Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Supervisor's Certificate of Approval
Supervisor's Certificate of Approval
This is to certify that the research work described in this thesis is the original work
of Shahid Imtiaz department of English Govt. Islamia College Railway Road Lahore and
has been carried out under my direct supervision. I have personally gone through all the
details in the manuscript and certify its contents and authenticity. I further certify that the
material included in this thesis has not been used in part or full in a manuscript already
any degree from any other institution. I also certify that the thesis has been prepared
under my supervision according to the prescribed format and I endorse its evaluation for
the award of Ph.D degree through the official procedure of the University.
Signature
Name
Designation
iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
and encouraged me to complete this thesis. I consider myself fortunate to have a scholarly
and learned advisor, Dr. Waseem Anwar. Without his professional commitment,
dedication and devotion, this research would have been impossible. I owe him a lot.
English Language and Literature University of the Punjab Lahore for her generous
encouragement and criticism at every stage of my research. I have benefited a lot from
her scholarship, learning and experience. She gave me perhaps the greatest gift a teacher
and a mentor can give to a student. She believed in me and encouraged me to believe in
Friends and colleagues in the Department of English Language and Literature have
always supported and inspired me. I especially want to thank Dr. Amra Raza for her help
in the technicalities of notes and references and for her precious time she gave to me for
discussions. Especial thanks to Pro Zareena Saeed for being a source of encouragement
and help. The idea to initiate research on Lahore came to my mind after a profound
I owe special thanks to Pro. Sajjad Haidar Malik, my friend and colleague, who gave
me a lot of encouragement when the chips were down in the course of my research. His
profound respect in all of us who were fortunate enough to come into close contact with
him. He led me through the intricacies of English Language. His company has shaped my
intellectual and professional life for the better. I am also indebted to Pro. Riaz Hussain,
my teacher and colleague at FC College Lahore, who helped me make sense of Lahore’s
iv
past. Discussions with him revealed the fascination and magic of the ancient city and the
beauty of colonial Lahore. I am also indebted to Dr. Tahir Kamran, Chairman Department
of History GCU Lahore currently Iqbal Chair at Cambridge University for his help in
getting the much needed material for my research. He has been extraordinarily generous
with both encouragement and criticism at every step of my research. I have benefited
much from his knowledge of the history of Lahore. His learned and scholarly company
has always been a source of intellectual pleasure for me. I also owe a lot to my colleages,
Professor Anis Ikram Fitrat, Professor Saleem Mansur Khalid and Professor Nisar Butt
for their help and support during my research. Professor Mona Malik has been my main
support and inspiration during the hard days of my work on my topic. I would like to
parents, though, my mother is no longer with me, but I am sure that she would be
watching me from her heavenly abode and would be extremely happy and satisfied with
the completion of my research. Without the prayers of my father this research of mine
would not have been possible. So I owe special thanks to him. I am also thankful to my
wife Sonia and children, Farid, Uzair and little darling Sara for bearing me during my
research with lot of patience. Special thanks to my brother Abid and sisters, Afshan Nasir
and Taskeen Imtiaz for their prayers and Arzoo and her husband in London who sent me
much needed books to make it possible for me to complete my thesis. Last but not the
least; I would like to thank my real uncle, Brigadier (Rtd) S. Ifzal Hussain for his concern
Thanks are due also to the staff and directors of the Punjab Public Library Lahore, the
Quaid-e-Azam Library Lahore, the Dyal Sing Trust Library Lahore, the Punjab Provincial
Archives Lahore, The GCU Library Lahore, the Ewing Memorial Library Lahore and The
v
of the Punjab Lahore who were always helpful in providing me with the books I needed
the most. Special thanks to Mobeen Ahmad for keeping my computer in running
condition during my research. I am also thankful to Rashid sahib and Liaquat sahib from
the office of the Department of English Language and Literature for providing me with
PREFACE
This study is primarily a literary discourse upon Lahore to discover its amorphous
nature. It is really unfortunate that with all its historical and literary importance very little
In the light of its historical and literary significance, Lahore needs to be explored in
terms of its literature so that the world should come to know of its significance as a place
and the body of literature written about it. The research would not only inspire the
historians interested in its history to look for new historical interpretations, but also
provide the creative writers with the much needed impetus to write about it, making it a
locale of their writings. This kind of study would also prove beneficial in looking at the
city as it existed in the colonial times, and the changes which have occurred in the
postcolonial era. It would open up new angles and perspectives to examine the perception
of the colonial writers leading upto such questions as did they perceive the city in its true
colour and spirit or was their perception coloured by the biases and prejudices?
This thesis is certainly objective oriented and its objectives are broad based. One of its
main purposes is to highlight the historical importance of Lahore. To see a link between
the ancient and the modern city in order to emphasise its amorphousness and to bring it to
the world literary map giving it the importance in world literature it deserves. Another
aim is to see the locale of Lahore as a changing metaphor of values, traditions and
conventions. The range of its scope is wide. It covers history, etymology, culture,
ABSTRACT
Lahore has been the cradle of civilization and culture since antiquity: a space where
various communities and peoples have mingled together, a rendezvous of varied ways of
life, enriching its cultural, social, literary and religious life. The multifarious and diverse
aspects of its culture and civilization get itself reflected in the architectural structures,
folklore and literature. The locale of Lahore has always inspired the mystics, the
musicians and the creative writers to give went to their ideas, thoughts and expressions. It
has been the capital of various dynasties, cultural and political nerve centre and
administrative headquarter of various governments in the annals of its history. It has been
captured, occupied, destroyed and raised several times throughout its history but it never
lost its beauty and splendour of its culture and remained a city of civilization.
This research is focused upon Lahore as an amorphous city, both in the colonial and
postcolonial times. It takes into consideration the historical forces, the specific factors and
the plurality of social, political, architectural and religious ideas, concepts and thoughts
which have gone a long way to make Lahore an amorphous city throughout the various
stages of its history. This is neither a chronological history of Lahore nor a sequential
narration of fiction written in English on and about the city. Lahore has been chosen for
exploration and examination for being an amorphous city in the Sub-continent for specific
etymological, historical, cultural, social, religious, political and architectural reasons. The
strategic location of Lahore, it has been an invade-able city since the first invasion of the
city of diverse cultures, political, social and religious ethos. The amalgamation of all
these diversified elements and components has gone a long way of making what Lahore is
viii
today. No other city in the Sub-continent, no matter how ancient that may be, can claim to
Contrary to its general and specific meanings in the area and field of science, the
word ‘amorphous’ has been used and explored with special reference to literature, history
and culture of Lahore. This research, therefore, can claim to discover and explore a new
dimension of the word, concept and idea of ‘amorphous.’ While discovering this new
dimension of the idea of amorphous in culture and literature, no claim of coining a new
forward. Although, some theories of Orientalism and Ambivalence and other related
concepts of the postcolonial theorists and scholars have been studied and examined here
to present and explain my own interpretation and findings of the idea of ‘amorphous,’ yet,
the research remains focused on revealing the amorphous nature of Lahore and is not
This research, on the other hand, is an attempt to answer a question. Can a city be
amorphous? In order to look for the answer I have ransacked and gone through the history
of Lahore, its legends, folklore and prose writings in English which also include fiction
with Lahore as a locale and memoirs of those whose emotional association and
attachment with Lahore has still remained unquestionably strong and unassailable. The
dust of time has not been able to clean the prints and images of glorious Lahore of their
audience of scholars and researchers of history, culture and literature I have specifically
analysed those novels of colonial and postcolonial writers where Lahore is the locale of
action. For my research I have confined myself to English prose writings only. Though,
references to English poetry and romances concerning the locale of Lahore are mentioned
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in this research, yet no thorough analysis of these genres has been made. A
comprehensive and exhaustive study and analysis of the relevant novels from Dina Nath’s
The Two Friends: A Descriptive Story of Lahore Life (1899) to Mohsin Hamid’s Moth
Smoke (2000) with Lahore as a locale serves the purpose of this research effectively.
Bapsi Sidhwa’s Ice-Candy Man holds a significant space in my research as the novel
focuses the factors and forces just before and after the partition of the Sub-continent in
1947, profoundly and deeply affecting the city of Lahore making it amorphous. This
novel is also pivot of my research on Lahore as an amorphous city as it covers both the
colonial and the postcolonial scenario successfully. In addition to novels and memoirs
other prose writings focusing Lahore have also been reviewed, examined and analysised.
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Annex IV
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CERTIFICATE --------------------------------------------------------------------- ii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ------------------------------------------------------ iii
PREFACE --------------------------------------------------------------------------- vi
ABSTRACT ------------------------------------------------------------------------- vii
INTRODUCTION ----------------------------------------------------------------- 01
PART I
The Idea of Amorphous
PART II ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19
Literature Review
End Notes -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23
CHAPTER ONE ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 25
The Making of Lahore: A Historical Survey of the idea of Amorphousness
End Notes -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 82
CHAPTER TWO --------------------------------------------------------------------- 84
Situating Lahore in the Colonial Time: An analysis of Dina Nath’s The Two
Friends: A Descriptive Story of the Lahore Life and Rudyard Kipling’s Kim
End Notes -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 139
CHAPTER THREE--------------------------------------------------------------------- 140
Transition from Colonial to Postcolonial: Things Fall Apart: An analysis of
Bapsi Sidhwa’s Ice-Candy-Man and The Bride
CHAPTER FOUR ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 210
Situating Lahore in the Postcolonial Time: An analysis of Bapsi Sidhwa’s An American
Brat, Sara Suleri’s Meatless Days and Mohsin Hamid’s Moth Smoke.
CONCLUSION ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------- 255
WORKS CITED---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 256
BIBLIOGRAPHY. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 262
1
INTRODUCTION
Part I
cultural and literary studies. Amorphous as a term is mostly and frequently used in the
field of science. Generally speaking, the word amorphous means having no real or
apparent crystalline form, no clear shape, structure and boundaries. Contrary to its general
usage and meaning I have used amorphous with special and specific reference to history,
amorphous and confined myself only to English prose writings which include novels and
answer a central question, can a city be amorphous? If so, what could those cultural,
social, historical, political, physical, architectural and literary factors, forces or trends be
After exploring the history of Lahore, its folklores, legends and fiction in English
language of the twentieth century where Lahore develops as a locale, I have endeavoured
to ferret out, uncover and expose the amorphous nature of the city. To me amorphousness
is a combination and amalgamation of similar and dissimilar, fixity and fluidity, different
things coming together to merge as a floating structure, possibly a physical shape of its
own kind, which is not permanent, amorphous then also transforms into a cultural pattern,
apparently, explicitly and at the surface level fixed, yet underneath, fluid, volatile,
violently active and non-static; ultimately falling apart and collapsing into new images of
cycle of construction and integration. The things invisible and hidden under the surface
disturb, upset and topple the existing form, cultural, religious, social and physical. The
new form or pattern which replaces the displaced one combines in itself the features,
characteristics and qualities of the previous pattern. The new shape and form of the city,
therefore, always imbibe, seldom reject or discard everything associated with the previous
pattern of things. They are adopted, twisted and absorbed generously to create new
physical, architectural, cultural, social and religious rings of a new pattern. My research
would also spotlight those forces and factors that have shaped, de-shaped and re-shaped
This thesis is an effort to probe deeper into the multi-dimensional and multi-faceted
core of amorphousness in order to reach, grapple and comprehend one aspect, one
dimension of it where some glimpses and glimmers of some kind of physical structure,
cultural and social patterns and religious thinking may be seen paradoxically taking,
visible, yet in-visible, tangible, yet in-tangible shape of their own kind. Despite its
3
paradoxes, parallels, contradictions and contrasts amorphous should not be confused with
Given my study on Lahore I can make a claim that other than Lahore no city in the
present time, Lahore has seen, experienced and witnessed dramatic and momentous
diverse layers of culture, civilization, religious ethos, political thoughts and architectural
In general and in particular as well amorphous might have its own histories,
etymological, linguistic, scientific, etc etc, but I have tried to explore it as mentioned
before, with reference to cultural, social, literary, political and religious contexts and
perspective limiting it to the city of Lahore. Before I proceed on further to present and
elaborate my own concept of what amorphous is, it is imperative and vital for me to pick
on some of the debate about the nature of amorphous as examined by other critics and
theorists in particular with reference to South Asia. Sara Suleri in her article “Amorphous
India: Questions of Geography” published in South West Review has also broached upon
the idea of amorphousness. Her major description is about a specific space and
geography, called India. For an elaboration of her idea she focuses on two texts on India,
Forster’s A Passage to India and Naipaul’s An Area of Darkness whose critical analysis
falls outside my thesis over here as they do not take up Lahore as their topic but discuss
India in general. Suleri, however, has built up her thesis on those narratives in English
which have high claims of representing India. In Suleri’s perspective their failure of
twentieth century English narratives regarding India, in fact, re-enact the drama of
nineteenth century British domination over India. The idea behind this intention is to
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portray and depict the intangibilities, vagueness and elusiveness which the West associate
with the East in a more logical and lucid way. This leads them to a point where they
“empty the area out of history, and represent India as an amorphous state of mind that is
only remembered in order for it be to forgotten” (389). Hence the geography of India is
dislocated and then an attempt is made here and an effort there to relocate it in the
imagination of the West. Such narratives focused on the Indian theme also try to “name
prone to spill into atmospherics rather than remaining fixed in the place to which it
belongs” (389). In fact, the Western writers approach India as their topic of study with
preconceived and fixed notions of the East. Consequently, they dismantle and dislocate
the space, geography in the case of the Sub-continent, India, in order to relocate it in
accordance with their own concepts of the East in totality. The real India, therefore, is
rendered unreal and replaced by an India which is the creation of a Western creative
Indeed, the Western mind approaches the non-Western world with preconceived
The motive may be to establish the superiority of the European mind over the non-
European one. Ever since the 16th century, the Europeans always desired to be there in
India, a land which invariably lured them not only as a land of strange people and riches,
always fascinated them as a land of opportunities for trade and commerce, but also made
them imagine that they would face very little resistance once they touch the shores of
India. The relationship which was conceived between the West and India was the one in
which the West always had an upper hand. Resultantly, India had become an interesting
topic of discussion and display in the West. Books on and about India were written in a
variety of fields, sociology, anthropology, political science, history and literature. There
5
were diaries of civil and military colonial officials who served the British Raj in India,
notebooks, official documents, stories by the white women of their own experience in
India and a great body of literature on India. All this created a new India, the creation of
English mind and imagination steeped in superiority complex. The English writers,
thinkers and scholars like E.M.Forster and those men of letters and writers who were
influenced by them and their hegemonistic ideas like V.S.Naipual not only misread and
therefore misrepresented the colonized, in the case of Sub-continent the Indians, but also
transformed the historical and geographical reality, India, into an imaginary existence.
Suleri, therefore, has mentioned the obvious when she says that to the English, India
ceases to be geography of reality and becomes an amorphous state of mind. But the fact
which has been overlooked and ignored by the West is that India has always been a
political, geographical and cultural reality and that it never did and even today does not
exist in a vacuum.
unreal. It goes beyond geography and space into more comprehensive realms of culture,
Suleri’s notion of amorphousness has been analyzed and revisited by some scholars
researchers have not studied Lahore as an amorphous city, though they have explored the
concept of ambivalence and Suleri’s notion of darkness as amorphous. But let us see what
6
“complex mix of attraction and repulsion that characterizes the relationship between the
colonizer and the colonized” (12). The relationship becomes ambivalent because the
note that some of the colonized subjects are resistant and others are complicit which
makes the relationship between the colonized and the colonizer a fluctuating one. For
because it disrupts the simple relationship between colonizer and colonized” (13). The
colonial discourse lands into a difficult situation as it intends to create compliant subjects
who in return are expected to mimic the colonizer but the irony is that instead of
compliant subjects, such ambivalent subjects are produced whose mimicry is very close
(13). Robert Young while expressing his view on the ambivalence of Bhabha says:
sameness which slips into otherness, but which still has nothing to
its own destruction without any foreign intervention. In his introduction of The Location
Bhabha, in fact, throws light on how the process of cultural discourse takes place when
two contradictory and opposite groups, classes come into clash with each other. As a
result of that clash, some “new signs of identity” take place “in – between spaces.” And
these new signs of identity” may be called hybrid culture, the outcome of the clash
between the two groups. In this process a society is also defined, a society where the
opposites, the colonizer and the colonized act, react and interact. Bhabha’s concept of
culture is strongly and deeply linked with his idea of nation. He challenges the idea of a
the production of meaning and ensures, at the same time, that meaning is
Ramos while discussing Bhabha’concept of culture in his article “Homi Bhabha: The
culture, far from being the simple, oppressive force upon the
Anwar’s recent unpublished article based on his talks at Duke and various other
some of the concepts of Homi Bhabha, representation difference, nation and culture,
mimicry, mockery, hybridity and above all ambivalence, Anwar gets engages himself in a
dialogue with Bhaba’s idea of nationhood and traces if the emerging in Pakistan still stays
‘ambivalent’ or has grown amorphous or even beyond! And then he claims that “I coin
and propose the amorphous and its divergent possible connotations as a literary term, a
theoretical concept to foreground and address the ‘real’ about Pakistani systems –
Anwar may be justified in his argument, but my thesis is not aimed at converting the idea
of amorphousness into any post or post-postcolonial theoretical space nor to link it with
research is to analyze Lahore as an amorphous city in the colonial and postcolonial era,
references to such theories and to Orientalism have been incorporated in the main body of
Let us move from the idea of amorphous and its interpretations by theorists to a
very brief survey of British occupation of Indian cities. This shall further help us to see
why Lahore as an amorphous city becomes the thesis statement of my research. The
natives, of building new cities of trade and commerce and of modernizing the ancient
centers of culture and civilization. The drama of colonization started from Surat, in the
western India where the East India Company had set up a post in the fall of 1612 after it
had sought permission from the Mughal Emperor Jahangir ( 1569-1627). The eight
corporation would have never thought even in their wildest of dreams that by constructing
a post they were laying the foundation of one of the greatest colonies, the biggest jewel in
the British crown, India. From subduing Bengal in the early 17th century to the annexation
10
of the Punjab in 1849, the colonization of India in fact can be studied as a wonderful story
During the British rule over India, Indian cities like Bombay2, Culcutta3, Madras4,
Delhi5, Agra6 and Lahore emerged as symbols of British colonial power on the one hand,
and on the other, centres of unique culture, architecture and life style. Amongst these
cities, Culcutta, Madras and Bombay were in the colonial era and are even today
predominantly British colonial cities in terms of their culture, architecture, and thinking
as British colonial imagination has shaped them into what they are. Delhi and Agra,
though oral literature and history mention these cities as ancient cities of the Hindus, were
the centres of Muslim culture and civilization before the arrival of the British in India.
After destroying Delhi to its foundations in 1857, when the British had captured it from
the mutineers, they did not rebuild it and left it into shambles. Delhi and Agra remained
the capital cities of Muslin rule over India during the Delhi Sultanate period7 and the
Mughal rule8 and rose to unprecedented glory and splendour which they never had before.
My research on Lahore leads me to state that Lahore is unique amongst these Indian
cities not for the fact that it came under the British control rather late in 1849 when they
had annexed the Punjab; Lahore was then the capital of the kingdom of Ranjit Singh. I
have chosen Lahore because the strategic location of the city renders it as an invadeable
city since the time of the Aryans in the Punjab in 1500 BC to the British occupation of the
city in 1849. Every invader who occupied Lahore and brought it under his rule and
subjugation added new architectural design to its old structures initiated new cultural and
social, practices, religious ethos and political philosophies. Most of the invaders came
from Central Asia and Asia Minor. They brought along with them the customs, culture
and social practices, religious and political ideologies and life style of their own areas.
The merger of the local and indigenous element with that of the alien and the foreign
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created a peculiar and unique culture, exotic, strange and mysterious, having its
components so varied, diversified and different. Consequently, Lahore had become a city
of people belonging to a variety of races, ethnic and linguistic groups of different cultural
contradictory, similar and dissimilar elements, forces and ideas has created an amorphous
Lahore, a unique city which has remained adherent to its fundamental characteristic and
To me Lahore is unique as there is so much mystery attached to its very name and
history and that legends, folktales and songs sung at the banks of the river Ravi celebrate
Lahore as a battleground of great heroes. It has appeared in the fiction written in English,
diaries and documents of various travelers whose hearts were captured and captivated by
the magic and appeal that Lahore had for them as an exotic city. It is unique because it
was the only Indian city before 1947, the year Pakistan came into being, which had been
ruled by the Hindus, the Muslims, the Sikhs and the British one after the other. It also had
the distinction of being the capital city and a citadel where the Hindu Rajas, the Muslim
kings and the Sikh Maharajas held their courts. Lahore was the provincial headquarter
during the British Raj as well. Therefore, the kind of cultural, religious, social, literary,
and architectural milieu which Lahore developed, as a result of interaction of ideas and
concepts emerging and oozing out of these dynasties and empires, has bestowed upon the
city a distinction, a color and a characteristic of its own kind, a specific amorphousness
which the other Indian cities neither experienced, nor imbibed and which had become the
My research further informs me that the very name Lahore involves amorphousness
as it never had a fixed name and has been known by various names through out its
history. Resultantly, the real city of Lahore has remained hidden in the fog and mist of
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rhythmically like the wave of an ocean but never lost its charm and characteristics of a
real city. It is this strange and mysterious mergence and mixing of real, unreal, visible and
invisible that makes Lahore an amorphous city. And above all, Lahore always had a
character throughout its history and that it always had the features, characteristics and
qualities of a city.
Even modern Lahore has retained some its ancient features and characteristics.
Today’s Lahore, the Florence9 of the Sub-continent, is the second largest city of Pakistan
with a population of roughly 8.5 million. It is called the city of gardens and colleges, a
cradle of cultural, intellectual, literary and political movements. Its busy and bustling
bazaars, bewitching buildings and edifices, an amalgamation of the ancient and the
modern architectural design, make it a city of mystic atmosphere, contrast and surprise.
Although, the city houses and accommodates a great variety of people belonging to
various racial and cultural groups and economic and financial background, inhabiting the
shanties and the palatial houses, yet what welds them together is the Lahori spirit which
pervades the slum and the posh areas giving the city a distinct character and quality in the
whole Sub-continent. It is this Lahori spirit that combines the similar and the dissimilar
aspects of Lahori life in all its manifestations. The people of Lahore, traditionally called
the zinda dilan-e-Lahore, are so vibrant, so enthusiastic, so zealous and so energetic that
they never let any opportunity slip away to enjoy life to the brim.
Lahore, undoubtedly, is a historical city. Its crumbling structures, edifices and once
awe inspiring architecture are the signs of glory and splendor which once Lahore was.
The city has witnessed the downfall of various dynasties since its foundation. From the
Rajput rule to the British rule, Lahore tells us a tale of gruesome occupations, of enduring
culture and civilization, of mighty rulers and of their tragic and painful decline. It is a
13
unique city, attacked, destroyed yet never deserted. Its residents have always displayed a
unique kind of zest and zeal for life, determination to rebuild their beloved city out of the
ruins and ashes after every disaster and calamity it has undergone. Lahore has always
risen as a new city from its debris like the mythical Phoenix which burns itself to ashes
and then is reborn again after evry five hundred years. From a Hindu city of narrow and
stingy streets, buildings of mud and rigid culture it was amorphosized into a Muslim city
workmanship and a city of ‘hundred gardens’. Since then it has not lost its Muslim
character though it has been occupied and ruled over by the Sikhs and the British
respectively after the Muslim rule came to an end in the Punjab in the 1760s. The Sikhs
took Lahore from the Muslims and lost it to the British in 1849. The British after the
annexation of the Punjab in 1849 remapped Lahore in accordance with the colonial
desire. The British gave it a colonial color and amorphosized it into a modern colonial
city, gave it a modern look and shape and initiated the process of urbanization which
A unique quality of Lahore, since its foundation, has been its characteristic
amorphousness, its physical development and expansion in various times of its history
and its cultural resilience to survive the ravages of time. Its ability to absorb and
continually frame the shapeless, to adhere to its original character of expansion and
absorption, to reflect and retain its indefiniteness and above all to accommodate the
customs and historical and temporal changes, has been an astonishing historical fact.
Since its foundation, it has understandably not only changed physically but also
cosmopolitan modern city, the provincial headquarter of the Punjab, Lahore has seen
different periods of rise and fall, ebb and flow and destruction and construction. The
14
ancient structures and edifices, the mosques and the domes of the Mughal era, the
churches and the official and commercial buildings, the educational institutions and the
hospitals of the British times and the modern construction after 1947 particularly in the
1990s speak volumes of Lahore as a city which constantly changed its face yet retained
Lahore existed as a city before Akbar, the Mughal Emperor, made it his capital in
1572. It had already witnessed various Hindu and Muslim mighty dynasties before, yet it
gained unprecedented glory in every field of life, trade, commerce, arts, architecture,
culture and civilization during the Mughal rule. Abul Fazl, one of the nine jewels of
Akbar speaks of Lahore of that time: “It was a very populous city, the resort of people of
all nations and a centre of extensive commerce…” (Latif 32). It was in Lahore that Akbar
developed a liberal and enlightened approach towards other religious faiths. He not only
encouraged religious tolerance but also promoted a rarified and academic atmosphere for
religion and took the most genuine interest in their disputations … For the
government at Goa sent missionaries with all their books of law and
gospel. (36)
On their visit the Christian missionaries described Lahore “as a delightful city.” They
were received by the Emperor who was delighted to receive an ornamented image of the
Virgin. Jahangir was even more liberal to the Christians and it was during his reign that
they were allowed to set up a mission, a church and a school at Lahore. Since then a
15
religiously tolerant and peaceful culture has been a distinguishing feature of Lahore. For
the promotion of a tolerant and cosmopolitan culture and the setting up of a society free
from any ethnic and cultural prejudices the services of the Muslim saints cannot be
overlooked or underestimated. Before them, Lahore under the Hindu Rajputs was a class
ridden society based upon the rigid Hindu caste system. The break up and the collapse of
social and cultural integrity, cohesion and interaction amongst the communities which
accompanied the partition of the Sub-continent in 1947, has been elaborately discussed
and explained in the Third Chapter which deals with Bapsi Sidhwa’s novels particularly
Ice Candy Man (1984). In fact, cracks of hatred and rivalry began to appear in the social
fabric of the city of Lahore when in the first decade of the twentieth century major
Religion, therefore, was fast becoming a cultural force and the interaction between the
British and the Lahorites created an atmosphere where all the communities felt the need
to adhere to their respective religious faith for their identities and survival. There emerged
various religious and social reform movements aiming at purification of their respective
religions. This new scenario with emphasis on religious identities has been discussed in
the Second Chapter of my thesis where Dina Naths’ novel Two Friends: A Descriptive
Story of Lahore Life (1899) has been analyzed to focus the amorphousness of Lahore.
The objective of my thesis is not to survey or trace such changes since the time of
Lahore’s foundation to the present day in historical or chronological terms, though the
history of the city would form a significant portion of my dissertation. The thesis is
a modern postcolonial Lahore. For this purpose I have specifically chosen English fiction
with Lahore as a locale of both, the colonial and post-colonial era especially from the year
1899 to 1999. I shall zoom in and magnify the amorphousness of Lahore as it appears in
16
English fiction of the last one hundred years. I shall develop upon the physical changes
along with the cultural and social ones as perceived by the writers of these fictional
works, both of the colonial and the post-colonial times. This record should also help us to
look at the difference between the colonial and the post-colonial perspectives of
presenting the changing shapes of Lahore’s temporal reality. For this purpose I have
chosen Dina Nath’s novel Two Friends: A Descriptive Story of Lahore Life (1889),
Rudyard Kipling’s Kim (1901), Bapsi Sidhwa’s Ice-Candy Man (the novel was published
in 1984 but it covers the time just before partition of the Sub-continent in 1947) to cover
the colonial time, the British Raj. While discussing these works I would also be referring
to some of the seminal works of such writers as E.M.Forster, and Thomas Moore and
many others who are relevant for my argument. So far as the post-colonial era is
concerned I have also selected for analysis Sidhwa’s The Bride and An American Brat
(1993); Sara Suleri’s Meatless Days, (1989) which is set in Lahore in the 1970s and
Mohsin Hamid’s Moth Smoke (2000) which reflects Lahore of the 1990s have also been
examined. In order to fill the gaps I have also referred to other texts that portray Lahore as
an expanding yet examinable locale. Then there are some memoirs and autobiographical
writings of those who lived in Lahore before the partition, migrated to India after 1947,
had a chance to revisit the city, serve as a storehouse of knowledge and information about
Lahore of the pre-partition time. The analysis of such writings would enable us to see
Lahore in two different perspectives, Lahore before and after the partition of the Punjab
in 1947. All these writings help to understand Lahore what I argue as an amorphous city,
I have divided my thesis into Four Chapters. The First Chapter is a brief survey of the
development of Lahore from its foundation to the British rule in the Punjab which ended
on 14th of August 1947. My study of the history of Lahore has made me perceive
17
amorphousness in the very foundation of the city. The First chapter, therefore, is of great
significance as it deals not only with the historical amorphousness of Lahore but also
presents cultural, religious ethos and social pattern all combined together to contribute to
make the city amorphous the way I look at it. The emphasis, of course, falls on the
amorphousness of the city in terms of its physical shape, cultural, social and religious
made to trace and locate the original sight of the ancient Lahore and its development as a
city under the Rajputs and their contribution towards its architecture and culture if any,
before the arrival of the Muslims in the Sub-continent. The Muslims not only dominated
the Sub-continent physically but also culturally. It was under their rule that cities like
Delhi, Agra and Lahore rose to unprecedented glory and cultural dominance and became
the cradle of civilization in this part of the world. This chapter also reviews the Sikh rule
and last but not the least the British rule and the colonial color and shape which the city of
Lahore donned.
The year of 1899 is significant because it was in this year that the historical city of
Lahore was used by an Indian novelist as a locale for a colorful Lahori life, captured and
portrayed vividly in fiction in English for the first time. This representation set the
tradition of making Lahore a locale in English fiction of the succeeding writers. The
Second Chapter focuses upon the analysis of those works of fiction that have used Lahore
as a backdrop. Dina Nath’s Two Friends: A Descriptive Story of the Lahori Life (1899)
and Rudyard Kipling’s Kim (1901) form the main focal point. In the Third Chapter I have
chosen Bapsi Sidhawa’s works such as Ice-Candy Man, The Bride and An American Brat
to support my argument. Although, the locale in these novels shifts from Lahore to other
areas, in the former to Kohistan and in the latter to America, yet the major part of the
action takes place in Lahore and we come across the multifaceted development in almost
every aspect of Lahori life since 1947. Sidhwa’s Ice-Candi Man is a significant fictional
18
graphically just before the partition in 1947 and after it, as life in the city begins to come
back to normalcy after the macabre game of death and destruction was over. The Fourth
Chapter is about Lahore from 1970s to 1990s. And in order to depict the amorphousness
of Lahore from the 1970s to 1990s I have selected Sara Suleri’s Meatless Days. It throws
light on the situation as it develops leading to some personal and national losses, the
dismemberment of Pakistan in 1971. Mohsin Hamid’s Moth Smoke has been has also
been chosen to spotlight Lahore in 1980s and 1990s. Lahore during these two decades
manifests itself in a new light, a city of fashionable and posh localities, drugs, crimes of
all types, load shedding and above all Lahore as a nuclear city.
Since its annexation in 1849 to the present time, Lahore has retained its colonial
character and outlook. The British set the tradition of keeping the natives aloof by
establishing themselves in new a locality called the Civil Lines. They also shifted their
military barracks from the Anarkali area to Mian Mir, about ten kilometers away from the
old city. Thus the British introduced the concept of bifurcation of the civil and the
military areas in the same city. The cantonments were set up at a considerable distance
from the Civil Lines. In these localities all the modern facilities of life were available to
the residents. It was a secluded world and the natives were not allowed to sneak into it.
The same pattern has continued even today and the expensive and lucrative cantonment
areas and the Defense Housing schemes inhabited by the opulent and the ruling class with
all the perks, privileges and prerogatives present a striking contrast not only with the old
city but also with those areas lying between the walled city and these posh localities,
small cities within Lahore. There are invisible walls of social, economic and cultural
differences and disparities isolating the poor Lahoris from the rich of the modern areas, a
world of power, domination and neo-colonists. Undoubtedly, Lahore has changed
conspicuously in each and every respect and the modern city is a beautiful blend of the
Most historians and writers, both ancient and modern, writing about Lahore have given
us history of the city, its monuments, architectural structure and design, how its walls and
gates were built, how it was captured, destroyed and rebuilt, expanded and shrunk
alternately as the time rolled on. They also mention the ruling dynasties in a
chronological order and give them the credit and appreciation of constructing the city
beautifully after every calamity and tragedy it has faced through out its history. Such
books as Syad Muhammad Latif’s Lahore: its History, Architectural Remains and
Muhammad Baqir’s Lahore: Past and Present, Nazir Ahmad Chaudhry’s Lahore:
Glimpses of a Glorious Heritage and Majid Sheikh’s Lahore: Tales Without End can be
mentioned in this regard. On the architecture of Lahore and on its modernization in the
colonial era William J. Glover’s book Making Lahore Modern: Constructing And
Imagining A colonial City is a good addition. Then there are reminiscences and memoirs
Mittal’s Lahore ka jo Zakir Kiya, Pran Nevile’s Lahore: A Sentimental Journey, Som
Sanyal, these reminiscences are more of a lament on the loss of a city which was once so
Latif’s landmark work Lahore: Its History, Architectural Remains And Antiquities
deals with the ancient and modern Lahore. The significance of Chapter One of the book
lies in the fact that it gives us the history of Lahore from its occupation by the Muslims to
its annexation by the British in 1849. We get a vividly chronological history of Lahore, its
glory, splendour, prosperity and decline under various Muslim dynasties, The Ghiznivide
dynasty, the Ghorian and Slave dynasties, the Khiljai and Toghlak dynasties, the Lodhi
dynasty and the Mughal Empire. The men of administrative skill and dexterity, kings,
sultans and governors who made Lahore as one of the jewels of culture and civilization of
the world have also found space in this chapter. Some of them have also been buried in
their beloved city, Lahore. Chapter Two of the book deals with the architectural remains
of the city, tombs, mausoleums, havlis, palatial residential buildings of the Mughals and
the beautiful gardens they built. The modern period of Lahore under the British Raj
the colonial ideas. It also contains an elaborate and detailed discussion on the origin
referred to by the historians of Lahore. The book describes in brief the ancient Hindu
period, combining Hindu legends and myths with history. In brief, it also gives us an
account of the Muslim and the Sikh rule over Lahore. The historical significance of the
book lies in its description of the eminent Muslim saints of Lahore, the tombs and graves
of the Muslim and the non- Muslim rulers of Lahore and people of high social ranks.
this book from other books on the history of Lahore is that it gives us the history and
location of the thirteen gates of Lahore which are still the distinctive feature of the city. It
describes in brief the occupation of Lahore by various invaders and the calamities which
befell on its people and also mentions various invaders who captured Lahore.
In Making Lahore Modern: Constructing And Imagining A Colonial City, Glover has
emphasized the forces and factors of urbanization and modernization of Lahore and has
stressed the architectural aspect of the city. The imagination of the British had gone a
long way to build a modern Lahore adjacent to the old city. The transformation of Lahore
from the city of the great Mughals and then afterwards the capital of the Sikhs, the civil
war after Ranjit Singh’s death in1839 had brought nothing but ruin and decline to it, a
fallen city, to a colonial city developed on modern principle and design of architecture,
urbanization of Lahore is the hallmark of the book. A distinctive feature of the book is the
idea that it was the amalgamation and interaction of the indigenous and the foreign, the
Lahorites and the British, which made what was Lahore in the British period. So the
Lahore: Tales Without End is not only about its tales but also about its history. The
book is about the thieves of Lahore, its rebels, ancient families, saints, ruins, havilis,
tombs, gates, and walls. It tells us about the lost splendour of the city, and the glory it
achieved during the British Raj. The book has a tale like atmosphere and reminds its
historical note. The book provides us with valuable information of the early days of the
British Raj when Lahore became a part of the British Empire, a provincial headquarter of
the province of the Punjab.The writer recalls and recollects how the British devised ways
22
and means to tackle the issues of adjustment and ruling a new land and its inhabitants, the
use of available old buildings for political, administrative and religious purposes, new
educational and commercial institutions and roads were also built. Some of these signs
and symbols of colonialism no longer exist, yet are an integral part of the history of
Lahore and those which have stood the test of time remind us of the days of the British
Raj. And the second part of the book deals with the various Muslim dynasties and the
These works, therefore, have their own historical, literary, social and cultural
significance. But none of the writers mentioned above of the colonial and postcolonial era
has studied, analyzed and explored Lahore from the angle of its amorphousness.
Moreover, books written on the history of Lahore have their own limitations and the
memoirs do not take into consideration cultural and historical forces whose role has been
END NOTES
Introduction
For further information see Jean-Francois Lyotard, The Postmodern Condition: A Report on
Knowledge.Trans. Geoff Bennington and Brian Massumi, Manchester: Mancheter University Press, 1984.
2
Renamed Mumbai in 1996 is an important commercial, film and financial centre of India. A fishing
community called the kolis is known to be the earlist settlers. Bombay and its surrounding islands in the
third century were in the possession of the Maurya Empire which made them the centre of Hindu and
Buddhist culture and religion. The Satavahanas, the Abhiras, the Vakatakas, the Kalachuris, the Chalukyas,
the Rashtrakutas dynasties were the rulers of these islands till the 9th century. The Muslim rulers of Gujrat
took possession of these islands in 1343 which put an end to the Hindu rule. Sultan Bahadur Shah of the
Gujrat Kingdom handed over these islands to the Portuguese inn 1534 as a result of a treaty called the
Treaty of Bassein. Charles II of England leased them to the East India Company in 1668 after he had
received the island as the dowry of Catherine de Braganza in 1661. British named the city as Bombay and
for British Trade settlement by Job Charnok, an agent of the East India Company. Adjacent to this site,
there were three large villages, Sutanuti, Gibindapur and kalikata which the British purchased from the
local lords to transform the place into a city. In 1756 Siraj-ud-daullah, the nawab of Bengal captured to
from the British only to lose to to them in 1757. It was in 1772 that Kalcutta was made the capital of British
India. The British shifted their capital from Calcutta to Delhi in 1912. Culcutta is sitiated on the bank of
on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal. It was established in the 17th century by the British. Madras
is supposed to be a Portuguese name and when the British took possession of the area the two towns
to build the city of Delhi in 50 BC. It is also argued that the the Hindi word “Dhili” means ‘loose’ and that
Raja Dhava of the clan of Tuar Rajputs built an iron pillar which was of loose foundation. It was, therefore,
24
replaced by a pillar of strong foundation. But the city retained its name, “Dhili”. There is another theory
suggesting that “Dhillika” was the original name of the city Delhi. Mahabharata, an Indian epic mentions
Indraprastha, a lengendary capital of the Pandavas and that site is supposed to be Delhi. When Muhammad
Ghori, an Afghan ruler, conqured Delhi in 1192, it was under the rule of Pithviraj Chauhan, a ruler in the
line of the Chauhan Rajputs of Ajmer. Delhi reached the pennacle of glory and splendour under the Muslim
rule( 1206-1707) as it was their capital and seat of power and glory. The last great Mughal Emperor
Aurangzab died in 1707 and his death heralded the decline of the Mughal rule in India and with the
banishment of the last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar from Delhi in 1857 when the British captured
the city Delhi was lost for the Muslims. The British built New Dlhi situated within the metropolis of Delhi
city is situated on the banks of river Yumma. It was founded by Raja Badal Singh, the founder of
Radhaswami faith, in 1475. It was captured by Sikandar Lodhi, an Afghan, in 1504 who made it his capital.
Agra came to its full bloom in terms of its culture and architecture under the Mughals after 1526. The city is
best known for the famous Taj Mahal built by Shah Jahan for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal.
7
Generally speaking the Delhi Sultanate period, covesr the years from 1206 to 1526 when the various
the foundation of the Mughal rule in India, and ended with the banishment of the last Mughal emperor
Chapter One
Lost in its own silent rhythm, the Ravi sings its song
In it undulating flow I see the reflections in my heart—
The willows, the world, in worship of God
order but to look for amorphousness even in the bricks and mortar of the city. It is but
imperative to explore the history of Lahore as it would be of great benefit and advantage
for us to trace and track its amorphousness back to the day Lahore was founded. The
emphasis, in the first place falls on finding out the origin of Lahore, its original location
and how the city assumed the name it bears today. Although, folklore, legends and history
enveloping Lahore complicate the matter further as the city of Lahore which appears in
folklore and legends evaporates and dissolves in the mist of the early history of this area
27
to emerge in the chronicles of India of the 2nd century, yet, knowledge and cognizance of
such legends, folklore and historical facts of Lahore would be of great help to see that
amorphousness of Lahore is not a recent development in the modern times. It has been
rather an integral and significant feature and characteristic of the city since its very
foundation.
So far as its physical location is concerned “the present city of Lahore is situated on a
slightly rising ground about a mile from the left bank of the river Ravi at its nearest point
in 31 35’ north latitude, and 740 10’ east longitudes” (Kipling, Thornton 23). The Ravi is
a small river in comparison with the other four rivers which water the plains of the Punjab
giving it its name and making it fertile and green. The Ravi figures in many romantic and
chivalric tales and folk literature of the Punjab and at the same time it has been a witness
to numerous battles in which crowns had been lost and won. It is the life breath of the city
of Lahore. In the Hindu Shastras, which in Hindu religion are social laws and conduct to
The river, which makes a very circuitous bend from the East, passes in a
walls… The river soon afterwards abandoned its old channel, and has
never since returned to it, though an arm of the main stream at present
This arm of the river, for a long time, was called Budda Ravi by the Lahorites. To the
disappointment of them it also disappeared gradually. The Ravi, therefore, has played its
determining its border from the eastern side of the city. For centuries in its history, the
river washed the eastern wall of the Fort and only recently it slowly but gradually moved
28
away from the Fort towards a neighboring town of Lahore called Shahdara, generously
allocating more space to the city for its expansion and at the same time re-allocating its
boundaries. The river itself seems to have imparted its flow and fluidity to the city itself, a
significant feature of the amorphousness of Lahore. The Ravi was called “Parushni” or
“Iravati” by the Indians in the Vedic period1 and “Hydraotes” by the Greeks. It is
interesting to note that the river also had different names in different times of its history
like the city situated on its eastern bank, Lahore. In each era of its history, the river
remained a symbol of a specific cultural, religious and political ethos, folklores and
legends transferring them to the peoples and communities replacing the previous ones.
The inheritors of such traditions, customs and conventions added a set of their own
folklores, legends, customs, religious and cultural activities, rites and rituals to what they
had received. In this way a continuity of cultural traditions was maintained in which
every community contributed its share to its capacity creating unity in diversity.
How Lahore acquired its present name and the date of its foundation are shrouded and
enveloped in the mystery of etymology. Goulding has given a brief but interesting history
The name ‘Lahore’ (which is, of course, connected with the name of its
mythical founder, the son of Rama) is not peculiar to the capital of the
probably the most correct form of the name; as it is the form under which
companion of the Emperor Muhmud of Ghazni and the one who is known
Lohawar, therefore, will signify ‘Fort of Loh, and the name will thus
The very cloudiness and mist of traditions and legends surrounding the origin of
Lahore in itself is fascinating to make the city a subject of historical exploration. That the
city of Lahore never had a fixed name and that it had been called by various names
historical evidence we have no alternative but to fall back upon the legends and traditions
location. Although, the exact date of the foundation of Lahore is not easy to determine,
yet we see that the local Hindu traditions trace the origin of Lahore to Rama, king of
Ayodha (Oude) the hero of the Ramayana2. His son Love, or Loh and Kash, are believed
to have established the cities of Lahore and Kasur respectively. It is not only the local
Hindu traditions but also the legends and quasi historic traditions of other neighboring
localities which celebrate Lahore as a battlefield of heroic adventures and deeds. The
dependency of the great Lalitaditya .In the ‘Desh-v-Bhaga4 compiled at the behest of the
30
famous Raja Jai Sing Saiwal of Jaipur, mentions Ban Mal of Lahore who was
unfortunately defeated and held prisoner by Bhin Sen. The victorious Bhin Sen made the
kingdom of Lahore as his tributary. “The Adventures of Raja Rasalu5 a popular Punjabi
legend, narrates the heroic and chivalric character of Lahore and describes it as a
battleground where Russalu, the son of Salvahn, the hero of Sialkot fought and killed
Rakhas. Keneksen, a Solar Rajput prince who is said to have migrated from Lahore, later
on founded the state of Mewar. The Solankhi tribe of Anwhara Pattan and the Bhatis of
Jasulmer, whose name is still borne by one of the city gates (Bhati Darwaza) also,
mentions Lahore as the citadel of their power. The legends and the traditions referred to
establish nothing beyond the idea that Lahore had been established by the Rajputs and
that the city was a significant center of Rajput power. It was their capital city and the seat
of power when the Muslims in the seventh century launched a series of attacks against the
city.
