Embroidery Stitches

SECOND QUARTER:
NEEDLECRAFT: EMBROIDERY
CREATING EMBROIDERED
PRODUCTS WITH PACKAGE
Prepared by:
Mrs. Imelda M. De Castro
TOPICS
O1 BASIC EMBROIDERY STITCHES
O2 CALADO
O3 SMOCKING
01
BASIC EMBROIDERY
STITCHES
BASIC EMBROIDERY STITCHES
RUNNING STITCH
It is considered as the easiest stitch for
outlining. It is done by running the needle and
thread up and down the cloth at a regular
distance. Keeping the stitches consistent make
your work look beautiful.
RUNNING STITCH
THE STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE IN EMBROIDERY:
01. Bring the needle out at A.
02. Insert needle down at B.
03. Continue steps 1 and 2, working right to left
to make several running stitches.
BACK STITCH
It is the most often used to outline a
design. This stitch also forms the base line for
other embroidery stitches. It is made by taking
the thread backward than the conventional
forward motion, and thus the name.
BACK STITCH
It is a super-strong hand-stitch that can
replace machine stitching when required. The
length of the stitch depends highly on the size of
the pattern, though. A small pattern will call for
small stitches than a bigger pattern.
BACK STITCH
01. Bring the thread through
A and take it in through
B. This creates one
stitch.
BACK STITCH
02. Bring the thread through C
and take it in through B. This
way, we are creating a stitch
by taking the thread
backward.
BACK STITCH
03. Bring the thread through
D and take it in through
C. Continue this pattern
to finish the design.
BACK STITCH
04. A finished line of Back Stitch will look like this.
BLANKET STITCH
It is simple and easy, and a beauty. It is
used to stitch the edges of blankets. It not only
gives the blanket edges a nice look but also
secures them. This stitch is now used in many
other crafting projects, making it one of the most
sought after stitches.
BLANKET STITCH
01. Bring the needle out through A. Take
the needle in through B. Take it out
through C, a point in the same stitch
line as A. Loop the thread under the
needle as shown.
BLANKET STITCH
02. Pull out the needle.
Continue with this process
until the end of the line.
BLANKET STITCH
03. A portion of the finished
blanket stitch would
reveal like this.
BLANKET STITCH
04. The blanket stitch can be
given an interesting look by
just altering the length of the
vertical stitch as shown.
BULLION STITCH or BULLION KNOT
It is a single detached stitch that is used
for filling in a design area. Rows of bullion
stitches may also be used to outline a design. It is
recommended that one uses a needle with a
small eye for ease in pulling.
01. Bring the needle out
through A and put the
needle through B at the
desired length.
02. Now, bring the needle out through A again.
Then, wind the thread around the needle as
shown. The distance of the wound thread
should measure the same as the distance
between A and B. Too few wraps will spoil
the stitch.
03. Then, hold the wrapped thread with your fingers
and pull the needle out with the other finger.
Keep pulling the needle completely in an upward
direction till the wraps lay on the fabric as shown
above. Adjust and straighten the wraps if
required and put in the needle back through B.
04. The finished bullion
stitch would look like
this.
CHAIN STITCH
It is one of the most popular stitch used
for outlining. It gives a chain like an appearance
or, like petals lined up one after the other. It is
also one of the oldest known stitches that has
been used widely among various cultures from
Asia to Europe.
CHAIN STITCH
01. Bring the thread out through A.
Put the needle back in A and bring
it out through point B, but don’t
pull the needle out completely.
CHAIN STITCH
02. Now, take the thread
around the needle
from left to right to
form a loop.
CHAIN STITCH
03. Pull out the needle now to
tighten the loop and you
will get the first part of the
chain.
CHAIN STITCH
04. Now, put the needle in
through B (now inside the
loop) and bring it out on C
(outside of the loop).
CHAIN STITCH
05. Continue the action by taking the
thread around the back of the needle
from left to right to form a loop and
pull out the needle to get the next
loop of the chain. Keep on with this
procedure till the finish.
