1900-1920

by @reallygreatsite
TABLE OF
CONTENT
1900-1910
1914-1918
1920's
1900-1910'S
FASHION
1900'S...
In 1900 skirts were still that long that they were brushing
the floor (and with a train), including day dresses.
In 1900, the hourglass figure was in. The fashion houses in
Paris presented a new silhouette with thicker waist, flatter
bust and narrower hips. By the end of the decade, most
fashionable skirts still brushed the floor, but approached the
ankle
Fashion for women in the first decade of the twentieth
century largely followed the fashion of the previous century.
The highly structured silhouette of the Gibson Girl was still
popular at the beginning of the decade. The simplification
and loosening of dress that would come to define the
century did not begin to appear until late in the decade and
early in the next. Instead, modest dresses, bodies moulded by
corsets, and ostentatious ornamentation dominated women’s
fashion throughout the first ten years of the century.
 KEY TREDS OF 1900S
In 1900s the key trends were La Belle Époque and the Gibson Girl.

Gibson Girl. La Belle Époque

 La Belle Époque
La Belle Époque, meaning “beautiful era”, describes the European fashion
period between 1890 and the outbreak of World War I in 1914. During
thisJahnketime, the rich and privileged by birth experienced a time of extreme
well-being and comfort that allowed new fashions to flourish. The silhouette
of female fashion changed many times during the era, and fashion novelties
came and went in speedy succession.
 "Gibson Girl"
Gibson Girl look was viewed as the ideal feminine form,
featured a large bosom, tiny waist and rounded backside, all of
which were achieved with the help of swan-bill corsets. It fit in
with an almost ethereal idea of beauty, where women had long,
elegant necks; wore their hair piled invitingly high on their
heads and had a faraway, dreamy gaze.

From the "voluptuous woman" she took a large bust and hips,
but was not vulgar or lewd, as previous images of women with
large busts and hips had been depicted. From this combination
emerged the Gibson Girl, who was tall and slender, yet with
ample bosom, hips and buttocks.
 OTHER EXAMPLES...

This is what you would wear in the beach, back in This is your tennis outfit. Evening dress and evening bodices, 1907, Netherlands
1900.
 1900 - 1910
Day Dresses
The early 20th century was defined by a conservative fashion in combination with nature. Women’s fashion was
neat, covering and detailed with ruffles, buttons and lace in layers. The colors were often in sweet pastels or a
traditional set of a white blouse and a black skirt. The conservative fashion took its expression by high collars,
long sleeves and sometimes gloves. The mentioned features didn’t only contribute to a rich and detailed look but
also underlined the refined and virtuous life of a lady. The s-silhouette was somewhat promoted with the idea of
being “natural to nature”, not minding the fact that heavily tightened corsets were required to reach the ideal.
Modesty was emphasized with day dresses covering the body from the neck to the floor and long sleeves
covering the arms. Skirts were bell-shaped and lace was a popular decoration. For those who couldn’t afford
lace, Irish crochet was a good alternative . Rich fabrics were used with silk satin and chiffon two popular
choices. Colors were light, but embellished with decorations.Women often had matching hats to their dresses
and also an umbrella. The early 1900s saw a development of sports and social events such a tea parties. Social
skills for women had for long been considered as one of the most important quality a woman could possess, this
partly remained during the early years of the 1900s as the old society still ruled.
 1900 - 1910
Evening Dresses
Evening dress largely followed the same silhouette, though these gowns were more revealing with very low décolletage and
short sleeves. The sleeve length was offset by the wearing of long gloves. Milford-Cottam writes, “The cut of the bodice was
often the only way to tell an evening gown from an afternoon dress” . Where day dresses had blousy, high-collared bodices,
evening gowns had more fitted bodices with low-cut necks, like that seen in the elaborate gown from 1902 . Sleeves could
also be draped and necklines were sometimes off-the-shoulder.
Though the prevailing style favored embellished day and evening dresses, women began to focus on dressing for the
occasion. There was an increased importance placed on event-specific dressing. Wealthy women tended to have many
costumes, ranging from theatre and evening gowns to morning and afternoon dresses and practical costumes for outdoor
and sporting pursuits.
Also during this period, sports such as golf, tennis, cycling and motoring began to have influence on fashion and inspired
new styles.
Fashion began to soften as the decade progressed. The rigid S-shape popular in the early part of the decade gradually
straightened out into a more natural shape.
Jean-Philippe Worth (French, 1856–1926). Evening An evening gown, 1909. The Daily Missoulian Jean-Philippe Worth (French, 1856–1926). Dinner
dress, 1902. Silk, rhinestones, metal. (Missoula, MT), March 21, 1909. dress, ca. 1900. Silk, metal, rhinestones.