Contrary to the legends and traditions referring Lahore as a city of the Rajput
kingdom of the first century AD, a prized city which stirred and instigated the Rajput
princes of antiquity to capture it and to add it to their kingdoms and principalities, there is
little historical documentation to locate Lahore to a physical site and geography and to
portray Lahore as a city of any cultural significance. In the first place, there is no mention
of Lahore, nor of any city with which it may be fairly identified, in the writings of the
Greek historians of the expedition of Alexander to the East .The Greek historians who
though he is said to have crossed the Ravi in the vicinity of Lahore. Chisti narrates in his
famous book of the history of Lahore, Tehkekaat-e-Chisti that after defeating Raja
Pourus, “Alexander planned to ransack the rich and opulent state of Magdht, crossed the
Ravi to attack and capture it. Haggard and exhausted his army refused to act.
31
Consequently, Alexander came back to Lahore and then proceeded to his own country
where he died after two years” (53-4). Baring this reference, there is no contemporary
historical evidence which mentions Lahore as a city of any significance. It means that
Lahore did not exist as a city of any significance on the eve of Alexander’s expedition to
the Sub-continent. Lahore is not mentioned in the writings of the historians and the
travelers between 66 BC and 24 AD. While giving a description of royal road between the
Indus and Allahbad Pliny (23-70 AD), an ancient Roman nobleman, scientist and
historian, does not mention Lahore. According to Goulding, “Lastly, no coins of the Indo
Bactria or Indo Seythic dynasties have…, been discovered at Lahore, although the
locality formed a portion of the kingdom of Menander and his successors and probably
It may, therefore, be so far concluded, that Lahore must have been founded between
the first and the seventh centuries of the Christian era. Ptolemy, the Greek geographer
flourished at Alexandria about 150 A.D. has referred to a city called Labokla, an
important city of the kingdom called Kasperia. This Kingdom had extended along the
rivers, Bidaster (Jhelum) Sandabal (Chandra Bhaga or Chenab) and Adris (Ravi). This
place has been identified by Wilford6 as Lahore by its location and name and Major
General Cunningham7 who has made this identification more probable after he had
the ruins of Amabakapi situated about 25 miles away from Lahore. Goulding states:
Lahore must have been a place of some importance at the time Ptolemy’s
Geography was written in the fact that the middle of the second century is
Lahore (84).
32
However, from the mentioning of that city by the Greek geographer, we may
infer the date of the foundation of Lahore at the end of the first century AD. There is a
city named Tahora mentioned in the famous itinerary of the Roman Empire believed to
have been penned down in230 AD. Tahora is believed to have existed on the route from
the Indus to the Ganges. So far as the position and location of this city is concerned it
corresponds with the position of Lahore “that it is made to follow on the list a city named
Spatura, on the river Chenab” (Kipling Thornton 119). Major General Cunningham calls
this city Lahore. Whereas, Wilford prefers to identify this city as an ancient city situated
on the Sutlej which Mahabharata has also mentioned; “and philologically the latter
identification would appear most probable, as the Sanskrit a is frequently represented (as
before observed) by the Greek or Latin o; but the interchange of t and l is contrary to
analogy” (119). Hwan Twan Thesang, the Chinese traveler, who came to the Punjab in
the fall of A.D.630 has described a large and populous city containing many thousand
families chiefly Brahmans, situated on the eastern border of the kingdom of Cheka
From this city he made a bee line to China Piti and thence to Jalandhara,
the modern Jalandhara. Now Jalandhara is situated in the east of Lahore,
and midwaybetween the two cities is a village called Patti to this day.
There can be little doubt, therefore, that the great Brahmanical city of
Lahore has witnessed the change of dynasties since its foundation. The earliest
princesses who ruled Lahore were the Rajputs of Ayodha.When did the Rajputs of
Solankhis and Bhatti tribes replaced the Ayodha Rajputs are not easy to determine. But
when the Muslims appeared in front of the gates of Lahore, a Chohan prince of the family
33
of Ajmer was ruling the city. And during the Muslim invasions of the tenth century the
reigning family was that of the Brahmanicals. When Mahmud of Ghazni occupied
Lahore, he found it as a deserted city because of the fact that it is situated on the high road
from Afghanistan, therefore, exposed to the invader’s attacks. Ferishta9 the famous
historian of the time of Muhmud has referred to a province called Lahore. It is stated in
the ‘Hadiqa Kulaqlim’ of Murteza Hosein that before the invasion the capital had been
shifted to Sialkot and that it was transferred to Lahore during the reign of Musad II. The
traditions of the Bhattis also confirm Salvahapor as the capital of the city. Then Al
Barune10 also makes mention of Lahore as a region and not as a city when Muhmud of
Ghazni established his occupation over these areas. Madokor was the capital of this
region. According to Kipling and Thornton, “Madokor might easily, from the similarity
between ‘h’ and ‘n’ and ‘r’ and final‘t’, in the Arabic character be corrupted from Mankot
It is interesting to note that al- Masudi11, the Herodotus of the Arabs in his geography
written in the tenth century, has mentioned Lahore. He had stayed at Multan, two hundred
miles from the modern city of Lahore. In A.D.682, according to Ferishta the Afghans of
Kerman and Peshawar had taken possession of some of the areas between Peshawar and
Lahore from a Hindu prince. Consequently, a major and decisive war between the
Muslims and the Hindus had become unavoidable, therefore, inevitable. Several
skirmishes ensued and in order to win the conflict the Afghans had entered into an
alliance with the Ghakkars, a wild and unruly tribe of the salt range of the Punjab. This is
mentioned in the chronicles of Rajputana, where Bussas of Lahore, a Rajput tribe had
gone to Chittore to defend it against the avalanche of the Afghans in the ninth century. At
illustrious Mahmud made his advance beyond the Indus. Jaipal, the raja of Lahore
34
blocked his way. His dominion is said to have spread over a large area from Sirhind to
Lamghan, and from Kashmir to Multan. After the death of Alptigin (963- 977) his slave
sat on the throne of Ghazni. He led his army against Jaipal and inflicted a crushing defeat
on the Rajput army. In return for peace, he agreed to part away a major portion of his
kingdom to the Muslim ruler. He did not keep his words and imprisoned those who had
been sent by Sabaktagin to remind him of his solemn pledge. On receiving this news
Sabaktagin became outrageous and fell upon the Raja like a hungry lion. In the battle the
Raja was once again defeated. The invaders occupied the territory to the west of Indus.
Another battle was fought between Muhmud the son and successor of Sabaktagin and
Anandpal the son of Jaipal. Again in the fall of 1022, he suddenly came down from
Kashmir and took Lahore without any tough resistance. Thus the Hindu principality of
Lahore came to an end once for all. Malik Ayyaz Mahmud was made the governor of
Lahore. He is said to have built the walls and the fortress of Lahore miraculously in a
single night. Although, a great damage had been done to the city, a major portion of it
was burnt to ashes, yet the whole city was not demolished to rebuild a new city form its
foundations. New Muslim localities were constructed within the old city. Minarets and
domes of mosques appeared along with the temples and other places of worship of the
Hindus adding a new dimension of religious and cultural ethos to its already existing
religion and culture. This new material, concrete and physical manifestations of new
power and domination also changed the landscape of the city. The amorphousness of
these diverse ideas, thoughts, customs and traditions began to take place gradually as the
Muslims strengthened their rule in Hindustan. Lahore Fort, the citadel of power and the
symbol of glory of those who made Lahore their seat of rule, the Hindus, the Muslims,
the Sikhs and last but not the least the British is a true image of amorphousness in terms
35
of architectural changes which each ruler brought in the existing design of this impressive
fortress.
As the exact date of the origin of the city is unknown, hidden in the debris of its
history so is the foundation and exact location of the fort is wrapped in the dust, fog and
mist of history. There is no disagreement amongst the historians that the city of Lahore
always had a fort since times immemorial, a Hindu fort before the Muslim fort which
stands today at its present site. But they disagree on its exact location as it is hard to pin
point the site where the ancient fort stood before the arrival of the Muslims in Lahore.
The efforts of the historians are further complicated by the fact that “the city and its
citadel have been razed and rebuilt time and again” (Chaudhry 40). And that “Lahore has
been aptly described as a city where some localities are built over the graves; and as the
wheel of time turns round, the graveyards reclaim the stately mansions and the smiling
orchards” (40). It is also difficult to determine whether the fort was built first or the city.
Hindu epic in Lahore. Majid Sheikh states that “in this epic the pregnant Sita is located,
during her second exile, in the Ravi area that “curls around the mound that has been
inhabited since centuries” (15). It is also believed by many historians that she reared her
son Loh on the mound which later on was called Lahore, the Fort of Loh. According to
Sheikh, “One version which is popular with the academics, puts the location where the
Lahore Fort stands today, just next to where the road curls upwards from Haathi
Darwaza” (15). This is further confirmed by the fact that there is a temple called the
temple of Loh in the Lahore fort. But Sir Edward Maclagan has questioned the validly of
this tradition by opining that “the small Hindu Mandir or shrine in the Hazoori Bagh,
attributed to Loh, the titular founder of Lahore, seems to date no further than the period of
The exact location of the city of Lahore is not easy to determine as it has been an in-
vadeable city. The successive invasions had made the vast area around Lahore a city of
ruins. The Muslims initiated their attacks on Lahore in 665 AD. Where was that city
called Lahore, which came under the attack of the Muslims, located? This is the question
On account of a vast harvest of ruins and graves round the city, it is not
easy to locate the site of the original (city) set up by Loh, if the tradition is
worthy of any credence. There was a graveyard in the area of Ichhra and
In the confusion of its location and the date of foundation one thing is clear and that is
that Lahore, before it was captured by Muhamud of Ghaznivi in 1021 A. D., was
primarily and fundamentally a city of the Hindus where no other culture than the culture
of the Hindus held its swa: “A Persian book of geographical information complied in 982
A.D describes Lahore as a city of idols, almonds and idolaters” (42). There are folk tales
and legends regarding the name and the origin of the city of Lahore but history is
mysteriously silent on such issues and of course, on the question of the first site of human
dwellings in Lahore. This leads us to a burning and simmering issue of the exact site
where the first human dwellings in the city sprang up and what the original physical
shape of the city was. The answer to this question would definitely help us to study the
amorphousness of the city on the one hand, and on the other, the development and
enrichment of its culture and literature. Referring to the beginning of human dwellings in
There is a generally accepted theory that the very first dwellings that we
know as Lahore started from where the citadel of the city stands. The
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existence of the temple of Lahu inside the fort, and the fact that he was the
son of Ramah and Sita, does support this theory. But then this does not
have any support from any written text from the pre- Islamic era. The very
first mention of this “fact” was made by the famous Hindu historian, Sujan
Though he quotes from folklore and other sources, the time frame of the
In order to determine how old the city of Lahore is, the department of archeology
initiated an archaeological strata analysis inside the Lahore Fort in the year 1959. It
revealed some interesting facts about the human dwellings there. Sheikh continues to
state:
A 52-feet deep sample was taken and every foot carbon-dated… In this
each one almost 700 to 800 years older than the one above. The lowest,
soil.” The estimate was that this was a 3,000- year old dwelling. (21)
The archeology department took another archaeological strata study, this time in the
Haveli of Raja Dhayan Singh situated inside Masti Gate near Choona Mandi, the reason
being that this site along with the Fort is a high mound. The study revealed four levels of
human dwellings. An aerial view of the ancient city of Lahore reveals the fact that the
city within its wall has some sites or localities which are situated on high mounds such as
Paniwala Talaab and Langa Mandi, Mohallah Maulian near Paper Mandi and Tibbi. A
book called Hudud-i-Alam written by an anonymous writer in A.D. 982 mentions Lahore
“as a small ‘shahr’ with impressive temples, large markets and huge orchards” (23). It
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also referred to “two major markets around which dwellings exist… and the mud walls
that enclose these two dwellings to make it one” (23 ).The mud walls mentioned in
Hudud-i-Alam then existed where now Bazaar Hakeeman inside Bhatti Gate is situated.
On the Southern side the old mud wall ran very much inside where the
present wall exists. on the northern side the wall starts from the top of
the‘tibba’ that is today known as Tibbi Chowk. The word Tibbi is derived
from the word ‘tibba’, meaning a mound. The wall then ran along this high
mound and turned Southwards at where today we have the Rang Mahal
eastern wall ran as evidence shows us, just to the west of the main
So the ancient city of the Hindus called Lahore which was attacked and taken over by
the Muslims according to this research existed within this area mentioned above. Was it
the city of Jaipaul, the Rajput ruler of Lahore which was put to fire and sword by
Muhamud of Ghazni? Or was it some other city? The historians are not certain about this
fact. The wall and the gates, however, are the distinguishing feature of the old city of
Lahore which has given the city its physical space. Despite its physical amorphousness in
various times of its history, the old Lahore has never lost its distinct character and form of
a city of wall and gates. When Mahmud of Ghanzi attacked Lahore it had seven gates and
out of these seven Mori Gate is the one which has risen to prominence in the history of
Almost 1,000 years ago the city walls, then made of huge mud blocks
slightly baked and still muddy in color, had six gates and a ‘mori’ a hole of
dismount and barely walked through. A horseman had to make his mount
manage through with bent knees with difficulty, a hole that served as a
The ‘Mori’, therefore, was a very narrow passage, unlike the other gates of the city; it was
seldom used by the respectable and honorable inhabitants of the city for transportation
purposes. The Hindu society was then and even today is a caste ridden society. It believes
in the stratification of masses in accordance with their profession. The untouchables are at
the bottom of this social stratification. It is said that this ‘mori’ was their main entrance
into the city. It is the same ‘mori’ gate which was breached by Mahmud of Ghazna to
capture Lahore. Again in the year of 1526 Zaheer-uddin- Muhammad Babur entered
Lahore to capture it through this ‘mori’ gate. When the British annexed the Punjab in
1849 they demolished the old ‘mori’ gate and rebuilt it as a large gate.
Lahore is famous for its thirteen gates, each gate bears its peculiar name, and some of
the names have been corrupted for popular use by the Lahoris. A few of them are more
important by virtue of their location. Delhi Gate is situated in the east of the city and is so
called as it faces the city of Delhi, the capital of the Mughal Empire. This was the most
populated part of the city. It was the main entrance of the business and commercial class
till the rule of the Sikhs. Even during the British rule it was most frequented as the British
built Railway Station out side this gate. Bhatti Gate is another important gate of Lahore. It
reminds us of the fact that the Bhatts, a branch of the Rajputs were once the rulers of
Lahore. Lahori Gate is another important gate of Lahore. Sultan Mahmud Ghaznivi after
capturing Lahore appointed Malik Ayyaz the governor of the conquered areas who
planned to rebuild the city. The rehabilitation of the city began from the area now called
the Lahori Mandi. A gate was also built which was named Lahori Darwaza. It was rebuilt
in the days of the British Raj. Beyond Lahori Gate, towards the south, there is another
40
famous gate called Shahalami Gate, named after Moazzam Shah, the son of Aurangzeb,
who succeeded his father as the Emperor of India. Akbari Gate had been named after
Akbar the Great, these days a very busy market of spices. Masti Gate, a corruption of
Masjadi Gate, named after the mosque of Mariam Makani, the mother of Akbar the Great.
She built a mosque there. Mochi Gate drives its name from the fact that a large number of
cobblers inhabited that locality. Kashmiri Gate is so named because it faced the direction
of Kashmir. Zaki Darwaza is another famous gate which now in its popularly corrupted
form is called Yaaki Darwaz. There is a popular tradition associated with its name.
According to that tradition Pir Zaki Shaheed was entrusted with the task of defending the
gate against the avalanche of the enemy. He fought valiantly till his body was cut into
two. It is said that his headless body continued fighting and fell at a spot, a few yards
inside the gate. His body was buried where it had fallen; a tomb had been constructed
over his body which is called ‘grave of the body.’ And the ‘grave of the head’ is situated
just inside the gate where his head had fallen. People even today in large numbers visit
both the graves to pay homage to that saint who laid down his life to save the city. Khizri
Gate had been named after Hazarat Khizr, the patron saint of waters. Ranjit Singh had
placed two caged lions at the Khizri Gate and, gave it a new name, Shernwala Gate.
Taxlali Gate owned its name from the fact that there was a royal mint, a Taxal, nearby.
It was in the Mughal period that Lahore’s true amorphousness in terms of its
expansion, architectural development and cultural enrichment came to full bloom. It was
Akbar the Great (1556-1605), who gave Lahore its beauty and splendor and made it
famous amongst the other cities of the orient. Lahore remained his capital for fifteen
years. He not only built new structures in the fort but also new localities within the wall
of the city:
41
Over time we see more settlement outside this enclosure coming up. The
earliest settlements can be traced inside Lohari Gate, just along the road
south to this enclosed settlement. We see that over time this settlement
expanded to enclose the entire area starting from Lohari Gate, probably the
oldest gate of the ancient walled city, enclosed on the west by a wall to the
east of Bazarar Hakeeman and on the west by a wall to the west of the
But it was in the field of culture, architecture and literary activities that Lahore had
surpassed and excelled other cities of culture and civilization in India during the Mughal
period. The Mughal Lahore covered a large area is confirmed from the number of ruins
discovered or excavated in the areas surrounding Lahore. Traveling from the city walls
towards Shalimar Gardens, Mian Mir and Ichhra, a large number of ruins of mosques,
mounds gateways attract our attention. It is also interesting to note that the city in its
heydays of glory and splendor consisted of thirty-six quarters and guzars. Historians refer
to Icchra, a village but now a very busy shopping center, as the site of old Lahore. No
archeological ruins have been discovered to ascertain the idea that Lahore had achieved
its grandeur during that period. Only two small mosques in the heart of the city, the
Nimiwala masjid and Shiranwala masjid and two or three shrines are the only exceptions
which belong to the early period than that of Humayun.The absence of architectural relics
along with the dearth of information regarding the city in the writings of early writers
indicate that Lahore though an important place was not a beautiful city with awe inspiring
architectural design. It rose to glory and prominence during the Mughal era. And it will
not be an exaggeration to claim that from the architectural point of view Lahore is
essentially and exclusively a Mughal city. The buildings, palaces, and tombs etc, etc,
42
amorphousness of various and diverse architectural concepts and ideas borrowed from
Iran, Central and Minor Asia. The Mughal architecture of Lahore, in fact, is a synthesis of
the foreign and the indigenous architectural design which reached its culminating point
during the British Raj when a new dimension of building design was added to the one
already in existence.
Lahore during the Mughal rule. The early Lahori architecture is a beautiful blend of the
Pathan and the Mughal art of building construction. The early buildings of Lahore
excluding the tomb of Shah Musa situated by the railway station betrays the Pathan
influence .The mosque of Maryam Makani or Maryam Zamani situated by the eastern
of the Pathan and the Mughal. The tomb of Malik Ayaz, the first governor of Lahore, the
tomb of saint called Syed Izhak situated in the quadrangle of Wazir Khan’s mosque and
the tomb of Data Gang Bakhsh, a very famous saint of Lahore who came to the city with
the triumphant Muhmud of Ghazni are the buildings of the Ghaznivid period.
The structures raised in the gateways to the fort display a bold and massive style of
pillars of red stone, which support the slopping roof standing in the quardrangle of the
fort adjacent to Emperor Jehangir’s Khawabgah are excellent examples of a style which
colonnade of red stone pillars. The whole structure is carved with bird and animal figures
like the figures of peacocks, pigeons, elephants and griffins. There is a pavilion in the
centre of the fourth side which is built in the Mughal style of construction “and on either
43
side at the point of contact of the colonnade with outer wall are two chambers with
verandahs of three elaborately carved pillars supporting a chhaja in the Hindu style”(
Chaudhry 17), and “The quadrangle of Jahangir lies immediately behind the State
balcony of Akbar. The buildings at the sides of the quadrangle still show the broad eaves
and heavily carved brackting. These are of Hindu origin and are characterized as
Jahangir’s architecture” (55). The tomb of Jehangir at Shahdara, the mosque of Wazir
Khan on the South side of the city, the pearl mosque, the tomb of Asif Khan and the
imperial mosque of Aurangzeb are specimens of Indo-Mughal style known for its unique
marble lattice windows, and brilliantly enameled walls. A special feature of the Mughal
buildings was the profusion of colored tiling and enameled frescoes. Prince Kamran,
Lahore. He built a palace and a garden near the suburbs of Naulakha and extending
thence to the river Ravi. A baradari built by him is supposed to be the oldest specimen of
During the years when Lahore was the capital of Akbar, architecture in Lahore
received a new impetus. The Emperor himself patronized the construction of buildings
and encouraged the builders to come to Lahore even from Iran, Turkey and Central Asia.
Consequently, new buildings were constructed and the old ones were repaired. The tomb
of Shah Chiragh, the tomb of Kasim Khan, the Tomb of Shah Musa, and a mosque called
the mosque of Kala Khan situated on the right hand of the road leading to Mian Mir
remind us of the architecture flourished during the reign of Akbar. The Emperor Jahangir
built but little, but there are specimens of his architecture in the great Khawabgah, or
sleeping palace, in the tomb of Anarchali and possibly in the Moti Masjid, or Pearl
Mosque.
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During the reign of Shahjahan the palace was enlarged and beautified under the
supervision of Asif Khan and the entire facade covered with brilliantly colored designs in
title work: “Turning to the left of Jahangir’s quadrangle we come to a third group of
buildings, the erection of which is attributed to Shah Jahan. These betray less of the
Hindu influence in their composition than the quadrangle of Jahangir” (57). The Shah
Burj generally called Samman Burj built in the reign of Shah Jhan is a wonderful
“architectural adornment of curious enamel work and many precious stones” (qtd. in
Chaudry 58). While highlighting the uniqueness of this structure Khan says:
Lying within Shish Mahal and popularly called Naulakha or the edifice
workmanship renowned for its extremely minute and delicate pietra dura
Adjacent to the Shish Mahal, there is a court leading to a well-decorated gate called the
Hathi Paon or Elephant Gate. The descending passage to the Elephant Gate is covered
from all sides by huge walls with no roof. The side and the front wall display an excellent
work in title decoration. The construction and the decoration work of the walls was
intiated by Jahangir towards the end of his rule and were completed in the reign of Shah
Jahan in 1631-32 A.D. The construction of this part of Lahore Fort betrays a mixture of
A feature of special merit of Shah Burj Gate and this wall is the gorgeous,
done all over the wall and its extension on the north. This famous
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specimen of Pak- Iranian art unequalled for its vastness, variety of designs
and magnificence of its glowing colours, which though than 300 years old,
Chaudhry has refered to the influence of the Christian art so far as the figures of angels on
the wall is concerned: “Other spandrels show original cherubs, exactly resembling those
of Christian art… borrowed from church decoration” (59). The beautiful tomb of
Jahangir, at Shahdara, the mosque of Wazir Khan, on the south side of the city, the
Gardens of Shahlamar; the gateway of the Gulabi Bagh, the Idgah, the tomb of Mian Mir,
the summer house of Wazir Khan, the gateway of Zeb-ul-Nissa, and lastly the tombs
which line the road between Anarkali and the Shalimar Gardens, are among the works of
that period.
Lahore may have originated in antiquity, but its evolution has been determined
essentially by the nine centuries of Muslim rule in India. It is an Islamic city both
physically and culturally. This is not to suggest that only the Muslims have lived in it or
ruled over it. It is only that the Islamic Turko-Iranian ethos had a dominant influence in
the evolution of the city. The walled city is the historical core of the city. Its labyrinthine
imposing walls, gates and ramparts are living testimony to its Islamic heritage. The
Muslim rule in the Sub-continent has witnessed the rise and fall of several dynasties.
Each dynasty has contributed towards the enrichment of its culture and civilization.
Nevertheless India rose to its unprecedented glory and splendor under the Mughals. Its
fame had spread to other parts of the world. John Milton (1608-74) the famous English
poet of the 17th century England has mentioned Lahore in his epoch making epic
Paradise Lost Book xi ranking it with other centres of glory and splendor in the orient:
And Thmos Moor, an Irish poet has also made the Mughal Lahore as an exotic setting for
his famous romance, Ralla-Rookh (1817). Lalla Rookh, the princess and daughter of
Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, sorjorns at Lahore while on her journey from Delhi to
They had now arrived at the splendid city of Lahore, whose mausoleums
equal honours with Heaven, would have powerfully affected the heart and
imagination of Lalla Rookh , if feelings more of this earth had not taken
Again Lahore is described with all its beauty and splendour when the princess along with
Such brilliant displays of life and pageantry among the palaces and domes
and gilded minarets of Lahore made the city altogether like a place of
enchantment; particularly on the day when Lalla Rookh set out again upon
her journey, when she was accompanied to the gate by all the fairest and
richest of the nobility, and rode along between ranks of beautiful boys and
girls, waved plates of gold and silver flowers over their heads as they
Mughals not only gave Lahore an enduring architectural heritage but also laid the
Mughal social order where nobles were appointed as local vassals responsible for
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providing a prescribed number of soldiers to the imperial army, collecting revenue and
administering an area. The Mughal social order was based on territorial and communal
pattern. Cities were divided into quarters or districts, each inhabited by a tribe or a clan
under the patronage of a noble family. These neighborhoods were villages of a kind
wherein rich and poor were knit together through customary obligations and privileges.
There were also commercial districts and market bazaars specializing in commodities
such as jewels and species. Lahore was also organized on these lines. There were
originally nine such quarters within the walled city of Lahore. Its suburbs consisted of 27
quarters of different sizes. Each quarter had its own peculiar name given to it because of
the profession of its inhabitants; they also speak of the social origin and profession of the
dwellers.
With the death of the last great Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, the Muslim power in
India began to decline. It was beyond the ability of the later Mughal kings to keep India
united and strong. The recurrent civil wars of succession amongst the Mughal princes, the
emergence of unruly and wild military groups and bands of the Marahats in the South of
India and around Delhi and the Sikhs in the Punjab had further aggravated the situation.
India began to slip out of the control and power of the Mughals. And with the weakening
of their power in the centre, Delhi, various provinces began to assert their independence.
In the Punjab the rise of the Sikhs was phenomenal. They ravaged the Punjab and by the
year 1780 three of the Sikh chiefs, Gujar Singh, Lahna Singh and Sobha Sing took
possession of Lahore and divided the revenue of the city amongst them.
The city of Lahore was once again amorphosized under the rule of the Sikh Sardars.
They were the Bhangi Sirdars who belonged to the Bhangi Misl of the Sikhs. They
divided Lahore into three zones. Gujar Singh became master of the area between
Shalamar Gardens and the walled city of Lahore. Lahna Singh took control of the fort and
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extended his dominion over the Masti, Khizri, Kashmiri and the Raushnai Gates. Sobha
Singh established his power over the area surrounding the gardens of Zebinda Begum, the
area is now called Nawankot. The history of Lahore of the last two decades of the
eighteenth century, in fact, is the history of loot and plunder. There was hardly any
literary and cultural activity worth mentioning. The art of building and architecture did
not receive any official patronage and impetus. On the other hand, the existing structures
of the Mughal period, known for their beauty and excellence suffered irreparable
damages. Some were demolished to their foundations and others were robbed of their
precious stones and were reduced to skeletons of broken bricks. Mosques were
desecrated, tombs of Muslim saints were converted into residential buildings and the
Mughal gardens lay waste. Lahore had become a ghost city, ugly in physical appearance.
It had been stripped of its Mughal beauty and splendour. Gujar Singh, Lahana Singh and
Sobha Singh, the triumvirate Sardars were philistines in nature and character and their
interest laid some where else. They were devoid of aesthetic sense and were philistine in
nature. Lahore had shrunk to its walls. Glover describes Lahore as a city which had lost
city’s entire population as living within the Mughal citadel, all other areas
huddled within Akbar’s walls for mutual protection while it’s once
It was in 1799 that the chaotic and disorderly reign of these three Sikh Sardars ended.
Ranjit Singh, a nineteen years old lad after obtaining a formal grant of the city from the
Afghan king, Shah Zaman, entered Lahore from the Lahori Gate and took possession of
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the city. He made the Mughal citadel his palace and constructed a second wall around the
city to strengthen its defense. A moat separated the two walls. Thalassa Ali while
describing the day break in Lahore gives us a realistic picture of the city and the streets of
Lahore of the Ranjit Singh’s era. “The light strengthened and found its way into the
narrow lanes and bazaars of Lahore city. It spread over the wet pavilions and courtyards
of Maharajah Ranjit Singh’s Citadel, the great marble fort that shared with the city the
protection of its ancient fortified wall” (2). The setting up of a court at Lahore and
administrative machinery restored law and order in the city till 1839, the year the Raja
died. In comparison with the Mughal rulers, Ranjit Singh did but very little to restore
Lahore to its previous grandeur. Although, he did some repair work to the Shah Jahan’s
Shalimar Gardens and some of his ministers and courtiers build for themselves private
gardens, yet they could not match with the beauty and grandeur of the Mughal gardens.
Lahore despite being the capital of Ranjit Singh’s kingdom cannot boast of being
After the decline of the Mughals, most of the styles of architecture evolved
were hybrid products of earlier ones. Sikh architecture {if indeed the term
can be used} is a typical example of this evolution. All the most important
Sikh shrines have a pattern of their ownvery much in he line with the style
style. The domes adorn the open courtyard where the congregation sits.
This design was used in buildings other than temples. A notable example
After the death of Ranjit Singh in 1839 the Sikhs broke into a series of civil wars.
Their mutual conflicts and strifes provided the British, who were waiting in the wings,
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with a long awaited opportunity to take Lahore under control. After a couple of decisive
wars with the remnants of Ranjit Singh’s once mighty army, the British ultimately
annexed Lahore in 1849. After its annexation, Lahore had been amorphosized from being
a capital city of the Ranjit Singh’s kingdom to a provincial headquarter of the province of
the Punjab under the British rule. Their rule initiated a new era of urbanization of the city
of Lahore, a process of transformation and change from a medieval city to a modern city.
New ideas and concepts of social structure, architecture appeared which helped in setting
up of new social, political and educational institutions. Urbanization of Lahore under the
colonial rule brought a profound and momentous revolution of ideas in each and every
Although, the British constructed a new Lahore in more than one sense, yet, they did
not reject or discard completely and thoroughly the notions, concepts, traditions, customs
and norms of religion, culture, education, and architecture of Lahore they had occupied.
The British Lahore was a combination of the similar and dissimilar, an amalgamation of
varied and different things and opposite thoughts coming together forming a new locale, a
new cultural milieu, life style and above all a novel architectural design combining the
indigenous and the foreign concepts of construction. The buildings constructed in the
1860s, 70s and 80s on the Mall Road are an ample testimony of that new amorphous
architectural design where the local engineers like Bhai Ram Singh, Sir Ganga Ram, and
English engineers like Swinton Jacob, Lieutent Colonel Napier and last but not the least
DuCane Smythe created a new concept of building construction combing the dissimilar
design and architecture of the Gothic and the Mughal and thus created a new architecture
which had given Lahore some of its finest buildings on the Mall Road.
The initiatives of the British in the area of educational and religious culture, the
setting up of educational institutions and church schools made the Lahoris doubtful and
51
apprehensive of their designs. The reaction of the Lahoris was immediate and
spontaneous and they responded with the same verve and energy to protect themselves
against what they perceived a threat to their way of lifen, further led to certain movements
in these areas, movements which were reactionary to the idea of whatever was English
and at the same time profoundly and thoroughly effected and influenced by the ruling
English elite. The system of English education produced a class of Lahoris which was
only Lahori in blood but English in culture. They were the product of such educational
institutions as The Chief College and other missionary educational institutions in Lahore.
The Chief College was founded for a specific and definite purpose. And it was to
safeguard the British interests against the rise of the Lahori middle class coming out of
such colleges as DAV College Lahore and Islamia College Lahore. For the construction
of the Chief College the hereditary Sardars and the feudal lords of the Punjab made
generous contributions. Whereas the lower middle classes of the city gave donations for
the building up of DAV and Islamia College Lahore. The aim of education in these
institutions was to emphasize nationalism rather than loyalty with the British. It is
interesting to note that English language along with oriental languages was taught with
equal enthusiasm at these colleges. The new Lahori elite class consisted of the Muslims,
the Hindus and the Sikhs, all the three communities belonged to three different religious
and cultural ethos, thoroughly westernized, and yet retained their individual identities and
entities intact. And when the partition of the Punjab came in the fall of 1947, they found
themselves at loggers head against one another. The British education, political and social
culture and hundred years of British rule could not bridge their religious differences and
social prejudices against one another. Apparently they were westernized Lahoris, yet,
underneath the covering of that culture they remained conscious of their separate
identities and began to fall apart with the approach of the partition of India. The British
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pages of my thesis explain and elaborate how Lahore became an amorphous city under
the British rule. First of all I would like to throw light on the physical and architectural
In Lahore new buildings with new material were constructed. These buildings included
universities court houses and clubs. Streets and roads in Lahore were constructed using
new material and were given new names. In the Civil Station of Lahore a new kind of
residential house appeared which was called bungalow, separated from its surrounding
houses by green grassy belts and hedges. Initially the British altered and reshaped the
Mughal administrative system making it correspond with their own concepts, needs and
requirements. They set up various civil and military offices in the old Mughal structures,
Finally, the kinds of buildings British authorities chose to reuse were more
tradition, Mughal buildings were often massive in scale, finely built and
finished, and set apart from their surroundings as isolated objects in space.
(19)
Such massive and colossal changes and developments transformed the physical and
cultural outlook of Lahore. And the scale on which the physical, demographical,
geographical and cultural amorphousness of Lahore took place under the British can be
judged from the statements and comments recorded in the diaries and memories of the
travelers and diplomatic missions visiting Lahore in the rule of Ranjit Sing. A British
53
officer in Lord Charles T. Metcalfe’s diplomatic mission, who came to Lahore in the fall
of 1809, recorded a “melancholic picture of fallen splendour. Here the lofty dwellings and
masjids [mosques], which fifty years ago raised their tops to the skies and were the pride
of a busy and active population, are now crumbling into dust” ( xi ). After going through
the city and the surrounding areas he observed that “on going over these ruins I saw not a
human being; all was silence, solitude and gloom” (xi). In 1831 Lieutenant Alexander
Burnes on his arrival in Lahore found the streets of Lahore narrow and filthy. In 1838, a
year before the death of Ranjit Singh Charles Masson an employee of the East India
Company recorded his impressions of Lahore by saying that “ the extravagant praises
bestowed upon the [the city] by the historians of Hindustan … must be understood as
applicable to a former city” (xi). While the Mughals laid the physical and social outlook,
the British developed it on modern colonial lines and on the concepts and ideas of
urbanization and Lahore soon was amorphosized as a colonial city. Glover has referred to
The Imperial gazetteer of India for 1908 provides a sense of the range of
new institutions that structured urban life in Lahore by that time, most of
women), two British hospitals, and a large lunatic asylum located alongthe
banks of the Ravi River. Although the literacy rate amount the city’s
200,000 residents was less than 5 percent in 1901, Lahore had 5 liberal arts
manufacturing facilities in the city were a mill for spinning and weaving
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cotton that employed over 770 workers and the massive North-Western
mechanized oil and flour mills, and scores of printing presses in the city; a
“metropolis,” using the English term. As these people looked out over
their city; they no longer felt the sense of abandonment and gloom of only
The British made Lahore the seat of provincial government and also gave the modern
concept of social, economic and political institutions. With them began a new era of
systematic exposure of the Lahoris to Western influence. They changed the landscape of
Lahore by remapping it and built for themselves a new town to the south and south east of
the walled city. Later on this area came to known as Civil Lines:
The Civil Lines extended approximately from the McLeod Road in the
west to the Canal in the east, and from the Railway Station in the north to
Jail Road in the south. Here are the Government officers’ residences
(GOR), the Governor House, the Gymkhana Club , the Race Course, the
cricket Ground and until recently (1960s), the Civil and Military Gazette’s
British officials, their homes, clubs shopping centers and playgrounds. Lahore witnessed
Charles Dike visited the city as a young man in 1867, he recorded that
The British were not bound by the social obligations of kinship, century’s old
tradition in India, so they created for themselves an island in the sea of natives. The idea
that as colonizers they were superior to the natives in all respects also created in them a
feeling of seclusion and isolation. The creation of secluded areas called the Civil Lines
was a common feature of British way of life in India. It had even become an integral part
of their creative imagination. While describing the stereotypical imaginary colonial city
As for the civil station… it is sensibly planned, with a red-brick club on its
brow, and farther back a grocer’s and a cemetery, and the bungalows are
disposed along roads that intersect at right angles. It has nothing hideous in
it, and only the view is beautiful; it shares nothing with the city except the
The Civil Lines in every colonial city in India was an exclusive area for the Britons. It
shared nothing with the rest of the city: “On the second rise is laid out the little civil
station, and viewed hence Chandra pore appears to be a totally different place. It is a city
pleasaunce washed by a noble river” (9). Whereas the same part of the city inhabited by
the Indians presents the picture of a different city where “the streets are mean, the temples
56
ineffective, and though a few fine houses exist they are hidden away in gardens or down
alleys whose filth deters all but the invited guest” (9).
In time the Indian officials and professionals also began to live in the Civil Lines. A
wide tree lined boulevard known, as the Mall became the spine of the Civil Lines. The
Lahoris began to call it the thandi sarak because of its greenery and spaciousness. Along
this artery were constructed most of the new buildings of the British administration, the
Government House (1849) the High Court (1889) Central Telegraph Office (1880) the
University Hall (1876) the General Post Office (1912). These buildings are not only
monuments commemorating the rule of the new dynasty, but also symbols of social
institutions and practices that came with the British. The British government also built
railways, introduced public transport, and established schools, hospitals and other
buildings for public use. In the 1860s the British built a cantonment for the troops at a
distance of five miles from the Civil Lines. All these modern measures and practices
changed the face of Lahore. It became three towns in one. This kind of amorphousness
Lahore never experienced before. According to Qadeer the British introduced a new
The bungalow, the flush toilet, wide roads, the clubs and the cricket
grounds became the necessities of life. Obviously this life style could only
be available to the rich and the influential in the Civil Lines. In the old city
and the surrounding villages, where the majority lived, there were few
changes. Thus began the process of dualization of life style and economy
that divides the city of the elite from the indigenous town of the masses.
(72)
The network of roads and the traffic pattern introduced by the British in the areas
called the Civil Station clearly indicates the fact that all the facilities and modern
57
necessities of life were only meant for them and there was little change for the natives
living in the walled city in terms of availability of the necessities of life and social
development. Rudduck, an Australian town planner, remarks that the roads built by the
British were designed to “enable sahibs to drive sedately from office to their homes or
clubs,” (qtd. in Qadeer 6) and little notice was taken of existing street patterns and traffic
needs, thus creating a dual and conflicting system of roads and traffic representing, as it
The British conquest of the Sub-continent turned out to be a turning point in its
history. It exposed the Indian Sub-continent to the western influence. New institutions
were built and new social patterns were introduced during the British Rule. The road
development along with railway system and the telecommunication system brought a
great revolution in the popular thinking of the Indians. It not only changed the landscape
but also altered the Indian society and further accelerated the pace of social change.Yet
these institutions and facilities were available to the elite class loyal to the British
interests. “For the majority of the Indians remained unaffected by such changes which
however, could not seep down to the poverty-stricken and deprived Indians. The British
transformed the life of small elite, and turned them into an island of modernity in a sea of
The British took Lahore from the Sikhs in the fall of 1849. The civil war amongst
the various claimants of Ranjit Singh after his demise in 1839 had turned Lahore into a
city of ruins. The residential areas and the gardens outside the walled city were in
shambles. And the residential area in the walled city was narrow and crowed; there was
no concept of independent space for the commercial activity. Consequently, the narrow
streets of the walled city remained over crowed and stingy. Glover mentions the building
The architectural idiom of the walled city is a three storey house covering
100 percent of its lot, having a flat roof, high walls, screened balconies and
frequently, a light well. Along the main streets, houses have shops at the
nonexistent. Overall density in the walled city is about 500 persons per
acre. (81)
The commercial markets or mandis in the walled city were not separate from the
residential areas which had made the walled city crammed and crowded. The commercial
activity from morning till evening created great hustle and bustle in the streets of Lahore.
However, “the British introduced the practice of separating commercial areas from
homes. This was not only a transplantation of a European town planning notion, but also
an expression of their rigid, formal and highly differentiated life routines wherein work,
The British remapped Lahore on colonial lines. Mapping and re-mapping of the
conquered lands and areas was an integral part of colonial strategy of domination:
(White1)
Maps, therefore, are the symbol of political and cultural domination of the colonizer upon
the colonized. They further define the power relationships between the colonizer and the
59
colonized. Maps also enabled the colonizing powers to explore the regions dominated or
occupied to bring under control their potential resources. David Turbull is of the view that
mapping of the conqured lands made “possible the building of empries, disciplines like
cartography and the concept of land ownership that can be subject to juridical processes”
(55).
The British gave Lahore a new shape and form. First of all they set up a network of
roads and established educational institutions. They also set up a political structure to
govern the conquered areas. The idea of political dominance was not enough. The
colonization was further emphasized by establishing places of worship. And for this
purpose the old edifices were utilized. The first building, which served this purpose, was
the tomb of Anarkali. It was modified to perform the religious service. The Protestant
community of Lahore used it as a church. But there is a record of using Dian Sign’s
Haveli as a church as well. The haveli was fitted up as a place of public worship for the
Christian garrison of the fort. The garrison engineer was recorded to spend Rs.341-7-6
“for fitting up Raja Dhian Singh’s house at Lahore as a temporary place of worship”
(Goulding 11) and “the fittings constituted of 40 benches, three punkhas, a book stand
and bamboo chicks” (11). In the early days of their rule the British built few new
buildings, they introduced some structural changes in the buildings, which already existed
and used them according to their administrative requirements. Many of the old tombs and
mosques of the Mughal were used as residences or offices. Mr. Cope, editor of the Lahore
Chronicle used the mosque of Dai Anga situated near the Lahore railway station as his
residence and when Mr. Cope vacated it, the Traffic Manager of Railway department
made it his office. The masjid of Shah Chiragh served the purpose of the office of the
Accountant General for many years and later on it also housed the session courts as well.
