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Totem: The University of Western

Ontario Journal of Anthropology


Volume 19, Issue 1 2011 Article 6

A Multidisciplinary Approach to Ancient


Maya Adornment and Costume: Mobilizing
the Body and the Senses
Cara G. Tremain∗


Trent University, caratremain@hotmail.com

Copyright 2011
c by the authors. Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthro-
pology is produced by The Berkeley Electronic Press (bepress). http://ir.lib.uwo.ca/totem
Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 67

Mobilizing the Body and the for costume and adornment included cotton,
Senses: A Multi-Disciplinary wood, skin, and feathers.
I regard costume and adornment as
Approach to Ancient Maya
very similar elements with an unclear
Adornment and Costume division, though the latter could include
singular elements that comprised a costume,
Cara G. Tremain such as a belt, necklace or ear ornament. In
addition, the term „costume‟ as opposed to
Introduction „dress‟, will be used in this article in part
The ancient Maya were a complex based on ancient Maya ideology. Dress was
civilization that occupied the modern-day something worn everyday but costume was
countries of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, worn for special occasions such as a dance
Honduras, and El Salvador (Figure 1). Their or a ritual, and was thus more heavily
territory is part of the larger archaeological imbued with ideological significance than
culture area referred to as Mesoamerica, and everyday dress (Schele and Miller 1986:66).
for this reason is designated a subarea within Costuming was far more elaborate, had a
a much larger area. The Maya subarea was higher frequency of exotic materials (such as
not a homogenous empire, as it was com- jade or feathers) than everyday dress, and
osed of many independent states, ruled over was often portrayed in iconographic
by different kings and queens (Coe evidence (murals/figurines/ceramics/sculp-
1993:133; Martin and Grube 2008:6-7; ture). From a Western perspective, ancient
Reese-Taylor et al. 2009). As well as Maya iconography might be referred to as
referring to the culture, the word „Maya‟ „art‟, but I will not be using this reference as
refers to the 31 Mayan language dialects there is no word for art in Mayan language
which were (and some of which still are) (Anton 1970:35). The closest translation in
spoken in Central America (Webster Yucatec Maya is its’atil, which means
2002:38). Studies of the ancient Maya are science, skill, ability, or knowledge (Tate
generally divided into three periods of time: 1993:29).
the Preclassic period (2000 BC- 250 AD), To begin to improve the body of
the Classic period (250- 1000 AD) and the evidence regarding costume and adornment,
Postclassic period (1000-1540 AD). I am introducing a multidisciplinary method
The ancient Maya are well-known which can be employed by other archae-
for their „exotic‟ appearance, practice of ologists interested in researching, studying
body modification, and colourful and richly and understanding costume and adornment. I
ornamented costume and adornment. have studied and analyzed relevant ancient
Despite public and scholarly fascination Maya iconographic evidence from ceramic
with these aspects of their culture, there has vessels, figurines, sculpture, artefacts of
thus far been no concise volume of work adornment, and painted murals. These are
published on the subject of their costume both public and private examples of
and adornment. Due to the “destructive iconography. The public examples include
humidity” of the Maya subarea and artefacts of adornment worn for public cere-
perishable nature of the materials used in monies and rituals. The private examples
costume and adornment, archaeologists have include murals since these were painted on
had difficulty in recovering evidence of, or the interior of architecture to which only
information about, these aspects of their elites had access, as well as figurines, as
culture (Schele and Miller 1986:16). many were specifically created to accomp-
Perishable organic materials commonly used

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Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
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Figure 1.
Map of the Maya subarea, with archaeological sites mentioned in text.

any the dead into the afterlife and were not the Yucatán Maya by Fray Diego de Landa
seen by the public. Ceramic vessels can be (Tozzer 1966). Landa was a Spanish bishop
either public or private, depending upon the who travelled to the Yucatán Peninsula in
context in which they were originally used. Mexico in the sixteenth century as part of
Sculpture was either private or public, in the Spanish mission to convert the Maya to
being located in or on either the interior or Christianity. Although he was responsible
exterior of buildings. Since many, if not all, for the destruction of thousands of examples
of these iconographic examples were of Maya artwork and accounts, as well as
commissioned by the elite, and thus portray the torture of many Maya, his account
scenes of the elite, this paper will provides valuable insights into many aspects
concentrate on the Maya elite. Additionally, of their civilization not long after the
it is thought that only the elites wore Spanish conquest and is therefore
elaborate costumes and adornment (Sharer considered a significant source of pre-
and Traxler 2006:88). Contact information (Graham 1998:29;
The iconographic evidence is Restall and Chuchiak 2002:664). Although
combined with pertinent ethnographic his account is that of the Yucatán Peninsula,
evidence and the ethnohistoric account of his findings are commonly agreed to be