 1900 - 1910
Children's Wear
he new century did not bring drastic changes in children’s wear. Children continued to be dressed as mini-adults
with many of the styles found in menswear and womenswear making their way into children’s wear. Themes
found in fashion for both boys and girls included light colors and stiffly starched material.
For girls, light colors and lace, like in womenswear, were popular choices. Young girls wore dresses to their knees
embellished with lace on the bodice and stiffly starched material. For less formal wear, girls might wear pinafore
dresses over blouses and their clothing tended to be much simpler than their adult counterparts.
Along with the dresses, girls wore black stockings and shoes . In the winter, they might wear lace up boots. Like
women, girls wore gloves with their outfits: kidskin in the winter and crochet in the warmer months. Their hair
was decorated with ribbon.
Young boys wore shorts or knickers along with tunics or “Russian blouses” like the one in which allowed for
young boys to move freely. Like young girls, boys wore long stockings to cover up the rest of their leg. Older boys
wore suits that followed their adult counterparts. Black shoes and boots were popular for boys, as well. Just as
girls wore starched dresses, boys wore stiff Eton collars outside their jackets. Sailor suits continued to be popular
for boys, as well.
Photographer unknown. Portrait of Photographer unknown. The Maybury. Jessop Children, 1905. Photographer unknown. Edwardian
Marjory Bryson as a little girl, (almost) hidden mother, ca. 1910. Children, ca. 1900-1910.
Queensland, ca. 1905
 Overview
1900-1910 Women’s Fashion Trends:
S shape figure.
Still changing clothing several times
each day.
Feather boas.
Hats with feather and fruits.
MEN'S WEAR
 Like most of the first half of the twentieth century, men’s fashion moved much slower
than women’s. There weren’t great changes to the prevailing menswear modes, but
rather subtle changes in details and accessories. What men wore continued to be ruled
by the appropriateness for the event and men could wear suits in varying degrees of
formality.

Throughout the decade, the most formal option for men was the frock coat during the day
and tails in the evening . However, Milford-Cottam comments, “The frock coat was
beginning to be thought old-fashioned by 1901, suitable only for Sundays or the most

conservative daywear” (39). During the day, the three-piece suit dominated though colors
and materials were more varied (though not too daring). Morning dress was worn for the
most formal daytime occasions . Neckties were essential and allowed for a small pop of
color. Though soft-front shirts were introduced during this period, they would not become
widespread until the 1920s. Instead, starched shirt-fronts with high collars were worn with
the three-piece suit.

Though the suit was still the primary daywear, clothing associated with various sporting
pursuits was becoming increasingly acceptable as daywear.


“Other garments that were used for sport were cardigans for tennis, cricket,
and baseball as well as increasingly for leisure wear, and thick, woolen sweaters
seen on motorcyclists and skiers. Woolen jumpers were also popular with
fishermen – workwear being another source for fashion innovation.”
Knickerbockers and tweeds worn on the golf course were
also acceptable daywear. Milford-Cottam describes other
popular day looks that popped up at sporting events in
England:

“By 1901, men attending spectator sports in the summer

were increasingly wearing flannel and linen suits, straw
Panama or boater hats, blazers, white trousers, and, of
course, the royal-approved homburgs [a type of hat] and
tweeds.”
 Some of these looks can be seen in , while a homburg hat is featured in . Besides sporting
looks, the lounge suit was another option, with light colored suits especially popular in the
summer.

