by inserting pin (C) in hole (D).
If previously removed, refit the rear rubber element (18) with threadlocker specified on the exhaust valve
motor cover.
Note
The rubber element must be aligned with the suitable reference mark, as shown.
To fill brake system, follow the instructions given for changing the fluid of the front and rear brake system
master cylinder or calliper the hose is connected to.
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already
filled with fluid. Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional
system.

Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Removing the ABS control unit
Remove the seat (Removing the seat)

Remove the air conveyor covers (Removing the air filters)
Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings)
Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank)
Drain the fluid from the front and rear brake system hoses by disconnecting them from the master cylinder
and the calliper.
Disconnect ABS control unit (7) connector (A).
Loosen screws (8) that retain the support of the ABS control unit (9) and remove it from the vehicle.
Loosen the four special screws (10) retaining pipes (11), (12), (13) and (14), on ABS control unit (7), by
removing the seals (15).
Warning
Whenever removed, seals must be replaced by new ones on refitting.
Important
Do not open the ABS control unit: if faulty, replace it.
Should it be necessary to replace one or several hoses, refer to “Routing wiring harnesses / hoses”.
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor
Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).

Disconnect connector (C) of rear ABS sensor (6) from main wiring.
Open all clips retaining rear ABS sensor cable (6): refer to tables under Section "Routing wiring harnesses /
hoses".
Remove the rear ABS sensor (6) from its seat on rear calliper holder plate (E), by loosening retaining screw
(1) and collecting calibrated sealing washer (3).
Before refitting, make sure that contact parts between rear ABS sensor (6) and its seat are free of damage
and perfectly clean.
Fit the new rear ABS sensor (6) on its seat inserting the screw (1).
Check air gap between new rear ABS sensor (6) and rear phonic wheel (D) as explained under Section:
"Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor".
Fasten the sensor to the calliper holder plate by tightening screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% with
specified threadlocker.
Connect the connector (C) to main wiring. Restore all clips retaining rear ABS sensor cable (6): refer to
tables under Section "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".

Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard).
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
Disconnect front ABS sensor (2) connector (A) from main wiring.
Open all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (2): refer to tables in "Routing wiring harnesses/hoses".
Undo the retaining screw (1), and remove front ABS sensor (2) with calibrated gasket (3).
Loosen screws (4), remove guide (5) and slide out the front ABS sensor cable (2).
Before refitting, make sure that contact parts between front ABS sensor (2) and its seat are free of damage
and perfectly clean.
Fit the new front ABS sensor (2) on its seat.
Insert the front ABS sensor cable (2) into guide (5) and fix the latter to the LH fork leg by means of screws
(4).
Tighten screws (4).
Refit the front wheel as indicated in Section "Refitting the front wheel".
Connect the connector (A) to main wiring.
Fasten all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (2): refer to tables under Section "Routing wiring
harnesses/hoses".
Check air gap between front ABS sensor (2) and front phonic wheel (B) as explained under Section
"Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor.".
Tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% with specified threadlocker.
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
If brake controls feel “spongy” due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as
described in "Changing the front brake system fluid" and "Changing the rear brake system fluid".
Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons as indicated in "Changing the fluid in
the front brake system" and "Changing the fluid in the rear brake system" to let any air build-up in the ABS control
unit flow into the master cylinder.
Purge must be carried out by means of the corresponding unions (A) placed on the callipers and the brake
master cylinders.
Important
Do not undo the special screws securing the pipe unions on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control
unit replacement is necessary.
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already
filled with fluid. Control unit must thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional
system.
Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
(For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees:
- replacement or refitting of the wheel

- replacement or refitting of the phonic wheel (1) or (2)
- replacement or refitting of the brake discs
- replacement or refitting of the speed sensor (3) or (4)
- (front) replacement or refitting of the sensor holder bracket
- (rear) replacement or refitting of the calliper holder bracket
it is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor and the phonic wheel, once the
components are refitted: place a suitable number of shims (B) under the ABS sensor to obtain an air-
gap between 1.3 and 1.9 mm between the ABS sensor and the phonic wheel. If the shimming is
correct, between the ABS sensor and the phonic wheel only the feeler gauge of 1.3 mm must pass, the
feeler gauge of 1.9 mm must not pass.
Perform the test in three points of the phonic wheels (1) and (2), at a distance of approximately 120° one
from the other.
Shims (B) are of two types: 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm.
Use them properly to reach the correct shimming.
The test with the 1.3 mm shim (that must pass) and that of 1.9 mm (that does not have to pass) must be
performed with ABS sensors (3) and (4) blocked in their seats and it is therefore necessary to loosen and
screw fully home the screw with the relevant washer securing the sensor, every time you add or remove
shims.
Warning
For the front wheel ABS sensor, the sum of the shims must never exceed 3 mm.
For the rear wheel ABS sensor, the sum of the shims must never exceed 3 mm.
Once shimming is finished, fit washers (7) and (8) and tighten screws (5) and (6) securing sensors (3) or
(4) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, then repeat the test with the 1.3 mm shim (that must pass) and 1.9 mm
shim (that must not pass).
Phonic wheels cleaning
It is important to check that both phonic wheels (9) and (10) are always clean.
Otherwise: gently remove any possible dirt deposits with a cloth or metal brush.
Avoid using solvents, abrasives and aiming air or water jets directly on the phonic wheel (9) or (10).
Refitting the throttle control
Lubricate the ends of throttle cables (C) and the control pulley with specified grease. Closing cable (12) has
a yellow marking on its sheath, whereas opening cable (12) has a white marking.
To refit the throttle control components, follow the removal procedure in the reverse order by positioning
the throttle covers on the handlebar reference hole.
Tighten screws (10) of throttle control to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the throttle control
Slightly slide out rubber cap (A) that protects the throttle cables.
Loosen screws (10) of throttle control (11) and open the latter.
Remove throttle cables (12) by sliding nipples (C) out of their seats.
Remove throttle control (11) from the handlebar.
To replace the throttle cables it is necessary to remove them from the throttle body (Removing the airbox and
throttle body).
The spare throttle cables are provided with adjusters.
Adjusting the throttle cable
The throttle grip in all steering positions must have free play, measured on the periphery of the flange of
the grip, of 1.5÷2.0 mm.
If it is necessary to adjust it, refer to "Adjusting the throttle cable".

Use adjusters (1) and (2) located on the steering tube on the right side of the motorcycle. Adjuster (1)
adjusts the throttle opening control, while adjuster (2) adjusts the throttle closing control.
Note
Refitting the handlebar
Position and orient handlebar by matching the lower outer corner of printings (A) on the handlebar with the
upper inner corner of U-bolts (B), as shown.
Refit the two switches (5) and (9) by tightening screws (4) and (8) to a torque of 1.3 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten screws (10) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10% following a cross pattern.
Refit the front brake master cylinder (Refitting the front hydraulic brake master cylinder).
Refit the clutch master cylinder (Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly).
Working on the left side, refit handgrip (3) and counterweight (1). Tighten the screw (2) to a torque of 10
Nm ± 10%.
Working on handlebar right side refit the throttle control (Refitting the throttle control)
Refit the counterweight (6) by tightening screw (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the handlebar
Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the hydraulic front brake master cylinder).
Remove the clutch master cylinder (Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly).
Remove the counterweight (1) by loosening screw (2) and slide out handgrip (3).
Loosen screws (4) on left-hand switch (5).

Remove counterweight (6) from handlebar right side by loosening screw (7).
Remove the throttle control (Removing the throttle control).
Loosen screws (8) on switch (9).
Loosen the four screws (10) and remove handlebar (11) by sliding out the two switches (5) and (9), but
leaving them connected to main wiring.
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Position hose (15) on clutch slave cylinder (9).

Place two seals (14) and tighten screw (13) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Refit bleeding unit (12) and dust seal (11).
To position the ties that fix hose (15), refer to the table on the following page.
Push the internal piston (A) to force out all the fluid from inside the unit.
Make sure the anti-rotation pin (7) is fitted on the clutch pushrod (6).
Proceed as follows in case the anti-rotation pin (17) has been removed from the clutch pushrod (16).
Turn the clutch pushrod (16) until the axis of the anti-rotation pin (17) positioning hole is horizontal, as
Grease the anti-rotation pin (17) and insert it into the clutch pushrod (16) hole.
Insert the anti-rotation insert (18) fully home into the clutch pushrod (16) by matching the anti-rotation pin
(17) with the slots (B) on the insert (18).
Note
The tab of the insert must be inwards (casing side).
Turn the clutch pushrod (16) counter clockwise until the hole axis of the anti-rotation pin (17) is aligned
with the centreline of the casing cover machined surface (D), as shown in the figure.
Insert the clutch slave cylinder (9) into the pushrod (16) and bring it fully home on the anti-rotation insert
(18).
Note
While inserting the clutch slave cylinder, make sure to match the insert tab with the cylinder unit slot.
Fix the clutch slave cylinder (9) by starting the screws (10).
Note
To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and
tighten the retaining screws alternatively in steps.
Tighten the screws (10) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%, in the sequence 1 - 2 - 3 - 1.

Fill the clutch system (Filling the clutch system circuit).
Clutch system hose positioning.

Removing the clutch slave cylinder
Warning
The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the slave cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component.
Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety.
The replacement operations that can be performed on the slave cylinder regard the bleeding unit, the seal
and the complete piston.
Drain the clutch system (Draining the clutch system circuit).
Undo the screws (10) and slide out the clutch slave cylinder (9).
Remove dust seal (11) and bleeding unit (12) and loosen screw (13), having care not to damage the seals
(14): unit (9) is free from hose (15).
Push the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Now it is possible to slide out clutch pushrod (16).

Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly
Insert clutch master cylinder unit (3) and clamp (6) on the LH handlebar, by positioning them so that the
upper junction surfaces are aligned with printing (8) on the handlebar, as shown.
Couple clamp (6) with the clutch master cylinder control and fix them with screws (V).
Tighten the fastening screws (7) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10% following the sequence 1-2-1
starting from the upper screw.
Position the hose (4) and sealing washers (2) on the master cylinder unit (3) and secure with the special
screw (1), without tightening.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
For the positioning of the clutch hose (4) and retaining clips, see the illustration at the end of this section.
Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the LH rear-view mirror (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).

Fill the clutch system (Filling the clutch system circuit).
Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly
Warning
The clutch master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the
safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Replacement operations shall be limited to the following parts: control lever, reservoir assembly, and
master cylinder fasteners.
Drain the clutch system (Draining the clutch system circuit).

Remove the LH rear-view mirror (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Unscrew the special screw (1) recovering the sealing washers (2), to release the clutch master cylinder unit
(3) from the clutch control pipe (4).
Undo the screws (7) securing the U-bolt (6), and then remove the clutch brake master cylinder assembly
(3) from the handlebar.
Refer to the exploded view below for indications on disassembly and replacement of the master cylinder
components.
Refitting the Hands Free
For reassembling, follow the removal procedure in the reverse order. In particular, apply specified
threadlocker to screws (2) and tighten them to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10%.
If the Hands-free button has been previously removed, upon reassembly engage spring (6) on pin (A) of
button (5). Insert button (5) with spring (5) in the opening of rim (3). Block button (5) by inserting pin (4)
flush with surface (B) of rim (3).
Note
Upon pin insertion, keep the button pressed in the sense indicated by the yellow arrow.
Warning
The pin must be positioned so that its groove is on the opposite side of the one that is tangential to the
button when moving, as shown.
To position the wiring, refer to "Routing of wiring on frame".

Refit all structures that have been previously removed.
Removing Hands Free

Remove the throttle control cable (Removing the throttle control).
Remove the airbox and the throttle body (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Loosen screws (2) and remove the Hands-free system (1) from the frame.
Refitting the gearshift
Check that gearchange rod (8) is fitted with the ball joint with left threading (A) facing lever (5).
Apply specified grease to the unthreaded surface of shaft (2).
Install the first O-ring onto shaft (2).
Start pin (2) in gearchange lever (1). Apply specified grease in the second O-ring seat. Insert the second O-
ring and washer (3).
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the pin thread (2). Fit gearchange lever (1) on the footpeg holder
plate by tightening shaft (2) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10% after applying specified threadlocker.
Fit lever (5) on gear control assembly by starting screw (6).
Fit the gear change unit inserting the lever (5) on the gear control pin, apply threadlocker on the screw (4)
and insert it on the lever (5).
Disassembling the gear change control
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this Section for indications on disassembly and replacement
of the gearbox control assembly.
If the bush (7) inside the pedal (1) needs replacing, grease the external surface and drive the new bush
into place using a press. The bush must be seated 2 mm below the outer face of the pedal.
Warning
After working on the gear change control, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the gear pedal position, follow the instructions in "Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and
rear brake pedal.".
Removing the gearshift
Slide out and remove pin (2) that retains the gearbox pedal (1) and collect washer (3) and O-rings.
Undo and remove the screw (4) securing the gear lever (5) to the gearbox shaft.
Remove the lever (5) complete with the gear control assembly.
Warning
Mark the position of lever with respect to the gear selector shaft.
To remove lever (5) from the gearbox control assembly, loosen screw (6) then slide out lever (5).
Overhauling the front fork
It is recommended to loosen the plug (7) of the fork leg when it is still fitted on the vehicle.
Before unscrewing spring plug (7) loosen spring preload adjuster.

Unscrew plug (7) with rebound hydraulic adjuster.
Disassembling the front fork

Tighten lock nut (8) with a hexagon wrench.
Using another hexagon wrench, unscrew plug (7), with relevant gasket, from cartridge (8).
Loosen lock nut (8) up to the end of the cartridge threading (9).
Keeping spring (10) locked in place with your fingers, laterally slide the bush (11) and slowly release spring
(10).
Slide off spring (10).

Remove the preload tube (12) with washer (13).
Drain the fluid from the fork leg by pumping with the outer sleeve (14) and damper cartridge (9).
Warning
With this movement, the fluid is pressurised and drained out of the fork leg.
Aim the fluid inside a vessel and avoid contact.
Vice the slider (15) using protection jaws.

Loosen compression adjuster (16).
Remove the adjuster (16) and collect gasket (17).
Remove the complete damper cartridge (9).

Remove dust seal (23) from outer sleeve (18), by prising it out with a screwdriver.
Remove the snap ring (19).

Make sure not to damage the slider (15) and the snap ring seat (19) in the outer sleeve (18).
Slide out outer sleeve (18) from slider (15) by quickly hitting several times to overcome the guide bush
(20) resistance.
Insert the tip of a screwdriver into the opening of the bush (21) to remove it from the slider.
Remove from slider:
- guide bush (20);

- washer (22);
- sealing ring (24);
- snap ring (19);
- dust seal (23).
Front fork inspection

Place the spring on a flat surface and measure its free length (L).
Service limit: 270 mm.
If the length measured is not within the tolerance limits, replace the spring.
Inspect the outer surface of the two sliders and the internal one of the two sleeves. They must be smooth
without signs of scoring, steps or forcing.
Check the straightness of the stanchions: maximum error admitted, 0.10 mm.
Every time the slider is removed from the sleeve, replace the guide bushes (21) and (20).
Check the washer (22) distortion in the shown area. If it is distorted, replace it.
Reassembling the front fork
Vice the slider.
Protect slider end with some adhesive tape.
Before fitting the sealing ring (24), lubricate the sliding edges with fork fluid or seal grease.
Install the sealing ring (24) with the marking side facing the dust seal (23).
Install the following parts into the slider (15):
- dust seal (23);

- snap ring (19);
- sealing ring (24);
- washer (22);
- guide bush (20);
- bushing (21).
Note
Smear the bushing sliding surfaces with some fork fluid before assembling the slider to the outer sleeve.
Push the guide bush (20) and washer (22) into the outer sleeve (18), using tool (A) part no. 88713.3204
to drive the sealing ring.
Push sealing ring (24) into the sleeve by using the same tools.
Fit snap ring (19) and dust seal (23).
Important
The outer sleeve must slide freely on the slider. Support the sliders and outer sleeves only with your fingers
in order not to damage the sealing rings and guide bushes.
Fit the complete damper cartridge (9) into the slider (15), and tighten tool part no. 88713.3203 on the
cartridge.
Fit the gasket (17) and the compression adjuster (16), and tighten it fully home.
Pour half of the specified fluid amount into each fork leg "Fuel, lubricants and other fluids".
Using tool 88713.3203, pump in order to allow the fluid to fill the inner volume.
Take damper cartridge and outer sleeve fully home.
Pour the remaining amount of fluid into the leg and measure its level.
Important
When you measure the level, position the leg vertically. Check that the level is the same in both legs.
Recommended fluid:
SHELL ADVANCE FORK 7.5 or DONAX TA.
Standard capacity:
720 cc per leg.
The amount of fluid affects the behaviour of the fork at the end of its compression travel.
A high fluid level increases the compression load, a low level decreases it.
Before fitting the previously removed components, remove the fluid on spring (10) and lock nut (8).
Fit the following parts: washer (13) and preload tube (12).
Fit spring (10), bush (11) and lock nut (8): fit bush (11) with the tapered surface facing the lock nut (8).
Tighten lock nut (8) on cartridge (9) with a hexagon wrench.
With the same wrench, hold the lock nut and tighten the top plug (7) with O-ring on cartridge (9).
Tighten the top plug fully home (7).
Refitting the front fork
Refit the fork legs setting them at the height from the bottom yoke indicated in figure X = 259.5 ± 0.5 mm.
Warning
The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm.
Position fork legs (5) and (6) on bottom yoke (4) and steering head (3).
Fasten fork legs by tightening screws (1), (2) and screws (26) retaining bottom yoke (4) and steering head
(3) to a torque of 22 Nm ±5%: tighten screws (2) in a 1-2-1 sequence.
Tighten one leg at a time.
Important
If the screws were removed upon disassembly, smear their threads with the specified grease before
tightening.
Refit any parts removed from the frame:

Refit the front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard).
Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the front brake callipers (Refitting the front brake system).
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle when front mudguard is not in place since this part supports the brake lines and
avoids that they interfere with the wheel under braking.
Removing the front fork
Before removing this part, it is first necessary to remove the following parts:
Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system).
Remove the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard).
Loosen the screws (1) securing the fork legs to the steering head (3).
Loosen screws (2) and (26) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Withdraw the fork legs (5) and (6) downwards in order to carry out all the necessary overhaul operations.
Steering angle adjustment
Loosen adjusting nuts (2) and dowels (3) on both sides of the bottom yoke.
Use a calibrated shim (A) and insert it on the fork sleeve by 6÷6.5 mm, otherwise use a gauge.
Rotate the fork assembly to the right until shim (A) touches the frame upper tube.
Tighten adjusting dowel (3) fully home on the steering tube retainer.
Apply threadlocker on the nut thread (2).
Hold dowel (3) and block nut (2).
Rotate the fork assembly to the opposite side: perform the same procedure to adjust the other dowel and
block the relevant nut.
After the adjustment and with steering wheel completely to the right, check that there is 1 mm between
the front brake hose and the lower trellis frame.
If this is not the case, reduce the steering angle by working on the RH adjuster.
Refitting the steering tube components
Important
The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting.
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer rings (C) of bearings to the steering tube, use tool (B) no. 88713.1062. Proceed as
follows:
- heat the steering tube to 150 °C;