CROSS STITCH
It is formed by crossing two arms and may be
used for outlining, as borders or to fill an entire area. A
row of crosses can be done in two ways: The traditional
style, and The Danish style. In the traditional way makes
each cross at a time, the Danish way follows a process
where a row of diagonal stitches are done one way and
the crosses are finished on the way back.
CROSS STITCH (Traditional Style)
01. Bring the needle out through A
and take it diagonally across to B.
Bring it back again through C,
which lies vertically below A.
02. Now put the needle in
through D, which lies
vertically above B. You
have made a single cross.
03. Continue by putting the
needle in through E and
bring it out through the
previous point D.
04. Put the needle in through F to
complete the second cross. Now,
bring the needle out through the
previous point E to begin for the
third cross. Continue this process.
05. A row of cross stitch would appear like this. The
same technique is followed for a vertical row.
CROSS STITCH (Danish Style)
01. Make a row of diagonal
stitches as shown.
CROSS STITCH (Danish Style)
02. On the return journey, complete the
crosses by connecting the ends using
diagonal stitches as shown. A vertical
row can also be done using the same
technique.
FEATHER STITCH
It is a stitch with a loop and stitches evenly worked
on both left and right sides of a design area. It is a
decorative stitch, usually, used to accompany it with
embellishments or other forms of stitches like the French
knot. This stitch can be used literally to make beautiful
borders, horizontal or vertical fillings, or even designs with
curves. It looks like a series of interconnected ‘V’s.
FEATHER STITCH
01. Begin by bringing up the needle from B. Now,
put the needle in through D and bring it out
from C.
Note that the points on B and D falls on a
straight line, and C lies diagonally to both B and
D.
FEATHER STITCH
02. We now move to make our next ‘V’.
Continue to put the needle in through
A and bring it out through B. Pull the
needle out with the thread under it
as shown, to make the next ‘V’.
FEATHER STITCH
Now, continue the procedure by putting the needle in
03. through the outer stitch line and bringing it out from
the inner stitch line.
We keep alternating between the left and right side to
make the ‘V’s- putting in the needle through A and
bringing it out from B; putting the needle in through D
and bringing it out from C.
FEATHER STITCH
04. Once a small portion of the
Feather Stitch is done, this is
how it would look like.
FISHBONE STITCH
It is a kind of filling stitch which is ideal for
making leaves or feathers. It requires us to divide
the pattern into two and each side is filled
alternately giving it a plaited effect in the center,
thus ideal to make leaves or feathers.
FISHBONE STITCH
01. To begin with, bring the needle
out through point A, which is the
top tip of line Y. Put it in through
B, to make a single straight stitch.
FISHBONE STITCH
02. Now, bring the needle out from a point
very close to A on the line X. Put it in
through a point very close to B on line Y.
Again pull out the needle through a point
very close to A on line Z.
FISHBONE STITCH
03. This procedure of putting in the
needle through X and Z
alternatively will follow. Each time
we will be connecting X-Y and Y-Z.
FISHBONE STITCH
04. Make sure all the stitch
points lie close to each other
to avoid any visible spaces.
FISHBONE STITCH
05. Halfway through, our leaf
would look like this. You can
see the rib being formed.
FISHBONE STITCH
06. Once finished, the filled leaf
would look like this.
FRENCH KNOT
It is a single detached stitch used primarily
to fill in a design area. This stitch can be used to do
little flowers or as a filling stitch to fill in small
circles in the center of flowers. French Knots can
give a ‘woolly’ appearance and can be used as
design.
FRENCH KNOT
01. Bring the needle out through A.
FRENCH KNOT
01. Bring the needle out through A.
02. Now, place the needle close to
the fabric. Wrap the thread
around it twice, as shown.
FRENCH KNOT
03. Keep the longer end of the thread
pulled with your fingers while
putting the needle back in a point
just close to A. This is probably what
you have to master.
FRENCH KNOT
04. Pull down the needle
through the fabric. You will
see your first French Knot
formed.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
It is a basic overlapping stitch popular for
its use in borders. It is so named as it resembles
the bones extending from the spine of a herring
fish.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
01. Bring the needle out through the first stitch
line at A. Now, take the needle in through
B, which lies diagonally across A on the
second stitch line. Then, take the needle
back out through C, which lies near B.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
02. Now, the same procedure will be
worked on the first stitch line.
