Myanmar Cuisine, Culture Customs by Mohana Gill

16mm
Mohana Gill
Myanmar
Mohana Gill
Cuisine , Culture & Customs
Myanmar: Cuisine, Culture & Customs

“ This timely book about Myanmar offers “…We are honoured to distribute books
an insightful and flavoursome journey into which showcase authentic Myanmar
Mohana Gill is passionate about the country the country’s cuisine, culture and customs. cuisine and culture such as this one by From the quiet simplicity of Myanmar’s rural
of her birth, and it has been her dream to Mohana is uniquely placed to uncover the Mohana so that people will understand towns to the bustle of modern day Yangon,
essence of Myanmar, the country where the wonderful culture of Myanmar.”
share the beauty of the people, the vastness she was born and where she discovered this book captures the sights, sounds and
Dr Thant Thaw Kaung
her passion for food and the enjoyment
of the land and its amazing cuisine with others. CEO, Myanmar Book Centre flavours of a country that has until recent
of sharing. I look forward to exploring this
In working on this book, Mohana travelled book and encourage you to join Mohana on years, been isolated from the rest of the world.
this delectable journey through Myanmar.”
back to the places she knew, and met up with
Art Smith Best described as a mix of Chinese and Indian
old friends, renewing bonds and rediscovering Celebrity chef and
bestselling cookbook author cuisines with a dose of Thai influence, the
all that she has always loved. She shares:
food of Myanmar is simple in its execution,
• An overview of Myanmar’s culture yet delivers a complexity of tastes with the
and customs
use of fish sauce, prawn paste, turmeric,
• Photographs taken on her journey through tamarind, lemon grass, coriander, chillies
Myanmar’s cities and villages and coconut milk. Take an insider’s tour of
• More than 70 recipes featuring the authentic Myanmar with Mohana Gill and discover
tastes and flavours of the country the heart of the country through her cuisine,
culture and customs.
Marshall Cavendish
COOKERY
Cuisine
ISBN 978-981-4516-16-7
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myanmar-cuisine,culture & customs cover.indd 1 11/11/2013 3:38 PM

Myanmar
Cuisine , Culture
& Customs
myanmar-cuisine, culture & customs p1-228.indd 1 18/11/2013 2:51 PM

Myanmar
Cuisine, Culture
& Customs
Mohana Gill

Editor: Lydia Leong Other Marshall Cavendish Offices:
Designer: Bernard Go Kwang Meng Marshall Cavendish Corporation. 99 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591-9001,
USA • Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Floor,
All photographs by Aung Kyaw Moe of New Image Professional Photography Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand • Marshall
except for pages 12–15, 74–75 by Bernard Go Kwang Meng Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park,
Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia.
Copyright © 2014 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited
Published by Marshall Cavendish Cuisine Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited
An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
All rights reserved Gill, Mohana.
Myanmar: cuisine, culture & customs / Mohana Gill. – Singapore: Marshall Cavendish
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system Cuisine, 2013.
or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of pages cm
the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the
Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, ISBN: 978-981-4516-16-7 (paperback)
1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300 Cooking, Burmese. 2. Burma–Civilization. 3. Burma–Social life and customs. I. Title.
Fax: (65) 6285 4871 E-mail: genref@sg.marshallcavendish.com
Online bookstore: http://www.marshallcavendish.com TX724.5.B93
Limits of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: The Author and Publisher of this 641.59591 – dc23 OCN7862057394
book have used their best efforts in preparing this book. The Publisher
makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this Printed in Malaysia by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd
book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book.
While the Publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not
always achieve the results desired due to variations in ingredients, cooking
temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The Publisher shall in no event
be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but
not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.

Dedication
For my mum and siblings, Geeta, Veena, Raj and Mohan.
“My mother’s best advice to me was: ‘Whatever you decide to do in life,

be sure that the joy of doing it does not depend upon the applause of others,
because in the long run we are, all of us, alone.’ ”
Ali MacGraw

Contents
Acknowledgements 8
Foreword 10
Introduction 13
Myanmar at a Glance 14
Pathein (Bassein) 20
Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo) 26
Mawlamyine (Moulmein) 34
Bagan (Pagan) 44
Inle Lake 52
Yangon (Rangoon) 60
Naypyitaw (Kyetpyay) 70
Food of Myanmar 74
Soups 76
Salads 94
Vegetables 120
Fish & Seafood 140
Rice & Noodles 154
Sweets & Desserts 176
Snacks & Finger Food 194
Relishes & Dips 202
Basic Recipes 212
Glossary 216
Weights & Measures 226
About the Author 228

Acknowledgements
“Like the wind crying endlessly through the universe, time carries
away the names and the deeds of conquerors and commoners
alike. And all that we are, all that remains, is in the memories of
those who cared we came this way for a brief moment”.
Harlan Ellison

Writing this book can best be described as a journey. ensure everything else was in order. Thanks also to Zin
I visited many places, met new people and renewed old Zin for the thanakha that she made for me every night.
friendships. It has been a happy and exciting journey, Aung Kyaw Moe was introduced to me by a good
with many contributing to the lovely experience. friend and when I first saw him, I knew that we
Without their help, this book would not be possible. would work well together. He is not only a skilled
The most important person that I have to say thanks photographer, but also one with lots of patience, taking
to is my husband, Satwant, my best friend. He has all our comments and request for reshoots in his stride.
always given me his unconditional support and this He travelled with us and despite the rain, tried to take
time, my journey was so much more enjoyable because as many photographs as he could. Thanks also to Aung
he travelled with me. I was able to show him Myanmar, Kyaw Moe’s three helpers who were not only very good
the Myanmar that I grew up in. We had a great time at what they did, but were always cheerful.
and this was because of the warm hospitality and Then came Bernard, the man from Marshall
generosity of the people in Myanmar. Special thanks Cavendish International (Asia). He was considerate,
also to Anil for editing my drafts and to Rakesh who conscientious and thorough. He worked well with
was there to point out when things were not right. Aung Kyaw Moe, providing the art direction for the
Thanks, guys. shoot. I enjoyed working with him and was happy to
In Yangon, my friend Nilar, was instrumental in see him enjoying the food. Thank you Bernard.
making all our travel arrangements. Her cheerfulness My appreciation also goes to U Thaw Kaung who
and energy are unmatched, and there is nothing Nilar agreed to write the foreword for this book. Knowing
cannot do, from booking our transport, to organising how busy you are, I am grateful that you did this for
our meals. In the mornings, she would call and brief me. To my friend, Ma Thanegi, thank you for writing
me on the lineup for the day, and at night, she would the account on me. To Dr Thant, CEO of Myanmar Book
call to make sure that I was all right. I cannot thank her Centre, thank you for sharing your thoughts on this book
enough for her affection and for going the extra mile to and for introducing me to Aung Kyaw Moe. To my dear
make sure that everything was perfect. friend in Chicago, Art Smith, thank you for always being
This book would also not have been possible supportive and encouraging. To my friend in Australia,
without the generosity of my dear friend, Rosebud. Anjali, thank you for your help and suggestions.
She opened her heart and her house to me, and made Last but not least, the rest of the team from Marshall
it possible for us to do the photo shoot at her place. Cavendish International (Asia): Lydia, for your patience
Rosebud is one of those rare gems that I have been and guidance in putting this book together, and all who
lucky enough to find. She is soft-spoken and was always supported the publication of this book.
mindful of the things that I needed. Thanks also to all in It has been a long but happy journey and I have had
Rosebud’s household. Firstly, Esther Khin Htwe Yee who great pleasure meeting and working with each of you.
ensured that all the right ingredients were available for To all those we met on our travels through Myanmar,
the shoot. She is a real estate agent, but despite her I wish you a happy journey. Chei-zu tin-bar-te.
busy schedule, found time to organise things for me. Finally, to my cat, Domee, who sat with me in my
Secondly, her helpers, Naw Kuu Ma, a wonderful cook, office every night while I was working. Thank you for the
and Naw Cherry Phaw and Nant Zin Zin Oo, who helped company, Domee.

Foreword

Myanmar cuisine is not as well known in the world as Thai or Japanese cuisines and it is
still well behind the cuisines of India and China, the two most populous nations on earth,
which wedge Myanmar between their vast land masses. The people, the culture and of
course the food of Myanmar have some similarities to those of India and China, but at
the same time, there is a distinct uniqueness all her own.
Myanmar food with its special flavours needs to be better known. There are many
cookbooks in Myanmar language as well as in English, and the book you are about to
peruse is not a mere cookbook even though it has more than 70 recipes clearly written
and illustrated with beautiful photographs. The book is much more; it is a personal,
nostalgic journey back to Myanmar by the well-known writer Mohana Gill, who grew up
in what was then Burma. She revisits the place where she was born in Pathein (formerly
Bassein) on the Ayeyarwady Delta, to the former capital and still the commercial hub
Yangon (formerly Rangoon), the new capital Naypyitaw and the cool hillside resort of
Pyin U Lwin (formerly Maymyo), first developed by the British during the colonial period;
this was her father’s home town.
Mohana Gill has given us a good introduction to the people of Myanmar, with their
friendly charm, hospitality and cheerful, tolerant nature. As a writer based in Kuala
Lumpur, Malaysia, Mohana (known to us in Myanmar by her maiden name as Ms Rose
Dutt), has already written and produced a number of beautifully illustrated books on
vegetarian cuisine and on fruits and a healthy diet for children.
Now that our isolated country is opening up to the world, this book can be read with
much pleasure and interest, not only by lovers of food, but visitors who want to know
more about the Myanmar people and their culture. Mohana knows Myanmar intimately,
being born and educated, and living over two decades in Myanmar from childhood.
I would like to recommend this book, Myanmar: Cuisine, Culture and Customs to
all readers interested in our country. The book will provide useful information and
hopefully an urge to try out some tasty Myanmar dishes, which are now becoming
available not only in our country but also in big cities like London, New York, Bangkok,
Singapore and Tokyo.
This is a lovely book for your bookshelf; also to give as a present to the rapidly growing
number of visitors who are now coming to Myanmar. It is one of the best introductions
to the people of Myanmar, their culture and nature, with a special focus on the cuisine,
providing precise instructions on how to prepare some of the special dishes which make
Myanmar unique.
Dr Thaw Kaung
Part-time Member, Myanmar Historical Commission, Ministry of Culture
Retired Professor and Chief Librarian, Universities’ Central Library, Yangon

Introduction
Myanmar holds a very special place in my heart. It is the place of my birth and
where I spent more than two decades of my life, surrounded by my loving
family—my parents, siblings, grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins—who all
called Myanmar home.
Myanmar is an enchanting place. A land of pagodas, festivals, music, dance
and varied communities, existing together with an unbridled joi de vivre, all of
which had such an impact on my own life and outlook.
It was this early introduction to different customs and cultures that sparked
my keen interest in multinational cuisine. It has been such an exciting journey,
and one that endures. Despite half a century of upheaval and instability faced
by the country, I still feel very much a part of the new Myanmar. And this is why
I felt compelled to write this book on Myanmar’s cuisine and culture, its people
and customs; aspects of the country still not widely known.
Within the pages of this book are colourful stories and anecdotes of my
personal experiences in Myanmar, coupled with my observations of the many
layers that make up the nation’s warm and spirited population.
In order to know the country, you have to first understand its heart and soul,
and this is something I hope to bring out in this book. Beginning in my home
town, Pathein (the “rice bowl” of Myanmar), and covering six other places
close to my heart, I hope you will enjoy this insider’s tour of Myanmar.
May this book help you gain an insight into this vast and vibrant country,
as you discover its cuisine, culture and customs.
Mohana Gill