- fit the outer rings (C) in their seats on the steering tube;
- fit the fixed bush (G, with threaded hole) of the tool into the lower ring;
- fit the other movable bush (H) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper
bearing race;
- tighten the nut (L), and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (C) fully in the steering tube;
- leave the tool fitted until the steering tube has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly
seated.
Insert washer (19), sealing ring (20) (with the rim facing upwards) and inner ring (L) of the lower bearing
onto the steering shaft after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Insert drift no. 88713.1072. Push the inner ring (L) on the sealing ring (20), manually pushing for at least
10-15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner ring (L) with the recommended grease. Fit the ball race (M) on the steering shaft with
the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards, and grease the ball race.
Insert the steering shaft into the steering tube, and push it in until it is axially seated.
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.
Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to the upper outer ring (C) of the frame.
Fit the inner ring (A) of the upper bearing to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race
facing upwards.
Install the sealing ring (13) with the flat side facing upwards.
Apply grease to the ring nut (12).
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (12) by hand until it seats against the sealing ring (20).
Fit on ring nut (12) the special bush (D) no. 88713.1058 and fit the torque wrench on it.
Tighten ring nut (12) to a torque of 30 Nm ± 5%.
Fit the steering head (2) on the ring nut (12), aligning the fork leg seats with the corresponding seats on
the bottom yoke. Reposition the fork legs as indicated under paragraph "Refitting the front fork".
Grease screw (3).
Tighten screw (3) on steering head to a torque of 24 Nm ±5%.
Refit hose clips (P) on the steering head and tighten screws (V) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10%.
Fit front support (8) on RH support (22) and front splash guard (24) on LH support (23), by inserting pins
(P) of the splash guard in the support holes.
Note
For a correct installation of the supports, the pins must completely come out of the insertion opposite side.
Position the front speed cable (G) and the brake hose (H) in the suitable seats on the front support (J) of
splash guard (6), as shown in the figure.
For a correct positioning of the brake hose (H) it is necessary to insert collar (K) of rubber element (L)
inside guides (M) located on the front support (J).
Position front support (8) of splash guard (6) on bottom yoke (9) by tightening screws (4) to a torque of 4
Nm ± 10%.
Fix supports (22) and (23) of splash guard (6) to air conveyors (T) by tightening screws (4) to a torque of
4 Nm ± 10%.
Refit fork legs (Refitting the front fork).
Refit the handlebar on the steering head (Refitting the handlebar).
Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard).
Refit the headlight (Replacing the headlight).
Removing the steering tube components
Remove the headlight (Replacing the headlight).

Removing the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard).
Removing the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
Remove fork legs (Removing the front fork).
Remove the handlebar from the steering head (Removing the handlebar).
Warning
All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the
motorcycle provided they do not hinder the following operations.
Loosen screws (4) retaining supports (5) and (7) of splash guard (6) to air conveyors (T).
Loosen screws (4) retaining front support (8) of splash guard (6) to bottom yoke (9).
Loosen screws (V) to release cable rings (P) from the steering head (10).
Loosen the screw (11) securing the steering head (10) to the ring nut (12).
Remove the steering head (10).
With tool no. 88713.1058 loosen the ring nut (12) and unscrew it from the steering shaft.
Slide the sealing ring (13), the inner ring (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing off the steering
shaft.
Remove the bottom yoke (9) complete with the steering shaft from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing.
The inner ring (A) of the lower bearing and the sealing ring (13) will remain on the steering shaft.
Using a universal puller (see figure), remove the inner ring (A) and the spacer from the steering shaft,
taking care not to damage the seat.
Important
Once removed, the sealing rings and the bearings must not be refitted.
Using a suitable punch, remove the outer bearing rings (C) from the steering tube. Proceed with extreme
care to avoid damaging the seats.
Disassembling the steering head

Loosen and remove screws (14), washers (15) and lower U-bolts (16) and (17) from the steering head.
Reassembling the steering head

If the spacers (18) were removed from the steering head, lubricate with silicone spray.
Seat the spacers (18) in the holes (D) of the steering head, aiming them as shown in the figure.
Important
Spacers must be fitted by working on the external ring and counter-holding in the steering head lower part.
Upon completion of the operation, clean all excess lubricant from the components.
Position the lower U-bolts (16) and (17) on the steering head. Start screws (14) with washers (15) on the
lower U-bolts (16) and (17).
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Adjust steering bearing clearance as explained in "Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance".
If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering bearings (1) and replace them, if
necessary, as described in paragraph “Removing the steering tube components” of this section.
Reassembling the rear shock absorber - rocker arm - linkage assembly
If needle roller bearings (15) have been previously removed from rocker arm (10), upon reassembly insert
a new needle roller bearing (15) on drift no. 88713.1071 and lubricate with specified grease.
Duly support the rocker arm and push the needle roller bearings fully against the rocker arm tool.
Important
Insert them in line with the hole avoiding hard spots: if necessary use a press.
Fit a new sealing ring (16) with the metallic side facing outwards on the drift and bring it fully against the
previously fitted needle roller bearing.
Repeat the same operations for the other needle roller bearing (15) and sealing ring (16).
Insert inner spacer (17).
Position linkages (12) and (13) on rocker arm (10) by starting screw (11).
Apply recommended grease on threaded part of screw (11) and on nut (14) mating surface.
Fit nut (14) on screw (11).
Grease thread and underhead of screw (9) securing upper shock absorber (8) and start it in the rocker
arm.
If the shock absorber tank covers have been removed, apply rubber lubricant on the internal surface of
rubber cover (19). Fit cover (19) on shock absorber tank (A) and engage tab (B).
Rotate cover (19) until surface (C) is almost against union (D).
Apply specified lubricant on tank support (20) internal surface.

Position support (20) on cover (19) until surface (E) is almost against union (D).
Block cover (19) and support (20) by positioning clips (21) so that the needle roller bearing outer profile is
approximately 20 cm from the support (20) edge.
Note
To position the upper clip in its seat indicated by the yellow arrow, it is necessary to open it completely.
Fit plate (22) on preload adjustment handle (2) by starting screws (1) with specified threadlocker.
Tighten the screws.
Disassembling the rear shock absorber - rocker arm - linkage assembly
Undo screw (9) and remove rear shock absorber (8) from rocker arm (10).
Loosen screw (11) and nut (14) and remove linkages (12) and (13) from rocker arm (10).
The rocker arm is moved by means of needle roller bearings (9) working on spacer (13); on the outer ends
there are two seals (8) that keep the inner side of the needle roller bearings lubricated.
After sliding the internal spacer (13), remove seals (8) and needle roller bearings (9) using a suitable drift.
Important
Upon removal, pay attention not to damage the rocker arm seat. Once removed, the used sealing rings and
needle roller bearings must not be refitted.
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Important
For any problem concerning the shock absorber operation, contact a SACHS authorised service centre.
Refitting the shock absorber support
If previously removed, apply specified grease to the threads of adjusters (26) and ring nuts (25) and check
that no grease reaches adjuster surface (C).
Screw the adjusters on the ring nut side opposite to the one with the keys until bringing the surfaces flush
with each other, as shown in the figure.
Start (on the support external side) adjusters (26) in the bushes on support.
Tighten adjusters (26) to a torque of 0.6 Nm ± 10%.
Note
If the specified torque is not enough to screw the adjusters, the frame or the adjusters might be non-
conforming.
Loosen adjusters (26) until their surfaces are flush with the internal profiles of the support bushes.
If previously removed, apply specified grease to the threads of adjuster (27) and ring nut (25) and check
that no grease reaches adjuster surface (C).
Screw the adjuster on the ring nut side opposite to the one with the keys until bringing the surfaces flush
Manually start and screw (approximately 2 threads) adjuster (27) on the external side of side stand (G)
plate.
During this operation, make sure that ring nut (25) remains flush with the external surface of adjuster (27).
Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of screws (L) and (H).
Position shock absorber support (4) and side stand (G) on engine LH side by starting screws (L) and (H).
Insert one suitable centring pin (U1) in adjuster (27) and make sure the pin hexagon properly engages with
the adjuster hexagon socket.
Insert bushing (28) to keep all fitted elements fixed.
Insert (on the RH side) one suitable centring pin (U2) on front adjuster (4) and one centring pin (U3) on
rear adjuster (26). Make sure that pin hexagon parts properly engage with the adjuster hexagon sockets.
Pre-tighten screws (L) and (H) to 7 Nm ± 10%, following a 1-2-3 sequence.
Remove the front centring pin (U2) on the RH side.

Tighten the front adjuster (26) to a torque of 0.6 Nm ± 10% and check that it is fully against the casing.
Still working on the RH side, position front centring pin (U2) having care that pin hexagon properly engages
with the adjuster hexagon socket.
Remove rear centring pin (U3).
Working on the RH side, insert rear centring pin (U3) from the casing internal side, by placing a suitable
spacer (V1) between casing and RH rear suspension support bracket (S).
Tighten the rear adjuster (26) to a torque of 0.6 Nm ± 10% and check that it is fully against bracket (S).
Working on the RH side, remove rear centring pin (U3) from the internal side and insert it again from
outside while keeping RH spacer (V1) in position.
Warning
Make sure that the pin hexagon properly engages with the adjuster hexagon socket.
Fit on front ring nut (25) the special wrench no. 88713.3166 and fit the torque wrench on it. Tighten the
front adjuster front ring nut (25) to a torque of 100 Nm ± 5%, by holding the adjuster by means of centring
pin (U2).
Then, fit on rear ring nut (25) the special wrench no. 88713.3166 and fit the torque wrench on it. Tighten
the rear adjuster rear ring nut (25) to a torque of 100 Nm ± 5%, by holding the adjuster by means of
centring pin (U3).
Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of front screw (24).
Working on the RH side, remove the front centring pin and, in the same position, start front screw (24) and
finger-tighten it all the way down.
Remove rear centring pin (U3) and RH spacer (V1).
Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of rear screw (24).
Start rear screw (24) and screw nut (29) on the opposite side.
Tighten front screw (24) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten rear screw (24) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding nut (29).
On the left side, tighten screws (L) to 45 Nm ± 10%, following a 1-2 sequence.
Then tighten screw (H) securing the side stand plate to the shock absorber support to a torque of 45 Nm ±
10%.
Remove centring pin (U1).
Insert centring pin (U1) from the casing internal side, by placing a suitable spacer (V2) between casing and
LH rear suspension support bracket (S).
Working on the LH side, tighten the adjuster to a torque of 0.6 Nm ± 10% and make sure it is fully against
the rear LH suspension support bracket (S).
Remove centring pin (U1) from the internal side and insert it again from outside while keeping LH spacer
(V2) in position.
Warning
Make sure that the pin hexagon properly engages with the adjuster hexagon socket.
Fit on ring nut (25) the special wrench no. 88713.3166 and fit the torque wrench on it.
Tighten ring nut (25) to a torque of 100 Nm ± 5%, by holding the adjuster by means of centring pin (U1)
that is fitted inside of it.
Remove centring pin (U1) and spacer (V2).
Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underhead of the left side screw (23).
On the left side, start screw (23) and screw nut (29) on the opposite side.
Tighten screw (23) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding nut (29).
Remove bushing (28).
Removing the shock absorber support
Remove the rear brake master cylinder (Removing the complete rear brake control).
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Loosen screws (24) and (23) and the relevant nuts.
Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).

Refitting the rear suspension
Use specified grease to lubricate thread and underhead of special screw (7).
Insert the shock absorber lower part in the swinging arm by starting screw (7).
Tighten the screw (7) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
Use specified grease to lubricate bushings (5) and (6).

Position the shock absorber upper part on the supporting plate by starting bushing (6) on the vehicle LH
side and bushing (5) on the RH side.
Tighten bushing (5) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding bushing (6).
Position tank assembly (S) of shock absorber support (4) and tighten screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±
10%.
Position knob (2) on the frame and tighten screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10 %.
Removing the rear shock absorber
Loosen screws (1) and remove the knob (2) from the frame.
Loosen screws (3) and remove the tank unit (S) of the shock absorber from support (4).
Loosen the RH bushing (5) by holding the LH bushing (6) to release the front part of the shock absorber
unit.
Undo the special screw (7) and remove the shock absorber unit from the vehicle.
Rear suspension system
The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock absorber adjustable for compression rebound and
spring preload.
The system consists of a rocker arm and two linkages fixed to the swinging arm and the engine.
Shock absorber pivots onto a swinging arm at the bottom and engine at the top. The whole system gives
the motorcycle excellent stability.
For rear shock absorber adjustment, refer to “Adjusting the rear shock absorber”.
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (15).

Fit the lower chain guard (17) in the swinging arm (14) and secure it in place by tightening screws (15) to 4
Nm ±10%.
Locate the swinging arm (14) on the frame.

Use specified grease to lubricate swingarm shaft (20) with screw (19) and insert it fully against the frame
by inserting the swingarm shaft in brackets (28).
On the opposite side of the motorcycle fasten the swingarm shaft (20) with screw (19) after having
smeared it with specified grease, fitting washer (2) between the swinging arm and the frame.
Position the rear brake hose, the rear speed sensor cable and the rear wiring on the swinging arm by
starting screw (13) of cable ring (12).
Reposition the upper chain sliding shoe (18) and hose clips (16) by tightening screws (15) to a torque of 4
Nm ± 10%.
Refit the eccentric hub as described in "Refitting the rear eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft".
Reconnect the shock absorber (Refitting the rear suspension).

Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Refit the rear sprocket (Refitting the rear sprocket).
Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard).
Refit the exhaust silencers (Refitting the exhaust system).
Overhauling the rear swinging arm
Two ball bearings (21) and a spacer (22) are present on the right-hand side and two needle roller bearings
(23), with sealing rings (24), are present on the left-hand side inside the swinging arm (14), at the pivot
point on the frame.
To replace the bearings proceed as follows.

Remove spacers (25) and (26) from swinging arm (14) RH side and bushing (27) from the LH side.
Remove the ball bearings (21), sealing rings (24) and needle roller bearings (23), using a suitable punch
and a press.
Duly support the swinging arm and pay utmost attention to avoid damaging the seats during removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings, sealing rings and needle roller bearings must not be refitted.
Evenly heat up the swinging arm at 150 °C and duly support it.
Apply specified grease in the swinging arm bearing seat.
Note
Upon refitting, the O-rings must be positioned so that the flat surface faces the outside part and the needle
roller bearings (6) have the marked side facing outwards.
Insert the new needle roller bearings (23) in drift no. 88713.1068 and insert them from the outside in the
swinging arm LH seat.
Push until bringing the tool fully against the swinging arm.
Using the same drift, insert the new O-rings (24) as shown in the figure, and bring them near the just
fitted bearings.
To fit ball bearings (21) it is necessary to have tool (B) no. 88713.2409 consisting of:
(A) - drift for internal bearing;
(B) - drift for external bearing;
(C) - guide pin.
Apply specified grease in the swinging arm bearing seat.
Note
Upon reassembly, bearings must be set in such a way that the side with marks is facing outwards.
Insert one new bearing (21) and internal spacer (22) on drift (A) and position it on the internal side of the
swinging arm RH support.
Insert guide pin (C) in the previously fitted bearings and insert its end in drift (A) internal hole.
Take pin (21) fully home into the swinging arm. Insert the other new bearing (21) in the external end of
drift (A).
Use drift (A) to hold and drift (B) to bring the external bearing fully against spacer (22): slide out the used
tools.
Refit spacers (25) and (26) on swinging arm (14) RH side and bushing (27) on the LH side.
Note
The spacer with thicker external collar and that with thinner external collar must be fitted respectively on
the swinging arm external and internal side.
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (20), check it carefully for distortion.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge (Rear wheel).
Removing the swinging arm
Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the exhaust system).

Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket).
Remove the rear brake calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Remove the shock absorber from the swinging arm (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).
Remove the rear eccentric hub as described in "Removing the rear eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft" of this
section.
Undo screws (15) to remove hose clips (16), (17) and (18).
Release the rear brake hose, the rear speed sensor cable and the rear wiring from the swinging arm by
loosening screws (13) and collecting cable rings (12).
It is possible to check the supporting bearing play while the swinging arm (14) is still fitted on the
motorcycle frame.
Try to move the rear of the swinging arm (14) in the four directions.
Any abnormal movement is a sign of worn bearings that could cause bike instability.
To check the free play of the support bearings, refer to the relevant section.
Once the play in the support bearings has been checked, the rear swinging arm (14) may be removed from
the motorcycle.
Hold the swingarm shaft (20) with the screws (19) on the bike left side, and at the same time loosen the
screw (19) on the opposite side: collect the washer.
Using the punch no. 88713.1074, fully extract the swinging arm shaft.
Remove the swinging arm (14) assembly from the frame.
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
Refitting is the reverse of removal, with attention to the following points. If the calliper bracket locating pin
(11) was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker upon reassembly.
Tighten shaft (11) to a torque of 33 Nm ± 5%.
If previously removed, fit cable ring (12) as shown and tighten screw (13) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Before refitting, apply recommended grease on the eccentric hub (10).

Fit hub (10) on the swinging arm (14) side, and push it fully home.
Note
During the procedure it is necessary to open hub seat on swinging arm out just as much as necessary to
allow hub insertion.
Make sure that the eccentric hub (10) position to swinging arm (14) is with the horizontal axis (D) of the
hub hole (B) below the horizontal axis (C) of the hub seat.
Apply recommended grease on seals (9) and position them in the seat of plate (7). Fit washer (8) on
eccentric hub (10). Fit plate (7) to swinging arm: shaft (11) must match dead hole (T) on plate (7).
Refit the other washer (8) on eccentric hub (10).
Fasten plate (7) by fitting circlip (6) in the relevant groove (F) on hub (10). Circlip (6) must be positioned
with sharp edge outward.
Note
Once this operation is completed, visually check that circlip is perfectly inserted in groove (F).
Apply an even coating of the recommended grease in the areas (A) of the shaft (4).
Insert the rear wheel shaft (4) in hub (10).
Ensure the wheel shaft (4) is seated in the hub.
Fit the inner ring (2) on the wheel shaft (4).
Insert the inner ring (2) in the hub.
Apply recommended grease to screws (3) and tighten to 35 Nm ±5% in the 1-2-1 sequence.
Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Refit the rear sprocket (Refitting the rear sprocket).
Refit the exhaust silencers (Refitting the exhaust system).
Tension the chain as described in "Adjusting the chain tension".

