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TEACHER

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Close Study Product Analysis – Magazine – Oh Comely (renamed Oh)

The aim of this Media Studies Factsheet is to consider Oh Comely Magazine in relation to all areas of the
theoretical framework, including Media Language, Representation, Audience and Industries.

What AQA say:


The media form is magazine: Oh Comely is an independently produced magazine, aimed at a niche audience.
The front pages and extracts from issue 35 provided by the exam board must be studied.

AQA specify that the cover, plus pages 52-57 and 101-105 of this issue need to be studied

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The Visual and Aesthetic Design of Oh Comely

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The Background to Oh Comely
Oh Comely was launched by three friends who met at Oxford University and wanted to create an antidote to the
mainstream women’s magazines that are available in the marketplace. Their idea was to offer audiences more
than photoshopped images, idealised fashion and beauty articles, their plan was to create something more
meaningful in their content with honest discussions about topical issues, creative writing with art photography
and illustration.
According to its founder, Des Tan, ‘Oh Comely is a magazine about people that make the reader feel better about
themselves. It inspires people to be creative, talk to their neighbours and explore new things, rather than gossip,
buy stuff or lose weight’.

https:// www.stackmagazines.com/everything/secret-happiness- comely/

Oh

Comely was sold by the original creators and is now owned by Iceberg Press which is an independent publishing
company set up by three friends who worked in a large magazine publishing company. Iceberg owns one other
title – The Simple Things. Both magazines are about women supporting and not judging each other. Iceberg’s aim

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is that women reading these magazines should feel better about themselves and as a result be more
empowered. The Simple Things is for an older market than Oh Comely which is for women in their teens, 20s and
30s.

Media Language

How is media language used to construct the aesthetic of Oh


Comely Magazine?

The front cover displays a single image which takes

up the whole front page – in the traditional context

of mainstream magazine front covers this could be

seen as unconventional.

How is media language used to construct the aesthetic of the


cover model?

The model’s pose, where she leans back, creates a

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slightly compressed or shortened image. This together with her direct mode of address suggests

confidence.

How does clothing, hair and makeup subvert the style of traditional magazines.

The model’s clothing, hair and make-up is unconventional for traditional magazines, she wears a

military style green jacket which has sequins across the lapels, she appears to be wearing minimal

make up and her hair is off her face in a casual fashion, this masculine attire is juxtaposed by her

sparkly chandelier earrings.

How do lighting and depth of field focus the attention of the reader?

Lighting is high key and the background is blurred so as not to detract from the model’s face.

Coupled with the desaturated colour scheme and greenish tones of the jacket and

background it draws the audience in to engage directly with the model.

What does the masthead style suggest about the magazine?


The masthead font appears to be hand-written which gives the front

cover a handmade and creative feel connoting creativity and individuality.

What does the style of the tagline connote?


The tagline has a website leader board feel to it in its minimalist and precise presentation. The use

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of lowercase indicates a more relaxed and casual feel to the magazine.

How do the coverlines differ from traditional magazines?


The magazine does not use conventional coverlines instead opting for short phrases listed at the

bottom centre of the page. These are enigmatic, enticing the audience to open the magazine to

discover their meaning in more detail.

Task: Analyse the front cover of issue 20 of Oh Comely Magazine and complete the table below:
Issue 20 Oh Comely Magazine

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How is white space used as a design feature within the magazine?
Large amounts of white space are a key design feature of the magazine, the text is placed in the

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middle of the page with large white borders as an outline to the images and text.

Based on the use of whitespace and the colourful images, how can we describe the aesthetic?
The contrast of colour in the images juxtaposes the extended white borders. This creates a

stripped back aesthetic, giving the impression of photographs or paintings hung in a gallery. These

features alongside the small font size allows the pages to stand out to the reader.

How do the typefaces contribute to the magazine’s internal aesthetic?


The fonts used are sans serif which create a more contemporary and minimalist aesthetic, this

works with the formatting and white space to give a modern feel to the magazine.

Why did the editor choose to create this aesthetic?

The design is a deliberate style choice and makes the articles appear more contemporary, leading to

a magazine that has the aesthetic of a book or journal. The graphic design and photography serve

to compliment the relaxed and casual aesthetic.

Task: Analyse the ‘Speaking out’ article. What editorial decisions have been made and why? Comment on layout
and design and themes of the article.

Speaking Out Article Issue 35, p 52-53

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Analysis here:

Representations

The magazine has a clear focus on women both as consumers and as creators or contributors, this is very
contemporary and is opposite to the institutionally misogynistic norms and ideologies that have dominated the
women’s magazine industry for decades.

Study the front cover. How are positive and empowered representations of women constructed?