Myanmar
at a G lance

INDIA
KACHIN
STATE
BANGLADESH CHINA
iver
SAGAING
dy R
DIVISION
arwa
Ayey
Pyin U Lwin
CHIN Mandalay SHAN
STATE STATE
Bagan
MYANMAR
RAKHINE MANDALAY
STATE DIVISION Inle Lake
MAGWAY
DIVISION LAOS
KAYAH
STATE
Naypyitaw
BAY OF BENGAL BAGO
DIVISION
YANGON KAYIN
DIVISION STATE
Pathien
AYEYARWADY Yangon Mawlamyine
DIVISION THAILAND
MON
STATE
INDIAN OCEAN
TANINTHARYI
DIVISION
ANDAMAN SEA
GULF OF THAILAND
16

Myanmar is a fascinating country. It is celebrated as the Land of the
Golden Pagodas and immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in his inspirational
poem, Road to Mandalay. But as a result of the army coup in the 1960s,
Myanmar was cloaked in mystery for half a century and not many
people are aware of its existence, much less its rich history, culture
and cuisine.
Myanmar is divided into seven states and seven divisions. The
states are Chin State, Kachin State, Kayin State, Kayah State, Mon
State, Rakhine State and Shan State, and the divisions comprise the
Ayeyarwady Division, Bago Division, Magway Division, Mandalay
Division, Sagaing Division, Tanintharyi Division and Yangon Division.
There are more than 100 ethnic groups including the main races known
as Bamar, Chin, Kachin, Kayah, Kayin, Mon and Rakhine. Each has its
own dialect, tradition, culture and traditional costume.
It is the largest country in mainland South East Asia, and the fortieth
largest in the world. It shares borders with Thailand, Laos, China and
India, and the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea flank her western
and southern coastlines. The longest river in Myanmar, the Ayeyarwady
River (also the Irrawaddy River), is revered as “sacred mother” by the
people as it gives life to arid fields, provides an abundance of fresh
fish to feed them and is an essential mode of transport from the north
to the south. Myanmar is also endowed with a profusion of natural
resources, gold lining her rivers and large swathes of the best jade and
rubies high in the mountains. The major industries in Myanmar are
agricultural produce, textiles, construction materials, pharmaceuticals,
gems and natural gas.
There are three distinct seasons in Myanmar, the cold season from
October to February which makes this the best time to visit, the hot
season from March until the beginning of June and the wet season from
about the middle of June until September.
FESTIVALS FOR CELEBRATION

Myanmar is endowed with fertile land, vast forests, flowing streams,
beautiful lakes, lush mountains and hills and a crystalline coast. This in
itself is a good reason to celebrate and enjoy life.
Known also as the Land of Festivals, Myanmar celebrates a festival
every month of the year. Most of the festivals are cultural with religious
tenets and are celebrated nation-wide. Celebrations can last for days, and
the most popular festival is Thingyan or the Water Festival, which ushers
in the Myanmar New Year. During this festival, bamboo platforms are
erected along the streets where people can splash water on passers-by
as well as those travelling in jeeps and trucks. Children often use water
pistols to join in the fun and only monks and the elderly are spared from
17

getting drenched. The Water Festival is symbolic of the washing away
of bad luck and sins and it culminates on New Year’s Day when fish and
birds are released as acts of merit and special feasts are held for monks.
CULTURE AND BELIEFS

The culture is largely influenced by Buddhism as 80 to 90 per cent of
the population is made up of Theravada Buddhists. Their philosophy
is one of tolerance and patience, and they believe in karma, that good
begets good and evil begets evil. To this end, they do meritorious
deeds, such as giving donations (especially to monks) and abide by
Buddhist precepts. They also believe that all male children should
become novice monks at some point in their lives to gain merit both
for himself and his parents. This initiation to become a novice monk is
known as the Shinpyu ceremony and it is one of the most important
and sacred events in life.
Shinpyu ceremonies are usually held around the time of the Water
Festival when schools are closed for the year. The boys are dressed in
princely attire, and family and friends form a procession through the
village to the monastery where the boys would be shaved and their
princely attired traded for monk’s robes. The novices have to stay
in the monastery for at least seven days, but they can extend their
stay and become ordained monks when they turn 19. During their
stay, they observe all the rules of the order and study the Buddhist
scriptures.
While boys go through the Shinpyu ceremony, the girls’ rite of
passage is the ear piercing ceremony. Unlike the Shinpyu ceremony,
this is more a social than religious event. It is mostly held before
the Shinpyu ceremony, so the sisters of the novices can join in the
procession.
CUSTOMS AND PRACTICES

The people of Myanmar do not have family names or surnames and
a woman retains her own name after marriage. Children are typically
named according to the day of the week on which he or she was born.
A name giving ceremony is usually held when a child turns 100 days
old and monks are invited to chant prayers and bless the baby.
While they do not practice using family names, the people address
each other with the use of honorifics before personal names as a way
of denoting status and showing respect. For example, young males
are addressed as Maung or Ko (brother), and older or senior men as
U (uncle). Young females are addressed as Ma (sister), and older or
senior women as Daw (aunt), regardless of their marital status.
18

At the dining table, elders are always served first. Should an elder
be absent, a spoonful of rice will be set aside as a mark of respect
before the meal is served.
Betel nut chewing is a common practice in Myanmar. It dates from
ancient times when people showed their hospitality by offering betel,
tobacco and tea, placed in a lacquer box, to guests. Today, betel stands
can be found on every street corner and in every market.
DRESSING AND APPEARANCE

The typical garment is the longyi, a sarong worn by both males and
females, although skirts and pants are becoming more common in
urban areas today.
All over the country, people apply a paste ground from the fragrant
bark of the thanakha tree to their faces. This paste keeps the skin cool
and offers protection from the sun.
FOOD OF MYANMAR
The food of Myanmar can best be described as a fusion of Chinese
and Indian cuisine with Thai influences, and the essential condiments
used are reminiscent of the flavours of these neighbouring countries,
including fish sauce, dried prawn (shrimp) paste, dried prawns
(shrimps), soy sauce, garlic, ginger, lemon grass, turmeric, tamarind,
coriander, mint, chillies and coconut milk.
While the cuisine includes many meat dishes, you will notice that
this book features more seafood and vegetable dishes, as these were
the dishes my family ate. A typical family meal includes rice, a meat
and/or seafood dish, a soup and vegetables that are lightly cooked or
raw with a fermented sauce for dipping. Everyone helps himself to the
dishes, taking more or less depending on his appetite or preferences.
It is thus difficult to estimate the serving size of each dish, and the
portion sizes provided for the recipes here should be used only as
a guage.
Desserts are not part of everyday meals, but are made specially for
entertaining guests or on important occasions and festivals.
The traditional family table is round and low. There are no chairs,
but reed mats for seats. Food is traditionally eaten with fingers,
although the use of chopsticks and western cutlery has become more
widespread in recent years.
Teashops and roadside stalls can be found throughout the country,
with tables and chairs laid out for customers to stop and have a bite.
The most common dishes found at such stalls include noodles and
fritters as well as cold beverages and desserts.
19

Pathein (Bassein)
Thinking of Pathein brings me back to my childhood and fills me with a deep
sense of nostalgia as I recall the special times shared with my parents and
siblings. I was born in Pathein and lived there until 1945 when WWII ended.
I was only about 6 or 7 years old when we left, but I still have vivid memories
of the place and our house. I went back to Pathein while doing research for
this book and to my joy, found the house still standing there. It has been over
70 years, yet there it stood, in all its time-worn grandeur.
Pathein is the fourth largest city in Myanmar, and the hub of the
Ayeyarwady Delta region. It was once a part of the Mon kingdom, and it
continues to be a multicultural society today, with a mix of Mon, Karen and
Rakhine people, who have brought together their different styles, food and
customs, creating a fusion unique to this region.
Pathein’s landscape is vast with rice paddies and fields where crops such as
sesame seeds, peanuts, maize, pulses and chillies, as well as jute and tobacco
are cultivated. Despite its distance from the ocean, Pathein is accessible to
large vessels due to its deep ports, and is the most important port outside of
Yangon. It is also linked to the rest of the country via railway. The city is also
known for its colourful handcrafted umbrellas, which are sold throughout the
country, and its halawa, a traditional sweet dessert unique to this area.
20

Chaung Tha, with its clear blue waters, white sandy beaches and untouched natural
surroundings, is approximately a 5-hour drive from Yangon. Sited along the pristine
coastline of the Bay of Bengal, it is an ideal site for maritime and leisure activities.
When I was living in Yangon, this beach was obscure and there was little development
in the area. Today, Chaung Tha is alive with international standard luxury resorts.
An impressive golden stupa crests the city skyline and dominates the vista. This is the
Shwe Mu Htaw Pagoda, built over 2,000 years ago by the Indian King Ashoka. The
stupa is over 45 metres tall; the topmost layer is made of solid gold, the middle tier of
pure silver and the third tier of bronze with some 829 diamonds, 843 rubies and 1,588
semi-precious stones.
21

This toll station on the way to Pathein is a
recent development with the opening up of
Myanmar, and similar toll plazas are starting
to dot the landscape. As our car approached,
the toll station employee stopped us, asked
us for our destination, wrote down the car
license plate number, collected the toll and
gave us a receipt for the toll.
Riverboats are the main means of

transportation in Pathein and a huge fleet
of boats, including motorised boats and
rowboats, ply the major rivers, offering an
essential and efficient means of transport
for the locals on a daily basis.
22

Pathein is the centre of the umbrella and parasol industry in Myanmar. There are
numerous factories and workshops making umbrellas and the oldest is the Shwe Sar
umbrella factory which just celebrated its 100th anniversary. The umbrellas created
here are very colourful and modern in design, and they range from small foldable
umbrellas, to outdoor patio umbrellas. As a child, I used to play with the umbrellas
that my parents bought as souvenirs for friends who came to visit us in Pathein. Then,
the umbrellas were mainly made of silk and painted with colourful motifs. Even with
modern technology today, the umbrellas in Pathein are still hand-made, and are
highly durable and weatherproof.
23

The eastern half of Pathein is a vast rice-producing alluvial plain of the Ayeyarwady
Delta. During the wet season, most of the paddy fields flood, the low lying areas
become water logged, and houses are submerged in the water. During our visit,
we saw farmers going about their tasks, wading through waist-deep water in the
flooded paddy fields.
24