Removing the rear wheel eccentric hub and the rear wheel shaft
Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the exhaust system).

Remove the rear sprocket (Replacing the rear sprocket).
Remove the rear brake calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Loosen the three screws (3).

Remove the spacer (1) and the inner ring (2) on the chain side, and remove the wheel shaft (4) with the
brake disc (5) from the opposite side.
Remove the circlip (6) on the wheel side of the eccentric hub.
Remove washers (8), O-ring (9) and calliper holder plate (7) with the other O-ring (9).
Slide out the eccentric hub (10) from swinging arm chain side.
Note
The rear hub is very important for vehicle dynamic safety; it is available as a single spare part since you
must not service its internal parts; part no. 756.2.013.1A.
Washing the chain
Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin.

Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings.
For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Refitting the front sprocket
Grease the O-ring (9), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (8).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of
the bearing.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (1) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown. Fit lockwasher (7).
Block nut (6) to a torque of 186 Nm ± 5%, lubricate with specified grease and tighten.
Bend the washer (7) over the nut.
Fit the chain and close it using the tool (A) no. 88713.1344, which was used to open the chain.
The tool consists of a holder (B), a punch (C), a body (D), two wrenches (E) and (F) and a plate holder (G).
Connect the two ends of the chain with the external link, and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit holder (B) onto the external link.

Fit punch (C) on body (D) and plate holder (G).
Fit body (D) in holder (B) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn bolt (H) until plate holder (G) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (E) and (F) to turn bolt (H) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (G).
Remove holder (B) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (H) until the punch (C) is brought into contact with the pin to be riveted, taking care
that they are aligned.
Use wrenches (E) and (F) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (C) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete riveting, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension).

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (6).
Fit the sprocket cover (4) and tighten the screws (6) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10%.
Removing the front sprocket
Undo the screws (5), and remove the chain cover (4).
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove the chain using tool (A) no. 88713.1344.

The tool consists of a holder (B), a punch (C), a body (D) and two wrenches (E) and (F).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (B).
Fit the punch (C) into the body (D) and manually undo the bolt until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (B) and the link into the body (D).
Manually turn the bolt (G) on body (D) so that the punch (C) gets against the pin, taking care that they are
aligned.
Fit the hexagon wrench (E) into the hexagonal part of the body (D) and the wrench (F) onto the bolt.
Turn clockwise the bolt (G) until the pin comes out.
Remove the chain.
Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (6).
Remove the nut (6) and the lockwasher (7) on the sprocket.
Remove the front sprocket (1) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Remove spacer (8) with O-ring (9) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Important
The O-ring must be renewed upon removal.
Inspection of the final drive
To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2).
The figure shows "Normal" sprocket profile with line (X) and "Worn" sprocket profile with broken line (Y).
If the teeth are found to be worn as shown in the figure (broken line - Y), the sprocket must be replaced.
To check the chain (3), keep the chain taut and measure 16 links.
If the length (L) is greater than 256.5 mm, the chain should be replaced.
Important
The front and rear sprockets and chain must all be replaced together as a set.
Lubricating the chain
O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need to be lubricated at
regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain
both inside and outside (Fluids and lubricants).
Refitting the rear sprocket
Check the cush drive dampers (15) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the
flange.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Apply the recommended grease to the outer diameter of rear sprocket holder flange (14).
Fit rear sprocket flange (14) onto rear sprocket (17), engaging cush drive damper pins (15).
Apply recommended threadlocker to the nut thread (13).
Start nuts on cush drive damper pins threaded end (15).
Tighten the nuts (13) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 10%, following a cross pattern.
Check the wear state following the instructions provided at the beginning of this section.
To refit the nut (14), follow the specifications for the wheel locking nut, in "Refitting the rear wheel".
Position retainer (10) as shown in the figure.

Refit the exhaust silencers (Refitting the silencer).
Tension the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
Replacing the rear sprocket
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).

Remove the exhaust silencers (Removing the silencer).
Restrain wheel shaft against rotation.

Remove the circlip (10).
Using a suitable socket wrench, loosen nut (11).
Fully unscrew the nut (11) and remove the washer (12) and the flange (14) with the sprocket (17).
Collect spacer (16).
Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (14) with the cush drive damper (15) off the rear sprocket (17).
Refitting the rear footpegs
Note
Refitting of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Position footpeg (12) on the rear subframe RH plate.

Fasten footpeg (12) starting shaft (11) after applying recommended threadlocker.
Tighten shaft (11) to a torque of 30 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the rear footpegs
Note
Removing of the rear RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the same
procedure.
Loosen pin (11) and remove the RH rear footpeg (12) from the frame.
Collect washer (8) and O-rings (9).
To remove rear footpeg (13) from holder (12) remove snap ring (14) and slide out pin (15).
Release the footpeg, plates (16), ball (17) and spring (18).
Refitting the front footpegs
Note
The refitting of the front RH footpeg is described in detail; the LH footpeg can be removed following the
same procedure.
Position spring (3) so that the end (A) rests on the footpeg (1).
Position footpeg (1) inserting the end (C) of spring (3) in the hole (D) of the frame plate.
Apply the recommended grease to pin (2).
Fit pin (2) as shown.
Lock pin using circlip (4).
If previously removed, refit footpeg cover (6) on footpeg (1) by inserting drift (E) in seat (F) on footpeg (1)
until its engagement.
Note
For ease of operation, lubricate the footpeg cover with rubber lubricant.
Start screw (7) on the lower side of footpeg (1) and tighten it to torque.
Removing the front footpegs
Note
The removal of the front footpegs is described in detail for the RH footpeg and applies to both the LH and
the RH footpeg.
Remove the circlip (4) thereby releasing the pin (2).

Slide out pin (2), while supporting the footpeg (1).
Slide out footpeg (1) from its seat and collect spring (3).
Refitting the front footpeg holder plates
To refit plates (8) and (10) follow the removal reverse procedure; in particular, tighten screws (9) to a
torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the front footpeg holder plates
To remove the RH front footpeg holder plate (8) remove the rear brake master cylinder tank by leaving it
connected to the braking system and remove the rear brake lever from the footpeg (Removing the complete
rear brake control).
To remove the front RH footpeg holder plate (8) it is furthermore necessary to remove the RH silencer
support from the plate (Removing the exhaust system).
To remove the front LH footpeg holder plate (10) remove the gearchange lever from the plate (Removing the
gear shift).
Undo screws (9) to remove plates (8) and (10).
Refitting the side stand
Position the stand plate on the rear shock absorber support; adjuster (13) must be aligned with bracket (S)
and start screw (5) with the nut located behind bracket (S).
Start screws (4), (2) and (3) fully home without tightening.
Tighten screw (5) with the relevant nut, tighten adjuster (13) to 0.6 Nm ± 10% and pre-tighten screw (5)
to 2 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding the nut.
Keep adjuster (13) blocked and tighten ring nut (14) to a torque of 100 Nm ±5%.
Tighten screws (4), (2) and (3) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 10% in this sequence.
Then, tighten screw (5) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding the nut.
Connect the side stand switch connector (A) to the main wiring.
To position stand switch wiring, refer to table (Routing of wiring on frame).
Refit the RH belly pan (Refitting the lug).
Removing the side stand
Remove the RH belly pan (Removing the lug).
Disconnect connector (A) of the stand switch (1) from the main wiring.
Undo screws (2), (3), (4) and (5) retaining the side stand support plate (6) to the engine and remove the
complete side stand.
Disassembling the side stand
Undo the retaining screw (7) and remove the side stand switch (1).
Release stand return springs (8) and (9) disengaging them from retainers (A) and (B).
Unscrew the pin (10) securing the side stand to the bracket and remove side stand (11) and nut (12).
Inspecting the side stand
Fit the side stand to the plate and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the
side stand are not bent with respect to the shank.
A side stand which shows signs of cracking must be replaced immediately.
Reassembling the side stand

Grease the side stand (11) and fit it to the plate (6). Secure it with the pin (10) and the nut (12).
Position the side stand return springs (8) and (9) and attach them to fasteners (A) and (B) on bracket and
stand.
Place switch (1) on plate (6) by inserting sensor pin (C) in stand hole (D) and align stand pin (E) with
sensor groove (F).
Fit the retaining screw (7) with recommended threadlocker and tighten to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%.
Refitting the glove compartment
Position the glove compartment assembly (6) on the lateral plates (7) and (8) by tightening screws (5) to a
torque of 14 Nm ± 5 %.
Place cover (4) on glove compartment (6), by positioning wiring (C) in the suitable area on cover (16).
While positioning cover (4) on compartment (6) it is necessary to work on bracket (E) of lock latch (D) in
the direction indicated by the arrow, so that lock cable end (H) does not remain crushed.
Check the presence of tie (F) on cover (16).
Fix cover (4) by tightening screws (3) to the torque of 4 Nm ± 10 %.
Position splash guard (1) and tighten screws (2) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Checking the frame
Compare the dimensions of the frame with the values indicated here to determine whether it needs to be
re-aligned or replaced.
Important
Damaged frames must be changed, not repaired. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to
potential danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturer's liability and general
product safety.
Frame overall dimensions (mm)

Removing the glove compartment
To remove the glove compartment from the side plates, loosen screws (2) and remove splash guard (1).
Loosen screws (3) and remove cover (4).

Move the wiring section from seat (A) on the compartment.
Loosen screws (5) to remove the glove compartment (6) from side plates (7) and (8).
Refitting frame and side plates
Apply specified grease on pin (10) threads and nuts (12).

Place frame (9) and plates (7) and (8) on the engine block. Start pins (10) by counter-holding nuts (12)
and insert screws (11) without tightening them in adjusters (15)
Position and fix the rear shock absorber support on crankcase and the swinging arm brackets (Refitting the
shock absorber support).
On the swinging arm shaft RH side, tighten screw (V) to a torque of 72 Nm ± 5%, by counter-holding screw
(Z) on the LH side.
Tighten the indicated front nut (12) to 60 Nm ± 5%, by holding pin (10) on the LH side.
Refit glove compartment (6) as explained in the following paragraph and tighten the rear screws (5) to a
Tighten the indicated rear nut (12) to 60 Nm ± 5%, by holding pin (10) on the LH side.
Working first on the LH side and then on the RH side, remove special screws (11) and tighten adjusters
(15) to a torque of 0.5 Nm ±10%. Make sure that they are fully against the rear subframe plates.
Keep adjusters (15) blocked and tighten ring nuts (16) to a torque of 100 Nm ±5%.
Lubricate thread and head of special screws (11) and tighten them on the frame to a torque of 55 Nm ±
5%.
Tighten front screws (5) securing the glove compartment (6) to 14 Nm ± 5%.
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Check the presence of clip nuts (13).
Apply specified grease to the threads of adjusters (15) and ring nuts (16) and check that no grease reaches
adjuster surface (C).
Screw the adjusters on the ring nut side opposite to the one with the keys until bringing the surfaces flush
Start (on the frame external side) adjusters (15) in bushes (D) on frame (9).
Tighten adjusters (15) to 0.6 Nm ± 10%, until they come out (on the opposite side) by at least 2 mm, as
shown.
Note
If the specified torque is not enough to screw the adjusters, the frame or the adjusters might be non-
conforming.
Loosen adjusters (15) until their surfaces are flush with the internal profiles of bushes (D), as shown.
Check the presence of damping pads (G) on tray (6).
Note
Should it be difficult to fit the vibration damping pads, use lubricant for rubber.
Check the presence of rubber elements (T) on tray (6).

The rubber elements are correctly fitted if caps (P) come out completely on the insertion opposite side.
Check the presence of clips (17) and make sure they are positioned as shown, i.e. on the holes located on
the front side of glove compartment (6).
Note
The clip threaded holes must be perfectly aligned with the holes in the glove compartment.
Position nut (21) in the suitable seat on compartment (6).
Fit immobilizer antenna (22) as shown in the figure, then tighten screw (23) on nut (21) to a torque of 2
Nm ± 10 %.
Fix the immobilizer antenna cable to the compartment using the three self-locking ties.
Start screw (18) on pin (19).
Position the tank supporting shaft (20) in its seat on the glove compartment (6), and insert the pin until the
previously started screw (18) is fully against compartment (6).
Start screw (18) on the free side of pin (19) and tighten it to 10 Nm ± 10 %, by holding the other screw
(18) on the other side.
Check the presence of clip (E) on the rear subframe (8) LH plate.
If the black-box has been removed from the rear subframe (8) LH plate, upon reassembly start and tighten
by hand silent blocks (F) on plate (8). Fit toothed washers (L) on silent block (F) threaded pins.
Fit the black-box support bracket (M) and tighten nuts (5).
Position control unit (Q) fully home, in the rubber gaiter (R).
Position control unit/rubber gaiter assembly.
Fix them by means of slots (S) on the support tabs.
Removing frame and side plates
To separate frame (9) from side plates (7) and (8), loosen the two special screws (11).
Working on the vehicle LH side, block pins (10) and at the same time loosen nuts (12) on the RH side.
Slide out pins (10) and remove frame (9) from the side plates and the engine block.
Removing structural components and frame
Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the
removal procedures outlined in the relevant sections of this manual.
The rear subframes are structural components of the frame.
Both serve to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.
The following chart illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the
motorcycle and a reference to the section where the removal procedure is described.

Remove the tank half-fairings (Removing the tank fairings).
Remove the air conveyors (Removing the air filters).
Remove the handlebar right and left controls.
Remove the front brake control (Removing the front brake master cylinder).
Remove the hydraulic clutch control (Removing the clutch master cylinder assembly).
Remove the handlebar (Removing the handlebar).
Remove the headlight support (Replacement of the headlight).
Remove the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard).
Remove the front fork (Removing the front fork).
Remove the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox and throttle
body).
Remove the supply system and the injectors from the intake manifolds.
Disconnect the cables from the coils.
Remove the lug (Removing the lug).
Remove the oil cooler (Removing the lubrication system).
Disconnect the starter motor/solenoid starter cable.
Remove the battery and electric component support (Removing the electric component support).
Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand).
Remove the footpegs (Removing the front footpegs).
Drain the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the oil cooler hoses from the engine block (Removing the lubrication system).
Remove the water radiators (Removing the water radiators).
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift).
Remove the front sprocket (Removing the front sprocket).
Remove the rear brake control and system (Removing the complete rear brake control).
Remove the rear shock absorber support from the engine block (Rear suspension system).
Remove the rear swinging arm (Removing the rear swinging arm).
Remove the number plate holder (Removing the number plate holder).
Disconnect the wiring connectors on the frame (Routing of wiring on frame).
Refitting the tail light
Fit the left front light assembly and the right front light assembly (2) onto the glove compartment by driving
pins (4) fully home inside the vibration damping pads present on glove compartment.
Secure the light (2) tightening screws (3) to the specified torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the tail light
Disconnect connectors (1) of the tail lights (2).

Undo screws (3) to remove the two tail lights from pins (4).
Refitting the number plate holder
Fit the number plate light (4) on the relevant holder (5), as shown in the figure, and tighten screws (6) to a
Route numberplate light wiring (7) in the opening on the numberplate holder plate, as shown.
Fit vibration damping pads (8) in the relevant holes on the numberplate holder plate (5). Position splash
guard (10) on the numberplate holder subframe (3).
Apply specified threadlocker on the screw thread (9).
Fix splash guard (10) by tightening screws (9) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Position numberplate light wiring (7) in the seat on the numberplate holder plate (5), as shown.
Insert connector (11) of numberplate light wiring (7) in hole (12) of numberplate holder subframe (3) by
sliding it until it comes out of the hole on the opposite side.
Fit the numberplate holder plate (5) on subframe (3) by inserting special screws (13) in the previously fitted
vibration damping pads and by starting nuts (14) on the opposite side.
Slide plate (5) along slots (15) of subframe (3) until they reach the lower side.
Tighten the special screws (13) to 5 Nm ± 10%, by holding nuts (14) on the opposite side.
Position the assembly on the swinging arm and tighten screws (2) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the number plate holder
Disconnect the number plate holder wiring connector (1) from the main wiring.
Release the number plate holder light cable from the ties and the cable rings.
Loosen screws (2) and remove the number plate holder system (3) from the swinging arm.
Refitting the fuel tank
If the tank has been disassembled in all its components, tighten screws (13) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%.
Refit the tank inserting the rear side on the pin available on the frame, as shown in the figure.
Lubricate the O-rings (L), fitted on the fuel pipe unions (C), with rubber-specific lubricant.
Connect the two quick-release fittings (C) of fuel pipes, following the disassembly sequence and ensuring
that the delivery pipe is fitted on the union marked with OUT and the return pipe on the union marked with
IN.
Connect connector (D) of fuel level sensor to main wiring.
Fit fuel pipes (12) inside cable rings (14).

Refit the flange cover (A) tightening the screws (B) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10%.
Working on both sides of tank filler plug, correctly position the breather pipes (8) and (15) and fit them on
the plug.
Make sure that tank (1) is properly positioned and tighten the retaining screws (4) to a torque of 10 Nm
±10%.

Refitting the fuel tank flange
Fit the flange (20) into the special seat of tank (1).
Start screws (19) with the recommended threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of 6 Nm ±10%,
following the specified sequence.
Refitting the fuel level sensor
Insert level sensor inside tank, and tighten ring nut (X) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the connector.
Connect the connector (Y).

Changing the tank flange and the fuel level sensor
Loosen screws (19) securing tank flange (20).

Remove the complete flange (20) from tank (1).
Collect the seal (21).

Undo and remove the two fixing screws (G) and move the protection (F).
Before refitting, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Note
The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: the entire
flange assembly must be replaced in the event of malfunction.
Removing the fuel level sensor
Disconnect connector (Y) and loosen fuel level sensor (X).

Refitting the tank filler plug
Position the gasket (18) in the tank filler plug (10), as shown in the figure, and reassemble carrying out the
disassembly operations in reverse order.
In particular, tighten screws (17) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the tank filler plug cover (Refitting the tank fairings).
Removing the tank filler plug
Remove the tank filler plug cover (Removing the tank fairings).
Remove pipes (8) and (15).