Evening wear continued to be very formal, though the tuxedo, which was seen as less
formal at the time, was becoming increasingly acceptable. While older, more conservative
men continued to wear tails, the tail-less dinner jacket of the tuxedo continued to rise in
popularity during the decade. Despite this, tailcoats were still seen as the most formal
attire. Milford-Cottam explains the evening options throughout the decade:

“Evening dress consisted of a black coat and coordinating trousers, often worn with an
expanse of crisp, starched white shirt-front and a low-cut waist-coast, which could be in
either black, matching the suit, or white to coordinate with the shirt.”

He continues to explain that the bow tie would be coordinated with the waistcoat, with
white ties and waistcoats seen as more formal.

Like womenswear, hats and gloves continued to be worn. Black shoes were the most
acceptable, though gray, brown and tan were acceptable during the day. By the end of the
decade, men’s fashion largely looked the same as it did at the beginning. Menswear would
further stall in the following decade due to the First World War.
DURING THE WAR
WOMEN'S CLOTHING
The outbreak of war changed the roles of women in society leading to the need
for a different kind of fashion.

As their men left to fight on the front, women took over their jobs in the
munitions factories, offices and farms as well as taking on work as nurses and
drivers.

Many of them even joined the militia. Fashion itself took on a more structured
military look with jobs often requiring a uniform or trousers.

Dresses were simplified and skirts shortened to make them more practical to
wear.

Jeanne Paquin, the first woman to gain international fame in the world of
fashion, created garments for the new, more active woman.

Her version of the hobble skirt (a narrow skirt that restricted a woman's stride)
included pleats for ease of movement. Her designs mixed tailoring with
feminine drapery.
The spring of 1914 brought a new fashion trend called the "war crinoline"
which featured a bell-shaped skirt and a wide over-skirt.

The season also featured sloped shoulders and wide collars, but the use of so
much fabric was soon viewed as wasteful during wartime, and critics called
for more conservative use of cloth.

When the US joined the war in 1917 more radical changes were made in
women's clothing styles.. Women dress styles were simplified to save on
quantities of textiles and certain types of fabrics.

Wool became a precious commodiity saved for soldiers uniforms and for
knitting socks and sweaters to send abroad.

The entry of the US into the conflict altered not only the materials and
styles of women's dress but the fashion colours as well. Dark, dull colours
such as khaki and black, which mimicked millitary uniforms, became very
popular.

With the elimination of wool for winter clothing a new textile was created
to substitue for it. This fabric called Serge,was manufactured "with a warp
of worsted and a woolen weft twill cloth."
Women's fashion has less ornament and detail. Pockets were stictched on
the exterior of women's skirts and jackets instead of hidden in seams.

Jackets were worn longer over the hips and looser fitting with belts
wrapped around the waist. Women's waists were no longer emphasized as
they had been with corsetted dress.

Women's skirts were shorter and showed their shoes.

It was also a practical style during World War I, as women would cut their
hair to take on military duties and Red Cross work.

When the USA entered the war and president Woodrow Wilson’s
government ordered that women should help their men on the frontline by
taking their corsets off – permanently.

Early 20th century corsets used steel staves and that was steel which would
be better served being turned into field guns and warships.
Amazingly the move saved 28,000 TONS of steel up to the end of the war –
enough for two full size American battleships.
 MEN'S WEAR
Men’s clothes adapted to the environment of war.
Constant improvements were made for the
practicality of life in the trenches.