Going to school can be a lot of fun. In the small villages, children typically walk to
school whatever the weather conditions, but some more fortunate ones get to go by
sidecar or rickshaw. In Myanmar, education is compulsory for children, but it is free,
and both boys and girls have equal chances to pursue education to any level. While
driving through Pathein, we saw a group of smiling children going to school in a mini
tractor. They carried their books in Shan bags and their lunches in tiffin carriers.
25

Pyin U Lwin
(Maymyo)
Pyin U Lwin, or Maymyo as it was called,
is another region in Myanmar that holds
fond memories for me and is therefore
very close to my heart. My father was
born there and lived there with his family
until he was married and moved to
Pathein. My earliest recollections of Pyin
U Lwin were of annual vacations during
the school holidays to visit my paternal
grandparents. My grandmother was well
known for her delicious home-made
strawberry jam, made from strawberries
that grew in abundance in Pyin U Lwin.
Pyin U Lwin lies close to Mandalay
and sits amongst the mountains of the
Shan Plateau. When the British captured
Mandalay during the Third Anglo-
Burmese War in 1885, they moved their
summer capital to what was then known
as Maymyo to take advantage of the
cooler climate and were there until the
end of British rule in 1948. As a result,
Pyin U Lwin is well known for its colonial-
style houses with large compounds and
picturesque gardens, as well as English
educational institutions including
St Mary’s, St Michael’s, St Albert’s and
Colgate.
Pyin U Lwin is presently the command
centre for the military and remains a
strategic military base.
26

Purcell Tower stands in the heart of the
town. It was a gift from Queen Victoria
and was built to commemorate the silver
jubilee of the reign of King George V. The
clock in this tower is said to have a chime
identical with that of Big Ben in London.
27

The Church of the Immaculate Conception was built
in the early 1900s and is one of the oldest churches
in Pyin U Lwin. Like most cathedrals built during that
time, it has a large brick sanctuary, a prominent bell
tower and cruciform floor design.
In the flurry of activity that punctuates the markets in

Pyin U Lwin, horse-drawn carriages or gharries are still
a central mode of transport. Imported from India, these
carriages operate much like modern day taxis. Unlike the
open horse-drawn carts found in other parts of Myanmar,
these quaint carriages are closed and painted in vibrant hues.
28

On the drive from Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin, we passed by a monastery and got to
interact with several young novice monks. In Myanmar, every Buddhist male is expected
to serve as a novice monk at some point in his life and these young novices belong to
Theravada tradition. They are admitted for nine days into the Buddhist order. During
their period of service, they assist with chores in the monastery, such as keeping the
grounds clean and gardening when they are not studying the Buddhist scriptures.
29

When we arrived at the monastery, it was playtime for some of the young novices
and like all children, they enjoyed having our attention and some time away from
their duties. During their stay in the monastery, the boys get basic grounding in
Buddhism, and follow the senior monks to collect food for their daily meals from
the community.
Thilashin (female novice nuns) literally

means “keepers of the precepts” and
these young novice nuns with shaven
heads are garbed in the emblematic
pink coloured robes of their order.
30

Every morning, the monks go on their alms walks. Walking in single file, they carry their alms
bowls and laypeople come out of their homes or shops to put food into the bowls. This food will
make up the monks’ provisions for the day. The monks are only allowed two meals a day and
they only eat what is given to them on these walks. Giving alms is a way for the laypeople to
get merit, and also allows the monks to stay in touch with the world outside of the monastery.
While all Buddhist males are required

to become a novice monk at some
point in their lives and can return to
pursue other life goals thereafter, this is
not so for Buddhist females. Those who
choose to become nuns typically stay
nuns for the rest of their lives. In this
photo, five novice nuns, dressed in their
traditional pink robes and carrying
their signature red umbrellas, smile for
the camera.
31

The children in Myanmar are friendly,
cheerful and self-reliant; they work when
not in school, selling food and drinks
along the road or at the ferry or railway
stations. These two brothers were
helping their parents at a food stall,
clearing tables and washing dishes and
were happy to pose for us. Their mother
explained that they helped out at the
stall after school and during the school
holidays. At least, she added, she knew
where they were and they had sufficient
to eat.
32

One of the most beautiful places to visit in Pyin U Lwin is the National Kandawgyi
Gardens (or National Botanical Gardens) built around a lake. It is said that 4,000
Turkish prisoners of war were conscripted to build these gardens back in 1915.
Besides a wide variety of flowers and fruit trees, there is also a playground and mini
zoo in the gardens. In the weekends, the park is popular with the locals. In A Civil
Servant in Burma, Sir Herbert Thirkell White describes the gardens this way: “Without
pretension to the picturesque, it is a place of great charm and quiet beauty, with no
palm trees and few pagodas, conspicuously un-Oriental, more like a corner of Surrey
than of Burma.”
The original Governor’s House was built in

1903, but it was destroyed in 1943. This is an
exact replica of the original building and it
is now a luxury hotel known as the Aureum
Resort. There are five suites in the main
house and several stylish modern bungalows
spread over the sprawling grounds.
33

Mawlamyine
(Moulmein)
Perhaps Mawlamyine (or Moulmein) is best
known to English speakers through the
opening lines of Rudyard Kipling’s poem,
Mandalay: “By the old Moulmein Pagoda,
lookin’ lazy at the sea. There’s a Burma girl
a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me”. It is
believed that the panoramic view from the
Kyaikthalan Pagoda over the river was Kipling’s
inspiration for this poem.
Mawlamyine is an ancient Mon town and
the name comes from Mot-Mua-Lum, which
means, “one eye destroyed”. It is the third
largest city in the country and the capital
of the Mon state. Situated in the Salween
River Delta, Mawlamyine is the gateway to
southeastern Myanmar. It is also a city that
I am especially fond of and where I spent a
year teaching at the University of Moulmein.
I taught at the Intermediate College
managed by the University of Rangoon. I was
there for about a year and it was an enjoyable
and interesting time. The college had just
opened, so there were very few staff members
and we got to know one another very well.
The friendships and bonds formed back then
still exist today.
The town is made up of people of different
ethnicities, such as the Mon, Bamar, Karen,
Chinese and Indians. The majority of the
people are Buddhists, with a minority being
Christians, Muslims and Hindus.
Today, Mawlamyine is a bustling modern
city with many new buildings. Only the old
pagodas on the Moulmein Ridge and a few
colonial buildings remain.
34

The Kyaik Hti Yoe Pagoda is the third most important
pilgrimage site in Myanmar. The pagoda itself is
small, but it is built on a gilded granite boulder at
the top of Mount Kyaiktiyo. The meaning of the word
kyaik hti yoe in the Mon language is “pagoda upon
a hermit’s head”. Legend has it that the boulder
is perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair and it
is this strand of hair that prevents the rock from
tumbling down. There are many other beliefs behind
this pagoda, another being the more often you visit
the pagoda, the more prosperous you will become.
For those who are unable to make the trek to the
pagoda, palanquins are available for hire.
35

While we were in Mawlamyine taking photos for this book, it rained cats and dogs.
But once the rain subsided and became a drizzle, the street vendors came out in full
force to sell their wares. Here, the smiling vendors approach our car with trays full of
freshly steamed corn cobs, fried fritters and other snacks.
36

Mawlamyine is known for its cuisine and is a veritable paradise for food lovers.
Food stalls like these can be found in every street corner, each one recognised for its
specialty. Whether it is mohinga or other delectable cooked dishes, the stalls remain
open throughout the day and late into the night. The food is tasty and affordable
for most.
There is a popular expression in Myanmar:

“Mandalay for the speaking, Yangon
for the bragging and Moulmein for the
eating”. This holds true, as Mawlamyine is
renowned for its cuisine and tropical fruit.
The best pomelos are said to come from
Mawlamyine, and it is also renowned for
its mangosteens, rambutans and of course
the king of all fruits, the durian. During my
childhood in Yangon, we were regularly
supplied baskets of delicious tropical fruits
from my uncle’s fruit orchards in the region.
In this photo, a lady carries rambutans and
mangosteens on a large tray for sale. Fruit
sellers balance these trays on their heads
and take them down for potential buyers to
select the fruit.
37

A unique and innovative way of displaying
and selling toys. This mobile toyshop is
made from bamboo poles tied together and
secured to the bicycle. This vendor cycles
from street to street, hoping to attract
people to buy his wares. Children are often
delighted to see him and have difficulty
choosing a toy from the large selection.
Young children bring their lunch to school

and enjoy it during their break. The food
is packed into tiffin carriers, and often
includes rice or noodles and a few side
dishes. It is also common for mothers to
bring the tiffin carriers to school during
lunchtime for their children.
During the wet season which stretches

from May through to October, it can rain
continuously for days. The streets and
paddy fields flood and there is water
everywhere. In this photo, two children
are having fun playing on a flooded street.
The people of Myanmar believe that they
should not get their heads wet in the rain,
and these children covered their heads
with plastic bags so their mothers do not
complain.
38

On the drive back to Yangon from Mawlamyine, we passed many paddy fields, all
flooded as it had been raining consistently every day. As the fields were flooded, the
villagers could not work in the fields. This young man, with his two water buffaloes,
was ready to go home. With their large hoofs and flexible foot joints, water buffaloes
are well suited to work in the deep and muddy paddy fields. They are often referred
to as “the living tractor of the East”, and offer an efficient and economical way to
plough small fields.
Street vendors take their wares to bus

stations and bus stops where commuters
are likely to make purchases to eat on their
way to their destinations. Given the large
number of vendors, good bargains are to
be had. Bargaining is very much part of the
culture and both the seller and the buyer
know that. As soon as the bus stops, the
vendors gather around the bus calling out
their wares.
39

Myanmar’s longest road and rail bridge, the Thanlwin Bridge, forms the backdrop in
this photo. It is 3,258 metres long and stretches over the Thanlwin River connecting
the country’s southeastern region with Yangon. It is an important landmark of this
area and was opened in 2005. It consists of a motor road, a railroad and pedestrian
lanes. Under the bridge, there is much activity as people from the surrounding
villages come by boat to go to school, the pagodas or markets.
40

I taught at the Intermediate College in
Mawlamyine for about a year when it
was under the University of Rangoon.
Thereafter, it was renamed twice,
becoming Moulmein Degree College in
1964 and the University of Moulmein in
1986. Today, it is an independent university
with a student enrolment of thousands.
Students come from all over to attend the
university here.
Win Sein Taw Ya is the largest reclining

Buddha in the world. It is situated amongst
the hills opposite the Kyauktalon Taung
Buddhist shrine. It is about 20 kilometres
south of Mawlamyine on the road to
Mudon. There are many other stupas and
hundreds of statues around the area. The
reclining Buddha is 180 metres long and
30 metres high. The head of the Buddha is
accessible by foot, and there are numerous
rooms within, filled with dioramas of the
teachings of Buddhism. It is a beautiful and
serene place. In the hills nearby is a little
waterfall that cascades into a man-made
pool where children enjoy playing.
Another landmark of Mawlamyine is the

Kyaik Ta Lan Pagoda. It was built in
875 and enshrines the Tripitaka Buddhist
manuscripts as well as a hair relic from the
Buddha. It is believed that it was from this
site that Rudyard Kipling wrote his famous
poem, The Road to Mandalay. The pagoda
is the highest structure in Mawlamyine,
being located on a ridge that overlooks the
town. At night, it is lighted and can be seen
for miles around. In recent years, a lift was
installed to enable the aged and infirm to
go to the pagoda as well.
41

