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TDS Amitose R Presentation Ver.13 @20190820
TDS Amitose R Presentation Ver.13 @20190820
TDS Amitose R Presentation Ver.13 @20190820
1
What’s Amitose R ?
[Relation between skin condition and moisture] [Relation between hair condition and moisture]
High
Water (moisture) content of
High
Secondary transpiration
100
(% base of healthy skin)
6.0
stratum corneum
moisture (%)
80
5.5
Moisture
Moisture
60
5.0
40
20 4.5
~
~
Low Low
0 0
Healthy skin Damaged skin Healthy hair Damaged hair
2
What’s Amitose R ?
Structural design of Amitose R
Amitose R is a new ingredient made from
the combination of Glycerin and Arginine.
Glycerin Arginine
High moisturizing effect Moisturizing effect “Long-Lasting Moisturizing Effect”
Mostly used as Amino acid,
moisturizing ingredient Natural moisturizing factor (NMF)
High moisturizing effect
Adsorption power High adsorption power
“Hydrogen bond” “Ionic bond”
by hydroxyl groups in molecule by guanidino group in molecule High sustained effect
from high adsorption power
Synergy effect of
“Hydrogen bond” and “Ionic bond”
3
What’s Amitose R ?
Chemical structure and characteristics
4
Effect of Amitose R
Mechanism of “Long-Lasting Moisturizing Effect” for skin and hair
Amino acid composition of
human keratin K1/K10
Acidic amino acids
(anionic functional group)
Ionic bond
Hydrogen bond
Skin or Hair
R : Side chain of amino acids
Amitose R closely adsorbs to skin (stratum corneum) and damaged parts of hair (anionic feature)
thanks to “Ionic bond” from guanidino group in arginine in addition to “Hydrogen bond” from hydroxyl
group in glyceryl group.
That is why it is difficult to rinse off, and moisturizing effect continues for a long time. In case of hair
care, Amitose R penetrates into inner of hair because of its low-molecular weight, and keeps moisture.
5
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing Effect” for both Skin and Hair
All-in-One Care
For
Scalp
care
6
Effect for skin
7
Effect for skin
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for skin
in vivo test (W/W%)
8
Effect for skin
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for skin
Measurement of water content in the epidermal stratum corneum (in vivo test)
30
# p<0.1 (t-test) High
Amitose R
25 Control
Not applied
20
Capacitance()
Moisture
15
10 * * *
5
0
Low
-5
Application After washing 15min 30min 45min 60min
[Method] The inner lower arm of 5 volunteers (20’s to 30’s) was washed, acclimated 20 min (20±2 deg C, 50±5%) and water content in the stratum corneum
measured. A solution of 1% Amitose R or a control of arginine and glycerin (molar mass of 10.6 μmol/L, identical to Amitose R) was applied and left 15
min. The surface was then washed 30 sec. with a lathering face-wash diluted at 5% and rinsed with running water 1 min. The water content was
measured with Corneometer CM-825 (Courage+ Khazaka electronic GmbH) immediately after washing and 15, 30, 45 and 60 min after.
[Conditions] Temperature: 20±2 deg C, humidity 50±5%
9
Effect for skin
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for skin
Test-3; Evaluation of
wrinkle, texture, pore and inflammation of skin
10
Effect for skin
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for skin
20
# p<0.1 (t-test) n = 13 High Skin conditioning effect
Amitose R
Suppression of multilayer
Capacitance()
15
Control
desquamation of stratum
Moisture
corneum
10
Anti-wrinkle effect
#
5 Suppression of rough skin
11
Effect for skin
Skin conditioning effect by moisturizing
[Method] A gel containing 1.0% Amitose R was applied on the cheek of a volunteer (20’s to 40’s) twice a day (morning/ afternoon) for 6 weeks. Then,
the stratum corneum (SC) on the cheek was collected by tape-stripping. SC transferred onto a glass slide was stained with 0.5% brilliant
green and 1.0% gentian violet for 10 min. After washing with water, the ratio of multilayer desquamation was analyzed for images observed
with an optical microscope (BX-51-FL, Olympus) . Degree of multilayer desquamation was calculated by the ratio of area in multilayer
desquamation and area in the total SC using the SC measuring program; Image-Pro Plus (Media Cybernetics Inc.)
[Conditions] Temperature: 20±2 deg C, humidity 40-50%
12
Effect for skin
Skin conditioning effect by moisturizing
Wrinkle Texture
[Method] A gel containing 1.0% Amitose R was applied on the cheek of a volunteer (20’s to 40’s) twice a day (morning/ afternoon) for 6 weeks. Wrinkle
score and Texture score were measured by VISIA evolution® (Canfield Scientific Inc.). The green marks in the left figure indicate scanned
wrinkle part. The yellow marks in the right figure indicate scanned cristae cutis and the blue marks indicate scanned sulci cutis of skin.
- Wrinkle score : Calculated value by both the number and the length of wrinkle.