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 69

relevant to the larger Maya subarea because The idea of moving beyond the
of the many shared cultural aspects among visual aspect of costume and adornment and
the Maya. considering their effect upon the senses is
Since archaeologists use their own related to phenomenology. Phenomenology
senses to encode and decipher Maya promotes the physical and sensory
iconography (sight, at the very least), I seek experiences of objects and places as a way
to address how these senses can be used to of understanding the past (Merleau-Ponty
explore and better understand ancient Maya 1970; Tilley 2004). Advocates of
costume and adornment. I address aspects of phenomenology argue that Western cultures
sound, smell and touch, as well as the effect place too much emphasis on visual exper-
that costumes and adornment had on bodily iences and, since other cultures consider
movement. Houston, Stuart and Taube other senses to be far more important, it is
(2006:134) argued that the senses are imperative to move beyond just the visual
usually not the concern of archaeologists (Tilley 2004:15).
because they do not leave any remnants in I am aware of variation in costume
the archaeological record—however, there is across ancient Maya sites and that it is not
iconographic evidence from ancient Maya wise to assume that similar costume
sites for the presence of speech, scent, sight, elements from different sites and time
and touch. Even though the sensations of the periods have the same meaning (Tate
past cannot be retrieved, the authors 1993:84). Therefore, some of these findings
believed that we can suggest senses via what are not valid for the entire ancient Maya
we see in ancient Maya iconography. This population, but can nevertheless give insight
they termed synesthesia (Houston, Stuart, into some aspects of ancient Maya culture.
and Taube 2006:136-137). They also argued
that because the ancient Maya commun- The value of costume and adornment
icated the presence of these senses, they studies
would have been understood as projective. It is important to study costume and
Consequently, rather than the body passively adornment because such an analysis can
receiving, it actively reaches out to see, provide valuable information about ancient
smell, taste, touch, and hear (Houston, Maya religion and ideology. It has been
Stuart, and Taube 2006:134). argued that clothes are not meaningless
In strong opposition to Houston, because they are used as a visual form of
Stuart and Taube is the work of Foucault communication and are literally “a window
(1977:135). He argued that the body is a through which we might look into a culture”
symbol of the social order and can be (Arthur 1999:1). Iconography, which is used
moulded and manipulated, terming it by scholars to gain information about
“docile”. The term implies that the body is costume and adornment, was also employed
passive, but scholars such as Adams by the ancient Maya elite to visually
(2007:109-110) have argued that the body is communicate and educate the wider
active, an argument I also favour. commoner population (Kubler 1969:48; Tate
Consequently, I will be using the framework 1993:31; 34).
proposed by Houston, Stuart and Taube Adams (2007:119) argues that
(2006:134) which suggested that the ancient analysing dress and adornment requires you
Maya body became active when it was to imagine yourself in another person‟s skin,
adorned and costumed. a process that acts as a constant and
important reminder of one‟s own status as