The tomb of Muhammad Kasim Khan, a famous saint of the Mughal period was the first
60
Government House in the British Lahore. The tomb of Anarkali has a very interesting
history since its construction. It had been built over the grave of Anarkali a dancing girl in
the court of Akbar, the Mughal Emperor. She was bricked alive by the orders of the
Emperor who suspected her having an affair with his heir apparent Jahangir. Her tomb
was completed in the year of 1615. During the Sikhs rule, Sardar Kharak Sing Maharaja
Ranjit Singh’s heir apparent took possession of it. Later on it was given to General
Ventura who used it as a private residence .When the Punjab was annexed by the British
Government in 1849 the clerical staff of the Government made it as their office after a
few rooms were added to the main building. After the clerical staff had vacated the tomb
in 1851 it was decided to use it for Divine Service on Sundays after some modifications
and alterations in the building. It was in 1891 that the tomb was again converted into an
office for the storage of Secretariat records and is still being used for that purpose. This
was the beginning of the physical and architectural amorphousness of Lahore where the
two different and opposite styles and designs of architecture intermingle and mixed
The British were Christian by faith. Wherever they had gone as colonizer, they made
concentrated efforts to preach and propagate their religion. Lahore was no exception to
this practice and tradition. With the arrival of Christian missionaries in Lahore there
number of churches, hospitals and schools in Lahore to impress upon the Lahoris a
benevolent aspect of colonization. They further augmented the work of the rulers who
were bent upon consolidating their hold over the land. The churches built in Lahore also
changed its landscape. Along with the mosques, temples and gordwaras, the concrete and
physical manifestation of religion, the churches added a new dimension to the religious
61
culture of Lahore. Of course, there was resistance to the spread of new faith, but gradually
with the unrelenting support and patronization of new faith by the rulers Christianity
began to make headway not only in Lahore but also in the whole of the Punjab. The
poverty of the people facilitated their work. They lured the people to Christianity by
The missionaries began to set up schools in Lahore. The main objective behind the
idea and concept of missionary education was to capture and colonize the mind of the
natives in order to perpetuate and prolong the British rule in the Punjab. Soon after the
institutions.The Revd.C.Sloggett took the lead by opening up a school for the European
and Eurasian children in the Fort in the fall of 1886. Amongst the 44 students enrolled 20
were girls. Another school, the Lahore High School was established in the old barracks in
the Anarkali bazaar .The best teaching staff was selected to teach the students and with
the appointment of Mr. Henry Thompson as the headmaster, the school established its
reputation as the best school in the town. The school committee took a very important and
the school. Under him the school improved its standard and quality of education. Through
the untiring efforts of Mr. Baldwin another institution was set up. It was the orphanage
open up an educational institution in Lahore. The permission was granted and the well-
known Rang Mahal School came into existence. The Rang Mahal building was
constructed in the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. Some time in the Mughal rule it
had also been used as a courthouse. Before it was sold to the American Mission, it served
the purpose of a police station. The Board of Administration accepted the offer of Rs.1,
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000 made by the Rev, though its estimated price was Rs.4, 000.The Board kept the
philanthropic object in view. The Rang Mahal School developed in course of time into
Forman Christian College. It was in 1856 that a proposal for setting up a central college
with the Dean of Carlisle and the Rev.G.E.L.Cotton, the headmaster of Marlborough
School, in order to have the services of two competent graduates from London for
proposed college. It was also emphasized that the men selected as teachers should be
graduates of Oxford, Cambridge, Dublin or Durham. Mr. John Lawrence did not agree to
the proposals and suggested that the scheme be postponed for a couple of years. The
feature of that scheme ever to lostsight of, and I shall be eager to submit its
growth of the Punjab were at a loss for want of a college than establish
acollege into which the few representatives of the educated class had to be
collected. (Goulding11)
Dhian Singh’s Haveli, inside the Taxali Gate of the city Government College Lahore was
established. Dr.G.W. Leitner was appointed as the first Principal of this newly established
institution. Along with missionary education, the British also followed the practice of
mapped and remapped Lahore. According to Ashcroft, Gareth and Tiffin, “In all cases the
63
lands so colonized are literally reinscribed, written over, as the names and languages of
the indigenous are replaced by new names, or are corrupted into new and europeanized
forms by the cartographer and explorer” (32).The British, therefore, laid down a network
of roads and set up new localities. The main attraction of Lahore is the Mall of which the
Lahorites are so proud of. It is still called the ‘thandi sarak’. The big beautiful trees on
either side add beauty and coolness to the atmosphere and keep the temperature at least
two degrees down even in the scorching heat of summer. It was first aligned in 1851 by
none other than Lieu-Colonel Napier, the Civil Engineer, who described it as “a direct
road from Anarkali to Mian Mir” (Goulding 47). It is interesting to note that “Napier
submitted alternative estimates for its construction, one for Rs.12, 544 and the other for
Rs.10, 428. The former was for kankar throughout, the latter for an under layer of bricks
with a kankar surface” (47). Napier favored the cheaper design. Consequently, the British
Government accepted the proposals put forward by Napier and the lower estimate had
been sanctioned in April 1851. Sir Ganga Ram had made some alterations in the original
design when he was the Executive Engineer in charge of the Lahore Provincial Division.
Extensive improvements were made in the areas east of the Post office. Later on
Mr.DuCane Smythe, Chief Engineer, supervised by the then Lieutenant Governor, Sir
Charles Rivaz made major altearions and the road on its present lines came into shape. No
record is available to confirm when the direct road from Anarkali to Mian Mir was first
officially called the Upper Mall. In the maps previous to 1876 it was referred to as
Lawrence Road. It is interesting to note that the road now known as the Lower Mall from
the Deputy Commissioner’s court to the Multan Road junction was originally called Mall
between the Government House and Anarkali, Civil Station, was named as Donald Town.
It is possible that the road acquired its new name during this time.
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In the early years of the British occupation of Lahore there was hardly any building
from Mian Mir towards the Government House after crossing the canal. There were
barren plains on both sides of the road. One could only see an old double storeyed
bungalow on the left. It was owned by the Maharaja of Patiala. This building remained in
possession of Anglican Bishop of Lahore for some years and was called Bishopsbourne.
Further down towards the Charing Cross were the Lawrence Gardens and the Lawrence
and the Montgomery Halls, with Government House on the opposite side stand, next to
the Government House was a place called Arundel, occupied by Mr.R.Burney, I.C.S
officer. A little distance away from the Arundel gateway on the same side there stood the
famous old Punjab club, an unattractive structure resembling a barrack with its racket-
court at the back. It was the famous rendezvous of young and old I.C.S. officers. Later on
Nedou’s Hotel was built on this site. The Mall did not have any buildings on the opposite
side of the road. The Masonic Lodge was raised in 1916, which was a structure worth
seeing. There were no buildings on the left between Charing Cross and the Hall Road
crossing, except the one where Mr. Bremner had his studio and on the opposite side of
this section of the road there were only three bungalows. The office of the Director of
Industries occupied one of the three bungalows. Later on this building was taken by the
Ford Motor Company. This is the same building which housed the Civil and Military
Gazette where Mr. Rudyard Kipling worked as a journalist. This building also served as
the office of the Military Secretary to the Punjab Government for a couple of years in the
early 1880s.
Between the Hall Road crossing and the spot where the Lawrence statue once stood
with full glory, there stood only one building, which was occupied by the late Mr. Jas
Davison who had his carriage shops there. On the left there were two buildings, the one
was known as “The Exchange has now been demolished to make room for Sir Ganga
65
Ram’s block of business premises. The other was the building occupied for many years
by Messrs Phelps Co, which was demolished to make room for the show rooms and
workshops of the Bombay Cycle and Motor Agency” (50). The only edifice on the place
where the High Court building now stands was the shrine of Shah Chiragh well known
saint of the time of Emperor Shah Jahan.The tomb of the saint was used by an office by
the Accountant General. This shrine was also the office of the Principal Assistant to the
Deputy Commissioner for many years. Opposite to the shrine on the other side of the
road, there was only one building which was occupied by Messrs Richardson & Co, the
predecessors of Messer Plomer & Co. They were the only chemists in the town. After
crossing Shah Chiragh’s tomb no building could be seen on either side of the road. The
General Post Office and the Alliance Bank on the left, and the telegraph office, Imperial
bank, Forman Christian College, Mool Chand’s shop and the Y.M.C.A. had not been
constructed yet .The whole place was open. The open spots and sites were later on filled
up with the construction of such imposing buildings as the Masonic Hall, Shah Din
Buildings, and Mela Ram’s buildings, the Post and Telegraph Offices and the High Court.
Some of the old structures such as Nedou’s and Sniffle’s hotels, the Civil and Military
Gazette offices, Salim Buildings and the show rooms and workshop of the Bombay Cycle
and Motor Agency were demolished and replaced with some new structures in the 1920s
and 1930s.
In addition to the Mall Road, there were a good number of roads named after the
Civil Engineers. On the one hand, these names commemorate the services rendered by
these British officials to serve the British Empire; some of them laid down their lives
during the days of Indian Mutiny and on the other, they are the living signs and symbols
of their imperial power and domination. The famous roads such as:
66
Beadon, Brandreth, Cooper, Cust, Lake, Hall and Nisbet, perpetuate the
some of whom, notably Mr. Cooper and Colonel Parry Nisbet did so much
after Sir Richard Temple… Thornton Road after a very distinguished civil
established the first Punjab Volunteer Corps and was its first commandant;
Edwardes Road after the famous soldier and administrator, Sir Herbert
Edwards, Napier Road after the first Civil Engineer of the Punjab, Colonel
R.Napier; Lawrence, Mayo and Lytton Roads are named after former
The act of naming the roads after these officials, who did yeomen service to strengthen
the British rule in this part of the Sub-continent, in fact, is an acknowledgement of their
An important feature of British occupation of Lahore was that the city was organized
on modern lines. In the early days of their occupation the English were preoccupied to
establish themselves as rulers. The focus was on having a strong and efficient
administration. Along with the civil structure it was considered essential to display
military power as well. The Indian mutiny of 1857 brought a sea change in their
thinking and they evolved a new strategy to deal with any eventuality in future. The
construction and structural design of the buildings used as offices and residential areas
indicate the fact that in case of another mutiny or armed uprising of the natives such
67
buildings could be used as citadels. They felt secured in such edifices. Lahore,
The setting up of G.O.R. at a distance from the areas inhabited by the natives was
again an attempt to keep them at arms length to show their racial and cultural
supremacy, a display of contempt and abhorrence for the natives whom they claimed to
rule with justice. They either altered and modified the existing structures, the mosques,
shrines and havalis, or set up camps with full display of military pomp and show on
open spaces. The Lahore Fort initially served as their headquarter with the Union Jack
fluttering in the air. It was in the 1880s that the new construction of buildings and
private houses began to catch the sight of people. The city of Lahore under the British
began to expand. The roads developed and the houses began to appear on their sides. It
was a new city not like the walled city with narrow and dark streets and bazaars
bustling with people. Till 1890s there was not a single house on the Davis Road, which
soon developed itself into one of the best residential areas, with beautifully laid out
Railway Colony in the Mayo Gardens just behind it. The Chief’s College and its
had a great passion for building houses. He constructed a couple of houses on the Lake
and Ferozepur roads; a couple more on the Mozang Road. The bungalows built on the
another Secretary to the Government. Later on this bungalow was purchased by Justice
Shah Din. Mr. Davis constructed another beautiful house on the Ferozepore Road later
on the same building came under the use of the Church of England Zenana Mission.
Another palatial house built on the opposite side of the same road was taken by Nawab
Sir Zulfikar Ali Khan and hence became his property. Mr. Havilland was the only
European who owned a large property in that locality. Nearest to his house was the
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Bahawalpur House on the west and still further west was the large estate known as the
Poonch House situated on the Multan Road near the Chauburji. Sayad Muhammad Latif
in his book Lahore: Its History, Architectural Remains and Antiquities claims that the
Poonch House was owned by Sir John Lawrence who built it in the year of 1848. But
Mrs. Higgings, who at the time of her death, two years ago, was by far the
oldest inhabitant of Lahore, that she and her husband owned this house and
the Punjab Chief Court, who lived in it until his retirement.It was then
Mr.T.Evans of the Punjab Police and J.A. Robinson Treasury Officer at Lahore are
credited with building of houses on the section of Lawrence Road from the Ferozepur
Road crossing to Race Course Road. The houses which Mr. Robinson constructed came
to be known as The Peak houses. Previous to this construction the only bungalow
existed there, was called The Park. It was originally occupied by Mr. Justice Lindsay,
one of the first Judges of the Chief Court and later on by Mr. Alexander Anderson,
Financial Commissioner. Malik Feroze Khan purchased the house built by Mr. Evans.
There were quite a few old houses at the northern end of the Multan Road. Amongst
those who lived there mentioned may be made of some of the distinguished
at-law, Mr. Stogdon, and Sir Frederick Robertson, all judges of the Chief Court and Sir
sahib-ki-kothi” was another distinguished house of that locality. Mr. H.C. Fanshawe
was secretary to Government whose name the natives could hardly pounce correctly. So
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they corrupted his name to “Pincher” which became popular even amongst his
colleagues. Messrs Richardson & Co purchased this house. They were the Chemists,
who were the pioneers in this business. It was in the year of 1881 that the Telegraph
Office was constructed at the junction of the Mall and McLeod Road. Previous to this it
was housed in an old bungalow, behind the Pipals, in the vicinity of Anarkali’s tomb.
The Settlement Commissioner and Director of Land Records also used it as his office
for some time, till it became the office of the Director of Agriculture. In the
neighborhood of this bungalow, there were some other fine buildings also. The
Government Press was situated in the old building near the Veterinary College before it
was removed to one of the old bungalows already mentioned. Before that the
Government Press was situated in the old barrack between the Financial
another important street called the Court Street; so because it’s southern end opens into
the compound of the Chief Court. This street was parallel to the Lower Mall. Since it
was inhabited by the members of the local bar, it was also referred to rather
sarcastically as “Shark’s Lane,” The bar was later on shifted to another street called
Fane Road, which came to be known as the new “Shark’s Lane or “Thieves’ Alley”. It
was in 1889 that the Chief Court was shifted to its present place on the Mall Road, its
previous premises on being vacated was given to the office of the Financial
Commissioner and the Inspector General of Police moved his office into the building
In the Early eighties two of the bungalows in the Court Street were occupied by
Civil and Military Gazette Press before it was shifted from there. The Deputy
Commissioner also had his house in that locality as it was convenient for him to go to
his Kachari close by. Mr. Jones was the original owner of the Nabha House, later on
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occupied by Lala Lajpat Rai and before him it was occupied by “ Mr.E.W.Trotter,
Superintendent of Stamps, a most efficient and enthusiastic volunteer officer who did
very valuable work in the days when paid Adjutants were unknown” (62). During the
days when Anarkali was the cantonment, most of the old bungalows in the Court Street
were officer’s quarters. When the Arya Samj and other institutions were set up there,
some of the old bungalows were demolished. In 1849 the General Post Office was set
up in an old building resembling a barrack on the site occupied by the Public Works
Secretariat and:
small cottage opposite the Public Library, known as Lackland and used
for some years as the headquarters office and armoury of the 1st
building…”(62).
This was the Lahore the British built presenting a contrast with the ancient walled
city. And the Englishmen inhabiting this new and modern Lahore added a new
dimension to the life of the city. Their grand and palatial edifices and residences gave
Lahore a true colonial appearance and form by adding an English color to an Indian
landscape, a landscape, a space already possessed by the Muslims, the Hindus and the
Sikhs. The amalgamation of the similar and the dissimilar added a new dimension to the
city of Lahore. Lahore had become a city where the colonizer and the colonized
inhabited two diametrically opposite worlds and at the same time these two different
worlds came together and met at the fringes to form a new cultural and religious ethos,
The British in Lahore devised and followed a dual strategy of relationship with the
local people. They ostracized the commoners on the one hand, and on the other
cultivated cordial relationship with the aristocracy and the landed gentry of the Punjab.
The native chiefs of the Punjab had supported the British in the war of 1857.
Consequently, the British had decided to reward their allies. They generously
distributed and awarded big chunks of land to them. And in order to raise their social
prestige in the eyes of the people made specific arrangements for the education of their
children. Their children were made honorary magistrates in the civil administration and
honorary majors and colonels in the British army. The collaboration between the native
chiefs of the Punjab and the British created a unique amorphous culture in Lahore
which manifested and translated itself through new architectural design which
flourished in Lahore during the early period of the British Raj. The edifices raised in the
1860s in Lahore are the symbols of this new relationship. Lawrence Hall and
Montgomery Hall are the two initially constructed buildings in Lahore, Lawrence Hall
was constructed in 1861-62 and Montgomery Hall in 1866, which express and elaborate
the kind of collaboration the British had with the elite class of Lahore. These buildings
were raised in the honor of these two British administrators and the construction work
was financed and sponsored by the local aristocracy. Their architectural design was
strikingly differently from the one the city of Lahore had before the British Raj. These
buildings laid the foundation of a new kind of architectural amorphousness and cultural
were joined by an eighty foot passage with a prominent clock tower at its
lined its interior walls; these men’s putative accomplishment was to place
the British Raj at the apex of Punjab’s ruling hierarchy, whose aristocratic
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the new imperial system. The joining of the Lawrence and Montgomery
the elite European and the aristocratic Indian patrons who donated the
The Lawrence Hall was specially conceived and constructed as an exclusive structure
for the European community of Lahore and its approach was from the Mall Road to
which it faced. The natives were not allowed to mix with the British. Local theatrical
companies along with the visiting traveling troupes used to give captivating
performances in the Hall. Montgomery Hall on the other hand hosted functions where
the British officials and the Lahori aristocracy could easily interact. A botanical garden,
a zoo and a civic park, later on collectively called the Lawrence Gardens were also
constructed on the surrounding areas. Like the two halls, “the garden’s major elements
were all financed through a combination of provincial, municipal, and private funds
from both the British and the elite Indian residents of the city. The Lawrence Gardens
Lahore is The Punjab Chief’s College, later on renamed Aitcheson Chief’s College in
1886. This institution is a true manifestation of the collaboration between the British
and the Punjabi aristocracy, a symbol of meeting of interests of both the collaborators.
It was in the 1860s that the idea of educating the local ruling class in a rarified academic
environment very much similar to the English boarding school atmosphere came to the
surface. “The Chief College scheme was conceived as an academic setting that would
73
confer on the indigenous aristocracy both modern academic training and, importantly,
new modes of personal character” (69). Another idea behind the setting up of such an
inclusive institution was to protect the interests of the “hereditary leaders” of the Punjab
which had come under threat as a result of the rise of a small but educated Punjabi
middle class. So their patrons came to their rescue aiming at equipping them with the
much needed leadership qualities to serve their masters. Charles Aitcheson spoke his
mind at the ceremony lying the foundation stone for the institution, “let it be our earnest
hope that there may rise a still finer edifice in which the aristocracy of the Punjab shall
be the polished corner stones, bright examples to their fellow countrymen of true
manliness, of the highest culture and the gentlest manners that the times can boast”
(72). Great care was taken while designing the various blocks of the college. They were
particularly designed to reflect the concept of political and cultural relationship the
British were embarking upon to cultivate with the exclusive class of the feudal lords.
Marble plates affixed to the various blocks of the college bearing the names of the
honorable donors, the Sardars, the Nawabs of the Punjab and the elite philanthropist
aristocracy of Lahore; the Indians and the British as members on various committees of
the college are indicative of a new culture and relationship between the ruler and the
At the same time, each setting used a range of architectural and spatial
Montgomery Hall, the botanical gardens, the pleasure grounds, and the
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The larger building design was the combined work of one native engineer named Bhai
Ram Sing, the then head assistant to John Lockwood Kipling, the then principal of
Lahore’s Mayo School of Art and a British engineer named Swinton Jacob, who had
already earned his reputation as an engineer who could understand and perceive the
local conditions, traditions and the ideology of the British. The final architectural design
of the college includes pre-Mughal umbrella like pattern on each corner of the building,
the brickwork on the lower story betraying the Mughal pattern and the arches and
marble screens used in the Umayyad Spain. A distinguishing feature of the main block
is a “large bronze click of English manufacture on the domed octagonal tower rising
College, and institutions patronized by the British government and the Christian
missionaries, there was another kind of educational system initiated and followed by the
natives, both the Muslims and the Hindus. The natives were apprehensive and fearful of
the British educational designs which they considered were meant to promote
colonialism on the one hand, and on the other convert the natives to Christianity. The
response and reaction of the natives manifested itself in the form of such educational
institutions as Dayanand Anglo Vedic (DAV) College, Diyal Sing College and Islamia
College Lahore where great care was taken in the designing of syllabus and other
literary and cultural activities. These institutions opened their doors to the middle and
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lower middle class students who were barred from taking admission to those colleges
exclusively meant for the elite of the Punjab and aristocracy of Lahore. Socio-religious
associations and the philanthropists of Lahore were in the forefront of the movement
aiming at meeting with the educational needs and requirements of the middle class and
the lower middle class students. In addition to inculcating education and discipline these
institutions aimed at hammering the ideas of nationalism into the minds of the students
in order to save them from being Anglicized. So, Lahore in the mid 19th century was
fast becoming a city of colleges where dual system of education was being followed
and this duality in the present day Lahore is still continuing in the manifestation of
With the arrival of the British the commercial activities began to pick up pace. Soon
the city became an important center of business in the Sub-continent. The banks were
opened to cater to the commercial activities of the traders and businessmen. The Bank
of Bengal, the National Bank of India, the Alliance Bank of Simla opened their
branches in Lahore. It has already been mentioned that Lahore in the 1880s was fast
business. Messrs. Jamsetji & Sons, one of the oldest firms established in Lahore in
1862, enjoyed monopoly for sale of general European stores, wine and spirits, toys and
ammunition. The firm had its office on the Lower Mall later on demolished to make
room for the Government College hostel. Gradually European tailors, milliners or dress-
makers, drapers’ shops, miscellaneous stores chemists, music shops began to appear on
the Mall Road and Anarkali area. Before that Mian Mir was the shopping center for the
Europeans. At Mian Mir Nur Hussain and Rahim Bakhsh were the well known
merchants who shifted their business to Anarkali later on when Anarkali had become
the main shopping center of Lahore. William Ball was perhaps the first European who
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Printing Press. He left Government job to set up his own printing press. He also opened
a bookseller’s shop, an auction room, and a stationer’s shop. He also opened the first
general store of its kind in the city. He published “Punjab Record” along with reference
books for the lawyers and the judicial officers. His son-in-law, Mr. J.J. Davis took over
his business on his retirement and shifted the press to his private residence in the Court
Street. On his retirement the press was amalgamated with the Civil & Military Gazette.
With the arrival of the British in Lahore after its annexation new fashions of dress
had set in. Tailoring business began to thrive and gradually new tailor shops sprang up
in the area of Mian Mir. Messrs Clark & Co, Adlard & Co, or Davidge Brothers at Mian
Mir set up their tailoring business and set also new designs in stitching. Phelps & Co.
took the lead in establishing their business on the Upper Mall, while Mr. Garrioch
inaugurated similar enterprise on the Lower Mall. It should be kept in mind that only
the Europeans could afford to place their orders to such tailors. Majority of the local
people would stitch their clothes by themselves at home and most of them were
shabbily dressed. There was also a different class of merchants, called itinerant cloth
merchants, selling cloth moving from one house to another. And “they were
accompanied by a kahar carrying a banghi consisting of two large bundles; they were
also the moneylenders and in the course of time became the founders of certain wealthy
firms which still exist and are now well-known bankers and house-owners”(70-1).
Chhota Lal, Dina Nath and Pehlad Das were such prominent figures. So in the city of
Lahore two different life and dressing styles ran parallel to each other.
Amongst some of the new professions which gained currency with the arrival of the
studio in the Lahore fort and did quite a good business. Mr. James Craddock another
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successful businessman opened his studio on the Lower Mall. He already had his studio
at Simla. Before the British occupied Lahore, there was hardly any tradition of dinning
in the hotels. This tradition had been introduced by the British. Goulding states:
the hotels in Lahore are poor, though there is little doubt that a really good
hotel would pay, owing to the flux of travelers at certain seasons of the year.
The Punjab hotel, Mrs. Clark’s hotel, the Victoria and the Montgomery are
the most frequented by European visitors. But in the late sixties, Miller’s
and Goose’s situated on McLoad Road, were the two best known and most
Some of the old bungalows were used as hotels. Some Mrs. Hiller opened a hotel of a
superior class in Caversham, the house at the junction of Ferozepur and Mozang Roads.
The hotel business during those days largely depended on the patronage of “birds of
passage”. This business began to thrive when the residents of Lahore developed the
habit of visiting hotels. In order to meet the demand of good hotels, equipped with
sufficient facilities more bungalows were converted into hotels. The hotel that soon
acquired the reputation of an up to date hotel was established in the bungalow by Mr.
Nedou. It was situated on the Upper Mall. The hotel which Mrs. Cunningham opened in
an old bungalow on the Lower Mall did fairly good business. The bars and the dance
halls of the hotels drew young soldiers and civil servants out of their tents and made
their evenings colorful and exciting. This was a new culture, unfamiliar and unheard of
The British military and civil officials promoted various sports and pastimes.
Amongst the games promoted mention may be made of polo, cricket, football etc, etc.
The idea was to spend the leisure time in a healthy activity on the one hand, and on the
other, to display strength and togetherness against the “others”. The sports were used as a
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means of exhibiting the physical power and the sense of superiority of the colonial power
over the natives. The first race-course was laid out on the Lahore Fort parade ground later
on named the Minto Park. It should be borne in mind that during those days the Fort and
Anarkali constituted the cantonment and the civil lines. When Mian Mir was made the
cantonment the race-course was shifted there. There was a big swimming bath of pucca
brick, with a fine racket court close by in the area just behind the shrine of Data Ganj
Bakhsh and Mela Ram’s Mills. This swimming pool and the racket court were situated in
the garden popularly known as The Soldiers’ Garden. It is believed that this garden was
laid out by one of the members of the Rattigan family. The garden was converted into a
“place of public resort” by the orders of the Chief Commissioner. This could be called the
crinolines, with attendant swains in peg-top trousers and tall hats, wearing
beards and whiskers of portentous size, strolling about among the flower-
Probably the European garrison stationed at the Fort played cricket under the shade of
the walls of old Fort. This was the beginning of cricket in Lahore. Later on cricket clubs
were established whose membership was restricted to civil and military officers. Schools
and colleges were encouraged to have cricket teams and “each school and college had its
own cricket club and inter-school matches were frequently played in the early seventies”
(77). Football was another game which was popular amongst the ruling white junta, a
game to exhibit physical power and prowess. Supports and outdoor games were also an
essential part of the imperial culture in Lahore. Cricket, football and the like were taken
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to be the display of power and manhood. Chakarty has made a very perceptive
It was widely believed that the Raj would be more faithfully served by a
teaching skill in cricket, a Harrow inscription added, the boys were taught
with a judicious selection from varied manly sports like pig sticking,
Lahore, therefore, after the annexation of the Punjab in the year of 1849 was fast
becoming a modern city with all the prominent characteristics and aspects of a colonial
headquarter of the province of the Punjab. The colonial part of the city, its new face, was
a striking contrast with that of the walled city. The modern educational institutions,
government offices, the gardens, the roads and other monuments generating a new culture
and approach, fresh and modern outlook, had brought an unprecedented amorphousness
of the city that it was inevitable for the natives to be fascinated and captivated by the
newness of Lahore.
Like the other colonial cities of the Sub-continent, Lahore, slowly but steadily, was
on its way to modernity after it had been annexed by the British. The beginning of the
twentieth century witnessed so many upheavals, social, political, and religious in the Sub-
content. They also cast their shadows on Lahore. In Lahore as in rest of the Sub-continent
the forces of modernity were creating some problems of adjustment and absorption for
the natives. Referring to the dilemma of the Muslims Ayesha Jalal in her book Self and
Sovereignty: Individual Community In South Asian Islam Since 1850 writes, “By far the
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most emotive was the multifaceted question of how Muslims could go about
Islam” (67). The launching of religious reformation movements by the Hindus and the
Sikhs had further multiplied their problems. On the one hand, the Lahoris were
increasingly becoming conscious of their social, political and religious identities and on
the other, they attempted to combine the modern with the traditional. This consciousness
of having separate identities was driving them towards two contradictory directions,
political separatism and religious cohesiveness. And their attempts at combining the
modern with the traditional was germinating confusion and split of identity. Lahore,
therefore, experienced a new kind of amorphousness not only in terms of its cultural,
political and religious realities but also in terms of human relationship. Lahore was fast
becoming politically and religiously agitated and there was a constant rise of tension in
the communal situation. Things began to melt in the crucible of politics and religion.
With the advent of the nineteenth century there were some new developments in the
international relations of world powers. The expansion of the Russian Empire on the
northern border of the Sub-continent was a matter of great concern for the British who
found themselves at loggers head with the Russians whom they imagined were hovering
over the northern boarder of India inhabited by the azad tribes and the valiant Pathans.
The Russian revolution in 1916 further aggravated the situation for the British. They
considered it a ‘white man’s burden’ to save India from the communist revolution. The
setting up of an elaborate and effective espionage system to check the activities of the
Russians was a significant part of an overall strategy which the British had evolved to
check the expansion of Russia. The Punjab being adjacent to the northern areas served the
colonial purpose rather effectively. The expansive railway and road network to provide
logistic support to the British forces stationed in the northern areas speaks volumes of
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British strategy to deal with any future eventuality. The setting up of cantonments in the
length and breath of the Punjab was also an important part of British preparations for a
possible military clash with the Russians. Lahore being the provincial headquarter of the
Punjab was the centre of all those activities and preparations which the British made
against the Russians. Kipling in his book Kim (1901) has highlighted Lahore as an
important centre of espionage and has used the conflict between the British and the
location, geography, demography, history and architecture. The main source which has
been thoroughly and exhaustively ransacked and explored for this purpose is the history
of Lahore its legends, myths and folktales. From Chapter Two to Chapter Four my
research would move from history to non-history, fiction and novels where Lahore is the
locale and in between I would like to refer to memoirs and reminiscences of those who
lived in Lahore before 1947, the partitioning year, migrated to India, yet preserved what
was Lahore in their writings. This effort of focusing on fiction and other prose writings
would thread history and non-history together and provide continuity in my research on
END NOTES
CHAPTER ONE
1
Roughly this period is the mid second to mid first millennium BCE during which the Vedas texts related
important part of the Hindu Canon. The epic consists of 24,000 verses in seven books and 500cantos. The
of the history of that Indo-Scythian hero, who is identified with Sri Syalapati Deva, whose cions are still
found all over the Punjab. He is supposed to have lived between the period of first Arab invasions of
flourished in Egypth under Roman rule. His astronomical treatise, “Almagist”, Geographical treatise,
Muslim rulers of India. His Tarikh-I Firishta is a monumental work on the history of Muslim rulers in India.
10
Abu Rayhan Biruni (973-1048), was a Persian Muslim scholar and polymath of the 11th century. He came
to India in 1030 along with Muhmud of Ghazi. He learned Indian language, religion and philosophy. His
book Tarikh-al-Hind is considered to be one of the best books written on ancient India. He was also a great
traveled to Indus valley, Arabiqa, Syria, Caspian Sea and Armenia. He wrote many books on a variety of
83
scholarly topics but his major work is “Akhbar az- azaman”, (The History of Time) in 30 volumes. Al-
Masudi was one of the first to combine history and scientific geography in a large-scale work, Muruj adh-
dhahab wa ma'adin al-jawhar translated ( The Meadows of Gold and Mines of Gems), a world history.
84
Chapter Two
City of Lights
Faiz Ahmad Faiz
The greenery is drying in a pallid afternoon;
Parched walls are wet hued with a lonely poison.
Far to the heart’s horizon shrinks, rises, falls again
The fog of an undimmed grief, a heavy tide;
And yet behind this fog rises the City of Lights.
----O, City of Lights---
Who can tell how to attain your illumimated paths?
Here, in broken light, in nights of separation,
Listless you see sitting the soldiers of desire.
. This chapter highlights the amorphousness of Lahore resulting from the opposite,
dissimilar and contradictory ideas, concepts and worlds, the world of the colonizer and
the colonized. Their interaction had far reaching and deeply profound influence and
impact upon every aspect of the Lahori life. It gave birth to a new life style which
combined within it, both the eastern and the western ethos. In order to spotlight my idea
of amorphousness I have picked on one Indian novelist, Dina Nath and one British
novelist Rudyard Kipling. Of the two writers, Nath and Kipling, the latter is more focused
character Kim takes us to the pith of Lahore, the winding dark gullies and stingy smell of
the walled city, yet he takes us away from the marrow of the city on the Grand Trunk
Road to open up a an amorphous world of characters. Whereas, Nath confines the action
of his novel The Two Friends: A Descriptive Story of the Lahore Life to Lahore only. It
86
covers both, the colonial and the walled city of Lahore, juxtaposing the ancient with the
modern. Moreover, these novelists under discussion for analysis provide us with the
The main characters Nath’s novel shuttle between the colonial Lahore and the old
Lahore fascinated and awed by the former and dismayed by the latter part of the city. It is
interesting to note that Nath does not refer to this new development, the clash of interests
between the British and the Russians and the building up of tension between the two
powers. Instead, he remains focused on the local and indigenous changes which were
taking place in the domain of politics, culture and religious beliefs of the Lahoris and in
the process would award and add an amorphous feature to the city of Lahore. He had a
great fascination for the new city, colonial Lahore. And like a renaissance man he was
inexplicable enthusiasm. Kipling, on the other hand, makes the conflict between the
British and the Russians as the backdrop of his book Kim (1901).
Both, Nath and Kipling were contemporaries but it is interesting to note that both treat
Lahore differently in their novels under discussion in this chapter. In Nath Lahore is the
locale where political, social, cultural and religious differences and clashes amongst the
major communities, the Muslims, the Hindus and the Sikhs were beginning to manifest
themselves. As a result disintegrating forces found their way in the social and cultural
fabric of the Lahori society bringing about an amorphousness of relationship amongst the
various communities residing in Lahore. Kipling, on the other hand, has confined himself
to the Great Game1 being played between the British and the Russians. Furthermore, he
looks at Lahore from the point of view of an orientlist. However, a distinctive feature of
Kipling’s Kim that my research discoveres is that the novel portrays the Lahori characters
as amorphous human beings, such human beings who live, inhabit and move
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simultaneously in two diametrically opposite social set ups, the ancient and the modern,
the colonial and the colonized. In fact, Kipling himself may be called an amorphous
character as he was born in India, received his education in England and came back to
Bombay and Lahore to work as a journalist. He, therefore, imbibed and assimilated the
cultural opposites of both, the west and the east. Lahore as a city comes alive before us
when Kim, the main character of the book takes us beyond the walls of the city into its
narrow and dark muhalas, and localities, stingy and winding streets, penetrating deeper
and deeper into the marrow of the city. One can sense a different kind of amorphousness
colonizer and the colonized that was the result of colonial education which “form a class
who may be interpreters between us, with and the millions whom we govern; a class of
persons, Indians in blood and color, but English in taste, in opinions, in morals, and in
intellect.” (qtd.in Suleri 67). In this way Kipling and his Kim emerge as a new species of
amorphous Indians who came into being during this time period.
It was in 1899 that Nath wrote The Two Friends: A Descriptive Story of the Lahore
Life. Lahore is the locale of his book. The novel very graphically depicts Lahore with its
social, religious, cultural and intellectual life which had by that time come to full bloom.
This way Lahore had been amorphozised into a cosmopolitan city opening its gates to so
many diverse and different communities and peoples with multitude cultural, religious
and social patterns. With the influx of such a great variety of people the demography of
Lahore also changed. This change in the demography of the city contributes towards its
amorphousness.
After the annexation of the Punjab in 1849, the British had set up a new
the Punjab. Since there was dearth of discreet and competent officials to run the
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administration, they encouraged the people with administrative skill and knowledge to
come to Lahore from across the Punjab and northern India and even from Bengal. Punjabi
nobility, the Bengalis and the literati hailing from the United Provinces were the most
amongst these peoples had added an element of newness to the Lahori life. According to
historian Kenneth Jones, “of all the cities of the Punjab (recorded in the 1881 census),
Lahore had the highest percentage of strangers, of citizens born outside of the city and
with disparate cultural backdrop, Grover in his unpublished article “The City in Colonial
were Bengalis and literati from the United Provinces, people whose fathers
had followed the British Raj to Punjab to occupy key positions in the new
geographical limits of the province. Their presence lent the city an ealing
luster in the minds of many, one that lingers on nostalgically, for some, up
The social and cultural interaction amongst these communities added newness to the city
and consequently, the city assumed the true color of an amorphousness cosmopolitan city.
Nath’s novel primarily focuses on the two Lahori characters, Rama and Nath and it is
through them that we discover the true divisions of Lahori life of that time, with all its
miscellaneous and dirverse signs, symbols and sounds of the city. Their regular meetings
and long walks through the Lawrence Gardens, on the Mall Road to Gol Bagh, the Hide
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Park of those days provide us with the opportunity of knowing what Lahore was a century
ago. Possessed with keen observation, wit and penetrating eye, they pass apt remarks and
gossiping over all those topics which enjoyed public attention, now thoughtful, the next
moment hilarious, in short making merry in a tremendous method” ( 4). The Gol Bagh
which is now called the Nasir Bagh where a literary club called Chopal, a literary club,
has recently been established for men of letters and creative writers to give went to their
literary ideas and thoughts, has been a place for the students and the scholars to sit and
gossip over topics light and serious. This tradition dates back to the time when the British
had set up educational institutions in Lahore after the annexation of the Punjab in 1849.
Immediately after its annexation, there came a team of dedicated and devoted
Christian missionaries with a burning desire and simmering ambition to convert the
Indians to Christianity. They set to their task by establishing educational institutions and
churches in the nock and corner of the Punjab. Lahore being the provincial headquarter
became their centre of educational and religious activities. As the time rolled on the
missionary institutions began to churn out an exclusive class of students, endowed with
the rare qualities of perception and analytical reasoning, which could be seen gathered in
the gardens or roaming on the roads discussing a variety of topics ranging from politics to
religion, also having delight in gossip and foul jokes. Nath’s characters Rama and Nath
embody the culture of discussion and gossip. It was not only the Gol Bagh but also
various road side hotels which were fast becoming students’ rendezvous where students
of Lahore in groups big and small would “hover like fairies in celestial regions”
(Nath111). Small roadside hotels serving tea and snacks sprang up at the Mall Road near
Anarkali where students would cluster up in the evening for a session of “ cracking
immoral jokes, using the first rate slang, discussing all impious topics, ridiculing their
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betters, fighting hand to hand, and in fact what not” (Aziz 33). This was the beginning of
a vibrant culture of literary discussion and a wide range of social, political and religious
issues. The intellectuals and men of letters of Lahore made various tea houses and road
side hotels as their habitats where they spent their evenings over a hot cup of tea and
heated literary and cultural discussions would start. K.K.Aziz has highlighted the culture
habitués spent a lot of time on their cups and talked and gossiped with
their friends. In this way the coffee house emerged as an urban, public,
radical and egalitarian club where middle and upper middle classes
The emergence of coffee house culture and the thronging habitués was a distinctive
feature of Lahore which in fact had surpassed the other centers of culture and civilization
of the Sub-continent such as Delhi, Aligarh and Lucknow. In many ways Lahore in the
1920s was even ahead of Paris of the 1930s in the field of literary and cultural activity. If
Paris could boast of having Jean Paul Sartre, Simone Beauvoir, Charles Dullin, Andre
Breton and many other French and Continental intellectuals, Lahore could also claim to
have such literary giants as Allama Muhammad Iqbal, Faiz Ahmad Faiz, Noon Meem
Rashid, Hafeez Jullunderi Akhtar Shirani, M.D. Taseer, Sufi Tabassum and many others.
Most of the tea houses were situated at the Mall Road near Anarkali. But for the
westernized elite class there were cosmopolitan clubs and Gymkhana where the members
discussed, danced and drank. Mention may be made of some of the tea houses frequently
visited by the intellectuals of Lahore. The Arab Hotel, Nagina Bakery, Muhkam Din’s
teashop, India Teahouse and India Coffee House were some of the literary dens for men
of letters poets and painters. In addition to that there were some baithaks inside the walled
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city which were the gathering places of the musicians, singers, poets and writers of great
From the 1920s onwards, perhaps even earlier, Lahore was the most highly
cultured city of north India. From here appeared the largest number of
Urdu literary journals, newspapers and books and two of the best English
language dailies. The Mayo School of Arts were flourishing. The Young
Men Christian Association was active and its premises and halls were used
research. The annual plays staged at Government College and Dyal Singh
College were awaited by the city’s elite with high expectations. Eminent
gatherings. (5)
It was during those days that a figure of an impressive student, confident and proud
emerged. Charismatic and imperial, this figure commanded respect and reverence. People
would lend him their hears and would sit spell bound and enthralled by the authoritative,
eloquent and persuasive voice whose resonance would leave an indelible impact upon the
puts his opinion about it, no question of even the least moment where he
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neither fails or argue… nor again is his enthusiasm lost, for people seem to
hear him with relish. There is a curious magic about him. (Nath 58)
Referring to the emergence of such a talkative student figure during those days Glover
has quoted Iqbal Kishen’s article that appeared in “The Punjab Magazine” in 1890 which
describes a trip through the civil station’s Anarkali Bazaar, where he noticed several
clusters of students “at a little distance from each other” discussing “topics of vital
importance, such as the transmigration of soul, the existence of God, Christianity, the so-
called Aryanism, and a number of other similar questions” (qtd. in Glover 4-5). So with
the advent of modern education and the untiring efforts of the Christian missionaries
aiming at the spread of Christianity, there emerged a specific culture of discussion and
debate on religious issues among the literati of Lahore. At the same time the natives were
also stirred to launch counter movements of religious revival when they felt threatened by
religion against the impurities matched with the zest and zeal of the Christian
advantage of the poverty and rapidly deteriorating economic conditions of the natives, the
missionaries had doubled their endeavors to convert the poor natives luring them to new
religion by providing them with the necessities of life and promise for a better future and
an improved standard of life. Lahore, then, witnessed the emergence of a new culture, the
priests and the clergy of all the main religious communities, the Muslims, the Hindus and
the Christians throwing challenges to one another for an exchange of religious dialogue,
manazara, to establish the supremacy of their respective religions. Lahore in the first
decade of the 20th century, in fact, had become a battle ground and a theatre for acting out
the exchange of religious ideas amongst the various communities, each aiming at
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establishing the supremacy of their respective religion on the one hand, and on the other,
Replacing Delhi after the Mutiny of 1857 as the centre of literary and cultural
activities, Lahore had initiated a cultural and literary ‘renaissance’ inviting the literati of
other Indian cities to Lahore in great numbers who brought cultural, religious and literary
traditions along with them. Coming from other areas of the Punjab and North-West,
“when the American Presbyterian Mission established its new headquarters there,” (Jones
87) to Lahore the leaders and Gurus of socio-religious reform movements of Islam,
Sikhism and Hinduism took to their task of defending their respective religions against
Punjabi, Urdu, Persian, Hindi and Kashmiri languages. They had the printing press at
their disposal. So, they printed books of grammar and dictionaries in the languages of the
expressed in print and through open preaching in the streets. During the
thePunjab, next sought to govern him, and then to convert him. (87)
the various communities and peoples inhabiting the Punjab, adumbrating to go back to the
original and pure form of religion in order to stop the march of Christianity. These
movements focused on the reforms not only in the domain of religion but also in social
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and moral fields. Amongst the Sikhs the movement of Nirankaris in the 19th century was
a movement of purification and return to the Sikhism of Guru Nanuk. Baba Dayal (1783-
1855) who initiated this movement declared that Sikhism had become decadent and
impure filled with falsehood and superstitions. He, therefore, emphasized the need of
returning to its origin and further stressed “the worship of God as nirankar (formless).
Such an approach meant a rejection of idols, rituals associated with idolatry, and the
Brahman priests who conducted these rituals” (88). The founder of this movement also
chalked out a strict social code and moral doctrine for his followers. According to Jones
should not use astrology or horoscopes in setting the time for ceremonies;
the dowry should not be displayed at marriages; neither lighted lamps nor
blessed sweets, prasad, should not be placed in the rivers; and no one
drinking liquor, lying, cheating, using false weights – all were forbidden.
Each should follow a strict moral code and use only the proper life-cycle
The denunciation of the Brahams by the Nirankaris on the one hand, broke their hold
and domination over Sikhism and on the other, demarcated a line indicating Sikhism as a
distinct religion from Hinduism. Nirankaris were wise enough not to clash with the rulers,
the British. They rather flourished and thrived under them. Baba Ram Singh (1816-85) of
Sikhism called the Namdharis which differed from the Nirankaris movement on certain
religious points while sharing with it some of the social and moral doctrines. Baba Ram
Singh, himself a solider in the army of Ranjit Singh till the year 1845, shaped and
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modeled his movement on the teachings and precedents set by Guru Gobind Singh and
his Khalsa. In order to become a member of this community, the new entrant had to
observe some rituals, the wearing of “five symbols with exception of the kirpan (sword)”
(91). As the British had banned the carrying of kirpan, the Namdharis were expected to
carry a lathi. In order to distinguish themselves from the other Sikhs, “they wore white
The impact of such reform movements on the Lahori society was so deep and profound as
the writers like Dinna Nath were greatly influenced by them. Nath’s The Two Friends is
The Two Friends, undoubtedly, highlights the inclusive and thorough picture of
Lahore’s quasi-religious and social institutions of civil society in the late nineteenth and
early 20th century. It was the impact of colonial rule and the influence of western
education that there emerged a new educated middle class comprising of professionals,
lawyers, traders, merchants, teachers and doctors with new sensibility and the desire for
adjustment with the new colonial milieu. This new class found itself on the horns of a
dilemma. On the one hand, it was swept away and shaken by the colonial situation and by
a strong wind of modernism and on the other, it did not want to loose its hold on its
religious faith. Consequently, there emerged a strong and unassailable desire to reform
religion in accordance with the changing situation. These professionals “sought to reform
the inherited religious tradition in the light of the new notions of rationality, justice and
progress which they had imbibed from western education and which also accorded with
It is through Nath, one of the main characters of the book The Two Friends that the
novelist has very dexterously captured the new colonial cultural milieu. Nath in the novel
purgation of those elements of Hinduism which came into clash with progressive and
rational ideals upheld by the newly emergent class. With its emphasis on Indianness and
indigenousness and the purity of Vedic culture, establishing the superiority of Hindu
identity and Hinduism (Hinduism was considered superior to all other foreign faiths,
Christianity and Islam), “the revivalism of the Arya Smaj played a role not only in
demarcating the religious particularism of Hinduism but also heightened a sense of pride
among the Hindus” (Mir 6). The novelist Nath by giving a realistic description of some of
the social issues, the question of widow remarriage, which were also the concern of Arya
Samaj, has revealed the qasi-religious atmosphere rent with religious conflicts as the
Samajists were fast becoming violent and aggressive in their approach towards the
contemporary social, political and religious issues. They targeted the Muslims as their
venomous towards the Muslims who as their past rulers needed to be painted black and,
as modern rivals, deserved to be suppressed” (24). They were very active in politics as
well and began to influence The Indian National Congress on national issues of grave
significance through their leader, Lajpat Rai. “Through him the Samajists captured the
Punjab Congress, in fact, the whole of the nationalist movement… Extremism appealed
most to the emerging western-educated class which swelled the ranks of the Arya Samaj”
(24). It was their political extremism and sense of social and religious superiority that led
the Muslims to think in terms of demarcating a different political course for themselves,
“Anyhow, the constant hymns of hate against the Muslims completely vitiated the
intercommunity climate” (24). These cracks and complete collapse of mutual confidence
and the idea of tolerating each other reached its culminating point in 1947 in the division
of the Sub-continent into Bharat and Pakistan. Arya Samaj immediately attracted the
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educated class in Lahore, “In Lahore Dayananda quickly attracted a group of dedicated
disciples, many of whom were students and graduates of the Lahore colleges” (Jones 97).