The classic Trench coat has a long and varied

history, which all contribute to the modern take
of the trench. Originally developed even earlier
than the First World War, the trench coat was
used as an item of clothing worn Army officers. It
was adapted to be worn quite literally in the
trenches; hence where the coat gets its name. It
was during the Great War that this classic
garment took the shape and style that so many of
us still wear today. The classic style of the coat
still has these military influences.
Of all the countries, England had the most influence on
American menswear. In the 1920s American college
students began putting their own spin on pieces being worn
at the legendary Oxford University, including button-down
shirts, natural-shouldered jackets, regimental ties, and
colorful argyle socks. Furthermore, the Prince of Wales,
who later became the Duke of Windsor, was the world’s
most important and influential menswear figure. Through
newsreels, newspapers, and magazines the elegant Prince
became the first international “style icon” and became
widely known and renowned for his impeccable taste in
clothing. He was a legitimate trendsetter for every day
people and it was the first time in history that clothing
advertisers would use a celebrity face to sell clothing,
shamelessly plugging their items “as worn by the Prince”.
ROARING 20'S
 THE ROARING
20'S

1. End of World War I

2. Advancements and Developments in technology
3. Women got the right to vote
4. The Prohibition
5. Introduction of Jazz Music and Charleston
 HOUSE DRESSES
The simple 1920s house dress or “any time of day” dress was a colourful lightweight pullover frock with a
single belt and minimal trim.

Extremely loose and comfortable, it was ideal for the labor of housework or paid work in the service
and manufacturing industries.

Most women did not wear their house dresses outside of the home. They had a few other daytime dresses
that were made in nicer materials and trim that were more appropriate to be seen in.

he 1920s house dress so easy to make, women often sewed their own. Some women would up-cycle cloth
flour sacks into dresses and aprons.

For durability, house dresses were made of cotton broadcloth, cotton chambray (similar to light denim),
cotton percale (soft like bedsheets), Indian headcloth (a smooth, sturdy muslin no longer made today),
and cotton gingham (known for its check pattern).

A few dresses in summer were also made of linen. In winter, a cotton/wool jersey blend or challis was
acceptable. All wool was avoided because it retained odors from the kitchen and harsh cleaning soaps.
Gingham was the most popular print for day dresses. Plaid was the next
most popular.

Sometimes, small flowers were printed over plaids for even more “pop.”

Colours included a range of cheerful light blues, peach, sage green, rose
pink in summer and darker tones of these as well as grey, brown, and even
black in the cooler months.

The trimming on day dresses was a lot of what we might think of as craft
trim today. White piping, colourful rick rack, and contrast binding
finished sleeves, collars, pockets, and belts.

Both dress collars and pockets (if the dress even had any) were over-sized.
Large round “peter pan” collars, wide and long shawl and tuxedo collars,
and men’s suit style notch lapel collars were all seen on day dresses.

As the decade progressed, the size of collars and pockets reduced to a more
feminine and tailored look.
 MID TO LATE 1920S HOUSE AND DAY DRESSES
The early and mid ’20s, house and day dresses
remained mostly the same in style, color, and

materials.

The lines were blurring between house dress

and daytime frock. Many house dresses were as
pretty as daytime outing dresses, and daytime
dresses were as casual as simple house dresses.

By 1927, the progression away from loose and

comfortable and into straight and tailored was
in place.

The movement also reflected a shift away from

women as only homemakers to women who
worked, played, and volunteered outside of the
home.
Household chores were becoming easier thanks to modern appliances.
Women spent less time at home and more time out in public. The clothing
had to change to match the times.

Now, the simple house frock was still colourful but classier, more fitted,
more refined with narrowed belts, smaller collars, larger prints, solid
colours, and more complicated designs.

The look was one where a dress could be worn all day long regardless of
where you were.

Aprons exploded in popularity too. For most women, wearing an Anytime

of Day Dress with an apron or smock over it was enough for most
household duties.

By 1929, the wrap dress returned to start off the 1930s with a hybrid dress-
apron style to be called the Hooverette.
EVENING WEAR
The boyish shape that was so stylish during the decade for
daywear, was sought after for nighttime too, with a flattened
bust, dropped waist and a loose-fitting straight cut – perfect
for dancing.