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
TOTEM 70

an outsider. It also acts as an opposition profiles. Just as an ear of maize is long and
between „passive‟ and „active‟ bodies, narrow, tapering to a point, they altered the
between those who wear these adornments shape of their heads to reflect this shape
and those who analyze them. It is important using both permanent and temporary
to consider that I will be analysing icono- methods. A permanent method included
graphic evidence as a Western outsider. cranial modification, whereby pressure
Archaeologists who have published icono- would be applied to the forehead from an
graphic studies have also been aware of this, early age to alter the shape of the skull over
noting that “the language of Maya art is time. Temporary methods included affixing
alien to us...its message aimed at people of an attachment to the nose and the
another age...we must learn to see in a manipulation of the hair into a high, narrow
different way and to hear a different style, both methods which helped to create
message” (Schele and Miller 1986:33). an elongated profile (Houston, Stuart, and
Thus, this paper aims to introduce another Taube 2006:45; Miller 1999:163). The
way in which we can look at and understand opportunity to emulate the sacred ideology
clothes and adornment. of renewal may have been a reflection of the
high status of elites.
Maya ideology As Western scholars, we look at
Knowledge of ancient Maya ideo- these practices as ‟exotic‟, in part by
logy is drawn from archaeology, epigraphy, denying the phenomena of our own body
ethnography, and ethnohistory (Sharer and modifications. To achieve the stereotypical
Traxler 2006:719). An important ethno- Western feminine ideal, females apply
historic account is the Popul Vuh, an makeup, alter the colour and style of their
account of the Maya creation myth by the hair, wear clothes that emphasize certain
Quiché Maya in the highlands of Guatemala. body parts, and add height using heeled
Many of the characters and events in the shoes. To achieve the stereotypical Western
Popul Vuh are known to have a deeply male ideal, males increase their physical
rooted past among the Maya, since images strength through bodybuilding, modify the
relating to these events have been illustrated length and style of facial hair, and also alter
in different forms of ancient Maya material the colour and style of their hair. The
culture (Tedlock 1996:16). Although the existence of multiple and sometimes over-
Maya creation myth varied throughout the lapping genders in Western society means
Maya subarea, the central ideological that the above practices are not limited to
principle remained the same. This principle any one gender and may be practiced by
stated that the world was in a constant state many individuals. Thus, these practices can
of change and renewal. The Maya were be widespread and numerous. Due to their
reminded of this daily by the birth of the sun frequency and familiarity within Western
in the east, its death in the west and its society, such contortions to the body are
rebirth in the east. The sun was a metaphor seen as „normal‟ practices (Mascia Lees and
for the constant renewal of life after death Sharpe 1992:7). In the same way, the
(Sharer and Traxler 2006:730). Renewal was practices of the ancient Maya would have
also seen in the maize plant (the staple crop been normal to them since they would have
of the Maya), since it renewed itself after witnessed such sights from a young age
each harvest (Freidel, Schele, and Parker (Houston, Stuart, and Taube 2006:27).
2001:206). The ancient Maya elite sought to The costume and adornment worn by
emulate the shape of maize in their own the ancient Maya had important ideological

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 71

significance. Just as some cultural groups habitus... practices... without in any way
today wear objects that are believed to affect being the product of obedience to rules”
the wearer in some way (Rubinstein (1977:72). Essentially habitus is the
1995:25), the ancient Maya believed that the underlying actions of the body that we
costuming they wore would transform the regard as second nature (Houston, Stuart,
wearer into a god or an ancestor, or even and Taube 2007:5-6). It is interesting to
into the spirit of an animal (Kubler consider whether the ancient Maya
1969:29). The application of costume and associated certain types of movement with
adornment has also been linked to Maya costumes and adornment, and whether they
ideology, since the „dressing‟ of bodies is might have imitated such movements even
seen to be similar to a final layer of “skin” after costume and adornment were removed.
that took the meaning of clothing or Using iconography to gain an idea of
adornment to a different level (Houston, movement can be problematic, however.
Stuart, and Taube 2006:25-26). Images on media such as ceramics are static,
and archaeologists attempt to use such static
Bodily movement iconographical evidence to infer a sense of
Ethnographic studies have provided movement (Houston, Stuart, and Taube
evidence of how clothing and adornment 2006:5). To overcome this problem, I
affect the movement of the body. Becker suggest that the weight and material of
(2007:76) discussed heavy wool gowns costume and adornment can be used to infer
worn by males in Morocco. Their heaviness movement. For example, ancient Maya
is a representation of the transition from boy elites are often portrayed wearing a great
to man, since males have to be physically deal of finery. It has been suggested that “all
strong enough to wear the gowns. The this finery must have been heavy and
weight acts as a reminder that the individual awkward, necessitating cautious, measured
is no longer a child, but bears the “heavy” movement to maintain balance and dignity
responsibility that comes with adulthood. in public ritual” (Schele and Miller
The weight of the gowns effectively restricts 1986:67). At the site of Yaxchilán in
bodily movement. Similarly, Adams Mexico, sculpted figures are described as
(2007:117) described njaga anklets worn by having “massive thighs”, supporting the
women in Nigeria in the 1930s and 1940s. weight of the masses of feathers, ornaments,
These anklets were made of brass and were and headdresses that they wear (Tate
a sign of wealth. The brass made them very 1993:37). This suggests that the costuming
heavy to wear, and changed the way that a worn by the elite created slow, purposeful
woman walked, making movement very movements, creating a dignified air.
distinctive. Adams (2007:119) proposed that Costuming associated with dance is
such movement may have been imitated, to also portrayed on iconography (Figure 2).
suggest the presence of these anklets and Figures in dance scenes often wear elaborate
their accompanying wealth and societal costumes with large headdresses. These are
distinction. It is unknown whether this likely to have been heavy, so it is important
movement was learned and conscious or to consider how dances would have been
unconscious. performed. I propose that dances were made
The idea of movement being un- up of slow movements, because to perform
conscious is related to the work of Bordieu repeated movements wearing heavy
(1977), who argued that: “the structures... of costumes would have required strength and
a particular type of environment produce skill and must not have been an easy task to