After the annexation of the Punjab in 1849, Lahore was made the provincial
the newly annexed areas with an elaborate and efficent administrative system was the
need of the hour. Initially the spacious buildings, the mosques, the tombs and the havalis
of the ancient Lahore were utilized. But gradually, the new rulers laid the foundation of a
new Lahore, a colonial Lahore set up outside the walled city with new building structures,
an elaborate road network, educational institutions and they also built for themselves
what was called the Civil Station for residential purposes, away from the hum drum of the
city life. A detailed description of the colonial Lahore had already been given in the First
Chapter. As a result of the British rule the Lahori society began to manifest a new face, a
new social structure and social etiquettes. Spatially also the old and the colonial Lahore
presented two different realms. Nath’s The Two Friends is a vivid and realistic
description and portrayal of the colonial era which is an inseparable part of our history.
The novel describes the old city as enclosed by the high wall around it, narrow and
winding streets, in some of them the sun had never shone and the cold wind cut through
the bones. The walled city has also been described as the city of gutters ejecting out a
damp stink coming in greater gusts and with heaps of offal and waste material in its
streets. The old mohallahs and quarters of the old city are “poisonous as the deadliest herb
yet untested by medical criticism,”(Nath 58) and polluted as the dangerous effervescence
from a marshy ground” (58). The city does not present a pleasant look:
Why! With its dirty and dingy streets where sunlight is conspicuous by
remembrances of memory, with its ‘bazaars’ where none but men of stout
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physique and stouter heart can manage way and lastly enough not leastly
with the shrew typical ‘Lahori’, sly of look, cunning by temper and sloth
wretched streets, ruined houses, tottered walls and in fact what not. (112)
The description of the Civil Station in the novel presents a complete contrast with that
of the old city. This is the area inhabited by the British inclusively. A number of
government institutions, shops, clubs, bungalows and markets sprang up. The Mall Road,
connecting Mian Mir, the British cantonment, situated several miles to the east, to the
civil offices “lying just beyond the western boundary of the city” (Glover 6). “At one end
of the developed portion of the Mall, in the direction of Mian Mir, were the Botanical
gardens and Zoo. The Lawrence and Montgomery Halls fronted onto the Mall at the
northern edge of the Garden, forming an important nucleus of European social life” (6).
The area between the Garden at the one end on the Mall Road and the secretariat at its
other, housed the colonial offices and the educational and religious institutions.The Mall
Road, therefore, serves an important link between the institutions of political power, the
secretariat, and the educational institutions, producing a class of educated young men
whose loyalty with the British Raj was an indisputable fact. The novelist is so fascinated
and enthralled by the beauty of the road, “I dare not depict the multifarious charms of this
exquisite road----the ‘Upper Mall.’ Its beauty is indescribable … It is verily a road for the
European community. All sorts of White people can be had here” (Nath 115). The
exclusiveness of the road has been described very vividly. The natives are rarely seen
traveling on that road as it links the English military cantonment with the civil offices of
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the British ruling elite. But even in the colonial part of the city there are some places
where all and sundry, people hailing from a diverse social and religious background get
their chance to mingle together. One such place is the famous Anarkali bazaar:
It is a good ‘bazaar’ out and out. The shops are clean and respectable. In
the evening time when the student folks give up their studies for a little
Lahori yields to the temptation of an evening ramble. Side by side with the
fashion, may be seen the Herculean rustic who has come to see the
metropolis from the adjacent village. There again we see the N.W.P
whether the speaker was using Latin or his own vernacular. Here and there
wherewithal a strutting mode. Amongst this variety of people may also the
famous Lahori ‘goonda’ (lit. Scoundrel) with his pick-pocket looks and
In contrast with the Mall Road and the Civil Station, where it is the prerogative of the
white community to ramble and roam about the Anarkali bazaar presents somewhat a
different spectacle. In the bazaar one finds God’s plenty in terms of the diversity and
variety of people. Here the intermingling of the natives, the pathans, the rustics, who even
today come to see Lahore, its hue and color and light, and the typical Lahori vagabond
with the highland stout Scottish soldier gives us a picture of a motley group of characters
and of a culture, an amorphous culture, which was and still is the distinctive characteristic
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of Lahore. Even today people visit the Anarkali bazaar for various purposes. Some go for
real shopping, others just for window shopping and to cut remarks on women. Students
from University of the Punjab, National College of Arts and Govt. College University are
seen roaming through the bazaar with agility and the frankness of young souls. They are
also the custodians of one of the oldest Lahori culture and tradition of having a chit chat
sitting in small cafes and tea houses situated on the Mall Road and even on the footpaths:
Do you see those girls, walking there, in jeans speckled with paint? Yes
they are attractive. And how different they look from the women of that
family sitting at the table beside ours, in their traditional dress. The
National College of Arts is not far – it is, as a matter of fact, only around
the corner – and its students often come here for a cup of tea, just as we are
Nath makes another significant observation regarding the exclusiveness of the Civil
Station by describing the area where the white community, young and old, male and
female is seen in great numbers roaming about fearlessly. Nath, the writer observes that,
“old folks bent double on the account of the ravages of age,” (Nath 7) and “stout
gentlemen superfluously red but often very handsome … grown up misses barely on the
verge of womanhood but already looking wise and serious” (114). Montgomery Hall was
the rendezvous of the white community, “verily a talismanic lodge” where all around us
we see civilization and excellence” (115). In an unambiguous language Dina Nath is full
of praise for the white community whom he considers the embodiment of wisdom and
So we see the ancient and the colonial Lahore from the perspective of a native writer
who is fascinated by that part of Lahore which the British built. It was in 1901 that
Rudyard Kipling wrote Kim, the novel’s initial setting was in the colonial part of Lahore,
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the famous Mall Road and from that part of the city the central character, Kim, takes us to
the walled city whose narrow and winding streets have a great attraction for him. It is
through him that we come across the amorphous nature of the city of Lahore. The novel
also reveals the strategy of the British to hold the Russians at bay. For this purpose, the
British used Lahore as a centre of espionage to check the Russians’ march against the
British colonial interests in India. Unlike Nath, Kipling neither glorifies nor idealizes the
colonial part of the city of Lahore. He rather remains focused on the walled city of
Lahore. Kipling, in fact, was using the walled city for the stereotypical presentation of the
natives. He saw the walled Lahore as a typical oriental city and used it to put forward his
Kim holds a unique place in the colonial literature of the British Raj in the
Subcontinent. The novel was published in 1901, twelve years after its author had left
India. Kipling, the future “Poet of the Empire”, who’s name has become synonymous
with India, was born in 1865 at Calcutta and spent most of his time in Lahore. Nobody
could better understand India than Kipling who also worked as a journalist in the Civil
and Military Gazette1, a Lahore based newspaper. Sir David Masson, the then managing
proprietor of that journal, the Civil and Military Gazette, recalls the incident of appointing
Kipling on the staff of the journal by saying that “he gave the youthful Kipling his first
appointment, at the request of his father, Mr. Lockwood Kipling, then Principal of the
Lahore School of Art” as the boy was “disqualified for any of the public services by
reason of his defective eyesight” (Goulding 32). The book Kim is lure of the Empire and
the Orient seen through a westerner’s eyes. According to Said Kipling believed that “it
The book is about Kim, who “knew the wonderful walled city of Lahore from the Delhi
Gate to the outer Fort Ditch; was hand in glove with men who led lives stranger than
anything Haroun al Rashid dreamed of; and lived in a life wild as that of the Arabian
Nights,…” (Kipling 6-7). And a ‘Friend of the World’, who becomes a disciple of a
Tibetan lama, on a holy pilgrimage to see the Four Holy Places before he dies. He, then,
along with the lama embarks upon a holy journey to find a holy River. Their journey
starts from Lahore on a train and after facing numerous situations and encountering
motley of Indians along the Grand Trunk Road ends in the mountains.
It has been argued that some Mr. F. Beaty who retired from the police service in
Quetta (1922) was the original of Kim. But the unromantic and uneventful career of the
“Beauty of Baluchistan” does not support this suggestion or argument. Tracing the origin
There is, however, substantial reason to believe that when Kipling created
Kim, he took for this model a European boy, named B…., who was a
familiar yet unusual figure in the streets of the Anarkali bazaar . The
market crossing, where the Zamzammah then stood, was one of his
favorite haunts. Hatless and barefooted, with all the cunning of a typical
street Arab, this boy roamed about at will, and anything he did not know
about bazaar and serai life was not worth knowing. For some time, when
owned by an Indian who had married one of his sisters. This boy’s father
was a clerk in one of the local Government office’s, but was believed to
have been a soldier in early life. After his death, his widow and children
lived in the bazaar near Kapurthala House where young B…. reigned
The identity of Kim along with his original has baffled the readers and the critics alike.
Kim, in fact, contains within his character all those elements, contrary, contradictory,
… and Kim was white. Though he was burned black as any native; though
with the small boys of the bazaar; Kim was white-a poor white of the very
poorest. (Kipling 5)
This quality, feature and characteristic of his physical appearance, the appearance of a
native had underneath, hidden, invisible, a white man, a colonizer. The camouflage was
complete, disguise was skillfully performed and mask was put on successfully and
masterly. Like a true colonizer he had many tricks under his sleeve. He would put on any
this quality of his that the British used him as a spy in their Great Game against the
Russians: “The woman who looked after him insisted with tears that he should wear
European clothes-trousers, a shirt, and a battered hat. Kim found it easier to slip into
Hindu or Muhammadan garb when engaged on certain business” (7). Along with Kim,
Mahbub Ali also fulfills the features and characteristics of an amorphous character,
visibly a horse dealer but invisibly a spy. He is a character, a person and a personality, yet
Kipling initiates the action of the novel in that part of the historical city of Lahore
which the British had built after the annexation of the Punjab in the year of 1849. Kim,
the main character is sitting on the Zam-Zamma, a cannon placed on a platform on the
Mall road where the Lahore Museum, the Lahore School of Arts (now the National
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College of Arts) and University of the Punjab face each other. The Tolenton market and
the Town Hall are the other buildings of the colonial era reminding us of the British Raj,
situated a few yards away from the cannon. The Mall Road just in front of the National
College of Arts where the famous Kim’s Gun (Zam-Zamma) is placed takes a right turn
and along with the Gol Bagh now popularly called the Nasir Bagh, on the left side and the
Govt. College Lahore (now Govt. College University Lahore) on the right, leads towards
the tomb of Data Ganj Baghs and to the walled city. From the colonial Lahore the writer
takes us to the narrow and winding streets of the old pre-colonial walled city through his
the stealthy prowl through the dark gullies and lanes, the crawl up a water
pipe, the sights and sounds of the women’s world on the flat roofs and the
head-long flight from the housetop to housetop under cover of the hot
dark. Then there were holy men, ash-smeared faquirs by their brick shrines
under the trees at the riverside, with whom he was familiar—greeting them
as they returned from begging-tours and, when no one was by, eating from
The description, therefore, puts up the picture of a city whose streets are narrow, dark
and overcrowded, the buildings are constructed so close as they share each other’s roofs
blocking the sun light and creating an unhealthy atmosphere of dampness and foul smell.
There is no privacy and even the world of women is conveniently accessible and exposed
to gaze and openness. The city is largely inhabited by the beggars, the holy men who
roamed about the city begging the whole day. Nights are highly unsafe as ‘thieves are
abroad.’ Along with the beggars the animals tread the streets with the freedom and
boldness of a fearless colonizer stealing and robbing people of their belongings. “Thou
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hast as much grace as the holy bull of Shiv. He has taken the best of a basket of onion
already, this morn; and forsooth, I must fill thy bowl. He comes here again” (17).
Moreover, they are unashamed of their begging always pestering the people with their
clamor for alms and food. According to a native proverb, “those who beg in silence starve
in silence” (17). Kim looks at the walled city of Lahore as a city where the beggars
wander freely in the “cramped and crowded Lahore streets” (64). He also refers to the
various castes of faquir and their disciples wearing their peculiar outfits. Some of the
faquirs would roam in the streets at their fixed time both in the morning and in the
evening and they would go from one street to another knocking at the doors of the houses
asking for alms. Every faquir or beggar had his own unique way of begging, some would
sing a holy verse, or a ghazal of a classical Urdu poet, still others would sing some bujhan
blessing the people in anticipation of alms. Kim was well acquainted with all kinds of
faquirs and beggars, “He knew what the faquirs of the Taksali Gate were like when they
talked among themselves, and copied the very inflection of their lewd disciples” (52). He
also took delight in telling tales about them, “carried away by enthusiasm, he volunteered
to show Lurgan Sahib one evening how the disciples of a certain caste of faquir, old
In addition to the city of beggars as Kipling perceives it, Lahore was also a
commercial centre, a city of trade and commerce, a prosperous and thriving city. The
traders came to Lahore on business trips from as far of places as the Central Asian cities
and to accommodate those traders many serais had been constructed just outside the gates
of Lahore. Delhi gate was the busiest of all the thirteen gates of Lahore. The merchants
and traders used that gate to enter the walled city. Muhammad Sultan, the famous
contractor built a grand and specious serai outside the Delhi gate where thousands of
travelers would stay along with their camels and horses. In the north of the serai there
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sprang up a bazaar popularly called the Landa Bazaar with shops of concrete verandas in
front of them on either side of the bazaar. Adjacent to the bazaar, Lahore Railway Station
was built which further increased the pace of commercial activities and soon Lahore
became one of the famous commercial centres in the whole Sub-continent. Another serai
called the serai of Dewan Rattan Chand had been built outside the Shah Allam gate. A
distinctive feature of the serai was the construction of a huge water pool in the centre of
it. Traders and grain dealers used to sojourn here. Another philanthropist, and constructor,
Rai Mela Ram built a serai and a palatial bungalow outside the Bhatti gate. Kim mentions
Lahore as a busy manufacturing city with rest houses to accommodate the visitors:
It was his first experience of a large manufacturing city, and the crowded
tram-car with its continually squealing breaks frightened him. Half pushed,
half towed, he arrived at the high gate of the Kashmir Serai: that huge
open square over against the railway station, surrounded with arched
cloisters where the camels and horse caravans put up on their return from
Central Asia. Here were all manner of Northern folk, tending tethered
ponies and kneeling camels; loading and unloading bales and bundles;
piling grass before the shrieking, wild-eyed stallions; cuffing the surly
Kim, therefore, projects Lahore in the last decade of the 19th century and in the first
decade of the 20th as a city of contrasts, beggars, vagabonds, poor Lahoris, the new
emerging commercial class, the English men and the locals, all inhabiting Lahore
producing an amorphous culture of a unique kind. In the novel the walled city is a noisy
city, beggars, some of them are poor and needy and some are professionals, begging,
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clamoring, singing for alms and traders, shopkeepers and their customers are involved in
a noisy bargain. The modern Lahore, on the other hand, is calm and quiet, the roads are
spacious, properly aliened having footpaths for the pedestrians. The buildings on the Mall
Road are built in accordance with the modern trends in architecture and building
designing. This contrast and contradiction between the ancient and the modern Lahore
gives a great shock to the lama on his visit to Lahore. He is also fascinated by the
Kipling wrote Kim at a specific moment in his career. It was the time when the
relationship between the British and the Indian people had undergone a marked change.
The British had dominated India for three hundred years but now at that time their rule
was beginning to exhibit the increasing unrest which would culminate in decolonization
the colonizer and the colonized had set in. Referring to the events determining the nature
of relationship between the ruler and the ruled in the Sub-continent Edward Said in his
demarcation…We can say that to the British, who brutally and severely
put the Mutiny down, all their actions were retaliatory; the mutineers
murdered Europeans, they said and such actions proved, as if proof were
European Britain; after 1857 the East India Company was replaced by the
As a result of the Mutiny of 1857, there occurred a marked and discernable change in the
attitude of both the military and the civil British officials towards the Indians. Suspicion
and hatred replaced sympathy and understanding. The breach between the two
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communities had become unbridgeable. The emergence of the native rapist figure in the
fiction and other stories written after the Mutiny in 1857 is important to note. It indicates
the extent to which the relationship between the colonizer and the colonized had
deteriorated and that the administrative polices and the attitude of the British officials
towards the natives had stiffened to a large extent: “Jenny Sharp (1993) demonstrates that
the dark skinned rapist is not an essential feature at all but discursively produced within a
set of historically specific conditions and that such a figure had become a commonplace
during and after what the British called the Mutiny” (qtd. in Loomba 78). This image of
the native brought a sea change in the existing stereotype; from a mild native into a
savage rapist of white woman. A critical analysis of various reports, memoirs and
fictional narratives of the Mutiny year brings out the fact that the British administration
had been completely shaken and left “without a script on which they could rely” (qtd.in
Loomba 80). Even though there was no evidence of systematic violence of this sort, she
suggests that the “fear provoking stories have the same effect as an actual rape, which is
to say, they violently reproduce gender roles in the demonstration that women’s bodies
can be sexually appropriated” (qtd. in Loomba 80). This lead them to believe that they
should consolidate their authority on the one hand, and on the other, present themselves
through the circulation of the violated bodies of English women as a sign for the violation
In Kim, there is an ‘old withered man’ who rendered yeoman service in the Mutiny2
as “a native officer in a newly raised cavalry regiment and in return of his services
received a good holding in the village” (Kipling 54) as a reward, while recalling that
A madness ate into all the Army and they turned against their officers.
That was the first evil, but not passed remedy if they had then held their
hands. But they chose to kill the ‘Sahibs’ wives and children. Then came
the Sahibs from over the see and called them to most strict account…So
they turned against women and children? That was a bad deed, for which
So Kipling like a true westerner holds the natives responsible for the Mutiny by
calling it an act of madness, therefore, justifying the brutal punishment they deserved and
received. The War of Independence of 1857 which the British termed as Mutiny, in fact,
started over the issue of cartridges used by the Indian army. It was rumored that the skin
of cow (cow is a sacred animal for the Hindus) and that of pig (pig is haram for the
Muslim) had been used to manufacture the covering of the cartridges which had to be
removed by mouth before its use. The soldiers refused to use such cartridges and rose in
open rebellion at Meerath cantonment against the British commanding officers. Soon it
spilled over to other areas of the Sub-continent. In Delhi the Indians killed the British
officers and made their families hostage. In Delhi and in some other Indian cities the
wives and children of the British officers were killed. Consequently, the British fell upon
the Indians with a vengeance and indulged in carnage, killing them mercilessly.
Although, the Hindus along with the Muslims took part in the war, yet the wrath of the
British fell on the Muslims. Ahmad Ali has drawn our attention to the massacre of the
And she began to relate how ruthlessly Delhi had been looted by them at
the time of the ‘Mutiny’ and the Mussalmans had been turned out of the
city, their houses demolished and destroyed and their property looted and
usurped by the ‘Prize Agency’; and the city was dyed red with the blood of
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princes and nobles, poor and rich alike who had happened to be
Mussalmans… (143)
Kim brings into focus a very pertinent issue of Kipling’s portrayal of the Indians. Have
they been portrayed as inferior, or as somehow equal but different? For this purpose he
has used Lahore as a locale. Edward Said is of the view that “Obviously, an Indian reader
will give an answer that focuses on some factors more than others (for example, Kipling’s
stereotypical views-some would call them racialist- on the Oriental character), Whereas
English and American readers will stress his affection for Indian life on the Grand Trunk
Road” (163-4). Jan Mohamed in his recent article on colonial fiction, “The Economy of
Manichean Allegory: the Function of Racial Difference in Colonist Literature” has called
Kim a novel aiming at exploring the possibilities of bridging the chasm which sets the
colonizer and the colonized apart. He goes further than this, “We are thus introduced to a
positive, detailed and non-stereotypic portrait of the colonized that is unique in colonist
literature… What may initially seem like a rapt aesthetic appreciation of Indian culture
difference” (qtd. in Loomba 481). Undoubtedly, the Indians occupy much space in Kim as
compared to other novels written on the Sub-continent under the British Raj and we do
find some derogatory remarks about the white men and that the Indians deserve a fair
treatment. But all this should not lead us to believe that the book reflects the Indian in a
sympathetic light and that the rulers were eager to treat the natives with equality. On the
very first page of the novel, Kim is shown sitting, “in defiance of municipal orders,
astride the gun zam-Zammah on her brick platform opposite the old Ajaib Gher-the
Wonder House as the natives called the Lahore Museum” (Kipling 5). Being white,
though with Irish background, Kim has the privilege and the prerogative to deify the
order or any law to occupy the ‘fire breathing dragon’, the Zam-Zammah as who holds
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the cannon holds the Punjab. He, therefore, is justified in frustrating the efforts of his
Muslim and Hindu playmates to climb up to equal right and claim to the cannon, a
symbol of power and domination, by kicking them off it. Since the British were holding
the Punjab, so Kim had every right to sit alone on the Zam- Zammah, and there is little
possibility of sharing it with the natives. They are always kept at arms length. Kim,
pleadings to sit on the cannon, Kim’s stern reply smacks of his sense of superiority, “Thy
father was a pastry cook. Thy mother stole the ghi… All Mussalmans fell off Zam-
Zammah long ago” (8). Although, little Chota Lal whose “father was worth perhaps half
a million sterling is also kept at bay,” The Hindus fell off Zam-Zammah too. The
Mussalmans pushed them off” (8). The novel, therefore, from the very outset, establishes
the legitimate right of the white to rule over the natives. The division between the white
and the non-white in the novel is absolute and is of racial in nature: “The division
between white and non-white, in India and elsewhere, was absolute, and is illuded to
throughout Kim as well as the rest of Kipling’s works; a Sahib is a Sahib and no amount
of friendship or comaraderie can change the rudiments of racial difference” (Said 162 ).
“Once a Sahib is always a Sahib…” (Kipling 91). This pattern of power and rule
continued till the time the British had to leave the Sub-continent in 1947. A young
Englishman coming to India to be a part of the much coveted Indian civil service would
invariably consider himself belonging to a specific and inclusive group whose aim and
objective was to have dominance and control over each and every Indian, irrespective of
It is said that Kipling has displayed great regard for the Indian religions in Kim. Noel
Annan claims that “Kipling…implied that the Indians were as superior to the British in
matters of religion as the British were to them in material power” (qtd. in Willaims 483).
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It is true that the priests in the book have not been portrayed in the positive light as
selfless and dedicated missionaries. Reverend Bennett is even insulted by Kim in the
book and in comparison with the Lama, Reverend Bennett and Father Victor show dearth
of honor and probity. Despite the fact that the Lama is the most sympathetic of all the
holy men depicted in the book, yet “none of the characters seems to have the slightest
qualms about abusing his spiritual quest by turning it into the cover for a counter
espionage mission, and, moreover keeping him in the dark about the fact” (Williams 484).
The book Kim unambiguously establishes the domination and superiority of the white
man over the natives. Even Lama the holy man has to fall back upon a white man, the
curator in the Lahore Museum and later on Kim in his search for truth: “A white- bearded
Englishman was looking at the Lama” (Kipling 11) who then lead him to the main hall of
the museum. The wonder struck lama saw with an air of unbelief the whole panorama of
the world of Buddhism. The curator began with the images of the Christian religion,
Here was the devout Asita, the pendant of Simeon in the Christian story,
holding the Holy Child on his knee in the legend of the cousin Devadatta.
Here was the wicked woman who accused the master of impurity, all
confounded; here was the teaching in the Deer-park; the miracle that
prince; the miraculous birth; the death at Kusinagara, where the weak
meditation under the Bodhi tree; and the adoration of the alms bowl was
everywhere. (12)
The museum in Kim, therefore, emerges as a miniature Lahore so far as the religious
amorphousness of the city is concerned. The symbols and signs of various religions which
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the Lahoris possessed are found in the museum. It is also interesting to note how deeply
the lama depends upon the museum curator, a white man, for his search of truth is
symbolized by his giving of spectacles to the holy man. This act of kindness elevates
lama’s spiritual prestige and honor, on the one hand and on the other, legitimizes British
control, domination and benevolence. The white man becomes lama’s guide even in his
own religion. The lama also acknowledges his indebtedness to Kim for the realization of
his spiritual journey and the parable in Chapter 9 of the book which the lama tells also
reveals the fact beyond any doubt that the lama regards Kim as his ‘savior’: “Child I have
lived on thy strength as an old tree lives on the lime of an old wall” (271).
Kim also spotlights Kipling’s views on Orientalism. Edward Said has defined
Orientalism as “ the corporate institution for dealing with the Orient – dealing with it by
making statements about it, authorizing views of it, describing it, by teaching it, settling
it, ruling over it; in short, Orientalism is a Western style for domination, restructuring and
having authority over the orient” (qtd. in Williams 482). So it is concerned with various
strategies of projecting, controlling and dominating the Orient. One of the strategies is to
paint the “Orient and its inhabitants as static, unchanging, incapable of change” (482).
In Kim there are numerous references to the fact that the Indians have been represented
stereotypically. They do not have a proper sense of time: “All hours of the twenty-four
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are alike to Orientals, and there passenger traffic is regulated accordingly” (Kipling 30).
“Even an Oriental, with an Oriental’s views of the value of time, could see that the sooner
it was in the proper hands the better” (26); of motion: “Swiftly – as Orientals understand
speed” (143); of order: “the happy Asiatic disorder” (142); of sound: “he had all the
Oriental’s indifference to mere noise” (141). They are unable to recall or remember the
important dates and years, hardly following the calendar; so the date of birth of the
children or their marriages are invariably associated with some major event or upheaval: ‘
“I do not know; but upon the hour that I cried first fell the great earthquake in Srinagar
which is in Kashmir.”… The earthquake had been felt in India and for long stood a
leading date in the Punjab” (43). They are irrational, superstitious and “gullible in matters
of religion and its cognate, magic” (Williams 484). The Jat in Kim whose child is cured
“A most holy man at the temple of the Tirthankers.” “They are all most
holy and most—greedy,” said the Jat with bitterness. “I walked the pillars
and trodden the temples till my feet are flayed, and the child is no whit
better. And the mother being sick too…Hush, then, little one… We
changed his name when the fever came. We put him into girls clothes.
There was nothing we did not do, except—I said to his mother when she
bundled me off to Benares—she should have come with me—I said Sakhi
His visits to various tombs of holy saints, the charms and the magic of the Indian holy
men could not cure the child of his fever. Only a few tablets of Quinine which Kim gives
to the boy to take subsides his fever. Indian women had surpassed their men in having
faith in the miraculous effect of charms: “She liked charms with plenty of ink that one
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could wash off in water, swallow, and be done with” (227). The men had their own
remedies or cure of various maladies: “He believed that the dung of a black horse, mixed
with sulphur, and carried in a snake-skin, was a sound remedy for cholera…” (226).
In her article on “Kim and Orientalism” Williams has defined orientalism “as adjunct
knowledge about the ‘native’: historical, linguistic, religious, moral, and political” (486).
This knowledge is reflected in the fixed notions and concepts which the West had formed
over the last so many centuries making the orientalists and their society highly
predictable. It further tells us that they do not have the capacity and intelligence to change
and develop positively. Consequently, this kind of knowledge over the years has formed
some unassailable stereotypes regarding the colonized which also crept into colonial
literature. India in Kim has been painted as eternally untruthful. Interestingly Kipling tells
us that Kim has also been corrupted and infected by this Indian disease: “Kim could lie
like an Oriental” (Kipling 27) and that “Kim found it easier to slip into Hindu or
Mahammedan garb when engaged on certain business” (7). He has also picked up the
only the natives can, in spite of the abominable clinging trousers” (103). In contrast with
the natives who have the permanent habit of telling lies, “the English do eternally tell the
truth” (141). The image of “Gorah-log (white-folk) or Sahib is the dominant image of the
book: “Kim looked him over out of the corners of his eyes. He was a Sahib in that he
wore Sahib’s clothes; the accent of his Urdu, the intonation of his English, showed that he
was anything but a sahib” (130). “Kim was white – a poor white of the very poorest” (5)
of an Irish background, whose mother “had been a nursemaid in a colonel’s family and
Along with the working class The Irish were most frequently conflated
with the Blacks by the imperialists as, for example, Lord Salisbury, three
times Prime Minister between 1886 and 1902, remarked that the Irish were
as fitted for self-government as the Hottentots. Both the Irish and the
working class were held to be responsible for the worst excesses of racism,
but they also showed the greatest solidarity with other oppressed groups –
Kim, therefore, needs to be educated and reformed so that he must wash himself of his
Indianess in order to become a true Sahib: “They’ll make you a man o’ you, O’Hara, at
St. Xavier’s—a white man an’, I hope, a good man” (Kipling119). A white man,
civilized, and honest and a true leader of men: “Sahibs never grow old. They dance and
they play like children when they are grandfathers. A strong-backed breeds “piped the
voice inside the palanquin” (218). Kim is sent to the best of all the institutions in India to
learn “all the wisdom of the sahibs” (218) and a great care is taken regarding his
education:
The regiment would pay for you all the time you are at the Military
that he or you ‘ud understand what that means); but the best schooling a
boy can get in India is, of course, at St. Xavier’s in Partibus at Lucknow.
(96)
St. Xavier as a renowned institution for its rarefied academic atmosphere and discipline
“looks down on boys who “go native altogether.” One must never forget that one is a
Sahib, and that some day, when examinations are passed, one will command natives”
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(126). His academic record and report at the St. Xavier School, sent to Colonel Creighton
and Father Victor, his patrons who kept a vigilant eye on him, reveals his activities,
performance, interests, punishment and reward at the school. He took keen interest in
mathematical studies and in map-making and also won a prize in these subjects. He also
excelled himself in sports and was a member of the school eleven against the Allyghur
Mohammedan College when he was fourteen years of age. In order to discipline him in
the ways of a Sahib, he was punished “several times for “conversing with improper
persons,” and for “absenting himself for a day in the company of a street beggar” (165).
His academic record is silent after revealing the fact that he passed the elementary
examination in elementary surveying “with great credit” and then was “removed on
appointment” from the institution. In contrast to the image of the Gorah Sahib, Kim
projects the image of the blacks: “What was you bukkin, to that nigger about?” (104) said
The word nigger in fact, is a word of humiliation and a mark of disgrace for the
Blacks of African origin and is used to dehumanize them. Father Victor who had been
entrusted with the task of supervising Kim’s education ‘styled all natives as “niggers”’
(108). Fed up with the rigorous routine of instructions in the school, Kim decided to run
away. His abortive effort at escape is immediately reported to Father Victor: Kim “hailed
a scarlet-bearded nigger on horseback ; that the nigger had then and there laid into him
with a peculiarly adhesive quirt, picked up young O’Hara, and borne him off a full
gallop’ (108). This takes us to a very important colonial concept of ‘Negritude’. Loomba
writes, “For Cesaire was also one of the founders of the Negritude movement, which
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emphasized the cultural antagonism between Europe and its ‘others.’ If, in Kipling’s’
words, East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet’, then negritude
angrily endorsed this conceptual concept” (23). Kim clearly indicates that the gape
between the white and the black, the ruler and the ruled and the colonizer and the
(Kipling109).
It is clear from the text that Kim’s services were hired by the Secret Service for an
espionage mission against the Russians who were hovering over Afghanistan to
undermine the British interests in the Sub-continent. The British espionage system to
gather any information underpinning the British interests in India was rather an elaborate
one: “But recently, five confederated kings, who had no business to confederate, had been
informed by a kindly Northern Power that there was a leakage of news from their
territories into British India” (25). The locals or the natives belonging to various races had
information under the guidance and command of Colonel Creighton “of the Ethnological
Survey” (111), “who is a Colonel Sahib without a regiment” (118). He is mysterious and
enigmatic enough to puzzle the people who come into contact with him: “He is always
buying horses which he cannot ride and asking riddles about the works of God— such as
plants and stones and the customs of people” (118). The Survey as a spy network is a part
of overall British strategy of dominating the natives, and the information gathered about
India would place the British in an advantageous position and further consolidate their
position both against the internal threat and the external menace. The whole novel smacks
of spying, “… Mahbub Ali probably spied for the Colonel as much as Kim had spied for
did not suspect that Mahbub Ali, known as one of the best horse-dealers in
far and far into the Back of Beyond, was registered in one of the locked
yearly C.25 would send in a little story, badly told but most interesting,
true. (25)
They had also devised a code language to do the job secretly and successfully: “Send off
those telegrams at once, ---the new code, not the old,--mime and Wharton’s” (41). So it
was through a very effective and efficient system of espionage that the British could hold
It is interesting to note that in Kim Kipling has given us a detailed and graphic picture
of the Indians belonging to various races, castes and communities. He has also described
their peculiar and specific features, habits and customs and dialects. The panoramic
description of India life along with the Grand Trunk Road is really amazing: “All castes
and kinds of men move here. Look Brahmins and chumars, bankers and tinkers, barbers
and bunnyas, pilgrims and potters—all the world going and coming… And truly the
Grand Trunk Road is a wonderful spectacle… such a river of life as nowhere else exists
in the world” (60). Here is a portrayal of the Indians belonging to the known and the
oldest Indian professions, a picture gallery. These professions in fact determine their caste
and role in the society. How exact is the stratification and gradation of the inhabitants, the
hierarchy, the Brahmins, highly respectable religious community, with all the
prerogatives, are at the top and the Chumars, the untouchables at the bottom having no
rights as human beings, living in abject misery and poverty. There are Sikhs, Hindu Jats,
Gorkhas and Pathans, the martial races who were the bulwark in the Indian army which
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served the British Raj to its glory and splendour in various wars within India and outside
it. The British raised the Indian military regiments on racial basis, the Sikh regiment, the
Gorkha regiment, the Dogra regiment and the Muhammandan regiment, each regiment
determined to excel and surpass the other in the display of valour and bravery in the
battlefield. It was considered a matter of honor to serve in the Indian army even in the
subaltern ranks: “My sister’s brother’s son is naik corporal) in that regiment “…There are
also some Dogra companies there “… “My brother is in a Jat regiment” (32-3).
All these characters, the English men, the Irish men, the Hindus, the Sikhs, and the
Muslims with varied social, cultural, religious and linguistic back ground, intermingling,
interacting and commingling together to create what my research discovers and I call
amorphousness. Even the British army of those days of the British Raj is the true
castes, cultures and creeds speaking different dialects, yet woven into a single unit or
group of British army involved in the Great Game being played by the British with skill,
That the Great Game is the dominant theme of Kim is further confirmed by the fact
that the world of the novel is dominantly inhabited by men. It is a masculine world, a
world of intrigues and the world of war:’ “I saw the Jang-i-Lat Sahib come to a bib
dinner. I saw him in Creighton Sahib’s office. I saw the two read the white stallion’s
pedigree. I heard the very orders given for the opening of a great war” (135). Since it is a
world of war women hardly matter; they are rather stumbling block in the way of winning
the Great Game. In comparison with men, Kim, the Lama, Mahbub Ali, the Pathan horse
dealer, Lurgan Sahib, the great Babu and the old Indian soldier, and above all Colonel
Creighton the women are fewer and are debased or unattractive. There are prostitutes,
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elderly widows like the widow of Shamlegh and lusty women who do not have any role
to play in the Great Game, a game only men are qualified to play. The novel, in fact,
portrays a masculine world, a world of trade and travel, adventure and intrigue.
Undoubtedly, the backdrop of Kim is war: “For there is always war along the
border---as I know” (49). The British were determined to fight, no matter how strong the
enemy was to safeguard their vested interests and the preparations had been made: “… I
saw the Jang-i-Lat Sahib come to a big dinner… I heard the very orders given for the
opening of a great war” (135). The British after winning each battle consolidated their
domination over the conquered people not only through a well-planned military strategy
but also through cunning diplomacy and political expediency, but above all through a
well-thought and equally successfully carried out ruthless repression of culture of the
dominated people and also made them believe that the British rule in fact, was a great
blessing for the Indians: “… Gramsci argued that the ruling classes achieve domination
not by force and fraud or coercion and intimidation alone, but also by creating subjects
who ‘willingly’ submit to being ruled” (qtd. in Loomba 29). So they followed a well-
education system well suited to their needs and requirements, administrative and judicial
system, canal system land reforms, road and railway network and job opportunities. Each
system facilitated and strengthened their rule. The railway and road network made it
possible to deploy the troops on the Northern boarder to check the Russian plan to
infiltrate the Sub-continent, on the one hand, and on the other, to bring under control the
unruly Pathans:
The Lama, not so well used to trains as he had pretended, started as the
3.25 A.M. south bound roared in. The sleepers sprung to life, and the
station filled with clamor and shouting, cries of water and sweetmeat
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This is a stereotypical depiction of a railway station scene of an oriental city with all
the hustle and bustle, the chaos and confusion, the noise and clarion of women preparing
themselves to leave the train but in the process not forgetting to collect and gather their
children and husbands. In addition to that the talk of the soldiers boasting and bragging
complete solidarity and comradeship with their companies, and the enthusiasm to serve
the Union Jack even at the risk of their precious lives, unambiguously and unassailably
indicates how successfully the British had motivated the locals to be ruled by a foreign
power and to strengthen its military hold over the conquered land. The train had separate
compartments in accordance with the social status the travelers had, the emphasis was on
the stratification of the Indian society and the hierarchy the British had deliberately
created. The whites had a separate compartment to travel, and then there were first class,
second class and third class compartments. The goods trains were used to carry the
military equipment and soldiers to the war fronts and their number of carriages
The British after physical occupation of the land even did not feel satisfied by having
an iron grip over the dominated people and filling their minds with ideas of servitude,
they rather embarked upon a systematic strategy of disfiguring, distorting and destroying
the past of the natives. Pre-colonial history came to be equated with the Dark Ages, the
period of barbarity and savagery. It was also emphasized that the colonizer had come as a
savior to redeem the people from backwardness and that it was only through the colonizer
that the contact with the light of civilization was possible, to the West civilization has
Brussel in 1876 on the issue of Africa and the Congo made a very interesting statement.
He urged “to open to civilization the only part of our globe where Christianity has not
penetrated and to pierce the darkness which envelops the entire population” (Hennessy
87). His statement, in fact, epitomizes the western mind with reference to the non-western
and non- Christian world. It was also inculcated in the mind of colonized that if the
colonizer retreats the natives would again be driven back to the forces of degeneration
and bestiality. The British soon managed to disrupt in a spectacular fashion the cultural
life of the dominated people in the Punjab. Its history, traditions and social customs were
tagged as signs and symbols of backwardness and were painted as stumbling block in the
way of progress. The people were pushed toward the periphery and were classed as the
‘other.’ The old patterns of social relationships were transformed and replaced with the
relationship. In order to achieve their objectives of colonizing the culture of the Punjab
they created a wedge amongst the natives by promoting and patronizing a part of the
population. Consequently, a reasonable chunk of the people particularly the urban class
assimilated the colonizer’s mentality and began to consider itself culturally superior to its
own people. The social prestige of this elite group was further strengthened and
consolidated by the increase in their social and economic privileges. Following this
strategy the British succeeded in splitting the people apart, consequently, weakened their
culture.
In the rural areas of the Punjab, in the name of land reforms, the British granted land
to those who supported them in their war effort against the Sikhs, Afghanistan and the
local elements. Sardar Mangle Sing Ram Gharya, Sardar Hayyat Khan, the Tawana
family, the Dyya family of Multan, Shah Mahmud khan and his son Khan Karam Khan,
Sarfraz Ahmad Khan who betrayed Ahmad Khan Kharral to the English captain, Sayyad
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Hussein Shah of Battala and his grand son Muhauddin, Mukkdum Shah Muhammad of
Multan are such examples which can be quoted in this regard. Judicial reforms were also
introduced to further strengthen feudalism in the Punjab. In 1906 The Legislative Council
of the Punjab passed a bill granting the feudal lords and sardars the right to nominate their
heir in their life time so that after their death the land should not be divided among their
heirs. Because the division of land would weaken their power and prestige and ultimately
the whole feudal system would degenerate. They were also encouraged to send their
was one such institution. They were made honorary magistrates, members of legislative
The British were aware of the fact that the domination over the people should not
necessarily be gained by physical control only, but they must control the mind as well.
This objective can very conveniently be achieved through the colonial education system.
Kelley and Albach state that “colonial schools…sought to extend foreign domination and
economic exploitation of the colony” They further state that “education in…colonies
seems directed at absorption into the metropolis and not separate and dependent
development of the colonized in their own society and culture.” Such education is aimed
at distancing the colonized people from their own culture and learning structures towards
the colonial ideas of learning. It further expedited the assimilation process. For this
purpose English Literature had been introduced as a subject to be taught at the Indian
Excursion… by strict attention to plays called Lear and Julius Caesar, both much in
demand by examiners. In these branches--- for which by the way, there were no cramp
books---” (Kipling163-4).
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The guide line had already been provided by Macaulay: “We must at present do our
best to form a class who may be interpreters between us and the millions whom we
govern; a class of persons, Indian in blood and color, but English in taste in opinions, in
morals and in intellect” (qtd. in Suleri 122). Thus an amorphous Indian was created, a
It was, therefore, not a matter of co-incidence that the official machinery in Lahore
and the missionary establishment shared their thinking on the very important issue of
education. The missionaries were already in the business of translating the New
Testament into regional languages to facilitate the process of conversion. Soon there
amorphousness of the native mind. Missionary Society was another prominent institution
where the native Christians were trained for ordination. Thus these missionary institutions
soon brought about a sea change in the culture of Lahore and the city was amorphousized
Missionary or colonial education has always been used for social control and to
hammer in the minds of the colonized attitude of subservience towards the colonizer. The
through assimilation that the colonized are compelled to follow the cultural patterns and
effective tool for political control. The colonizer soon realizes that he can control and
dominate the natives effectively not through physical control but through mental control.
In order to accomplish his goal, the colonizer establishes a new educational set up and
school system. Commenting on this new school system, Kelly and Altbach say that
colony” (2). The further say that “education in… colonies seems directed at absorption
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into the metropole and not separate and independent development of the colonized in
their own society and culture” (4). In this way the colonized are driven away from their
own local and indigenous learning patterns and pulled towards the structures of the
colonizers. Ngugi, the famous Kenyan writer while criticizing such education asserts that
it:
themselves. (3)
The colonizer further blurs and distorts their history and the colonized are made to
believe that their history is nothing but a bundle of lies and a few savage rituals. On being
colonized, the natives are separated and distanced from their own history. In Lahore, the
aim of the colonial education was, therefore, to repress the local culture and to promote
the cultural hegemony of the colonizer and to produce subjects willing to be ruled by the
British, the kind of species I have already called amorphous Lahoris in particular and
Indians in general.
From 1920 to the partition of India in 1947, there were some significant political
developments and social upheavals which rocked India. Lahore, being a major city, was
not only deeply affected by these developments but also contributed its share in terms of
launching movements of various kinds which brought social, cultural and political
changes of far reaching consequences. Lahore remained violent during these momentous
years. The amorphousness which took place in Lahore during those turbulent and
tumultuous years was of a religious, political and social nature. But it is interesting to
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note that Lahore in those bloody years was not only politically and religiously agitated
but also literary active and creative. If there were political and religious movements, there
were also literary and cultural movements of profound significance. Literary and cultural
societies were formed to initiate debate and discussion on new trends in Literarute.