Open the filler plug (10).
Loosen the external screws (17) securing the ring nut to the fuel tank recess.
Remove the complete filler plug (10).
Removing the fuel tank

Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings)
In the USA version, remove filter as shown in the Canister filter removal chapter (Removing the Canister filter).
Loosen and remove the screws securing the tank filler plug cover (4).
Loosen the screws (B) and remove the flange cover (A).
Disconnect the quick-release fittings (C) from the flange and the fuel level sensor connector (D) from main
wiring.
Working on both tank filler plug sides, slide out the two breather pipes (8) and (15), taking care not to
damage them.
Release fuel pipes (12) from cable rings (14).

Remove the tank lifting it and working on the back side.
Refitting the injectors
Working on both intake manifolds, ensure that O-rings (2) and (Q) are installed on injectors (3).
Apply the specified grease on the O-rings (2) and (Q) of injectors (3), thoroughly avoiding to leave any
product residue on injector surface and using the quantity of product strictly necessary to carry out the
following assembly operations.
Insert injector (3) onto fuel pipe unit union (R).
Important
In order to avoid damaging the O-rings, drive the injectors fully home on the intake manifolds, keeping
them in line with their relevant seats.
Insert injectors (3) into their seats on intake manifolds, aiming them so that teeth (T) are correctly
positioned, as indicated.
Working on both intake manifolds, position the fuel pipe unions on the injectors.
Important
In order to avoid damaging the injector O-rings, insert the unions keeping them in line with the injectors.
Holding the unions pressed down on the injectors, start and tighten screws (P) fully home.
Tighten the retaining screw (P) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Connect connectors (N) of main wiring to injectors.
Reassembling airbox – throttle body
If removed, fit the seals (13) in the suitable seats on airbox (1).
Note
In order to make the seal fitting easier, use rubber-specific lubricant.
If removed, insert the seals (15) in the relevant seats (K) of intake funnels (26).
If removed, refit the intake funnels (14) on the throttle body (4), apply recommended threadlocker to the
screws (5) and tighten to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10%, following the sequence indicated in the figure.
Important
After having tightened the screws, visually inspect the seals, previously fitted on the intake funnels, making
sure that they have not come out of their seats and that the intake funnels are perfectly seated inside the
throttle body.
Secure the throttle body (4) to the airbox (1).
Position the retaining screws (16) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%, following the sequence
indicated in the figure.
If removed, refit the throttle cables as follows: install the opening (M) and closing (H) cables inside their
seats on plate (W) of throttle body (4), as shown in the figure.
Note
Insert the nipples (T) in the relevant seats of the pulley. Keeping everything oriented as shown in figure,
fasten the cables (M) and (H) by inserting the nuts (L).
Tighten nuts (L) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Set dust seals (V) on the ends of throttle cable sheaths.
Ensure that clamp (21) of hose (26) is positioned as indicated.
Refitting the airbox and throttle body
Position the airbox (1).

Working on the left side of the vehicle, connect connector (F) of TPS/DIV motor.
Working on the right side of the vehicle, connect connector (E) of APS.
Check the presence of vibration damping pads (20) on map-sensor support bracket (19).
Drive the spacers with collar (18) fully home on the vibration damping pads (20).
If previously removed, refit coils:
Horizontal head coil
Position rubber elements (23) and shims (24) inside the two holes of coil support bracket (22).
Fit coil (25) inside support bracket (22).

Secure coil (25) aiming it as shown in the figure, insert the two screws (26) on the indicated side, and
secure in place with the two nuts (27).
Vertical head coil
Position rubber elements (23) and shims (24) inside the two holes of coil support bracket (22).
Fit coil (25) inside support bracket (22).

Secure coil (25) aiming it as shown in the figure, insert the two screws (26) on the indicated side, and
secure in place with the two nuts (27).
Connect spark plug cables as shown in the figure.
Secure the two coils to the airbox using the two screws (28).
Connect spark plug cables as shown in the figure.
Note
Two spacers with collar must be fitted on the upper side of bracket and the other two, on the lower side.
Position map-sensors (9) on bracket (19), as indicated, and secure them starting nuts (10).
Note
While fitting map-sensors, ensure that they are properly installed in the relevant seats on bracket, as
indicated.

Fit two clamps (11) on the long pipe (C1) and on the short one (C2), respectively.
Install the long pipe (C1) and the short one (C2) on map-sensors (9), so that the arrows on map-sensor
support bracket (19) match with the marks on pipes (C1) and (C2).
Secure pipe (C1) and pipe (C2) using clamps (11).
Refit air pressure sensors (9) with support (19), starting and tightening screws (17) to a torque of 5 Nm
±10%.
Lock pipes (C) of air pressure sensors (9) with clip (D), fitted on airbox.
Position clamps (6) as indicated, and tighten them to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10%.
Fit clamp (21) on drain pipe (26), if the latter has been previously removed.
Fit drain pipe (26) by inserting it fully home on the union (U), available on airbox (1).
Position clamp (21) as indicated.
Secure drain pipe (26) tightening clamp (21).
Refit the blow-by hose to the airbox, tightening clamp (6) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%.
Refit plate (B) that secures main wiring to airbox, tightening screws (A) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%.
Refit the control unit (Refitting the ABS control unit).

Refit control unit and the relevant support.
Refit the air conveyors (Refitting the air filters).
Refit the tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Removing the airbox and throttle body

Remove control unit and the relevant support.
Remove the ABS control unit (Removing the ABS control unit).
Loosen the screws (A) and remove the plate (B) securing main wiring to airbox.
Loosen the screws (17) and remove the air pressure sensors (9) with support (19).
Release pipes (C) from air pressure sensors (9) and from tab (D), fitted on airbox.
Working on the right side of the vehicle, disconnect connector (E) of APS.
Working on the left side of the vehicle, disconnect connector (F) of TPS/ETV motor.
Loosen the clamp (6) retaining blow-by hose to airbox.
Loosen the clamp (21) retaining drain pipe to airbox.

Loosen the clamps (6) retaining airbox to intake manifolds and slide it out of its seat.
Working on both sides of throttle control cables (H) and (M), loosen nuts (L) and, by turning pulley (G) of
throttle body, remove the two throttle cables (H) and (M).
Removing the fuel injectors
Working on both sides of intake manifolds, disconnect the connectors (N) between main wiring and
injectors, loosen the retaining screws of fuel pipes (P) and remove the two injectors (3).
Disassembling airbox – throttle body
Undo the six screws (16).
Remove throttle body (4) from airbox (1) together with intake ducts (14).
Refitting the secondary air system
Note
Remove cloth from the secondary air system duct on head cover.
Warning
Do not invert the positions of the covers and components of the two valves of the secondary air system.
Refer to the reference notches present on the secondary air system valve cover and on head cover.
If disassembled, refit secondary air system valves (A) applying the same procedure for both of them.
Fit the spark arrestor (12).
Fit the reed valve (11).

Fit the secondary air system cover (10) on head cover, aiming it as shown, by aligning the references (B)
with those on head cover and references (C) with those on valve cover (10).
Tighten the two screws (9) to a torque of 6Nm (min. 5 Nm. - max. 7 Nm).
Fit airbox, horizontal head (7) and vertical head (6) hoses, securing them with the relevant clamps (4).
Note
Fit clamps with their ends facing inside.
Fit actuator (8) and connect hoses as indicated, tightening clamps (2).
Note
Fit clamps with their ends facing inside.
Connect the actuator connector (1).

Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank)
Refit the front half-fairings (Refitting the front half-fairing)
Removing the secondary air system
Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank).

Remove the right side fairings (Removing the side fairings).
Disconnect connector (1) from the actuator.

Slide out clamps (2) and pipes, and collect actuator (3).
Slide out clamp (4) positioned on the opposite side, and remove air pipes (6) from vertical head (7) and
from horizontal head.
If necessary, disassemble secondary air system valves (A) applying the same procedure for both of them:
loosen the two screws (9) and slide out cover (10), reed valve (11) and spark arrestor (12) in this order.
Note
block off the secondary air system duct on head cover with a clean cloth so as to avoid any impurities from
entering the duct.
Refitting the air filters
Apply universal sealant in the groove (D) of air conveyors (2) and (6).
Fit gasket (7) inside groove (D) ensuring that it is correctly positioned in its seat in order to avoid any
bends.
Remove the right-hand air conveyor (2).

Start screws (1) and screw (3) with washer (4).
Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10% and screw (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%.
Proceed in the same way to refit the left-hand intake duct (5), connect connector (C) of air temperature
sensor (7).
Ensure that clamps (10) securing hose (11) are positioned as indicated.
Refit the tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Removing the air filters

Working on the right side of the vehicle, loosen screws (3) securing intake duct (2) to airbox and screw (3)
securing it to radiator; collect washer (4).
Remove intake duct (2).
Proceed in the same way to remove the left-hand intake duct (6), disconnect connector (C) of air
temperature sensor (7).
Refitting the silencer
Position silencer protection (41) and fix it by starting screws (40).

Insert silencer (4) in the central exhaust pipe (26) and fix it to the vehicle by starting screw (1).
Hold nut (8) and tighten screw (1) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Position and tighten clip (38) to a torque of 18 Nm ±10%.
If removed, fit the bracket (49) on silencer (50) tightening screws (48) to a torque of 20 Nm ±10%.
Refitting the exhaust system
Fit the heat guard on manifold (10) by tightening nuts (9) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the vertical exhaust manifold (22) on the vertical cylinder head with the gasket (23).
Tighten retaining nuts (21) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
If previously removed, tighten the vertical lambda sensor (20) to the torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the horizontal exhaust manifold (24) on the horizontal cylinder head with the gasket (23).
Tighten retaining nuts (21) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
If previously removed, tighten the horizontal lambda sensor (20) to the torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Make sure that clips (15) are present on the upper exhaust pipe (19).
Fit aramid washers (12) on screws (11) with specified threadlocker.

Insert screws (11) in the heat guard (13) holes.
Fit two other washers (12) and spacers with collar (14) on screws (1).
Note
The two spacers must be positioned with the collar facing the heat guard, as shown.
Fit heat guard (13) by starting screws (11) and tighten screws (11) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%, having
care to centre washers (12) on collars (W) of spacers (14).
Insert the upper exhaust pipe (19) in the vertical exhaust pipe (22) and block it with spring (16).
Insert the central exhaust pipe (26) in the upper exhaust pipe (19) and in the horizontal flange (24) and
block them with springs (16).
If the exhaust valve motor has been previously removed, upon reassembly fit vibration damping pads (35)
in the relevant holes of the exhaust valve motor (34).
Position the exhaust valve motor (34), as shown in the figure, on cover (32), and bring vibration damping
pads (35) fully against stud-bolts (E).
Fix the exhaust valve motor (34) on cover (32) by starting screws (37) with washers (36) near the
previously fitted vibration damping pads (35).
Fit vibration damping pads (31) on cover (32) in the indicated positions. Insert spacers with collar (30) in
seals (31), as shown in the figure.
Fit the exhaust valve motor cable (M) by inserting nipple (F) in the suitable hole on pulley (G).
Note
The exhaust valve motor cable must be positioned above the exhaust valve motor wiring. Insert the taper
terminal in the relevant seat of the exhaust valve motor, having care to bring it fully home.
Note
Should it prove hard to bring the terminal fully home, we recommend smearing it with RUBBER
LUBRICANT.
Tie wiring (H) with a big self-locking tie (N) in the indicated area of cover (32).
If previously removed, position the exhaust valve motor unit (32) on the rear subframe RH plate, by
tightening screws (29) with washers (30) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Fit control cable (25) in plate (C). Insert nipple (B) in exhaust valve (D) and block it with snap ring (39).
Warning
Make sure that nipples on the cable ends are perfectly engaged in the exhaust valve and motor pulleys.
Check that the taper terminal is perfectly inserted (fully home) in the relevant seat of the exhaust valve
motor.
After assembly, the cable (25) on exhaust valve and the relevant motor is adjusted automatically by the
instrument panel software, that causes the valve to open fully at the first key-on, and then to go back to
rest position with the valve fully closed.
Refit the exhaust valve cover (27) by starting and tightening screws (28) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%,
starting with the front one.
Refit the silencer as described in paragraph “Refitting the silencer”, of this section.
If previously removed, insert plugs (17), copper washers (18), start plugs in the vertical (22) and
horizontal (24) head exhaust manifolds and tighten them to 25 Nm ± 10%.
If the silencer heat guard has been previously removed, check the presence of clips (43) on silencer (4).
Important
The fitting operations described below must be performed following a sequence 1 - 2 - 3.
Fit washers on the relevant screws.
Insert the screws in the heat guard holes. Fit three other washers and spacers with collar on the screws.
Note
The spacers must be positioned with the collar facing the heat guard, as shown.
Fit heat guard (41) and start screws (40). Tighten screws (40) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%, by respecting
the sequence 1 - 2 - 3. During this operation make sure to centre washers (12) on collars (J) of spacers
(42).
Check the presence of rubber element (46) on heat guard (45).

Fit washers (12) on screws (44) with specified threadlocker. Insert screws (44) in the rear heat guard (45)
holes.
Fit 2 other washers (12) and spacers with collar (47) on screws (44).
Note
The spacers must be positioned with the collar facing the heat guard, as shown.
Fit heat guard (45) and start screws (44).

Tighten screws (44) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% and make sure to centre washers (12) on collars (K) of
spacers (47).
Removing the exhaust system
Remove the silencer as described in paragraph “Removing the silencer”, of this section.
Unscrew the screws (28) and remove the exhaust valve cover (27).
Turn the pulley (A) of the exhaust valve to facilitate the control cable exit (25).
Release nipple (B) of cable (25) from the exhaust valve (D) and remove snap ring (39).
Release control cable (25) from plate (C).
Remove the two retaining springs (16) and the central exhaust pipe (26).
Remove retaining spring (16) and the upper exhaust pipe (19).
Loosen screws (11) and remove heat guard (13) from the upper exhaust pipe (19); collect spacers (12).
Loosen and remove the lambda sensor of the horizontal cylinder (20).
Loosen and remove the three retaining nuts (21) and remove the horizontal manifold (24) with the gasket
(23).
Loosen and remove the lambda sensor of the vertical cylinder (20).
Loosen and remove the three retaining nuts (21) and remove manifold (22) with the gasket (23).
Loosen nuts (9) and remove the heat guard from manifold (10).
Removing the silencer
Loosen clip (38) that secures silencer (4) to the complete exhaust system.
Hold nut (8), undo screw (1) and remove silencer (4) from the vehicle.
Loosen screws (40) and remove the silencer protection (41).

Refitting the Canister filter
If removed, refit rubber cover (10) on canister (13) using a rubber-specific lubricant.
Complete the assembly of cover (10) positioning tab (C) as indicated.
Note
The spring must be fitted on the hose side that will be inserted on the union.
Secure hose (11) with clamp (12).

Fit clamp (7) on hose (14).
Install hose (14) on the upper union of canister (13) and secure hose (14) with clamp (7).
Fit plate (8), positioning it as indicated and inserting - both on the right-hand side and on the left-hand one
- the side brackets (B) fully home in the slots of rubber cover (10).
Note
In case of problems when fitting the plate, it is recommended to apply rubber-specific lubricant on the side
brackets.
Position plate (8) with canister on tank and tighten screws (9) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10 %.

Removing the canister filter

Loosen screws (9) securing plate (8) to tank.
Slightly slide out plate (8) together with canister (13), remove clamps (3) and (12) and disconnect pipes
(7) and (14).
Release tabs (B) of plate (8) to remove canister (13).

Disconnect hose (11), removing clamp (12).
Canister filter system (USA versions only)
USA models are equipped with an additional system featuring a Canister filter that prevents fuel fumes from
being discharged into the atmosphere.
The breather hose (4) is connected to the Canister filter (1); when the fuel has been filtered, it is returned
through the hose (2) to the horizontal (A) and vertical (B) intake manifolds via the hoses (2A) and (2B).
Breather hose (C) and hose (5) vent to the ground.
Refitting the engine
Apply recommended grease and tighten screws (4) to the torque of 60 Nm ± 5%.
Tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 48 Nm ± 5%.
For the nut and screw fitting sequence refer to section "Refitting frame and side plates".
Refit the removed parts by performing the steps shown in the table and in the specific sections of the
manual in reverse order.
Connect the wiring connectors on the engine block (Routing of wiring on frame).
Refit the rear shock absorber support on the engine block (Refitting the rear suspension system).
Refit the front sprocket (Refitting the front sprocket).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the water expansion tank (Refitting the water tank).
Refit the cooling system hoses and unions on the engine block (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the oil cooler hoses on the engine block (Refitting the lubrication system).
Fill the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the battery support complete with electric components (Refitting the electric component support).
Refit the oil cooler (Refitting the lubrication system).
Refit the oil cooler fairings (Refitting the lug)
Refit the oil breather pipe, the blow-by pipe, the throttle body and the airbox (Refitting the airbox and throttle
body).
Connect the throttle control cable (Refitting the throttle control).
Refit the tank half-fairings (Refitting the tank fairings).
Removing the engine
In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle. Most
of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual. The following chart
illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and a reference to
the section where the removal procedure is described.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts listed in the
chart.

body).
Remove the oil cooler fairings (Removing the lug)
Remove the oil cooler (Removing the lubrication system).
Remove the battery and electric component support (Removing the electric component support).
Drain the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the oil cooler hoses from the engine block (Removing the lubrication system).
Remove the cooling system hoses and unions from the engine block (Removing cooling system hoses and
unions).
Remove the expansion tank (Removing the water tank).
Remove the front sprocket (Removing the front sprocket).
Remove the rear shock absorber support from the engine block (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Disconnect the wiring connectors on the engine block (Routing of wiring on frame).
Install a support beneath the engine to support it during removal from the frame.
Loosen nuts (1) on the frame RH side, on engine upper supporting screws (2) and (3).
Hold special screw (4) of swingarm shaft on the frame LH side and at the same time loosen special screw
(4) on the RH side.
Use tool no. 88713.1074 to completely loosen the swingarm shaft and collect washer (7) on the LH side.
In this way the swinging arm will be free from the engine retainer and can be left on the frame.
Remove upper support screws (2) and (3).
Loosen the complete engine block from the frame by lowering and pushing it forwards.
Reassembling the oil pump
Check that the spring (8) and key (6) are present on the pump.
Fit the pump drive gear (7) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove.
Insert by-pass valve (5), spring (4) in the pump and tighten plug (3) to a torque of 17 Nm (Min. 15 Nm -
Max. 19 Nm) by applying medium-strength threadlocker.
Disassembling the oil pump gear
Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (2).
Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.
Remove the plug (3) and extract the spring (4) and by-pass valve (5).
Check the condition of the above components.