This photo shows Strand Road, one of the most important commercial zones in
Mawlamyine. To the west, the road leads to Zeigyi market, the central shopping area.
Strand Road is just by Thanlwin River and offers a good view of the Thanlwin Bridge.
42

The Zeigyi market is located in the centre of the city. It is always crowded, with
countless stalls selling almost everything imaginable. As it is the wet season, all the
stalls are covered with umbrellas or tarpaulin. The trishaws seen in the foreground
are a very useful mode of transport for short distances and people coming to and
from the market use them frequently.
43

Bagan (Pagan)
Known as the city of four million pagodas, Bagan sits on the eastern banks
of the Ayeyarwady River (also Irrawaddy River) in central Myanmar. It was
the capital of the first Myanmar empire which began in the 11th century and
lasted until the 13th century. During this time, more than 10,000 Buddhist
temples, pagodas and monasteries were built on the city’s plains. Today, it is
said to be one of the richest archaeological sites in South East Asia.
44

45

The magnificent Shwezigon Pagoda
stands in the town of Nyaung-U in
Bagan. Construction is believed to have
been started in the 11th century by King
Anawratha. The gilded pagoda has a
square base like a pyramid and rises into a
bell-like dome. Around it are four shrines
each housing a four-metre high bronze
Buddha. It is a magical place.
Carriages drive through the Tharabar Gate

which marks the eastern entrance to the
old capital. Of the 12 original gates to the
walled city, this is the only one that remains.
There are two massive shrines on each side
of the gate, one housing an image of Maung
Tinde and the other, his sister, Thonhanhla.
They are known collectively as the Lords of
the High Mountain.
46

Bupaya Pagoda is located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River. The original
structure is believed to have been constructed by King Pyusaw Hti in the 2nd
century, but it was destroyed during an earthquake in 1975. The current structure
is a reconstruction of the original pagoda. The shape of the pagoda is from the Pyu
period, where pagodas took a simple, cylindrical form. The view from the river is
nothing short of spectacular.
Women have been smoking cheroots

and cigars in Myanmar for centuries.
They frequently roll their cheroots from
cornhusks and chopped tobacco mixed with
fragrant leaves and a bit of palm sugar.
This lady is smoking a traditional cigar and
carries her ashtray with her.
47

Stupas and pagodas are a testament to the faith and compassion of the people.
It is quite common to find people talking and eating with monks while sitting on
the marble floors of a temple and cooling themselves off from the heat of the day.
In the dry Bagan plains, peanuts grow in

abundance. In this village in Bagan, children
from the family drive a cow harnessed to a
mill to grind peanuts into oil. The people of
Myanmar have always used peanut oil in
their cooking. The residue from extracting
the oil is fed to the animals and used as
fertiliser. Nothing here goes to waste!
48

Traditional weaving has been practiced for thousands of years in Myanmar, and it
was once common for people to wear what they wove. These days, however, with the
introduction of machine manufactured fabrics, handwoven fabrics are less common
and have become expensive.
Thanakha is a cream coloured paste made

from pounding the fibres of the thanakha
tree. Many women in Myanmar apply
thanakha on their faces and those of their
children to cool and smoothen the skin.
49

A young lady selling jicamas. When I was
young, I loved eating jicamas fresh from
the garden. Coming home from school and
being able to peel and eat one of these
crunchy natural delicacies was pure heaven.
The cream coloured flesh is crisp, not unlike
a raw potato or pear, and has a sweet
flavour reminiscent of apples or raw green
beans. Jicamas can be eaten raw, sprinkled
with a little salt, lemon or lime juice and
chilli powder.
Myanmar produces a wide variety of fruits,

including sweet and juicy pineapples.
This fruit seller deftly slices the skin off
pineapples and carefully removes the eyes.
The locals enjoy eating pineapples with a
dash of honey and a drizzle of lime juice.
Cane ware is a cottage industry in

Myanmar. Cane grows freely in Myanmar’s
forests, and it is used to make many
household items such as baskets, chairs,
trays and even balls, used in a traditional
sport, chinlone.
50

Praying at pagodas and temples is integral
to the local culture. Devotees pray to the
statue of Buddha, bearing offerings of
fruits, flowers, incense and money. As a
student in Yangon, I always went to pray at
a pagoda before my exams and then again
when I passed my exams. It calmed me
down and gave me peace and solace.
In Myanmar, every Buddhist male is

expected to serve as a novice monk at some
point in his life. This spiritual obligation is
temporary and may last for a month.
Roadside construction workers having their

midday meal. Very often, the families of the
workers would live close to the construction
site, transporting their belongings in carts
and sleeping in the carts at night. This is
their mobile home, taken wherever there is
work to be done.
51

An Inthar fisherman glides on the azure
water of the lake. They have a unique style of
rowing: they stand at the stern, balanced on
one leg, and wrap the other leg around the
oar to propel the boat forward effortlessly.
This unique style evolved as a way of seeing
beyond the reeds and floating plants that
cover the lake. With hands kept free, the
fisherman is also able to work alone. It is
interesting to note that only the men practice
this style of rowing. The women row with
their hands and sit cross-legged at the stern.
Inle Lake
Inle Lake is the second largest lake in Myanmar. It is surrounded by the lush
greenery of the Shan States and is well known for its natural beauty.
The people who live in Inle are predominantly Inthas or “people of the
lake”, with a mix of other ethnicities including Shan Taungyo, Pa-O, Danu,
Kayah, Danaw and Bamar. For centuries, the Inthas have developed their
own unique lifestyle based around the beautiful waters of the lake. They live
in houses built on stilts in the lake and are self-sufficient, growing vegetables
on floating gardens made out of silt and weeds secured to the bottom of the
52

lake with bamboo stakes. They are skilled boatmen and fishermen, and are
known for their unique style of rowing, standing on one leg while using the
other leg to push the oar through the water.
The inhabitants are mostly Buddhist and Buddhist monasteries and small
pagodas dot the landscape. The most famous product of Inle Lake is a unique
fabric woven using lotus fibres, used to adorn images of Buddha. This unique
fabric is found only in Inle, and is believed to have been created by a woman
over a century ago, as a gift to a revered abbot.
53

Built in the 19th century, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery stands just outside
Nyaung Shwe. It is constructed entirely from teak wood and features
large oval windows, ornaments made of mosaic and a beautifully
carved gilded ceiling. Most of the monks who live here are novices
seeking to learn more about their religion and to see if they want to
make this their calling in life.
54

The children of Inle are taught to row and
swim from a very young age, and are adept
at rowing standing up and sitting down.
They take the boat to school daily without
the need for adult supervision.
School is over for the day. The bags that the children
carry are called Shan bags. Shan bags, as the name
implies, are a specialty of the Shan states. They are
produced in vibrant colours. They are practical and
make a perfect souvenir for visitors to take home.
55

Cheroots look like cigars and are very much part of the local culture. Factories
producing cheroots can be found in Inle and other parts of Myanmar, and each
factory has its own mix and blend. This industry provides housewives with an
income with the added bonus of working from home. The people believe that
cheroots are less harmful than cigars because the tobacco content is lower. The
filling is made up of a mixture of tobacco and some other leaves. Herbs and spices
are added for extra flavour.
56

The Tar Kaung Pagoda was built by King
Alaung Sithu (1113–1163), who was known
as a pagoda builder. One of his greatest
works is Tar Kaung Pagoda, which features
a unique artistic design and style. Most of
the shrines housed in this pagoda are still
in good condition.
While Myanmar is filled with images of

reclining Buddha, this one at Tar Kaung
Pagoda is said to be the most awe-inspiring.
57

The primitive method of making pottery by
hand using a paddle and anvil is still used
extensively in Myanmar today. Many potters
specialise in making only one or two types
of pots, and this potter specialises in making
flowerpots and jars for storing water. Many
potters are elderly women who are not
strong enough to work in the fields.
This picture shows some women from the

Pa-O ethnic group at the local Inle Lake
market. They are easily recognisable from
the dark clothing and brightly coloured
headgear that they wear. Their colourful
headgear can be made from woven striped
fabric or plaid factory woven scarves, and
range in colour from red to orange, pink,
white and green.
Living in and around the waters of the Inle

Lake, the people have become masters of
their surroundings. Their homes stand on
stilts in the water and they do everything
from farming and shopping to worshipping
on the lake. Most families own little canoes,
which they use for transport. Here, a
family sets out in the morning to do their
shopping, with plastic baskets to hold their
groceries, and large hats to protect them
from the sun’s rays.
58

Innumerable vegetable gardens float on This lady is selling luscious red tomatoes that grow organically in the
the lake. The locals call these vegetable floating gardens in the lake. These gardens are made from dredged
gardens, floating islands. These floating up water plants and are anchored by bamboo stakes to the bottom of
islands are formed from the mass of the lake. Covered with fertile mud and kept moist by the nutrient-rich
floating weed and other water plants water of the lake, the garden is fertile, making the produce delicious
found in the lake. They rise and fall and flavourful. And indeed, the tomatoes from Inle are the finest in
with the waters of the lake and are not Myanmar. They are picked green or just blushing and transported all
affected by the surge in water level or over Myanmar.
the dry weather.
59

The Shwedagon Pagoda glitters bright gold in the heat of the day, and takes on a
crimson gold and orange hue as the sun casts its evening rays across the city. Ralph
Fitch, the first Englishman to arrive in Myanmar in 1558, made this remark about the
city: “It is called Dagon and is of wonderful bigness, and all gilded from the foot to the
topped—it is the fairest place, as I suppose, that is in the world”. The magnificent hti
(the crown at the very top of the stupa) is 10 metres tall and covered with more than
36,000 gems, topped by a single 76-carat diamond. It is a prominent landmark visible
for miles and it is where the holy hair relics of the Buddha were enshrined more than
2,500 years ago. It truly qualifies as one of the wonders of the world and is considered
one of the most revered pagodas in South East Asia today.
60

Yangon (Rangoon)
Yangon, formerly Rangoon, is Myanmar’s largest city and its commercial
capital. The earliest inhabitants established settlements in Yangon some
2,500 years ago, but the founding of Yangon is officially credited to King
Alaung Paya who set his sight on the small town, then called Dagon, when
he conquered lower Myanmar in 1755. He changed its name to Yangon,
which means “End of Strife”. Modern Yangon has a population of over five
million. The city is now a mixture of diverse communities and cultures,
with deep Buddhist roots of respect for life, religion, work and community.
Yangon enjoys a tropical climate and the city is dotted with lush
tropical trees, shady parks and tranquil lakes. It has often been described
as the Garden City of the East. It retains much of its old world charm
with many colonial buildings, thriving markets and golden pagodas that
punctuate the city.
61

St Mary’s Cathedral is situated on Bo Aung
Kyaw Street in Botahtaung Township in
Yangon. It was designed by Dutch architect
Jos Cuypers. Construction began in 1895
and took four years. The interior of the
cathedral is adorned with exquisite stained
glass windows. The century-old cathedral
is one of Yangon’s most iconic buildings.
It is the largest cathedral in Myanmar
and during Christmas, about 2,500 people
attend midnight mass here.
62