Literary creativity was a new dimension adding and contributing towards the
The city was also a locale of confrontation and clash amongst the communities
inhabiting it. The clash and confrontation was pulling the communities apart. Another
significant development was the intermingling of religion with politics which produced a
peculiar kind of milieu where religion was given a free hand to shape and form a kind of
culture, political and social which had made all the major communities conscious of their
separate individuality and identity. This consciousness and awareness once aroused took a
phenomenal and colossal shape and assumed a Frankenstein dimension. Consequently, all
appeared to end in smoke. Lahore hitherto had been successful to maintain its image of
tolerance and co-existence. The city never before ever differentiated its inhabitants in
was their common culture and shared traditions and way of life which was the binding
force amongst the various communities living in Lahore. The saints and Sufis of Lahore
did yeoman service to form and preserve a culture based on love for all. It was a culture
of tolerance and co-existence for all. Their tombs and shrines even today are visited by all
and sundry of various religious communities. And even in their life time people of
different religious and social sects paid homage to them. This kind of liberal and tolerant
culture began to recede when the British began to introduce western concepts, cultural,
political, economic and social. In Lahore the educational institutions established by the
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British had already created a very strong sense of competition amongst the various
communities. There was a cut throat competition amongst the educated class of all the
major communities to secure government jobs. They knew that this would give them
social prestige, power and clout to look after the interests of their respective social and
political groups. The introduction of political and constitutional reforms and the concept
of representative government further divided the Indians and made them conscious of
their separate political identity. To counter the religious efforts of the Christian
missionaries, the natives had initiated some religious and social programmes of
reformation aiming at the purification of their respective religions and cultures. Lahore
being a major city was in the forefront of such social and religious movements. At the out
set the Anjumins, Dals and Sabahs set up in Lahore in the 1920s and 30s claimed to cater
to the cultural, social and educational needs of the Lahori people, but gradually they
turned political voicing the political issues of their respective communities. The three
major communities, the Muslims, the Hindus and the Sikhs were in the grip of fear of
being swept away by the religiously colored culture of their opponents. Consequently,
they began to focus upon collecting arms and receiving physical semi military training.
This led them to clash, both of political and cultural nature. As the wheel of time rolled
on and new political developments at the national level failed to satisfy the Indians, the
desperation and disappointment reflected itself in the form of agitation and violence.
Some sporadic incidents of killing began to take place in which precious lives were lost.
The situation was becoming alarmingly violent and volatile which culminated in the
massacre of the millions of people when the province of Punjab was divided on the eve of
The First World War (1914 - 18) was a turning point in the history of the Sub-
continent. The Indians were eagerly awaiting their reward for the services they had
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rendered to the glorious victory of the British over their enemies. But instead of their
reward what they received was the notorious Rowtet Act of 1919 and the ruthless
massacre of the innocent Indians who had gathered at the chalianwala Bagh at Amritsar to
register their resentment against it. Lahore had already become very active in the field of
politics and resistance against the British Raj even before 1919:
Taking a leaf from the book of politics of Bengal, some young Lahoris laid
true that it was Lahore, after the city of Calcutta, which staged a large
British Raj. The rebels and the revolutionaries received impetus and
In the first two decades of the 20th century a large number of famous political leaders
were arrested on different political charges. In fact, Lahore had become a hunting place
for the political activists. Although, the Rashmi Roumal movement was not born in
Lahore, yet the students from Lahore did great services for its success. Eight thousands
were arrested in Lahore and six went to the gallows. Lahore, therefore, had already made
its name in arranging political demonstrations and raising slogans for liberty and the
students of this historic city had already set the examples of rendering great sacrifices for
their motherland. After 1919 various social, educational and cultural organizations gave
birth to political movements of great magnitude. Those who replaced the moderate Indian
leaders to lead the momentous political movements were determined to fight to the last
drop of their blood. They were energetic and highly motivated and Lahore in so many
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ways had become the cradle and fountainhead of such democratic and political
movements having far reaching impact on the people of the Sub-continent. Nevile states:
After the Jallianwala Bagh tragedy and the Rowlatt Act Satyagraha, the
freedom struggle made a great impact upon Lahore. Lala Lajpat Rai of
Lahore, the great orator of his time, became a national leader. In Bhagat
Singh, Rajguru and Sukhdev, Lahore gave the nation three of the greatest
On 23rd March 1931 Bhagat Singh along with his two companions, Rajguru and Sukhdev
were hanged in the Lahore Central Jail in the evening in contravention of the code of jail.
This incident galvanized the youth not only in Lahore but also in the whole of India.
Motivated by the examples of sacrifice of these revolutionaries, infused and charged with
new spirit and enthusiasm the young men and the students of various institutions of
Lahore put more fuel of their blood into their struggle against the British.
highlighted by the fact that all the major political organizations, associations and political
parties held their annual meetings and sessions from 1919 to 1940 in this city. This
further confirms the undeniable fact that Lahore was politically very active in fighting
against the imperialist’s tyranny and contributing a lion’s share towards political struggle
for independence: “It was in Lahore that the Indian national Congress held in December
1929 its historic where full independence was declared as its goal. It was here on the
banks of the Ravi that the youthful Congress President, Jawaharlal Nehru, proclaimed
26th January as Independence Day” (17). And it was in Lahore that the Muslim League
tore the copies of the Nehru Report of 1929 into bits and pieces and threw them into the
Ravi registering their dissatisfaction and dismay very strongly over the question of the
Muslims which the Congress had in a cold and indifferent way neglected and overlooked.
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Muslim League held its first session in Lahore in the fall of----- which was presided over
by the Quaid e Azam and it is very interesting to note that the Quaid e Azam was again
the president of the Muslim League’s annual session in Lahore in 1940 in which a
resolution for a separate Muslim homeland was passed unanimously with unprecedented
Lahore witnessed the birth of some of the major political and religious parties which
not only influenced politics at the national level but also at the Punjab level. It was in
1929 at Lahore that the foundation of the Majlis e Ahrar Islam was laid which originated
the Puritans: The Politics of Majlis-i-Ahrar” states that “All the individuals who
constituted Ahrar were exponents of the Khilafat Movement in the Punjab during 1920s.
Founding fathers of the Ahrar epitomized the roaring voice of protest and agitation
against the British and pro-British forces.”(P 1) Majlis-i-Ahrar which represented the
sentiments and feelings of the lower middle class, and the downtrodden soon came into
clash with the British and their cronies and associates in the Punjab because they were the
embodiment and exponent of revolutionary spirit and were adamant to throw away the
yoke of imperialism. The imperialist forces, therefore, dealt with them severly crushing
them with all the might at their disposal. The Ahrars were greatly moved by the miserable
plight of the Kashmiri Muslims at the hands of the Doggars, the rulers of Kashmir. They
rendered great sacrifices in men and money for the fight for the just and legitimate cause
of the Kashmirs. Khaksar Tahreek founded at Lahore in 1932, was another party which
was anti British in its stance. Discipline, organization and allegiance to the amir were the
cardinal principles of this organization which apparently did not have any political
ideology but believed in the social welfare of the Muslims and had an elaborate social
program for their uplifting. Physical training on the military pattern was compulsory for
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its members who wore military uniform and carried a balcha as a weapon. Khaksar
Tahreek soon became very popular amongst the deprived and the downtrodden Muslims
as it stood for social justice, freedom from deprivation and tyranny. Its clash with the
British was, therefore, inevitable. The bloody clash between the Khaksars and the police
near Hera Mandi in the walled city on 19th of March 1940 in which more than thirty
Khaksars were mercilessly shot down is one of the darkest chapters in the history of the
Side by side with the revolutionary Lahore of the 1920s and 30s there was another
facet of Lahore, the Lahore politically patronized by the British. In the Sub-continent the
successfully and there was no dearth of such royal cronies in Lahore. Given the peculiar
situation of the Punjab and its strategic location, the British managed to create a class of
loyal landlords, Sardars and a good chunk of urban educated class equipped with western
education, ready to serve the British cause at all costs. The Punjab was not only the
granary of India but also its ‘sword arm.’ It, therefore, received special attention. The
British devised and contrived various strategies to combine the rural element with that of
the urban to strengthen their position in the province. Talbot has made a very significant
admission to all but a few of province’s rural elite. Its ethos and syllabus
was similar to that of the English public schools, and it provided its pupils
with sense of pride and emotional attachment to the British Empire. (57)
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The efforts of the British to combine the rural loyalists with the urban ones culminated in
the foundation of the Punjab Unionist party in Lahore in the fall of 1923. Founded and
led by “ Mian fazl-i-Husain , a Lahore based lawyer who had risen to prominence by way
the Punjab Unionist Party successfully promoted the interest of the British by countering
the influence of the revolutionary movements and political parties in the Punjab. The
Punjab Unionist party won landslide victory in the Punjab in the elections held in 1937. It
was openly clamored that its triumph in the elections was the result of the official support.
Its “victory was greeted with satisfaction by the British Officials” (114). The Quid-e-
Azam also alleged that “… The officials of the Government (are) working for them in the
Lahore during those turbulent years of enormous political upheavals was also a
locale of clash and violent conflicts amongst the main communities inhabiting the city.
There were numerous reasons and factors for such clashes. But the factors which
contributed the most were of political and religious nature. The election politics,
communalism along with a strong desire to safeguard their respective religious faith
against the avalanche of Christianity and the increasing threat of being submerged by the
other religious communities in Lahore led the people to form military wings of their
respective political associations. Even the social groups, set up in Lahore, aiming at the
social restoration, amelioration and the uplifting of the downtrodden people could not
keep themselves away from the infectious and sickening atmosphere of intolerance,
Mention may be made of such factions and groups as RSS, Mahabir Dal, Hindu
Sewak Sabha, Arya Pratinidhi, Akal Fauj, Qaumi Khidmatgar, the Azad Hind Volunteer
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Corp, the Hindustan Scouts Association, Muslim League national Guards, Akali Dal.
The RSS was by far the best organized. There was hectic activity between
Volunteers in Lahore were told that if Troubles broke out, they should
Various Muslim organizations, social groups, political and religious parties working in
Lahore unfortunately had their distinct and separate political and social ideologies. There
was a marked difference of opinion not only on the national issues concerning the future
of the Muslims in the Sub-continent but also on the local politics in the Punjab.
Consequently, they seldom agreed on the major issues and their clash did more harm than
good to their community they claimed to serve. The Aharars, the Khaksars, the Unionists
and the Muslim Leaguers, all, were at loggers head over the Muslim problem in India. In
Lahore the clash amongst the Muslim political parties and groups reached its climax in
the elections held in the year 1937. Each contesting party put forward its own political
programme. Since all the major contestants had their main offices in Lahore the city
therefore, witnessed a series of violent clashes in which many lost their lives. The Punjab
Unionist Party won landslide victory in the elections and formed its ministry in the
Punjab by defeating its Muslim and non Muslim opponents, the Muslim League, the
Undisturbed and unmoved by the political upheavals and violence in the 1930s, the
literati of Lahore motivated and inspired by the age long traditions of literary discussions
and debates decided to form a literary forum for literary deliberations. Amongst the
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pioneers the names of Sher Muhammad Akhtar and Naseer Ahmad Jami stand out.
It was the year of 1930 and I lived near Fruit Market Lahore. One day I
stumbled across Naseer Ahmad Jami in the bazaar who put forward the
it. He lived at Laghsmi Mansion (Macload Road) during those days and
the first meeting of the Halqa Arbab-e- Zoq was held at his residence. The
Amongst those who attended its first meeting mention may be made of two employees of
the Cooperate Department. They were Abdul Ghani and Saeed sahib. Nasim Hajjazi, the
famous Urdu novelist, read his first short story. This was the beginning of Halqa Arbab-e-
Zoq in Lahore which over the years has become one of the famous literary forums in
Lahore. Almost all the famous writers, poets and men of letters before and after the
partition of the Sub-continent had been associated with this renowned literary society.
Recently Dr. Younis Javad has penned down a monumental history of Halqa Arbab-
e- Zoq entitled as Halqa Arbab-e-Zoq: Tanzeem, Tahreek, Nazria. In this book Dr.
Younis Javad has traced the initiation of the halqa, its development and progress. He has
also mentioned a galaxy of literary stars and stalwarts who glittered on the literary
horizon of Lahore doing yeoman services to the success of the Halqa despite all the heavy
odds. The Halqa Arbab-e-Zoq was not the only literary group active in the field of
literature; the progressive writers who associated themselves with what was then known
as the Progressive Movement of Literature were equally vehement and vigorous in the
propagation of their ideas regarding the role of writer and the function of literature.
Having faith in the idea that art should be for life sake, they embarked upon a program of
exposing the social evils and assigned a significant role of depicting life with all its
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ugliness and grotesque existence. In its essence the movement was a strong revolt against
the old traditions of art and literature which the exponents of the movement considered
dead and obsolete. It had been inspired by a revolutionary spirit to break new grounds in
art and literature. Almost all the literary stalwarts of Urdu Literature of the 30s welcomed
the movement. They spent their literary energies to make this movement a great success.
Of the men of letters who associated themselves with it, the names of Prem Chand, Jhosh,
Hasrat Mohani, Dr. Abdul Haq, Dr. Abid Hussain, Niaz Fathaypuri. Faraq and Sghar
Although, both the progressive writers and the traditionalists, this name was given to
the writers of Halqa Arbab-e- Zoq by the progressive writers who vehemently opposed
them, were poles apart in terms of literary concepts and traditions, yet they contributed
towards the development of a very rich literary culture of Lahore amidst political chaos
and clash. Living up to its age old literary history and heritage Lahore had excelled and
surpassed other centers of culture, art and literature in the whole of India. Comparing
cultural and intellectual interests. Lahore had been a metropolis since 999
A.D., and a seat of learning and imagination for centuries. No other city in
India could rival it in the variety of its cultural activities, the number of its
ease with which its social circles moved amongst themselves and civilized
the newcomers, the elegance of its historical buildings, the richness of its
libraries, the number and quality of its newspapers and journals in several
cleanliness and order of its civil station. So, if Lahore in the 1930s was
The Second World War saw the British impoverished and languid in terms of political
will and determination to hold India as their colony. The Indians on the other hand, were
resolute to take advantage of Britain’s losses in the war. The Congress on the support and
strength of Mahatma Gandhi had launched Quit India Movement. The Muslim League
under the dynamic leadership of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah responded equally
forcefully and demanded the division of India before the decision of the British to roll
their carpet back to London. The situation was deteriorating rapidly and every effort of
the rulers to hold India in their grip seemed a remote possibility. From the failure of Crips
Mission4 in 1942 to the unsuccessful Cabnit Mission5 in1946 the Indian arena of politics
is a sorry tale of one disappointment on the heels of another. The difference of opinion on
political and constitutional issues amongst the three major communities, the Hindus, the
Sikhs and the Muslims was widening day by day. The possibility of reconciliation
amongst theas communities seemed highly impossible. Fear and mistrust replaced
confidence and honest intentions. India was fast heading towards inevitable historical
disaster and irretrievable and irreparable tragic loss. The highly inflammable political and
social scenario of the 1940s leading to the partition of India and its effect on the major
communities inhabiting Lahore forms the focal point of Babsi Sidwah’s novel Ice-Candy
Man. The year of 1947 is a significant landmark in the history Lahore. The province of
Punjab was partitioned into east and west Punjab.West Punjab along with Lahore was
awarded to Pakistan. Lahore, therefore, had become a border city, exposed and vulnerable
from central economic hubs into border cities” (67). In 1965 war and again in1971 war,
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Lahore bore the main thrust of Indian military might and remained heroically
impregnable.
My research has taken us to the threshold of transition in the position and character of
Lahore from a colonial to a postcolonial city. In the previous chapter we have seen
Lahore assuming an amorphous character under the British Raj. The British ideas,
judicial systems and their life style had integrated Lahori life with all its variety and
disparity into an amorphous whole. Lahore was a city of disparities, differences, contrasts
and contradictions of all sorts, yet all these elements were combined into what I describe
It was in the 1940s that the things began to take a different turn and the forces of
integration were on the decline. With the weakening of the British hold over the situation,
the partition was round the corner which ultimately came in the fall of 1947, the forces of
disintegration were encouraged to sit in the driving seat. Lahore was fast moving towards
another phase in its history. In the next chapter I would like to pick on Lahore in order to
prove that Lahore remained amorphous in the postcolonial time after 1947. My focus and
emphasis, of course, would fall on Pakistani writers who wrote in English on or about
Lahore.
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END NOTES
CHAPTER TWO
1
The term is applied for the strategic rivalry and conflict between the British Empire and the Russian
Empire for supremacy in Central Asia. The period from 1885 to 1888 was the culminating point of this
conflict
2
Founded in 1872, it was a daily English Newspaper in British India. It was published from Simla and
of the East India Company’s army revolted against their British officers over the issue of cartridges and
constitution crisis of India. The Mission consisted of three members. The plan which was announced on 16th
CHAPTER THREE
The pattern of things amorphousized under the British since the annexation of the
Punjab in 1849 began to disintegrate under the pressure and weight of political, social,
cultural and religious forces unleashed to form a new shape and structure. The cycle of
integration of the similar and the dissimilar under the British domination was increasingly
receding in the face of the avalanche of violent and aggressive cycle of disintegration as
the British were neither feared nor had the desire to continue their rule over India. They
had been exhausted and haggard by the new situation which had emerged after the end of
World War II. The individual features and characteristics of all the major communities in
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India in terms of culture, religion, society and politics became stronger as the foreign rule
weakened. The façade of integration crumbled down and the constituent elements,
individual characteristics and formative forces were fast reverting to their originality. A
new pattern of amorphousness was about to be shaped by the political, social, religious
and cultural forces, forces which were beyond the control of all the leaders of the
communities whose interests were at stake on the eve of partition of the Punjab. And in
this chapter I have selected Bapsi Sidhwa’s works Ice-Candy-Man and The Bride to focus
Fawzia Afzal Khan is of the view that, “Bapsi Sidhwa’s The Bride and Ice-Candy
Man both portray history through the lens of female characters, and in so doing pose a
challenge to the ideologies of Patriarchy and War” (272). At times it becomes difficult to
separate history from fiction particularly when history is already fictionalized. Women
writers seldom write history; they rather create or recreate history through fiction as
creativity comes natural to them. Both the novels not only portray the history of
sufferings and misery of the Indians on the eve of partitioning Punjab but also offer an
insight regarding the growing amorphousness in Lahore. In The Bride much of the action
takes place in Lahore and in the Ice-Candy Man Lahore is the locale. My analysis of
these works would spotlight the amorphousness and not the history of Lahore or the
partition. The novels under discussion in this chapter, in fact, emphasize the political,
social and religious forces, factors and facts which create a new form of amorphousness
manifesting itself when the forces and elements of disintegration succeed in widening the
chasm in social fabric and structure of Lahori society. The calm and quiet of Lahore
always had something creeping underneath its history, something boiling which erupts
and spills over like lava of a volcano, destroying everything which comes its way.
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Lahore as a locale, tangible and above all historical. The book describes Lahore as it was
perceived by Lenny, polio stricken nine years old girl, just before the partition of the
Punjab and the gory transformation it had under gone when the partition came in the fall
of 1947. The narrator at the very out set of the book gives her readers a description of a
cluster of roads and a space which forms her world and limits her mobility, yet the very
mention of the roads indicates movement and her encounter with the other characters
representing their own world. The narrator is led to their world and experience by her
ayah carrying her in the pram, a journey of learning from a limited space , her home
inhabited by her parents, aunts, cousins and servants, to a bigger world of politics,
betrayal, carnage, parting of ways and disintegration of a social structure. This is the
place where today’s friends turn out to be tomorrow’s foes, where trust in human values
receives a shattering blow and human relationship is nothing but an absurdity, a world
where reason as a tool of understanding life suddenly looks irrelevant and insanity begins
to reign freely.
locale; they are rooted in it. The change in the characters corresponds with the change in
the locale as the situation develops from bad to worse on the eve of partition. They are
affected by the political rhetoric and are divided on communal and religious lines. The
peace and calm of the locale is disrupted and the mutual cohesiveness of human
(Sidhwah 60) began to break into a noisy quarrel and brawl. The British were alleged to
bring every kind of evil and disease into India. “… I learnt the other day – there was no
Sidhwa begins her novel with the description of the colonial part of Lahore, a part of
the Civil Station: “My world is compressed. Waris Road, lined with rain gutters, lies
between Queen’s Road and Jail Road: both wide, clean orderly streets at the affluent
fringes of Lahore” (1). And from that clean and orderly part of the city she moves “into
dense bazaars of Mozang Chungi,” (1). Mozang was one of those villages or suburbs of
the walled city, without any facilities available to the people living in the Civil Station
area which the British had planned according to the principles of a modern city. Like
other abadis, it was dusty, disorderly, unclean and the abode of every kind of disease.
The readers are also taken inside the walled city to the famous Hera Mandi where narrow,
dark and stingy streets present a striking contrast to the Civil Station built by the British.
Lahore was known as the city of ‘hundred gardens’ before the arrival of the British.
The writer describes how the city is transformed from a splendid garden to a filthy place
of garbage and refuse, how has it lost its flowers and fragrance. The writer describes a
At the crack of dawn, Lahore, the city known as the garden of the
and hovels the populace squats along alleyways and unpaved street edges
facing crumbling walls-and thin dark stains trickle between their feet
Although the British had introduced a better sanitary system and the system of drainage
of waste and refuse, yet only the ruling class had the privilege to avail itself of such
modern facilities. This description also indicates the dividing line the colonizer had drawn
to separate the natives and confining them to their areas and space, a city within a city.
The natives were the ‘other’, inferior, backward and uncivilized. The usual practice,
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therefore, amongst the common people was to go into the open to fulfill the demand of
Cycle bell ringing, Imam Din and I perambulate through the profusion of
Punjabi soil – and the smooth, plump spheres of young women who hide
their faces in their veils and bare their bottoms. The early risers squat
ablutions, and only the children face the street unabashed, turning their
Amongst the forces, factors and ideas which contributed to make Lahore amorphous,
religious ethos played a vital role. And the role of the Muslim saints who preached Islam
Data Sahib, who accompanied Muhmud of Ghazna to India in the fall of 997, was a
shining star amongst the galaxy of earlier saints who came to the Sub-Continent and
chose Lahore as a platform to preach Islam to the Hindus. His character and untiring
efforts soon bore fruit and the non-Muslims in large numbers embraced new religion,
Islam. So Lahore owes its Islamic color to that great saint. His tomb is situated out side
the Bhati Gate on the road which leads to the river Ravi and visited by thousands of his
followers daily to quench their spiritual thirst. A few kilometers away from the shrine of
Data Sahib and facing the Lahore Fort, is a grand edifice, the famous Badshahi Mosque
constructed by the last mighty Mughal Emperor Aurangzab Alamgir in 1626. The mosque
represents in its simple but grand structural design, the use of red stone and the bulb like
white marble domes, the austerity of its builder and the vision of the Mughal ruler. Along
with the shrine the mosque establishes the domination of Islamic culture on the one hand,
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and on the other makes the people conscious of their roots in Islam and their religious
heritage. It was in front of the mosque in Minto Park on 23rd March 1947 that the Muslim
League passed a resolution demanding for a homeland for the Muslims as they were a
separate nation by virtue of their religion. No other city could have been more suitable for
such a demand than Lahore as it had always been associated with the Islamic heritage. It
has the largest number of mosques, madrasas and the tombs of saints who devoted their
lives to the preaching of Islam. Moreover, the city has also witnessed the Muslim rule for
almost eight hundred years from the appointment of Ayyas by Muhmud of Ghazna after
he had annexed the area, as the first Muslim governor of the Punjab in the fall of 1022
A.D. to 1799 when it was ultimately captured by Ranjit Singh and was made his capital.
The Badshahi Mosque, in fact, is the major attraction of the city of Lahore when the city
is approached from crossing the bridge of river Ravi. The river which during the Mughal
era used to flow just by the side of the mosque and the fort, Aurangzeb had built an
embankment to save these structures from the hazards of its flood, changed its course
gradually away from the city to its suburbs. The embankment and the adjacent areas are
now occupied by the Pathans and the gypsies. They live in shabbily constructed shelters
without any modern facilities of drinking water and drainage system. This area is also a
safe haven for the criminals, thugs and drug addicts. This is another facet and another
dimension of Lahore.
These people come to Lahore to earn their bread and butter leaving their families
behind in the mountains. In Lahore they manage to find some menial work, they are
employed as guards, drivers, and mostly, since they are hardy, laborers in the construction
of buildings. Some of them are seen on the streets sharpening knives and other cutlery
items. They return to their families who keenly await them, after they have sufficiently
earned to meet their necessities of life. Even today, since Lahore has become a
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cosmopolitan city with comparatively more job opportunities for education and health
facilities, people from its suburbs and nearby villages throng the place. There are two
categories of workers who come to Lahore, the one which go back to their homes in the
suburbs after earning their daily wages and the other which stay in the city for a couple of
months as they have come from far of places. Lahore accommodates very generously
such people, the temporary residents, in millions can be confirmed and seen on the eve of
national holidays when they return to their homes and the city gives a deserted look. The
local people call them the migratory birds. One such character in Ice-Candy-Man is
Sharbat Khan:
A particularly pale bottom arrests Imam Din’s attention. The skin is pink,
still fresh and tingling from cold mountain winds. ‘So we have a new
Pathan in town!’ he muses aloud. At that moment the mountain man turns
his head. He does not like the expression on our faces. Full of fury he
snarls and spits at us.’ Welcome to Lahore, brother,’ Imam Din calls.
Months later I recognize the face when I see Sharbat Khan, still touchy and
At the Jail Road, adjacent to the Salvation Army dwells Lenny’s “electric aunt and
her adenoidal son” (1). A few yards away to her aunt’s house lives her godmother along
with her husband and slavesister. “This is my heaven. My refuge from the perplexing
unrealities of my home on Waris Road” (1). A couple of furlongs away, the Jail Road
disappears into the busy bazaars of Mozang Chungi and at the further end of the Jail Road
a “canal cuts the road at the periphery of my world” (2). Since she is handicapped, a
polio-stricken child, her mobility is confined to her small world she has described at the
very outset of the book. And her ayah is an integral part of that world, “Ayah is
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chocolate-brown and short. Everything about her is eighteen years old and round and
plump. Even her face. Full brown cheeks, pouting mouth and smooth forehead curve to
form a circle with her head. Her hair is pulled back in a tight knot” (3). She is her true
companion, her chaperon, her consolation in pain and her protector in the world of men.
Lahore, in fact, is also the locale of memories of characters, memories both painful and
happy. The writer very vividly recalls some of her memories and experiences and also
records her reactions to such events which filled her with mixed feelings of pleasant
surprise, shock and pleasure, therefore, equating Lahore with memories of characters.
Despite the fact that her world is limited to traveling on a couple of roads and visiting her
aunt and godmother, yet, it is a world of dreams whose disturbance she minds:
gnome wagging a leathery finger in my ayah’s face. But for keen reflexes
that enable her to pull the carriage up short there might have been an
head into ayah’s alarmed face, he tut-tut: ‘Let her walk. Shame, shame!
Lahore in the 1940s was very much a colonial city where the colonizer was not only still
at the helm of affairs calling shots but also dominating the “other”. The “other” still needs
and requires his superior knowledge and authority to keep the things in order. Lenny’s
physical deformity, her weakness allows the Englishman to be imposing and imperious:
“Now you listen to me…’he lectures Ayah, and prancing before the carriage which has
again started to roll says, ‘I want you to tell her mother…’” (2). After his lecture is over
impressions on Lenny’s mind. Col. Bharucha, a doctor at the Mayo Hospital who treated
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her to cure her deformity is another strong impression on the innocent mind of Lenny:
swiftly along the corridor” (4). Although he was renowned for his competency and
commitment to his profession, yet he imposed a special kind of imperious aura upon his
patients. He possessed queer idiosyncrasies, and would keep in his pockets a mallet, a
hammer and a chisel. Lenny did not like her frequent visits to the hospital which invoked
painful memories of being his patient. She did not like the smell of things in the hospital:
closer to my face and mouth. I scream and kick out the muzzle moves
away. Again it attacks and again I twist and wrench, turning my face from
side to side. My hands are pinned down I can’t move my legs. I realize
they are strapped. Hands hold my head. ‘No! No! Help me. Mummy!
Mummy, help me!’ I shout, panicked. She too is aligned with them. ‘I’m
The city of Lahore also serves as an educating ground for Lenny. It is through her
contact with a cluster of her ayah’s admirers that Lenny learns quite a few things about
the people. Her sojourn on the roads to the queen Victoria’s statue placed in a small
garden in front of the assembly hall on the Mall Road and to her godmother’s place on the
The covetous glances Ayah draws educate me. Up and down, they look at
her. Sub-handed twisted beggars and dusty old beggars on crutches drop
their poses and stare at her with hard, alert eyes. Holy men, masked in
piety, shove aside their pretences to ogle her with lust. Hawkers, cart-
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drivers, cooks, coolies and cyclists turn their heads as she passes, pushing
my pram with the unconcern of the Hindu goddess she worships. (3)
She “learns also to detect the subtle exchange of signals and some of the complex rites by
which Ayah’s admires co-exist” (19). She “learns of human needs, frailties, cruelties, and
joys. I also learn from her the tyranny magnets exercise over metals” (20). This learning
is the result of her visits to fairs, cheap restaurants and slaughter houses. These places are
frequented by such people as belonging to the lower strata of Lahori society, the clerks,
the coolies, the workers etc. And the fairs are the dens of beggars, thugs, the drug addicts,
etc. Amongst her teachers, her cousin was the one who had revealed to her those things
You want to see my marbles?’ he asks, and holds out the prettily colored
has just returned from Quetta where he had a hernia operation. ‘Let me
show you my scar,’ he offers, unbuttoning his fly and exposing me to the
has clever fingers. ‘You can touch it,’ he offers. His expression is
disarming, gallant. I touch the fine scar and gingerly holds the genital he
So Lenny becomes aware of the trickery and skill of men and she also learns to
exploit this to her own innocent advantage. She becomes vigilant, “ I keep an eye on Ice-
candy-man’s toes” (18) and knows how and when to have her own axe to grind: “Once in
a while I pre-empt the big toe’s romantic impulse and, catching it mid-crawl or mid-
strike, twist it. It is a measure to keep the candy bribes coming” (19). Her knowing and
wooden stool close to the white-washed wall. ‘See this?’ he asks. ‘Put your
finger there and see what happens.’ He jumps down and almost lifts me to
the stool. He is a couple of years older than me. I raised my hand; index
will never need to know about gullibility and shock. Though my faculties
of reason, deduction and logic advance with the years, my gullibility and
reaction to shock remain the same as on the day I tumbled screaming, hair
The city of Lahore is famous for its peculiar cultural activities, sports, eating habits and
social gatherings. It has been able to preserve its special Punjabi color, signs, symbols and
sounds. “Spring flowers, birds and butterflies scent and color the air. It is the end of
March, and already it is hot in the sun” (24).The Laboris have a special cultural pattern,
social behavior and etiquettes. They have their own way of spending their pastime. In the
evenings in summer they would like to sit on the raised platforms outside their houses for
a gossip. They can also be seen sitting in the parks in the afternoon for a chit chat whose
topic may range from sports to politics, there they play cards or any other game of their
interest; they may also be seen and heard to tell each other tales. Bapsi Sidhwa has very
vividly captured this aspect of the city life in Ice-Candy-Man. This novel gives us a
beautiful and convincing picture of a Lahori family with all its colures and hues, idiom
and traditions. Although they are Parsees, yet they are very much steeped in the Punjabi
culture. It was a tradition amongst the middle class families during those days to hire the
services of an ayah to take care of the small children. And it was also a common sight to
see the children being driven in the prams either to a garden or to their relatives. This
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would relieve the mothers to perform their role more effectively as wives focusing on the
needs of their husbands when back from their work in the afternoon.
Since Ice-Candy-Man is focused upon a middle class Parsee family in Lahore, their
home is a typical Punjabi home situated in Lahore at the Waris Road having the services
of a gardener, a cook, an ayah and other servants housed in the servant quarters who have
their own activities and little harmless games to play and have fun: “A shout, a couple of
curses, a laugh, break away from the hum of voices coming from the kitchen. A then a
receding patter of bare feet…they are after Hari’s dhoti…Yousuf the odd-job man, Greek
profiled, curly-haired. Towers mischievously over Hari. Everybody towers over the
gardener-even the sweeper Moti” (44). In order to witness this funny sight and to enjoy
the show the other characters circle around the servants engaged in the melee. But
certainly there are rules to observe: “but we play to rules. Hari plays the jester-and he and
I and they know he will not be hurt or denuded. His dhoti might come apart partially-
perhaps expose a flash of black buttocks to spice the sport-but this happens only rarely”
(45). Their ethos and idiom, both are typically Punjabi. The parents’ little conversations
in their spare time are interesting and reflect in a light tone, their mutual relationship
Father stirs in the bed next to ours. ‘Jana?’ Mother says softly, propping
herself upon an elbow. … she calls him Jan: life. In the faint glow of the
night-bulb I see him entirely buried beneath his quilt like in a grave.
Mother hates it when he covers his face as if is distancing himself from her
even in his sleep. She knows he is awake. ‘Jana’ she says again, groping
for his head. ‘Don’t cover your face like that…You’ll suffocate.’ So says
father drowsily… ‘You‘ll be a merry widow. You’ll blow every piece I’ve
saved.’(10)
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The mother does not like this kind of a statement even uttered as a joke in a casual
manner. She is a typical housewife and a mother, very much loving and caring and whose
“Don’t say that Jana. Even as a joke,’ Mother says her voice plaintive,
grateful, and husky. She rolls over and molding herself to his back makes
small burrowing, yearning movements. Father turns and lifting the quilt
buries his head in the breast she has inherited from a succession of
Lenny’s father has some particular habits and schedule of work and rest. After having his
lunch he would like to have twenty minute nap, “Not nineteen, not twenty-one, precisely
twenty” (67). He would cover his eyes with a handkerchief and lie down on the bed with
his socks and boots on which the mother would remove and massage his toes, “and with
cooing noises caresses his feet” (67). Some time she would tease him to rob him of his
Oye, uloo!’ Father says, rushing after her. It’s not my money, you crazy!
I’ll bring you your house-keeping money from the office. I’ll take only
what I have to,’ Mother shouts, locking herself into the bathroom. ‘I
So Lahore, from a place where all the major communities celebrated different religious
and social festivals with enthusiasm, harmony and tolerance had been transformed to a
space in the 1940s where these communities had began to doubt and suspect the
intentions of others and where a minority community like the Parsees feels so threatened
and unsecured in the rapidly changing situation as the partition of the Punjab was round
154
the corner. As the fate of Lahore was still undecided, hung in the balance, both the
Muslims and the Hindus in cahoots with the Sikhs were laying claims to it as a part of
their respective countries. The situation for the Parsees was really precarious; they had
not only contributed to the progress and prosperity of the city but also had imbibed its
culture. They were doctors, lawyers, engineers, bankers but above all they were
merchants and traders contributing a lions share for the boosting up the economy of the
city. The situation demands sagacity and political expediency. Any decision taken in
haste might put them in deep soup. In their gatherings and meetings they ponder upon to
neighbors will think we are betraying them and siding with the English…
‘There may be not one but two-or even three-new nations! And the Parsees
might find themselves championing the wrong side if they don’t look
Lahore has also been seen as a place of immigrants. Different communities have
been coming to Lahore in different times of history from the arrival of the Aryans to the
British. The city has absorbed them and as a result of their social interaction and
integration a heterogeneous culture had come into existence. This cultural harmony is
reflected in the traditions, festivals, social patterns, and even in the architecture of the city
of Lahore. With the partition fast approaching cracks began to appear and the
communities inhabiting the city began to think in terms of their religious and communal
identity and survival. The Parsees who had come to the Sub-continent during the Mughal
rule soon acclimatized themselves with the new climate and situation: “‘when we were
kicked out of Persia by the Arabs thirteen hundred years ago, what we did? Did we shout
and argue? No! roars the colonel, and hastily provides his own answer before anyone can
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interrupt. ‘We got into boats and sailed to India!’” (37). And got themselves settled in
Bombay, Calcutta, Karachi, Lahore etc. In the wake of new situation once again they
reflect upon various options. Some of the Parsees suggest that they should migrate to
Bombay where there is a strong Parsee community. This would give them a sense of
security and belongingness. Colonel Bharucha opposes this suggestion by referring to the
fact that they have always prospered under the Muslim rule: ‘we prospered under the
Muslim Moguls didn’t we?’ scolds Col. Bharucha. ‘Emperor Akbar invited Zarathushti
Lahore in the 1940s began to present the picture of a city which was politically
agitated and religiously and ethnically divided. It was the beginning of the parting of
ways. The tense political atmosphere had deeply affected the people creating an
unbridgeable chasm amongst them. The politics had crept into the drawing rooms of the
people and was a common topic of their discussion and debate. Gandhi had launched Quit
India Movement asking the British to leave India to the Indians. India was already
passing through a political chaos, the political situation was deteriorating rapidly and the
civil war seemed imminent. The departure of the British would mean that the Muslims
would be at the mercy of the Hindus who were in majority and were sure to rule India
unchallenged once they saw the back of the British. The Muslims had responded equally
forcefully and demanded that the British should first divide and then quit. On 23rd March
in 1940 the Muslim League at Minto Park, where Minar-i-Pakistan now stands, passed
separate home land for the Muslims in those parts of the Sub-continent where they
formed majority. This aspect of the city of Lahore is very vividly and realistically
It is through the conversation of the characters of the novel that we learn of the
political amorphousness of the events leading to the inevitable partition of the Sub-
continent, on the one hand, and on the other, increasingly divided Indian community on
the ethnic and political lines. The novelist very dexterously portrays the change in the
political scenario through the shift of topics of the conversation of the characters
involved. Before the deterioration of the political situation the ardent admires of Ayah
reflect upon the Second World War: “Characteristically, the Ice-candy-man starts by
giving us news of the world. The Germans, he informs us, have developed a deadly
weapon called the V-bombs that will turn the British into powdered ash” (28). But when
the political situation begins to develop from bad to worse, Ayah’s worshippers become
bitterer and are even determined to cut one another’s throats. Sidhwa observes:
You’re what? Only four million or so?” asks Masseur. “And if half of you
are in Pakistan, and the other half in India, you won’t have much clout in
either place.” You don’t worry about our clout!” says Sher Singh
offensively. “We can lookout for our self…You‘ll feel our clout all right
when the times come!” “The British had advised Jinnah to keep clear of
you bastards!” says the butcher just as offensively. “The Angrez call you a
bastards either,” roars the puny Sikh, sounding more and more like the
tiger in his name... “Once the line of Division is drawn in the Punjab, all
Muslims to the east of it will have their balls cut off!” (129-30)
With the partition fast approaching the cracks in the unity of this motley group begin to
manifest themselves and they become violent. Even the household of Lenny is infected by
this violence. The Hindu gardener Hari is an easy target of humiliation and torture:
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lift him. I feel a great swell of fear for Hari: and a surge of loathing for his
bodhi.Why must he persist in growing it? And flaunt his Hinduism? And
invite ridicule? and that preposterous and obscene dhoti? Worn like a
diaper between his stringy Legs- just begging to be taken off! (117-18)
Things begin to fall apart, and the atmosphere of mistrust and hatred gets intensified.
The characters increasingly use such language as smells of violence and murder as
really frightening and noisy; all is set for a bloody dance of death:
The Sikhs milling about in a huge blob in front wildly wave and clash their
swords, kirpans and hockey-sticks, and punctuate his shrieks with roars:”
nihaal”and the Muslims shouting: So? We’ll play Holi-with their blood!
With the ethnic and religious rift widening, a pack of “goondas” burst in Lenny’s house
looking for the Hindu Ayah. Everyone in the house smelled a rat, they were after Ayah.
Imam Din endeavored in vain to disperse them. They were adamant and furious burning
with rage and revenge: “The men’s eyes, lined with black antimony, rake us…A
hesitancy sparks in their brash eyes when they look at our mother” (179). They were bent
upon abducting her at any cost. The Ice-candy-man stepped forward and lured Lenny to
come out with the truth: “Ice-candy- man is crouched before me. “Don’t be scared, Lenny
baby,” he says. “I am here.” And putting his arm around me he whispers, so that only I
can hear, “I’ll protect Ayah with my life! You know I will…I know she’s here. Where is
she?” (182). Having unassailable confidence in him, she reveals her whereabouts and
instantly realizes that “…I had betrayed Ayah” (182). The goondas burst in and dragged
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her out threw her into the cart in front of the shocked Lenny’s household: “The last thing
I noticed was ayah, her mouth slack and piteously gaping, her disheveled hair flying into
her kidnapper’s faces, staring at us as if she wanted to leave behind her wide open and
After ayah had been abducted, a frantic search for her begins. They look for her
everywhere in Lahore, trying to ferret her out from the bowels of the earth. The search
took Lenny’s mother to a notorious locality of Lahore called Hera Mandi, a place
The Mogul princes built Hira Mandi – to house their illegitimate offspring
assurance than before. ‘But you know our world … who cares for
orphans? Each Emperor provided only for his own children, and neglected
the sons of his father. The boys became musicians, singers and poets.
Hira Mandi has been named after a nobleman who was fond of wine and women.
Commonly called Tibbi and the red light area, it is situated in the walled city and is the
greatest of all the attractions in the city. All and sundry, the young and the old, the sahib
and the servant, the married and the unmarried, all frequent that place. When the evening
falls, Hira Mandy comes to life with its glitter and glow. The music is soft, the laughter is
audible and the young girls with heavy make up on their faces are prepared to lure men to
a carpeted dancing floor with cushions and bolsters artistically arranged in the dim
romantic light of a chandelier. The room with its fragrance and atmosphere cast a spell
over the visitors and take them into a world of pleasure and fun, a fantasy world, a fairy
land. Although, now Hira Mandy is usually associated with one of the world’s oldest
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professions, prostitution, yet originally, during the Mughal times the courtesan’s home
was essentially associated with culture, and the nobility as a custom would send their
young ones to her home to learn etiquettes and gentle manners. Some of the singing girls
were extremely cultured and highly skilled in music, poetry and dance. They found their
way to the royal court and enchanted the nobility with their enthralling and bewitching
manners. It was with the arrival of the British and the decline of the old nobility that Hira
Mandy lost some of its luster, but the newly emerged princely states in the British India
and the landed gentry of the Punjab somehow managed to patronize it. Later on the
businessmen and the rich merchants also joined their ranks and the red light area began to
thrive. It was a status symbol and a mark of high social rank to arrange for a mujra on the
eve of such functions as marriage and the birth of a boy. Hira Mandy has also been a
recruiting place for the female singers and artists for cinema in Pakistan after 1947. Since
they are already good singers, dancers and possess rhythmical bodily gestures, so it is
convenient for them to display their talents in the art of acting in the movies and on the
stage: “The Shahi Mohalla has made tremendous contribution to the art of acting and
dancing. Just as most professional singers of both classical and popular music are
associated with Shahi Mohalla, or similar tradional bazaars, so are almost all female
actresses and some of the male actors of the film industry”(Saeed 142). It was after 1977
when an elaborate programme of purifying and correcting the Pakistani society of all kind
of corruption was initiated the singing and the dancing girls were ordered to put their
shutters down. Consequently, they had to vacate the Hira Mandy and its vicinity. They
spread out to the posh areas like Gulberg, Cantt and Defense Housing Society. Hera
Mandi was one area where the fallen women or lost girls could be discovered. Keeping
this in view Leny’s mother ransacked the red light area and ultimately, her efforts bore
fruit and she succeeded in locating the aya there. Ayah comes “teetering on high heels,
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tripping on the massive divided skirt of her garara, jangling gold bangles” (Sidhwa 259).
She had been given a new name, Mumtaz, a new religion, Christianity, a new identity and
a new role, the role of a singing girl and a prostitute in the society. The change in her
Where have the radiance and the animation gone? Can the soul be
extracted from its living body? Her vacant eyes are bigger than ever: wide-
opened with what they’ve seen and felt;wider even than the frightening
saucers and dinner plates that describe the watchful orbs of the three dogs
chambers. Colder than the ice that lurks behind the hazel in ice-candy-
Ice-candy-man is also a combination of many dissimilar traits and qualities. He may also
He has the knack and skill of changing his character and role. He is an ice-candy-man, a
bird seller, a pimp and a poet: “For Ice-candy-man is acquired a new aspect—that of a
moonstruck fakir who has renounced the world for his beloved: be it woman or God”
(270).
