The Greek Kitchen

Author(s): B. A. Sparkes
Source: The Journal of Hellenic Studies , 1962, Vol. 82 (1962), pp. 121-137
Published by: The Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies

Stable URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/628548

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN

(PLATES IV-VIII)

THE utensils which I am.going to describe and discuss in the following pages are the ordinary
utensils of Greek, mainly Athenian, households in the classical period; they have been
found in abundance, are not special articles and may therefore serve to furnish a fairly
complete picture of the classical batterie de cuisine. It is only in the last generation that
material has come to hand which enables us to venture some way to understanding the
methods of ancient Greek cooking. The Excavations of the Athenian Agora, in which
the majority of the cooking pots on PLATES IV-VIII have been found, have produced
evidence for the contents of Greek kitchens in most periods of Greek history, objects for the
most part thrown away when broken as the result either of public or of private sacrifices.1
Rarely, in contrast with Pompeii,2 are the contents of the kitchen found in the places where
they were used. Thus other evidence must be brought forward to supplement the archaeo-
logical, and this evidence is of two kinds: literary and artistic. Our literary knowledge of

This paper is a revised version of that read at the 1 Annual reports of the excavations appear in
Classical Association Meeting in Southampton on Hesperia. A number of deposits containing classical
April 13, i960. For the opportunity of studying cookingthe ware have also been published in Hesperia;
material from the Athenian Agora I am indebtedsee to especially iv (I935) 476-523 (Talcott), v (1936)
Professor Homer A. Thompson. The photographs 333-54 (Talcott), xviii (I949) 298-351 (Corbett),
of this material were taken by Miss Alison Frantz. xxii (1953) 59-ii5 (Boulter); also Agora Picture
I thank them both most sincerely. I am further Book no. i, Pots and Pans. Similar often closely
much indebted to the following museums for per- related material from the excavations of the American
mission to publish vases and terracottas in their care:School both at Corinth and on the Acropolis North
Staatliche Museen, Berlin; British Museum, London; Slope is likewise to be found in Hesperia, as will be
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Musees Royaux d'Art noted below. The full documentation for many of
et d'Histoire, Brussels; the Louvre, Paris; the the plain pots mentioned in this article has been
Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. provided by D. A. Amyx in his commentary on the
Attic Stelai, Hesperia xxvii (1958) 163-307, here
The following abbreviations have been used: referred to by the author's name alone. I have
Amyx. D. A. Amyx, 'The Attic Stelai: Vases andderived much help from his thoroughgoing study, as
other Containers', Hesperia xxvii (1958) 163-307. the text and notes will show. A catalogue of the
Blimner, TT. H. Bliimner Technologie und Termi- household and kitchen wares from the Athenian
Agora will be included in the presentation of the
nologie der Gewerbe und Kuiinste bei Griechen und R6mern
i-iv (1875-87); i, second edition (1912). black glazed and plain vases of the sixth, fifth an
fourth centuries, by B. A. Sparkes and L. Talcott, t
Cloche. P. Cloche, Les classes, les metiers, le trafic
(I93I). appear in the Athenian Agora series. The section o
Higgins, Catalogue. R. A. Higgins, Catalogue of plain wares is being prepared by Miss Talcott, wit
Terracottas in the British Museum i (1954). whom I have discussed the material presented her
Majewski, KMSG. K. Majewski, Kultura Mate- Detailed information as to dates, deposit evidence
rialna Staro'ytnej Grecji (1956). measurements, etc., will be found in that catalogu
Mollard-Besques, Catalogue. S. Mollard-Besques, All the Agora vases illustrated here belong to the
Catalogue Raisonni des Figurines et Reliefs en terre-cuite classical period, excepting only those indicated in th
Grecs, Etrusques et Romains i (1954). captions. The scale shown in the illustrations
Moritz. L. A. Moritz, Grain-Mills and Flour in measures 5 cm.
Classical Antiquity (1958). 2 A. Mau, Pompeii (Eng. ed. 1899) 260-2; Gusman,
Pornpei, The City, its Life and Art (Eng. ed. 19o6)
Picard, VP. C. Picard, La Vie privie dans la Grace
classique (1930). 279-80; A. Mau, Pompeji in Leben und Kunst2 (1908)
Schefold, Meisterwerke. K. Schefold, Meisterwerke 273-5; Thedenat, Pompei Histoire-Vie Privie (I9 io)
griechischer Kunst (1960). 95-8; B. Flower and E. Rosenbaum, Apicius: The
TEL. Encyclopddie Photographique de l'Art, LeRoman Cookery Book (1958) 29-38 (contributed by Miss
Musde du Louvre Editions TEL i-iii (1935-8). Joan Liversidge). For later Roman cooking utensils
Winter, Typen. F. Winter, Die Typen derfigiirlichen
found in Egypt, see AJA xxv (192I) 37-54 (Harcum)
Terrakotten (1903). and Archaeology viii (1955) 81.

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 122 B. A. SPARKES

Greek cookery is derived in the m

authors refer to cookery incidenta
changed little in antiquity, Latin a
serious, the comedians and the n
information to impart, but this is
present. The artistic evidence be
figure vases provide us with so
scenes on the vases are limited, and
the pounding of grain with a pes
shows 'splanchnopts' and the pre
terracotta figurines which show
A list, as complete as I can make it
to be found as an Appendix. The
one is of Mycenaean date (Appendix
these different bodies of materia
kitchen.
That tastes and appetites differed is continually mentioned by ancient authors, and
thus we must consider briefly what the Greeks ate before we can grasp the significance of
their utensils. The Spartans were abstemious, the Boeotians coarse and given to gluttony,

3 See T. R. Glover, The Challenge of the Greek (I943) Vom Tauschhandel zum Welthandel (1931) pl. 22.1;
'The Gastronomers' 131-54. Majewski, KMSG 390 fig. 409, 184; Parnicki-
4 Flower and Rosenbaum, op. cit. Pudelko, Agora (I957) 6I fig. 25; ABV 377: 247 The
- (i) Leningrad 206: Ber. Sdchs. 1867 pl. 1.4; Leagros Group; Attic b.f. oinochoe, c. 510o B.c.
Blumner, TT i 22 fig. I - i2 19 fig. 3; Daremberg (iii) Erlangen inv. 486: AM lxv (1940) pl. 2.2
and Saglio, s.v. 'Mortarium' 2oo8 fig. 5149; AM xli (Lullies); Rumpf, MuZ pl. 23.6; Griinhagen, Antike
(1916) 57 fig. II (von Massow); Cloche, pl. 9.2; Originalarbeiten der Kunstsammlung des Instituts (1948)
Bonnard, Greek Civilization from the Iliad to the Par- pl. 16; ARV 165: 16 The Syleus painter; Attic r.f.
thenon (I957) pl. 21; ABV 309: 95 The Swing painter; pelike, c. 490 B.c.
Attic b.f. neck-amphora, c. 550 B.c. (iv) Munich 2347: AM lxv (1940) pl. 2. I (Lullies);
(ii) Museum of Fine Arts, Boston 546 (inv. 13.205) : Rumpf MuZ pl. 23-7; Boeotian r.f. pelike, late
AJA xxiii (i919) 280 fig. IA (Fairbanks); Pfuhi, Mug archaic.
fig. 150; Fairbanks, Catalogue of Greek and Etruscan (v) Lugano, von Schoen: Lullies, Eine Sanmmlung
Vases i (1928) pl. 58; Mon. Piot xliii (I949) 42-9 griechischer Kleinkunst (1955) pl. 24.62; Attic r.f.
(Villard); Ionian b.f. lebes, c. 530 B.c. lekythos, c. 470 B.c.
(iii) Eleusis 1055: AM xli (1916) 58 fig. 13 (von (vi) Cefalui, Mandralisca Mus.: Dedalo vii (1926/7)
Massow) ; b.f. sherd. 402 and 408 (Rizzo); Cloche, pl. 36.2; AAN xii
(iv) Athens NM, CC 1927 (inv. 5815): AM xix (1932) 326 (Pace); D'Arcy Thompson, A Glossary
(1894) 346 (Koerte); Daremberg and Saglio, s.v. of Greek Fishes (I947) frontispiece; Pareti and Griffo,
'Histrio' 221 fig. 3860; Ausonia ii (I907) 173 fig. 25 Das antike Sizilien (n.d.) pl. 163; Bieber, The History
(Romagnoli); Bieber, Die Denkmidler zum Theater- of the Greek and Roman Theater (1961) io6 fig. 414;
wesen im Altertum (1920) pl. 87.1; Bieber, The History Campanian r.f. bell-krater, c. 350 B.c.
of the Greek and Roman Theater (I939) 92 fig. 136, (vii) Ars Antiqua i (i959) pl. 50.O1 1; Attic b.f.
(1961) 48 fig. 203; Trendall, Phlyax Vases (1959) 21 hydria, 500-490 B.C.
no. I4; Corinthian r.f. bell-krater, second quarter of 7 For the splanchnopts, see JdI xliv (1929) I 17-18,
the fourth century. esp. n. I (Schweitzer), JHS lix (1939) 16-17 and
(v) See n. 45, and PLATE VII 2. 20-22 (Beazley), CVA Bonn, text to pl. 34.Io
6 (i) Louvre E 635: Mon Inst vi pl. 33; Pottier, (Greifenhagen). For religious festivals, see a b.f.
Vases Antiques du Louvre i (1897) pl. 49; Daremberg hydria in the Villa Giulia (Ann. xxiv-xxvi, n.s.
and Saglio, s.v. 'Coena' 1270 fig. 1690; Swindler, viii-x (1946/8) 49 fig- I and pls. 3-6 (Ricci);
Ancient Painting (1929) fig. 203; Payne, Necrocorinthia Rumpf, MuZ pl. i5-5; Vighi, The New Museum of
(1931) no. 780; TEL ii 273D; Majewski, KMSG 212 Villa Giulia (1958) pl. 41; JHS lxxviii (1958) pl. 2a
fig. 225; Frel, 'Alecke Vdzy (1956) fig. 1oo; PLATE (Boardman)) and a fragmentary Attic b.f. volute
VIII 6; Corinthian column-krater, c. 600 B.c. krater in the Acropolis Collection, Athens 654a
(ii) Berlin i915: Gerhard, Auserlesene griechische (Graef, Die antiken Vasen von der Akropolis zu Athen i
Vasenbilder iv (I858) pl. 316.1 and 4; Dedalo vii pl. 42; BCH lxxix (i955) pl. 9 (Karouzou)).
(1926/7) 410o (Rizzo); Picard, VP pl. 5 . ; Schaal,