The picturesque Maha Bandula Garden is located in downtown Yangon and it offers
breathtaking views of many of the colonial buildings left by the British, including the
high courthouse. The park is named after General Maha Bandula who fought against
the British in the First Anglo-Burmese War (1824–1826). Inside the gardens is the
striking Independence Monument built to commemorate Myanmar’s independence
from British rule. The tranquil park is also known for its charming rose gardens and is
very popular with tai chi practitioners early in the morning.
63

Puppet shows were first recorded in the
cultural annals of Myanmar in 1444 and
the puppet theatre reached the height
of its popularity in the 19th century
when it was used as a state-sponsored
vehicle for propaganda. Today, puppet
shows continue to be an important form
of entertainment for the locals and
tourists alike. Accompanied by traditional
instruments, the theme of puppet shows
run the gamut from the comical to the
serious. Colourful marionettes delicately
directed by a dozen or more skilled string
masters acting in unison are a sight to
behold. A curtain hides the puppeteers from
view, but as a standard practice, the veil is
lifted for a brief period during the show so
the audience can appreciate the delicate
artistry of the skilled puppeteers.
Three siblings, a pair of twin boys and

their older sister, pose for us at the market.
It is common to see children following
their mothers to the market before going
to school. After children are showered,
thanakha is applied to their faces and
sometimes also their hands and legs to
provide protection from the sun and to keep
their skin soft and smooth.
64

Flowers play a very important role in many
aspects of life in Myanmar. From farms
to homes, and from shops to places of
worship, flowers are found everywhere.
Daily life is not complete without fragrant
flowers. When I was growing up in Yangon,
I was told that a woman was not fully
dressed until she had adorned her hair with
flowers. Whether you walk along a busy
street in Yangon or dusty paths in quaint
villages, you will find people selling flowers
and buying flowers whether as an offering
or for adornment.
Roadside book vendors offer a diverse

collection of used books, including novels,
science fiction, religious texts and history
books—a disparate assortment rare to find
in a bookshop these days. Most of these are
books in the local language, but you may
find some antique books in English, ranging
from novels to engineering texts and even
school textbooks. The true treasures of these
displays are really the artwork contained in
the paperbacks.
65

Roadside food stalls can be found
throughout Yangon. These food stalls
sometimes stand alone, or there may be
two or more stalls clustered together,
competing with each other or providing
a delicious variety. These little shops are
deeply embedded in the local culture,
offering a convenient source of food at
reasonable prices.
Nandawun is the biggest privately owned

craft centre in Myanmar. It offers one-stop
shopping for travellers as well as wholesale
exports for dealers all over the world.
Nandawun was set up in the 1990s as
Nandawun: Myanmar Gems, Handicrafts
and Books Center by a local who loves and
appreciates traditional crafts.
66

The University of Rangoon is located in Yangon along the southwestern bank of Inle
Lake, the largest lake in Yangon. It was established in 1878 as an affiliate of the
University of Calcutta. The university was modelled after the Cambridge and Oxford
universities, and was operated and managed by the British. Throughout the 1940s
and 1950s, the University of Rangoon was the most prestigious university in South
East Asia and one of the top universities in Asia, attracting students from across the
region. The University was closed throughout the 1990s as political turmoil enveloped
the capital. American President Barack Obama’s address to the students in the
convocation hall in November 2012 offers a glimmer of hope that the university may
one day regain its former academic standing.
67

Myanmar Book Center was formed in 1995
as an import-export company specialising in
books and periodicals solely on Myanmar.
It is a lovely shop where you can immerse
yourself in the rich literary culture of the
country.
Lacquerware is a thousand year old craft

from Bagan, and Bagan-made traditional
lacquerware can be found in some
handicraft shops in Yangon, along with silk
of all colours from Mandalay and Inle.
68

Puppets made in Myanmar are unique and of impeccable handmade quality. They are
intricately crafted and distinctive in dress and style. In this shop, traditional puppets
hang lifeless, waiting for someone to take them home and infuse them with life.
69

Naypyitaw (Kyetpyay)
Located some 320 kilometres from Yangon (400 kilometres by road) is Naypyitaw,
Myanmar’s new capital since November 2005. Divided into districts, the most
important zones house military residences and headquarters, government
ministries, residential areas and hotels. Although more central than Yangon—it
lies closer to the three other important states of Shan, Kayah and Kachin—
Naypyitaw remains quiet and pristine. With its wide boulevards and landscaped
public spaces, there is a striking absence of inhabitants and traffic jams are not a
problem in this city.
70

The Naypyitaw Water Fountain Garden
is a sprawling recreational park located
near the Naypyitaw City Hall. A steel
archway marks the entrance to the
park, which is made up of a number of
gardens and ponds and water fountains
of varying sizes. There is also a clock
tower and several recreation centres.
At the heart of Naypyitaw lies the

parliamentary complex. It is made up
of 31 palatial buildings designed with
pagoda-style roofs to represent the 31
planes of existence in Buddhist cosmology.
Manicured lawns flank the buildings and
a grand 11-lane road leads up to the
main complex.
71

An inhabitant of the Naypyitaw Zoological
Gardens is the white tiger, a variant
of the Bengal tiger found in the Indian
subcontinent. These rare beautiful and
majestic animals are one of the main draws
to the zoo.
The planetarium, found within the

compound of the zoo, was opened in
2009 with the aim of serving as a public
recreation centre, to encourage interest
in astronomy among the country’s youth.
The modern, artistic dome-shaped building
boasts modern, state-of-the-art equipment.
To facilitate travel to and from Naypyitaw,

express coaches and private taxis run every
day along the Yangon-Naypyitaw highway.
Coaches and taxis wait for passengers at
the main bus station in Naypyitaw. For
travelling around Naypyitaw, motorbike
taxis, called thaw lar gyi, offer an efficient
means of transport.
72

This arch is the entrance to the Naypyitaw Zoological Gardens, which was opened in
2008. It is the largest and newest zoo in the country and is home to approximately
420 animals, including tigers, leopards, elephants, giraffes, zebras and penguins.
At night, the Naypyitaw Water Fountain

Garden lights up and creates a magnificent
vision of delight. In the background stands
the Uppasanti Pagoda, which resembles
the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Its name
means “peace” or “protection against
calamity”. The pagoda houses a Buddha
tooth relic, a gift from China, and a museum.
73

Food of
Myanmar

In Myanmar, soups are regarded as an indispensable accompaniment
to main meals. The people drink very little or no water with their
meals, so spoonfuls of soup are sipped throughout the meal to
freshen the palate. Soups can be basically categorised into four
styles—sweet soups, sour soups, bitter soups and bean soups. Sweet
soups are boiled using vegetables and are usually clear and bland.
They are served at room temperature and are typically garnished
with a sprinkling of leaves. Sour soups are boiled using a variety of
vegetables. The sour taste of the soup comes from tamarind pulp
or tomatoes. Bitter soups are generally spicy and peppery, and are
served hot with salads. Bean soups refer to creamy lentil soups.
These thick, stew-like dishes are often served on their own with
plain rice. These stews are rich with beans and vegetables and are
sometimes flavoured with a dash of tamarind liquid to add a lively
note to the harmony of tastes.

Boothee Hincho (Bo le Gourd Soup) 78
Pazun Hincho (Clear Prawn and Lime Soup) 80
Kyazan Hincho (Cellophane Noodle Soup) 82
Se Hna Myo Hincho (Soup with a Dozen Vegetables) 84
Chin Baung Nga Hincho (Roselle Leaf Soup with Grilled Fish) 86
Dunt Dalun Ywet (Clear Drums ck Leaf Soup) 88
Penilay Hincho (Red Len l Soup) 90
Kyauk Phayon Thee Hincho (Winter Melon Soup) 92
Soups

Boothee Hincho
Bottle Gourd Soup Serves 4–6
This is a classic soup, often served as an accompaniment to main meals. Bottle gourd is available from
Asian supermarkets, but courgette (zucchini) is a good substitute if bottle gourd cannot be found.
1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) water 1. Place the water in a pot with the dried prawn powder, onion, garlic,
1 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder dried prawn paste and fish sauce. Simmer over low heat for about
(page 215) 15 minutes until the onion is tender.
1
/4 cup sliced onion 2. Add the bottle gourd and simmer for another 10 minutes.
1 garlic clove, peeled and pounded 3. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Serve warm as part of a meal.
1 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) paste
1 Tbsp fish sauce
1 medium boƩle gourd, peeled and
cut into 2.5 x 0.5-cm (1 x 1/4-in) pieces
salt, to taste
78

Pazun Hincho
Clear Prawn and Lime Soup Serves 4–6
The subtle flavour of this soup is a result of the ingredients used as well as the cooking technique employed.
The onion and ginger, crushed with the flat side of a cleaver, release their flavours into the soup along with the
fresh, clean tastes of the lime juice, green chillies, spring onion (scallion) and coriander (cilantro).
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water 1. Bring the water to a boil in a pot. Lower the heat and add the prawns
12 prawns (shrimps), heads removed and fish sauce. Simmer for 5 minutes.
2 Tbsp fish sauce 2. Combine the lime juice, soy sauce, onion, ginger, chillies, spring onion
and coriander in a large serving bowl.
2 tsp fresh lime juice
3. Ladle the hot broth and prawns into the bowl. Garnish with slices of
2 tsp light soy sauce
lime, if desired, and serve immediately as part of a meal.
1 small onion, peeled and quartered,
then crushed with a cleaver
1 slice ginger, crushed with a cleaver
2 Tbsp sliced green chillies
1 Tbsp sliced spring onion (scallion)
1 Tbsp coarsely chopped coriander
leaves (cilantro)
1 lime, sliced, opƟonal
80

Kyazan Hincho
Cellophane Noodle Soup Serves 4–6
Cellophane (glass) noodles are a type of transparent noodle made from various starches, such as mung bean,
yam, potato and tapioca (cassava). The noodles are so-called because they take on a glassy and transparent quality
when cooked. Cellophane noodles require very little cooking time, and although they have little flavour of their
own, they absorb flavours easily, making them a favourite ingredient in soups, stir-fries and salads.
4 bundles cellophane (glass) noodles 1. Place the noodles into a basin of water and soak for 30 minutes until
1.25 litres (40 fl oz / 5 cups) chicken softened. Cut the noodles into short lengths.
stock (page 172) 2. Bring the stock to a boil in a pot. Add the onion, garlic and noodles and
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced cook until the noodles are tender.
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced 3. Add the prawns, mushrooms, courgette and soy sauce, and cook until
the prawns turn pink.
125 g (4 /2 oz) prawns (shrimps),
1
peeled and deveined 4. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot as a one-dish meal or
6 buƩon mushrooms, sliced with other side dishes.
1 courgeƩe (zucchini), finely sliced

into discs
1 Tbsp light soy sauce
salt, to taste
ground white pepper, to taste
82