It through the converstion of the characters in the novel that we learn that the British
government had set up a Boundary Commission headed by Sir Radcliff, a retired British
judge to deal with the demarcation of boundary between India and Pakistan. He had never
set foot in the Sub-continent before. He was given an assignment to divide and demarcate
the boundaries of the province of Bengal and the Punjab, which would decide the fate of
millions of human beings: “Playing British gods under the ceiling fans of the Falettis
Hotel – behind Queen Victoria’s garden skirts – the Radcliff Commission deals out
Indian cities like a pack of cards. Lahore is dealt to Pakistan, Amritsar to India. Sialkot to
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Pakistan. Pathankot to India” (140). With the announcement of the decision of the
Boundary Commission on 17 August, 1947, popularly known as the Radcliff Award came
a new wave of massacre of innocent and helpless people on either side of the line .Some
So Gurdaspur’s gone to India after all,” says the zoo attendant, shaking his
turbaned head. Shush! Says the Government House gardener, cupping his
hand behind his hoary ear to listen better. The radio announces through the
His commentary upon the bloody state of affairs proves true when “a train from
Gurdaspur has just come in,” he announces, panting: “Everyone in it is dead. Butchered.
They are all Muslims. There are no young women among the dead! Only two gunny-bags
full of women’s breasts”! (149). Such incidents added fuel to the fire. The news of
Ambala, despite the fact that these areas were Muslim majority areas, had been awarded
to Baharat, reached Lahore. Their inclusion into Baharat came as a great shock. It is also
said that the bereaved Muslims of Amritsar sent bangles to the Muslims of Lahore as a
token of their cowardice and also to encourage them to take revenge of the heavy losses
in men, women and money they had suffered at the hands of the Sikhs. It was sufficient
enough to ignite the riots in Lahore. Burning with the desire of revenge they fell on the
non-Muslims of Lahore like hungry wolves ransacking their houses and putting them on
fire. Their houses were looted and even the small pieces of furniture were taken away.
The killing of a solitary wanderer into each other’s locality became the order of the day.
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Soon the sporadic killing was given up and a planned strategy of clearing Lahore of the
profane presence of the Sikhs and the Hindus was evolved as they were adamant to
entrench themselves in the city of Lahore hoping that they might carry the day in the end.
They had fortified themselves in their areas in the walled city particularly in the vicinity
of the Shalmi Gate where they outnumbered the Muslims and above all it was the centre
The battle of Lahore had begun; it was a battle to see who rules the city. True to its
history, Lahore was once again a battle ground, a city of fire and smoke, carnage and
bloodbath. Its inhabitants inside the city, the Hindus and the Sikhs were pitted against the
Muslims and were engaged desperately in a struggle to hold their own. This time they had
not come from across the mountains of Khyber like the army of Muhmud of Ghazna who
came down upon the city like a thunder storm in the year of 1022 A.D. and besieged the
walled city for three days compelling its ruler Jaypaul to give way. After three days of the
siege, his army managed to break the wall from the side which today is called the Mori
Gate and Lahore burnt for three days after it had been ransacked thoroughly. This time
they were the inhabitants of the same city who had put up with their neighbors for
centuries. On this occasion, both the Muslins and the non-Muslims were led not by their
military generals but by their political leaders arousing the feelings of intense hatred by
their fiery speeches and melodramatic actions. It was a battle to take revenge of the
barbarities inflicted on their brethren in the east of the Punjab where most heinous and
shameless crimes had been committed, unparallel in the history of mankind. The gory
drama had started and the audiences were there to watch and appreciate the skill and
precision of human action. One of the leading actors of the tragedy takes the centre stage:
…, and Master Tara Singh, in a white kurta, his parted beard bristling on
either side of his face, appears on the top steps of the Assembly Chambers.
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I see him clearly. He has a rifle slung from his back and his chest is
swathed in leather bands holding bullets. Tight white pyjamas hung his
ankles like bangles; bands round his waist hold a pistol and daggers. He
gets down to business right away. Holding a long sword in each hand, the
curved steel reflecting the sun’s glares as he clashes the swords above his
head, the Sikh solider-saint shouts: “We will fight to the last man! We will
show who will leave Lahore! Raj karega Khalsa, aki rahi na oi!” (133- 34)
Master Tara Singh very much resembling a melodramatic character, loud and noisy, later
on a common sight in the Punjabi movies made in Lahore, gave the lead. His community
responded by brandishing their kirpans foreshadowing the bloody future events, the
spilling of blood on the roads of Lahore, drenching the city in blood. The Muslims were
determined to give them a spirited reply and smoke them out of their hiding places. This
year, the Muslims claimed that they too would play Holi, Holi the Hindu festival in which
colored water and powder is splattered on the participants, but with the blood of the
Hindus and the Sikhs. The situation was tense and any spark could explode the whole
situation igniting the blood bath of innocent people on either side of the boarder.
Unfortunately, neither the political leadership of the Indians nor the civil administration
in the province of the Punjab had realized the gravity of the situation. Rather the collapse
of the administrative machinery to tackle and handle the crisis had added fuel to the fire.
Granted that, the crisis were of great magnitude and that the British had never confronted
this volcanic like situation before, nevertheless, they did not prove equal to the task and
allowed the situation to take a terrible turn right under their nose. The fact was that they
tarried and were tardy to take effective measures to deal with the situation which was
increasingly slipping out of their control. The truth of the matter is that after the Second
World War the British had neither the desire nor the power and the resources to govern
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such a vast colony which had served their interests for the last one hundred years or so.
Now their interest lied in saving their skin rather than in saving their honor. They were all
prepared for a shameful flight from India leaving their most beloved colony to its tragic
fate. The political leadership of the ill-fated Indians, on the other hand, was interested in
safeguarding the interests of their respective communities. Consequently, the break down
of the law and order situation encouraged the people to indulge themselves in a grim and
grisly game of fire and blood. The stage was set and the city of Lahore was about to
witness a bleak and dismal drama of gory actions and deeds: “And indeed the skyline of
the old walled city ablaze, and people splitting each other with blood! … ‘wait till you see
Shalmi burn!’ And pointing out landmarks from the crowded tenement roof: ‘That’s
Delhi gate … There’s lohari gate … There’s Mochi Darwaza …’ (134). So there it was
the old walled city, the city of twelve gates, the abode of Hazrat Data Ganj Buxh, a city
where the Badshah-i Mosque stands with all its glory of Islam, where the Muslims had
ruled for eight hundred years, a cradle of culture and civilization to whose development
even the non-Muslims had contributed, at that particular moment in history stood
and boots, runs up in the lane directly below us. And on their heels a mob
of Sikhs, their wild long hair and beards rampant, large fevered eyes
glowing in frantic faces, pours into the narrow lane roaring slogans
spear struck between her shoulders, is waved like a flag: her scream less
mouth agape she is staring straight up at me. I want to dive into the bestial
smashing brains: but the creature has too many stony hearts, too many
sightless eyes, deaf ears, mindless brains and tons of entwined entrails …
And then a slowly advancing mob of goondas: packed so tight that we can
see only the top of their heads. Roaring: ‘Allah-o-Akbar! Yaaa Ali!’ and
So both the communities, the Sikhs and the Muslims were engaged in a bloody war, like
wild and furious animals they were tearing, gnawing, and cutting each other’s throats.
Their eyes were wild and red like burning embers; mad with rage they had no mercy even
for the innocent and the weak, no milk of humanity. They were the incarnation of evil, the
demons of darkness and the heralds of mindless death. Raising slogans at full throat,
brandishing their naked weapons, they gave the impression of the procession of death, a
The terror the mobs generate is palpable – like an evil, paralyzing spell.
The terrible procession, like a sluggish river, flows beneath us. Every short
while a group of men, like a whirling eddy, stalls – and like the widening
The game of death was being played with great precision; the victims were picked with
great skill and killed with merciless speed. Amongst the spectators only the stone hearted
bore the sight of carnage, the river of blood, the blinding glow and clash of swords,
daggers and kirpans. The processionists are milling about two jeeps pushed back to back.
The men in front of the procession pulling ahead and the mob behind
banked close up. There is a quickening in the activity of the jeeps. My eyes
knocked down. His lips are drawn away rotting, paan-stained teeth in a
scream. The men move back and the small clearing I see his legs sticking
out of his dohoti right up to the groin – each thin, brown leg tied to a jeep
… (135)
most merciless and cold manner. It is a scene of hunting, a sight of pain and agony, the
hunting of men not animals. How indifferent and cruel to human pain and misery are the
hunters and how helpless and wretched are the hunted! The precision of narration of death
matches and exactly corresponds with the precision of killing. The killing is an art and so
is the narration and human beings are experts in both the arts. Lahore is red as it is soaked
with the blood of the innocent people. It was just like a sacrificial animal lying on the
earth after its throat had been cut, bleeding. The city has yet to witness more:
parapet. Tongues of pink flame licks two or three buildings in the bazaar.
The flames are hard to spot: no match to the massive growth of brick and
cement spreading on either side of the street. ‘Just watch. You’ll see a
tamasha!’ says Ice-candy-man ‘Wait till the fire gets to their stock of
centre of the bazaar bulge and bulge. Then the bricks start slowly
tumbling, and the dark slab of roof caves into the exploding furnace… the
So Lahore burnt and burnt for several weeks, a city of ‘hundred gardens’ had been
transformed into hell, inferno, a cradle of civilization was now a city of burned bricks and
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ashes, an aava. Everything melted, and crumbled into the furnace, into the flames. Along
with the buildings the fire burnt the old social fabric, the cultural patterns and the ages old
human relationships. The flames licked and engulfed everything that came their way. Out
of the ashes of the old city there would emerge a new city, a new Lahore the capital city
Since the locality of Shalmi, a bustling market of all kinds of goods, was the
commercial centre of the Hindus, it must be captured at all cost. The fall of Shalmi would
herald the end of the Hindu resistance and the triumph of the Muslims and the inclusion
of Lahore in Pakistan. The Hindus had stockpiled weapons in Shalmi to keep the city
The Hindus of Shalmi must have piled a lot of dynamite in their houses
and shops to drive the Muslims from Mochi Gate. The entire Shalmi, an
area covering about four square miles, flashes in explosions…I stare at the
which stiff figures looking like spread-eagled stick-dolls leap into the air,
black against the magenta furnace. Trapped by the spreading flames the
panicked Hindus rush in droves from one end of the street to the other.
Many disappear down the smoking lanes. Some collapse in the street.
Charred limbs and burnt logs are falling from the sky. (137)
The city assumes a new meaning, a theatre of cruelty; the scene once again changes
and presents the picture of smoke and fire. The whirlwind of fire wrapped human life. It
begins to burn; human beings of flesh and blood transformed and congealed into coal and
tar and their charred bodies begin to fall like burnt black birds from the sky. The heartless
spectators were there to appreciate the bleak tamasha. A similar tamasha was being
played on the other side of the Punjab. In the villages of the East Punjab, the Sikhs were
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busy in ethnic cleansing, driving the Muslims to the other side of the river Ravi through
sword and fire. Once again the women had to bear the burnt of physical violence. It is
through the voice of Ranna, a ten year old boy that we learn of some of the horrendous
He heard a woman cry, Do anything you want with me, but don’t torture
me…For God’s sake, don’t torture me! And then an intolerable screaming.
‘Oh God!’ a man whispered on a sobbing intake of breath. ‘Oh God, she is
the mullah’s daughter! The men covered their ears- and the boy’s ears –
Little Ranna who had witness the animal inside man, was in search of his mother hoping
that she might be alive, reaches the mosque of the village to witness women being
Stop whimpering, you bitch, or I’ll bugger you again!” a man said
was a loud cracking noise and the rattle of breath from the lungs. Then a
Even the stillness was a witness to the crimes being committed against women so
cruelty managed to reach safe haven in Lahore. The city once again was transformed into
a new place; again Lahore was beginning to change, and true to its character provided
shelter and refuge to the millions of people coming to Lahore from across the border
crossing the river of blood and fire. They were helpless, miserable and wretched. They
inhabited the houses vacated by the real occupants who had to flee their houses as a result
of the partition of India and Lahore being in Pakistan. Before they could occupy the
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vacant houses, the people in Lahore had taken full advantage of the disorderly situation
The first wave of looters, in mobs and processions, has carried away
passers- by, urchins and dogs now stray into the houses to scavenge amidst
spiders’ web and deep layers of dust, hoping to pick up old newspapers
and cardboard boxes, or any other leavings that have escaped the eye and
The vacated houses gave the impression of a deserted place, the ghost houses as if they
had never been inhabited by human beings. Their owners must have built them in
accordance with their desires and dreams. The idea of vacating them in such panic,
leaving their belongings behind, would never have crossed their minds. The unattended
untended gardenia hedges sprawl grotesquely and the lawns and flower
beds are overrun with weeds. There are patches of parched cracked clay in
which nothing grows. Even the mango and banyan trees look monstrous,
After the departure of the original occupants the houses displayed the signs of decay and
decadence. “It is astonishing how rapidly an uninhabited house decays. “ There are cracks
in the cement floor of the Singh’s annexe and big patches of damp on the walls. Clouds of
mosquitoes rise in dark corners and lizards cleave to the ceilings. It looks like a house
pinning for its departed-haunted-…” (176). The new occupants were strangers both to the
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city and to the houses they were allotted to live. They had reached Lahore in a very
wretched condition witnessing on their way to their new destination, the unspeakable
massacre and bloodbath. They had also witnessed the physical torture inflicted on their
womenfolk with ruthless barbarity and alacrity; they were also witness to the unspeakable
rituals of rape of women performed so shamelessly and stone heartedly that the human
history has no parallel to these acts of savagery. So they came to Lahore frightened and
terrified, carrying with them painful memories of what had happed to them:
they are coping with grief over dead kin and kidnapped womenfolk.
Grateful for the roof over their heads and the shelter of walls, our
So with the partition and the exodus of the non-Muslims from Lahore, the city changed
its color, character and outlook. The change was also demographic, which brought new
people with distinct habits and character to the city in millions. They were refuges and
belong to the same religion, Islam. Gone was the heterogeneous cultural element, a
mixture of Hinduism, Sikhism and Islam. This cultural homogeneity was the outcome of
Lahore before the partition of the Punjab had a unique and distinct culture which was
neither purely Muslim nor purely Hindu. It was a blend of several cultural, social and
religious forces coming into contact with one another and, as a result, created an
amorphous culture, a cosmopolitan culture in the course of time, reflecting itself in the
local festivals, social patterns, behavior, architecture and folk literature. After the
partition the city of Lahore was transformed into a different city, a city whose non-
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Muslim residents had to leave in fear and panic. Lahore now gave a new look, the
Beadon Road, bereft of the colorful turbans, hair bodies, yellow shorts,
tight pajamas and glittering religious arsenal of the Sikhs looks like any
Lahore, after the partition, had become a space for refugees who flooded the city and
gave it new of residents, the refugees. The schools, the colleges and palatial houses were
converted into refugee camps where the refugees were given temporary shelter and
provided with other basic necessities till the time they were allotted the houses which the
wealthy Hindus and Sikhs had evacuated, on the basis of their claim that they had left
behind their property of equal value. For this purpose a new department called the
Evacuee Department was established and all the property left by the non-Muslims was
called evacuee property waiting to be allotted to the new comers to the city. This created
a new kind of culture as some of them submitted false claims and some were cheated of
their original claims by those involved in this business. Amongst the refugees the women
presented the most wretched and deplorable picture of misery and pain. They were the
worst sufferer. Their pain was not only physical but also emotional and mental. The
agony of the loss of their men folk and property coupled with the loss of honor was
unbearable for them. The plight of women was really deplorable. The refugees were
provided with temporary shelter in the tents, schools and big houses. Refugee women
housed in the bungalow adjacent to Lenny’s house, present the most wretched and
miserable picture of womanhood. Lenny learns about the plight of these “fallen women”
through Hamida, one of the victims of partition, “Poor fate-smitten women,” says
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Hamida, sighing. “What can a sorrowing woman can do but wail?” “Who are those
women?” I ask. “God knows”, says Hamida. “Go to sleep…there is nothing we can
Hamida sees women as victims of fate, “Khut–putli, puppets, in the hands of fate” (222)
over which they don’t have any control. But what she is unable to see is the role of men in
the scheme of things, in the game of death, in targeting women for physical torture. It is
their society; they devise rules to control it, to govern it at any cost, even at the cost of
innocent women. It is extremely tragic that the fathers, brothers and husbands of those
women who managed to survive the calamity and catastrophe, refused to take them back
in the name of honor. They were left unsupported and helpless, completely at the mercy
‘They must miss you. You could see them secretly, couldn’t you?’
‘No,’ says Hamida turning her face away. “They’re better off as they are. My
sister- in- law will look after them. If their father gets to know I’ve met them he will only
Zaitoon, the female protagonist in Sidhwa’s novel The Bride also encounters similar
issues of fate, patriarchy and survival. The novel is set in Lahore and and Kohistan. It
highlights the amorphousness of Lahore of the 1950s and the 60s with its entire new
social, political and cultural aspects. It is a tale of her survival through the bloody riots of
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1947, the partition of the Punjab, her marriage into the tribe of hilly area of Kohistan, her
rape by a tribesman and her miraculous survival from the jaws of death.
Much of the story of the novel is set in Lahore, Lahore on the eve and after the partition
of the Punjab in 1947. We see the city through the eyes of Qasim, a Kohistani tribesman
who somehow manages to reach Lahore from Jullundur, a major city of the Indian Punjab
now after passing through the river of blood and fire. The initial setting of the novel is
Kohista inhabited by the tribesmen leading a very secluded life, rear animals for their
livelihood, and love their guns, pistols and above all their women whose honor they
would safeguard at all cost. Their world is extremely limited and uncorrupted by any
intervention and intrusion into their world. It is a world of feuds, tribal warfare which
continues for a long period of time, an inheritance, a legacy which a father or a tribal
Sardar leaves behind for his successors. The most precious gift in this world of violence
for a small boy is nothing but a gun given by the father, a symbol of inheritance of values
and traditions: “… when his father placed a heavy muzzle-loader in his arms, Qasim
flushed with pleasure… wishing to run behind a rock and seclude himself with the
precious gift” (Sidhwa 267). Marriages are bargained and price money of a bride is fixed
in accordance with her age and beauty. Women are also given in marriage to the enemy
tribe to settle an old feud. They are rarely treated as human beings, they are subjected to
oppression and exposed to all kinds of injustices; the very notions of choice and the
exercise of freedom are alien notions, yet they do have their dreams: ‘I used to wander by
streams,’ she said, ‘or sit on some high place dreaming of my future husband. Gusts of
wind enveloped me and I’d imagine the impatient caresses of my lover. My body was
young and full of longing. I’d squeeze my breasts to ease their ache…’” (270). But
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Afshan’s dream was a nightmare. She was happy on the eve of her marriage and was
… she peered through slit lashes and saw the sandaled feet of her husband
and then the shalwar-clad legs. Her heart constricted with dismay: she was
childish, frightened face and the slanting, cringing eyes watching her as if
All her dreams were dashed to the ground. But she had to accept her fate. Reconciliation
with fate seemed to be the only option she had: “That first night Afshan had lifted the
sleeping boy to her bed. Brushing his tear-streaked cheeks with her full red mouth, she
had tucked his legs between her thighs and fallen asleep” (270). After having controlled
her biological and sexual urges of a newly married girl, she soon became used to the daily
routine of work: “Afshan accepted her lot cheerfully. She helped her mother- in- law,
chaffed the maze, tended and milked the two goats, and frolicked her way through her
chores” (270). After four years of their marriage the bride was still a virgin, the marriage
not yet consummated. Wandering through the valleys and winding gullies for a couple of
years after his marriage, Qasim one day found his wife bathing in cold water stream, her
black wet shirt clinging to her ivory body, exposing her white breasts and pink nipples,
the tall and lanky Pathan leapt on her to hold her breasts just like a mountain tiger.
Shocked and bewildered by the sudden and unexpected assault, Afshan retaliated by
smacking and smashing him with a stick. But the excited Pathan would not give up. Their
rumpus attracted a passer by whose manhood could not tolerate the scene of insult hurled
on a weaker sex by a sheepish boy. Outraged by the assault, the stranger tried to be
chivalric. He dragged him with a view of inflicting punishment upon him. Qasim
screamed to be the husband of the embarrassing wife who seconded his claim. Afshan’s
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young body fascinated the stranger who glided towards her casting lewd glances. The
little husband could not bear his leering; he hit the stranger with a big stone and ran away
holding his wife’s hand, disappeared in the maze of little gullies. From this day their
relationship assumed a new dimension. Their marriage was consummated and they
produced six children within ten years time, but as the ill luck would have it, two of them
died of typhoid and after some time rest of his family was infected by small pox, first his
beloved daughter, Zaitoon died and after a couple of days his wife followed her daughter
to her grave. Qasim survived to mourn their deaths. Such was the tragic fate of the bride,
Afshan. Qasim was persuaded to seek job in the plains of the Punjab. He became a
The fate of Lahore like the fate of other cities of the Punjab had not yet been decided.
The Punjab had to be divided. The British were too busy to wind up, to roll back their
carpet and leave India depleted to the Indians: “Imperial trappings and servants, the rulers
of the Empire were entirely too busy to bother over much with how India was divided. It
was only one of the thousand and one chores they faced” (274). Putting aside all their
commitments of fare play and justice and their responsibility as rulers the British were
focused upon their own petty interests. “Furniture, artifacts and merchandise had to ship,
antiques curious, and jewellery acquired and transported” (274). The Indians, on the other
hand, were neither equipped nor prepared to take over such a heavy responsibility under
question of the partition of Bengal and the Punjab was a very serious question which
demanded immediate attention. If handled poorly and inefficiently, this pressing issue
would explode into an ugly situation causing damage in men and money on a massive
scale. The British Government had set up a Boundary Commission to draw a line dividing
Bengal and the Punjab allocating areas which would join the newly independent Bharat
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and Pakistan. The award, which was announced on the 17th of August 1947 after India
and Pakistan had come into existence, is popularly known as Radcliff Award. It soon
came notorious for its illogical demarcation of boundary line in both the provinces,
Bengal and the Punjab as it unleashed a reign of terror, massacre and bloodbath human
The earth is not easy to carve up. India required a deft and sensitive
cruelly negligent! A million Indians died. The earth sealed its clumsy new
Hindus going one way and Muslim the other. They left at odd hours to try
to dodge mobs bent on their destructions. Yet trains were ambushed and
The partition of the Punjab and Bengal was a sensitive issue as the lives of millions
of people and their land, business and property of worth billions of rupees were at stake.
It required partiality, sense of responsibility, fairplay and justice. The British, on the other
hand, handled the issue carelessly, inhumanly, insensitively and hastily. They displayed
complete coldness and had gone against all cannons of fairplay and justice. They were
just like a surgeon operating upon a human body and in the process bleeding it to death.
Consequently, millions of Indians lost their lives while crossing the boundary line in
panic and fear at odd hours of the day and night. Their dead bodies, carcasses and limbs
lied scattered on either side of the blood line like the autumn leaves; the trains loaded
with dead bodies arrived at the railway stations of both the countries presenting horrible
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scenes. It was expected that Lahore would be given to Bharat as it was inhabited by the
wealthy Hindus who controlled trade and commerce and were also a strong educated
middle class, though they were in minority. According to Saleem on the eve of partition,
Lahore was:
inhabited by around 240,000 Hindus and Sikhs who were at the time of the
1941 Census accounted for a third of its total population. … Much of the
which stretched for a mile outside the walled city from Lohari Gate to Nila
walled city such as the area around Shah Almi Gate and Chuna Mandi
were also non-Muslims. In all, Hindus and Sikhs owned two thirds of the
city’s shops, four fifths of its factories and paid seven tenths of its urban
taxes. (12)
In Lahore the Muslims were in a slight majority. The Hindus claimed that it had been
done by including the outlying villages into Lahore through boundary changes over the
years. So the non-Muslims also had their claim over Lahore. When it was announced that
Lahore had been awarded to Pakistan on the 17th of August: “extensive areas of the city
which had been inhabited by Hindus and Sikhs were in ruins following weeks of what has
been termed ‘a communal war of succession’ in the city. The cosmopolitan ‘Paris of the
East’ was a distant and poignant memory” (13). The Muslims were driven out of the
Indian Punjab, their houses looted and women raped and disgraced. Hundreds of Muslim
girls of Amritsar College were paraded naked in front of wild Sikhs who later on raped
them. The Muslims began to flee from their homes to refugee camps for the safety of
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their lives. Millions of them began their march towards their destination, Pakistan
uncertain and unsure whether they would reach the land of their dreams or not. The roads
and paths to Lahore lengthened, the shadows of fear and dread enveloped the miserable,
haggard and woebegone multitude and the journey was unendingly painful. On their way
they were ambushed and attacked several times by the marauding Sikhs. Thousands of
The train glides through the moon-hazed night, with a solid mass of
humanity clinging to it like flies to dung. From time to time a figure loses
its hold, or is forced off and drifts away like discarded rubbish. A cry, then
When the news of rape and rapine of the Muslim women and the massacre of the
Muslim men reached Lahore it kindled the flame of revenge in the Muslim population of
the city. Lahore began to bleed. It had been transformed from a peaceful, hospitable and
accommodating city, a land of saints who had given and taught the philosophy of
tolerance and love for all, to an ugly city of carnage, fire and bloodbath. Crucible. The
same heinous acts of murder and rape were repeated in Lahore as tactfully as they were
performed shamelessly and remorselessly somewhere else in the east Punjab in India. The
houses of the Hindus and the Sikhs were looted and burned to ashes; their women
abducted and raped; trains loaded with the non-Muslims were derailed to put the
passengers to sword. There was frenzy and insanity, the demons of darkness had taken
over: “‘I saw them myself - huge cauldrons of boiling oil and babies tossed into them”
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(275). Tales of ruthless massacre, and carnage went across the boarder which further
aggravated the already ugly situation intensifying the sentiments of hatred. Revenge on
either side of the boarder in the Punjab was the recurrent cry. Marauding bands and
highwaymen armed with pistols, guns, swords, singlets and matchets fell upon the
helpless, defenseless horror stricken people like hungry wolves and forced them to flee
with very little articles they could carry. They had little time to collect their belongings.
They could only collect their ornaments of gold and silver and cash “‘we can’t take all
this! He cried. ‘A trunk a piece, that’s all. Hide the jewellery somewhere on your body.
Come on, hurry up” (277), some of them even failed to pick up such things and had to
leave their ancestral homes in fear and great panic. As ill luck would have it, very few of
them managed to reach the refugee camps set up on the either side of the boarder for their
transportation to their destination which, of course, was still a far cry. Millions of the
uprooted and wretched creatures traveled the distance on foot, hungry and haggard. And
thousands boarded the ill-fated trains which never reached their destination. The railway
stations presented a very pathetic scene of terror-stricken people desperate to board the
train: “The train at Ludhiana station already swarmed with Muslims who had boarded it at
earlier stops. Panic-stricken families were abandoning their animals and possessions in an
attempt to get on” (278). Hundreds were left behind as there was not an inch of a space on
the train. In the compartments, toilets and roof, every space was filled with human beings.
They sat like animals huddled together breathing each other’s sweat in a stingy
atmosphere. They ran madly on the platform as the train began to stir: “The train glides
through the moon-hazed night, with a solid mass of humanity clinging to it like flies to
dung. From time to time a figure loses its hold, or is forced off and drifts away like
discarded rubbish. A cry then silence” (284). Greater tragedy awaited them. “They have
raised a barricade of logs across the tracks, and the steel rails swerve slightly where the
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lines disappear in blackness. On either side, ploughed stretches of earth spread black
wings to the horizon” (275). Like birds of prey they were waiting for their victims, the
train loaded with human beings to celebrate hooli with their blood. Their slogans rattled
the peace of the night: “‘God give our arms strength,’ one of them shouts, and in a sudden
movement, knives glimmer. Their cry, ‘Bole so Nihal, sat siri Akal,’ swell into the
ferocious chant: ‘Vengeance! Vengeance! Vengeance!’ The old Sikh sinks to his knees”
(276). Qasim was one of those thousands of people, who considered themselves most
fortunate when he managed to get on the train bound for Lahore, for ruthless massacre.
Unaware of the grim situation which was about to happen to them the Muslims on the
train were dozing. When the train took a bend and revealed the tracks ahead, Qasim
immediate smelled a rat. His mountain instinct warned him of the danger lying ahead. He
As the centre carriage moves past him he sees the train buck. Only now
does the engine-driver realizes there is something farther down the track.
A roar rises from the mass of jolted refugees. The train’s single headlight
flashes on. It spotlights the barricade of logs and some unaligned rails.
White singlets flicker in and out of the glare. The train brakes heavy and
the engine crashes into the logs. People are flung from their scant hold on
footboards, roofs and buffers. Women and children pour from the
The moment the train stopped, the wild men hiding in the dark fell upon the Muslim
refugees cutting them into bits and pieces, mowing them to the last man: “Qasim sees the
men clearly. They are Sikhs. Tall, crazed men wave swords. A cry: ‘Bole so Nihal’, and
the answering roar, ‘Sat siri Akar!’ torches unevenly light the scene and Qasim watches
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the massacre as in a cinema” (286). Qasim saw the scenes of stabbing and rape: “The flap
of her burkha is over her head. A Sikh, sweat gleaming on his naked torso, is holding one
breast. She is screaming” (287). The refugees began to fall like dead leaves into the pool
of hot blood. The carnage continued for some time with the same ferocity with which it
had started. Dead bodies were falling on one another, a heap of dead bodies: “A woman
tramples over him. He tries to ward off the suffocating forest of legs with his arms. More
and more legs trample him, until mercifully he feels no pain” (287). The looters and the
killers were merciless. They even killed the innocent children, harpooned the unborn
children from the wombs of their mothers: “The carnage is subsiding. Already they are
herding and dragging the young women away. The dying and the dead are being looted of
their bloodied ornaments and weapons. An eerie silence settles on the stench of blood”
(288). Qasim suddenly found himself alone in the midst of darkness then a sudden
thought of crossing the boarder before daybreak came to him. He hastened towards the
boarder but his speed was checked by a small frightened child who clung to his legs for
protection: “… ‘Abba, Abba, my Abba!’ “… The child was the size of his own little
Zaitoon lost so long ago. Her sobs sounded an eerie, forlorn echo from his past. Then,
brutally untangling her stubborn grasp, he plunged ahead” (288). Overpowered by his
instinct to survive, he thought of killing her but then overwhelmed by the tender feelings
he drew closer to her. Her resemblance to her own daughter aroused in him fatherly love
I had a little girl once. Her name was Zaitoon. You are so like her… She
leaned against him, trembling, and he, close to his heart, felt her
wondrously warm and fragile. A great tenderness swept over him, and
recognizing how that fateful night had thrown them together, he said,
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‘Munni, you are like the smooth, dark olive, the Zaitoon, that grows near
our hills…The name suits you…I shall call you Zaitoon. With Munni in
Lahore lay wounded, raped and plundered. It was a city of smoke and blood. Yet for
the refugees it was a safe haven from the atrocities and cruelties inflicted upon them. It
was ultimately both their destiny and destination. “… Qasim wanted to plunge into the
heart of the city, into the thicket of Muslim safety” (290). Although, the killing had
subsided the Hindus and the Sikhs had either fled or been killed, yet the impact of
ruthless killing and loot was still visible. The city had been brutally bruised and scarred:
The uneasy city was awakening furtively, like a sick man pondering each
movement lest pain recurs. The slaughter of the past weeks, the exodus,
and the conflagrations were almost over. Looted houses stood vacant, their
gaping doors and windows glaring balefully. Men, freshly dead, their
bodies pale and velvety, still lay in alleys and in open drains. (290)
It was just like a graveyard which had tossed up the dead bodies after a heavy rain.
Grasping the opportunity which had arisen as a result of the riots, people began to settle
the old scores. Since death was cheap and killing had become a habit, there was no
hesitation to kill people of your own faith to rob them of their possessions:
By the amulet around his neck, by the trim of his hair and mustache,
Qasim could tell that the man was of his own faith. Hindus and Sikhs had
fled the area andhe wondered what passion had caused a Mussalman to kill
million people, became casual and humdrum. It was easy to kill. Taking
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Muslim. (291)
The chaos, a result of the partition of the Punjab, had given the people a heaven sent
opportunity to kill even their own co-religionists. The chance was there to settle the old
scores, to take revenge, to encroach upon the land and property of you neighbor and it
was successfully availed under the shield and smoke screen of the riots. The killers
escaped scot-free. Haggard and humbled Qasim treaded along the Grand Trunk Road,
built by the great Pathan emperor of the Sub-continent, Sher Shah Suri linking Peshawar
with Calcutta , ultimately reached a refugee camp at Badami Bagh where he “waded into
the flood of brown sweating bodies, swimming in heat and dust ” (280). Lahore provided
the refugees with shelter and food, a temporary refuge till the time they were allotted the
houses vacated by the Hindus and the Sikhs who had gone to India. The city of Lahore,
true to its historical role, spread its arms to accommodate the haggard Muslim refugees
who had lost everything they had in the bloody riots ensuing the partition of the Punjab.
At various places the refugee camps had been set up where the people of Lahore rushed
with cauldrons of steaming rice and other edibles from dawn to dusk. Young men
volunteered themselves to cater to the needs and requirements of the wretched and the
miserable. They worked with exemplary devotion and dedication to redress the physical
and the psychological scars of their brethren and left no stone unturned to make them feel
at home in the camps. The girl guides did not lag behind in this regard and helped the
women refugees with the same zest and zeal which the scouts had displayed. The work of
women volunteers was also commendable. They had to work under adverse
The women volunteers had lifted over twenty little babies from the rows of
dead bodies where their mothers lay. To get the refugees out of trains full
(scarfs) and often with hardly any clothes on, crying for those gone or left
behind; to see so many orphaned girls and boys-all this was indeed most
painful. (215)
But the women volunteers rose to the occasion and undaunted by the ugly situation,
worked day in and day out in the refugee camps. The whole city presented the picture of
self-sacrifice and the generosity of the Lahoris new no bounds: “The people of Lahore
gave a right royal reception to the newcomers. Cauldrons of rice could be seen cooking
all over the place for distribution among the refugees” (Amiruddin 293). This is the other
aspect or facet of Lahore an altogether different facet from the one which the city had
betrayed on the eve of partition when the people of Lahore were thirsty of blood, the
blood of the Hindus and the Sikhs and staged the scenes of carnage very much like scenes
in a revenge tragedy. The residential buildings of the non-Muslims were put to fire; even
the places of worship were not spared: “The charred bodies of the worshippers were being
loaded on to a military truck. The sturdy army jawans had come in the morning to save
these corpses and, extracting them from the burnt-out building, were throwing them into
the trucks of putrefying grain” (Tansuvi 35). Lahore had been transformed from a city of
peace and beauty to a city of wailing and mourning. It was just like a woman weeping and
crying after being humbled, humiliated and raped. Everyday the trains loaded with dead
bodies arrived at the railway station. It would be a miracle if someone was discovered
had been strangled. Absolutely silent. There was the noise of thousands of
people, but this noise could not dispel the building’s stillness. Barbed wire
had been put up all around the station, overseen by the military, and people
were bringing the wounded from the platforms. The wailing and crying of
the relatives had turned the place into a house of mourning. A relief camp
had been set up, and the and the dead were being loaded on to lorries for
Qasim, however, managed to survive through the mindless killing and reached a
refugee camp and after a couple of weeks of fear and dread he felt secured: “Qasim and
Zaitoon slept exhausted under the tree all day” (Sidwah 292). Then came the dust storm
and rain which provided the refugee a little bit of relief: “The rain exhilarated the camp.
Irritated, bitter tempers gave wave to camaraderie. Men and women teased each other,
laughed and roam around like children. Naked children wallowed in foamy cushions of
mud, splattering the slush, dancing and shouting” (294). Is not it strange how little time
people take to forget their pain and pangs? Life has its own logic and takes its own
course. It moves like a river sometimes in flood and othertimes calm and quite.
Unpredictable, life is just like a bubble of water which evaporates so suddenly leaving
behind no trace of it. Pain and pleasure walk hand in hand; they are each other’s
companions. On watching these refugees enjoying in the rain nobody could imagine that
just a couple of days back they were the victims of the most heinous crimes ever
committed against humanity in the annals of history. These refugees huddled together and
heard ‘each other groan’; they narrate tales of horror, murder and treachery:
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Then Nikka said, ‘Do you know what those swine did in my village? They
herded the Muslims into a camp for protection … protection mind you …
because of some fool rumor – Allah grant it be true- that a train of loaded
of Hindus and Sikhs had been slaughtered near Wagha. Once inside the
camp, a Sikh police inspector – the dog’s Penis- picked up a machine- gun
Lahore soon came to life again; the same hustle and bustle in the bazaars could be
seen. But it was a new Lahore, born of its previous existence with a scarred body,
smeared with human blood and a smoked face. Still hordes of refugees could be seen on
the roads, sitting in the parks, whole families in rags begging and staring at the sky.
Gradually, the refugees began to settle down to the new tunes of their life on an alien
land, Lahore. They were fast learning to reconcile themselves with the new situation.
Qasim befriended a man called Nikha in the refugee camp who had come to rescue him
and little Zaitoon when a dust storm had almost killed them. Nikha was about thirty. A
black cord, stringing a silver amulet, hung from his neck. He was shorter than Qasim but
‘Nikha. They call me Nikha Pehelwan. Come let’s have a look at the tree,’ he
Wrestling has been an important manifestation of a healthy cultural activity of all the
ancient civilizations as well as a part of military training of their armies. It has been a
popular cultural and physical activity amongst the people of Lahore even before the
partition in 1947 and Lahore rightfully takes pride in producing some very prominent
wrestlers in the Sub-continent who not only floored the Indian but also the European
wrestlers. The popularity of wrestling can be ascertained by the fact that Lahore had a
large number of Akharas where hundreds of wrestlers exercised daily. There were three
popular groups of wrestlers in Lahore, Kaluwale, Noorewale and Kotwale. The pioneer of
the former group of wrestlers was Ustad Kalu and Ustad Noora was the pioneer of the
latter and the pioneer of the third group was Elalhi Buksh Pehelwan. Boota Pehelwan,
known as Rustam-e- Hind, Chuha Pehelwan, Ghamu Pehelwan and above all Ghungha
Pehelwan were some of the prominent wrestlers who belonged to the Kaluwala group. A
wrestling bout between the Ghungha Pehelwan of the Kaluwale group and Imam Bukhs
Pehelwan of the Kotwale group would be remembered till eternity. Both the wrestlers
were paragon of physical strength, they were giants, and knew all the tricks of the trade.
Amongst the wrestlers who belonged to the Noorewale group mention may be made of
Charag Pehelwan, Khalifa Mahraj Pelehwan and Khalifa Ghulam Muhidudin. Bholu
Pehelwan Rustam-e- Hind, Aslam Pehelwan, Akram Pehelwana, and Lal Pehelwan
belonged to the Kotwale group. They had excelled themselves in the art of wrestling. The
history of wrestling not only in the Sub-continent but also in the world would remain
incomplete if mention is not made of one very famous wrestler of the Sub-continent,
Rustam-e- Zaman Ghama Pehelwan who had given grace and beauty to this art. He was
matchless in physical strength and peerless in the skill of wrestling. He toured Europe and
challenged the European wrestlers; no wrestler picked up the towel except Dozebesco.
Dozebesco was a famous Russian wrestler and the fight between these two great wrestlers
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continued for more than three hours. Ultimately Dozebesco accepted his defeat and
Ghama Pehelwam returned to Lahore victorious and his reception was unprecedented. He
belonged to the Kotwale group. Another Pehelwan who belonged to the Kotwale group
and rose to prominence and glory which perhaps very few wrestlers could achieve was
none other than the famous Imam Bushk Pehelwan Rustam-e- Hind. He was the younger
brother of Ghama Pehelwan. Imam Bukhs not only defeated the Indian wrestlers but also
the European wrestlers. He floored Rustam John Lamb, the Italian wrestler within three
minutes of the start of the bout and earned the title of Rustam-e-Hind. These three groups
were so called because of their distinct style of wrestling. Wrestling bouts amongst these
were a regular feature of the culture of Lahore. People in thousands, not only from Lahore
but also from other parts of India, would throng the Akhara specially built for this
purpose, whenever the prominent wrestlers would face each other in the bout. One of the
historical wrestling bouts was fought between Ghungha Pehelwan and Imam Buksh
Pehelwan in the Minto Park Lahore where a special Akhara was built for this purpose.
This bout has gone in the annals of wrestling in the Sub-continent as the most memorable
one of all the bouts ever fought. But unfortunately, the bout turned out to be a
controversial one as Imam Buksh Pehelwan after being defeated refused to accept the
The wrestlers were patronized by the rulers of the various princely states in India.
They would meet the expenditure raised on a wrestler for his preparation for the bout
which means rigorous physical exercise daily for several hours and special food to
maintain his health. The intake of food which includes milk, butter, yogurt, almonds and
mutton cost hundred of rupees daily and it was impossible for a wrestler who generally
belonged to a humble family to meet such expenses. In addition to daily expenditure, the
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Princes and the Nawabs very generously would shower on the wrestler gold and silver on
winning the bout. A wrestler would also receive monthly allowance. After the
independence, wrestling lost its patronage as the princely states either joined India or
Pakistan; consequently, the culture of wrestling began to decline and the Akharas began
to give a deserted look. Some of the famous Akharas, Akhara Khalifa Boota situated in
the North of Lahore Fort in a garden called Leela Park, Akhara Takya Tajay Shah,
situated at the Chamberlain Road, Akhara Viam Shahla, situated at Mohni Road outside
the Taxsali Gate where the famous Rustam-e Zaman Bholu Pehelwan used to do the
physical exercises, Akhara Bandu Shah, situated outside the Mochi Gate now
unfortunately have become history. These Akharas either have been encroached upon or
occupied for commercial purposes, the construction of commercial markets or plazas. The
disappearance of Akharas has proved to be the last nail in the coffin. And today this
ancient culture is breathing its last. Wrestling, as a game created a healthy competition
amongst the youth of Lahore. By inculcating discipline in wrestlers, it promoted the value
of patients and the culture of accepting defeat with grace. The youth at the same time
learnt the art of maintaining good health. Unfortunately, with the demise of this kind of
healthy cultural activity, the culture of drugs got ascendancy and the drug addicted youth
roaming on the streets of Lahore or lying on the pavements is a common pitiable scene
these days.
The partition had brought with it a host of new problems. There was chaos and
disorder and the absence of organized and competent administration machinery had
further complicated the problems. New political and bureaucratic structure had to be built
in order to run the new state. Lahore, being the provincial capital had greater
responsibility to maintain law and order. The exodus of the Hindus and the Sikhs who
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were in the service of the provincial government before the partition had left a gap.
Lahore was a new city, a new locale. , wounded and burnt. The streets and its roads which
before the partition presented a spectacle of motley of Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims had
been robbed of their non-Muslim residents: “It was the same road, the same crossings and
turnings, but not a Hindu or Sikh was in sight. Where had they all gone? They say there
were four lakh Hindus and Sikhs in Lahore. What had happened to them?” (Taunsvi 48).
They had either been killed or gone to the refugee camps. Moreover, the arrival of the
refugees in millions further complicated the situation. First of all they had to be provided
with shelter and food and then with jobs. It was a Herculean task which required and
demanded great effort and work on war footing. The administration in Lahore was not
only inexperienced but also did not have the resources to coop with the rapidly
deteriorating situation:
Hordes of refugees still poured in, seeking jobs. The nation was new. The
opportunists - the nation fought for its balance, ideologies vied with
reason, and everyone had his own concept of independence. (Sidhwa 307)
It was difficult to maintain order for several reasons. The city of Lahore witnessed the
worst kind of riots of its history, and to accommodate the refugees in millions and to
attend the sick and the wounded was a task which required and demanded superhuman
effort. Moreover the opportunists and the looters in the city made hay when the sun was
shining. To them independence meant to ransack the shops loaded with merchandize, and
the houses left by the Hindus and the Sikhs and took away everything they could hold:
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to take away what was mine, but there was nothing left to take away
except the heavy furniture… I pulled the chest of drawers, each one of
them was empty. Between two drawers I found stuck the bronze plate with
One gold and two silver medals were not there. In fact, the entire
household stuff, crockery and cutlery, provisions of food and clothes were
They did not need the books at all. To others independence had a different concept, to
purify Lahore of every symbol and sign of whatever was not Islamic, as the independence
The marble canopy that had delicately domed Queen Victoria’s majesty
for decades looked naked and bereft without her enormous, dour statue.