Remove the circlip (6) and withdraw the pump drive gear (7).
Refitting the oil pump
If removed, apply specific threadlocker on the bush (5) and screw it in the crankcase half, observing the
height.
Position the reference bushes (6) and the O-rings (4) and (5) according to the casing lubrication channels.
Position the complete oil pump (3) on the casing, fit the relevant washers (A) and (B) and tighten screws
(1) to 26 Nm (Min. 23 Nm - Max. 29 Nm) and screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Check the gear clearance with the front sprocket by fixing a dial gauge (A), equipped with the appropriate
stylus, to the crankcase half.
Position the dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and set the gauge to zero in this position.
Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the
gear.
The clearance should be 0.10 mm.
Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover).

Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the oil pump
Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover).
Loosen and remove screws (1) and (2) that retain the complete pump and collect the relevant washers (A)
and (B).
Remove the oil pump assembly (3) and extract the O-rings (4) and (5) from the crankcase half together
with two centring bushes (6).
Inspecting the oil cooler
Visually inspect the cooler.

Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks.
Refitting the lubrication system
Note
Before fitting the hoses check the presence of O-rings and lubricate them with engine oil.
If nipples (9) have been removed from the cooler, fit a washer (10) on each nipple (9) and apply specified
threadlocker on the cooler side threads.
Note
Washers must be fitted on the side featuring nipples with smaller diameter and oriented with the sharp
edge facing the cooler.
Start nipples (9) on oil cooler (11) and tighten them to 23 Nm ± 10%.
Lubricate the nipple threads (9) with engine oil.
Attach the hose ends to the nipples (9) and finger-tighten the hose ring nuts (F) on the nipples.
Tighten the ring nuts (F) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5 %.
If the horizontal exhaust heat guard assembly has been removed, upon reassembly to join heat guard (12)
with the exhaust protection (13) insert screw (14) with one washer (15) in heat guard (12) and then the
other washer (15) with spacer (16) on the screw.
Note
The spacer must be positioned with the collar facing the heat guard.
Fit heat guard (12) on exhaust protection (13) by tightening screw (14) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Fit heat guard assembly (12) with protection (13) on the horizontal head with support (17) by tightening
screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Check that the radiator features vibration damping pads.

Fit oil cooler (11) by inserting it first on pins (C) and (D) of support bracket.
If it proves hard, apply rubber lubricant on pin (D).
Fit spacer (8) and screw (9) and start screw (4).
Position hoses (8) in the crankcase half.
Position plate (18).
Close hose clip (12).

If previously removed, position sensor (1) with washer on the radiator and tighten sensor (1) to a torque of
19 Nm ± 10%.
Connect sensor (1) to the main wiring.
Fill the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the oil cooler fairings (Refitting the lug)
Removing the lubrication system
Remove the oil cooler fairings (Removing the lug)

Drain the system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disconnect sensor (1) from main wiring harness.

Open hose clip (2).
Undo screw (3) and slide out plate (4).

Slide crankcase half hoses (5) and collect the relevant O-rings (A).
Undo and remove screw (6) with spacer (7).
Remove the radiator from pins (C) and (D).
Loosen nuts (G) of pipes (8) from nipples (9) and disconnect them from the cooler.
Loosen nipples (9) on the cooler and collect seals (10).
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions

body).
Loosen clips (1) securing the radiator/thermostat hose (2) and radiator/plug hose (3) to water radiators.
Loosen clips (4) and (5) securing breather pipe (6) to the radiator/plug hose (3) and the LH radiator.
Loosen clips (7) securing the thermostat unit – thermostat-cylinder head hose – thermostat-cylinder head
hose (10) to the heads.
Loosen clip (11) to release breather pipe (12) from the vertical head.
Loosen the clips (1) and (7) to disassemble the thermostat unit (8) - thermostat/cylinder head hose (9) -
thermostat/cylinder head hose (10) and radiator/thermostat hose (2).
Loosen clip (11) to release breather pipe (13) from the half-fairing.
Loosen the screws (14) and remove union (15).
Recover the O-ring located between the union and the vertical head.
Loosen clips (1) securing the pump/radiator hose (16) and radiator/radiator hose.
Important
Periodically check the connection unions for leaks. Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened due to dry
sleeves should be replaced.
Refitting the water tank
If support (8) has been previously removed, position hose clips (4) on bracket (8) as shown in the figure.
Block clips (4) by pressing pins (A) fully home, until pin surfaces (B) are flush with clips (4) surfaces (C).
Fit washers (12) on screws (10) and apply specified threadlocker on screws (10) thread.
Fit bracket (8) on the expansion tank (6) as shown in the figure, and tighten screws (10) to a torque of 5
Nm ± 10%.
Fit clip (11) on hose (2).

Insert hose (2) fully inside lower union (D) of expansion tank (6), so that hose reference (E) matches arrow
(F) on the expansion tank.
Note
If it proves hard to fit the hose in the union, it is recommended to lubricate the hoses with rubber lubricant.
Position clip (11) as shown and bring it in area (G) of hose (2).
Tighten clip (2).
Fit clip (9) on hose (7).

Insert hose (7) fully inside the upper union (H) of expansion tank (13), so that the hose straight section (I)
is parallel to bracket (14), as highlighted by axes (L) and (M).
Note
The hose side to be inserted in the union features a white marking.
Important
After the assembly operation, the hose must be against the internal surface of the hose clip, as shown in
the figure.
Note
If it proves hard to fit the hose in union (H), it is recommended to lubricate the hoses with rubber lubricant.
Block the hose (7) by means of the clip (99), aiming it as shown.
Fit spacer with collar (15) in rubber block (16) hole.

Fit rubber block (16) as shown in the figure and start screw (17).
Tighten the screw (17) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10 %.
Position tank (6) with hoses (2) and (7) and the support (8).
Fit clips (4) in the hoses and close them.
If sleeve (18) has been removed, fit clip (19) on it in the indicated position.
Fit union (3) on sleeve (18) and block it with clip (19).
Note
The union must be positioned so that the union groove matches sleeve tooth (A). The clip must be
positioned as indicated.
Fit the water circuit remote filler plug (20).

Position union (3) on the frame by tightening screw (21) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Insert hose (2) in union (3) with clip (1) and tighten clip (6) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Insert hose (2) in clip (A).
Refit the injectors on the intake manifolds and refit the supply system.
body).
Removing the water tank

body).
Loosen clip (1), open hose clip (A) and release hose (2) from the radiator.
Open clips (4) and release the hoses.

Loosen the screws (5).
Remove tank (6) with hoses (2) and (7) and the support.
Loosen clip (9) to remove hoses (2) and (7) from the tank.
Loosen screws (10) and remove supporting plate (8).
Replacing the electric fan
Loosen screws (9) and (14) securing the electric fan and remove electric fan (15) from the radiator.
Perform the same operation for the other radiator electric fan.
Upon reassembly, position water radiator fan (15) on its support (16), as shown in the figure, by matching
the fan three holes and the three threaded inserts (I) of support (16).
Position grit (G) on water radiator fan (15) as shown in the figure, by letting the fan cable come out of the
grit opening.
Assemble grit (G), fan (15) and its support (16).
Tighten screws (9) and (14) to a torque of ± 5 Nm 10%.
Fitting the radiator
The reassembly procedure is the same for both radiators.

Check the presence of clip nuts (31).
Position the RH radiator (4) on the frame and tighten screws (5) and (6) with spacers (7) to a torque of 10
Nm ± 10%.
Connect wiring (D) connections to the front turn indicators.
Connect the radiator electric fan wiring to the main wiring (C).
After fitting both radiators join the two internal air conveyors (1) and (2) by tightening screws (3) to a
torque of 4 Nm ±10%.
Fit supports (S) of front splash guard to air conveyors (1) and (2) by tightening screws (P) to a torque of 4
Nm ± 10%
Tighten the clips of the hose that connects the two radiators and of the hose that connects the RH radiator
to the union (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions).

Refit the injectors on the intake manifolds and refit the supply system.
body).
Reassembling the water radiator unit
Fit clips (31), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit bracket (32) onto cover (33), and secure it in place by tightening screw (34).
Fit turn indicator (35) on water radiator (33) external cover, starting screw (36).
Carefully position the turn indicator by fitting the front profile below tab (37).
Tighten the two screws (36) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Lay turn indicator cable (38) and insert it between the relevant pins (39).
Lock cable (38) fitting retainer (40).
Fit vibration damping pads (21) and (22) in the indicated positions of the RH water radiator (4).
Insert the spacers with collar (23) on the upper vibration damping pads (22).
Fix the RH water radiator (4) by starting screws (11).
Position the RH fan unit (15) on the RH water radiator (4) so that holes of unit (15) matches poppets (L) on
radiator (4).
Fit one rubber block (U) in the relevant internal cover of the RH water radiator (1) as shown in the figure.
Note
For a correct installation of the rubber block, the pin must completely come out of the insertion opposite
side.
Position the internal cover (1) as indicated, by engaging teeth (N) and (O) of the external cover of the RH
water radiator (13) in slots (Q) and (R) of internal cover (1).
Note
During the internal cover positioning, pay attention to insert the RH fan cable inside its opening, as
indicated.
Insert the RH fan cable (X) in area (V) of the internal cover of RH water radiator (1).
Insert the small self-locking tie (J) in hole (W) of cover (1) and fix cable (X) using the same tie.
Start the screw with low collar (24), the screws with medium collar (9) and the screw with high collar (21)
in the indicated positions.
Tighten the previously fitted screws (24), (9), (8) and (11) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Start the screw (12) with washer (25) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten the screw (10).
On the RH radiator check the presence of the four clips (26) on the internal cover (1), whereas on the LH
radiator there are only two clips (26), the indicated ones.
Only on the RH radiator check the presence of plug (27) inserted from the internal side of the internal cover
(1).
Fit spacer with collar (28) in the suitable hole of the RH water radiator (4).
Insert, on the opposite side, the pin threaded insert (29) in spacer with collar (28) and fix it using retainer
(30) as shown in the figure.
Disassembling the water radiator unit
The procedure is the same for both radiators.

Loosen screws (9), (8) and (10) to remove air conveyor (1) from RH radiator (4).
Loosen screws (11) and (12) to remove half-fairing (13) from the radiator.
Inspecting the water radiator
Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks.

Check also that the air flow through the radiator fins are not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud, etc.
Important
Excessive coolant temperature can be caused by a partial obstruction of the radiator fins.
Carefully check the condition of the radiator fins.

Removing the water radiators

body).
Loosen screws (P) securing front splash guard supports (S) to air conveyors (1) and (2).
Loosen screws (3) to separate the two internal air conveyors (1) and (2).
Disconnect the main wiring connections (C) from both electric fans.
Disconnect wiring (D) connections from the front turn indicators.
Loosen screws (5) and (6) with spacer (7) retaining the water radiator to the frame.
Remove the RH radiator (4) from the frame.
Follow the same procedure for the LH radiator.
Refitting the water pump
Clean the seat in the cover, any parts you intend to reuse, and the impeller shaft. Lubricate with engine oil
and refit as follows.
Use drift (C) no. 88713.0869 to fit the new mechanic seal (9) on the impeller shaft.
Working on cover internal side, insert the inner spacer (15) with the sharp edge (D) outwards. Using a
suitable drift working on the outer ring, drive bearing (13) - with the shielded side (E) facing the cover -
fully home on the spacer (15).
Fit the other bearing (12), driving it fully home on bearing (13).
Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (10).
Fit the two screws (10) with the washers (11), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Turn the cover upside down and use drift (F) no. 88713.0870 to install counter-washer (14) fully home on
spacer (15).
Counter-washer (14) must be positioned so that the white side is facing upwards.
Fit the impeller shaft (6) with the previously installed mechanical seal (9).
Insert the spacer (8), aimed as shown in the figure, and lock in place with the snap ring (7).
Turn the impeller (6) and make sure that it can rotate freely, without excessive resistance.
Clean the mating surface thoroughly on the pump cover and on the generator cover.
Apply on water pump cover (3) a bead of sealing compound as shown in the figure.
Fit bushes (5) and position the cover (3) on the generator cover.
Start screws (1).
Start the screw (2) with the relevant washer and tighten the screws to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm -
Max. 14.5 Nm), respecting the sequence shown in the figure.
After tightening, remove any excess of threadlocker.
Fit the generator cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
Fit the cooling system hoses on the water pump cover (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Removing the water pump

Remove the cooling system hoses from the water pump cover (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and cartridge).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Loosen and remove screws (1), (2) and (16) with the relevant washer securing the water pump cover (3)
to the generator cover (4).
Remove the water pump cover (3) and collect bushing (5).
Clean the pump housing from any coolant scale. Check the bearing wear by turning the impeller shaft (6);
in case of excessive clearance, it is necessary to replace them as follows.
Remove the snap ring (7) from the impeller shaft, and the washer (8) underneath.
Slide off the impeller (6) with the sealing ring (9) from the outside.
Collect the ceramic washer and the seal ring union (14).
Undo and remove the screws (10) with the washer (11).
Working from the impeller side, use a suitable drift to press on the inner ring of end bearing (12) until it
can be extracted from the cover.
Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (13).
Remove the inner spacer (15).
Check the condition of the mechanical seal components (9) and of the counter-washer (14): there should
be no signs of deformation, cracking, or excessive wear. In case of damage, both components must be
replaced.
Checking the engine timing

body).
Remove the cylinder head cover (Removing the camshafts).
Set the engine to the condition described for the operation under "Checking and adjusting the valve clearance",
indicated before. Install tool no. 88713.2087 (A) in the spark plug bore to determine the piston TDC, the
gauges (B) on tool no. 88765.1518 and the timing check tool (degree wheel (C) no. 88713.0123 with
graduated disk).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed
by the reading on gauge (A), set the gauges (B) to zero.
Tension the belts according to the value specified in paragraph "Checking and adjusting timing belt tension".
Turn the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until the gauge dial (B), on the exhaust side, shows a lift of
1 mm. Check that the value of the angular displacement read on the degree wheel (C) is the specified one
(Timing system/valves).
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side. Check the
angular value on the degree wheel. Continue to rotate until you obtain an intake valve lift of 1 mm on the
gauge (B), during closure of the valve for the compression stroke. Check the angular value with the
prescribed one (Timing system/valves). Continue to rotate the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until you
obtain a lift of 1 mm of the exhaust valve, when opening or closing the valve.
Check the angular displacement value against the specified value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
A tolerance of ±3° is allowed in the values detected with the described procedure compared to the specified
ones (Timing system/valves).
Remove the installed tools to check timing. Then tension the belts to the prescribed operation value.
In case of values different from the described ones (Timing system/valves), loosen the fixing screws (D) of
the timing belt rollers and correct the value detected by turning the ring nut of the timing shaft with the
supplied wrench (E) no. 88713.1806.
Then block the three screws (D) retaining the timing belt roller to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11
Nm) and mark the new position on the components.
To reassemble the previously removed components follow the removal reverse procedure.
Checking valve lift
Set the engine to the condition described for the operation under "Checking and adjusting the valve clearance",
indicated before.
Position tool (G) no. 88765.1518 on the cylinder head: the part with mark “A” on the intake side and that
with mark “S” on the exhaust side.
Seat the plate (E) and tighten the screws (F).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of
suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock the dial gauge into the support seat with mark "A" and position fork probe against the face of the
closing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check on the dial gauge that the measured value corresponds to the prescribed one (Timing system/valves).
Repeat the same operation for the exhaust valves, using the dial gauge in support seat (H) 88765.1518
with mark "S".
Refit the components by carrying out the same operations indicated in paragraph "Checking and adjusting the
valve clearance", previously described.
Refit the components removed in the procedure.
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance

body).
Note
Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC upon combustion stage: in this condition, all valves
are closed and the camshafts come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate; check the valve clearance
on the cylinder head you are working on.
Checking the opening clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (A) and the lowest point of the
camshaft lobe (B), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring. The value must be within the
prescribed ones (Timing system/valves). If not, remove the opening shim (1), as described in paragraph
"Removing the valves", and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.80 to 3.45 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the
shim.
Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm (C) sliding shoe and the highest
point of the camshaft lobe (D). The value must be within the prescribed ones (Timing system/valves). If
not, remove the closing shim (2), as described in paragraph "Removing the valves", and replace it with one
of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Note
Closing rocker arm shims measuring 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the
shim.
Reassembling the timing pulleys
Fit the pulley (3) on the flange (4), aligning the timing pulley mark (D) with the flange timing mark (E).
Install the washer (2) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (F) with the pulley and flange timing
marks.
Insert the three screws (1) in the threaded holes (G) of the flange.
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
To fit the snap ring (7) in the timing layshaft seat, use the tool no. 88713.2834.
Install the inner spacer (6) on the timing layshaft, taking care to match the key notch.
Fit the first key (4) on the timing layshaft.
Locate the inner pulley (3).
Refit the second key (4) and the washer (5).

Locate the outer pulley (3) and the spacer (2).
Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the shaft.
Fit the ring nut (1).
Important
To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-
locking ring nuts on all the timing belt rollers.
Block with tool (A) no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the belt rollers and tighten to 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm -
Max. 78 Nm) the self-locking ring nut using the insert supplied with the wrench and a torque wrench.
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Block with tool no. 88713.1805 the rotation of the driving belt rollers on the crankcase.
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driving pulleys against
rotation using tool (A) no. 88713.2011 mounted on the generator cover.
Loosen the ring nut (1) using the socket supplied with the tool.
Remove the ring nut (1), the spacer (2) and the outer pulley (3).
Remove the first key (4) from the timing layshaft.
Remove the spacer (5) and the inner pulley (3).
Remove the inner spacer (6) and second key (4) on the timing layshaft.
It is now possible to remove the snap ring (7) on the timing layshaft.
Removing the tensioner pins
Use tool (A) no. 88713.1821 to remove tensioner pins (1) from the heads.
Refitting the timing outer covers
Fit the horizontal cylinder outer cover (3) starting the screws (4).
Repeat the same procedure for the vertical cylinder outer covers (1) and (3).
Tighten screws (1) of the plastic covers to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the
sequence indicated in the figure.
Important
For the carbon covers, tighten the screws to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max. 6.5 Nm).
Note
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously
removed parts.
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).

Refitting the timing belts
Rotate the pulleys on the timing layshaft until the timing mark on the outer pulley is aligned with the mark
on the clutch cover.
In this condition, the horizontal cylinder piston will be at top dead centre.
Install tool (A) no. 88713.2011 in the generator seat to prevent the rotation of the crankshaft and block it
with the suitable pin. Then tighten screw M8 of the tool to 20 Nm.
To achieve correct timing, the screws (1) securing the pulleys to the hubs must be loose and positioned in
the centre of their slots.
First time the vertical head.

