LESSON BLOUSES

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Identified and familiarized the different types of blouse for draping;
2. Acquired knowledge and skills in draping different blouse silhouettes.

LEARNING CONTENT

Early clothing is consisted of variations and layers of tunic-woven panels

wrapped and tied in ways particular to a certain region or tribe. In western culture,
these simple shapes evolved into the “peasant” smock, which use gathers and
combinations of square cut panels.

Late 14th century, panels were being cut and shaped into more elaborate
forms for men’s shirts. For women, the blouse don’t have an appearance until the
1860s, after the Italian revolutionary. The garment echoed a man’s shirt and was
cut from series of squares and rectangles fashioned from single piece of cloth with
no wastage.
After the concept of yoke was introduce, the shape of the shirt offered a
much more comfortable fit and became the precursor to the women’s blouse. In
1890s, shirtwaist was developed in response to the needs of a rising number of
women entering employment who required a new practical look.
In modern fashion, women’s blouse are among the complex cuts of
garments and are often beautifully detailed and embellished.

This shirt of a tartar women from

Nucha. It illustrates simplicity with the
early blouse that was traditionally
constructed. The ribbon trim, gold plaques
and coins at the hem exemplify the
elaborate ornamentation used in many
cultures.

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 Modern version of a peasant blouse, the same
cut as the historical one the Tartar women’s shirt. The
rectangular piece at the underarm is a folded square,
creating a gusset that allows for more movement of
the arms.

Draping the Blouse

Pleating, tucking and gathering are the techniques that gives volume and
movement to the skirts are the same that is used in the blouse to create and give
shapes needed to fit the curves of a woman’s shoulder, buts and waistline.

The outmost importance in blouse is the proportions as there are multiple

elements of design to coordinate. The height of the neckline, shape of the sleeve,
cut of the side seam, the sizing of the collar, cuffs and buttons must be coordinated
to keep the balance of the blouse.
The blouses are usually lightly fitted for comfort. The used of draping
construction elements such as the gathering and tucking are done with practical
sensitivity to the shape they are accommodating. The areas such as bust, top of
the arm, shoulder blades needed ease requires working away from the form as
opposed to fitting of it.
The modern blouse with fitted sleeve and curve armhole is the later
development in clothing. The combination of curves comprises a graceful and well-
fitting sleeve is complex but need to master. Sleeve is tend to be the focal point,
and frames the upper torso.

Understanding the basics sleeve patterns will help in mastering the draping
of sleeve. The following shown below are the three sleeves and armhole that
creates different effects.
Understanding the differences in curves and patterns will be helpful in
draping the sleeve. Understand how the curve and carving of the armhole the
functions of the dart in removing the fullness area.

Traditional African Daishiki

The sleeve and the body of this
traditional tunic are cut geometrically as
squares/rectangles. The fit is full and graceful.
Remember: The many folds of fabric
will result to the sleeves to fall to the side, and
it also gives the full freedom of movement is
possible.

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Classic Shirt
In the classic shirt, the
yoke absorbs some of the bust
and armhole ease. There are no
dart; it is loose fitting. Remember
how the curve in the sleeve cap
allows the wedge of fabric to be
cut away. There are still folds and
fullness at the udnerarm area, but
not that much as the daishiki. The arm can still be lifted fairly high.

Women’s Tuxedo Shirt

This slim-fitting women’s tuxedo
shirt has a front panel at the princess line
that absorbs buts ease, taking the place
of a dart. The sleeve cap is quite high, it
allows the underarm area to be closely
fitted. Remember that the additional
fabric that has been removed from the
sleeve pattern lower curve and with that, the folds at the underarm. However, the
lift of the arm is more limited.

Different Blouse Silhouettes

Peasant Blouse

In this peasant blouse, based on a jumpsuit from

the Moschino Spring/Summer 2008 collection, the front,
back, and sleeves are cut from rectangles that are
gathered around the neckline. The uniqueness of this
garment is in the play of its proportions. The elongated
front and back is accented by
the wide epaulets, cuffs, and
placket.

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Gibson Girl Blouse
The “ideal” American
woman of the 1900s was
created by artist Charles
Dana Gibson. The Gibson
Girl had an upright posture,
luxurious hair, and a tiny
waist. The classic version of
her blouse was a yoke style,
with buttons down the back,
puff sleeves, and a stand
collar. It was sold in more
than a hundred variations at the height of its popularity.

Bill Blass
This type of blouse strike a balance between the
masculine and the feminine. The tailored elements, the
collar and cuffs, reference the feel of a strong,
independent working woman, while the shape have a soft
femininity, the convertible collar frames the face and the
sleeve frame the torso; achieving the right proportions.
The focal point of the blouse is the exaggeration of
the sleeve.

Variations of Tunic Blouse with Bell Sleeve

This contemporary design is reminiscent of the
elemental tunic, combined here with a bell sleeve. While
ancient tunics were often loose fitting, this modern
version is fitted in the torso with darts. The bell sleeve
is slim fitting from shoulder to elbow and then gently
flares to the wrist in a bell
shape.

Mandarin Collar
The mandarin collar in Western clothing probably dates from the 1930s,
when there was a vogue for the Chinese cheongsam, a one-piece form-fitting
dress that is still prominent in Asian fashion. The style originated with the

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mandarins (civil servants) of Imperial China. The collar,
usually ½–2 inches (1.5–5 cm) in height, frames the
face as it follows the neckline around to the center front.

Peter Pan Collar

The Peter Pan collar made its appearance under
that name in the mid-1900s, named after the costume
worn by Maude Adams in the production of Peter Pan.
Similar collars were named for Little Lord Fauntleroy
and Buster Brown. The flat, round-cornered collar has
remained popular primarily in children’s clothing, but
periodically in contemporary fashion as well.
In this blouse from
Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter
2012 collection, a classic
Peter Pan collar contrasts
with a tight and tough leather
bodice.

Blouse with Peplum and Classic Bishop Sleeve

The elegant and sensual look of this wrap-
front blouse is created by the full volume of the
sleeve, the softly flared peplum, and the focal point,
a bias-cut silk georgette neckline that finishes in a
bow closure at the waist. The blouse is made of silk
crepe georgette, a lightweight, semi-sheer fabric
that has a beautiful, swingy, fluid drape.
The fit is achieved by released tucks at the
waistline and side seams that angle in at the waist.
A light shoulder pad
supports the weight of
the full “bishop” sleeve.
The peplum skirt
section is the same
basic cut as the bias
circle skirt.

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 REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-e187301311.html
February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-
making-e186946068.html February 10, 2021

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