Take the needle diagonally
across to D and bring the needle
back out through E.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
03. Continue to make such crosses on
both stitch lines alternately. Make
sure the diagonal stitches are
parallel to each other to bring out
the best look.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
04. A finished sequence of the
Herringbone Stitch would
look like this.
LAZY DAISY CHAIN STITCH
It is also called detached chain stitch. It is often
used to make petal shapes and small leaf patterns. It
consists of a single loop of chain than a continuous
pattern. It is also one of the extremely easy stitches.
This stitch need not be limited to just petals and leaves
but can be used for more complicated designs.
01. Bring the thread out through A. Put in the
needle near A and bring it out through
point B, but don’t pull the needle out
completely. Now, loop the thread around
the needle, like we would in chain stitch.
02. Pull out the needle out to tighten
the loop. Put in the needle just
outside the chain created and
that will finish the lazy daisy
stitch.
03. This stand-alone stitch can be used
freely to be a part of any design. Since
I have decided to make a flower, I will
proceed with making multiple lazy
daisies around the marked stitch line.
04. The completed flower is
made of multiple lazy
daisies.
LOOPED STITCH
It is a decorative stitch that can be
experimented with threads for various colors over
borders. Close layers of this stitch can create
wonderful effects on a pattern. This stitch is just a
variety of the running stitch. It incorporates the
technique of Chinese stitch or Pekinese stitch.
LOOPED STITCH
01. Lay the foundation by doing a
running stitch. Take a contrasting
colored thread and bring it out
from near the first running stitch.
LOOPED STITCH
02. Start following the Pekinese
stitch technique. Take the needle
in through the second stitch and
come out through the first,
making a loop.
LOOPED STITCH
03. Continue this action of
‘looping’ using the running
stitch foundation, as
illustrated.
LOOPED STITCH
04. Finish up the pattern for it to look like this.
SATIN STITCH
It is a solid filling stitch that is used to cover a
design area with long, straight stitches worked very
close together. It also called damask stitch. The term
satin stitch derives its name from its similarity to the
shiny appearance of satin cloth, especially when a floss
silk or a mercerized cotton thread is used for the
embroidery.
SATIN STITCH
01. Bring the needle out through A and
put it in through B. So, that makes
a stitch which covers a small area
between the stitch lines.
SATIN STITCH
02. Now, bring the needle back
through C, a point very close
to A. Continue this action
over the two stitch lines.
SATIN STITCH
03. Once finished, the area is filled as
shown above. You will be spending as
much thread on the reverse side as
you do on the actual side of the fabric.
SPLIT STITCH
It is done using thick threads, such as wool. It is
used as an outlining stitch or as a filling stitch. Looking
back into history, the Split stitch has its popularity
placed at high, during the medieval ages in England.
The needlework of this time was called Opus
Anglicanum.
SPLIT STITCH
01. Bring out the thread
through A and put it in
through B.
SPLIT STITCH
02. Take the needle backward to
bring it out through C. Note
that C lies halfway between A
and B.
SPLIT STITCH
03. While bringing out the
thread through C, take it in
between the thread, splitting
it into two.
SPLIT STITCH
04. Again, put the needle in
through D to bring it out
through B, splitting the
thread.
SPLIT STITCH
05. Continue this procedure to finish the
stitch. The only thing to keep in
mind is to split the thread when
bringing the needle out. In some
way, it will give you a visual feel of
chain stitch.
SPLIT STITCH
06. The reverse of the fabric will give you a
back stitch pattern.
SEED STITCH
It is also known as the rice grain stitch. It uses
simple straight stitches in a single direction to fill in
patterns. It has shorter stitches above the fabric and
longer stitches on the reverse side. They look like
strawberry seeds, probably, which inspired its name.
SEED STITCH
01. Make rows of short Running Stitches
as illustrated. You need not do row
after row, as long as the strawberry
seed pattern is more or less
maintained.
SEED STITCH
02. Try not to bend with the curves
of the pattern. The rows of
running stitch should essentially
be done in straight lines.