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Representation of Gender

How do the masthead and taglines contribute to the positive representations of gender?

The word ‘comely’ is a traditional word that means pleasant or attractive. This subverts the typical

sexualization of women by alluding to something entirely more positive. Active words in the tagline

such as ‘mischief’ and ‘ideas’, create an empowered tone as they move away from stereotypical

terms such as clothes, makeup, diet and fashion.

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What do written codes such as ‘Speaking Out’ suggest about the role of women in society?

Many of the written codes and stories in the magazine help to construct representations that

suggest women have a strong and powerful role in society and a powerful voice. Terms like ‘speaking

out’, ‘powerful voices’ and ‘revolution’, construct the ideology that women are a powerful and

inspirational force. Terms such as ‘admire’, ‘follow’ and ‘inspire’ present women as role models.

In the pages of issue 35 that there are few men present however, gender conventions are subverted across the
magazine. This is a deliberate editorial decision and links to the fact that Oh Comely is a niche product.

What does Oh Comely’s under-representation of men suggest?


The deliberately limited reference to men in Oh Comely reflects the feminist ideology of the

magazine. The absence of men connotes the importance of women as powerful, dominant figures.

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How do the images above construct positive representations of femininity?

The images of women that feature inside Oh Comely magazine are mediated to construct positive

representations of femininity. The majority of the images are captured via medium close-up shots

denying the audience opportunities to gaze upon their bodies. The women are not sexualized by

costume, hair and makeup. This subverts the typical tropes of mainstream magazines.

How is the story and anchorage about Fahma Mohammed used to


construct powerful messages about women?

Fahma is captured via a medium close up shot and positioned in

center of the frame. This connotes her importance and her direct

mode of address reinforces a sense of confidence. The written

codes describe her as ‘an unstoppable force’ constructing an

empowered representation of women.

How is the story and anchorage about Deanna Rodger used to construct
powerful messages about women?
Deanna is captured via a medium shot and positioned in center of

the frame. She is beneath a spot light and in the center of a

stage. This creates a sense of importance and suggests that she

is the center of attention. She is not sexualized, but celebrated

for her role as a poet.

How is the story and anchorage about Megan Jayne Crabbe used to
construct powerful messages about women?

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Megan is plus sized. This subverts typical representations of women and suggests that Oh Comely

does not conform to mainstream ideologies about beauty standards. Some audiences may see this as

a sexualized image, however, the fact that the article is about embracing body confidence,

suggests empowerment.

How is the story and anchorage about Amali De Alwis used to construct
powerful messages about women?

Amali is described as being a CEO of a tech company; a role

typically assigned to men. This empowers the female reader to

take on more responsibilities in the workplace, and reflects

positive and empowered representations through ideologies of

power and status.

Judith Butler: Gender Performativity


Judith Butler asserts that gender is not biologically determined but rather socially determined; learned through
society. She believes that gender is a performance.

List the behaviors that society teaches about what it is to be masculine and feminine?

Femininity Masculine

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 Submissive  Aggressive

 Passive  Independent

 Domesticated  Dominant

 Sensitive  Lack of emotion

 Nurturing  Hard working

How does the ‘Oh Comely’ set text subvert Judith Butler’s theory of Gender Performativity?
The women portrayed in Oh Comely subvert Butler’s theory of Gender Performativity in a number

of ways. The front cover display an androgynous model who is not feminized or sexualized in a

stereotypical way. The stories inside construct representations of strong, independent and

successful women who do not need the support of a man to achieve their goals. For example, Amali

who is the CEO of a tech company. The language used throughout the magazine challenges gender

stereotypes by portraying women as dominant and hardworking. There is a diverse range of gender

identities suggesting that gender is not binary. There is an article about gender fluidity which is

supported by uplifting and positive anchorage. All of this suggests that gender is not performed by

stereotypical traits, therefore subverting Butler’s theory.

Theories of Representation - Stuart Hall

In his book ‘Representations and the Media’ Hall describes three main approaches to Representations. These are
listed and described below:

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Reflective The reflective approach suggests that what we see and hear through the media is a
reflection of real life. This approach would have us believe that the producers are
taking something true and recreating it.

Intentional The intentional approach to representation suggests that representations are


created through the eyes of the producers. They are presenting their own view.

Constructionist The constructionist approach is a mixture of reflective and intentional. This


approach suggests that the meaning is constructed in the mind of the audience.

Consider the information above. Which approach to representation is best suited to ‘Oh Comely’ and why?

When considering Stuart Hall’s Representation Theory, it is clear that ‘Oh Comely’ avoids

stereotyping women in favour of a reflective approach to representation. The women portrayed

throughout the magazine reflect changing and modern gender constructs. This is an intentional

approach by the producers who want to showcase their feminist ideology and contribute to female

empowerment.