Prince Albert, astride his yellowing marble horse, was whisked away one
night from the Mall; as were the busts of Viceroys and Lords from various
esteem and dark with age vanished from club halls and official buildings to
So the complexion of the Mall Road changed. It looked bald and poor, robbed off. The
marble had gone the bricks remained. The road itself, the symbol of British Raj, stayed
there, though its name changed, now it was called Shah-re Qaid-i-Azam. Although the
portraits of white men had been taken away from the clubs, yet those British officials in
the civil and military services of the new Islamic country, who had been requested to
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serve, graced the evenings. Along with the White Governor of the Punjab residing in the
Government House on the Mall opposite the Lahore Zoo, another sign of British legacy,
there were a large number of British officials serving the nation both in the civil and
military administration. Even after they had finally left Pakistan after a couple of years of
its independence, the Pakistani officials still feel very proud to mimic those white men of
the yester days, same mannerism of behavior and rule. Lahore began to give a different
look; it had changed, transformed physically and culturally. Its old inhabitants, the
Hindus and the Sikhs along with their cultural and religious rites and rituals had gone.
The arrival of the Muslim refugees from across the border gave the city a new color.
Both, the city and the refugees were alien to each other. They would definitely take time
Qasim perched a frightened Zatoon on the tall, proud snout of the Zam-
Zam cannon, known because of Kipling as ‘Kim’s gun’. They sat on the
sands of the shallow Ravi, gazing at its gentle brown eddies … Lahore- the
lovers. A little shoddy, as Qasim saw her; like as attractive but aging
That is how Qasim sees Lahore epitomizing its history since the time of the Hindu
Rajputs to the British Raj. Situated on the left bank of the river Rivi, a witness to its ebb
and flow, rise and fall and shifting of loyalties, to its rulers the city of Lahore has always
been like a precious jewel. There have been bloody and destructive wars amongst the
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rivals to possess this most valuable and covetous jewel. And like a cunning and well-
experienced whore it had fallen into the lap of its possessors and conquerors providing
them with pleasure, closing its eyes to its previous masters. It had never been retained by
one master and had always displayed loyalty towards the new master welcoming it with
open arms and a very warm heart. Change of loyalties and betrayal has been its character.
The Mughals after taking possession of it decorated and ornamented it with beautiful
architectural structures and designs bestowed upon it the honor, beauty and glory which
the city never had in the past. It basked in unprecedented splendor and was oozing out
with youth like a voluptuous young woman. The ancient whore responded with equal
warmth of love and provided the Mughals with pleasure and fun till the Sikhs hordes fell
upon it like hungry wolves disgracing and humiliating it by robbing and denuding it of
jewels, ornaments and coverings. The British came with a healing hand and restored its
honor. Although, on the eve of partition in the fall of 1947 it had aged, yet it was very
In the fall of 1947, Lahore was yet again passing through another bloody and gory
phase of its history. The gathering of red storm had started even before 1947 but no one
could predict and calculate the magnitude of destruction awaiting the people. It came like
an army of locusts enveloping and wrapping everything in smoke and fire. Before it had
subsided, it had uprooted and disturbed ninety million people in the Punjab, creating
problems on unprecedented scale. Every village on either side of the boundary line, which
came into existence as a result of Radcliff Award, was terribly affected. People had to
leave their homes and hearths in panic and fear. The caravans of thousands of uprooted
masses dragging towards Pakistan and India kept on reducing as they were attacked with
unspeakable ferocity and regularity at various places during their tragic journey. The
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trains loaded with carcasses, mutilated bodies, the compartments with pool of blood
arrived at the platforms. No passenger but the stiffening smell of blood and human flesh
came out. People at the platforms looked at the trains with horror; they were so terrified
as they would not go closer to the carriers and coffins of death. The Lahore Railway
Station was tired of receiving such bloody trains. It shook and quaked with the arrival of
each tragic train. The very sight of its structure, a specimen of excellent architectural
design of the British Raj, no longer appealed to the aesthetics of the onlookers rather it
filled their hearts with horror and fear. The hustle and bustle inside the station on the
platforms, the struggle of the passengers to board the train and to come out, the shouting
of the tongawalas to compete with each other for passengers outside the station, all had
gone. There was complete stillness and the building presented the picture of a cemetery.
However, for Qasim life was coming back to normalcy and the agony of a painful
journey subsiding. He along with Nikka pahalwan rented a couple of adjacent rooms on
the second floor of a narrow three-storeyed building in the neighborhood of Qila Gujjar
Singh, a locality, named after its occupant in the last decade of the eighteenth century,
Gujjar Singh, one of the four Sikh chieftains who were holding Lahore till Ranjit Singh in
1799 snatched the city from them. Nikka’s prowess as a wrestler soon brought him
respect and people began to approach him for arbitration in family matters, disputes over
property and other social issues. His generosity and capacity for arbitration won him great
fame. Even the local police treated him with respect and honor. Consequently, he set up
his own kingdom in his area of influence and began to rule like an undisputed king. So
Nikka and Qasim like other refugees, slowly but steadily, began to settle down in Lahore
and play a role of their own in its new political, social and cultural environment.
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Lahore, therefore, was gradually awakening to specific political cultural and social
activities in the 1950s. The landlords of the Punjab who had their big chunks of land in
their respective areas had palatial houses in Lahore as well. Lahore being the capital of
the Punjab Province, housing the provincial assembly, was the centre of all the political
activity. Since the Punjab was predominantly an agricultural province, the big landlords
were dominant in its politics. There emerged political rivalries amongst them which
consequently led to political murders. Resultantly, politics in the Punjab turned violent
and the rivalries amongst the politicians deepened. In order to eliminate their political
opponents, the politicians cultivated a culture of hiring the services of such men as Nikka
pehelwan through their touts and scalpers so that they should not be suspected of their
heinous involvement in such murders. One such tout visits Nikka pehelwan:
himself. ‘Such a great man, such a prince. One would think he had no
‘Can I help in any way?’ he asked. Chaudhry Sahib was reputed to be one
of the most trusted associates of the light One. ‘Our inspired leader has
be dealt with. Somehow he will have to be liquidated. Can you manage it?
He was hesitant to kill a man against whom he did not have any personal grudge.
Moreover he was not a professional killer, though in one of his wrestling matches he had
broken the neck of his opponent. But it was just an accident. If Nikka gives his consent he
will be provided with all kind of protection: “You will live where you wish, and maintain
your status and respect. Not a soul will dare touch one hair on your head. In fact you will
be favored…” (316). And for this he will receive five thousand rupees. This is how a
culture of politically motivated murders was cultivated and promoted in Lahore by the
high ups and those who were at the helm of affairs at that time. The elections at the tehsil
and district level had further added fuel to fire and the defeat in the elections was
considered a blot on the reputation and prestige of the whole of the baraderi. The murder
of the opponent therefore, would restore the lost honor. So Lahore had become a hunting
ground for the killing of political opponents as it was neither desirable nor feasible to kill
the political rival in his area of influence or village. The rich politicians and the landlords
cultivated the culture of visiting Hira Mandi for entertainment and pleasure. Hira Mandi,
popularly called Diamond Market, is one place in Lahore where entertainment is provided
to all and sundry irrespective of class, color and creed. It has its own peculiar culture and
comes to life in the darkness of night: “the Hera Mandi is Lahore’s pleasure bazaar.
Through open ground floor windows can be seen brightly dressed women lounging in
brightly lit rooms, gossiping and waiting for customers. They are of the Kanjar caste,
Nobody had any notion when was this glittering city of dancing girls and singing
Nobody knew how Hira Mandi had come to be located there, though old
residents recalled childhood tales told by their elders, who had said this
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was the main camping ground of the Sikh army of Maharaja Ranjit Singh,
then ruler of the Punjab. It was said that a few women of easy virtue first
set themselves up on its outskirts to offer their services to the soldiers, and
their number and influence grown with time. When the Maharaja died and
his empire started crumbling some years later, these women who had by
camping ground, until, finally, the army was completely ousted to make
Some of the streets and roads were named after the renowned singing girls, concubines
and prostitutes who were the blue eyed girls of the Sikh Rajas: “The road on which
Hakeem Mahir’s house and pharmacy stood had been named after Rattan Bai, the teenage
dancing girl from Hira Mandi whom Maharaja Singh, a direct descendant of Maharaja
Ranjit Singh, had installed as his mistress in his large haveli a couple of furlongs away”
(53). After the partition in 1947, the landlords and politicians of the Punjab continued the
tradition of visiting the dancing girls of their choice. Sardar Ghulam Ali Hussain,
politician and landlord of Lalamusa “a thin, tall, predatory-looking man who had been
identified as Nikka’s victim was also a regular visitor of Hira Mandi. He was fond of a
singing girl named Shahnaz whose beauty and captivating mannerism had enslaved him”
(Sidhwa 322). Qasim spotted him there at the Hira Mandi: “The gleaming chrome and
black shapes looked vaguely familiar … and instantly Qasim was alert. He sensed that the
celebrity Nikka was after was right here” (319). He tried to search for him to report it to
Nikka. He locates him in the house which belongs to a dancing girl called Shahnaz who
was famous for her bewitching manners in the whole of Hira Mandi:
Snatches of laughter and the shrill voice of a singing girl came from
behind The closed doors. ‘The bastard is having a good time,’ thought
Qasim. ‘Why can’t I go in? Your masters are not only men around, you
dimvit. One of the men climbed down and, pushing Qasim roughly
won’t leave till two.’ A riotous burst of laughter came through the closed
doors. Qasim wondered if the man inside were drunk. ‘Are those whoring
Since the landlords had enemies, so it was customary to have a battery of guards to
protect their masters. It was quite common a sight during those days and even today to
see the politicians and the opulent landlords surrounded by men carrying guns and
Kalashnikovs. They would follow their masters wherever they go even to places like Hira
Mandi and would ensure that no other customer should visit the floozy at that particular
time when their master is around. Hira Mandi does have its own traditions as well which
are seldom violated. Special guests are treated exclusively and when there are no
customers about, are allowed to grace the mujra. After the independence, and with the
decline of the princely states, the culture of Hira Mandi was given a new impetus by the
landlords. To them it was the most important means of recreation after the hectic political
and business activity. A regular feature of their daily routine was the spending of their
evenings at the Hira Mandi where a dancing girl of their choice would entertain them
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with her song and dance. They would even arrange musical nights at their residences at
Lahore to which the high ups of the city were invited. Such colorful gatherings were used
as a ladder to reach the people in power for certain concessions in politics as well as in
business. Gradually, this created a kind of culture where women and wine were used to
relax the rules of business to favor the few. And at the same time a new class of brokers
and pimps came into being. Consequently, corruption in business, politics and morals
began to rise rapidly. Some of the landlords even married the singing girls and floozies
and others preferred to keep them to spend leisure time with them. Hira Mandi, a place
associated with sensual and physical pleasures for some becomes a slaughter house as
intoxicated with wine and pleasure, they fall an easy prey to their assassin.
As soon as Nikka got the wind of Sardar Ghulam Ali Hussein’s presence in the
vicinity of Hira Mandi he made a bee line to that place and ‘the radio suddenly
announced, “Sardar Ghulam Ali Hussein, landlord and politician, was assassinated this
morning” (324). It was neither the first announcement of its kind nor the last one because
this was not at all the first political murder. The mutual prejudices of the Punjabi leaders
and their desire to capture power led to chaos and the break up of the political order.
Consequently, there emerged small but effective political groups intending to wield
power for their own advantages. The shifting of political loyalties had become the order
of the day. In the fall of 1953, the tug of war to wield power between Malik Ghulam
Muhammad, the Governor General of Pakistan and Khwaja Nazimuddin, the Prime
Minister had reached a point where reconciliation between the two looked improbable.
The politics of clash at the centre had its consequences on the Punjab. Mumtaz Daultana
was the Chief Minister of the province and also the president of the Punjab Muslim
League. The Governor General thought that Mumtaz Daultana, an influential landlord and
Muslim Leaguer who was quite active in the politics of the Punjab, was supporting the
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Prime Minister, so he maneuvered to get rid of him. There were bloody riots on the issue
of the finality of the prophet hood of Muhammad (peace be upon him). The ulema were
all power for himself. In February, 1953, the movement went well beyond
The military which had been called upon to maintain law and order opened fire on the
demonstrators in Lahore which resulted in heavy causalities of the people on the road.
The palatial conspiracies, shifting of loyalties and the allegedly corrupt practices of the
politicians allowed the military to intervene into the political and constitutional affairs.
General Muhammad Ayub Khan, the then commander-in-chief of the armed forces
imposed Martial Law in Pakistan on the 16th of October 1958. Pakistan, therefore, was
1950s and 60s was emerging as a city where politics of clash and conspiracy, a clash of
military and democratic forces, and the rise of new litearay trends were creating an
amorphous culture of the opposite and the contradictory elements and incongruous
constituents.
Despite the fact that Martial Law authorities had imposed and implemented strict and
stringent restrictions on the freedom of speech and expression, nevertheless, the literary
figures of Lahore somehow managed to devote themselves to the promotion of art and
theatre in the city. It was in the fall of 1958 that a group of writers which included such
names as Qurratulain Haider, Jamiluddin Aali and Gullam Abbas, under the umbrella of
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Qudrat-ul-ullah Shahab set up a literary society called the Writer’s Guild. Although,
Karachi was the main centre of its literary activities, yet Lahore did not lag behind in
arranging literary function on its platform. It set out its own literary magazine which
published the poetic and prose works of some of the renowned writers of Pakistan.
Amongst the objectives of the writer’s Guild was to extend help to those writers who had
been put behind the bar on a variety of charges and were unable to meet the expenses of
their legal fight. It was on the recommendations of the Guild that the law of copy write
was passed to protect the legitimate rights of the writers and the payment of their
loyalties. Central Urdu Board and National Book Council were also set up in accordance
But it was in the field of Theatre, Film and Radio that Lahore made its mark. Even in
the pre-partition era Lahore had always displayed enthusiasm and exuberance for
theatrical companies visiting Lahore for their theatrical performance. The theatrical
companies which visited Lahore from Lucknow and Bombay were warmly received by
the Lahoris. In fact, some of the technicians, musicians, actors and actresses of those
companies belonged to Lahore. Brad Law Hall at the Rettigon Road and two other Stage
Halls outside Bhatti Gate, later on converted into cinema halls, were famous for staging
plays. Side by side with the stage halls tradition there was also a tradition of presenting
plays in the open parks and grassy plains outside the wall of the city. Such kind of drama
was popularly called Mundwa. Slowly but steadily, Lahore like Bombay had become the
centre of theatrical activities and famous companies like Albert Theatrical Company,
Globe Theatre and Punjab Reforming Theatrical Company made Lahore the centre of
their theatrical activities. Amongst the directors Master Rhamat Ali Rhamat and amongst
the actors Agha Rhamat Ali, the founder of Punjab Reforming Theatrical Company were
the most prominent who won the hearts of the Lahoris by their praiseworthy
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performances. So far as the playwrights of that time were concerned Munshi Abbas Ale,
Master Rhamat, Master Qamar Mir Ghulam Abbas, Syed Dillawar Shah, Muhammad
Ismaeel and last but not the least Hakim Ahmed Shujah had earned great fame and wrote
some immortal piece of dramatic literature for the Lahore theatre. It was Hakim Ahmed
Shuja who endeavored to reform and improve the traditional drama by introducing the
concept that theatre should be used to present plays focused upon social themes. He was
influenced by Agha Hasher Kashmeri, the Shakespeare of India. Agha Hasher Kashmeri
came to Lahore with his theatrical company called the Indian Shakespearian Company.
His plays were much appreciated by the people. He spent much of his time in Lahore and
even after his death he was buried in the famous graveyard of Lahore called Miani Sahib.
Mir Ghulam Abbas was another playwright who penned down almost fifty plays for the
stage. Those of his plays whose themes he borrowed from history and combined them
with political element were liked and became very popular. Noor-e-Jahan, Noor-i- Islam,
Shan-i-Rhamat, Punjab Mail, Mohni BA and Shahi Ferman were some of his famous
plays.
For the popularity of stage and drama in Lahore the role of Government College
Lahore can neither be underestimated nor overlooked. Theatre declined in Lahore when
in 1935 and 36 film began to attract the Lahoris. Those who were associated with the
theatre in various capacities later on joined the art of film making. Like the theatrical
companies, film companies were also formed. One of the famous film companies
Puncholi Art Pictures was owned by Dil Suck Puncholi, who was also known for not only
his understanding of the film art but also upright character. On the proposals and requests
of his friends he tried to revive Lahori theatre but his efforts could not bear fruit as it was
For the promotion of drama in Lahore the educational institutions of the city played a
major and momentous role. Government College Lahore was famous for presenting
popular English plays as well as Urdu plays of illustrious playwrights. The Lahorites
spent their evenings watching stage plays in the college and in terms of literary and
academic activities Government College Lahore saw its heydays when Professor Sondhi
was the principal who was the inspirational and motivating force behind the dramatic
production in the college. Professor Sondhi proposed for the construction of an open air
theatre in Lahore. Open air theatre in the Lawrence Garden now called Bagh- e- Jinnah is
his lasting contribution for the promotion and development of stage drama in Lahore.
Hakim Ahmad Shujah, Professor Ahmed Shah Bokhari and their team were selflessly and
artistically busy in promoting stage drama in Lahore. They were also associated with
Government College Lahore along with such literary stalwarts as Professor Ghulam
Mustifa Tabassum and Rafi Pirzada. They translated some of the famous Russian and
Western plays into Urdu and staged them for the entertainment of the Lahorities. Dial
Singh College Lahore and Kind Edward Medical College Lahore also rendered yeomen
services in promoting drama in Lahore. One should also mention the name of Professor
Khadam Muhuddin who, in the field of direction and dramaturgy broke new ground. He
was associated with Dial Singh College Lahore and was a motivating force behind all the
stage activities in the college. After 1940 when the political scenario intensified, the
theatrical activities in Lahore began to decline. And as the year of partition of India came
closer and Lahore was fast becoming politically agitated, the literary, cultural and
theatrical activities mellowed down. After 1947 when Lahore became the provincial
headquarter of the Punjab, slowly but steadily, the city once again emerged as a centre of
art and literature. Theatre was revived, Radio and Film were reinvigorated. Lahore Radio
was fortunate enough to have the services of those artists who once had proved their skill
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and potential on the stage of Government College Lahore. Agha Bashir was the in-charge
of the radio drama at Lahore Radio Station. He had hired the services of such distinctive
writers as Syed Imtiaz Ali Taj, Rafi Pirzada, Syed Abid Ali Adid and Ashfaq Ahmed.
These were the men who initiated radio drama and took the radio dramatic art to
perfection. Radio had great appeal for the masses and took entertainment to the remotest
villages of the Punjab and its programmes were listened to with great interest all over the
country. Recalling the days gone by A.Hameed, a mahajir from Amritsar, states:
The old Lahore radio station no longer exists, but it exists for those of us
who spent our early youth in its studios and corridors. It lay in an old
place it was those who wrote for it or appeared in its programmes included
such literary greats as Imtiaz Ali Taj, Abid Ali Abid, Rafi Pir, Hafiz
Jullandhri and Tajwar Najibabdi. And what an array of artists the Lahore
station had: Mohni Hamid, known, known to all children of the days as
Apa Shamim, Sultan Khost, Mirza Sultan Baig and Salim Tahir. And then
All the programmes were broadcasted live. The Lahore Radio not only popularized drama
but also presented programmes for children, farmers and for the poor and the down
trodden. For these people radio was the only entertainment after a day’s hard work.
Almost all the renowned singers, both male and female, sang folk songs, ghazals and
classical songs for the entertainment of the masses. And in the early days of the partition,
till TV arrived, it was radio which kept the Lahorites abreast of the latest happenings both
in the world and in Pakistan. It was undeniably the greatest source of news. If the Lahore
theatre was a source of recreation for the educated and the elite, the Lahore Radio was the
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source of entertainment for the poor. It, therefore, had a large appeal and reached a large
number of listeners and audience. Along with theatre, film and later on TV, The Lahore
Radio had created a specific culture of not only entertainment and recreation but also of
learning and knowledge. Pakistan Art Council was set up in 1950. Agha Bashir Ahmed,
Faiz Ahmed Faiz, Syed Imtiaz Ali Taj were amongst its founding members. Lahore being
a city of culture and art was in the forefront of arranging literary discussions and holding
functions which were attended by the literati of Lahore. Syed Imtiaz Ali Taj, Khalil
Sahafi and Skaukat Thanvi redoubled their efforts of reviving the theatre in Lahore. For
this purpose they also endeavored to restore the old theatres in Lahore which had been
damaged as a result of riots in the partition days. After 1947 the stage drama in Lahore
began to choose themes from Islamic history. Nafees Khalil formed a new theatrical
group which staged a drama called Buth Shikin whose cast included some new faces like
Subiha Khanam, who became very famous as a film star later on. A distinctive feature of
stage drama in Lahore in the 1950s was the enthusiasm and verve of the artists, the radio
artists, the film artists and the theatre artists all combined their efforts to produce quality
drama for the Lahorities. In the 1950s stage drama in Lahore had become so popular that
the employees of Pakistan Railway and the Government Press had formed their own
theatrical groups and began to stage plays, both original and translated. But it was
Alhamra Art Council which made its mark by staging Urdu plays of illustrious
playwrights such as Syed Imtiaz Ali Taj, Ali Ahmed and Azhar Qazi. Under the dynamic
guidance and direction of Safdar Mir the Alhamra Art Council presented some of the
famous English plays which included Who Killed Me and Mid Summer Night’s Dream.
Amongst the artists associated with this group mention may be made of Safdar Mir,
Yasmin, Imtiaz Ali Taj, Sikandar Shahin, Khurshid Shahid, Khalid Butt, and Naeem
Tahir. They had already made their name in the world of drama when they were
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associated with the dramatic group of Government College Lahore. In the 1950s the
tradition of presenting drama in Lahore had reached its panicle height. The Lahoris felt
that the stage hall facilities were inadequate and insufficient which hampered the
flourishing of stage drama in Lahore. In addition to theatres and stage halls there were
temporary platforms erected at open spaces around the walled city. On the eve of various
Urs of saints and Eid celebrations the dramatic performances were given in the tents of
Data Sahib. The plays staged were based on love legends such as Heer
regaled by performances of old actors who had worked with Agha Hashr.
Women’s role were sometimes played by boys, but quite often by women.
Such performances were keenly watched by the less educated and the groundlings. This
was a parallel theatre to the one for the elite and the educated class of refinement and
sophistication. During the performance the audience would freely pass comments on the
actors and sometimes would go on the stage to be co-stars with the artists. Some
audience over a very petty issue. It was an entertainment both, cheep and popular.
Lahore along with Bombay and Calcutta can rightfully claim to be the ancient centre
of film making. Even in the pre-partition days the city was fortunate to have the services
of creative and imaginative men with undying passion for acting and film making. Lahore
never lagged behind Calcutta and Bombay, its rival film centres, in dedicated and
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committed men who made Lahore a flourishing film centre. The history of film making in
Lahore dates back to 1924 when a young Lahori called A.R.Kardar and M.Ismaeel
decided to try their luck in the filmi world. They went to Bombay but as the ill luck
would have, they did not succeed and came back to Lahore. It was A.R.Kardar who set up
his film company in Lahore. Those were the days of silent movies and most of the films
were made in the open as during those days out door shooting was convenient and cheep.
Lahore had its first open studio in 1925 built in front of the famous Bread Law Hall on
Retigon Road. This studio made its first movie under the banner of Premum Film Co and
the name of the movie was “Daughters of Today”. M. Ismaeel and Vijay Kummar were in
the leading roles who won great fame later on in Lahore film industry. Encouraged by the
success of films, A.R. Kardar in collaboration with Hakim Om Parshad set up a new
studio called Punjab Film Company and began to make movies under the banner of
Player Phototone. He established another studio just behind the Regent cinema on the
MacLoad Road. He made “Heer Ranjah” and “Gopi Chand”, talkies in 1935. In 1931
“Alam Ara” was the first talkie in the Sub-continent. His efforts bore fruit and soon
Lahore became a big centre of film making. But in the riots of 1947 the studios of Lahore
also suffered great damage. Some of them were burnt to ashes and were beyond repair
and restoration.
After 1947, Lahore had been chosen to be the centre of film making in the nascent
country, Pakistan but film making in Lahore was an uphill task as there was not a single
studio which had not been damaged in the riots. Moreover, there were very few skilled
and competent technicians, cameramen, makeup men, sound recorder and hardly any
cine- laboratories to facilitate the making of films. Although, on the eve of the creation of
Pakistan, film directors like Shaukat Hussain Rizvi, Subtain Fazli. Nazir and W.Z.
Ahmad and artists like Noor Jhan, Soran Lata, Nainna, M.Ismaeel and Alouddin and
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music directors like Ghulam Haidar, Rafique Ghaznivi and Feroze Nizami were people
inspired and infused with missionary zest and zeal, yet there was little support which they
could hope to get from the government. Banking upon his own resources, Director and
producer Nazir made his first film called “Pharay” which was a great hit and paved the
way for further film making in Lahore. In the meantime Shaukat Hussain Rizvi and his
wife Noor Jahan were allotted the old film studio Showray which was later on named
Shah Noor Studio. Their film “Chanway” was also a great hit. W.Z.Ahmed, who had
been allotted Pancholi Studio on the Upper Mall, Munshi Dil, Sabtan Fazli and Anwar
Kamal Pasha worked day in and day out to make the Lahore film industry on its feet.
“These people were not really commercial-minded in their approach, always being
conscious of being artists. There wasn’t much money around then anyway, nor were the
artists given to greed” (12). It was during the Ayub era that film industry in Lahore made
considerable progress. New studios and cinema halls in Lahore were built and Urdu and
Punjabi films in large numbers were produced every year. Consequently, film making had
become a profitable and flourishing business which not only created a rarefied
atmosphere of art and culture but also became a major source of entertainment. 1950s and
60s were the decades of the flourishing of film making as the Ayub regime was also
supportive of this art. The political situation of the country began to deteriorate towards
the end of the decade of 1960. Resultantly, film art like theatre suffered precipice decline.
It was in the year of 1964 that PTV began to broadcast its programmes in Pakistan.
Lahore was the first centre chosen for its installation and broadcasting programmes of
on a variety of social and related issues, plays and other programmes of entertainment.
PTV initiated and introduced the concept of TV drama in Pakistan. A large number of
artists previously associated with theatre joined TV and made lasting contribution to its
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brought a revolution in the field of culture. It broadened the outlook of the Lahorites on
so many national and international issues on the one hand, and on the other, provided
them with healthy and positive entertainment. PTV continued its efforts of presenting
quality programmes on cultural, social and other related issues in the 1970s. TV drama
particularly progressed by leaps and bounds and was very popular amongst the masses. Its
decay set in when Zial-ul-Haq toppled Bhutto’s government on 4th April1977. Under
Zial-ul-Haq, first as the Chief Martial Law Administrator and later on as the President of
Pakistan till his accidental death in the fall of 1988, Lahore witnessed a new kind of
amorphousness, an amalgamation of the opposites, the military, the Islamist and the
democratic forces and elements which thoroughly and profoundly influenced the Lahori
life. This new kind of experiment rather confused the people of Pakistan in general and
the Lahoris in particular. The Islamist forces backed and supported by the military forces
remained dominant throughout Zia’s era. Consequently, the liberal and the democratic
forces had to sit in the back seat. The clash and the clint of these contradictory forces had
penetrated deeper into the fabric and the marrow of the Lahori society whose
American Brat (1993) Suleri’s Meatless Days (1989) and Hamid’s Moth Smoke (2000)
have been analyzed to capture the amorphousness of Lahore in Zia’s era and the era of his
successors up to the year 2000. In Zia’s time, of the elements, forces and concepts which
weave a pattern of amorphousness, politics, religion and military jingoism were most
dominant.
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CHAPTER FOUR
…………………………………….
With Zia in power the minorities and marginal groups in Pakistan felt threatened as
religious elements under the umbrella of military regime began to dominate politics and
power in the country. The minorities expressed their concerns rather mutely regarding
their survival in a society which had embarked upon a programme of islamization. They
voiced their concerns through their writings. Religion had become the most dominant
force shaping popular thing, politics, culture and other social activities. Sidhwa’s An
American Brat (1993) has been written in this context. The novel is focused upon the
concerns of a Parsee family housed in Lahore in 1980s. Although, the focus of the writer
falls on the Parsee community, upset and disturbed by the change in the regime, yet the
novel very vividly captures the religious, political, social and cultural changes rapidly
affecting the life of the Lahoris. There was a chain of events which caused many concerns
for the Parsee community and awaken them to reflect upon the future of their younger
generation which was being increasingly affected by the changes in the Pakistani society.
The Parsee Parents stood shocked and shaken, whereas their children slipped away from
Sidhwa’s An American Brat deals with the apprehensions and worries of one such
Parsee family. Zareen Ginwalla, a Parsee mother of a young Parsee daughter, Feroza is
extremely upset by the change in the political scenario of Pakistan as she discovers to her
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horror that Feroza has proved herself weak and vulnerable to the new influences and
trends generated by the policies of the new regime with emphasis on Islamization. Zareen
decides to rescue her daughter from what she considers a conservative and backward
society and sends her away to America, a land of dreams, freedom and liberty for a
breather as the mother “wish to protect her from the conservative influence of the Islamic
fundamentalism sweeping the country during the military dictatorship of General Zia-ul-
On April 4th 1977 General Muhammad Zia-ul-Haq, the then Chief of the Pakistan
Army removed Z. A. Bhutto, the Prime Minister of Pakistan from power and imposed
The coup was a white-glove affair. There was no aggressive action against
Bhutto or any of his colleagues on the day the soldiers again took up the
country’s political reins. Bhutto was treated gingerly and with respect, and
led to believe that his ouster was more a suspension than a termination.
(Ziring 423)
But soon both the leaders found themselves locked in a mortal struggle for survival. The
death of the one means the survival of the other. Z.A.Bhutto was again arrested, this time
on the charge of murder of his political opponent, a charge which he had vehemently
denied: “The case was decided in March 1978. He was found guilty and sentenced to
death” (437). With the military in power there came a dramatically visible transformation
in the culture of the country. Liberal and democratic culture with its emphasis on
openness and westernized behavior and thinking, began to give way to a more inflexible,
intolerant and orthodox outlook and behavior. The dividing lines and the cracks in the
Pakistani society were just beginning to manifest themselves. The ascendancy of the
orthodox forces to power further generated doubts and misgivings in the minorities in
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Pakistan. Like other minorities, the Parsees under the military regime felt a great sense of
insecurity as the new regime was fast heading towards the pursuit of a determined
programme of islamization of Pakistan. The Parsee youth began to betray the impact of
the policies of the new military rule. They were becoming more introverts, less open and
more conservatives. The Parsee girls in particular had become more shy and lost interest
in outdoor activities. Consequently, the Parsee mothers looked worried, upset by the new
trends and tendencies of their daughters. One such concern is reflected by Zareen
Ginwalla, the mother of a young Parsee girl Feroza in An American Brat: “I am really
worried about Feroza” (Sidhwa 9). And the thing which really shocked and appalled her
was the retreat of her daughter towards what she calls a backward behavior, which was
not only unacceptable, unwarranted but also uncalled for. Feroza had been infected by the
new surrounding, the new culture with its emphasis on simplicity, austerity, “Really, this
narrow-minded attitude touted by General Zia is infecting her, too” (10). General Zia like
a school master whom the pupils feared more than they loved and admired, was
delivering lectures on his brand of Islam to the people of Pakistan. Consequently, the
feelings of isolation from the mainstream of culture were increasingly creeping into the
minorities. They felt a kind of compulsion to follow the cultural course which they
considered was contrary to their cultural pattern, they have followed for centuries.The
apprehension that soon they would lose their cultural identity and submerge into an alien
culture brought them together to reflect on how to safeguard and protect their cultural and
religious identity: “What I could do in’59 and’60, my daughter can’t do in 1978?” (11).
Zareen also realized that Zia’s regime had put the brakes on the very progress they were
making and the whole society had been pulled back: “Could you imagine Feroza cycling
to school now? She would be a freak! Those goondas would make vulgar noises and
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bump into her, and the mullahs would tell her to cover her head. Instead of moving
Lahore in the 1980s was politically agitated. Z.A.Bhutto was behind the bars on a
murder charge of his political opponent. The news of his trial had created great interest
amongst the people, both his supporters and opponents. Z.A. Butto has remained an
enigma, a mystery. His rise to power was as spectacular as was his downfall. Emma
Duncan in her book Breaking The Curfew while commenting on the rivalry between the
Pir Sahib and Bhutto mentions the beginning of his political career:
He [Pir Mardan Ali Shah of Pagara Sharif] got Bhutto’s career started,
Mirza to include him in a delegation to the United Nations. But they fell
out when Bhutto came to power, according to the Pir, he telephoned his
erstwhile patron and said ‘I will now deal with you.’ The Pir was charged
with subversion and treason, and his associates were imprisoned. (234)
This was, in fact, his philosophy of success, and he followed it very regularly and
doggedly to achieve his objectives in politics. Very much like a Machiavellian character
he would use his friends, acquaintances and benefactors as a ladder to rise to power and
once in power he would not slip any opportunity to deceive them or turn a blind eye to
them. His opponents and even his benefactors were not only tortured but also put behind
the bars on false charges. His closest political colleagues and cabinet ministers could not
protect themselves from his wrath. Consequently, he had annoyed so many people,
politicians, civil servants, men in the judiciary, administration and the Pakistan Army.
These were the people who mattered, whose decisions carried weight:
The lawyer Feroza had always known as Uncle Anwar, tall, long faced,
bespectacled, the pace of the tic in his left eye betraying his emotion,
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shouted, “So what? Don’t you know the bastard had drawn up a hit list, I
was on it! You’ll be surprised at those who were on it: many of them our
friends. I’ll see to it the bastard’s hanged.” He was the chief prosecuting
Lahore has always been in the forefront of every political movement before and after
the creation of Pakistan. The city has not only witnessed some momentous political
upheavals but also lead them to final conclusions. A distinctive feature of the Lahori
culture and attitude is that the people known as zandha-delan- e- Lahore, enthusiastically
participate in political meetings and even their ordinary discussions are colored with
politics. Lahore has staged so many huge public meetings at such places, as the Mochi
Darwaza, a green area surrounding the famous Mochi Gate, Minto Park, now known as
the Minar-e- Pakistan Park, the same spot where in 1940 in an historic meeting of the All
India Muslim League Lahore Resolution was passed which lead to the creation of
amalgamation of politics with religion and martial law created a unique culture which had
influenced every aspect of the people of Pakistan. Confused and bewildered, they noticed
that simultaneously their country was being run by three kinds of laws, the martial law,
the state law and the Islamic law. Consequently, the Lahoris and particularly the
minorities were much vocal in their political discussions and conversations. Even in the
social gatherings at their residents it was politics which they discussed so passionately
Their guests wrangled about Bhutto’s deeds and misdeeds during his prime
which way the verdict in the Bhutto trial for the murder of a political rival
the trial progressed. Every so often one of the guests would bang on the
table and loudly proclaim, “I’ll never eat in this house again!” and
The political scenario of that time, in fact, saw a chasm on political grounds between the
members of the same family, the husband supporting the government and the wife
Your Bhutto also let us down, asking the army to control law and order!
Didn’t he know he was inviting martial law? Nationalizing even the cotton
gims, ruining the economy… And the idiot prohibited drinking in clubs!”
discussions with Cyrus took this turn. “What do you mean my Bhutto; he
was as much yours then! He was forced to by the fundos,” Zareen retorted.
“You know what he said when they accused him of drinking: ‘Yes, I
drink! Yes, I drink whiskey: not the blood of the poor people!’ “Zareen
That led to more national soul-searching than any policy initiated since the
Pakistan was created for: What is the sense in having an Islamic country
The process of Islamization would include the establishment of Shariat benches in the
high courts later replaced with a Federal Shariat court, to see that no law should be passed
Council and the Islamic University were also set up to enhance the process of
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Islamization. The issuance of presidential ordinance to implement the laws of zakat and
usher and the break for prayer in the office timing and Hudood ordinance, all were aimed
obliged the religious leaders to power and prestige. Religious madrassas were established
in every nook and corner of the country and the curriculum in schools and colleges was
also Islamized and so was the the city of Lahore. Lahore changed its landscape and
colour. Although, the new development schemes were followed immediately after the
partition in 1947, yet the pace of development picked up in the 1980 and mushroom
growth of housing schemes took place. The Lahore Improvement Trust established in
1936 had been given the responsibility of reconstruction of riot-destroyed Lahore and
laying out new residential and housing schemes. It took to its task of restoration of old
and dilliptated buildings with professional commitment and devotion and at the same time
chalked out a thorough plan of building new colonies in Lahore. “The Gulberg,
Samnabad, and Shad Bagh schemes were the most important developments. The Gulberg
scheme, at a projected cost of Rs 3 crores, in 1952 created a new area of 2,900 acres
around the existing Gulberg Colony in the South-east of the city near to the cantonment”
(Talbot 117). Gulberg and the cantonment areas were soon occupied by the upper and
rich class of Lahore. It also gradually became the centre of commercial activities and
some of the modern markets and commercial plazas were also built there. There were
other schemes for the middle class and lower middle class of Lahore. The Samnabad
The Samnabad scheme was started in 1950 when initially covered just
over 200acres on the south-western side of the city in the area lying
between Miani Sahib and Pakki Thatti. It covered an area that despite its
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ponds which had become thew abode of waste tips and stray dogs. (117)
For the lower middle class Lahore Improvement Trust initiated a couple of other
10 marlas in size, with the largest number (198) set aside at the latter size
(2,250 sq. ft.). At the time partition, only Blocks A and D of the seven
five- marla design. Work continued on the other blocks using material
There were other Housing Schemes to accommodate the refugees in the Misri Shah and
Shad Bagh areas. In addition to such Housing Schemes, there were some private projects,
housing towns and societies, some were planned and some were not, the cultural map of
Lahore began to change. In the posh areas like Gulberg, the extension of Gulberg,
GulbergII, Gulberg III etc, etc, Model Town, various new blocks were added to the
already existed locality, and Cantonment, and then the Defense Housing Agency with its
several phases there emerged a new culture of Lahore. A new affluence class began to
dominate the political and cultural scene of Lahore. The middle class and particularly the
more influential. The Zia regime also experimented with the political and electoral system
and procedure of the country. It decided to hold elections on non-political basis. This
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weakened the political parties and encouraged the braderi affiliations. The traders also
entered into politics, won elections and sat in the assemblies to protect and safeguard their
vested interests. Consequently, the country witnessed the rise of business activity as the
factories and other productive institutions nationalized by the Bhutto’s regime were given
back to their owners and such policies were adopted as to promote private entrepreneur.
Business began to thrive, religion was promoted and with it the religious community put
its foot down and lent full support to Zia-ul-Haq. The new designs in architecture were
followed and in new localities some palatial houses stood up, the roads were smooth and
spacey, the markets and shopping centres were stocked with foreign goods. The religious
scholars patronized by the rich class and by the government as well, set up their madrasas
and mosques in such localities. The exodus of the influential religious scholars from the
walled city and old localities of Lahore to the posh areas of big businessmen and high
establish their credentials before they move to a more lucrative area of the city. With
emphasis on the Islamization process the importance of the religious parties, the mullahs
and mosques had increased manifold. The new mosques built in such areas had all the
facilities, they were air-conditioned, fully carpeted and had room heaters in winter. The
huge minarets fitted with latest stereo system, and bulb like domes of white and green
realized that The rket mosque’s stereo system was being tested. The air
was blasted ba gh. And when the assistant maulvi cleared his throat in a
The speakers of the mosques were also used for some social and humanitarian purposes
and announcements. The maulvis even enjoyed this power over the public. The very idea
that they could open the speakers of the mosque any time to address the people
irrespective of the fact that their piercing voice would disturb the old, the sick etc, etc,
The maulvi made a few announcements that rent the peaceful afternoon,
“A girl, age five, who answers to the name of Shameem, is missing. She is
wearing a red cardigan and gold earnings…A boy, age three, who answers
knickers…,” and then the Main market maulvi proceeded to shred the
On Fridays and other religious festivals, the maulvi along with his army of disciples
would engage themselves with religious songs, and some prepared lectures on important
religious topics. Such programmes would start in the afternoon and would continue till
late at night. At times the lecture of the maulvi would touch a controversial topic amongst
the Muslim sects which would result in Shia Sunni riots, aggravating the law and order
situation. When such an explosive situation is developed the government has to put ban
on the use of stereo system and the speakers of the mosques keep them quite except for
the azaan:
The guests gathered on the Ginwalla lawn all had their own street- corner
mosques with their own resident maulvis and stereo systems, but they had
uninhabited disregard for the esthetics of a tune. The assault on their ear
was intolerable. They could hardly hear themselves speak. Since it was
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Friday, the head maulvi, his invited cronies, and sundry bearded
afternoon. (45)
The people gathered at the party to see Feroza off “to the land of glossy magazines, of
“Bewitched” and “Star Trek,” of rock stars and jeans…” (27) were acquainted with the
power of the maulvis over the public in their respective localities, yet the power of the
latest stereo system installed in the mosque in the Main Market was a new experience for
them. The deafening noise compelled them to take refuge inside of the Ginwalla’s
bungalow.
In the Lahore of the 1970s life was, no doubt, accelerating its speed and Tonga had
been replaced by Toyota in the posh areas as a means of transportation. So there emerged
a new city a new Lahore different in architecture, style and as more space was available
for mobility, for construction and for new ideas. With openness and space came new
concepts which revolutionized life. With the construction of big and palatial houses
occupying more space people in such localities found themselves isolated and alienated
from one anther. A considerable distance between those inhabiting the old city and those
inhabiting the new one had raised a kind of social barrier unseen yet, unsurpassable, a
kind of estrangement which had clearly divided them, limiting them to their respective
worlds. Nevertheless, they had their own means to pass their leisure time. Evening parties
in the big hotels of the city gave them ample opportunities to be entertained and relaxed.
Whereas life in the walled city, the old Lahore of the Mughals still had the same old
pattern; people were bound by the socio-cultural patterns. The society in the old Lahore
was still a close knitted society with its inhabitants sharing the joys and sorrows of one
another, very much orthodox in their attitude towards life, displaying contentment and
satisfaction with whatever they possessed, without any inordinate ambitions. They would
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celebrate the traditional festivals with tremendous zest and zeal and with great sense of
participation. The tradition of having a chit chat in the evenings sitting on the raised
platforms called tharas of their houses was still intact. The topics of gossip would include
politics, sports and other social issues of common interest. A special dish of sweet cooked
or prepared on religious or special social occasions would be shared with the neighbors
and regular visits to one another were very common. This kind of social intercourse had
given them a very strong and deep sense of solidarity and togetherness. The women
would observe purdha and seldom prefer office to home. Equipped with education, yet
the young girls would hardly dream for economic and financial independence and the
concept of a career woman had not yet stirred their imagination. Nevertheless, people still
had time for social gatherings. Such functions were and still are a means of knowing of
the latest happings in the family: “In the garden, Khutlibai was regaling relatives with the
latest family health and news bulletins” (44). The party hosted by the Ginwalls to see
their daughter off to America, though, was an exclusively Parsee show, yet there were
some Muslim friends as well. The guests were served with Murree-beer and 7 up
shandies, sherbet and other traditional drinks were no longer in vogue in such areas. It
was a new Lahore which had come into existence approximately ten kilometers away
from the old walled city. It was not the question of distance which had made a great
difference; it was rather the question of thinking and attitude that had created a chasm
between the people living in the walled city and those inhabiting modern localities. The
irony was that those who got rich left their homes in the old city and came to inhabit the
new localities of Lahore, began to adapt themselves according to the new environment
and fashions at the cost of their age old traditions and conventions in the old city. The
older generation nevertheless remained loyal with the old traditions. Resultantly, there
emerged conflicts between the old and young generation in the same house. So when
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Zareen emphasized the idea that Feroza should be sent to America, Kutlibai, Zareen’s
mother vehemently and conclusively opposed it by saying that Feroza was too young to
be there: “The there was pregnant with unspeakable knowledge of the sexual license
allowed American girls and the perils of drink and drugs. Compounding the danger were
vivid images of rapists looming in dark alleys to entice, molest and murder young girls”
(30). She further calls Zareen to question by saying that she has been guilty of neglecting
her duties as a mother. She kept herself busy with attending parties, participating in the
Who is this Bhutto to you that you get so worked up? If I hadn’t been
around, God knows who’d have taught my grand daughter to pray. You‘ve
stopped wearing your Sudra and kusti; you prefer to show your skin at the
waist. What kind of example are you setting for your child?” (31)
Those were the times when women were so much enthusiastic about their own rights and
freedom. With Bhutto in power they grew in confidence and saw an opportunity to assert
themselves in all walks of life. So Bhutto had become their hero and when he was toppled
from power they were really perturbed and took a lead in the demonstrations in his
support.