Use tool (B) no. 88765.1623 to insert pins (C) in seats (D) of the camshafts.
Use tool (B) no. 88765.1623 with writing “UP” and the arrow pointing to the head cover.
First position pins (C) of tool (B) no. 88765.1623 in the intake side belt roller using tool (B) wrench no.
88765.1623.
Position pins (C) of tool (B) no. 88765.1623 in the exhaust side belt roller.
Manually screw all the way in the knobs of tool (B) no. 88765.1623.
Use a torque screwdriver (E) to tighten the knob nuts of tool (B) no. 88765.1623 to a torque of 2 Nm ±
10%.
Fit the vertical piston-cylinder assy timing belt around the cylinder head belt rollers and pass it behind the
idler pulley.
Note
If the used belts are to be refitted, position them in their original direction of rotation and on their original
cylinder.
Fit the mobile tensioner (2) and the washer (3) on the cylinder head pin.
Apply recommended grease on mobile tensioner pin threads, and on nut (8) mating surface.
Start the nut (4).
Check the tensioning value and adjust the vertical head belt (5) and horizontal head belt (6), if necessary.
Check the tensioning values on belt (5) section and belt (6) section (L).
After reaching the required tension make sure that nut (4) retaining the mobile tensioner (2) is tightened to
25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm) and vertical head screws (1) to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Remove tool (B) no. 88765.1623 that blocks the vertical head camshafts.
Time the horizontal head.
Use tool (B) no. 88765.1623 to insert pins (C) in seats (D) of the camshafts.
Position tool (B) no. 88765.1623 with writing “UP” and the arrow pointing to the head cover.
Manually position the pins of tool (B) no. 88765.1623 in seats (G) of the exhaust side belt roller by hand.
Manually screw all the way in the knobs of tool (B) no. 88765.1623.
Use a torque screwdriver (E) to tighten the knob nuts of tool (B) no. 88765.1623 to a torque of 2 Nm
±10%.
Fit the horizontal piston-cylinder assy timing belt around the cylinder head belt rollers and pass it behind
the idler pulley.
Note
If the used belts are to be refitted, position them in their original direction of rotation and on their original
cylinder.
Fit the mobile tensioner (2) and the washer (3) on the cylinder head pin.
Apply recommended grease on mobile tensioner pin threads, and on nut (4) mating surface.
Start the nut (4).
Check the tensioning value and adjust the horizontal head belt, if necessary.
After reaching the required tension make sure that nut (4) retaining the mobile tensioner (2) is tightened to
25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm) and horizontal head screws (1) to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Remove the horizontal head camshaft blocking tool (B) no. 88765.1623 .
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Check that the seat (A) on the end of the camshafts is in good condition and without burrs.
Fit a key (B) in the keyway of each camshaft.

Fit the pulley (2) on the camshaft, inserting the key in the in the pulley slot (C).
Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the camshaft.
Repeat the procedure on the other camshaft.
Insert tool (D) no. 88713.1806 in the belt rollers to prevent them from rotating.
Apply the recommended grease to the mating face of the ring nut (1).
Fit the ring nut (1).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.
Use the bush supplied with tool no. 88713.1806, and a torque wrench to tighten ring nuts (1) to 71 Nm
(Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm).
Insert the fixed tensioners (5) with relevant bearing and washers (4), in the head pins and tighten nuts (3)
to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm).
Undo the locking screws (6) of the pulleys, by turning them counter clockwise by 90° ± 5°.
Check that the pulleys have no end float and can rotate freely at all points along the full length of the slots.
Refitting the tensioner pins
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the pin thread.

Insert the tensioner pins (1) on the heads and tighten them with tool (A) no. 88713.1821.
Tighten the tensioner pins to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm - Max. 55 Nm).
1 Disassembling the camshaft pulleys
Undo and remove the screws (1).

Slide off the washer (2).
Withdraw the camshaft pulley (3) from the spacer flange (4).
Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Fit tool (A) part no. 88713.1806 in the pulleys to lock their rotation and use the supplied bush to loosen
the fixing ring nuts (21) of the pulleys.
Important
Upon reassembly, always use new ring nuts.
Remove the ring nuts (1) and the pulleys (2) from the camshafts.
Loosen the nut (3) and remove the washer (4) and the fixed tensioner pulley (5).
Repeat the same procedure to remove the other tensioner.
Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Loosen the nut (1) and remove the washer (2) and the mobile tensioner (3) from the pin (4) on the
cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (5) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the piston-
cylinder assy they belong to.
Repeat the procedure for the other piston-cylinder assy.

Removing the timing belt covers
Note
To work with the engine installed on the frame, first proceed as follows:

body).
Remove the water radiators (Removing the water radiators).
Note
Remove also any parts which may impede the procedure.
Undo the fixing screws (1) of the external covers (2) and (3) and remove them from the vertical piston-
cylinder assy.
Undo the fixing screws (1) of the external cover (4) and remove it from the horizontal piston-cylinder assy.
Refitting the intake manifold and water union
Apply the specified threadlocker to union (3), start it with gasket (4) and tighten it to a torque of 2.5 Nm
(Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm).
Fit hose (D) and tighten clip (C) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
After checking that the mating surfaces on cylinder head and manifold are perfectly flat and clean, install
intake manifold (1) on cylinder head.
Block the retaining screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) in a crossed-pattern
sequence (1-2-3-4).
Removing the intake manifold and water union
Loosen clip (A) and remove hose (B).
Remove manifolds (1) by loosening screws (2).
Loosen clip (C) and remove hose (D). Loosen union (3) and collect gasket (4).
1 Check of the camshafts and supports
Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out on the areas indicated using two
dial gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm.
Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear. If any of the above defects are found,
the camshaft should be replaced.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.
Refitting the camshafts
If the stud bolts (15) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud
bolts (15), i.e. the side that is to be screwed into the cylinder head. Tighten stud bolts (15) to a torque of
10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Check that the camshafts (marked “VA” and “VS” for the vertical head and “OS” and “OA” for the horizontal
head) are clean and in good condition. If the camshafts are not new, use emery cloth to remove signs of
wear on the cam and support surfaces, working on a flat surface.
Use specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus) both on the cylinder head and on supports (9) and (10), to
lubricate the seats of the camshafts (see green areas).
Fill tanks (A) with specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus).
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound) at the four points (highlighted in red) of the support
surface (9) shown in red in the figure. Clean off any excess of sealant.
Apply sealant only on the timing side support (9) and not on support (10).
Install the camshafts (12) and (13) in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
Check that the centring dowels (11) are present.
Fit the supports (9) and (10) so that they are perfectly seated on the cylinder head, checking that the
number stamped in zone (B) of the cylinder head is the same as the number stamped in the support zone
(C).
Important
The support must be installed on the timing side.
Bed down the supports.

Apply engine oil to the thread and underhead of screws (8).
Start screws (8).
Pre-tighten screws (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Pre-tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Then tighten screws to a torque of 22.5 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 25 Nm).
Tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Remove any excess of sealant from between the cylinder head and the cap.
Turn the camshafts by hand to check that they rotate freely.
Note
The screw in position 1 must always be on the intake and timing system side.
Check valve lift as explained (Checking valve lift).
Sealing rings
Lubricate the sealing rings (14) with denatured alcohol.

Install driving tool (C) no. 88713.2861 on the camshaft and start the seal ring on the cylinder head with
the side featuring a spring.
Important
Always fit new sealing rings upon reassembly.
Use the drift provided with the tool and a mallet to seat the sealing rings.
When correctly installed, the sealing ring should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head.
Cylinder head cover
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound) at the four points highlighted in red of the cylinder head
cover (5) as shown.
Fit the gaskets (6) and (7) on the cylinder head cover (5), as shown in the figure.
Apply a strip of about 2 mm (MAX. about 4 mm) of specified sealant (Three Bond 1215 sealing compound)
in the two areas of the cylinder head surface, observing the heights and positions indicated in figure.
Cylinder head cover identification: the vertical head cover (5) has a tooth (A) on the left-hand side
(exhaust side), whereas cover (9) has a tooth (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).
Insert centring pin (11).

Locate cover (5) on the cylinder head, aligning it with the four fixing holes.
Start screws (3) with O-rings (4).
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), respecting the indicated sequence.
Remove excessive sealant from the area of application.

Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
If dowel (10) has been removed, upon refitting, apply specified threadlocker and tighten it to 10 Nm (Min.
9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Install and tighten the spark plug with a suitable wrench.
Connect the secondary piping and position the clip.

Reassemble the removed components in the removal reverse order.
Removing the camshafts
Remove the tank fairing (Removing the tank fairings).

Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
The described operations apply to both head covers.
Remove spark plug with a suitable wrench.
Undo and remove the screws (3) and the O-rings (4) from the cylinder head covers.
Remove the cylinder head cover (5).
Remove the gaskets (6) and (7).
Removing the camshafts.
Undo the screws (8) securing the camshaft supports. Withdraw the camshaft supports (9) and (10) straight
out from the cylinder head, taking care not to damage the machined faces and centring dowels (11).
Remove the exhaust side camshafts (12) and (13) and slide out sealing rings (14) positioned at their ends.
If necessary, unscrew the stud bolts (15) from the cylinder heads.
Reassembling the cylinder head
The exhaust side can be identified by the three threaded holes on the flange.
The intake side can be identified by the presence of four threaded holes on the flange.
All the figures in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head.
Valve guide sealing rings
Position the cylinder head on the appropriate support (A) no. 88713.2103.
Use engine oil to lubricate the valve guide sealing rings (1) and insert them from the spring side onto tool
(A) no. 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a hammer to tap the sealing rings (1) home into the
valve guides.
1 Overhauling the cylinder head components
Cylinder heads
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage.
Check that the cylinder mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If this is
not the case, spread diamond lapping paste (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the
cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat surface is obtained.
Valve seats
Visually inspect the valve seats: there must be no pitting or cracks.
Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves
and check the seal.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03
and 0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Proceed as follows.
Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head housings.
Check the diameter of head housings and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit
of 0.04 to 0.10 mm.
Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Drive the seats perfectly square into the head housings using the appropriate valve guide seat installers
88713.2846 and 88713.2847.
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions: CA = Ø 41.6 ± 0.025
mm. CS = Ø 33.6 ± 0.025 mm. S = 1.2 mm. D = 0.2 to 0.4 mm.
Important
Do not use any lapping compound after final grinding.
It is advisable to lap the radius between the intake valve seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G =
after).
Valve guides
Check the internal surface of the valve guides: there should be no signs of deformation or cracking.
Thoroughly check the dimensions of the valve guide. Measure the inside diameter with a suitable gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.
The clearance upon fitting must be: maximum detected value - minimum detected value = 0.03÷0.045
mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the valve stem clearance is outside
the tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Valve guides as spare parts are available with outside diameter oversized by 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:
- heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C;

- remove the original valve guides using tool no. 88713.2842;
- allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats;
- choose suitable valve guides to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head of 0.022 to 0.051 mm;
- heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guides in dry ice;
- lubricate the seats in the cylinder head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools
and with reference to the dimensions given in the figure;
A= 22.4±0.15 mm
B= 28.45±0.15 mm
Hone the mating surface with a reamer.
Checking the valve
Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks.

Measure the diameter of the valve stem at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a “V” reference and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Service limit: 0.053 mm.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place the valve on a "V" reference block, set a dial gauge perpendicular
to head and measure concentricity of valve face at 45°.
- nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm;

- service limit: 0.03 mm.
Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and
seat is 1.4 to 1.6 mm (1.05 to 1.35 mm when new). Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater
than the above limit.
Checking the valve seal
After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between valve face and seat: if the seat contact
area (S) on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.
Checking the rocker arms
Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.

Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Clearance upon fitting: 0.025÷0.049 mm
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Opening and closing shims - Springs
Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve opening and closing shims (C): there must be no
signs of wear.
Check the conditions of the return springs (D) of the closing rocker arms: no cracks, deformations or failure
must be present.
Removing the valves
Remove the complete head from the engine (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the timing pulleys (Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Disconnect the spark plug caps.
Remove the cylinder head covers, the camshaft supports and the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
Raise rocker arm (1) and remove the opening shim (2) from the valves with a pair of pliers.
Push down the closing rocker arms (3) and (4) and the closing shim (6).
Remove the split rings (5) from the valves with a magnetic screwdriver. Extract the closing shims (6) from
the valve using a pair of pliers.
Withdraw the valves (7) and (8) from underhead of the cylinder head.
Refitting valves, closing shims and split rings
Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B).
Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (7) and the two exhaust valve stems (8) with engine oil.
Fit the valves in their seats on cylinder head, fully home.
Hold the closing rocker arm (3) pushed downwards and fit the closing shim (6) on the valve stem up to
reach the rocker arm. If using the old cylinder head, start by refitting the original shim.
Insert the new split rings (5) in the valve groove (T) and release the rocker arm to correctly position shim
(6). Turn the closing rocker arm (3), and compress the spring as much as possible while holding valve,
shim and split rings in the valve closed position. Release the rocker arm with a quick movement, so that the
split rings seat in the shim.
Repeat the procedure with the opposite valve and check that the top of the valve stem is aligned with the
surface of the shim (6); if it is not the case, repeat the split ring installation procedure.
Install the closing shims on the intake valves (7) using the method described above for the exhaust valves.
Refit the camshafts (Refitting the camshafts) to check the valve clearance when closed (Checking and
adjusting the valve clearance).
Refitting the cylinder head assemblies
Warning
To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed,
cylinder and piston must be removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and
restore the worn gaskets and O-rings and apply again sealing compound.
Before fitting the head, check that the gasket (E) is fitted on the mating surface between head and cylinder.
When fitting the gasket, side (E) with the stamped part no. must be in contact with the cylinder head.
Lower the cylinder head carefully over the stud bolts. Take care not to damage the threads.
Fit the special washers (2) and polygonal nuts (1) onto the cylinder head stud bolts.
Screw the polygonal nuts (1) on the stud bolts following a cross pattern using tool no. 88713.2676
together with a torque wrench.
Apply a snug torque of 20 Nm to nuts (1), a pre-tightening to a torque of 40 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 48
Nm) and a tightening to a torque of 60 Nm (Min. 57 Nm - Max. 63 Nm).
Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the intake manifolds (Refitting the intake manifold and water union).
Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Removing the cylinder heads
Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine).

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the belts and their external covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Refit the intake manifolds (Removing the intake manifold and water union).
Use tool part no. 88713.2676, undo the nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts.
Remove the polygonal nuts (1) and special washers (2).
Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
1 Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at 50 mm from the
top face and determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in
Sect. Cylinder/piston. Repeat measurement of the diameter at three heights A (10 mm from the upper
surface), B (50 mm from the upper surface) and C (100 mm from the upper surface) and in two directions
at 90° between them; check that the measurements of taper and ovality fall within the range specified in
Sect. Cylinder/piston.
In the event of damage or excessive wear the cylinder must be replaced as it has a silicon carbide coating
(which provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore
cannot be ground. The cylinders are marked with letters (stamped between the two oil return ways)
indicating their size class.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
Overhauling the piston
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring,
cracks, or other damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt and in perpendicular
direction to the gudgeon pin axis.
The pistons must always be replaced as a pair.
Checking the piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked with a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which
they belong.
Always match piston with cylinder from the same size class.
For the correct values refer to chapter "Cylinder/piston".
Overhauling the gudgeon pins
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The
well-lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
For the coupling clearance values with the piston and the connecting rod, see chapter "Cylinder/Piston".
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Overhauling the piston rings
The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Spare pistons are supplied complete with
piston rings and gudgeon pin.
Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top ring (1st ring "S") and 0.10 mm for the others
(2nd ring "T" and oil scraper ring "R").
The piston rings must always be fitted with markings (M) facing upwards.
First ring (S).
Second ring (T).

Oil scraper ring (R).
Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance
Insert the piston ring 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder; make sure that the ring is positioned
perfectly square to the cylinder axis by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top
surface of the ring is 50 mm from the cylinder top face.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):

Distance (A) mm Wear limit

Upper piston ring 0.2 to 0.4 0.8

Intermediate piston ring 0.3 to 0.5 0.8

Oil scraper ring 0.2 to 0.7 1.0
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection (see chapter
“Overhauling the cylinder/piston components”).
Note
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the
piston ring gaps at 120° from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder
with engine oil). Position the cylinder with the smallest valve recess is on the side of the exhaust.
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase half and the cylinders.
Check that the cylinder centring dowels (B) are fitted on the crankcase.
Apply sealant to the gasket (11) then locate the gasket on the crankcase.
Using cap no. 88713.1920, fit the O-rings (A) on each stud bolt and guide them into their seats in the
crankcase.
Bring the connecting rod small end close to TDC and slide the cylinder-piston assembly (12-4) onto the
crankcase stud bolts.
Push the connecting rod small end into the piston close to the gudgeon pin (10) hole. Lubricate and insert
the gudgeon pin.
The gudgeon pin (9) must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (12).
Close the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the snap
ring (10) as shown in the figure.
Important
Always fit new circlips upon reassembly.
Push the cylinder (8) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Refit the bushes (7).
Fit the cylinder head gasket (6) over the stud bolts. The side marked with the part number must be facing
the cylinder head.
Note
The shape of the gasket prevents incorrect fitting, provided that the fluid flow holes are aligned with those
on the cylinder.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder and refit the cylinder heads (Refitting the cylinder head
assemblies).
In case they have been removed, apply prescribed threadlocker to unions (5) and tighten them to a torque
of 25 Nm (Min. 23 Nm - Max. 27 Nm).
Fit hoses (2) and (3), and tighten the clips (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm).
Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Removing the cylinder/piston assembly

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Loosen the clips (1) and remove the hoses (2) and (3) from the cylinders (4) and from the generator cover.
If damaged, unscrew the unions (5).

Note
The following procedure is described with the engine removed from the frame and the cylinder head
removed from the engine.
Remove the cylinder head gasket (6) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Remove the bushes (7).

Use tool (B) part no. 88765.1657 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder near the TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder (8) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly
using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the cylinder until you can
access the gudgeon pin (9).
Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove
the piston together with the barrel as described below.
Stuff the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling inside.
Remove the snap ring (10) from the gudgeon pin (9) on the clutch side.
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder-piston assembly clear of the crankcase stud bolts. If work is to be carried out on the
piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
Remove from the cylinder head stud bolts the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase between the
cylinder and the gasket (11).
To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for
removal of the horizontal cylinder.
Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
Checking and overhauling the components
Clearance between the clutch housing and friction plates
Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
Clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing.
Overhauling the clutch plates
The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates; it should not be less than 2.6 mm.
Important
The total thickness of the plates pack must not be less than 46.1 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max. flatness error: 0.2 mm.
Overhauling the pressure plate
Check bearing (7) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surface of the last friction plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as
described previously for the cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components).
Check the condition of the spring guide seats (G) of pusher plate (4) and of snap rings (5).
Overhauling the pusher plate springs
Measure the length “L” of each spring (3).

