​Jason Voorhees

Inspired Crochet Doll

Materials and Supplies
1/3 skein Red Heart With Love in ​Pewter
1/3 skein Red Heart With Love in ​Black
1/3 skein Red Heart With Love in ​White
1/3 skein Red Heart Super Saver in ​Soft White
1/3 skein Bernat Super Value in ​Forest Green
3.5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
2 - 28mm black buttons for eyes
Stitch markers
Fiber filling (Maker Tip: Be sure to look for a bright white filling since blue-tinted or green-tinted
filling will show through and give the illusion of a dirty finished product)
Additional Items Needed For Mask and Machete
Small piece of cardboard or similar item used to stiffen the machete
Red​ fabric or acrylic paint for blood effect on machete
Black​ fabric or acrylic paint for black spots on mask
Scrap amount of ​Red​ yarn for triangular detail on mask
Marker or similar item used for tracing the cardboard for the machete and marking mask
Pencil with eraser, the eraser end will be used to stamp the ​black​ paint on the mask

Terms (US)
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
sc2tog - single crochet two together or ​invisible decrease ​(use invisible decrease abbreviated as
invdec when working in a spiral)
st - stitch
sts - stitches

Pattern Notes
Chains do not count as stitches. This pattern is worked in rows and in a spiral. Use stitch
markers to keep track of the “rounds” when working in a spiral. Weave in ends as you go
except where noted to leave a tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
Make an adjustable ring with ​soft white ​yarn.
R1. 8sc in the ring, pull to tighten (8)
R2. 2sc in each st around (16)
R3-5. 1sc in each st around (16)
Change color to ​forest green​ and continue
R6. 1hdc in each st around (16)
R7. 1sc in the back bump of each st around (16)
R8-16. 1sc in each st around (16)
R17. invdec in the first 2 sts of this round, 1sc in each of the last 14 sts (15)
R18-22. 1sc in each st around (15)
Cut yarn leaving about a 15-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Legs (make 2)
Make an adjustable ring with the ​black​ yarn.
R1. 8sc in the ring, pull to tighten (8)
R2. 2sc in each st around (16)
R3-5. 1sc in each st around (16)
Color change to ​pewter​ and continue
R6. 1hdc in each st around (16)
R7. 1sc in the back bump of each st around (16)
R8-16. 1sc in each st around (16)
R17. invdec in the first 2 sts of this round, 1sc in each of the last 14 sts (15)
R18-22. 1sc in each st around (15)
Cut yarn leaving about a 15-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Head
The head and shirt are worked continuously and then the coat is attached afterwards.
Make an adjustable ring with the ​soft white​ yarn.
R1. 8sc in the ring, pull to tighten (8)
R2. 2sc in each st around (16)
R3. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in the next st*, repeat *to*
around (24)
R4. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 2 sts*,
repeat *to* around (32)
R5. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 3 sts*,
repeat *to* around (40)
R6. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 4 sts*,
repeat *to* around (48)
R7-20. 1sc in each st around (48)
R21. *invdec in the first 2 sts, 1sc in each of the next 4
sts*, repeat *to* around (40)
R22. *invdec in the first 2 sts, 1sc in each of the next 3
sts*, repeat *to* around (32)
R23. *invdec in the first 2 sts, 1sc in each of the next 2
sts*, repeat *to* around (24)
Secure active yarn loop onto a stitch marker and attach
the eyes on the front of the head at R13 with 6sc between the button edges. The front of the
head is the side opposite from the st marker. This is important because there will be a color
change in the next section which will look neater if it is on the back of the doll. Then continue
with shirt section below. Do not cut the yarn, the head and shirt sections are worked
continuously.

Shirt
R1. *2sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat *to* around (30)
Change color to ​black​ and continue
R2. *2hdc in the first st, 1hdc in each of the next 4 sts*, repeat *to* around (36)
R3. 1sc in the back bump of each st around (36)
R4-12. 1sc in each st around (36)
Color change to ​pewter​ and continue
R13-14. 1sc in each st around (36)
Cut yarn leaving about a 20-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Coat
With ​forest green​ yarn ch15 making sure to leave about a 10-inch tail from the starting chain’s
slip knot. This will be used later to sew the coat closed.
R1. 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each st across (14)
R2-40. ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (14)
Cut yarn leaving about a 40-inch tail and fasten off.