- Texture score : Calculated value by cristae cutis and sulci cutis of skin.
[Conditions] Temperature: 20±2 deg C, humidity 40-50%
13
Effect for skin
Skin conditioning effect by moisturizing
Pore Inflammation
[Method] A gel containing 1.0% Amitose R was applied on the cheek of a volunteer (20’s to 40’s) twice a day (morning/ afternoon) for 6 weeks. Pore
score and red area’s score(result from inflammation) were measured by VISIA evolution® (Canfield Scientific Inc.). The violet marks in the left
figure indicate scanned pore part. The sky blue marks in the right figure indicate scanned skin redness.
- Pore score : Calculated value by both the number and the area of pores.
- Red area score : Calculated value by the state of inflammation, capillary vessel and acne .
[Conditions] Temperature: 20±2 deg C, humidity 40-50%
14
Effect for skin
Skin conditioning effect
in vivo test
(W/W%)
Volunteers applied formulae twice a day on their cheeks. Phenoxyethanol 1.0 1.0
Water Up to 100 Up to 100
Observation/evaluation
(after use)
15
Effect for skin
Skin conditioning effect
Control
Amitose R
160
150
Moisture
140
130
Control
120
110
Low
100
0 1 2 3 4
Time (week)
[Method] Cream containing 3.0% of Amitose R was applied on the forearm of volunteers (20’s to 50’s) twice a day (morning/afternoon) for 4
weeks. Then water content in the epidermal stratum corneum is measured by using Corneometer CM-825 (Courage+
Khazaka electronic GmbH), and skin condition is observed by using USB microscope (Scalar Corporation).
[Conditions] Temperature: 20±2 deg C, humidity 40-50%
16
Effect for skin
Face wash
17
Effect for skin
Facial cleansing gel
10
Reference formula No.0142 (W/W%)
Smoothness 5 Moist-feel
(after rinse off) Face cleansing gel Control Amitose R
0 Amitose R - 1.0
Promois EFLS * 5.0 5.0
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 0.5
Glycerin 18.0 18.0
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate 5.0 5.0
Non-dryness Moist-feel
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Up to 100 Up to 100
(after dry) (after dry)
Water 1.0 -
* Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Water (SEIWA KASEI)
Amitose R Control
18
Effect for skin
Skin toner
19
Effect for hair
20
Effect for hair
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for hair
Bleached hair
SEM image TOF-SIMS image
Treatment
Hair was soaked in 1.0% water solution of Amitose R
and shaken at 40 deg C for 10 min.
After that, it was washed with 40 deg C running water
and dried with towels and a drier.
Measurement of adsorption
to hair
Amitose R
[Measurement instrument]
TOF-SIMS (Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry)
21
Effect for hair
“Long-Lasting Moisturizing effect” for hair
16.0
Bleached hair ** p<0.01 (t-test)
14.0
n=3 **
(mg/g)
and shaken at 40 deg C for 10 min. 8.0
After that, it was washed with deionized water.
Comparison; same treatment was conducted using
6.0
Glycerin instead of Amitose R.
4.0
Measurement of adsorption
amount to hair 2.0
[Measurement instrument] 0
LC-MS Glycerin Amitose R
LCMS-2020 (Shimadzu Co., Ltd.)
22
Effect for hair
Moisturizing effect
[Measurement instrument]
Electric moisture balance 0 20 40 60 80
EB-340MOC (Shimadzu Co., Ltd.) Heating Time (min.)
[Reference] Seiji Nagao, Sakiko Uchida, Fragrance Journal, special issue, No.17, 169-174 (2000)
23
Effect for hair
Moisturizing effect
8.0
Secondary transpiration moisture
** p<0.01 (t-test)
n=5
High
7.0
**
6.0
(% dry base)
5.0
Moisture
4.0
3.0
2.0
1.0
Low
0
Control Amitose R
24
Effect for hair
Improvement of combing character and suppression of static electricity
[Evaluation method] (W/W%)
25
Effect for hair
Improvement of combing character and suppression of static electricity
Combing performance
6.0
Static electricity
5.0
26
Effect for hair
Anti-hair frizzing effect
[Method] On the right part of the wig of 10g of solution of 3.3% of Amitose R was applied. On the left side 10g of ion exchanged water
applied. The wig was set and hair style upkeep was observed.