Cocktail dresses were almost always sleeveless and daringly

short (from below the knee to mid-calf), although women
often lengthened their hems a little bit for very formal
occasions.

Popular necklines for the evening included a low square cut,

scoop or V shape.

Having your back to someone in a crowded room was no

excuse to skimp The backs of dresses were often just as
dramatic as the front, with a low-cut scoop or V shape. Shawl-
like draping was popular with low-cut backs too.
The fabric was sometimes draped and gathered in interesting
shapes at the dropped waistline (waist around the mid hip or
lower), which was also often decorated with a big sash and
bow at the front or on the side.

Even the hems of dresses were not neglected on 1920s formal

dresses. Contrasting beading or embroidery around the hem
made them something special in and of themselves.

Scalloped or uneven handkerchief hems made dresses unique

and fringe trim along the bottom gave them some swing.

The all-fringe, very short “flapper” dresses most people

identify with the 1920s were NOT worn in good company.

These dresses appeared on showgirls and other ladies of the

night in the mid 1920s. The design and the length was simply
to risqué for the average woman
Fabrics were very luxurious – velvet, silk, satin, layers of chiffon and lamé.
Gold and silver metallic were eye-catching color choices. Cream, pastels and
jewel tones were also common to see.

Really, the sky was the limit in terms of color. Even black became acceptable
(and wanted) for evening wear – before the 1920s it was only worn by ladies in
mourning.

it became an extremely popular colour for the evening and remains so to this
day. It was perfect to show off those gorgeous decorative elements and
jewellery.

Women wore layers of long necklaces over their evening dresses such as
strands of fake pearls and beads.

Motifs of gold snakes, Egyptian cats, butterflies, and dragonflies were,

especially in demand. Even beaded or feather headbands or turban hats made
it into formal wear for the first half of the decade.

The very fancy evening attire may have included a long feather boa, oversized
ostrich plume fan, or a single long feather. Feathers were a flirty accessory and
fun to tease a gentlemen caller with
 ACCESSORIES
The 1920s hat icon was the cloche. These round shaped, snug
fitting, helmet-like felt or straw hats came so far down the

forehead that visibility was only possible by lifting the chin

up so she had to look down on people. This made 1920s
women seem smug or snooty, when in reality it was just the
fashion fad.

The turban style hat was similar to the cloche. It was made of
wrapped fabric circling the head and adorned with flowers,
gems and feathers on one side. The fabric usually matched
the dress and was typically an evening hat rather than day
wear.

Hair jewellery was all the rage, particularly gold or gem tiaras
and jewelled headbands that sat across the eyebrows. Long
strands of pearls were also used to create hair jewellery.

These were strung around the head, over the top, and around
buns of hair and connected with gems, feathers or more
jewellery.
ACCESSORIES

day, but dark nude stockings made up the rest of the
Black stockings dominated the early years for during the

decade.

Rising dress lengths exposed legs, giving women an

opportunity to show off some fun style. Silk stockings came
in all sorts of geometric patterns,

If a woman was not bold enough to wear patterned

stockings, then she would wear stockings that would match
her dress.

Most dresses were pastel coloured, so stockings came in

peach, pink, light green, blue, silver and white.

If a lady was really daring, she joined the “flapper girl” style
and rolled down her stockings to just below her knees. This
was the “in” style, if she dared to defy her strict upbringing.
MEN'S WEAR
 Any discussion of 1920s men’s fashion needs to start with some cultural
context. The Roaring 20s were a time of great political, economic, and social
change in the United States. After World War I came to an end in 1918,
society started to speed up. People gained newfound freedoms, and they had
money to spend on fashion, entertainment, and household goods.

The year 1920 also marked the start of the Prohibition era and the rise of

nightclubs, speakeasies, and notorious gangsters like Al Capone. All in all,

there was a huge shift from previous decades, not just in society but in
fashion. The Roaring 20s dress brought about iconic and timeless styles,
many of which helped shape those that exist today.