Se Hna Myo Hincho
Soup with a Dozen Vegetables Serves 4–6
This soup has many tastes and textures. You can play around with the combination of vegetables and change them
according to availability and taste. This is the soup to make when you have a lot of vegetables in the refrigerator
that needs using up. You can also adjust the taste of the soup by varying the stock used.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and fry the onions and garlic
2 onions, peeled and sliced until fragrant. Add the meat and light soy sauce. Stir-fry for 4–5 minutes
until the meat is cooked.
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2. Add the choko, long beans, Chinese cabbage, baby corn, sweet pea pods,
125 g (41/2 oz) chicken, duck or pork tomatoes and spring onions. Cover and cook for 1–2 minutes.
meat, cut into thin strips
3. Transfer the contents of the wok to a large saucepan. Add the water and
bring to a boil over high heat. When the mixture is boiling, add the eggs,
1 small choko, peeled and cut into stirring rapidly.
bite-size pieces
4. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Cook for another 1–2 minutes.
1
/4 cup sliced long beans Dish out and serve hot as part of a meal.
1
/4 cup chopped Chinese cabbage
NOTE
1
/4 cup chopped baby corn
Make this into a very healthy and delicious vegetarian soup by omitting the
1
/4 cup sweet pea pods meat and eggs and adding a vegetable stock cube.
2–3 tomatoes, chopped
2 spring onions (scallions), cut into
5-cm (2-in) lengths
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water
2 eggs
salt, to taste
84

Chin Baung Nga Hincho
Roselle Leaf Soup with Grilled Fish Serves 4–6
This is a delicate soup with a light smoky flavour from the grilled fish. The trick is to grill the fish over charcoal
for that extra flavour. The grilling process will also eliminate any fishy odour.
200 g (7 oz) sole fish 1. Skewer the fish with bamboo skewers and cook over a charcoal or
3–4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced electric grill. Cool, then flake the fish and discard the bones.
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced 2. Place the fish flakes, garlic, onion, dried prawn powder, fish sauce,
turmeric and water in a pot. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and
1
/2 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) simmer for 5 minutes.
powder (page 215)
3. Add the roselle leaves and chilli and cook until the roselle leaves
11/2 tsp fish sauce
are limp.
a pinch of ground turmeric
4. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Simmer for another minute,
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water then dish out and serve immediately as part of a meal.
3 cups roselle leaves
NOTE
1 green chilli
Tamarind leaves, acacia leaves and other sour leaves can also be used
salt, to taste in this recipe.
86

Dunt Dalun Ywet
Clear Drumstick Leaf Soup Serves 4–6
The people of Myanmar use many healthy ingredients in their cooking and this is one such dish. Drumstick
leaves are also known as moringa and there is an old saying, “moringa leaves prevent 300 diseases”. Now,
science is proving that these tiny leaves are packed with incredible nutrition that can strengthen our bodies
and prevent many diseases.
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1. Place onion, garlic and ginger into a pot with the water and bring
1 Tbsp garlic, peeled and sliced to a boil. Add the drumstick leaves and cook until wilted.
1 Tbsp ginger, peeled and chopped 2. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Dish out and serve hot as
part of a meal.
3 cups drumsƟck leaves NOTE
Substitute the drumstick leaves with spinach leaves, if desired.
salt, to taste
Spinach leaves are also very nutritious.
88

Penilay Hincho
Red Lentil Soup Serves 4–6
Myanmar produces a great variety of pulses, lentils and beans. These ingredients are packed with nutrients and
they are used in many dishes for their nourishment and taste. This is a traditional lentil soup and it is easy to
prepare. This soup is almost always present at the table during meals.
1
/2 cup red lenƟls 1. Rinse the lentils in cold water, then leave to soak for 1 hour. Drain well.
2 Tbsp peanut oil 2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger,
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely turmeric and curry leaves and stir-fry for about 1 minute.
chopped 3. Add the lentils and brown them in the oil for a few minutes. Add the
1-cm (1/2-in) knob ginger, peeled and water and cook for about 30 minutes or until the lentils are soft.
finely chopped 4. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Serve hot as part of a meal.
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric
6–7 curry leaves
salt, to taste
90

Kyauk Phayon Thee Hincho
Winter Melon Soup Serves 4–6
The winter melon has little taste of its own, but it readily absorbs the flavours of the other ingredients it is
cooked with. Winter melon is best in soups and stews, and in Myanmar it is made into a tasty soup with prawns
(shrimps). This winter melon soup is simple and relatively quick to prepare. It is an excellent choice when you
are strapped for time, but still want to prepare a nourishing soup to go with your meal.
450 g (1 lb) winter melon 1. Cut off the rind and the soft centre of the winter melon. Cut the flesh
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water into small slices about 0.5-cm (1/4-in) thick. Set aside.
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 2. Bring the water to the boil in a pot. Add the garlic, shallots, prawns
and fish sauce and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.
2 shallots, peeled and quartered
3. Add the winter melon slices, then cover the pot and cook until the
4 medium prawns (shrimps), peeled
melon is soft and translucent.
and deveined
2 tsp fish sauce 4. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Garnish as desired and serve
hot as part of a meal.
salt, to taste
92

In Myanmar, salads are known as thoke, which means “mixed” or “blended by
hand”. And it is said that the secret to a good salad lies in the fingers of the chef.
Salads are an integral part of the cuisine of Myanmar and a meal is not complete
without a salad dish. Salads can be eaten with the main meal or served as a
snack. The special quality of salads in Myanmar is that each one is a balance of
different flavours and textures. The people of Myanmar like their salads to be
tender, yet with some crunch, and a mix of sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours
all at the same time.
In Myanmar, salads are made out of almost anything, from vegetables
and fruit, to fish and meat. Local cooks are very adept at mixing and adapting
ingredients depending on the availability. Ingredients that are in season are
often used, to ensure that the resulting dish is fresh and tasty. Salads from all
over Myanmar are often garnished with either sesame seeds or peanuts, both of
which are a good source of protein. Oil (usually peanut oil) infused with turmeric
and garlic is often used in the salad dressings, adding powerful anti-oxidants and
anti-microbial powers to the salads. The ingredients are tossed lightly together
just before serving to ensure that the nutrients are retained.
Almost all salads found in Myanmar are healthy as they contain fresh
vegetables that are rich in vitamins and minerals or seafood that is rich in
omega-3 fatty acids. Ingredients such as rice, noodles and eggs also contribute
additional nutrients to the salads.
Here are a few salads that you might like to try. They are not only tasty, but
nutritious and very easy to prepare.

Salads
Gin Thoke (Ginger Salad) 96
Kyet Thar Thoke (Shredded Chicken Salad) 98
Gorbe Douk Thoke (Crunchy Cabbage Salad) 100
Kha Yan Thee Mee Hpoke Thoke (Grilled Eggplant Salad) 102
Kyazan Thoke (Cellophane Noodle Salad) 104
Tha Yet Thee Thoke (Mango Salad) 106
Nga Hpai Thoke (Fish Cake Salad with Lime Juice and Herbs) 108
Hta Min Let Thoke (Hand-mixed Rice Salad with Tamarind) 110
Monlar Oo Thoke (Daikon Salad) 112
Min Kwa Ywet Thoke (Pennywort Salad) 114
Lephet Thoke (Pickled Tea Leaf Salad) 116
Shauk Thee Thoke (Pomelo Salad) 118

G in Thoke
Ginger Salad Serves 4–6
This salad is best made using very young ginger with thin, almost transparent and slightly pink skin. The
slivers of ginger can be easily pickled with lime juice, although pickled ginger is readily available from most
supermarkets in Yangon today. This ginger salad is a good digestive served after a meal, and can be served
with the main meal as well. When we were growing up, my siblings and I would snack on this in between
meals whenever we were hungry.
1
/2 cup peeled and shredded 1. Place the ginger in the lime juice. Set aside for a few hours or overnight.
young ginger
2. Squeeze any excess lime juice from the ginger, then toss the ginger with
1
/4 cup fresh lime juice the cabbage, peanuts, fried channa dal, lima beans, garlic, sesame seeds
1
/2 cup thinly sliced white cabbage and crisp-fried shallots.
1
/4 cup roasted unsalted peanuts 3. Add the chickpea flour and toss. Add the finely chopped chillies, if using,
and mix thoroughly using fingers.
1
/4 cup fried channa dhal
1
/4 cup lima beans 4. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Serve as part of a meal.
2 Tbsp sliced garlic

1
/4 cup roasted white sesame seeds
1
/4 cup crisp-fried shallots
1 Tbsp roasted chickpea flour
1–2 green chillies, finely chopped
(opƟonal)
salt, to taste
96

Kyet Thar Thoke
Shredded Chicken Salad Serves 4–6
This is a very easy salad to make, and is especially convenient to do when you have leftover chicken on hand.
400 g (141/3 oz) chicken breast meat 1. Steam the chicken breast until cooked through. Leave to cool, then
2 cups finely sliced white cabbage shred. Alternatively any leftover cooked chicken meat will do.
1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced 2. Prepare the dressing. Heat the oil in a wok over low heat and add the
shallots. Cook gently for about 15 minutes until the shallots are soft.
2–3 tomatoes, cut into wedges Add the turmeric and mix well. Set aside to cool.
1 red chilli or bird’s eye chilli, very
3. In a large bowl, toss the cabbage, onion, cherry tomatoes and chilli
finely chopped
together. Add the lime juice and fish sauce to taste.
lime juice, to taste
4. Add the shredded chicken and dressing and toss gently. Let stand for
fish sauce, to taste 5 minutes before serving.
1
/2 cup crisp-fried shallots 5. Sprinkle with the crisp-fried shallots and garnish with chopped
1
/4 cup chopped coriander leaves coriander. Serve as part of a meal.
(cilantro)
DRESSING
2 Tbsp peanut oil
120 g (41/3 oz) shallots, peeled and
finely sliced
1
98

Gorbe Douk Thoke
Crunchy Cabbage Salad Serves 4–6
This salad, made with shredded white cabbage, onion, roasted dried prawns (shrimps), lime juice and crisp-
fried shallots is simple yet very tasty.
3 cups finely shredded white cabbage 1. Place the cabbage in a large bowl and cover with cold water.
1 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder Refrigerate for about an hour, then drain well.
(page 215) 2. Place the drained cabbage in a large bowl. Add the dried prawn
1 medium onion, peeled and finely powder, onion, green chillies, chilli powder, lime juice and flavoured
sliced oil. Mix thoroughly by hand.
2–3 green chillies, chopped 3. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Top with the crisp-fried
shallots and serve immediately as part of a meal.
1 tsp chilli powder
2–3 Tbsp lime juice
1 Tbsp garlic-infused oil (page 214)
or chilli-infused oil (page 215)
salt, to taste
1–2 Tbsp crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
100