Minimum length: 41 mm.
Replace any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.
Description of the clutch assembly
The clutch is disengaged by a transmission unit consisting of a thrust piston (C) accommodated inside a
support mounted to the generator cover. This piston (C) pushes a pushrod (B), which runs through gearbox
primary shaft and operates the pressure plate (1) located on top of the clutch plate pack (2).
Drive is transmitted from the crankshaft to the gearbox primary shaft by a gear integrated with the clutch
housing/primary drive gear pair (A).
Accommodated in the clutch housing is a set of driving and driven plate pack (2). When the clutch is
operated, the driven plates push away a drum (3) which is splined onto the gearbox primary shaft.
Before working on the internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly. Then deal with the
problem in a systematic manner.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunction.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;

- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:
- no backlash of the control lever;

- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:
- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;

- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive housing between friction plate tabs and the clutch housing;
- worn gear/clutch housing bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Refitting the clutch
Position the spacer (12).
Fit the flat ring (14) and the Belleville washer (13) on the clutch drum (8), so that the convex side faces
the clutch drum.
Locate the Belleville washer (10).

Ft the clutch plates (11) in the following order:
on drum (3):
- a set of ten driving plates (L) alternately to nine driven plates (I) 2 mm thick;
on the pusher plate (4):
- one driven plate (H) 2 mm thick;

- one driving plate (L).
Apply the prescribed grease to the thread of the gearbox primary shaft and the mating surface of nut (9),
and fit it over Belleville washer (10).
Block the clutch drum using tool part no. 88713.3408 and tighten the retaining nut (9) to a torque of 190
Nm (Min. 180 Nm - Max. 200 Nm).
Insert the control pin (6) in the bearing (7) and the latter in the gearbox primary shaft.
Place the pusher plate (4) with the two plates on the centring tool (A) part no. 88713.3352.
Fit the pressure plate (4).
Insert a spring (3) in each recess.

Position ring (2).
Lubricate the thread of the screws (1) with oil.
Start screws (1).

Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the belly fairing (Refitting the belly fairing).
Removing the clutch
Remove the belly fairing (Removing the belly fairing).

Note
Undo the fixing screws (1) and remove the ring (2) and the springs (3) from the pusher plate (4).
Slide out pusher plate (4) taking care not to damage snap rings (5).
Remove the clutch control pin (6) and bearing (7).
Block clutch drum (8) using the tool part no. 88713.3408 and loosen retaining nut (9).
Remove Belleville washer (10), slide out clutch drum (8) and remove clutch plates (11) from the clutch
housing.
When removing the plates (11), keep them paired in the assembly order and set them aside tied together,
if necessary.
Slide out the spacer (12).
Withdraw the Belleville washer (13) and flat ring (14) from the clutch drum (8).
Reassembling the clutch cover
Fit the plug (1) and the gasket (2).

Fit the plug (3) and the gasket (4).
If the bush has been replaced, fully seat the new bush (11) in the slot in the cover using a suitable drift and
a press.
If the sealing ring (10) needs to be replaced, fit the new seal into the crankcase cover, positioning it so that
the side without a spring is facing the circlip (8).
Before fitting, check that the edges of the circlip groove show no sign of burrs which might otherwise
damage the sealing ring.
Then fit the shim (9) and the circlip (8).
In order for the sealing ring (10) to function correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the
circlip (8) to rotate.
Position the soundproofing panel (7) inside the clutch cover, centring it with the pin (D) as shown in the
figure. Position the inner cover (6) on the panel (7), centring it with the pin (D). Apply the recommended
threadlocker to the screw (5).
Tighten the retaining screw (5) to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 26 Nm).
Disassembling the clutch cover
Remove the plug (1) and the relevant O-ring (2) from the cover, the plug (3) and its seal (4).
Undo the fixing screw (5) of the inner cover (6).

Remove the inner cover (6) and the soundproofing panel (7).
Remove the circlip (8) and withdraw the shim (9) and the sealing ring (10).
The drilled bush (11) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit. Remove it using a suitable puller.
Visually inspect the sealing ring (10) and replace it if necessary.
Refitting the clutch cover
Clean and degrease mating surfaces on cover and crankcase half, and ensure that centring bush (5) and the
O-ring (6), located in correspondence with the oil way, are installed on the crankcase.
Apply an even, regular bead of DUCATI sealing compound (A) on the mating surface of the crankcase half
and around all holes.
Fit the complete cover (1) to the crankcase halves and start the retaining screws.
Apply the specified threadlocker to screws (2), (3) and (4).
Tighten the screws (2), (3) and (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) in a crossed-pattern
sequence.
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the clutch cover
Loosen the fastening screws (2), (3) and (4) on the clutch cover (1).
Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half.
Remove the clutch cover (1) paying attention to the centring bush (5).
Check the condition of the centring bush (5) and replace if deformed.
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear.
Position spacer (D) on the crankshaft.
Fit the driving gear (B) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (4) and ring nut (3).
If fitting a new primary driving gear (B), check the backlash.
To check the backlash, temporarily fit the clutch housing (1) complete with the primary driven gear (A) on
the gearbox primary shaft. Fix a dial gauge to the engine crankcase, positioning the stylus against a gear
tooth. Turn the driven gear (A) to mesh the teeth and check that backlash ranges between 0.05 and 0.07
mm.
Repeat the check at 16 different points of the driven gear.
If the measured values are outside the tolerance limits, try changing the position of driven gear (A) on the
primary shaft, leaving the driving gear (B) on the crankshaft. If the backlash is still outside the tolerance
limits, replace the complete primary drive gear (1).
After having checked the backlash, apply bush (F) part no. 88713.3406 on a torque wrench, lock sprocket
(B) with holding tool (E) part no. 88713.3417.
Position washer (4) and ring nut (3). Using the suitable tool (U), tighten ring nut (3) to a torque of 190 Nm
(Min. 171 Nm - Max. 209 Nm).
Refit the oil pump (C) and check the backlash between the oil pump gear and the primary drive gear on the
crankshaft.
Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the clutch housing (1). Fit the spacer (2) onto the primary
shaft. Fit the clutch housing (1) along with the driven gear (A).
Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch).
Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the primary drive gears
Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch).
Withdraw the clutch housing (1) complete with driven gear of the primary drive gear (A).
Remove the inner spacer (2).

Remove the oil pump (C) (Removing the oil pump).
Lock the primary sprocket (B) with holding tool (E) part no. 88713.3417 and loosen the threaded ring nut
(3) that locks the sprocket, using bush (F) part no. 88713.3406.
Remove the ring nut (3) and the lock washer (4).
Remove the complete primary drive driving gear (B) using a commercial puller and placing a brass or
aluminium pad between crankshaft and puller screw.
Remove spacer (D).

Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers.
Position the gearchange mechanism (3) together with control shaft, spring and plate into the chain-side
crankcase half.
Insert the screws (1) and (2) with the spacer (4).
Temporarily fit gearchange lever (or a service lever) and engine sprocket and shift to neutral gear.
Set tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 on the gearbox pawl.

Place tool (A) part no. 88713.3334 inserting the clutch rod (E) into the tool hole, block the pin (F) of the
tool in the gear pawl pressing with the hand in the point (G) (pawl stroke stop plate) towards the right, as
shown in photo.
In this position tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and the screw (2) to
a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Warning
Make sure that the gearchange mechanism fixing screws are those indicated in our spare part catalogues.
They must be screws of class 12.9 in order to respect the tightening torque indicated above.
Start tightening the first screw (1), and continue with screw (2).
Remove service tool.
Check that the pin (H) placed on the gearbox selector drum is aligned with the notch (L) on the gear pawl
(with gear in neutral).
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same
should apply when a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears
engage when shifting up and down.
Remove the previously installed lever and sprocket.
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
On the special screw (5), fit the gear ratchet (6), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (7) with
the square edge side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (8), positioning it so that the
hook end (A) is facing the gear ratchet.
Locate the hook (A) of the spring on the gear ratchet as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the screw thread.
Start the screw in the crankcase half.
Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half, as shown in the figure.
Tighten screw (5) to a torque of 18 Nm (Min. 16 Nm - Max. 20 Nm).
Manually move the gear ratchet to check for proper spring operation.
Grease and then fit the ball (4), spring (3), and seal (2) to the gear interlock plunger (1).
Tighten the gear interlock plunger to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 27 Nm - Max. 33 Nm).
Refit the primary drive gear (Refitting the primary drive gear and checking backlash).
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet

Remove the primary drive gear (Removing the primary drive gear).
Undo the interlock plunger screw (1) and remove the seal (2), the spring (3) and the ball (4).
Undo the clutch-side crankcase half screw (5) and remove the ratchet (6), the washer (7) and the spring
(8).

Remove the pump-water radiator hose (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover and flywheel-generator assembly (Removing generator cover).
Undo and remove the fixing screws (1) and (2) of the complete gearchange mechanism (3) and collect the
spacer (4).
Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and plate.
Visually inspect the gear selector fork (5) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the
selector drum.
If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism as shown in the
exploded view. Reassemble the gearchange mechanism orienting the eccentric pin (6), suitably lubricated,
in such a way that the lever (7) is positioned centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (8).
Check that the spring (9) is installed correctly as shown in the figure.
After having applied the recommended grease, tighten the nut (10) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max.
11 Nm).
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum.
If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these
dimensions with those of new components (Gearbox).
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or
deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever
part is most worn.
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear
changing or may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork
by referring to the limits specified for each part (Gearbox).
Overhauling the gearbox
Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no
sign of wear on the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork-gear groove, and
fork pin-desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float.
Restore the correct end float by shimming the gearbox shafts and the selector drum with suitable shims.
For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end clearance values, refer to Chapter "Gearbox".
Reassembling the gearbox assembly
To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter, "Closing the crankcase", relating to
the reassembly of the engine crankcase.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears
(B) are equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on
sliding gear (B) when engaging the gears.
Close the crankcase halves (Closing the crankcase).

Refit the cover, the drum and the clutch housing (Refitting the clutch).
Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump).
Refit the generator assembly and the generator side cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Reassembling the cylinder head).
Refit the camshaft assembly (Refitting the camshafts).
Refit the timing components (Removing the cylinder head pulley/idler pulley).
Fit the engine on the frame (Refitting the engine).
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox primary shaft, with the end shims (16)
(Reassembling the crankcase halves).
The figure shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox secondary shaft, with the calculated end
shim (1) (Reassembling the crankcase halves).
Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure.
Take particular care when installing the idler gears.
The assembly of the 3rd (12) and 4th (9) speed gears and the relative fixing components on the secondary
shaft is given as an example.
Fit the snap ring (7), checking that it is fully inserted into its groove on the shaft.
Push the snap ring into position with a suitable size tubular drift.
Slide the splined washer (8) over the shaft until it locates against the snap ring you have just fitted.
To fit the roller bearing cage (10) onto the shaft, first lubricate it with plenty of grease (of recommended
type) and then open it slightly to make it easier to slide on to the shaft.
Fit the 3rd speed gear (12).
Install the splined washer (8) on the gear.
Fit another roller bearing cage (10) using the method already described.
Fit the 4th speed gear (9).
Fit another three-pointed washer (8) and another snap ring (7) into the shaft. Push it inside its seat using
the previously used drift.
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Place the shaft in a vice in such a way to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when
using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the crankcase.
Disassembling the gearbox secondary shaft
Remove the clutch side shim washer (1) from secondary shaft.
Withdraw the first speed driven gear (3) with the roller cage (4) and the shim (5).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (6).
Slide off the splined washer (8).

Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (7) from its seat, taking care not to damage the
shaft surface.
Remove the fourth speed driven gear (9) with its roller bearing cage (10).
Remove the third speed driven gear (12).
Remove the roller bearing cage (10), the splined washer (8) and the snap ring (7).
Remove the sixth speed driven gear (13).
Remove the snap ring (7) and withdraw the splined washer (8) and the second speed driven gear (14).
Withdraw the roller bearing cage (10). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox
secondary shaft (15).
Disassembling the gearbox primary shaft
Remove chain side washer (16) from the primary shaft.
Remove the second speed driving gear (17). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the snap ring (7) and the
splined washer (8).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (18) with its roller cage (10). Then remove the splined washer (8) and
the snap ring (7).
Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (19).
Remove the snap ring (7) and the splined washer (8).
Slide out the fifth speed driving gear (20) with the relevant roller bearing cage (10) and the shim (15). All
the components have thus been removed from gearbox primary shaft (21).
Removing the gearbox assembly

Remove the timing components (Removing the timing outer covers).
Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
Remove the complete cylinder head assembly (Removing the cylinder heads).
Remove the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the generator side cover and the generator assembly (Removing the generator cover).
Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump).
Remove the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves)
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (1).

Move the forks (2) and (3) to disengage them from the slots in the gear selector drum (4).
Remove the gear selector drum (4) taking care not to invert the fitted shims (5) and (6).
Once removed, it is possible to replace the special rollers (7).
Remove gear selector forks (8) and (9).

Remove the gearbox primary (10) and secondary (11) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover
the shim washers on the ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (10) and
secondary (11) shafts as described in "Separating the crankcase halves".
Fitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Fit the roller cage unit (6) with washer (7) and internal race (5), applying prescribed grease on the washer
(7).
Install the roller bearing cage (6), washer (7) and inner race (5) assembly on the crankshaft.
Install the flywheel assembly (3) with the gear (4), aligning the notches as shown in the photo.
Fit the washer (2) on the end of the crankshaft.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the crankshaft and the nut (1).
Start the nut (1).
Lock the flywheel rotation with the special tool no. 88713.3367 and tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 330
Nm (Min. 313 Nm - Max. 346 Nm).
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Examine the inner part of generator rotor (8) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or
damage of any kind. Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
Disassembling the generator flywheel
Undo the screws (9) and remove the generator rotor (10) from the flywheel.
Insert two of the screws (9) just removed from the rotor in order to remove the flange (11) and the starter
clutch (12) from the flywheel (13).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange. Use a suitable drift to remove it.
Reassembling the flywheel/generator assembly
Fit starter clutch (12) on flange (11) taking starter clutch edge (A) with chamfer (B), fully home on flange.
Important
Assemble the components (starter clutch and flange) so that the edge of the starter clutch is positioned on
flange chamfered side.
Fit the flange (11) with starter clutch (12) fully home into the flywheel (13), ensuring the centring hole (C)
on flange matches the flywheel centring hole (D).
The flange centring hole (C) is the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E).
The centring hole (D) of the flywheel can be either one of the two holes (F).
Note
Use suitable tools to align the centring holes.
Important
Assemble the components (flange and flywheel) so that the edge of the starter clutch is enclosed between
flange and flywheel.
Fit rotor (10) on flywheel (13), matching one of the two flywheel centring holes (D) with the rotor centring
hole (G).
The rotor centring hole (G) is the one positioned on the same diameter as the fixing holes (H).
Note
Use suitable tools to align the centring holes.
Smear some threadlocker on the rotor/flywheel retaining screws (26) and start them in their holes.
Tighten the screws (26) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm), respecting the indicated
sequence.
Lubricate the race (L) of the driven gear (4) with engine oil.
Fit the driven gear on the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.
Note
To help insertion, turn the driven gear in the direction indicated by the green arrow.
Hold the flywheel (13) with one hand and check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the
green arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been fitted correctly.
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly
Fix tool (A) part no. 88713.3367 to the mounting holes M10 (B) of side stand.
Secure the tool to the flywheel with the screws (C). Unscrew the generator-flywheel retaining nut (1).
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the
wrench suddenly slipping off the nut.
Remove the nut (1), the washer (2) and the flywheel assembly (3) with the driven gear (4) from the
crankshaft.
Remove the bushing (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7).
Check the bushing (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7) for wear. Replace if worn.
Fitting the generator cover
Before the assembly, make sure that the following parts are fitted on the generator cover (9):
- the crankshaft bearing (11) with the circlip;

- the generator stator (12) with cable locking bracket (13).
Fit the water pump assembly (Refitting the water pump).
Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the generator cover.
Fit the two centring bushes (14).
Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI sealing compound on the cover mating surface, ensuring continuity around the holes for the retaining screws and bushes.
Grease the crankshaft and the gearchange lever shaft ends to facilitate installation of the cover and to prevent the sealing ring (7) from being damaged, if already installed in the cover.
While positioning the cover (6) on the crankcase half, slightly turn the timing layshaft belt rollers to facilitate insertion of the pump control shaft.
Starter motor gear pin (C) must be fitted to generator cover hole (B).
Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and centring bushes.
Note
Should it be necessary to remove the cover again, fit the puller no. 88713.1749 in the threaded holes, at the crankshaft.
Insert the fixing screws in their holes following the indications given in the table.

Ref. Q.ty Description

4 10 M6x25 mm screws

5 2 M6x30 mm screws
Tighten the retaining screws to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm).
Damp the sealing ring (7) with alcohol and install it on the generator cover (6), at the gearchange lever shaft.
Make sure that the O-ring (3) is installed on the cover (2).
Apply grease to the screws (1).
Tighten the two fixing screws (1) of the cover (2) matching the crankshaft to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Connect the generator cable connector to the main wiring (A).
Fit the clutch slave cylinder (Refitting the clutch slave cylinder).
Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disassembling the generator cover
Undo the three stator retaining screws (1) and the retaining screws (2) of the cable guide bracket (3) from
inside the generator cover.
Remove the stator (4) and the cable guide bracket (3).
The generator cover is fitted with a bearing (5), held in place by the circlip (6), which is located on the end
of the crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (6) with suitable pliers.
Remove the bearing (5) using a universal puller.
Be careful when fitting the new bearing (5) to ensure it is positioned with the shielded side facing away
from the cover.
Secure the bearing with the circlip (6), ensuring that it is correctly fitted in its seat in the generator cover
(7).
Loosen the unions (8) delivering water to the horizontal and vertical cylinder assemblies.
When fitting the new components, apply the recommended sealant and tighten to a torque of 25 Nm (Min.
23 Nm - Max. 27 Nm).
The unions (8) may also be removed without removing the generator cover (7) from the engine.
Remove the water pump components (A) (Removing the water pump).
Removing the generator cover

Remove the water pump-radiator hose (Removing the water pump).
Note
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are
easier with the engine on the bench.
Disconnect the generator cable connector from the main wiring (A).
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of cover (2) over the end of the crankshaft and collect the gasket.
Undo screws (4), (5) retaining the generator cover (6).