 How did men’s fashion change in the 1920s?

The Roaring 20s were a time of prosperity, fun, and individual freedom for both the elite and the
working class. It also marked the rise of consumerism. Since fashion reflects the period, it’s no surprise
that men’s and women’s styles started highlighting these changes.
In the 1910s, the working class wore durable, sturdy clothes that would last a long time. Most people

opted for the clean-cut look, too.

For one thing, much of 1920s men’s fashion was influenced by the rise of gangsters. This included the
notorious Peaky Blinders, a street gang from Birmingham, England that made many iconic styles such as
three-piece suits and flat caps trendy.
 Gone were the shoulder pads and stiff fit of the previous decade. These were replaced with form-fitting
suit jackets with gently sloped shoulders and tailored suits with cuffed pants that creased in the front for a
stronger silhouette.
The 1920s were also a time for casual dress. As menswear became less regimented, leisure clothes and
sportswear made their debut.
This meant sweaters, plus-fours, and other wide or baggy pants, workwear pants, jumpers, caps, and an
array of accessories people could wear to express themselves. Sports attire in particular had to be

fashionable enough and still practical for the upper and middle classes to wear.
For the young, educated man, suit jackets and matching ties were still on trend, but they weren’t as
restrictive. More casual 1920s men’s dress also included cardigans, knitted pullovers, and ankle socks. Men
also switched over to button-down shirts with detachable collars and started wearing bow ties and a
greater assortment of hats, including fedoras.

 In terms of fabrics, the 1920s saw a slight departure from the previous decade. Clothes were
still made from natural fibers like cotton, wool, linen, and silk, but synthetic materials like
rayon also became more commonplace. At the same time, new textile production techniques
saw more medium-weight as opposed to heavy-weight clothes, a greater variety of knits, and
softer textures.
Many people consider the Roaring 20s to be the start of today’s seasonal fashion cycle. No

longer did people have to wear the same clothes for years on end. Instead, there was a
greater variety of patterns, shapes, styles, and colors than ever before. Because of this, they
could change their style as they saw fit to keep up with the latest fad.

 Misconceptions about 1920s men’s fashion

away from the traditional khaki and neutral tones of
In the United States, menswear had started to move
browns and greens to bolder hues and distinct patterns. This meant brighter suits, lighter colors, more colorful
shirts, and casual clothing options.

But not everyone spent all their free time at speakeasies or wore cocktail dresses and looser suits. Nor did

everyone have the funds for such things.

During the Roaring 20s, styles from all over the world – particularly Europe – were making their way across the
ocean. Although leisure attire gained traction, formal styles were still very much in vogue.
For example, men’s formal evening wear often included a tuxedo, top hat, and leather oxford shoes. For formal
and semi-formal settings, men would often wear tweed, herringbone, or pinstripe suits in navy blue, gray, or
brown colors. Older gentlemen in particular still preferred the classic top hat over the fedora or derby hat, too.

Men’s Clothing in the 1920s

Suits

Shirts

 Pants Waistcoats and Vests

Outerwear

 Men’s Accessories
Men’s Shoes Hats

 Watches
Pocket Squares

 Ties and Neckwear Men’s Casual Dress

Eyewear

In terms of casual wear, men started to wear more sweaters, especially on colder days. Thanks to the influence of
sports and leisure clothes, casual dress often featured knickerbockers and plus-fours, even for those who did not
play sports.
Casual shirts were typically worn unbuttoned and had brighter or striped prints. Younger adults started wearing
softer, attached collars or went for collarless garments, as in the case of the henley shirt.

Students at the University of Oxford started wearing Oxford bags, which were very wide and much baggier than
most men’s pants. Younger men also started switching to jeans, thanks to Levi Strauss & Co’s popularization of
denim.
For the most part, older gentlemen were still primarily influenced by pants from the Edwardian era (1901 to
1910). Their casual pants were fairly slim, high-waisted, straight-legged, and tapered at the bottoms.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2012 RTW

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