[Conditions] Temperature: 26-28 deg C, Humidity 75±5 %
27
Effect for hair
Anti-dust / Anti-pollution effect
Evaluation of static particles adsorption on the hair (W/W%)
Shampoo Control Amitose R
Bleached hair Amitose R - 3.3
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%),
30.0 30.0
water
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%),
Shampoo and conditioner (1 time for each) water
10.0 10.0
28
Effect for hair
Anti-dust / Anti-pollution effect
n=3
0.2
Few particles Dirty
0.12
0.08
0.04
Clean
0
Control Amitose R
Control Amitose R
29
Effect for scalp
30
Effect for scalp
Scalp care effect
in vivo test (W/W%)
Shampoo Control Amitose R
Volunteers Amitose R - 1.0
Promois EFLS-F *1 37.5 37.5
22 volunteers; male and female in 20’s to 60’s Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%), Water 8.0 8.0
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.0 1.0
Observation and evaluation of scalp Citric Acid/ Sodium Citrate 0.5 0.5
Polyquaternium-10 0.3 0.3
Methylparaben 0.2 0.2
Water Up to 100 Up to 100
Continuous use of
shampoo and conditioner conditioner Common
(for 4 weeks) Steartrimonium Chloride (28%), Water 4.5
Behentrimonium Chloride (80%), Isopropyl Alcohol (20%) 1.2
Once a day Glyceryl Stearate 1.2
Cetyl Alcohol 4.8
Observation and evaluation of scalp Paraffin 1.8
31
Effect for scalp
Dandruff prevention effect
Dandruff!!
32
Effect for scalp
Scalp itching improving effect
VAS questionnaire about scalp itching (in vivo continuous use test)
30
* p<0.10 (t-test)
20 High What’s VAS (Visual Analogue Scale)
10
questionnaire ?
Scalp itching
-1.7 Method used to evaluate numerically sensations such as itching:
0
VAS Score
intensity
The VAS is a 10-cm long line, on which subjects indicate the itch intensity by
marking the line at the point that corresponds to the degree of their itch, where
-10 the beginning of the scale refers to no itch (0 point) and the end of the scale to
*
the worst imaginable itch(10 points). It provides numerical values of the itch
-20 intensity from 0 (no itch) to 10 (the worst imaginable itch), and each subjects
-21.8 must indicate a number that corresponds to the perceived itch intensity.
-30
-40 Low
100 mm
Worst
No itch imaginable
-50 XX mm
0 100 itch
Before After
Answer
Amitose R Control
33
Effect for skin microbiome
34
What is the skin microbiome ?
35
What is the skin microbiome ?
Common bacteria of the skin microbiome
Called the beautiful skin bacteria, they are Called the bacteria of acne, they help the Known as the bacteria of roughness, they
found in number on healthy skins. They skin to keep its good condition. are found in number in rough skins.
keep the skin slightly acid and produces Nevertheless, when they grow too much When some skin troubles makes the skin
anti-bacterial substances which prevent the cause inflammations and induce acne. more alkaline, they multiply and worsen
the proliferation of S.aureus. the troubles and leading to inflammation.
36
Effect for skin microbiome
Bacteria proliferation & utilization
“Utilization” is a biological phenomenon where a given substance
is used as a nutrient by bacteria which as a consequence proliferate.
Bacteria
Bacteria
Substance Substance
37
Effect for skin microbiome
Utilization by S.epidermidis (good bacteria)
0.12
Increase in S.epidermidis
OD 620 variation rate
0.10 S.epidermidis
** increased ! **
0.08
*
0.06 *
0.04
Amitose R
0.02
0 Low
[Method] BPW medium with 1.0% sample was mixed with Staphylococcus epidermidis and cultured at 37 deg C for 48 hours. At each
stage(After mixing, 24 h after, 48 h after), OD620 was measured. The culture plates were observed after 48h.
38
Effect for skin microbiome
Utilization by S.aureus (bad bacteria)
0.12
OD 620 variation rate
**
Increase in S.aureus
0.10
No change in
0.08 S.aureus **
**
0.06 * **
0.04 *
Amitose R
0.02
0 Low
[Method] BPW medium with 1.0% sample was mixed with Staphylococcus aureus and cultured at 37 deg C for 48 hours. At each stage(After
mixing, 24h after, 48 h after), OD620 was measured. The culture plates were observed after 48h.
39
Effect for skin microbiome
Utilization by P.acnes (opportunistic bacteria)
1.00 **
OD 620 variation rate
**
Increase in P.acne
0.80
No change in
0.60 P.acne **
0.40 **
** * * Amitose R
0.20
0 Low
[Method] GAM semisolid medium with 1.0% sample was mixed with Propionibacterium acnes and cultured at 37 deg C for 48 hours under
anaerobic conditions. At each stage(After mixing, 24 h after, 48 h after), OD620 was measured. The culture plates were
observed after 48h.
40
Effect for skin microbiome
Utilization by P.acnes (opportunistic bacteria)
P.acnes
Washing Moisturizer
Cleansing having utilization
No effect Amitose R
Proliferation Amitose R
Excess sebum
Amitose R isn’t
propagates P.acnes utilized by P.acnes
41
Product Information
Composition
All rights reserved. Data appear on this catalog are actual obtained values by our experimental procedures, but not the specification values. Upon the use of the material on this catalog, please
verify the functions, effects and safety of the materials in your company’s using conditions. SEIWA KASEI cannot guarantee that the applications, which are introduced in this catalog, never
interfere with any patents. For certain reasons, the information of this catalog may be changed without notice.