With Zia-ul-Haq riding on the crest of power and introducing the Islamic principles
and laws, the opportunities for entertainment for the public were rather diminishing
rapidly. Theatre and cinema entertainment was discouraged. Theatre and cinema artists
became jobless as film studios put down their shutters and theatres were locked. Lahore
film industry which had thrived in the 1960s and was a significant source of revenue for
the government found itself impoverished. As a result, some of the artists left Pakistan
and some were indulged in drugs trafficking and were arrested in Europe and America.
drama as a means of entertainment lost its appeal to the people of Lahore. Its quality also
declined and TV had become rather a pulpit for preaching of such an ideology and dogma
best suited to the promotion of Zia’s regime and its policies. Since Lahore was the centre
of film making and theatrical activities, it suffered the most. The liberal and enlightened
culture of theatre, film and drama declined rapidly and the discussions on literary, cultural
and political topics were discouraged. Musical and cultural programmes in the
educational institutions were banned. Art galleries of Lahore began to give a deserted
look. Religious madrasas in Lahore outnumbered the English medium schools. Islamiyat
and Pakistan Studies were introduced as new subjects in the educational institutions of
Lahore. With the rise in the culture of masjid madrasas, various religious sects began to
arm their followers with weapons. Consequently, the Lahori society become violent and
was rocked by the sporadic bomb blasts and other violent clashes amongst these religious
groups. Religious leaders were the targets of such clashes in which hundreds of innocent
citizens also lost their precious lives. Religion dominated politics and the liberal political
forces were on the retreat. Lahore, from the year 1977 to 2000 develops into a locale
where religious forces collided with political forces to gain ascendancy. It was the time
when the business community began to dominate politics to protect their vested interests.
They also challenged the political domination of the traditional landlords and feudal
Sardars. These two diametrically opposite classes and elements added a new dimension to
the social, economic, moral and political climate of Lahore. Retired military and civil
bureaucracy did not lag behind. They also tried their hands in politics and business as
they had earned lot of money, deposited in foreign banks. This new class, a unique blend
of civil and military bureaucrats, businessmen and technocrats with the moulas and the
clerics tied to its tail, served the purpose of the military regimes perfectly successfully.
They were the bulwark of such regimes which also provided them with heaven sent
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opportunity to amass money to build their business empires through illegal means using
their political clout. The emergence of so called capitalist class under the umbrella of the
ruling generals brought the decline of moral values as their capitalism did not have human
values. Lahore, therefore, from 1977 to 2000 and even beyond presents a real aspect of
amorphousness of political, social, economic, religious and moral nature. And of the
Meatless Days (1989) is a wonderful blend of public and private history recollected in
tranquility. Reminiscents and recollections of her past are quite painful. In her book Sara
evokes memories and recollections of the days spent with her parents, sisters and brothers
in Lahore. She throws light on her relationship, especially with the women who shaped
her life. While commenting on her activities at home, at her college and the Carvan
theatre, she zooms in on the kind of culture which Lahore had developed during the 1970s
and 80s, the political climate, the cultural milieu and the rapidly changing social fabric of
Lahore, the heart of Pakistan. The book can also be read as a saga of the Sularis, starting
from her Dadi’s birth, her marriage and migration to Pakistan and her father’s sojourn in
London, his marriage with a Welsh woman, he already had a wife and daughter in
Pakistan, and his enthusiasm for Pakistan, journalism and for his Welsh wife who gave
him five children. Suleri has never called Meatless Days an autobiography rather claims
‘why should a novel be less true than someone saying this is my life?’ (Interview,
December 1990 qtd. in Lee). While challenging the traditional definition of authenticity,
she claims that fiction can be equally authentic as the so-called real events in some one’s
life.
Suleri has called Meatless Days an alternative history, intertwining the private
happenings with those of the country, Pakistan. The structure of the book, therefore, is
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woven in such a way as the painful personal events follow the heels of the public events.
Suleri claims Meatless Days to be a “new kind of historical writing, whereby I give no
introductions whatsoever. I use the names, the places, but I won’t stop to describe them”
An interesting feature of the book is that the tragic events which take place in Lahore,
the locale of the book, give the city a tragic dimension. While recalling her Dadi who
loved God and food equally passionately, and “she was not among those who, on the
fourteenth of August, unfurled flags and festivities against the backdrop of people
running and cities burning. About that era she would only say, looking up sour and
cryptic over the edge of her Quran, “And I was also burned” (Suleri 2). One terrible
night, Dadi secretly entered the kitchen and while making tea for caught flames and
“went up in a little ball of fire” (10). That fire in the kitchen was less in intensity than the
one which engulfed Lahore. Lahore burned for several days on the eve of partition of the
The book Meatless Days has successfully captured the multifaceted aspect of Lahore.
The keenness and enthusiasm of the people of Lahore on the eve of such religious
festivals as Eid and the reception of the holy month of Ramadan has been described very
dexterously. The sighting of the moon of Eid and Ramadan was a special occasion for the
people. All and sundry would gather on the roofs of their houses just before the sunset
and the azan of the Mughreb prayer to locate the new moon and the sighting of it would
rake the twilight for that possible silver, and it made the city and body both shudder with
expectation to spot that little slip of a moon that signified Ramzan and made the sky
historical” (29) with great expectations of having the opportunity that the table would be
decorated with all kinds of edibles available in that season when the time of defasting
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arrives in the evening: “The food itself, designed to keep the penitent sustained from
dawn till dusk, was insistent in its richness and intensity, with bread dripping clarified
butter, and curried brains, and cumin eggs, and peculiarly potent vermicelli, soaked
The eager ears would be so tuned to listen to the call of the Muazum, so keen to relish the
taste of a heaped variety of food that some of them would get impatient. The whole city
of Lahore would assume the air of business and alacrity. “How busy Lahore would get!
Its minarets hummed, its municipalities pulled out their old air-raid sirens to make the
city noisily cognizant: the moon had been sighted, and the fast begun” (30).
The municipalities used the air-raid sirens in the war against India in 1965 and again in
1971 when the enemy war planes appeared in the sky of Lahore to intimidate the
Lahorites. The people of Lahore, on the other hand were delighted to witness dog fights
undauntedly on their roofs. But in the month of Ramadan the sirens are rung to warn the
faithfuls that the time of the beginning of fast starts and that they should stop filling their
bellies. But, it is a common sight to behold that the very sound of the sirens would
accelerate the speed of eating and the eating rituals would continue even after the sirens
have ceased sending the sound waves of warning, “She hooted when the city’s sirens
sounded to tell us that we should stop eating and that the fast had now begun: she enjoyed
a more direct relation with God than did petty municipal authorities and was fond of
declaiming what Muhammad himself had said in her defense” (30). She would take both
shelter and delight in one of prophet’s sayings and support her ferocious eating: “He
apparently told one of his contemporaries that seri did not end until a white thread of light
described the horizon and separate the landscape from the sky” (30). Dadi had her own
holy philosophy of fasting and would not allow anyone to violate its sanctity: “ In Dadi’s
book that thread could open into quite an active loom of dawning; the world made waking
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sounds, the birds and milkmen all resumed their proper functions, but Dadi’s regal
The iftar time would bring all the members of a family together, circling around the
table or the floor mat with a great variety of food placed there, all hears directed towards
the call of the Muazum, to defast with milk and dates, the traditional way of defasting:
… but then with what glad eyes we’d welcome the grilled liver and the
tang of pepper in the orange juice. We were happy to see the spinach
leaves and their fantastical shapes deftly fried in the lightest chick-pea
batter, along with the tenderness of fresh fruit, most touching to the palate.
(31)
While recollecting her memories of the holy month of Ramadan in Lahore she states a
Once, driving back from Kinnaird College to Zafar Ali Road by taxi in
truant twilight hours, what a shock I got when my taxi driver pulled over
to the side of the road and said, “Sister, let’s open our fast.” Many lurid
Here she is highlighting the culture of Lahore in the holy month of Ramadan. The people
of Lahore like other Pakistanis are so religiously eager to observe the sanctity of the holy
month that they would stop their routine work, even the traffic of the city would come to
a halt when the sirens are blown at the defasting time. An interesting feature of her
recollection of her days during the month of Ramadan is that she is able to pick up the
Lahore changes its character and mood like the change in seasons. In summer the city
can be too hot to make life miserable and the heat unbearable. June in Lahore is the
cruelest month. The streets are deserted in the afternoon and the roads without traffic. All
the living creatures are in search of shade and shelter. The mercury sometime rises up to
118 Fahrenheit degree. People would take their cots on rooftops for pleasant sleep in the
night. After the setting of the sun, as the custom was during those days, people would
sprinkle water on the roofs which were of earth to mitigate the intensity of heat. After that
activity, they would take their cots on the rooftop for a pleasant sleep and a chit chat
before going to sleep: “ Loving Shahid as , I was pleased to have him home, sleeping on
a rooftop adjacent to my room , where I could amble over for a good-night chat” (63).
Those were the days when the craze of air-conditioner had not yet emerged to trouble the
people with electricity utility bills to be submitted to the banks standing in the long
queues. And the Suleris, most surprisingly, decided to move from London to Lahore in
June. Soon they discovered the gravity of the situation and their unwise decision when
Farni, their one year old son born in England could not coop with the scorching heat and
fell sick: “The heat shriveled the baby, giving his face an expression of slow and
bewildered shock, which was compounded by the fact that for the next year there was
very little that the child could do” (28). The country on the whole, had many surprises in
store for the people. The morning newspapers were full of exciting, unexpected and
strange news items. Some of the food items would suddenly disappear from the markets
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and then reappear after a couple of days and would be sold dearly. The scarcity of the
necessities of life and edibles would result in the sharp rise of their prices and at the same
… and to some degree all of us were equally watchful for hidden trickeries
in the scheme of nourishment, for the way in witch things would always be
Adulteration of food was the commonest of all the harmless acts and the culprits would
move fearlessly with busted out tummies in the society enjoying all the social privileges
shamelessly and the buyers would not object to the poor quality the items of all kinds they
purchase:
…the milkman diluted our supply of milk with paraffin instead of water;
and those were not pistachios, at all, in a tub of Hico’s green ice cream.
Our days and our newspapers were equally full of disquieting tales about
adulterated food and the preternaturally keen eye that the nation kept on
August in Lahore is always a welcome relief from the pinching heat. In the month of
July the rains start pouring in and monsoon is at its best in August. The roads and streets
are converted into small streams and canals encouraging the poor children to enjoy their
swim. The ritual of celebrating the monsoon in Lahore reaches its climax with the
devouring of that delicious fruit called mango. Tea and pokoras are also served and taken
People could think of eating again: after the first rains, in July, they gave
children were allowed to eat their mangoes in the garden, stripped naked
and dancing about, first getting sticky with mango juice and then getting
Gol guppas are another most coveted and sought after food in the rainy season in Lahore.
The Lahorites are always in search of good and delicious gol guppas. They would roam
Gol guppas are a strange food: I have never located their equivalent to
them or their culinary situation. They are an outdoor food, a passing whim,
and no one would dream of recreating their frivolity inside of her own
kitchen. A gol guppa is small hollow oval of the lightest pastry that is
dipped into a fiery liquid sauce made of tamarind and cayenne as a joke, in
Sara presents Lahore as a stage where private and public tragedies took place
simultaneously. “I saw my mother’s grave and then came back to America…my father
called from London and mentioned that Dadi was dead. It happened in the same week that
Bhutto was finally and inevitably hanged, and our imaginations were consumed by that
public and historical dying” (17). In fact, Lahore had witnessed the rise of Bhutto to
political power and the people of Lahore rendered him unprecedented support and were
his bulwark in the arena of power and politics. The same city played a pivotal role in its
downfall. It was here at Shahdman a posh locality of Lahore, one of his political
opponents was killed. The F.I.R registered against the killers included the name of
Bhutto, the then Prime Minister of the country and the most powerful of all the rulers in
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the history of Pakistan. When General Zia toppled Bhutto’s government and put Bhutto
behind the bars, he used the same F.I.R to incriminate Bhutto with the murder of Ahmed
Raza Kasuri. So the same city which helped him rise on the crest of power and popularity
did not stage any effective political resistance to save his life. Bhutto could see an act of
betrayal in the cold attitude of the city. The Sularis faced another tragedy during those
days of political gloom and public catastrophes. Sara’s Welsh mother died in a road
accident while crossing the road in front of the University of the Punjab where she was a
By this time Bhutto was in prison and awaiting trial, and General Zia was
My mother was buried at the nerve centre of Lahore, an unruly and dusty
Misfortunes for the Suleris came in battalions. Suleri’s experience of personal pain and
agony made her see a different but true facet of Lahore, a burial place, a waste land and a
city of the dead. Three deaths within the span of three years kept the family busy with
mother and my sister. Pressed for time, I took a taxi to the Miani Sahib
moment in one of the several of Lahore’s centers. I found the thorn trees
and the dust, but once I had passed through Miani sahib’s gates, I was
surrounded by a city that I could not read. There were no sign posts and as
certain that each forking path would take me where I belonged. But the
hillocks were too similar, and I could not find the ones I wished to find.
An hour later the roses I had bought were bruised and limp, perspiring out
their shape into my hand…. “Please take me to the B block of this town,
where I am looking for two women who always gave me pleasure when
Miani Sahib is one of the oldest graveyards of Lahore. It is situated on either side of
Bahawalpur Road, which links Mozang Chungi with Multan road near Charburgi. It is a
city within a city, silent, peaceful and noiseless. Unlike the noisy city which surrounds it,
spreading around it, divided into posh and fashionable areas with all the modern facilities,
shining and glowing through neon signs and huge advertising boards, inhabited by the
paper men and the slums, a picture of misery and wretchedness, the city of tombs and
graves of old and young, men and women, rich and poor presents the other side of reality,
the unavoidable and the inevitable. The only signs are the tombstones and the only
language is the language written on the epitaphs, a reminder of death and man’s futile and
frustrated struggle to be permanent. And the rest is silence. The graves are the signs of the
fact that death levels all, the king and the beggar, the scholar and the clown.
Suleri feels frustrated and disappointed as she is unable to locate the graves of her
mother and sister, the B block of the graveyard. In her hunger perhaps she had forgotten
the fact that she was moving on a different landscape, the city of the dead, treading on
someone’s bones and bodies, moth eaten and withered, perhaps on her own mother’s or
sister’s, and that the flowers she had bought had withered away and that there were only
thorns and dry trees, ash colour, pale and pallid. And still the earth was hungry, hungry
for more dead bodies. Suddenly, the truth dawn upon her that all the graves are alike and
that offering fateha standing by any of the graves would bless all those buried in the
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graveyard. So she comes back to the world of the living, a world of paradoxes and
Lahore in the 1970s still had the impact of colonialism. Although the country had
achieved independence in 1947 the educational institutions set up during the heydays of
the British Raj, like Aitcheson College, Forman Christian College and Kinnairad College
aiming at producing a breed only Indian in color and English in mannerism, imparted
education to those who were eager to enter into the world of power and politics. Such
colonial institutions had their own culture. Very much steeped in the colonial history of
the Sub-continent; they produced young men who very proudly continued the British
legacy in various fields of life in Pakistan even after its independence. The graduates
from Government College Lahore would join the civil superior services of Pakistan to
become a cog nut in the bureaucratic machinery, set up in the days of the Raj, and those
from Aitcheson and Forman Christian College would dream of ruling this country by
joining politics. These graduates would look for their better halves in Kinnaird College
for women, “signified a magical arena containing a few hundred women of prime time
marriage ability in an architectural embrace remarkably reminiscent of the old days of the
Zenana khana , its room after room of unenterable women’s room” (47).
Kinnaird College for women is situated on the Jail Road, a road which serves a link
between the old Lahore and the fashionable areas like the Cantonment and beyond that,
the defense society of the elite class. The college was indeed on the Jail Road, so was the
daily we found it hard to believe ourselves, but it was true. All those
institutions looked identical, built out of the same colonial red brick in a
street, which the city vainly tried to rename, but jail Road—a simple and
Although, for the young men of Lahore a Kinnaird girl was the most covetous prize to
win for marriage, yet the girls within the walls of the college had different feelings. They
would feel being imprisoned and stifled in the verandas and red bricked walls and would
aspire for freedom outside the academic atmosphere. The archways, verandas and the
enclosed gardens with massive iron gates had made the institution look like another Jail
or mental asylum which was just a few yards away from the college. The incident of
elopement of a college girl with a daring young Lahori knight would soon become the
talk of the town and the other girls would envy the eloper and would dream of their own
elopement. The hostels of the college were out of bound, prohibited area for men just to
certain hair rising challenges had been met by the bravest and most
depraved of the boarders, who then had entertained all kinds of nocturnal
possibilities. (48)
So slipping away from the hostels surreptitiously tantamount to winning freedom from
the tyranny of enslavement, like a prisoner from the jail or from the mental asylum. In
1977 Bhutto was dethroned from power by general Zia-ul-Haq and was put behind the
bars awaiting trial. He was allowed to pine away in the Jail for two years before he was
ultimately hanged in 1979. The public loss intermingled with personal one:
Dadi was now dead. It happened in the same week that Bhutto finally was
hanged, and our imaginations were consumed by that public and historical
dying. Pakistan made rapid provisions not to talk about the thing that had
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been done, and somehow, accidentally, Dadi must have been mislaid into
that larger decision, because she too ceased being a mentioned thing. (17)
The people of Pakistan soon forgot this tragic and historical incident, the hanging of one
of their once most beloved and favorite leaders who had left an indelible and ineffaceable
imprint upon the history of the country, and very conveniently moved on as if nothing had
happened. How weak the memory of human beings is and how cruel history is:
“Overnight the country had grown absentminded, and patches of amnesia hung over the
hollows of the land like fog” (18). The nation suffered a great political loss when Bhutto
was hanged. The personal loss was also unending and the Suleris discovered themselves
enveloped by tragic gloom. Death was in hot pursuit of the Suleris. The death of Ifat,
Sara’s sister was too heavy a loss to bear. With her death Sara lost her contact and bond
with women in Lahore who were so important in her life in many ways. So Sulari sees
Lahore as a stage of human sufferings and agonies and ultimately a graveyard, a burial
In the 1970s Lahore was still a city of the Mughals and the British. It had yet not lost
its link with its past. The old structures with bulb like domes, minarets and Victorian
arches still had a fascination for the Lahorites and were a living testimony of its glorious
past. Although, Lahore had developed and expanded beyond recognition, yet, a part of it
retained its romance, Anarchali’s tomb, the burial place of Mughal romance. The Punjab
University, an institution of great repute in the Sub-continent with its Gothic and
Victorian design and the small domes, an excellent intermingling of all these architectural
designs is a pleasing sight. The Museum situated in front of the University, a sign of
colonial rule and the big canon in front of it, are a constant reminder of what was once
I liked the old campus of the university where my mother taught. Its crazy
thought we Indians liked was pleasing to me, with its curious lioned-
courtyards sit opposite the red museum and the court, just at the point the
Mall is about trail off toward the Ravi River, making the transition from
looking out at Kim’s Gun and the museum where Kipling’s father worked,
turning its back on the intricacies of the Anarkali bazaar, named after the
dancing girl that Jahangir is fabled to have loved. She was bricked alive
into her grave as punishment for having solicited a prince’s love, but at
least it was not a lonely grave, lying at the heart of the getting and
The city of Lahore has always attracted the travelers. The old city was built on the
bank of river Ravi just to make it invincible for the invading armies coming from the
North. Several structures were raised within the old walled city in different times of its
history. In the Mughal times the city had become a renowned centre of culture and
commerce spreading and spilling over its wall and thirteen massive gates, thus bringing a
change in its geography. Aurangzaib, the last great Mughal Emperor, constructed the
Badshi Mosque which since its construction has become a prominent feature of Lahore’s
skyline. After the creation of Pakistan in 1947, Lahore has dramatically changed into a
modern cosmopolitan city with new localities and road network leading and taking the
travelers to modern and posh areas of the city. But it still has retained some of the features
beggars in the streets like locusts—she had expected, and they did not
bother her. What puzzled her was the city’s habit of behaving like a
This is Lahore as perceived by Mustakori, a friend and college fellow of Sara Suleri,
the writer of Meatless Days. Mustakori as she was called by her friends hails from East
Africa. Before coming to Pakistan she had stayed at Dublin. In Lahore she got admission
typical post-colonial city beset with innumerable tiny annoyances and inconveniences.
Lahore appeared to her crowded with unpaved streets, undisciplined and impatient
people, chaotic traffic, encroachment, open gutters and drains, the failure of electricity
and telecommunication system and the beggars buzzing around. This did not cause any
botheration to her as the situation in her own home town in East Africa was even worse
than what she found in Lahore. “What puzzled her was the city’s habit of behaving like a
mirage, its Cheshire cat ability to disappear.” (54). While traveling to Lahore on the
Grand Trunk Road, the first image of the city which attracts the traveler, immediately
after crossing the river Ravi, is the Badshahi Mosque adjacent to the Mughal Fort. Ranjit
Singh’s tomb situated under the shadow of the overpowering and overwhelming Mughal
Fort and by the side of the grand Mughal mosque, though, a tiny and unimpressive
structure when a comparison is drawn between the its neighbouring Mughal structures,
yet it adds a new dimension to the city. In front of these structures is laid down Minto
Park, a symbol of the British Raj. In the middle of that park stands Minar-e-Pakistan, a
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country called Pakistan. So in a small space, three diverse civilizations meet to create an
amorphous city called Lahore. It is also the meeting place of the ancient and the modern,
ingredients is not possible. After this the city seems to disappear as there are no
skyrappers to distinguish and make the city prominent. Further towards the Govt. College
on the Lower Mall, the city appears again indicating the British rule with buildings such
as the Punjab University, National College of Arts, and the Museum constructed during
the British Raj. These structures reflect an intermixing of the Gothic architecture and the
Gradually after 1947, the year of Pakistan’s independence, Lahore began to change to
a new map. Life in Lahore was slowly but steadily picking up its pace and in the 1960s
and70s, it began to develop as a modern city. The new localities with modern facilities
encouraged its expansion. New roads developed and commercial plazas were constructed.
New designs of construction appealed to the imagination of the people. All this took place
about ten kilometers away from the old city which had not yet lost its lure to the visitors
and the tourists. The walled city with its winding narrow and crowded streets, the
remnants of its history and the crumbling edifices, reminiscent of a civilization once
grand and glorious, was still more fascinating than what was called modern construction
in the posh areas of Lahore. The old city, the real Lahore, casting magic and luring
foreigners, raising the anticipation of those who were just to enter the city after crossing
the river Ravi, opened its arms to extend a very warm welcome and shower love on them.
How many times have we driven down from Rawalpindi, fatigued in the
marrow of our bones, to cross the full Rivi and then the empty Ravi
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riverbed, finally to see the great luminous minarets of the mosque rising in
our vision like a gasp or a plea? Of course, nothing in the city quite lives
expecting to find Lahore without quite locating it. I used to find it perverse
myself, that aura of anticipation, until it occurred to me that the town has
built itself upon the structural disappointment at the heart of pomp and
Suleri’s disappointment, in fact, is caused by her inability to be familiar with the true
character and nature of the city of Lahore, its amorphousness. In order to understand or
locate Lahore one should be familiar with the contradictions, paradoxes, opposites,
beautiful blend of the opposites, the medieval and the modern. Modernism has even
encroached upon the ancient city situated within the thirteen gates of Lahore. New
architectural design with emphasis upon façade built on huge columns of concrete and the
use of colored glass replacing the traditional arches made of tiles of lime and mortar and
jack arched roofs has brought a significant change in the life style and popular thinking of
the Lahoris. Nevertheless, the old traditions and customs are dominant features of old
Lahore. It is in the modern and posh localities such as Defense Housing Societies,
Baharia Town Housing Societies etc etc that modern trends are dominant. Hamid’s Moth
Smoke is a realistic depiction of life in the old and the modern Lahore in the 1990s where
the opposites, the paradoxes, the similars and the dissimilars meet to weave a pattern of
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life so unique and so distinct, familiar and the at the same time so unfamiliar, strange,
Hamid’s Moth Smoke (2000) is set in the terrible times of the 1990s when Pakistan
was rocked by an unending chain of crisis, financial, political and social. It was also the
time of atomic rivalry with India, its arch enemy, which had already tested the atomic
device, establishing its supremacy in the field of lethal atomic weapons as well, a
challenge to Pakistan to test its own atomic ability. The challenge was accepted and
Pakistan also tested its nuclear device to announce to the world that it also has the nuclear
capability. The action of the novel is set in the historical city of Lahore. By choosing the
names of his main characters from the Mughal history, Darashikoh and Arungzeb,
Mohsin Hamid has traced the rivalry between these two back to the Mughal times rather
implicitly on the one hand, and on the other, hinted at a continuity between the past and
the present. Darashikoh after loosing the war of succession to his brother Aurengzeb was
arrested and like Daru of Moth Smoke left to pine away behind the bars. Lahore was the
The novel begins with an incident taken from the Mughal history. Shah Jahan, the sick
and ailing, weary and worried Mughal Emperor is laying on his death bed consults a Sufi
as to which one of his sons would inherit his Peacock throne. On receiving the prediction
that Aurangzeb would be his successor he ordered to complete his wife’s mausoleum as
quickly as possible. When he died after eight years imprisonment in the royal fort, he was
laid to rest in the same tomb. Moth Smoke, therefore, is focused upon the undercurrent
rivalry between the otherwise two friends, Darashoko and Aurengzab. Their worlds are
poles apart, though they live and move about in the same city, Lahore. The disparity
amongst the characters of the novel, the different and disparate social backgrounds and
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their worlds immediately becomes obvious when they introduce themselves through their
monologues.
The novelist has given us a graphic and panoramic picture of Lahori life in toto. There
are poor rickshaw drivers, riff raffs, tramps and drug addicts inhabiting their own
secluded world, on the one hand, and on the other, there are business tycoons, corrupt
bureaucrats, landlords, politicians and new mercantile class busy in building their palatial
houses and expanding their business empires, poverty and affluence on display in their
extremity. The novel presents Lahore of the 1990s as a place associated with all kinds of
crime; day-light robbery, murder, drugs, smuggling of narcotics, adultery etc. The image
of decadence and decline of social and moral values is the recurrent image of the book.
The Lahori society pops up a chasm and an increasingly widening gap between the rich
and the poor. The unchecked flow of the drug money and financial corruption and white
choler crime had created a filthy rich class, an opulent group of prerogatives
monopolizing and exploiting the resources of the country. There emerged a new kind of
culture popularly called the Pajero and Kalashnikov culture. The stars lit sky of Lahore
would rattle with the noise of bullets being fired on such occasions as marriage, the birth
of a male boy, just to frighten the neighbors or on such festivals as Bassant with disregard
of any damage done to the human beings. A stray bullet might find an innocent victim
standing at the roof top of his house or some pedestrian got stranded in the middle of
She may have heard the repeating coughing of a Kalashnikov being fired
into the sky. But even if she did, she probably thought nothing of it: there
might not have come from those weddings. Someone might have fired a
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promotion or the birth of a child. A young man may have fired just to fire,
or to let the neighborhood knows that his was not the house to be robbed.
(Hamid 108)
In Lahore people prefer to sleep on the roof top in summer as the nights are cooler.
They would anticipate a sound sleep in the night after an exhausting hot summer day.
Long hours of loadshadding in the night would also compel the tiring people to sleep in
the open under the stars oblivious of the fact that this might be their last nap before going
Indeed, it is possible that only the one bullet was fired that night, for only
from above, passed through the charpoy, and rolled, spent, to the edge of
the roof … She bled to death in silence over the course of some minutes,
unable to get up or to make a sound. The pool of her blood was already dry
when the lightning sky roused Darashikoh from his sleep. (108)
On the one hand, it destroyed the peace of the city and on the other it made them psychic
and neurotic. The Laborites began to have nightmares and visions: “I imagine Lahore as a
city with bullets streaking into the air, traces like fireworks, bright lines soaring into the
night, slowing, falling back on themselves, a pavilion collapsing, the last dance of a fire
before its fuel is consumed” (108). It was a common sight during those days of the black
money to see big glittering cars, like Pajeros, BMWs, Land Cruisers parked in the palatial
houses guarded by the gunmen armed with Kalashnikov and pump action guns in posh
areas like the Defense and Cantonment exclusively build for the rich and the wealthy.
Their delight was in the open display of such deadly weapons unashamedly and
unabashedly. In addition to serving their masters and safeguarding their ill gotten gains
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they would also get themselves indulged in small street crimes. Those were the days
when people were miraculously getting richer and richer within no time:
The sun sits down. Evening. I pull up to a big gate in a high wall that
surrounds what I think is Ozi’s place. His new place, that is. His old place
was smaller. I’m a little nervous because it’s been a few years, or may be
because my house is the same size it was when he left, so I swing my face
in front of the rearview and look myself in the eye. Then I honk out a pair
of security guards. “Sir?” one says. “I’ve come to meet Aurangzeb Saab.”
“Your name? “tell him Daru is here.” Access obtained, I cruise down a
driveway too short to serve as a landing strip for a gateway plane, perhaps,
and pass not one but two lovely new Pajeros. Yes, God has been kind to
The novel Moth Smoke projects Lahore as a space occupied by two diametrically
opposed groups, the rich and the poor, both occupying their respective territories. The
rich in their fortresses very well protected by barbed wire, their watch dogs and security
guards and the poor and the low middle class in the walled city and adjacent colonies and
towns. Their worlds are different worlds cut off from each other, isolated, and they
earnestly follow the policy of non-interference into each other’s affairs. Their worlds are
confined with marked manifestations of isolation and confinement. Not only the
landscape but also the skyline separates them. One can feel the change and the shift while
There are two social classes in Pakistan, “… The first group, large and
sweaty, contains those referred to as the masses. The second group is much
smaller, but its members exercise vastly greater controls over their
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control of an important resource: air- conditioning. You see, the elite have
of admission reserved), and at the end of the day go home to their air-
conditioned lounges to relax in front of their wide- screen TVs. And if they
should think about the rest of the people, the great uncooled, and become
uneasy as they lie under their blankets in the middle of the summer, there
is always prayer, five times a day, which they hope will gain them
The social and economic situation deteriorates further as the gap between the rich and
the poor kept on widening. There were no checks on the accumulation of wealth and
capital as the law was either modified or relaxed in the larger interests of the nation in
favor of the rich and the capitalists: “There are no anti-cartel or anti-monopolistic laws to
prevent the abuse of privilege. There is not the slightest pretence of giving the system the
Here in Pakistan there is free loot” (Duncan 85). And this ‘free loot’ not only brought a
fundamental and profound change in the social fabric and value system but also modified
the landscape of the Pakinistani cities. Lahore, the second largest city and the capital of
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province of the Punjab, began to expand towards its east. The residential areas, colonies,
towns encroached upon the agricultural land. Consequently, the prices of land went up
and the real estate business thrived and flourished at a speed which has never been seen
before. The map of Lahore changed and its suburbs became a part of the city. The city
took a giant leap and expanded towards Raiwind and Thokar Niaz, Beg, vast tracks of
land with a cluster of kache houses, along with the canal, a dividing line between the
crowded areas of Lahore and the more advanced and posh localities:
We head down the canal toward Thokar Niaz Beg, take a left, cruise by
what everyone calls the Arab prince’s vacation palace, wind from a side
wall that literally stretches as far as I can see into the night. Even out there
we find the obligatory group of uninvited, dateless guys trying to get in,
The looters began to build their huge mansions away from the main city, cut themselves
off from the main stream of life into seclusion and privacy, a kind of iron curtain, and set
up their own oasis. The new localities were self-sufficient small cities to cater to the
recreational spots etc were built so that the inhabitants should not exert themselves to go
to the old city. The rights of entry are reserved: “Ozi and Mumtaz show their invitation to
a private security guard, and he lets them drive through. He stops me. “Invitation?” “I am
with them,” I say. ‘Sorry, sir.” He isn’t apologizing. He’s telling me I can’t go in” (80).
Their world is the world of privacy, of high social station, of wealth and its explicit and
open display, a world raised on the foundation of black money, money earned through
mansion with marble floors and twenty-foot ceilings. Rumor has it that the owner made
his fortune as a smuggler, which is probably true but could also be social retribution for
his recent ascent to wealth” (Hamid 26). Smuggling of heroin to the West, America, and
Middle East even to Saudi Arabia had become an easy way of becoming rich: “`You
don’t need to tell me! Why, in my family… well, all Lahore knows … ` her brother, she
said, had been caught with his wife at Heathrow with some heroin. He didn’t know
anything about it, but he had taken the rap for his wife, and was still in British jail”
(Ducan 78). Some of them invested the capital earned through smuggling to raise their
business empires, at home and abroad. The number of sugar mills, textile mills and
cement factories increased manifold within a couple of years. New industrial zones
sprang up:
Half an hour outside Lahore, past the pink and mauve strip lighting round
a roadside restaurant and the single red bulb inside the wooden box of a
cigarette stall, came the stretches of white street lamps illuminating long
zone, Arif said, where you got all manner of tax breaks and incentives.
In Lahore in addition to other business activities, the business which witnessed a boom
was that of car dealing business. Lahore saw the mushroom growth of car show rooms on
such busy roads as Queen’s Road, Jail Road and Waris Road where a great number of
“Not really,” sip from a glass of whiskey and taps his shoe with a walking
stick. “There is good money to be made, and someone with your brains
could be quite an asset to a car dealer.”… “No, I’m talking about a modern
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salespeople and well-heeled clients. A place where you will have twenty-
five thousand rupees in your pocket at the end of every month. (75)
When the concept of Juma bazaars and Etwar bazaars got popular where, it was
claimed, that grocery, fruit mutton, beef, and other edibles were available on cheaper
prices or rates, the car dealers also hit upon the idea of having such bazaars where the
people could come to purchase the vehicles and four wheelers. In such car bazaars one
could even find one’s own vehicle stolen a couple of weeks ago parked outside the house
or snatched on gun point while returning from a marriage party along with one’s family.
The show rooms had to consider the financial position of their customers. So they made it
sure that all kinds of cars ranging from Suzuki 800 to Hondas, Mercedes, BMWs, Pejeros,
Land Cruisers etc, etc should be made available in accordance with the financial position
of the buyers.
In contrast with the posh areas the old city is crowded; the streets are unpaved with
open drains in the middle, the roads are narrow and broken here and there, the porters
dragging their hand driven carts and noisy vehicles plying disorderly, pedestrians walking
on the roads bumping into each other, a jungle of electricity telephone and cable wires
hanging down and the buildings in shambles. The picture in the new Lahore is different, it
has been established and set up according to the laws and principles of town planning,
and the roads are wide with trees on either side, boulevards. The new Lahore enjoys all
the facilities of a modern city, hardly any encroachment in sight, big and huge mall
plazas, civic centres, big shopping centres loaded with foreign goods, glittering big cars,
palatial houses constructed in the most modern style and design of architecture,
and specific class of businessmen, careerists, and aspiring rulers and bureaucrats. The life
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style of those inhabiting posh and modern areas like Defense is a direct contrast with
those of living in the walled city and other localities of the city. They imitate the West in
their social intercourse; the trends in fashion in the West also become a fad for the
younger generation. They swing and twist on the tunes of the Western Music, Rock
Music, Jazz, and Pop Music. Jet parties in the evening are the usual entertainment where
His party is a smashing success. The dance floor is packed, and the
the bar, fetching drinks for models with long, lean, nineties bodies. A lot
abound: this is it, this is cool, this is the very best party of the off-Season.
(82)
In contrast to this kind of life style, life in the old portions of Lahore, follows the same
old pattern of social behavior closely knitted, all the members of the family sit together
for dinner or lunch, “The family luncheons are invariably at Fatty Chacha’s place. My
house is small, but my uncle’s is smaller. He has no satellite dish, one car and three kids,
and his wife is so quite that Dadi, who lives with them, calls her daughter-in-law “the
philosopher” (54). The pace of life in such parts is rather slow and people are contented
with what they have. They are kind hearted, generous and always willing to extend help
to their needy relatives: “Do you need any money?” Tinky Phoppo’s husband asks, his
wife’s elbow pressed firmly into his side. He isn’t corrupt, so they survive on his pitiful
salary….” (55).
An interesting and a distinctive feature of the Lahoris is the range and diversity of their
topics of discussion and gossip. One would come across people belonging to all strata of
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society, poor tongawala, rekshawala, peons, professors and big businessmen, all giving
vent to their opinions on as varied and diverse issues politics, games, scandals, foreign
policy and even atomic issue concerning the world. They would express themselves as
professionals having the last word on the issue concerned or under discussion in a very
free and relaxing manner. Lunch time invariably is the appropriate time to indulge in such
discussions. The rich in their air-conditioned offices and cabins and the poor under the
shady tree or sitting on the banch of a nanwala’s or haleemwala’s shop delightfully jump
into the foray. The poor have their favorite rendezvous either in the walled city where a
great variety of food, kebbab, haleem, seripiay, pakoras, chicken and beef are available
on cheap rates or in the suburbs of the city where they live in unhygienic conditions and
little facilities of life. They also while away their time in little jokes and laugh at each
other heartily: ““Tonight we’re having a special feast. Lakshmi Chowk’s best” (134).
A free meal is a free meal… I sit down, rolling my sleeves as I grab a nan
and get to work. I’m famished, and I can hold my own when it comes to
eating, so I match Murad Badshah bite for bite, until he pats his stomach,
releases a resounding belch, and announces that he’s stuffed. A boy brings
us mixed tea, milk and sugar already present in generous quantities, and
Murad Badshah takes a dainty sip, the small finger of his left hand
India had exploded and tested the atomic device in the fall of 1998 and with the
passage of time the pressure mounted on Pakistan for a befitting reply. Since the rivalry
with India has always been an emotional issue, the tension was high and the atmosphere
highly charged. Lahore being a border city and during the days of partition it had also
witnessed the most heinous crimes, mayhem, the Lahoris, therefore, were eager and
251
situation and in the heat of the nuclear issue they had put behind the large scale disaster
and destruction of all kinds of life which a nuclear war could cause. They were oblivious
of the consequences and the response of the world to such an action, particularly the
Americans and their coteries who were determined to stop Pakistan from going nuclear at
all costs. Pakistan ultimately, tested their nuclear device and resultantly has to bear the
brunt of world pressure. Its economy which was already in shambles showed cracks and
the total collapse of economy was imminent. Murad badshaha hits at such eventuality:
“Murad Badshaha farts loudly. “There. Shaking. Dust. Was that too good as well?”10
Sindhi cap pinches his nostrils shut. “That was a bad one, Murad bhai.” “My bad one
won’t double the price of petrol. It won’t send tomatoes to a hundred rupees a kilo. But
our bloody nuclear fart will” (134). Murad gives the whole nuclear situation a comic and
bizarre touch. But their conversation on the nuclear issue and the justification for having
The Christians have a bomb. The Jews have a bomb. The Hindus have a
continues the Sindhi cap. “Everyone has a bomb. And now the Muslims
have a bomb. Why should we be the only ones without it?” “ And when
prices go up, and schools shut down, and hospitals run out of medicine,
then?” “Then we’ll work twice as hard and eat half as much.” “We’ll eat
grass,” says sweaty nose, quoting from one of the Prime Minister’s
speeches.” (134)
Murad Badsha foretells a bleak picture of the aftermath of the atomic explosion which
took place on 28th May 1998 in the Mountains of Chaghi in the province of Baluchistan.
It affected the economy of Pakistan and the Government had to take strict measures to
252
control the economic situation from its total collapse: “Nothing. My job hunt isn’t going
particularly well. It isn’t going at all, actually. The economy is completely dead right
now, with the rupee skyrocketing on the black market and bank accounts frozen” (166).
Lahore had become an atomic city, being one of the major cities of Pakistan; it had
always been vulnerable to an Indian attack: “You know the first place they’d nuke is
Lahore.” “Islamabad.” “No, Lahore. If they nuked Islamabad, no one would be able to
stop it.” “Stop what?” Us. From nuking them.” “We’ll nuke them if they if they nuke
Lahore.” “No, we’ll nuke them before they nuke Lahore” (88). So a new dimension had
been added to the culture and idiom of Lahore. The people of Lahore added to their
vocabulary a new set of words and their language developed to incorporaye new words.
They began to express their daily experience through an intermingling of words drawn
from the field of science and technology and from their own colloquial usage. The
Lahoris gave a new turn and twist to their language to invent and accommodate new
‘atomic vocabulary’. Such words as ‘atom’, ‘atomic energy’, ‘atomic war’, ‘atom bomb’
etc were frequently used even by the illiterate, the workers, the tongawalas, the
reckshawalas and even the beggars rather delightfully. Some of the signboards and the
neon signs would glow and glitter with pictures and signs of missiles and bombs and jet
fighters. On a vacant plot, in front of the Lahore Railway Station a replica of the Chaghi
Mountains and a missile was erected to commemorate the historic event. To them it was
an emblem of a new age, a watershed, in their history. It signified the dawn of a new era,
an era of power and progress, equality with other nations and the end of fear and
apprehension that India could eliminate Lahore without being decimated itself. The whole
city assumed an air of confidence and even arrogance. So great was their enthusiasm that
the Lahoris had gone to the length of attacking India, their arch enemy, to settle the old
253
scores. They were so much fascinated by the explosion and the ‘mushroom cloud’ that
The 1990s witnessed a mushroom growth of Internet café; the fad of computer gave
rise to a new kind of culture. Lahore, true to its tradition of adaptability of new trends and
fads, immediately accepted the computer culture. In every nock and corner of the Lahori
streets and roads, there emerged a new kind of cafes, called Internet Cafes, where in the
small cabins exclusively built for privacy, clients ranging from school boys to
unemployed literate youth clung to the computers to use and enjoy it to their specific
purposes. From TV and dish antenna culture to computer and chatting culture, the verve
speedy. This gave birth to chatting culture. “The address he’s given me turns out to be a
house in Shadman with two name plats: a white one above with Alam in faded black
lettering and a sleek silver rectangle below which reads CHIPKALI INTERNET
SERVICES” (92). The internet cafes in the posh commercial areas like Defense, Gulberg
and even in Shadman are fully air-conditioned with the availability of soft drinks and
snacks, cigarettes or even drugs. The light arrangement inside the café is such as one
discovers in the pubs and disco clubs in Europe and America where the clients have
access to all kinds of entertainment and even forbidden websites: “I sneak up on them and
tap Jamal on his shoulder. He turns, startled, then smiles and gets up. His partner looks
embarrassed. “What are you two doing?” I ask. “Looking at naughty pictures?” They
blush together and begin to explain: “No, Daru bahi—“We were just ---” (92). The
general impression is that it has lowered the morals of the younger generation on the one
hand and on the other lessened their interest in healthy activities like sports. It has also
caused the decline of attention to other serious hobbies like book reading, not to talk of
education in the educational institutions. The internet and computer culture added a new
254
dimension to the amorphousness of Lahore. Although, there are strong voices raised
against the internet cafes, the use of cable and dish for entertainment purposes as un-
islamic from religious quarters, yet all these facilities are available in the big religious
madarassa housed in the mosques in Lahore, a combination of the religious and the
profane.
255
CONCLUSION
My research, therefore, throws open a casement window for a wide range of audience
of scholars, historians and researchers of Lahore to discover the amorphous nature of the
city. And by doing so, it answers the central question for research raised in the very
study of the works written about Lahore along with its folklores and legends, many
aspects, characteristics and qualities of the city of Lahore have been revealed which
hitherto have remained unexplored, therefore, hidden and buried in the dust, debris and
From the etymology of its name to its geographical and physical location and from its
colonial character to its postcolonial colour, It has been discovered that Lahore as a city is
and dissimilarities, modern and ancient forces, factors and ideas which have given the
city a unique and peculiar distinction, dimension and feature which I call ‘amorphous.’
which can be identified as the hallmark of Lahore. This research would also encourage
and lead the researchers and scholars in the field of history and literature to look at
Lahore from some other angles and perspectives to see and examine its true nature and
changing character in order to highlight the hidden and unrevealed areas and aspects. The
field is open for them to see what kind of a city Lahore is and whether or not it has gone
beyond amorphousness.
256
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