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
TOTEM 72

Figure 2.
Details from ceramics illustrating dance movements.
(Left: K2360; right: K4824, both © Justin Kerr)

perform quickly. There is also abundant the person, as with the wearing of animal
evidence of individuals wearing animal skins.
skins and masks for rituals and dances. As As for the idea of the body being
previously discussed, the ancient Maya active rather than docile, there is good
believed that such costuming would evidence that some forms of costume invited
transform the wearer into the spirit of an certain kinds of bodily movement, and that
animal (Kubler 1969:29). Again, these the wearing of animal or human skin may
animal costumes and masks appear very have allowed the wearer to take on a
large and heavy, again requiring slow different spirit, thus becoming physically
movements. and spiritually active. Advocates of
In addition to animal skin, the phenomenology agree that “artefacts...may
ancient Maya may have worn human skin. become parts of bodies” (Tilley 2004:9),
Landa wrote of Maya priests wearing flayed which further suggests that elements of
human skin from sacrificial victims: “they costume and adornment were designed not
threw the body, now dead, rolling down the only for visual appreciation, but perhaps to
steps. The officials below took it and flayed encourage active movement. The following
it whole, taking off all the skin with the sections discuss the ability of costume to
exception of the feet and hands, and the engage the other senses including hearing,
priest... covered himself... with that skin” smell and touch, moving beyond
(Tozzer 1966:119). It has also been interpretations that focus on the visual
suggested that human flesh and motion aspects.
made divine essences animate (Houston
2006: 149), implying that the wearing of Sound
human skin combined with movement of the There appears to have been a link
body was important ritually. It is unknown between costume and sound, since costumes
how such costuming would have affected often included jade belts celts (elongated
movement, and whether the person wearing
human skin would have taken on the soul of

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 73

Figure 3.
A figurine from the site of Jaina, Mexico, which also
functions as a whistle with three pipes.
(Photograph K6095 © Justin Kerr)

pieces resembling an axe head, attached to Maya were part of rituals and performances
belts) and shell tinklers (perforated olive alongside elaborate and exotic costume and
shells sewn onto clothing)— both of which adornment (Healy, Rodens, and Downe
create sound. Taube (2005) tested the sound 2006:23), further emphasizing a link
quality of jade and discovered that it has between sound and costume. It has been
good acoustic qualities. Based on this argued that sound and music were essential
observation, he argued that belt celts made components for supplication of ancient
from jade would have emitted high and Maya deities (Houston, Stuart, and Taube
sharp clinking sounds (2005:32). Shell 2006:255; 267; Taube 2004:78), which may
tinklers were often attached to the bottom of explain why elements such as jade celts and
costumes and would also have made sound tinklers were attached to costumes. Perhaps
as a person moved. Since movement would sound was equally, if not more, important
have facilitated these sounds, this suggests than the visual aspect of costume because of
that costuming encouraged motion— the association to the deities.
allowing the body to become „active‟. Jade
celts combined with shell tinklers would Smell
have made an array of sounds, suggesting There may have been a strong
that costumes were constructed with the relationship between the sense of smell and
intention of being heard as well as seen. the wearing of costume and adornment. The
The link to sound can also be seen in ancient Maya may have used flowers, herbs
figurines from the site of Jaina in Mexico. and copal (aromatic tree resin) to perfume
Many of these figurines wear elaborate the body. Although remains of burnt copal
costume and adornment and also functioned have been recovered from various ancient
as musical instruments (Figure 3). Musical Maya sites, there is no firm archaeological
instruments manufactured by the ancient or iconographic evidence for the use of

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
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Figure 4.
Reenactment of an ancient Mesoamerican ceremony in Mexico City,
illustrating the wearing of costume and perfuming the body with incense.
Photograph by author

Figure 5.
Example of a nose attachment (the elongated horizontal piece atop the nose)
from the Sarcophagus of Hanab-Pakal.
(Based on Schele and Mathews 1998:116).