STEM STITCH
It is basically an outline stitch. This stitch is
usually used for flower stems and outlines. Rows of
stem stitch worked closely together within a shape
until it is filled completely. It is actually one of the
easiest to be done and perhaps even one of the first
stitches to be taught to any beginner.
STEM STITCH
01. Bring out the thread through A and
take it in through B. Take the
needle backwards and bring the
thread out through C. Make sure
the point C lies over the stitch A-B.
STEM STITCH
02. You need to note that the point C lies
about halfway through A and B. Also
note that C lies on top of the stitch A-
B. So, all the subsequent stitch points
will lie on top of their previous stitch.
STEM STITCH
03. Take the needle in through D. Try
to mark D in such a way that the
point B will lie halfway through C-
D. Bring the needle out through B.
STEM STITCH
04. So, the pattern of two
stitches of the stem
stitch will be as shown
above.
STEM STITCH
05. Continue this pattern of
stitching with the needle
coming out through the
top of the previous stitch
always.
STEM STITCH
06. The reverse of the fabric will give you a back stitch
pattern.
TOPICS
O2 CALADO
O3 SMOCKING
02
CALADO
CALADO
It is drawn work embroidery which the
Philippines is noted for. Fine and even weave cloth is
best suited for this.
The Philippines was already known in Europe
and other places throughout the world for its fine,
intricate embroidery work even far back as the 19th
century.
CALADO
It is a distinctive feature of our Barong Tagalog. This
is a well-known Lumban style of embroidery in which the
fibers are pulled out from the fabric to reduce the fiber
count, and the remaining intact fibers are then stitched
together into a variety of open thread work patterns. It
creates intricacy and adds texture. It also creates depth
that make a specific pattern or design element look
prominent and defined.
CALADO
THE STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE FOR BEGINNERS:
01. Draw the design on a sheet of paper.
02. Using one of the methods of design transfer,
transfer it to the wax paper.
03. With a fine needle, perforate the design.
CALADO
04. Print the design on fabric using a mixture of
kerosene, alcohol and blue dye.
05. Set the work in a bastidor or embroidery hoop,
then apply Calado stitching on the areas requiring
this.
CALADO
06. All around the work, apply scallop endging design.
07. Soak and wash the work then set into the
banatan, a rectangular embroidery frame to
stretch and even out the material.
TOPICS
O2 CALADO
O3 SMOCKING
03
SMOCKING
SMOCKING
It is a decorative embroidery or shirring
especially designed to control fullness in garments by
gathering the fabric in regularly spaced tucks held in
place with fancy stitches. It is an interesting design
feature in a variety of articles but is popularly used for
children’s women’s clothing.
SMOCKING
It is commonly applied to areas of clothing with
simple rectangular patterns such as the neckline,
yoke, sleeve hem and cuffs. It was also practical for
garments to be both form fitting and flexible, hence
its name derives from smock a farmer’s work shirt. It
was most extensively used in the 18th and 19th
centuries.
SMOCKING
BASIC METHODS:
• REGULAR SMOCKING
The dots are marked on the right side
of the fabric before smocking stitches are
formed from dot to dot, gathering the fabric
in each stitch.
SMOCKING
BASIC METHODS:
• ENGLISH SMOCKING
The dots are marked on the wrong side
of the fabric before the rows of uneven
running stitches are worked from dot to dot,
forming small pleats.
SMOCKING
BASIC METHODS:
• ENGLISH SMOCKING
This process is referred to as pre-
gathering. The stitches are then worked on
the right side of the fabric with a small stitch
taken at each pleat previously.
SMOCKING
BASIC TOOLS AND MATERIALS:
• Soft, light weighted fabric like cotton, lawn and
soft wool are most suitable as these fabrics
gather easily
• Crewel or chenille needles from 5 to 7
• Pearl cotton or embroidery floss
SMOCKING
BASIC TOOLS AND MATERIALS:
• You’ll also need grid to guide you as you work.
The grid is marked on the fabric evenly spaced
dots. Hot-iron transfer sheets of the grid.

Embroidery Stitches

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