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 123
the Thessalians gourmets, the Sicilians gourma
simple tastes, conforming to foreign opinions
stop eating while still hungry and to starve in
nacious: bread, porridge and groats, but a great v
garlic, lentils, radish, beet and salads, since t
cheap.9 Fish, both fresh and pickled, such as C
and Pontic herring, provided the chief dish
became in classical times the gourmet's deligh
eaten less frequently, and the principal occasi
sacrifice,o0 but sausages, consisting of the gre
intestines and approximating more nearly to o
homes of rich and poor alike. Cheese and ol
boiled or eaten raw, honey was used for sweete
were highly esteemed.
For the Athenians, there were two types of fo
with bread, &bov. The latter could mean salt,
fish mainly, indicating the important place it
consider bread first, as Athenian loaves and ca
staple food of the Greeks, we must devote som
end of the fifth century bread could be bought
baker of that time.13 Evidence for communal bakeries would seem to exist for the sixth
century, for two terracottas (Appendix nos. I and 2) show groups of figures attending to
various processes of breadmaking. Nothing is known of these large bakeries, but we
have utensils for the baking of bread at home. Of first importance was a substant
bin for the storage of the meal (PLATE IV 1),14 holding either barley meal, made fr
KptLal, or wheat meal, made from wvpds.15 That it contained a cereal of some sor
evidenced by its inset lip shaped to receive a well-fitting lid to keep out the insect
wide base to prevent tipping and two vertical handles to facilitate lifting add to its usefuln
The main point to note, however, is that its material is terracotta, and certainly until
fourth century the majority of household utensils were made of clay. The argumentum ex
absentia for bronze cannot stand up against the multitudinous evidence provided by
Agora Excavations for the use of terracotta in the kitchen.16 Prices also indicate t

8 Spartans: Plut. de Esu Carn. i 5; de San. Tuend. 11 For 6oyov, see esp. Plato Rep. 372c and The
12. Boeotians: Pindar O. vi 90; Plut. de Esu Carn. Athenian Agora iii (1957) 194-5 (Wycherley).
i 6; Ath. ix 4Iod, x 417b-4i8b. Thessalians: 12 Lynkeus of Samos ap. Ath. iii Io9d, Antiphanes
Eriphos fr. 6 (Kock ii 430). Sicilians: Plato Rep. ft. 176 (Kock ii 83), Antiphanesfr. 179 (Kock ii 84).
4o4d; Aristoph. fr. 216 (Kock i 446); Ath. xii 518c. 13 Markets for bread: Aristoph. Vesp. 238, Ran. 858
Athenians: Euboulosfr. 9 (Kock ii 167); Plut. Symp.(Moritz, 34-5 notes that their existence appears not
iv 4.2, de San. Tuend. 9; Ath. iv 131. Greeks: Hdt. i to be known outside Athens. On the evidence of
133, vii o102; Antiphanesfr. 172 (Kock ii 81). Appendix nos. I and 2, they would seem to exist in
9For eating and eating habits, see Becker, Boeotia). Bakers: Xen. Mem. ii 7, 3 ff. Thearion:
Charicles (Eng. ed. 1895) 310-32 (Excursus I toAristoph. fr. I (Kock i 392), Plato Gorgias 518b,
scene VI, The Meals); T. R. Glover, The Challenge Antiphanes fr. 176 (Kock ii 83).
of the Greek (1943) 'Feeding the Athenians' 86-i10o; 14 Tub and lid: P 4864 and P I1787b. Amyx, pl.
R. J. Forbes, Studies in Ancient Technology iii (1955)
48a and 197 n. 75; pl. 48f and 205 n. 38 (the inven-
84-105; C. Singer, E. J. Holmyard, A. R. Hall and tory number there incorrectly cited as P 11007).
T. I. Williams, A History of Technology ii (1956)Some much larger examples of this same general type
1o3-46 (contributed by R. J. Forbes). For the are also preserved, cf. n. 22 below.
difference between Mycenaean and later diet, see 15 For the meaning of these words and of iApeta
TAPA lxxxix (1958) 44-65 (Howe) and BICS viii and devpa, see CQ xliii (i949) I3-17 (Moritz) and
(1i96) 15-22 (Richardson). For food in the BronzeMoritz, I49-50.
Age, see K. F. Vickery, Food in Early Greece (1936). 16 See the Hesperia articles quoted in n. I and Pots
10 Forbes, op. cit., 97-8 and see n. 7. and Pans, passim.

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 124 B. A. SPARKES

clay was cheap, bronze dear;17 and su

replaceable, although in the absence
were two different compositions of clay
texture used for finer wares, figured
version, often banded and with some va
and for mixing bowls, as PLATE V 2. T
kitchen fabric, or cooking ware, contai
touch and in Attica at least is more o
relatively water-tight and resistant to f
braziers, ovens and water-jars (PLA
some foodstuffs, such as olives and pick
number of days, as they would be bo
perhaps the types of jar for the pur
wine jar, though smaller in size, the
shape. The narrow neck could be s
smaller amounts of supplies, whether
table, open basins, a simple versio
(PLATE IV 3);20 their lids, not sho
bin (PLATE IV I). For this dry-storag
Amyx argues persuasively for this corr
tion.22 KvUE1q also has claims to att
beehive, part of a furnace)24 would sug
the coins of Kypsela show little connex

jar,
size the names
of the two J'~ubopEdl and cukopElsLov,
examples shown would suggest -drCLvos and am-cauvlov
diminutives.26 areopen
For the small all equally
basins, possible; the
the name AEKavcW suits.27