Kha Yan Thee Mee Hpoke Thoke
Grilled Eggplant Salad Serves 4–6
This is a very interesting and tasty salad. It is intense not only because of the aromatic crispy garlic and
fresh coriander, but because of the distinctive flavour of the grilled eggplant. The chopped peanuts and
sesame seeds also give it a crunchy texture. This salad is a little like baba ganoush or even Indian bharta,
but definitely more interesting.
2 large eggplants (aubergines) 1. Halve the eggplants lengthwise and place them cut-side down on
2 Tbsp cooking oil a lightly greased baking tray. Grill them for 15–30 minutes or until the
skin is charred and the flesh is very tender. Scoop out the flesh and
6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced discard the skin. Mash the flesh and set aside.
2 Tbsp chopped roasted unsalted 2. Heat the cooking oil in a wok. Add the garlic and fry until crisp. Drain
peanuts the garlic and reserve the oil.
1 Tbsp roasted white sesame seeds
3. Place the eggplant, fried garlic, peanuts, sesame seeds and chillies
2 bird’s eye chillies, chopped in a bowl. Season with fish sauce and 1 tsp garlic-infused oil. Mix well.
2 tsp fish sauce 4. Garnish with chilli flakes and coriander. Serve at room temperature as
chilli flakes, to taste part of a meal.
2 Tbsp chopped coriander leaves
(cilantro)
102

Khazan Thoke
Cellophane Noodle Salad Serves 4–6
This noodle salad can be said to be the most popular salad in Myanmar. The dish various from region to region,
but despite the differences, the dressing, made from a blend of lemon, lime or tamarind juice, fish sauce fried
onions, chick pea powder, chilli oil and coriander leaves, is always regarded as the most important ingredient.
250 g (9 oz) cellophane (glass) noodles 1. Place the cellophane noodles into a large heatproof bowl. Boil some
1 Tbsp roasted chickpea flour water and pour it over the noodles. Let sit for a few minutes, then
drain the noodles and refresh under cold running water. Drain and
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced place the noodles into a serving bowl.
1
/2 cup chopped coriander leaves 2. Sprinkle the roasted chickpea flour over the noodles, then add the
(cilantro) onion, coriander, mint, chilli flakes and crisp-fried shallots. Mix well.
1
/4 cup chopped mint
3. Add the chilli oil and lemon juice. Taste and season with salt and
1 Tbsp chilli flakes fish sauce. Serve as part of a meal.
2 Tbsp crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
2 Tbsp chilli-infused oil (page 215)
2 Tbsp lemon juice
salt, to taste
fish sauce, to taste
104

Tha Yet Thee Thoke
Mango Salad Serves 4–6
This salad is refreshing, light and very flavourful. Its base of grated mango, thinly sliced cucumber and onions
provides a medley of textures. It is crunchy and sweet and sour all at the same time.
1 green mango, peeled and grated 1. Combine the grated mango, cucumber and sliced onions in a mixing
1
/2 cucumber, cut into thin strips bowl. Add the coriander, crisp-fried shallots, dried prawn powder
and chilli flakes. Mix with your hands to combine the flavours.
1–2 onions, peeled and finely sliced
2. Add the palm sugar, green chillies and fish sauce.
2–3 tsp chopped coriander leaves
(cilantro) 3. Transfer to a serving dish. Serve as part of a meal.
2–3 tsp crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
2–4 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder
(page 215)
chilli flakes, to taste
a pinch of grated palm sugar
2–3 green chillies
106

Nga Hpai Thoke
Fish Cake Salad with Lime Juice and Herbs Serves 4–6
This salad is very popular in Myanmar and is never absent from festive meals. It is a simple dish with
wonderful flavours. The home-made fish cake, tossed with tomatoes and drizzled with tangy lemon juice
and gives the salad a unique texture. Traditionally, the fish meat is scraped from the fillets using oyster
shells, then pounded using a mortar and pestle to toughen the texture before shaping into cakes. For
convenience, a food processor can be used.
450 g (1 lb) white fish fillet (sea bream, 1. Prepare the fish cake. Place the fish fillet, garlic, ginger, turmeric,
snapper or sea bass), cut into small chillies and salt in a food processor and process until smooth,
pieces scraping down the bowl several times. Transfer the fish mixture
2 cloves garlic, peeled to a bowl.
5-cm (2-in) knob ginger, peeled and 2. Using wet hands, roll the fish mixture into 8-cm (3-in) long sausages,
sliced then flatten them.
5-cm (2-in) knob turmeric, peeled 3. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the fish cakes and cook for about
and sliced 5 minutes until golden brown on both sides. Remove and drain on
paper towels. Set aside.
2 red chillies, minced
salt, to taste 4. Place the onion, tomato or cherry tomatoes, coriander, chilli flakes,
lime juice and fish sauce in a large bowl and toss well.
2–4 Tbsp cooking oil
5. Slice the fish cakes into long slices. Add to the onion mixture with
1 medium onion, peeled and the chickpea flour.
thinly sliced
6. Garnish with crisp-fried shallots, if desired. Drizzle with a spoonful
1 tomato, halved and thinly sliced
of garlic-infused oil and serve as part of a meal.
or a handful of cherry tomatoes
1
/2 cup chopped coriander leaves
(cilantro)
chilli flakes, to taste
1 lime, juice extracted
2–3 Tbsp crisp-fried shallots, opƟonal
(page 214)
1 tsp garlic-infused oil (page 214)
108

Hta Min Let Thoke
Hand-mixed Rice Salad with Tamarind Serves 4–6
To me, this is the ultimate salad. You can make it as simple or as elaborate as you like, and serve it either
as a snack or main course. If you do not add the dried prawns (shrimps), it can be served as a vegetarian
dish. When I was growing up in Pathein, my mother would make an elaborate salad every Sunday when all
my uncles, aunties and cousins would come for lunch. Everyone mixed their own salad according to their
personal preference and taste. The secret to a good rice salad lies in the mixing.
1 Tbsp chilli-infused oil (page 215) 1. Heat the chilli-infused in a frying pan. Add the rice and cook for a few
1 cup cooked rice minutes, mixing well. Transfer to a bowl.
1
/2 cup sliced, boiled potatoes 2. Place all the remaining ingredients in separate bowls and arrange on
the dining table.
1
/2 cup cellophane (glass) noodles,
soaked in hot water unƟl soŌ, then 3. Guests should help themselves to a little of the rice, potatoes and
drained noodles and spoon over the desired quantity of the other ingredients,
then mix the salad with their fingers.
2–4 Tbsp chickpea flour
1
/2 cup thinly sliced fried bean curd 4. This salad is eaten with fingers. That is the meaning of let thoke—
mixing by hand.
1
/2 cup shredded green papaya
5. Serve as part of a meal.
1 cup bean sprouts
2–4 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder
(page 215)
1
(cilantro)
1
/4 cup crisp-fried shallots and garlic
(page 214)
1
/4 cup chilli flakes
2–4 Tbsp shallot-infused oil or
garlic-infused oil (page 214)
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) tamarind
liquid (page 214)
110

Monlar Oo Thoke
Daikon Salad Serves 4–6
This salad can be eaten on its own or as an accompaniment to curries and rice. Daikon is mild flavoured and
adds a lot of crunch to salads. It is an extremely versatile vegetable that can be eaten raw, braised or pickled.
In Myanmar, when daikon is used in salads, it is first soaked in vinegar to get rid of the raw taste.
3 Tbsp rice vinegar 1. In a bowl, mix together the rice vinegar, salt and sugar and stir until
1 tsp salt the salt and sugar are dissolved. Add the daikon and toss. Cover and
refrigerate for 10–15 minutes.
1 tsp sugar
2. Soak the sliced onion in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain.
1 large daikon, peeled and finely sliced
3. When ready to serve, drain the daikon and combine with the sliced
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
onion, grated carrot, fish sauce, peanut oil, crisp-fried garlic and
1
/2 carrot, peeled and grated green chillies. Toss well and serve as part of a meal.
1 tsp fish sauce
NOTE
3 Tbsp peanut oil You can add some crushed peanuts or roasted sesame seeds and some
1–2 tsp crisp-fried garlic (page 214) chopped coriander (cilantro) to add another dimension of taste to the
salad, if desired.
1–2 green chillies, sliced
112

Min Kwa Ywet Thoke
Pennywort Salad Serves 4–6
This is an unusual but delicious salad made from the pennywort herb, mixed with onion, peanuts and
sesame seeds. Pennywort is very easy to grow and is in fact grown in many households in Myanmar. When
I was growing up, there was always an abundance of pennywort in the garden. Whenever my mother
felt that something was missing from the dinner table, she would have me go to the garden to get some
pennywort. Knowing its food value, she made sure that we all had some of the salad.
450 g (1 lb) pennywort 1. Pluck the pennywort leaves from the stems and discard the stems.
2 large leƩuce leaves Slice the pennywort leaves and lettuce leaves thinly.
55 g (2 oz) onion, peeled and finely 2. Place the leaves into a bowl with the shallots, chilli and grated
chopped coconut. Add the lime juice, salt and palm sugar and toss well.
1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped 3. Garnish with crushed peanuts or sesame seeds. Serve as part
of a meal.
85 g (3 oz) grated coconut
lime juice, to taste NOTE
salt, to taste After discarding the stems, the pennywort leaves will only be about
a quarter of the original weight.
1
/2 tsp grated palm sugar
roasted unsalted peanuts, crushed
or roasted white sesame seeds
114

Lephet Thoke
Pickled Tea Leaf Salad Serves 6–8
In Myanmar, tea is not only enjoyed as a drink, it is also eaten. Pickled tea leaves is unique in the region, and
it is not only regarded as the national delicacy, but plays a significant role in society. No special occasion or
ceremony in Myanmar is considered complete without lephet thoke.
Besides being a tasty dish, the salad has the effect of warding off tiredness and sleepiness, and is especially
popular with students preparing for exams. In my home, large quantities of lephet thoke were consumed
during exam periods as I had four other siblings. Between mouthfuls of lephet thoke, we would chat. It was a
good time of bonding and those memories are very precious to me.
There are many variations to this salad, and the recipe provided here is a traditional one, with peanuts and
lentils and other ingredients arranged around a damp mound of green tea in the centre.
70 g (21/2 oz) pickled tea leaves 1. Place the ingredients in separate bowls and arrange on the table.
1 Tbsp roasted white sesame seeds 2. Guests should help themselves to the pickled tea leaves, sesame seeds,
1 Tbsp crisp-fried garlic (page 214) crisp-fried garlic, peanuts, yellow lentils, bird’s eye chillies and dried
prawn powder, if using, and mix them with fingers, then season the
2 Tbsp roasted unsalted peanuts mixture with some lime juice and salt.
2 Tbsp roasted yellow lenƟls
3. Serve as part of a meal.
1 Tbsp chopped bird’s eye chillies
1 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder, NOTE
opƟonal (page 215) Pickled tea leaves and roasted yellow lentils are available from Asian
supermarkets.
fresh lime juice, to taste
Packets of prepared ingredients for lephet thoke can be found all over
salt, to taste Myanmar. They are now also easily available outside of Myanmar.
116

Shauk Thee Thoke
Pomelo Salad Serves 4–6
Shauk thee is a big and sour lemon found only in Myanmar. It is bigger than a regular lemon and it is used
as a substitute for limes and lemons. The juice is also used to flavour salads and soups. Shauk thee makes a
tasty salad and is often served with peppery cellophane (glass) noodle soup. If shauk thee is not available,
use pomelo or grapefruit.
1 medium-size shauk thee, pomelo 1. Using the tip of a small knife, make cuts from the top of the fruit down
or grapefruit to the base. Cut through the skin but not to the flesh. Peel off the skin
3 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder and white pith. Separate the segments, peel off the membrane and
(page 215) break the sacs up into small pieces. Place in a large bowl.
2 tsp roasted chickpea flour 2. Add the dried prawn powder, chickpea flour, chilli powder and crisp-
fried shallots and garlic and toss to mix. Add the fish sauce and shallot-
2 tsp chilli powder infused oil and mix well.
2 tsp crisp-fried shallots
3. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.
2 tsp crisp-fried garlic
4. Serve as an accompaniment to hot cellophane noodle soup (page 82).
2 tsp fish sauce or to taste
1 tsp shallot-infused oil (page 214)
118

Vegetable dishes are very simple and the key to turning out a good
dish lies in using fresh vegetables that are in season from the wealth
of vegetables available in this great agricultural country all year
round. Local cooks are also adept at gathering edible wild plants and
herbs that grow in the fields and rice paddies. These shoots, leaves,
tendrils and aquatic greens add nutrition and interest to meals.
Attention is also given to the way the ingredients are cut to ensure
even cooking. The vegetables are then quickly cooked and served
immediately, to retain both taste and nutritional value.