Coat Assembly
1. Sew the coat closed using the 10-inch tail from
the starting chain. The closure should be about 9
sts tall. Fold the top left corner down to form a
lapel. Continue with this same tail and weave it
through the coat to the left and secure the corner of
the lapel down. Weave in end, cut off excess yarn.
2. Fold the right lapel down and using the 40-inch
tail secure it in place with a couple of sts. Do not
cut yarn yet as you will use this long thread to sew
the coat to the shirt.
3. Place the shirt in the coat and continue with a
running st around the top of the coat and shirt together about 2 crochets down to secure the
shirt to the coat. Once you’ve made a running st all around, make a few sts down and make
another running st around the bottom about 4 crochets up. Weave in end and cut off any
excess length.

Bum
Make an adjustable ring using ​pewter y​ arn.
R1. 6sc in the ring, pull to tighten (6)
R2. 2sc in each st around (12)
R3. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in the next st*, repeat *to* around (18)
R4. *2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat *to* around (24)
R5. *2sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat *to* around (30)
R6. *2sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts*, repeat *to* around (36)
Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in ends.

Mask
In this section we will be working from both ends of the skein which will help minimize the
amount of ends that are sewn in. If for some reason you are unable to work from both ends
then you can always fasten off at the end of row 10, then join with a new yarn at row R20 where
it says to continue with the active loop.
Ch13 with the ​white​ yarn.
R1. 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each st across (12)
R2. ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in the last st (14)
R3. ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 12 sts, 2sc in the last st (16)
R4. ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 14 sts, 2sc in the last st (18)
R5. ch1, turn, 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next 16 sts, 2sc in the last st (20)
R6. ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (20)

R7-10. ch1, turn, 1sc in each of the first 2 sts (2)

Secure active loop on a stitch marker and continue working rows 11-19 from the other end of
the skein. If you prefer not to work from both ends of the skein, then cut yarn here, fasten off,
weave in end.

R11. Join new ​white​ yarn in the 5th st from the

left edge of R7 (indicated by placement of crochet
hook in the photo on the right), ch1 and place 1sc
into that same st, 1sc in each of the next 7 sts (8)
R12-14.ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (8)
Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end and continue.

R16. Join new ​white​ yarn in the 2nd st from the

left (indicated by placement of crochet hook in the
lower photo on the right), ch1 and place 1sc into
that same st, 1sc in the next st (2)
R17-19. Ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (2)
Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end and continue.

R20. using the active loop that you secured on a

st marker at the end of R10*, ch1, 1sc in each of
the first 2 sts, ch4, 1sc in each of the next 8 sts
(the middle section of the mask), ch4, 1sc in each
of the last 2 sts (20)
*If you are not working from both ends of the skein and broke the yarn after R10, then simply
join a new ​white​ yarn and continue.

R21-23, ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (20)

R24. ch1, turn, sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 16 sts, sc2tog (18)
R25. ch1, turn, sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 14, sc2tog (16)

R26. ch1, turn, *sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 5 sts*, repeat *to* once, sc2tog (13)
Do not cut yarn, we will now create a border around the mask. Ch1 and sc around the left side
of the mask, then the bottom of the mask, then the right side of the mask. Once you get all the
way around to the first st in R26, you will make a R27, which will serve as the top border of the
mask.
R27. 1sc in each of the first 2 sts, sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1sc in each of
the last 2 sts (11)
Cut yarn leaving about a 10-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Mask Strap
Ch6 with the ​black​ yarn, be sure to leave about a
10-inch tail from the starting chain which will be
used for sewing.
R1. 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each
of the next 4 sts (5)
R2-11. ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (5)
R12. ch1, turn, 1sc in each of the first 5 sts, ch17
(22)
R13. turn, 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in
each st across (21)
R14-17. ch1, turn, 1sc in each st across (21)
R18. ch1, turn, 1sc in each of the first 5 sts (5)
R19-29. ch1, turn, 1sc in each across (5)
Cut yarn leaving about a 10-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Mask Assembly
1. Using a marking tool (I used a permanent
marker), make several dots on the mask to mark
where you will paint the black circles. Use photo
to the right as a guide.
2. Dip eraser end of the pencil into the ​black
fabric paint and paint the marked dots by
“stamping” with the painted eraser. Let the
paint dry.

3. Embroider the red triangle between the eyes.

Cut about a 30-inch length of ​red​ yarn and
thread it onto your yarn needle. Insert needle
from the back of the mask coming out at point
A. Be sure to leave a short tail hanging out the
back of the mask which will be used to tie off
later.

Insert at point B, out at point C.

Insert at point A, out at point C again.

Insert at point B, out at point A.

Insert at point B, out at point A.

Insert at point B, out at point D.

Insert at point E, out at point F.

Insert at point G, out at point F.

Insert at point G, out at point H.

Insert at point I, out at point H.

Insert at point I.

Make additional embroidery stitches as needed for coverage. Depending on the weight of the
yarn used you may need more stitches or less stitches. Once you are happy with the look, tie
off both tails on the back of the mask and cut excess lengths.

4. Using the ​white​ tail on the top of the mask, sew the strap end to
the top middle of the mask. Weave in end and cut excess length.

5. Using the ​black​ tails on the mask straps, sew the strap sides to
the side of the mask even with the eye holes. I like to sew into the
back bump of the white single crochet border because it hides the
black stitching. Weave in ends and cut excess lengths.
Machete
Make an adjustable ring with the ​black​ yarn, be sure to leave about a 10-inch tail hanging on the
inside of the piece which will be used for tying later.
R1. 6sc in the ring, pull to tighten (6)
R2. 2sc in each st around (12)
R3-6. 1sc in each st around (12)
Change color to ​pewter,​ cut ​black​ yarn leaving about a 15-inch tail and continue
R7-8. 1sc in each st around (12)
Place active loop on stitch marker and feed both the 10-inch
and 15-inch tail through the side of the handle. See picture on
the right. These will be used later to secure the machete to the
dolls hand.
R9. 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the last 11 sts (13)
R10. 2sc in each of the first 2 sts, 1sc in each of the last 11 sts
(15)
R11. 1sc in each st around (15)
R12. 2sc in the first st, 1sc in the second st, 2sc in the third st,
1sc in each of the last 12 sts (17)
R13-14. 1sc in each st around (17)
R15. 1sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2sc in the third st, 1sc in the fourth st, 2sc in the next st, 1sc in
each of the last 12 sts (19)
R16-24. 1sc in each st around (19)
R25. 1sc in each of the first 3 sts, invdec, 1sc, invdec, 1sc in each of the next 8 sts (this round
does not have a st count since it is not a complete round)
Cut yarn leaving about a 10-inch tail for sewing and fasten off.

Machete Assembly
1. Lay machete on the piece of cardboard and
trace around the machete. Cut out the shape
making sure to cut slightly inside the drawn
line so that the cardboard piece will fit into the
crochet piece.
2. Fit the cardboard into the machete. Give
the cardboard an extra little trim if it doesn’t fit.
3. Using the 10-inch ​pewter​ tail, whipstitch the
top of the machete closed. Weave in end and
cut any excess length.
4. Using the ​red​ fabric paint, paint the blade
(curved) edge of the machete. Apply thicker
paint to the curved edge, then thinner as you
go up the side of the blade. I used fabric paint
with a small squirt spout and just used that to
apply and spread the fabric paint. A toothpick,
old pencil, or similar type of item could also be used to apply the paint.

Assembly
1. Stuff the arms (only lightly stuff the top of the arms). Sew the arms closed and sew them onto
the side of the body slightly angled towards the front.
2. Stuff the head and the body.
3. Using the 20-inch ​pewter​ tail from the shirt, sew the bum piece to the bottom of the shirt. Add
more stuffing as needed while sewing this section closed.
4. Stuff the legs (only lightly stuff the top of the legs). Sew the legs closed and sew them onto
the front, bottom of the shirt.
5. Using the longer tail from the machete handle, sew the machete to the hand. Tie off to the
shorter ​black​ yarn, hiding it between the machete and the hand, and cut excess lengths.
6. Place mask onto doll’s head.

Please visit my OneLittleHook Facebook page to post pictures of your finished Jason Voorhees
Inspired Crochet Doll or other projects you may be working on.

Pattern created for personal use only.

Thank you and enjoy!

Text and Image Copyright 2018 by OneLittleHook