17 For the latest statement on pot prices, see
Amyx, 287-307, with full bibliography.
18 For items kept in the house, see, e.g., Aristoph.
Thesm. 419-21 (itjlQTov, Ratov, oivov) and 486
(Ke6p iag, Favv7Oov, caqdaKov.)
19 Jars: left, P 20801; right, P 6175.
20 Household lekanides: P 1100oo5, Hesperia xviii
(1949) 334, 88; Amyx, 205, n. 35; P 11004, Hesperia
xviii (1949) pl. 96.87; Amyx, 205, n. 35 and pl. 48 f.;
Pots and Pans, fig. 43; P Iioo6, Hesperia xviii (I949),
334, 89; Amyx, 205, n. 35.
21 Aristoph. Eq. 1296, Pl. 8o6,fr. 541 (Kock i 528).
22 Amyx, 195-7; for similar tubs from Corinth,
see Hesperia vi (1937) 302 fig. 34, 196-7.
23 Aristoph. Pax 631, and schol.; Suidas; Hesychius;
schol. ad Lucian Lex. 145.
24 P. N. Ure (Origin of Tyranny (1922) 199-207)
pointed out three possible representations of the
Kvpil as part of a furnace, two of which are (i) and
(ii) below; (iii) and (iv) are also closely connected.
(i) British Museum B 507: Picard, VP pl. 55-3;
Cloche, pl. 23.3 and 6; ABV 426: 9 The Keyside
Class; Attic b.f. oinochoe, late sixth century B.C.
(ii) Berlin F 2294: FR pl. 135; Buschor, Griechische
Vasenmalerei (1921) 178 fig. 128; Neugebauer,
Fiihrer durch das Antiquarium ii Vasen (1932) pl. 53;
Casson, The Technique of Early Greek Sculpture (I933)
fig. 52; Picard, VP pl. 56.1; Cloche, pl. 24 and
25. I ; Atlas of the Classical World 65 fig. 130; Greifen-
hagen, Antike Kunstwerke (I960) pl. 64; ARV 263.I
The Foundry painter; Attic r.f. cup, c. 490 B.C.
(iii) Oxford 518: JHS xxiv (1904) 305, above;
FR iii 81; Richter, Ancient Furniture (1926) fig. 102;
CVA Oxford i (iii) pl. 2 (94) 8; Cloche, pl. 23.5;
ARV 231: 22 The Antiphon painter; Attic r.f. cup.
c. 480 B.C.
(iv) Agora P 15210o: Van Hoorn, Choes and Anthe-
steria (195I) fig. 19.227; Webster, Art and Literature
in 4th century Athens (I956) pl. 2; Attic r.f. chous, late
fifthlxv
AJA century.
(1961) For
265 a(Kardara).
recent discussion of Kvy.gpi, see
25 For the coins of Kypsela (and the later coins of
Hebryzelmis, Cotys and Cersobleptes which adopted
the type), see HN2 257; BMC Thrace I Io and 202 ff;
May, Ainos (1950) 96 n. 2, and pl. Io. K I-3.
26 For the connexion of dcqpopev' and crdrivog, see
Richter and Milne, Shapes and Names of Athenian
Vases (1935) 8; BCH lxxix (1955) 365 figs. 37-8 and
Hesperia xxv (1956) 196 (a sekoma of the first century
B.C. found on Thasos); Amyx, 190-5. See now
further V. Grace, Amphoras and the Ancient Wine
Trade (Agora Picture Book no. 6, 1961).
27 Aristoph. fr. 805 (Kock i 578), Photius s.v.
EK&dvr). Another possible name is AeKaivtov: Aris-
toph. Ach. II10o and Schol., ad loc. See also Corbett,
Hesperia xviii (1949) 304-

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 125
For the preparation of the bread28 the cereal was
on the left of PLATE IV 4.29 Both lower stone and
dark, highly abrasive, volcanic stone, and the p
The lower stone is rectangular and thicker at on
direction of the flour, the grinder kneeling at the
helped in many cases by the marking of herrin
contact. The upper stone has a flat grinding su
stone gradually tapers to each end where it was
statuettes show the saddle quern in use31 and a sim
cotta (Appendix no. 24). Kneeling was, no doubt,
down one's whole weight to grind, but with some
grinding and kneading is difficult to draw (especia
the waist, PLATE VII 3, 4: Appendix nos. 25-6) and
to be standing (PLATE VIII I: Appendix no. 29, c
was, with the hopper-rubber developed from it,32
Greek classical period. Until recently,33 the pest
an alternative process to the quern. This now s
nomenclature and modern equivalents can perhaps
There are two sets of words which are concerned w
A'ETprptavos (Lat. pistillum) and OvEla or 'ty&g
pilum) and 0&Aos- (Lat. pila). The literary eviden
combination as is shown on the right of PLATE IV
object36 and abundant quantities of hemispherical s
been found.37 The OVEla could be round and of sto
adjectives points to a need for them; they would
shape and material. The OVEla was used for a var
hold object.38 The shallow bowls shown, heavily bu
mould-made, and were most commonly manufac
on the basic shape, some without handles and spout
provided with both. The floor is often covered w
surface. At times the OvEla seems to have appr
possibly a variety of the OVEla that is at the feet of
(Appendix no. 56). The second set of words are ea
and mortar. 01rEpov was a long implement, nar
most naturally be wood, though other substances a
sented, and on a red-figured cup in the Louvre dep

28 For all problems of milling and related

34 Now subjects
certainly v"nepov; see Am
I have found L. A. Moritz, Grain-Mills and Flour in
35 Grinding-bowls: P 15206; P
Classical Antiquity (1958) of
fig.very
35, great
right.value. The
Grinders: ST 2
following paragraphs have been saved from many
errors by his common sense.ST 552, ST 554, ST 641, ST 65I.
36 Schol. ad Aristoph. Eq. 984;
29 Quern: ST 243. Grinder: ST 588.
6bobv$ ai$et (Zenob. Prov. 3.40).
30 For other examples see37 Hesperia Suppl. iv
See, e.g., Dionna, Dilos xvii
(1940) 25-8, and 43-4 and 38
fig. o104 Aristoph.
Round: (Thompson);
Nub. 676,
Robinson and Graham, Excavations at Olynthus viii
Aristoph.
(1938) 326-7 and pl. 79; Deonna, Pl.
Dilos 7Io, (1938)
xviii and see Moritz
123-9 and pls. 48-9. 39 Hesperia xxiii (1954) 109-
31 E.g., the figures shown in Moritz, pl. Ia and
(Weinberg), and see Deonna,
pl. 2a. 1 o9-14. See also Appendix nos.
32 See Moritz, ch. vii. 40 Hesiod, Op. 423.
33 See Moritz, ch. vi. 41 Amyx, 239.

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126 B. A. SPARKES

Andromache who herself swing

the narrow waist and thrust ver
is found represented on many
are naturally of stone, wood wo
shape which demanded a deep
II. xi 147 has been well explain
of wood with a hole sunk dow
possession of Mrs Serpieri45 give
figured Boeotian lekythos, of t
'geometricising'. The three scen
the first and, by its size and pos
with the pestle and mortar. Th
were not used for the grinding of
must not be automatically connec
purposes, since dried fish, peas, b
figures between the women and t
we know that the flute at least w
of a group of people had to be c
pounding be maintained. The f
two main figures and is standin
and her attitude could signify
figure is the well-known Rhodian
Appendix no. 26). This jointed
backwards and forwards along
having disappeared, so we have
for grinding or with a lump of d
KapoTros- or 14dKTpa.48 The kne
could be made of stone, wood o
article (Appendix nos. 35-53).49
gress with a satyr resting a bowl

from the where

42 For vase representations Tomba Go
the
as a pestle, see n. 5; for other
Paintings represen
(1922) fig.
mythological, see Moritz, 31 and
JdI xxiii nn. 2
(I9o8) 7
(Kropatscheck), and Amyx,
48 Amyx, 238 nn
239-41.
Louvre cup between
152: Pottier,the
is Gstande
Vases Anti
iii (1922) pl. 121; which
FR pl. appear
25; Pfuhl, Mu
in succe
Pfuhl, Masterpieces 49 of
TheGreek Drawing
fact that at
(1926) pl. 36; REG xlix
ness of(1936) pl. 7, fi
the KapiO7tno
18B; Recueil Charles
was Dugas (196o0)
not always thepl
s
The Brygos painter.
and sarcophagus as
43 For mortarsCPh see iv
Deonna, Dilos
(1909) 203-4
103-7; Robinson and
162-5Graham, Olynth
(Chantraine);
335-6 and pl. 79; sentation
Amyx, 235-8; Morit
of a kneadi
44 Eranos xliv (1946) 54-5
cottas see (Palmer).
two early
45 The lekythos is published by kind p
Louvre CA 936, Ath
Mrs Serpieri. Mrs A. D. Ure
replicas first
from thebro
sa
to my notice, generously lent
(Versakis); AEme her
1917,
and supplied me with information
Les Vases Grecs aabo
re
fabric. For theterm 'geometricisin
fig. 56; AJA xli (i
MuZ i 207; JHS 'Reckd
xlix (1929)
Vdzy i60-71,
(1956) f
227-8 (Ure). mann, Hell. Reliefbe
46 Moritz, 24 and 50
nn. 5-8 ad8/4583:
UCMA loc. A
47 See the terracotta, Appendix
The Geras painter no.
(A
kneading to the flute: Ath. xii 5 i8b
Graef-Langlotz, an
i pl.

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 127
cLaa in a UKdJ#Y, but the words K'p oiros, IKc-rpa,
closely related.51 The problem to decide for the lekyt
would omit the grinding or the kneading from his
badly at this side, and one would like to know wha
painting that remains to be a dog, and such animals w
room. For, in the absence of table napkins, small
used, on which the diners wiped their fingers. Thi
dogs, and indeed these pseudonapkins were called KUV
dog'. Perhaps we should consider the animal depic
balance this picture, there is, on the other side of th
hardest process in breadmaking-the actual baking.
the oven, set on legs, was doubtless of clay, the fire k
to ensure that the heat remains constant. The baker (
figure is male or female) is seated in front of the ov
Ovens of this type are common amongst terracott
one of the finest specimens (PLATE VIII 4:
Appendix no. I5), of the early fifth century,
closely resembles the illustration on the lekythos.
Naturally there are variations in the structure,
as can be seen by comparing PLATE VIII 2 and
FIG. I (Appendix nos. 7, 20) with PLATE VIII 4
(Appendix no. 15). It is unsafe, however, to
draw too definite conclusions about details from
what are essentially slight products of a minor
craft. Actual specimens of ovens very closely
akin to these have been found, and it can
readily be seen that the oven on PLATE V 154
has the same basic components for the upper FIG. i. London 564.
part, which is separate, whilst the whole is
portable. Mobility is a marked characteristic of Greek cooking equipment. The cover
has the remains of a floor preserved in the left-hand corner at the back and the
drawings in FIG. 2 indicate how the oven was heated. Since the charcoal was placed in the
shallow receptacle under the floor of the oven, a slit was left at the back, and the floor was
not flush with the edge of the base at back or front, enabling a draught to be maintained
under it. By this means it approximated to the more common type of four-legged oven
described above. A likely name for this type of oven is r7Tvds;55 the purpose of the lrVds,
in its main sense, was for baking, and the presence of a small figure on a terracotta in Vienna
(Appendix no. 16) and the fragmentary remains of one in the Louvre (Appendix no. 8)
might connect the shape with the mention of l7Mds and e1TLUdLa-r-7S at Aristophanes Aves 436
(and Schol., ad loc.).56

51 Schol. ad Aristoph. Nub. 669 translates Kadpono7g Pots and Pans fig. 37. For bread, see Eranos Vindo-
by aKaq'itov; Schol. ad Aristoph. Pl. 545 translates bonensis 1893, 372 ff. (Benndorf), dated but still
useful.
1a'Irpa by aKda(p and Ovela tsnt~icKg; Aristoph.fr. 417
(Kock i 500) mentions cKaqgida and p~airpaq together 55 Hdt. v 92 r, Aristoph. Av. 436, Pl. 815, Anti-
and aKriqr is mentioned a number of times in con- phanesfr. 176 (Kock ii 83).
nexion with kneading: EM 803; Pollux i 245, vi 64, 56 Another representation of a small figure, here
vii 22. Pollux i 245 gives Ovia as a synonym for at a kiln, is to be seen on a fragmentary Corinthian
Kdpbonog. b.f. pinax in Berlin (frr. 683, 757, 822, 829: AD ii
52 Aristoph. Eq. 413-I6; Pollux vi 93. pl. 39.I2; Festschrift fiir Otto Benndorf (1898) 75
53 Polemon fr. 77, Preller ap. Ath. ix 409d; (Pernice); Harrison, Prolegomena to the Study of Greek
Pollux vi 93; Hesychius s.v. Religion (1903) 191, fig. 31).
54 Oven: P I4165. Brazier: P 2116. Both:

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 128 B. A. SPARKES

a , /0 CMr

FIG. 2. Agora PI41I65 and P 2116.

A simpler method of baking used a dome-shaped c

name being 7rvLyEVS.58 In Latin the name was testu,
for making bread: manus mortariumque bene lavato. farin
addito subigitoque pulchre. ubi bene subegeris, defingito c
this was done was as follows. A space on the floor was
coals set down. The baking cover was placed over th
the inside of the cover was hot enough, it was raised
to the warm floor was set the dough and the cover f
placed underneath the dough. The coals were then h
(traces of burning can be seen on the right-hand spe
to bake.60

Not all bread was baked. For the poorer classes there was jxaga, a dough made from
barley meal, compounded with honey, salt and oil.61 Barley is a cereal, the husks of which
cannot be removed by ordinary threshing and, before the removal of the husks, the grain
has to undergo a roasting process. PLATE IV 6, right62 shows what may have been the
utensil for the purpose at home. It is a shallow dish with a handle in the shape of a loop
into which the thumb is inserted, the fingers of the hand spreading out on the underside.
The name for this utensil was perhaps qpvyETrpov or barley-parcher, and, as beans were also
roasted, a similar utensil, called aElowv, would be used for them.63 The kneading of the
dough and other types of mixing were done in large bowls (PLATE V 2).64 They have a
capacious body, two horizontal handles and a stout foot. The glaze which covers the inside
of the bowls is a sure indication that they were used for liquids as well as solids; also the

was seen at Loutsa on the east coast of Attica. It

57 Baking covers: P 10133; P 8862, Pots and Pans
fig. 36. was there used for cooking meat, being hung ove
58 Aristoph. Nub. 96 and Schol. ad loc.; cf. Av. Ioo I a dug-out hollow filled with coals.
and CQ xxxi (1937) 25 (Wycherley). 61 Moritz, xxi-xxii and 150 with refs. ad locc.
59 Or testum: Cato R.R. 76. 2, 76. 4, 84. 2, Pliny 62 Barley-parcher: P 4462, Pots and Pans fig. 4
xxx 39; tegula: Ovid Fasti vi 316; testa: Seneca left, at back.
Ep. xc 23. 63 ppvyerpov: Polyzel. fr. 6 (Kock i 791); Pollux i
60 This method of baking is still found today in 246. addawv: Alexis fr. 134 (Kock ii 345); Axionicus
the Balkans (The Listener Ivi, no. 1435 (September 27, fr. 7 (Kock ii 415); Pollux vii 18I; Hesychius s.v.
1956) 464-5). In the summer of 1959, a metal 64 Lekanai: P 25757, Pots and Pans fig. 22, right;
object, the shape of which was that of the rtVtye8e,P 13016; P 6151.

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 129
middle specimen is furnished with a lip for pour
their uses were myriad: sick-bowl, wash-basin, w
container for food.65
We have noted that most of the utensils connected with breadmaking were portable;
even the oven need not in every case be a fixed item. The natural conclusion to draw
from this fact is that the word 'kitchen', when applied to ancient Greek homes, indicates
less location than function, and when we turn from breadmaking and examine the other
methods of cooking, this conclusion is reinforced. To cook by dry heat-to grill, fry or
roast-was O-rr"v,66 and, if we remove the top from the portable baking oven (PLATE V I),
we have the most common type of brazier, the daXdpa (PLATE V 3).67 To the right of the
square brazier is shown a round specimen which would seem to be less suitable for the
double duty performed by the square one. The shallow receptacle, as we noted above,
received the coals, and on the lugs at the sides rested spits for holding small fish or pieces
of meat in the manner of modern Greek oovAfladKa or kebabs. The handles are a promi-
nent feature, and most braziers show, from the considerable traces of burning on them,
that they were subjected to hard wear. Closely allied to the brazier is the grill (PLATE V 5),68
round or square, provided with a handle for hanging when not in use and supplied with
four feet to allow small lumps of charcoal underneath. These grills would be placed
straight over the coals, or, if there was a need for them to be portable, across the top of
the brazier or in a flat-bottomed pan which would contain the coals (PLATE V 5, below).
The greater amount of burning on the inside of the pan suggests that it was more normally
used for this purpose, but it could naturally be used separately. -rdyl-vov is suggested as the
correct term for it.69 A simple fan or tCwls70 was used to help the flame, as the area and
amount of coals would necessarily be small, and the terracotta on PLATE VIII 5 (Appen-
dix no. 21), of the early fifth century, shows a man tending a grill with a large square mat
in his left hand, to waft the flames (cf. Appendix no. 23)-

To boil
common in and
laterstew was IOv,71
centuries. There awere
typetwo
of sources
cookingfor
notthe
known
water:inthe
thefountain
Homeric poems
and the but
courtyard well. Both had their special jar (PLATE V 7):72 the v6plca, or KJArSt, 73 for the
fountain, with one vertical handle for carrying when empty, two horizontal side-handles
for hoisting the full jar on to one's head, and the Kco0s,"4 to which a bail-handle and rope

65 Amyx, 202-5, where the references are given.229 fig. 254 and pl. 630, of lead, and see ibid., 228
The lekane is frequently represented on vases (e.g., nn. 6-7 for refs.).
Pots and Pans figs. 12, 19 and 21), but has usually 69 Ta'yvov: Aristoph. Eq. 929; Plato Com. fr. 173
been described as a krater.
(Kock i 646); Euboulosfr. o09 (Kock ii 203) and cf.
66 drrdv: Hdt. i 19, ix 120; Aristoph. Av. 1690,Ath. vi 228d.
fr. 627 (Kock i 548); Euboulosfr. 120 (Kock ii 207)-
70 pe"g: Aristoph. Ach. 669, 888; Euboulos fr. 75
67 Escharai: P 2116 (see n. 54), P 2362, Hesperia iv(Kock ii 190).
(1935) 515 fig. 27, 82; Amyx, 230 n. 94. The v71 gesv: Hdt. i 48, i I I9, iv 61; Aristoph. Vesp.
239, 280, Ec. 845-
evidence for applying the name oa)dpa to this shape
is set out by Amyx, 229-31. 72 Hydria: P 20558, Pots and Pans fig. 15, right.
68 Rectangular grill, P 26165 and circular grill,Kados: P 1207.
P 26166: both, Pots and Pans fig. 45; Hesperia xxviii 73 66pla and Kdnulg are interchangeable, see
(1959) pl. 22e and I00, n. 21. Frying-pan, P 21945:Aristoph. Lys. 328, 358, 370. 66pia appears retro-
Hesperia xxii (1953) pl. 36.119; Pots and Pans fig. 40 grade on the Francois vase (ABV 67: I). See
right, at back. No satisfactory name has, as yet, F61zer, Die Hydria (1906) passim; Richter and Milne,
been found for the grill. yaorpdnrr7g, suggestedShapes and Names of Athenian Vases (1935) 11-12;
by Amyx, 232, is a doubtful candidate. Perhaps Amyx, 200-I and refs. ad loc.
this too was an eschara. Other grills are: Agora 74 Kddog: Aristoph. Ec. 10oo2-4; Men. Dysk. 90,
P 8305 (Amyx, pl. 49d), one from Olympia (E.
576, 582, 626. See RA 1933 i 154-62 (Philippart);
Kunze and H. Schlief, IV Bericht iiber die Aus- Caskey and Beazley, Attic Vase-Paintings in the Museum
grabiingen in Olympia 1940-41 (1944) 103 figs. 87-8, of Fine Arts, Boston ii (1954) 34-6; Amyx, 186-90.
one from Delos, B 3879 (Ddonna, Delos xviii (1938) Amyx, 188-9, notes the absence of the kados from
VOL. LXXXII F

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 130 B. A. SPARKES
were attached for lowering down the well.
of water simple jugs (PLATE VI 2)75 wer
water was heated was the XVrTpa (PLATE V
Besides its use as a kettle, the chytra also
were boiled (Appendix nos. 66-70).78 Th
set in some heating device. These were v
the largest terracotta heater (PLATE V 6)
bottom ensures a draught and brushwood
Such a large brazier would naturally take
and more numerous pots were accommodat
show a convenient arrangement.80 Slight
towards the top and are provided with
horizontal tabs protruding inwards to supp
ends to grip it. They were pushed towar
burning on the side away from the hand
Its history can be traced back to early H
shape,81 its simplicity and usefulness ens
is an individualist, demanding no assistan
and flanged to receive a lid. Again the sh
Mycenaean times,82 but the arrangement
to housewives accustomed to the more flexible combination of casserole and brazier. For
stewing one needs a covered vessel, and this requirement is fulfilled by the cass
o'rrgO83 (PLATE VI 3).84 On the left we have one which forms a bridge between the
and the more normal lopas. It has vertical handles at the rim and a deep round
like the chytra, yet the offset lip and the mouth fashioned for a lid relate it to t

(1904) 307; CVA Oxford i (iii) pl. 26 (118) 2-3;

Agora deposits of the later fifth and fourth centuries,
ARV 323: 5 Early work of Hermonax?; Attic r.f.
and suggests that this may be due to a more extensive
use of metal vessels, which have not survived. Therec. 470 B.C.
stamnos,
is no real evidence to this effect, however, and 78
little
Aristoph. Eq. 1174, Av. 78, Ran. 983, Ec. 1092,
to suggest that bronze pots were a significant part683, 686;fr. 591 (Kock i 542).
Pl. 673,
of the normal equipment of the average household 79 Barrel
of cooker: P 17822. Chytra: P 18532.
classical Greek times. The absence of waterBoth:potsPots and Pans fig. 44, centre.
80 Chytra and cooking-stand: P 23189, Pots and
from Agora well-fillings of the later fifth and fourth
centuries seems more probably due to the fact Pansthat
fig. 40, second from right. P 8396, Hesperia
few 'use-fillings' of this period have been dug, and
Suppl. ii 191 fig. 141, C 165 (Young); The Athenian
those very scanty. Agora viii, Late Geometric and Protoattic Pottery, pl. I 1.2 II
75 Jug: P 23184. (Brann). Tripod-casserole: P 137 I0. Chytra and
76 Chytrai (in order of size): P 21947, Hesperia
cooking-stand: P 25007 and P 25008. Both: Hes-
peria
xxii (1953) pl. 35.115; Amyx, pl. 48h and 212, n. xxv
88. (1956) pl. I7b; Pots and Pans fig. 42.
P 20813, Pots and Pans fig. 40, left. P 24913.
81 See Studies presented to D. M. Robinson i (1951)
I06-7 and pl. 3c-d (Harland); and Mylonas, Aghios
P 23188, Pots and Pans fig. 62. P 24864. P I9845.
77 XrTpa: the word is painted on a chytra Kosmasin(I959) figs. 172-3-
Corinth, C 48-65: Hesperia xviii (i949) pl. i6.15 82 and
Tripod cooking pots are well known in
I6, right (Weinberg; name read by Lang); Amyx, Mycenaean contexts: see, e.g., those from the North
21 1-12. It is represented twice on red-figured Slope of the Acropolis, Hesperia viii (1939) 398-9
vases:
fig. 8 1 (Broneer). It is difficult to tell in some of the
terracottas
(i) Warsaw Nat. Mus. inv. 142290: Gaz.(e.g.,Arch.
Appendixix
nos. 66 and 67) whether
(1884) pls. 44-6; de Witte, Description des
the legs on whichCollections
the pots stand are separate or
d'antiquitds conservees d l'Hdtel attached.
Lambert (1886) pl. 22;
Cook, Zeus i (1914), 424 fig- 305; 83 Amyx, 197
Picard, VP n. pl.
74, 210 n. 76 and pl. 49e. That
15-3;
Daremberg and Saglio, s.v. 'Dios Kodion' 265 the lopas had a lid is suggested by the combination
fig. 2450, s.v. 'Lustratio' 141o fig. 4686; CVA Golu-of the word nvywo with it at Aristoph. Vesp. 51 I.
chow (i) pl. 32 (32) 3a; ARV 376: 62 The Leningrad 84 Lopas and variants: P 8875, Archaeology x (1957)
painter; Attic r.f. hydria, c. 460 B.c. 193. P 13564. P 25771, Pots and Pans fig. 39,
(ii) Oxford 521: AdI 1865 pls. P-Q; JHS xxiv right.

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 131
proper. The two specimens on the right give the
basically similar: rounded but shallow body, off
zontally and rising to the level of the rim whic
which is to be seen on the right-hand pot (and se
as it is not pierced right through the wall of the
set on the body makes the explanation that it was f
cases the spout is vertical. Where it is pierced t
for steam; where there is no opening the explana
being a socket to receive a wooden stick, when th
The round bottom again betrays a stand for the
perform this function admirably (PLATE VI 5).8
easy to understand: the charcoal was placed insi
through the stoke-hole; openings in the wall of t
set either on a rim shaped to receive it, or on small
the draught. Handles were attached to the braziers,
Variations on these semi-cylindrical and cylindrica
classical period. In Hellenistic times the common
container for coals made in one with a substantia
the simple studs the rim is provided with rectangul
of satyrs, whose beards jut out to form the resting
draught is made by holes or slits in the bottom of t
of the stand.87 To the Roman period, dating from
the utensil on the right of PLATE VI 6.88 The simpl
which is furnished with feet. A heap of coals cou
and moved into the half cylinder when required
out of the brazier when there was no more use for
serve as a base for pots which were to be kept w
as the whole dish is portable, but the ends of the h
to ensure that the pot sits securely. To illustrate
further, the two braziers on PLATE VI 489 give us t
on the left is of the classical period, and we have se
right is of recent manufacture from the island of S
of the classical brazier with the stand and bowl of th
We have now discussed most of the terracotta u
classical Greek kitchen. What else can we add?
and bronze, were used, though wooden ones are o
cotta ones are rare, and bronze ones seem to have be
85 Lopades and braziers: Deep
Pottery lopas,
of the Roman Period, P 21948,
Chronology (1959) 34-5 and
Hesperia xxii (1953) pl. 36.112.
pl. 38. G I23Brazier,
(Robinson). P 21958,
89 Classical
Hesperia xxii (1953) pl. 36.123; brazier: P I9598.xThe
Archaeology modern
(1957)
197; Amyx, pl. 49b and 230, brazier
n.is housed
96. in the Stoa of Attalos;
Shallow lopas,cf. JdI xii
P 14655. Brazier, P 16521. Both: Pots and Pans (1897) 162 fig. 2; Antiquity xii (1938) 470 and pl. 4,
fig- 44, left. right.
86 Hellenistic brazier: P 7039. The handles have 90 Only metal ladles have been studied, see
been restored wrongly and should curve inwardsJournal of the Walters Art Gallery v (1942) 40-55, with
more tightly. full notes (Hill). The usual name was KGaOog, and
two ladles have incised on them, one of the fifth
87 For a discussion of this type of brazier, see
century in K6nigsberg (inv. F 28: Lullies, Antike
JdI v (1890) I18-41 (Conze); JdI vi (1891) 11o-24 Kleinkunst in Kiinigsberg Pr. (I937) pl. 3i.i92) the
(Furtwdingler); JdI viii (1893) 218-29 (Mayer);
name KaeOo, the other in private possession in
BCH xxix (i905) 373-404 (Mayence); Hesperia iiiAmerica, of the third century (AJA xlvii (I943)
(934) 420-I and 466-8 (Thompson). 209 ff.) the name Kv'aOog. See also, Robinson,
88 Roman brizier: P i4122, The Athenian Agora v,
Olynthus x (i94i) i94-8 and pl. 50 with refs.

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 132 B. A. SPARKES
PLATE VII 191 shows a terracotta ladle,
handle-the regular practice, and it also
mouthed oil-jugs. The black-glazed pair
kitchen articles; the two on the right p
to the left, looking startlingly like a mo
mouth will now allow liquid to be poure
stopped with cork or sponge; its similarity
larity of purpose. Strainers (q0'6ol) (PLA
especially being produced in a variety of m
in any great numbers, and those that have
most part of later Greek times, though th
The cheese grater (rvpdKlrfOTrts), whic
Appendix no. 56, was a flat, perforated
copper have also been found) with a handle
like funnels, seem to have been dispens
bread acted as a spoon, and fingers were
however, a cleaver (tcicXapa) would be ne
column-krater of the early sixth centur
assistant holding a piece of meat between t
hand ready to chop the meat.
Details of the classical Greek house are no
assist in clarifying the rather dim pictu
trace of a fixed hearth or kitchen, though
fourth century kitchens were becoming co
briefly described above, show that the searc
features is unlikely to prove very fruitful
well as the pots, to be set in a corner or hu

APPENDIX

I have tried to arrange this list in gro

not always been strictly possible, as som
91 Ladle and jugs: above,
Etruscan and RomanP 18899,
Bronzes P Museum
in the Metropolitan 4739,
of Art (1915)
P 19701; centre, ladle, 236-7, no. 665;
P Ioo82 +Beazley
24190;and Magi, belo
P 12785, P 2361, Hesperia iv (1935)
Raccolta Guglielmi 494,
(I939) 213 ff., no.
nn. 86-8, 75.
pl. 63 and
92 The modern term, askos, has no ancient bibl.; Robinson, Olynthus x (1941) I98 and pl. 50
justification. See, for the finer ones, AJA xxv (1921)and see text for list of others. A representation of
325-36 (Beazley), for all shapes, AA 1929 cols. this implement can be seen on a red-figure stamnos,
235-66 (Waldauer), and for the larger and coarserBerlin 2188 (Jacobsthal, Ornamente griechischer Vasen
ones, Hesperia iv (1935) 495, 75 and 512 (Talcott). (1927) pl. 96a; Neugebauer, Fiihrer durch das Anti-
93 Strainer: P 16387, Amyx, pl. 49g and 262, n. 46.quarium ii Vasen (1932) pl. 57; ARV 192: I The
94 Journal of the Walters Art Gallery v (1942) 40-55
Hephaisteion painter; early fifth century B.C.).
(Hill); Amyx, 259-64; Moritz, 159-63. 98 See n. 6(i); for other representations of cleavers,
95 Amyx, 255-9. The three representations aresee n. 6(ii)-(vi) and Appendix no. 65.
mentioned by Amyx, 258-9. 99 For a good general resume of knowledge up to
96 ZvpdKvr}Z1tg: Aristoph. Vesp. 938, 963, Av.1938, see RE Suppl. vii cols. 224-78 (Robinson).
1579, Lys. 231-2, fr. 7 (Kock i 394); Pollux x 104. What can be done with small evidence, modern
See Appendix nos. 54 and 56 for representations. analogies and sound surmise is shown in BCH lxxx
Jacobsthal (AM lxii (1932) 1-7) collects some actual (1956) 483-506 (Svoronos-Hadjimichaelis) on chim-
cheese graters. See also Robinson, Olynthus x (1941) neys and kitchens.
191-4 and pls. 48-9. 100 For the use of walls, shelves and cupboards,
97 For meat-hooks (ancient name KpEaypat, seesee AJA xlix (I945) 513 (Amyx) and Collection
Schol. ad Aristoph. Eq. 772), see Richter, Greek, Latomus xxviii (I957) 420 ff. (Richter).

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 133
some, though only depicting one subject, may be
the grinding and kneading figures. As for date
given below have been taken from the publicat
sensible remarks about date, see Ann. xxiv-vi
about place of manufacture, see Corinth xv, par
terracottas I know only from published photograph

Bakehouses (1-5)
These have been put together to show the exist
most important are nos. I and 2. Amyx gives ph
drawings are needed to clarify the details. No. 3 giv
although restored in parts, the flute player at the
As noted above, it is not always possible clearly to
In the case of no. 3, however, the position of the h
being applied.
I. Athens NM 4431: AE pl.
1896 pl.II 11.2
6; AE 1924, I; Cloche,(Kourou-
pl. 35.2; Bossert and
Zschietschmann,
niotis); Winter, Typen 34.2; Hellas and Rome
Bliimner, TT2I43, below;
i 62TEL ii
fig. 24; Majewski, KMSG 203 I72A;fig.
Besques-Mollard,
212; Amyx, Tanagra (1950)
pl. fig. 2;
5oa;
Argive, middle of the sixth Ehrenberg,
century. The People of Aristophanes2 (195I) pl. I Ib;
2. Athens NM 5773: AE Mollard-Besques, 1896 pl. Catalogue i pl. 15; Majewski,
I I.I (Kourou-
niotis); Winter, Typen 34-3; KMSGDaremberg
202 fig. 21o; Atlas of and Saglio,
the Classical World (1959)
s.v. 'Pistor' 495 fig- 5694; Blumner, TT2late
64 fig. I23; from Thebes, i sixth
69 century.
fig. 29;
Majewski, KMSG 203 fig. 211; Amyx, pl. 50ob; 4. Munich, Loeb collection: Sieveking, Terra-
Argive, c. 525 B.c. kotten der Sammlung Loeb i (i916) pl. 3; Majewski,
3. Louvre BII6: RA 3rd series xxxiv (1899) I I KMSG 201 fig. 209; Corinthian (?), sixth century.
fig. 8; BCH xxiv (1900) pl. 9.I (Pottier); Daremberg 5. From the Argive Heraeum: Waldstein, The
and Saglio, s.v. 'Pistor' 496 fig. 5695; Pottier, Argive Heraeum ii (I905) 43 fig. 86. 279; Argive (?),
Diphilos et les modeleurs de terres cuites grecques (I9O9) archaic.

Ovens (6-20)
These differ only in details. No. 6 has a lid by the side of the oven, no. I8 has a lid
resting on top. No. io is unusual, as the oven is set on a larger base which accommodate
a table as well. Many of the figurines have small bowls by the side of the oven, perhap
for holding the cakes when done.
6. Copenhagen, Danish NM 156 (inv. 4829): 10. Lugano, Dr Hans Freiherr von Schoen col-
lection: Neugebauer, Antiken in deutschem Privatbesitz
Winter, Typen 263; Breitenstein, Catalogue of Terra-
cottas, Danish National Museum (I94I) pl. 17; Majew- (I938) pl. 40.96; Lullies, Eine Sammlung griechischer
ski, KMSG 209 fig. 218; from Thebes, early sixth Kleinkunst (1955) pl. 53.129; Schefold, Meisterwerke
century. 184, no. 192; Boeotian, late sixth century.
7. Brussels, Musees Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire, SI. Athens, private collection: AE 1898 pl. 13.I;
inv. 2164: Verhoogen, Guide Sommaire pl. 2b; PLATE from Thebes, early fifth century.
VIII 2; Boeotian, late sixth century. 12. Athens, private collection: AE 1898 pl. 13.2;
8. Louvre Bi 17: Heuzey, Les Figurines antiques de from Thebes, early fifth century.
terre cuite du Muse'e du Louvre (1883) pl. 39.I; Huish, 13. From Megara: Sotheby Sale Catalogue 19 June
Greek Terracotta Statuettes (I900) I8 fig. 4; Pottier, 1961, no. 124; c. 500 B.C.
Diphilos et les modeleurs de terres cuites grecques (I909) 13A. Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum inv.
pl. 6; Blimner, TT2 i 70 fig. 30; Cloche, pl. 30.1; V. 1814: unpublished; BSA xiv (1907/8) 297 n. 12;
TEL ii 173G; Mollard-Besques, Catalogue i pl. 15; Boeotian, late sixth century.
Majewski, KMSG 211 fig. 224; from Tanagra, late 14. Auction Basle MM x (I95I) no. 363; Boeotian,
sixth century. c. 500 B.C.
9. Munich, Loeb collection: Sieveking, Terra- 15. Berlin, Staatliche Museen inv. 31.644: Berliner
Museen lvii (1936) 25 (Neugebauer); Pots and Pans
kotten der Sammlung Loeb i (1916) pl. 4.2; Bossert and
Zschietschmann, Hellas and Rome 220, bottom; fig. 38; PLATE VIII 4; Boeotian, early fifth century.
Majewski, KMSG 209 fig. 219; Boeotian, late sixth16. Vienna, private collection: Winter, Typen
century. 35.Io; Boeotian (?), early fifth century.

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 134 B. A. SPARKES
19.Typen
17. Berlin 7684: Winter, Athens NMfrom
35.12; 12992:
Varu
early fifth century. late sixth century.
20. Typen
I8. Berlin 8343: Winter, British Museum
35.11; 564:
Boeotian
early fifth century. 73-564; FIG. I; Aeolian, early

Grills (2 I1-3)
No. 22 is in bad condition, and I am not
21. Berlin 6674: AZ 1874
22.pl. 14; Winter,
Louvre BII9: Typen
BCH
35-3; Rayet, Monuments de l'Art Antique
Mollard-Besques, (1884
Catalogu
late sixth
pl. 84; Pottier, Les Statuettes century.
de Terre cuite dans l'An
23. Athens NM,
quiti (1890) 47 fig. 17; Neugebauer, Die Stathatou
Technik
Altertums (I919) o00 fig.Forskningar och Fynd Art
164 = The Technical (19
Boeotian,
the Ancients (1930) 98 fig. late sixth
164; K6ster, century
Die griechisch
Terrakotten (1926) pl. I Ia; Cloch6, pl. 35. I; Majews
KMSG 208 fig. 217; Pots and Pans fig. 46; PLAT
VIII 5; from Tanagra, early fifth century.

Grinders (24-30)
The kneeling figure (no. 24) is the easie
Moritz, pl. 2a, shows a kneeling figure whi
(Louvre CA II44: BCH xxiv (1900) pl. I
Madame Mollard-Besques, who supplied m
sold the terracotta stated that it came f
Thebes. The half figures (nos. 25-6) may
likely the former. However, the Mycen
which are so remarkably similar, also t
grinding figures, even though they are s
raised block in the centre of a broad basin,
stone across the block, causing the flour
French tells me that fragments of other M
Mycenae. A further interesting parallel
Bisenzio, Etruria, the figure being simi
Preistorico inv. 51762: Montelius, La Civilis
Karpe, Vom Anfang Roms (RM Erg v, 19
a black-figured fragment in Athens (Akr.

24. Lausanne, Marion Schuster

28. British Museum collection:
234: Hutton, GreekSche-
Terracott
fold, Meisterwerke 184, no. 193;
Statuettes Boeotian,
(1899) fig. c.
3; Winter, Typen 500
34-5; B
Higgins
25. Southampton, Diana Sparkes:
Catalogue PLATE
pl. 39.234; Majewski, KMSG VII 4;
206 fig. 21
Pots and Pans fig. 34; Rhodian, middle of the fift
Argive; mid-sixth century.
26. British Museum 233:
century. Salzmann, Nicropole de
29. Oxford G 39:
Camirus (1875) pl. 22.3; Winter, PLATE VIII
Typen I; Boeotian,
169.3; Walteearl
BMCat pl. 6, bottom, middle;
fifth century. Webster, Greek Ter
30. Amsterdam,
cottas (I950) pl. 25; Higgins, Allard Pierson pl.
Catalogue Museum: Scheur-
39.233
Moritz, pl. Ib; PLATE leer,
VII 3; Rhodian,
Catalogus eener Verzamelingmiddle of
Egyptische, Grieksche
fifth century. Romeinsche en Oudheden (I909) pl. 16.I9I; Boeotian
27. Athens, private possession:
sixth century. Ann. xxiv-vi n.
viii-x (1946/8) 15 figs. I-4 (Blegen); Mycenaea
Late Helladic III.

Mortars and Pestles (31-4)

This group is proportionally much smaller than the same subject in vase p
n. 5. I am not sure of the genuineness of no. 34.

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 135
31. Berlin 7681: Winter,Tanagra (1950)Bliimner,
Typen 33-9; fig. 19; Mollar
i pl. 16;
TT2 i 19 fig. 4; AM xli (1916) 57Pots
fig.and
12; Pans fig. 33
K6ster,
sixth(1926)
Die griechischen Terrakotten century. pl. 9a; Majewski,
KMSG 197 fig. 205; from 33.Tanagra,
Louvre B late sixth
2 I : Mollard-Besq
century. late sixth century.
32. Louvre Bx2o: BCH 34. xxiv
Athens, NM,(1900)
Stathatou collection:
pl. unpub-
IO.I;
Picard, VP pl. 52-3; TEL lished; Boeotian, c.Besques-Mollard,
ii 172C; 500 B.C.

Kneading Tables (35-53)

A large group, this seems to have been one of the first types produced. The kneading
table used for final kneading and for the shaping of loaves and cakes varies considerably
between figures. Mrs Stillwell (Corinth xv part 2 (1952) 206-7) notes a difference between
the Argive, Boeotian and Corinthian forms of stand. Ddonna (Ddlos xviii (1938) 48-53)
has some interesting remarks on the columnar supports common for the kneading trays.
These are also found represented on vases, e.g., r.f. cup in Corneto, Tarquinia RC 1116
(Eranos Vindobonensis (1893) 381 fig. 2; CVA Tarquinia i (xxv) pl. Io (I 162) 4; AR V 291 : 192
Douris) and b.f. stand (Auktion Basle MM xviii (1958) pl. 30.IO2). Nos. 45 and 46 have
a lamp attached to, or balanced on, the edge of the basin.
35. Corinth KT64-I; Stillwell, Corinth xv part 2 43. From Tiryns: Schliemann, Tiryns i 83 fig.
(1952) pl. 45 (Class xxxiii, no. 17); Corinthian, 21.I42; Argive, second half of sixth century.
seventh to sixth centuries. 44. Karlsruhe, Landesmuseum B 2731: unpub-
36. Corinth KT64-2: Stillwell, Corinth xv partlished;
2 Boeotian, sixth century.
(1952) pl. 45 (Class xxxiii no. I8); Corinthian, 45. Athens NM 4044: AE 1896 pl. 12.3; Winter,
seventh to sixth centuries. Typen 34.8; Bliimner, TT2 i 66 fig. 27; Majewski,
37. From Mycenae: Schliemann Mycenae (1878) KMSG 205 fig. 214; from Tanagra c. 500 B.C.
pl. I9.Io9; Argive (?), seventh century (?). 46. Boston, Museum of Fine Arts inv. 97.352:
37A. From Mycenae: BSA xlviii (i953) 63 fig. 36,Festschrift fiir James Loeb (1930) 46 fig. 2 (described
I I2 (J. M. Cook); Argive, seventh to sixth centuries.
under no. I); Chase, A Guide to the Classical Collection
Two similar but fragmentary ones were also found.(I950) 39 fig. 46, top, middle; Boeotian, late sixth
38. From the Spartan Menelaion: BSA xv century.
47. Athens NM 4052: AE 1896 pl. 12.4; Winter,
(1908/9) 122 fig. 4, nos. 48, 49, 52; seventh century.
39. From Artemis Orthia: BSA xiv (1907/90o8) Typen 34-9; Bliimner, TT2 i 66 fig. 28; Majewski,
50 fig. I, q, r, s, t; Dawkins (ed.), The Sanctuary of 207 fig. 216; from Eretria, c. 500 B.C.
KMSG
Artemis Orthia at Sparta (1929) pl. 40.I3-I5 and I57,48. Cassel, Museum Friedericianum: Winter,
fig. I I I; seventh century. Frr. of about 20 areTypen
said 35.7.
to have been found. 49. New York, Metropolitan Museum 36.11.4
40. From Perachora: Payne, Perachora i (1940) Fletcher Fund: BullMetrMus xxxii (i937) 17 fig. 2;
pl. I I I, nos. 264 and 265. These two, together Richter,
with Handbook of the Greek Collection (1953) pl. 52 i;
no. 266, are said by Jenkins (ibid., 248) to be Argive;
Boeotian, early fifth century.
50. Binningen, F. Schwitter collection: Schefold,
Stillwell (op. cit., 207) says 265 is perhaps Corinthian.
265 is early sixth century, 264 and 266 are second Meisterwerke 184, no. 191; Boeotian, c. 500 B.C.
half of sixth.
5 I. Berlin 7682: Winter, Typen 35.6; from Tanagra.
4I. From Tiryns: Schliemann, Tiryns (1886) 149,52. Bonn, University Museum: Winter, Typen
76; AA 1896, 107; Winter, Typen 34.1; Argive, 34.4; from Tanagra.
second half of sixth century. 53. Auction Basle MM xi (1953) no. 297; Boeotian,
42. From the Argive Heraeum: Waldstein, The sixth century.
Argive Heraeum ii (1905) i8 fig. 15.24; Argive, second
half of sixth century.

Grinding bowls (54-64)

The earlier bowls are only sketchily modelled and vary considerably in detail, as do
the actual examples; the later ones (nos. 57-64) follow closely the known development in
the shape of rim, handles and spout. The Corinthian origin of the later terracottas agrees
with the origin of the actual bowls.
54. From Rhitsona, 267: BSA xiv (I907/8) 296, 55. Munich, Loeb collection: Sieveking, Terra-
fig. 21 and pl. 7b (Burrows and Ure); Boeotian, kotten der Sammlung Loeb i ( 916) pl. 4. '; Boeotian,
c. 500 B.C. late sixth century.

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 136 B. A. SPARKES
60.
56. Boston, Museum of British
Fine ArtsMuseum 957:
inv. 01.7783:
BSA xiv (I907/8) 296 fig. 2o;
135-957; Richter, late
Corinthian, Ancie
fif
61.
Furniture (1926) fig. o107; British Museum
Festschrift 958:
fiir James L
(I930) 46 fig. I (described under
135-958; no. 2); late
Corinthian, AM fif
Iv
62. Chase,
(1932) Beil. i (Jacobsthal); BritishA Museum
Guide to 969:
the
bottom,
Classical Collection (1950) left;
39 fig. Higgins,
46, centre, Cat
lef
PLATE VIII. 3; Boeotian; early
thian, fifth
early century.
fourth century
63. Athens
57-8. Leningrad Hermitage 90o9F NM 1298o:
and G: un
C. Ren
late fifth
1877 pl. 6.9 and Io; Winter, or early
Typen fourth
224.11; cen
late fif
century. 64. Basle, private collecti
59. Bonn, Universityxvi (1956) Winter,
Museum: pl. 9-44;Typen
Schef
no. fifth
224.10o; from Corinth, late 318; Corinthian,
century. fourth

Butcher (65)
This subject is more common in vase-painting, see n. 6.
65. Louvre BI22: TEL ii I87D; Mollard-Besques, Catalogue i pl. 16; from Thebes, late sixth century.

Chytrai (66-70)
The chytra is rarely shown on vases, see n. 77, but is quite common amongst terracottas.
No. 67 may not be a chytra, but a KaKKap77, which had three feet (Photius s.v.). Mme
Mollard- Besques, in her description of the terracotta, says that the pot is 'une marmite a
trois pieds et deux anses'. I have seen only photographs of the piece.
66. Berlin 8349: Winter, Typen 34.6; Majewski, 69. Athens NM 4045: AE 1898 pl. 13.4 (described
KMSG 211 fig. 223; Boeotian (?), seventh to sixth under no. 3); Winter, Typen 35.4; Boeotian, late
centuries. sixth century.
67. Louvre BII8: BCH xxiv (900oo) pl. 11.3 70. Boston Museum of Fine Arts inv. 01.7788:
(Pottier); TEL ii I72D; Besques-Mollard, Tanagra Festschriftfiir James Loeb (1930) 46 fig. 3; Klein, Child
(1950) fig. 3; Mollard-Besques Catalogue i pl. 15; Life in Greek Art (1932) pl. 32 D; Chase, A Guide to
from Tanagra, late sixth century. the Classical Collection (1950) 39, fig. 46, top left; Pots
68. Boston, Museum of Fine Arts inv. 97-349: and Pans fig. 41; Boeotian, early fifth century.
Boston Museum Report 1897, 32 no. 5; Festschrift fiir
James Loeb (1930) 47 fig. 6; Richter, Archaic Greek Art
(1949) fig. 247; Boeotian, c. 500 B.C.

Cake Pans (71-5)

Kourouniotis (AE 1896, 215) suggests that the pan is a 7rTAcOavov. No. 73 has a pan
shaped like a winnowing corb or liknon (JHS xxiii (1903) 292-334) and may not belong
to this group.

7 I. Berlin 7683: Winter, Typen 35.8; K6ster,
Die griechischen Terrakotten (1926) pl. 9b; from Thisbe.
72. Berlin 8485: Winter, Typen 33.6.
73. Athens NM 4042: AE 1898 pl. 13.3; Winter,
Typen 35.5; from Tanagra, late sixth century.
74. Athens NM 4756: AE 1896 pl. 12.6; from
Tanagra.
75. Leipzig inv. TI9oo: Paul, Antike Welt in Ton
(I959) pl. I 1.23; Boeotian, early fifth century.

Mixer (76)
This is an unusual type and one not found in Winter, Typen. The figure has a bowl
between her knees and seems to be mixing or stirring.
76. Amsterdam, Allard Pierson Museum: Scheur- Romeinsche en Oudheden (I909) pl. 18.190; Boeotian,
leer, Catalogus eener Verzameling Egyptische, Grieksche, sixth century.

Miscellanea (77-84).
I have put at the end those terracottas which are either non-Greek or doubtfully con-
nected with cooking, and those on which I have too little information to place certainly,

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 THE GREEK KITCHEN 137
or of which I have no picture. Nos. 77 and 78 are
sonese, and may represent cooks, but alternative
equally plausible. Nos. 79-81 are Cypriot, no 79 s
showing a barrel-cooker, as there are five cakes insid
and no. 81 a man holding a lump of dough, presu
kneader, or maybe a grinder, nos. 83 and 84 are knea
77. Louvre B3o2: Mollard-Besques, Catalogue i 8o. New York, Cesnola collection 212o: Cesnola,
pl. 33; from Elaious, late sixth century. op. cit., pl. Io, 75; Myres, op. cit., 346; McClees,
78. Louvre B304: Mollard-Besques, Catalogue i op. cit., 41 fig. 50; Cypriot.
pl. 33; from Elaious, late sixth century. 81. Hamburg Museum inv. 1930. 44: AA 1935
79. New York, Cesnola collection 2122: Cesnola, col. 88, fig. 17; Cypriot.
A descriptive Atlas of the Cesnola Collection of Cypriote 82. Louvre inv. AO 1846: BCH xviii (1894)
Antiquities in the Metropolitan Museum, New York ii pl. 17.3; Winter, Typen 34.7; from Phoenicia.
(1894) pl. I0.73; Myres, Handbook of the Cesnola 83. From Medma: NSc 1917, 47 fig. '4; Locrian,
Collection ofAntiquitiesfrom Cyprus (I 914) 348; McClees, early fifth century.
Daily Life of the Greeks and Romans (1941) 41I fig. 49; 84. British Museum I206: Higgins, Catalogue
Cypriot. pl. 164. 1206; Locrian, early fifth century.

There remain a few about which information is scant. There is a description of a

pestle and mortar figure, but no picture, in AA 1902, I I I, no. 2, in the Albertinum, Dresden.
Two other Cypriot terracottas are listed, but not illustrated, in Cesnola, op. cit., nos. 2121
and 2123. Chase (Festschriftfiir James Loeb (1930) 49) quotes a description in French from
Catalogue de la Collection d'antiquitis grecques de M. O. Rayet 17, no. 56, as a comparison for our
no. 68. Winter (Typen 35-4, note) compares our no. 69 with Catalogue de la Collection Rayet
(I886) 6, no. 8, from Tanagra, presumably another chytra figure. I have seen neither
of the last mentioned books, so cannot say for certain whether they are one and the same.
85. Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum inv. V.I674: unpublished; Cypriot.

Information on this terracotta came too late for inclusion with the Cypriot terracottas
above. It, like them, stands aside from the main categories assembled above, and again
the subject, though certainly connected with food, is difficult to make out in detail. A
woman is seated at a bowl on a stand, in which there seems to be dough or a cake, whilst
on the floor to the left is a dish containing cakes. A dog is sniffing at the dish. The photo-
graph of this terracotta I owe to the kindness of Dr Rudolf Noll, of the Kunsthistorisches
Museum.
B. A. SPARKES.
University of Southampton.

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PLATE IV JHS lxxxii (1962)

x. Storage bin 2. Baking covers

3. Lidded basins

4. Quern and rubber; grinding bowls and grinder

5. Storage jars 6. Strainer and parcher

THE GREEK KITCHEN

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JHS lxxxii (1962) PLATE V

2. Mixing bowls

I. Oven and brazier

3. Braziers

4. Cooking pots on stands, and Hellenistic tripod pot

5. Grills and a frying-pan

6. Cooking pot on a 7. Water-jar and bucket

barrel cooker
THE GREEK KITCHEN

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PLATE VI JHS lxxxii (1962)

I. Cooking pots

2. Jug

3. Lidded bowls

4. Braziers, classical and modern

5. Lidded bowls on braziers

6. Braziers, Hellenistic and Roman

THE GREEK KITCHEN

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JHS lxxxii (1962) PLATE VII

I. Perfume pots, oil jugs a

2. Serpieri Collection; Boeo

3. London 233 4. Private collection

THE GREEK KITCHEN
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PLATE VIII JHS lxxxii (1962)

I. Oxford G39 2. Brussels inv. 2164

3. Boston o01.7783 4. Berlin 31.644

5. Berlin 6674 6. Paris E 635

THE GREEK KITCHEN

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