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Stuart Hall suggests that representations in the media are often constructed using stereotypes. To what extent
do you agree with this statement? Refer to your close study product ‘Oh Comely’ in your response.
[12 Marks]

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Representations of Ethnicity
When considering representations, we must think beyond representations of gender. Age, Ethnicity, Sexuality,
Issues and Events, are all key areas of representation.

‘Oh Comely’ offers a range of interesting representations of ethnicity. These representations are in-keeping with
the positive representations of women and reflect diverse ethnic backgrounds in a positive and empowered way.

How does the Meltem Avcil’s story construct a positive


representation of ethnicity?

The media often portrays asylum seekers in sad

and negative. We frequently see this is broadcast

and print media where asylum seekers are

represented as desperate, weak and poor. This is

frequently anchored with images that designed to

draw an empathetic emotional response from the

spectator.

Oh Comely subverts these negative stereotypes by

constructing a positive, healthy and happy

representation of Meltem. The highkey light and

happy facial expressions anchor the uplifting and

positive message which suggest that ‘every women

can build their life again if given that chance’. This

is a universal message and will resonate with all

audience members in some way.

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How does the Fahma Mohamed’s story construct a
positive representation of ethnicity?

Fahma Mohamed is Somali and is pictured in a

bright yellow headscarf. This choice of colour

immediately connotes happiness and positivity.

The headscarf rarely features in mainsteam

British and American media products as

producers tend to showcase hair as a symbol of

feminine beauty. Oh Comely is therefore

constructing a more inclusive representation of

gender and ethnicity by featuring a range of

women from diverse ethnic and cultural

backgrounds. Fahma’s story demonstrates

strength and positivity. This subverts the often-

negative representations of poverty, famine,

terrorism and war that are associated with this

region.

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Bell Hook’s

Bell hooks is a feminist writer and social activist who has


explored issues around race, social class and gender. Regarding
feminist theory as a historically middle-class concern, her
contemporary perspective identifies a kind of double or triple
oppression of women who are also black and/or working class.
She also advocates that feminism should be seen as the struggle
to end patriarchal oppression and the ideology of domination
(and that men need to participate in this process). Indeed,
Hook’s uses term ‘white supremacist, capitalist patriarchy’ to
describe all the oppressive factors in our society.

 According to hooks, white women are prioritized over all people of colour regardless of Gender.
 Wealth and class are also important factors in social hierarchy.
 Feminism, for it to be truly egalitarian, must also include equal representation of race and class.

Bell Hook’s suggests that representations of ethnically diverse women in the media are subject to double
oppression. To what extent do you agree with this statement? Refer to your close study product ‘Oh Comely’ in
your response.
[6 Marks]

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Audience

“Oh Comely is a powerful mix of words and pictures, stylishly presented and much loved by its readers. It provides
an alternative to the ‘pile-it-high-sell-it-cheap’ aesthetic of mainstream magazines for young women, and this is
why it has carved a loyal niche of fans. It is a breath of fresh air for a creative audience desperate to find something
that speaks to them directly in an accessible, intelligent and interesting voice.”

At first glance it can be difficult to determine the audience of Oh Comely and due to the very nature of it being a
niche product there is little precise data about the profile of its readership.

Profile Why
we can assume this due to much of the editorial content of
Gender
Women the magazine being mainly focused on and about women but

it does not rely on conventional gender definitions.

Age
Average age readership spans from 18-35, this is interestingly a young

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more digital and online media.

Social
Demographic Metropolitan ABC1 Oh Comely’s readers are mid to high earners predominantly
Scale
working in high level creative professions and they tend to

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be city dwellers.

Psychographic profiles are also a way of determining who is the audience for any given media product, unlike
demographic data this gives producers additional information.
Populate the chart below with information about how demographic and psychographic profiles are determined?

Demographics Psychographics

Lifestyle

Age/Gender Personality

Race Values

Location Attitudes

Employment Status Interests

Populate the chart below with information about how demographic and psychographic profiles are determined?

Psychographics Oh Comely Readers…

Personality Creative, free-thinkers, active social conscience, passionate about causes

Value Individuality, creativity, kindness, compassion, diversity

Attitude Reject consumerism/commercialism, pro-society, environmental campaigners

Interests Reading, education, current affairs, social issues, creative pursuits

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Lifestyles Urban dwellers, lifestyle focused, health conscious

Using the demographic and psychographic profiles of t h e Oh Comely audience as outlined above, create a
knowledge map of the audience incorporating both demographic and psychographic profile systems.

Oh Comely
Readers

Why do the specified audience chose to read Oh Comely?