Fix service tool no. 88713.1749 to the holes left vacant by the screws (1) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (6) from the LH crankcase half.
There is a sealing ring (7) on the cover (6) at the gearchange lever shaft that may be damaged when
removing the generator cover.
Always check the condition of this sealing ring and replace it if damaged.
Refitting the starter motor gear
Position the washer (3) and the gear (2) on the pin (1) and drive it fully home on the crankcase half.
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Slide out the transmission pin (1) with gear (2) and washer (3).
Warning
Be careful when performing this operation since the washer could fall inside the crankcase halves.
At this point, it is possible to remove the starter motor.

Refitting the timing gears
Before reassembling the removed parts, check timing gears (6) for wear. Change, if necessary.
Important
The timing gears must always be replaced as a pair.
When introducing the driven gear (B) check that the key (5) is correctly fitted on the timing layshaft, align
the gear slot with the key matching the driving gear timing mark (A) with the gear (B).
Spacer (7) must be located under gear (A).

On completion of the refitting operations, check that washer (3) is staked against nut (4) in such a way to
prevent the nut from working loose.
Removing the timing gears
Slide out the driving gear (A) of the timing gear pair (1), the spacer (7) and remove the key (2).
Straighten out the lock washer (3) of nut (4).
Restrain the timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the locking nut (4).
Remove the nut (4), washer (3), timing driven gear (B) and key (5) from the timing layshaft.
Refitting the external components
Make sure that the O-rings (13) are fitted on the crankcase.
Fit the engine sensor (10) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Start the screw (11) with the washer (12) and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (10) and the timing gear (14). The
value must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
If the oil breather valve (2) has been disassembled, reassemble it tightening the three screws (21) to a
torque of 1Nm±10%.
Check the condition of O-rings (2) and replace if necessary.

Install the oil vapour breather valve (1) in the crankcase along with O-rings (2), previously lubricated.
Tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Position the by-pass spring (5) on the nipple (4) and apply the recommended threadlocker to the end of the
nipple to be screwed in the crankcase half.
Screw oil filter cartridge fitting (4) fully into the crankcase half, positioning the spring in the seat between
the two notches (A).
Tighten the nipple to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm).
Fit the seal (15) on the oil drain plug (16).

Position the seal so that the side with the square edge (B) is facing the chain side crankcase half.
Clean the plug thread, apply a bead of THREE BOND TB1215 along the plug thread spreading it by the
entire circumference (360°).
Screw the drain plug (16) with seal (15) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5 Nm - Max. 7 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excessive sealant.
Refit the gearbox neutral position sensor (4) with tool part no. 88713.3407.
Refit the mesh filter (A).

Check the condition of the O-rings (17) of the stud bolts (9) and replace them if necessary.
Use tool (C) part no. 88713.1920, to fit the O-rings (17) in the suitable seats (D) of stud bolts (9).
Now fit the stud bolts (9) on the crankcase halves, applying sealant on the thread and tightening to a
torque of 30 Nm (Min. 28 Nm - Max. 32 Nm).
Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.
If previously removed, apply recommended threadlocker on dowel (18), tighten to a torque of 15 Nm (Min.
13.5 Nm - Max. 16.5 Nm), fit the seal (19) on the service plug (20): the seal must be positioned so that the
square edge faces the clutch-side crankcase half.
Apply the specified threadlocker on the plug thread (20), insert it in the crankcase half and tighten to a
torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Refit the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the starter motor.
Refit the timing components (Refitting the timing belts).
Removing outer components

Undo the screw (1) and remove the oil breather valve (2) with the O-rings (3) from the engine.
Check the condition of O-rings (3) and replace them if necessary.
Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (4) and remove also by-pass spring (5).
Remove the mesh filter (A) from the clutch-side crankcase half (Changing coolant).
Remove the drain plug (6) with its seal (7).

Remove the gearbox position sensor (8) with tool part no. 88713.3407.
Remove the cylinder head stud bolts (9) with the aid of the appropriate tool.
To remove the engine sensor (10), undo the screw (11) and collect the washer (12).
Check the condition of O-rings (13) and replace them if necessary.
Shimming the shafts
Before assembling the crankcase halves, it is necessary to check the shims of the crankshaft and of the
gearbox shafts.
Crankshaft shims
The following shims are supplied as spare parts.

Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)

Crankshaft 2.05 2.05
After having installed the new main bearings (with bush (A) or flanged bearings (B)) proceed as follows to
determine the total “SA” height of the shimming.
Gearbox shaft shims


Gearbox primary shaft 1.2 1.6

Gearbox secondary shaft 3.15 0.8
Gearbox selector drum shims


Gear shift drum 1.0 0.9
Main bearings
To replace the bearings proceed as follows:
- heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 C;

- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;
- install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a
tubular drift that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;
- allow the parts to cool and check that the bearing is securely seated in the crankcase half.
Note
Fit all bearings ensuring that the side with marks faces upwards and is fully home on the bush.
In order to fit the bearings proceed as follows.

To refit the bearing (22), insert the roller bearing (3) so that the side with "marks" faces upwards and is
fully home on the bush (2); ensure that the groove (A) is fully visible.
Install the snap ring (4) into the groove (A), locking the roller bearing (3) into the bush (2).
In order to fit the bearing (22) onto the casing (1), heat the clutch side crankcase half (1) at a temperature
ranging between 95 °C and 110 °C max., until reaching an even temperature throughout the surface.
Immediately after having heated the crankcase half, fit the bearing (22) in its internal side, aiming it so
that the side with "marks" faces the crankcase half and is fully home inside it.
Position the notch (B) that indicates the centre of the slot on the bush, in line with the dowel mounting
threaded hole (C).
Apply recommended threadlocker to the special dowel thread (5).
Tighten the special dowel (5) on the crankcase half (1) fitting the tapered side (E) inside the slot (D) of the
previously installed bush (A).
Tighten the special dowel (5) to a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Apply threadlocker to the dowel thread (6).
Screw the dowel (6) on the crankcase half (1) and tighten it to a torque of 22 Nm (Min. 20 Nm - Max. 24
Nm).
After tightening, remove any excess of threadlocker.
For bearing (23) pre-tightening, insert the roller bearing (24) so that the side with "marks" faces
downwards and is fully home inside the bush (25); ensure that the groove (F) is fully visible.
Install the snap ring (26) into the groove (F), locking the roller bearing (24) into the bush (25).
In order to fit the bearing (23) onto the crankcase half (9), heat the chain side crankcase half (9) at a
temperature ranging between 95 °C min. and 110 °C max., until reaching an even temperature throughout
the surface.
Immediately after having heated the crankcase half, fit the bearing (23) in its external side, aiming it so
that the side with "marks" faces the crankcase half and is fully home inside it; ensure that the groove (E) is
fully visible.
From crankcase half internal side, fit the snap ring (27) into the groove (E), locking the bearing (23) in the
crankcase half (9).
Attention
On worn engines, the bearing holder bushes may no longer be tight fitted in the crankcase halves.
After having removed the bushes, ensure that the interference fit between casing and bush, with bearing
installed, is (0.105÷0.029) mm on flywheel side, and (0.126÷0.037) mm on clutch side.
Overhauling the crankcase halves
Visually inspect the engine crankcase halves.

Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that the bearings (24) and (3), and the bushes (25) and (2) are in good conditions.
Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs (refer to the procedure below in “Main bearings”).
Note
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to replace all the crankcase bearings.
Bearings (5) and (6) support gearbox shafts and are secured with screws (8) and spacers (7).
At each overhaul it is recommended to replace also the sealing ring (30) on the outside of bearing (6).
Replace the bearings (10) and (11) on the ends of the gearbox shafts and timing layshaft bearings (12) and (13).
Take care not to lose the shim (14) interposed between the bearing (10) on the end of the gearbox primary shaft and the chain side crankcase half.
The following components are fitted at the roller bearing (13):
- a sealing ring (15), on the external side: replace it upon each overhaul;
- a snap ring (18), on the internal side.
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.

Check the condition of centring bushes (16). If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using proper tools.
When the centring bushes (16) are hard to remove from casing, use a left-hand tap to force bushes out.
Important
The bushes must always be replaced when they have been removed using the above procedure.
Remove the bearing (11), the circlip (17) and the needle bearing (12).
Reassembling the crankcase halves
The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly
flat and free from burrs.
Reassembling the clutch side crankcase half
The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half (1):
- the secondary shaft bearing (11); apply grease on the bearing rollers. Drive the inner race (L), removed
previously, fully home in the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race;
- the primary shaft bearing (5), secured with the screws (8) and the retaining spacers (7); apply
recommended threadlocker to the screws (8), and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11
Nm);
- the main bearing (3) with the relevant bush (2).
The roller bearing (13) with circlip (29) installed in correspondence with the timing layshaft.
Insert the circlip (29) in the crankcase half installing it in its seat on the bearing.
Reassembling the generator side crankcase half

The double race ball bearing (6) supporting the selector fork shaft shall be present on the inner side of
crankcase half (9).
Fit the two spacers (7) to the gearbox secondary shaft bearing (6) starting the screws fully into the
crankcase half (9).
The primary shaft end bearing (10) with the internal spacer (14), oriented so that the closed side of the
plastic roller cage (B) faces the crankcase half: apply grease to the bearing rollers.
Fit the inner race (A) removed previously from the bearing, fully home on it.
Apply grease to the inner race.
The main bearing (24) with the relevant bush (25).
Fit the bearing (12) with the retaining circlip (17) installed in correspondence with the timing layshaft.
Insert the circlip (17) in the crankcase half installing it in its seat on the bearing (12).
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings), however it is good practice to
install the bearings so that the written side is facing upwards.
Fit the mesh filter as described in section "Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge".
Important
To avoid damaging the filter, insert it by hand only. Do not use hammers or other metal tools.
Above the mesh filter seat there is a plug (19) which closes off the oilway.
If it is to be replaced, apply the recommended sealant (20) to its thread.
Tighten the plug to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 27 Nm).
Separating the crankcase halves

Use two screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (1) from the timing layshaft (2) on the clutch-side crankcase
half.
Warning
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Undo the crankcase half screws on the chain side.

Undo the two screws (3) on the clutch side near the vertical cylinder seat.
Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller (B) part no. 88713.1749 fitted. Secure cover to
crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shim washers on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Remove the gearbox shafts and the gearbox selector drum from the crankcase halves as described in
section (Removing the gearbox assembly). Drive out the crankshaft (A) using a plastic mallet, taking care not
to lose the snap ring.
Remove the timing layshaft (2).
Remove the screws (4), remove the pipes (5) and collect the O-rings (6).
Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident
signs of machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Thoroughly clean and lubricate the crank pin (A) on the crankshaft (4).
Take the bearings (3) necessary to shaft/connecting rod coupling, following the indications
(Cylinder/piston).
Insert the bearings in the connecting rod seats matching the tooth (B) of the bearings with the
corresponding marks (C) on the connecting rod cap (D) and on the connecting rod small end (E).
It is essential that the tooth (B) adheres perfectly with its own mark (F).
Warning
In the case of BLUE and YELLOW bearing coupling, fit the YELLOW on the connecting rod and the BLUE on
the connecting rod cap.
Lubricate the bearing shell (3) fitted on the connecting rod small end.
Check that each connecting rod (2) is fitted with its centring pins (G) between cap and the relevant shank.
Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air.
Fit the connecting rod on the crankshaft, in the same position in which it was removed.
Insert the connecting rod in the crankshaft, so that the centring pins face the internal side.
Join the connecting rod cap (H) with the corresponding connecting rod small end (I), ensuring that the
progressive number stamped on the two pieces is the same, as shown in the figure.
Important
Check that the progressive numbers of a connecting rod are consistent with the selection of the other
connecting rod.
Fill the recommended grease into the two ends of the hole to lubricate threads and underside of the new
screws (1) and the thread of the shaft.
Warning
The grease utilised is irritant in contact with the skin; wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of con-rod bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
The con-rod screws may only be used for one tightening.

Tighten the screws (1) by hand.
If this proves difficult or if the screws jam, undo them and lubricate them again.
Remove excess of grease.
Tighten the screw by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.
Fit the spacer (L) of the tool no. 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial
clearance with the fork feeler gauge (M) of the tool no. 88713.2878 which is available in the following
thickness values: 0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (N) to align the connecting rods and then tighten the screws.
Tighten the screws (1) with a torque wrench and angle reading (degree wheel) in accordance with the
procedure described below (observe the same tightening sequence at each step as that of the previous
step):
1 first tighten each screw to a torque of 20 Nm;

2 now carry out a second tightening to a torque of 35 Nm on each screw;
3 tighten each screw, reading the angle of rotation, to a torque of 70 Nm, checking that the final angle is
between 55° and 75°.
Important
If the final angle is less than 55° or greater than 75°, repeat the procedure using two new screws.
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly
Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- clearance with gudgeon pin upon fitting.
In the event of excessive wear (Crankshaft), replace the connecting rod.

The small end bush must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat.
Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis: it must be H-h
lower than 0.02 mm; change the con-rod if it is not so.
The connecting rod is supplied in two size classes A and B relative to the big end diameter (Crankshaft) as
punch marked on the side of the cap.
It is preferable to use crankshafts and connecting rods of the same size class.
Replacing the con-rod small end bush
To remove the worn bush, use a suitable punch and a press.

When installing the new bushing it is necessary to position the hole (X) of the bushing in line with the hole
(Y) of the connecting rod.
Connecting rod big end bearings
It is good practice to replace the bearings (3) each time the engine is overhauled.
Replacement bearings are supplied ready for fitting and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery
cloth.
The bearings may belong to two different size classes, each identified by a specific colour (YELLOW and
BLUE) - reference (S) in the figure.
The bearings are comprised of an external steel ring, the inner face of which is electroplated with a lead-
based compound.
The table shows the appropriate bearings to be fitted according to the size class of the crankshaft and
connecting rod.

Crankshaft class Connecting rod class Bearings colour

B B BLUE/YELLOW

B A YELLOW/YELLOW

A B BLUE/BLUE

A A BLUE/YELLOW
Crankshaft
The main bearing and big end journals should not be scored or grooved; the threads, keyways, and slots
must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 2 mm.
Use a micrometer to measure ovality and taper of the crank pin. Measure oval and taper in several different
directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by positioning the crankshaft between two
opposing centres.
At each overhaul, it is advisable to clean the crankshaft internal oilways.
The specified values are indicated in section "Crankshaft".
The crankshaft is supplied in two size classes (crank pin) A and B, as punch marked (P) on the side of the
crank web, sprocket side.
Loosen all crankshaft plugs (2) and (3), heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to remove the sealant applied
at the time of assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove
any residues that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Apply recommended threadlocker to the threads of plugs (2) and (3), and refit them.
Tighten all plugs to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm).
Big-end bearing-crank pin clearance
In order to correctly couple big-end bearings and crank pins, proceed as follows:
- apply a strip (A) of GREEN “Plastigauge PG-1” to the crank pin;

- fit the connecting rod and the original big-end bearings.
Tightening procedure
Tighten the connecting rod bolts (Class 14.9) as described below:
- apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread;

- tighten the screw to a torque of 35 Nm ±10% at 50 rpm;
- wait for 2 seconds then loosen by 360 °C at 30 rpm;
- tighten to a snug torque of 20 Nm ±10% at 30 rpm;
- tighten to a snug torque of 35 Nm ±10% at 10 rpm;
- tighten by 65°±1° at 14rpm;
- Check the applied tightening torque (Min. 70Nm - Max. 113Nm).
Continue the coupling procedure as described below:
- loosen the screws and remove the connecting rod;

- check the width of the strip of GREEN “Plastigauge PG-1” (A), using the suitable reference scale (B);
- the width detected with the scale (B) represents the existing clearance: if it does not meet the specified
limits (Crankshaft), it is necessary to replace the big end bearings or the crankshaft and repeat the
procedure;
- If the clearance value complies with the established limits, carefully remove the strip of GREEN
“Plastigauge PG-1” (A) from the crankshaft and repeat the tightening procedure as described.
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly
Loosen the screws (1) and separate the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.
Refitting the connecting rod assembly
Install the connecting rod assembly (1) and (2) in the crankcase half, carry out the shimming and
crankcase half reassembly procedure as described in section "Closing the crankcase".
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats. Incorrect
positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase
halves.
Refit the mesh filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the starter motor.
Refit the timing components (Refitting the timing belts).
Removing the connecting rod assembly

Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves)
After separating the crankcase halves, withdraw the crankshaft (1) complete with connecting rods (2).

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DUCATI DIAVEL Workshop Manual

D.03 - Technical data

D.04 - Maintenance operations

D.06 - Electric system and engine control system

D.08 - Fuel/Exhaust System

General advice on repair work

Used engine oil

1 Transport packaging integrity visual check (where applicable);

1 for rebound adjustment;

To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.

Change the brake pads as follows.

Insert new worn pads (5) and spring (6).

Tighten the retaining screws (2) to the specified torque of 44 Nm ± 5%.

To adjust the tension remove the rear splash guard.

Remove the cap to expose the bleed valve (4).

Unscrew the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn.

The slot is marked with letter (E)

Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%, in the sequence 1 - 2 - 3 - 1.

Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system).

Operate the brake pedal several times to pressurise the circuit.

Open the bleed valve (8) to allow fluid to flow out.

Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (C).

Remove the tank fairings (Removing the tank fairings).

Refit the air conveyor covers (Refitting the air filters).

Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Correctly install the cartridge in the airbox seat.

Refit the exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).

Spark plug type

Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Remove spark plug cables (1) and (2) of both heads.

Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).

Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Tighten the drain plug (3) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).

Screw it into seat and tighten it to 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm).

Oil mesh filter

Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.

Loosen screws (2) and remove rear-view mirrors (1).

Proceed in the same way to reassemble the left-hand half-fairing.

Apply threadlocker to the screws (25).

Apply threadlocker to the screws (9).

Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%

Proceed in the same way to reassemble the left-hand half-fairing.

Proceed in the same way to disassemble the left-hand half-fairing (1).

Proceed in the same way to remove the left-hand half-fairing (12).

Reassembling the seat

Disassembling the seat

Remove the seat and turn it upside down.

Version with carbon mudguard

Apply rubber-specific lubricant to the pin (E) of bracket (13).

Mat (15) must be positioned as shown in the figure.

- the battery (14);

Remove the belly fairing (Removing the belly fairing)

- the battery mounting bracket (4) and the battery (14);

The regulator (1) is located in the electrical component compartment.

Removing the regulator

Refitting the regulator

Position the regulator (2) on the support.

Remove the left-hand belly fairing (Removing the belly fairing).

Remove the fuse cap (A) to reach it.

A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).

Refit the left-hand belly fairing (Refitting the belly fairing).

Significantly lower values can be due to:

Removing the generator

Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant).