How to follow the instructions

Decide if the change you seek in handling is big or small.

- If it is big, start from the top of the list.

-- Start with the 1st instruction. If it's not possible to do, skip to the 2nd instruction. Do this to your setup
and drive the car for 3 laps.

If the issue is not completely fixed, evaluate if you want another big influence action or not.

If yes, repeat the same instruction

If you need less important change, try an instruction further down in the list. Or if you want fine tuning, try
starting from the last instruction.

- If the action you seek is small, start from the bottom of the list

-- Start with the last instruction. Do this to your setup and drive the car for 3 laps

If the issue is not completely fixed, repeat or skip to the penultimate instruction from the list. Keep in mind
that the higher you go in the list the more will influence your car handling.

Things to keep in mind

- Pressures are the most important thing. First check your pressures, then change setup. Then check your
pressures again, as the setup will change how the car moves around on the tyres.

- The most important factor of the car handling is the guy sitting between the steering wheel and the seat.
Make sure you can drive the car consistently for 10 laps, before starting to change the setup a lot.

- Everything you do, will affect the car in all similar conditions. So keep in mind that what you fix for a
specific turn, might make the car worse in a different part of the circuit. Setup is all about compromise.

- Once you have tried the Setup Engineer Bot instructions, please feel free to join the setup discussion and
propose or ask additional information to fine tune your car.

understeer high speed entry

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 1 click lower rear wing

- 2mm higher rear height

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- Less front braking balance

- Less preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

understeer high speed apex

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 1 click lower rear wing

- 2mm higher rear height

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- Less preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

understeer high speed exit

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 1 click lower rear wing

- 2mm higher rear height

- Lower rear bumpstop range to 15 and then lower slowly from there and check results
(advice to keep rear bumpstop rate as low as possible)

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- Less Traction Control

- Less preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

understeer low speed entry

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- Less front braking balance

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- 1 click lower front wheel rate

- 1 click lower front antiroll bar

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 2mm higher rear height

- Less preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

understeer low speed apex

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time.

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- 1 click lower front wheel rate

- 1 click lower front antiroll bar

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 2mm higher rear height

- Less preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

understeer low speed exit

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time.

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher front bumpstop range

- 1 click lower front bumpstop rate

- Less Traction Control

- 1 click lower front wheel rate

- 1 click lower front antiroll bar

- 1 click higher rear antiroll bar

- 1mm lower front ride height

- 2mm higher rear height

- More preload

Generic:

- More front negative camber

- Less rear negative camber

- Less rear toe

oversteer high speed entry

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher rear wing

- 1mm higher front ride height

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

- More front braking balance

- More preload

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear negative camber

- More rear toe

oversteer high speed apex

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher rear wing

- 1mm higher front ride height

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

- More preload

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear negative camber

- More rear toe

oversteer high speed exit

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher rear wing

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1mm higher front ride height

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear toe

oversteer low speed entry

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- More front braking balance

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

- 1 click higher front wheel rate

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1 click higher front antiroll bar

- 1mm higher front ride height

- More preload

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear negative camber

- More rear toe

oversteer low speed apex

Assuming pressures are correct.
Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 click higher front wheel rate

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1 click higher front antiroll bar

- 1mm higher front ride height

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

- More preload

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear negative camber

- More rear toe

oversteer low speed exit

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- Higher TC level

- Max rear bumpstop range (avoid touching the bumpstops under acceleration)

- 2mm lower rear height

- 1 click higher front wheel rate

- 1 click higher front antiroll bar

- 1mm higher front ride height

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 1 click higher front bumpstop rate

- Less preload

Generic:

- Less front negative camber

- More rear toe

car bounces on kerbs/bumps
Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 2 click higher front bumpstop range

- 2 click lower front bumpstop rate

- 1 click lower front antiroll bar

- 1 click lower rear antiroll bar

- Adjust fast bump and rebound dampers.

There is no easy way to give a rule of thumb.

Normally you should use a soft fast bump and a bit higher fast rebound. But if your suspension is stiff, you
might see that the lower you go the worse it gets. If that’s the case you need to raise fast bump to a much
higher value(stiffer) and then fine tune again.

This happens because you need to control how much energy the spring absorbs from hitting a kerb (bump).
All this energy needs to be released (rebound). If your damper is too soft, it will permit the spring to
accumulate too much energy and you won’t be able to control it (jump).

Also… because dampers are magic.

high speed over/under

When the car changes from under to oversteer on mid to high speed pedal work, try the following:

Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 clicks stiffer (higher numbers) wheel rates all around

- 1 click lower front bumpstop range

- 2 clicks stiffer slow dampers all around

- 1 click higher rear wing

low speed over/under

When the car changes from under to oversteer on mid to low speed pedal work, try the following:
Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- 1 click stiffer (higher numbers) front wheel rates

- 1 clicks softer (lower numebrs) slow dampers all around

- 2mm lower rear ride height

tyre pressures
Here are the ideal tyre pressures range.

All GT3 dry slicks: 27.4-28.0 psi

All GT3 wet tyres: 29.5-30.5 psi

All GT4 dry slicks: 26.5-27.5 psi

All GT4 wet tyres: 29.5-30.5 psi

Obviously depending on the situations and conditions you might find better handling and performance
even if you go outside the proposed pressure ranges, but it is a good idea to stay in between initially.

tyres overheating
Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- Driving style is the most important factor

- Open brake ducts (higher numbers)

- Less negative camber

- Less toe

- 2 clicks softer fast dampers

- 2 clicks softer slow dampers

- Higher ABS and TC levels

tyres cold
Assuming pressures are correct.

Do only one modification at a time

From more to less influence.

- Close brake ducts (lower numbers)

- More negative camber

- More toe

- 2 clicks stiffer fast dampers

- 2 clicks stiffer slow dampers

- Lower ABS and TC levels

brake pads
Brake pads and brake discs wear is relative to the brake pad choice, temperatures, driving style, ABS and
brake bias usage. Brake disc and pad wear is shown at the end of each driving session, when you return to
your strategy setup UI on the "last readings" box.

Additionally brake pads consumption will appear as a red dot in the center of the brake discs heat
visualisation in the tyre and brakes HUD, when brake pads are under 10mm thickness.

Pad 1: Very aggressive friction coefficient, max braking performance, aggressive disc and pad wear. Pedal
modulation can be tricky if out of temperature or as it wears down. Use in hotlap and qualifying sessions,
sprint races and can withstand 3 hours races. Risky and dangerous to use over 3 or 4 hours because the
pads will wear down, overheat and lose linearity in brake pedal feel.

Pad 2: Very Good friction coefficient, very good braking performance, good disc and pad wear. Pedal
modulation almost always good and linear, good feedback while overheating and gradual wear. Perfect for
endurance racing, but can also be used in hotlap , qualifying sessions as well as sprint races as what it loses
in performance, regains in braking modulation and predictability. The default choice for long endurance
races, easily makes 12 hours and can make 24 hours race too with a bit of care. Will also overheat and lose
linearity in brake pedal feel when worn out, but in a more predictable way and after much longer stints.
Because of the lower friction, you could possibly use smaller brake ducts.

Pad 3: Moderate friction coefficient, braking zones can be longer in dry, very moderate disc and pad wear.
Excellent pedal modulation also in cold ambient conditions, very linear pedal feedback. Excellent choice for
wet conditions and very long endurance races. Very predictable and easy to modulate brake pad.

Pad 4: Identical to pad1 but with exaggerated wear for fade demonstration purposes.