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 75

copal as a bodily perfume (Coe 1988:231; He argued, rather than consuming food,
Coggins and Shane III 1984:130). There is, ancient Maya deities consumed breath and
however, written evidence from Landa, who aroma. Thus, aroma was intimately linked to
described the offering of incense to idols: the deities and aroma itself operated as a
“and they returned to the worship of their symbolic and spiritual sensory experience.
idols and to offer them sacrifices...of Additionally, Houston, Stuart and Taube
incense” (Tozzer 1966:75). He also (2006:141) have argued that jade ear
portrayed the Maya as being “great lovers of ornaments often resembled living flowers,
perfumes”, employing “bouquets of flowers suggesting the presence of scent and
and odoriferous herbs” as their perfume perfume. As well as relating to the idea of an
(Tozzer 1966:89). active body (because the body is thought to
Heightening the sense of smell be wearing living, active flowers), this
through the use of perfume may have been a further demonstrates a link to the sense of
widespread practice in Mesoamerica, and smell and suggests that costumes may have
incense is still used in modern renditions of been constructed with the intention of being
ancient Mesoamerican ceremonies (Figure smelt or giving the impression that they
4). Comparatively, the Somali people use could be smelt.
frankincense and its perfumed smoke to
perfume the body (Akou 2007:19) so it is Touch
not unreasonable to suggest that the ancient Finally, the texture of costuming and
Maya may have burnt copal and used its adornment creates a desire to “touch” and
resulting smoke to do the same. “feel”. The most obvious example of the
Houston, Stuart and Taube creation of some form of texture among the
(2006:141) argued that smell was closely ancient Maya was the practice of
associated with courtly life in ancient Maya scarification and tattooing. Tattooing
culture. Therefore, smell may have been involves pigment being added through
used to conjure images and associations of intentional breaks in the skin while
nobility. The relationship between smell, scarification does not involve any pigment;
adornment and nobility is further tattooing also may or may not create a scar.
emphasized in the nasal attachments worn It is important to be aware that the ancient
by the ancient Maya. The sarcophagus cover Maya may not have considered a strict
of Hanab-Pakal, the ruler of the site of division between the two, and perhaps they
Palenque in Mexico, clearly illustrates a overlapped in meaning and symbolism.
nasal attachmenti intended to change and Although there is no archaeological
enhance the overall shape of the nose evidence for these practices, in part because
(Figure 5). human remains do not survive well in the
Such attachments provide an enticing tropical climate of the Maya subarea, there
suggestion that the ancient Maya had a is iconographic evidence (Figure 6), and
concern with adornment and smell, and an ethnohistoric information from the account
example of a site ruler wearing such an of Landa. He wrote that “they tattooed their
attachment further implies that smell may bodies, and the more they do this, the more
have been associated to the nobility. brave and valiant they are considered”
The importance of smell and scent (Tozzer 1966:91). The account is a good
for the ancient Maya might be explained by indication that these practices were
Taube‟s (2004:72-73) study of the associated with bravery and courage.
relationship between the breath and scent.

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Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
TOTEM 76

