CHAPTER 1 : BACKGROUND OF THE RESEARCH

1.1 Introduction

Melaka is famous for Kebaya Nyonya Baba, Kelantan is famous for Baju Siti Wan
Kembang, Pahang State, Baju Riau Pahang, Selangor also has its own custom attire, namely
Kebaya Selangor. Baju Kebaya Selangor should have four pesak. Pesak is a fabric sewn on
the crotch or front of the pants with a button or under the armpit of a pesak shirt. Used
crossed. At the bottom of the kebaya selangor shirt cut above the knee level and straight
unlike we see other kebayas which have a "V" shaped cut below. In fact, the selangor kebaya
cut on both arms is also straight and not pointed.

The title for this study is "Kebaya Selangor": In Social Cultural Context. The
researcher suggested three areas of interest such as the design, the structure, the symbolism
and the textile. The researcher chooses several places such as Selangor and Kuala Lumpur.
The researcher suggested five of keywords such as. Pattern, Fabric, Originality, Authenticity
and Kebaya.

Baju kebaya is worn by Malay women. There are two theories about the origin of the
kebaya. Some say that the word 'kebaya' comes from the Arabic word habaya which means a
long dress that is split in front while others say that this kind of dress was brought by the
Portuguese to Malacca. Baju Kebaya Selangor is a popular community dress which is now
famous in the west coast of the Malay Peninsula, among them are Perak, Kedah, Penang,
Perlis, Melaka, especially Selangor. This Baju Kebaya has a long cut. Different from other
Kebaya. The use of Kebaya Selangor clothing began to be seen since the 19th century and
began to spread to all districts in the State Of Selangor.

Kebaya is identified as the identity of traditional fashion in Selangor, it is a kebaya

labuh, sarong, kerudung or shawl with a brooch that was styled in the 1940s and may be
older than the data. The development of fashion changed with the wearing of short kebaya
with Javanese batik cloth or batik-patterned sarong around the 1940s to 1970s, followed by
short kebaya or Bandung kebaya.
 1.2 Issues And Problem Statement

The problem statement are external effects over which the researcher has no control.
It is a frequent problem in research projects. The first obstacle is limited of valid and relevant
documentation. This can be proven when in a quote given by Prof Dr Siti Zainon Ismail
through the presentation of his paper, 'Knowing Selangor State Style Women's Clothing
Notes 1930-1970s in Gombak, Selangor, Siti Zainon said "Kebaya is identified as the identity
of traditional clothing in Selangor based on his study and observations, he said, the records
obtained based on photos owned by the mother proved that kebaya labuh, sarong, kerudung
or scarf with brooch were styled in the 1940s and may be longer than the data. " She said it
may take longer than that to show ambiguity in the origin of Kebaya Selangor.

Next is the lack of previous studies and data. This is shown in the words of Prof Dr
Siti Zainon saying “Selangor has many cultures but its education depends. When a new
leader takes over, there will be new studies but the content will be repeated ”. Then, the lack
of experienced people in the knowledge of this custom attire is clearly stated by Prof Dr Siti
Zainon revealed that there are still states that are looking for the value of identity because
they do not care about the value of heritage rich in wisdom from the local community. Views
and information that will germinate due to many types of Kebaya. This is when the researcher
has conducted random interviews with some of the closest people in Selangor, they are in the
range of 40 - 50 years, and they do not know and give information that germinates to each
other.
 1.3 Research Objective

The purpose of this study is to research about “Kebaya Selangor”: In Social

Cultural Context. Kebaya Selangor has become rarely known by community in Selangor
but, according to the current modernization that happens, and certain difficulties have
caused the tradition to be diminished and this study is undertaken to achieve the
objectives. In this study, the objective of the study is to study history of Kebaya Selangor.
As heritage attire of Malay-Selangor. Next is to clarify about structure of Kebaya
Selangor as in heritage attire in Selangor.

1.4 Research Question

The name of Kebaya Selangor is quite isolated from general knowledge about its existence
not only in Malaysia but also in its own state of Selangor. Various studies concern Kebaya
Selangor presence as one of Selangor’s present paucity of art output. “Kebaya Selangor” : In
Social Cultural Context is being progressively lost in the growth of modernity, as there are
too many modern attire and and influence from other culture, causing more people to be
exposed of Kebaya Selangor in Selangor. This is a few of research question that will utilized
in this research study such as what is the history behind Kebaya Selangor as heritage attire of
Malay-Selangor? Lastly the question is how is the design and structure of Kebaya Selangor in
heritage attire in Selangor?

1.5 Scope
 This study has the scope, the area, the place and the age group focus of study and the
target audience in this research flow. Firstly the scope of study is to preserve and to gain
knowledge Kebaya Selangor as a traditional clothing of the Selangor in Community of
Selangor. The Area of study the fashion and textile is chosen as the area of study. Next is the
place of the study whuch is the study will be conducted in Selangor, especially in the textile
museum in Kuala Lumpur (Texstile Museum), the Selangor Museum in Shah Alam
Perbadanan Adat Melayu Dan Warisan Negeri Selangor (PADAT) and several relevant
places.
On top of that, the interview process will be conducted with the parties involved
in the Selangor Museum in Shah Alam Perbadanan Adat Adat Dan Warisan Selangor
(PADAT) such as the author of the book about Kebaya Selangor and some relevant
parties.

1.6 Limitation

The limitation that can be studied is that the existence of other types of kebaya and a
mixture of western culture causes confusion in the tradition in Selangor. This can be
explained when there are some people who interview researchers say Kebaya Selangor is
Kebarung. This is because of the various types of kebaya in Malaysia and the innovations
that have taken place on this attire. Next, limited availability of Kebaya Selangor maker due
to its low demand from the community where this is due to lack of exposure and lack of
knowledge about this custom attire and information on the differences in the types of kebaya
clothing in other states in Malaysia.
Next is to examine the types of fabrics and types of textiles that maintain the
originality in the use of the Selangor Kebaya tradition which is fading due to the passage of
time. The production of a custom attire has its own identity and the researcher wants to
unravel and explain again where the production of Kebaya Selangor has its own identity in
terms of its textiles and motifs. Next is to clarify about the existence of this dress following a
random question that I asked some people in the age range of 40 years and they do not know
the meaning or even the existence of this custom attire.

1.7 The Significant Of Study

 This research is required to ensure the long-term viability into the future and bring

good cause. With the study the researcher this study is able to increase the existing of this

study will contribute and assist the museum in channeling more information about Kebaya

Selangor to community in Selangor. This data will expand to the community and be kept in

the long term of time. Further, this study conducted and this published exposure will help this

study will help cultural activists in receiving knowledge and resources about the traditional

clothing of Selangor. With the existing information it will add to the existing knowledge and

help correct the existing confusion.

In addition it will be very helpful to students, this study will facilitate academician,

teachers and intellectual since knowledge, resources and data about Kebaya Selangor and

about this tradition in the community of Selangor may be obtained and used as reference

material. The students, most of whom are young, are more familiar with the origins and

history of the Malay tradition. The relevance of this research study is, the findings will be

relevant to the our country. This is due to the fact that Kebaya Selangor is part of the fashion

and textile field, it is able to raise the country's name in the field of fashion design to the

international. Following the exposure given when the community is more familiar with this

dress, will result in higher demand in the demand for Kebaya Selangor style clothing will

greatly help designers and entrepreneurs in the economy in this country..