Unlike most mainstream magazines Oh Comely does not exploit the insecurities of its audience,

they are not motivated by wanting to read about how they can become more fashionable, sexy,

beautiful etc. So why do the 10,000 plus readers buy the magazine?

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Applying Theory: Blumler and Katz
Blumler and Katz’s Uses and Gratifications theory says that audiences consume media texts to fulfil certain needs,
those being Diversion, Surveillance, Personal Identity and Personal Relationships.

How can we apply Uses and Gratifications theory to Oh Comely?

Diversion the articles and features in the magazine reflect the interests of their

readership, coupled with the interesting use of photography and imagery

ensures that the audience feel engaged and that the products is worthy

of consumption.

Surveillance the interviews in Oh Comely are informative and educating for the

readers and the range of features such as stories, recipes and interests

relate directly to the interests of this audience who will want to know

about women’s rights and feminist activities.

Personal Identity the essences of the magazine is that of a community of women who work

and think creatively and reading the magazine gives them access to a

network of likeminded women.

Personal relationships Due to the niche nature of this publication you could argue that this last

section is less relevant as there is a smaller fanbase which might not

provide much social interaction. However, it is likely that readers of this

magazine most probably are members of similar online communities.

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Audience Assessment Practice You can use these questions as 20 Mark practice questions. Continue on a
separate sheet.

How can you apply Stuart Hall’s theory to this magazine, what are the preferred, negotiated and oppositional
readings?

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The audience mostly fits into the AB Class classification, why is this a good thing for the long term of the
company?

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What impact might the fact that oh comely has a modern flexible attitude towards gender and sexuality have on
the magazine’s success?

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Industry

Mainstream media products are often constrained by their ownership. Large media organisations aim their
products at the largest possible global audience. They do this to maximise their profits. However, Oh Comely is a
small, independent magazine which is sold through independent stockists to extremely niche target audience.
This allows the magazine to proudly display their political and social views which they know will be shared by
their readers.

How does Oh Comely stay viable?

Producers of niche and independent media products are not necessarily motivated by making

massive profits, but they do need to make profit to remain in operation.

Oh Comely’s cover price is now £6.00 which is keenly priced for this type of specialist magazine, approximately
10,000 are sold each edition which means that the company receives about £60,000 per month and
therefore about £720,000 in the course of a year. From this you would need to take out costs of printing,
production and distribution, that would not leave much profit.

Considering the information above, how can Oh Comely generate revenue to offset their costs?
To increase their profits most magazines will take on board advertising and sell space in their

magazine to increase their income.

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However, despite the readership having high earning potential and working in professional jobs the magazine has
minimal advertising content.

Why do you think this is?

The editorial team have high standards and are very particular about the brands they promote

within the magazine. A further reason could be to protect the clean, minimal artistic appeal of

the magazine.

Social Media

Oh
Comely have a

presence on social media platforms such as Twitter, Facebook and Instagram however, they do not post content
online instead preferring their readers to buy the magazine.

What is the reason for this?

The magazine producers operate with clear ideology that does not promote social media. This is

because social media platforms contain many posts that objectify or sexualize women.

Why do you think that the audience might prefer a print copy to a digital copy of the magazine?

The high-end audience prefer a physical copy of the magazine because of its aesthetic appeal. It

allows them timeout from the hyper-real world of social media where they can enjoy something real.

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David Hasmondhalgh – Cultural Industries

Like most industries, art and culture has been turned into a product in order t o make money. Hasmondhalgh’s
research concludes that powerful media industries operate to maximse profit and minimize loss.

Tip: Arguing for or against a theory is an excellent way to score marks in exams. You do not always have to agree
with media theories and you should be aware that they do not always apply. That does not mean that they can be
used. In fact, you can present arguments suggesting that our media CSPs subvert theory. However, this must be
backed up with evidence from the chosen CSP.

Construct a paragraph that argues against the Cultural Industries theory.

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Web 2.0 has meant that independent media products have had a resurgence, prosumers can create and post their
own creations for free onto the Internet and they can then become successful. There seems to be a trend and
desire for more independent, original media to counteract the growing supremacy of the global companies.

Who is Henry Jenkins?

Henry Jenkins III is an American media scholar and Professor of Communication, Journalism, and

Cinematic Arts.

What is Jenkins Participatory Culture Theory?

Jenkins suggests that participatory culture, is an opposing concept to consumer culture. He explains

that private individuals do not act as consumers only, but also as contributors or producers.

How can we apply Jenkin’s theory to the magazine industry?

Initiatives like stackmagazine.com, an independent magazine subscription service emerging on to the

market has allowed small independent magazines created by prosumers to enter the marketplace.

This service sends a new indie magazine, like Oh Comely, every month to their customers so that

they can experience a wider variety of independent and niche products.

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