Elsewhere, it has been argued that restricted to Maya elites. Ethnographic


tattooing and scarification might have been a evidence from Nigeria has illustrated that uli
privilege of persons of noble blood painting (a black-line body art) among the
(Thompson 1946:19). This highly visual Igbo women allows females to manipulate
form of adornment would have served as a how others look at them (Adams 2007:116).
strong reminder that the body could be This practice could have been employed by
manipulated through cutting the skin, but, ancient Maya elites as a method of
because the body was active, it would heal associating themselves with the deities or to
itself. This may have been a visual process heighten their status. However, in opposition
of renewal of the body; cutting the skin to the idea that only elites used body paint,
„killed‟ the skin and its healing was its is the evidence from murals at the site of
„rebirth‟. Tattoing and scarification may Calakmul in Mexico, which reveal images
have been limited to the elites due to the of merchants and non-elites wearing face-
practices‟ resemblance to the death and paint (Vargas, López, and Martin 2009:
rebirth of Maya deities, a show of divine 19247). Therefore, body paint may have
power that the elites would have coveted for been used for different occasions and by
themselves as a symbol of their importance persons of differential statuses with these
in society. differences symbolized by specific colours
Touch also was involved in the or designs.
application of paint to the body, „dressing‟
the body through direct treatment to the Conclusion
skin. There is strong evidence for the use of Understanding the past requires us to
body paint from various iconographic go beyond common assumptions. The lack
images in the Maya subarea, such as those of information about ancient Maya costume
found on ceramics (Figure 7), as well as and adornment provides an opportunity to
from Landa‟s account: “[they] had the go beyond assumptions of how these
custom of painting their faces and bodies cultural elements affected both the wearer
red...they thought it very pleasing” (Tozzer and the spectator. Considering that
1966:89). Landa also discussed the practice “knowledge is the sensuous, sensing and
of using blue paint for sacrificial sensed body in which all experience is
ceremonies: “the victim...having smeared embodied” (Tilley 2004:4), a move beyond
him with blue...they brought him up to the visual analysis, to one where the body and
round altar...and his officials had anointed the senses are considered, is essential to
the stone with a blue color” (Tozzer improving our knowledge of the ancient
1966:118). It is well documented that blue Maya.
was the colour associated with sacrifice for The framework proposed by
the ancient Maya (Sharer and Traxler Houston, Stuart and Taube (2006:134) has
2006:668). It has been suggested that body been used to illustrate that the ancient Maya
paint could have been applied using an body became active when it was adorned
organic pigment which could be removed and costumed. This affected bodily
with water, yet when mixed with resins movement in some cases, and perhaps even
stayed on a sweaty body (Houston, Stuart, resulted in actions of „habitus‟. A consid-
and Taube 2006:23). eration of the senses of sound, smell, and
It may be possible, as is suggested touch has illustrated that costume and
with tattooing and scarification, that the adornment affected more than one type of
practice of applying paint to the body was sensory experience, and may have been

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Tremain: Mobilizing the Body and the Senses
TOTEM 77

Figures 6 and 7.
(6: Left) Figurine with facial scarification from the site of Jaina, Mexico (Photograph
K2821 © Justin Kerr). (7: Right) Detail from ceramic demonstrating the application of
body paint. (Photograph K1373 © Justin Kerr).

created to be seen, heard, smelt, and Photographic Images


touched. Further studies will continue to
contribute towards this important aspect of Copyright of Justin Kerr at the Maya Vase
ancient Maya civilization, allowing a and Portfolio Database at www.famsi.org
„mobilization‟ of the ancient Maya from the
static images they left behind. Works Cited

Acknowledgments Adams, Sarah. 2007. Performing Dress and


Adornment in Southeastern Nigeria.
I am very grateful to Paul F. Healy In Dress Sense: Emotional and
for encouraging my research into this topic, Sensory Experiences of the Body and
and for his help and suggestions on the Clothes. Donald Clay Johnson and
initial manuscript. I also appreciate the help Helen Bradley Foster, eds. Pp.109-
of Maxime Lamoureux St-Hilaire and 120. Oxford: Berg.
Vanessa Launchbury, both of whom kindly
reviewed an earlier version of this article Akou, Heather Marie. 2007. More Than
and provided me with many useful Costume History: Dress In Somali
comments and suggestions. Lastly, I am Culture. In Dress Sense: Emotional
grateful to the Justin Kerr Maya Vase and Sensory Experiences of the Body
Database for allowing me to use their and Clothes. Donald Clay Johnson
images in this article. and Helen Bradley Foster, eds.
Pp.16-22. Oxford: Berg.
Notes
Anton, Ferdinand. 1970. Art of the Maya.
1
Robertson (1983:61) argued that this attachment Mary Whittall, trans. London:
might have been made from bone. Thames & Hudson.

TOTEM vol 19 2010-2011


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Produced by The Berkeley Electronic Press, 2011
Totem: The University of Western Ontario Journal of Anthropology, Vol. 19 [2011], Iss. 1, Art. 6
TOTEM 78

Arthur, Linda B. 1999. Introduction: Dress Graham, Ian. 1998. A Brief History of
and the Social Control of the Body. Archaeological Exploration. In
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