Vegetables
Chin Baung Kyaw (Fried Roselle Leaves) 122

Pethe Kyaw (S r-fried Chinese Long Beans) 124
Hmo Kyaw (Sautéed Mushrooms) 126
Hin Thee Hin Ywet Yay Cho (Vegetable Curry) 128
Bone Lone Thee A Sar Thut (Stuﬀed Snake Gourd) 130
Shwe Phayoun Thee Hin (Pumpkin Curry) 132
Pun Gorbe Nanna Pyin (S r-fried Cauliflower with Coriander) 134
Khayan Chinthi Chet (Tomato Curry) 136
Pae Gyi Hnut (Simmered Lab Lab Beans) 138

Chin Baung Kyaw
Fried Roselle Leaves Serves 4–6
The leaves and stems of the roselle are sour, but they are consumed as a vegetable, and are rich in vitamin C.
It has an acidic taste which comes from its leaves and can be used as a tenderiser. This spicy and tasty side dish
of fried roselle leaves is best enjoyed with plain white or brown rice.
6 bunches roselle leaves 1. Pluck the roselle leaves from the stems and discard the stems. Wash
2 medium onions, peeled the leaves and set aside to drain.
4 large or 8 small garlic cloves, peeled 2. Process the onions, half the garlic and softened dried chillies or chilli
powder, into a paste. Set aside.
5 dried chillies, soaked to soŌen, or
1 tsp chilli powder 3. Process the dried prawn powder with the remaining half of the garlic.
Set aside.
2 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder
(page 215) 4. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the turmeric
1 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) paste, and onion-garlic-chilli paste and stir-fry until the mixture turns
mixed with 1 Tbsp water, opƟonal golden brown.
100 g (31/2 oz) canned bamboo shoot, 5. Add the roselle leaves and stir-fry to mix. Add the dried prawn paste,
shredded if using. Stir-fry to mix.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 6. Add the bamboo shoot and dried prawn powder and garlic mixture.
Mix well and stir-fry until the roselle leaves are wilted.
1
5 small green chillies 7. Add the whole green chillies and let it cook for a few more minutes.
Dish out and serve hot as part of a meal.
122

Pethe Kyaw
Stir-fried Chinese Long Beans Serves 4–6
Chinese long beans are popularly eaten in Myanmar where they are sometimes consumed raw. This is no
surprise, even that the freshly harvested beans are both crunchy and sweet. These beans are rich in vitamin A
and also contain a fair amount of vitamin C. This spicy dish of stir-fried long beans is easy to do, and is popularly
prepared as an everyday dish in Myanmar.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the turmeric, garlic and
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric onion and stir-fry over for about 1 minute or until fragrant.
1 garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced 2. Add the beans, dried prawn powder, salt and fish sauce and stir-fry
for a few minutes.
1 Tbsp thinly-sliced onion
3. Add the water and stir-fry until the beans are tender. Dish out and
225 g (1/2 lb) Chinese long beans, sliced
serve warm or at room temperature as part of a meal.
diagonally into 5-cm (2-in) lengths
1 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder NOTE
(page 215) If Chinese long beans are not available, you can use green beans or
salt, to taste French beans.
1
/2 tsp fish sauce
4 Tbsp water
124

Hmo Kyaw
Sautéed Mushrooms Serves 4–6
During the rainy season, wild mushrooms grow in abundance throughout Myanmar. This dish is delicious
prepared with wild mushrooms or straw mushrooms, or a combination of the two. You can also use a mixture
of different varieties of mushrooms available from your local supermarket.
1 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the onion and turmeric
2 Tbsp thinly sliced onion and stir-fry until the onion is softened.
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric 2. Add the mushrooms and chilli and stir-fry for about 5 minutes.
350 g (12 oz) fresh mushrooms, 3. Season with fish sauce and salt to taste. Dish out and serve warm or
cut into halves or quarters at room temperature as part of a meal.
1 green chilli, sliced
2 tsp fish sauce
salt, to taste
126

Hin Thee Hin Ywet Yay Cho
Vegetable Curry Serves 4–6
This vegetable curry is prepared with coconut milk, ginger, curry powder and turmeric, giving the dish a subtle,
exotic flavour. This is the typical way in which I would prepare this dish, but you can also replace the vegetables
and use your favourite greens.
2 tablespoons cooking oil 1. Heat oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion,
1
/2 cup chopped onion garlic and ginger and stir-fry for about 1 minute.
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced 2. Add the turmeric and red curry powder and mix well. Add the
mushrooms, broccoli, carrot, courgette and capsicum and stir-fry for
1 tsp grated ginger about 3 minutes.
1 tsp ground turmeric
3. Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and add the
1–2 Tbsp red curry powder sugar, salt and lime juice. Stir to mix. Simmer for a few minutes.
2 cups mushrooms, sliced 4. Dish out and serve hot as part of a meal.
2–3 cups broccoli florets
1 carrot, peeled and grated
1 courgeƩe (zucchini), sliced
1
/2 red capsicum (bell pepper), cored
and diced
180 ml (6 fl oz / 3/4 cup) coconut milk
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp salt, or to taste
1
/2 tsp lime juice
128

Bone Lone Thee A Sar Thut
Stuffed Snake Gourd Serves 4–6
The snake gourd plant produces long and curved fruits that appear like snakes, hence its name. The gourd is
long and hollow and lends itself well to stuffing. While snake gourds are typically stuffed with minced meat,
this recipe uses potato, making this dish ideal as a vegetarian dish.
2 onions 1. Peel and pound 1 onion with the garlic. Peel and slice the other onion.
4 cloves garlic Set aside.
1 snake gourd, about 50-cm 2. Scrape the thin skin of the snake gourd, then trim the ends and cut
(192/3-in) long it into 5-cm (2-in) lengths. Scoop out the membranes and clean the
inside well. Set aside.
3 medium potatoes
3. Boil a pot of water and cook the potatoes until tender. Leave to cool
4 Tbsp cooking oil
slightly, then peel and mash until smooth. Add the onion and garlic
2 green chillies, chopped mixture and mix well.
1 Tbsp chopped coriander leaves 4. Heat 2 Tbsp oil in a frying pan and add the potato mixture. Stir-fry
(cilantro) for a few minutes, then add the green chillies and coriander leaves.
salt, to taste Season to taste with salt. Dish out to a bowl.
250–375 ml (8–12 fl oz / 1–11/2 cups) 5. Stuff the snake gourd with the mashed potato mixture.
water
6. Heat the remaining 2 Tbsp oil in a clean frying pan over medium heat.
2 tsp light soy sauce Add the sliced onion and stir-fry until softened. Add the snake gourd
and enough water to help the snake gourd cook. Add more water if
you prefer the dish with more gravy. Cover and cook until the snake
gourd is tender.
7. Season with light soy sauce and a little salt if necessary. Dish out and
serve hot as part of a meal.
130

Shwe Phayoun Thee Hin
Pumpkin Curry Serves 4–6
There are many ways of cooking pumpkin and putting it in a curry is a delicious way to enjoy this nutritious
fruit. In this dish, the sweetness of the pumpkin goes well with the tangy lime juice and spicy chilli powder.
This sweet, sour and spicy curry goes well with plain rice.
450 g (1 lb) pumpkin 1. If the pumpkin is young and the skin green, you can cook it with
2 Tbsp cooking oil the skin. Otherwise, peel the skin. Cut the pumpkin into 2.5-cm
(1-in) cubes.
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
2. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the
1 onion, peeled and chopped shallot, onion, garlic, ginger and turmeric and stir-fry lightly. Add
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped the dried prawn powder and chilli powder. Cook for a few minutes
1 tsp ground ginger or 1 tsp chopped until fragrant.
fresh ginger 3. Add the sugar and pumpkin cubes. Increase the heat and add the
1 tsp ground turmeric water. Cover and cook until the pumpkin is tender. Add the chillies
and lime juice. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
2 Tbsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder
(page 215) 4. Sprinkle with coriander leaves and serve hot as part of a meal.
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp sugar
180 ml (6 fl oz / 3/4 cup) water
1–2 bird’s eye chilli, chopped
juice of 2 limes
salt, to taste
1 tsp ground black pepper
1
(cilantro)
132

Pun Gorbe Nanna Pyin
Stir-fried Cauliflower with Coriander Serves 4–6
Cauliflower is one of my family’s favourite vegetables. It is a very important vegetable in the cuisine of
Myanmar and it is used in many different ways. This particular dish is very delicious and easy to prepare.
The subtle taste of the coriander gives this dish a very different flavour and makes the dish unique.
1 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed garlic and stir-fry until it turns golden. Add the cauliflower and stir-fry
for 1 minute.
300 g (11 oz) cauliflower, cut into
florets 2. Add the water and soy sauce. Cover and simmer for 5–10 minutes or
until the water evaporates. The cauliflower should be cooked but still
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) water crunchy. Season to taste with salt.
3. Dish out and top with coriander. Serve hot as part of a meal.
salt, to taste
NOTE
a handful of coriander leaves (cilantro),
chopped I usually squeeze some lime juice over the finished dish for some
added tang.
134

Khayan Chinthi Chet
Tomato Curry Serves 4–6
The people of Myanmar consume a lot of tomatoes and it is quite

common to find a tomato salad, a tomato soup or some sliced raw
tomatoes served with each meal. This curry is cooked until it is
thick, with an almost jam-like consistency. Serve it with rice, a soup
dish and some ground chillies on the side.
2 Tbsp cooking oil

4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tsp chilli flakes, opƟonal
2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1
2 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder
(page 215)
2 cups finely diced tomatoes
2.5-cm (1-in) knob ginger, peeled and
thinly sliced
2 tsp chilli powder
3
/4 Tbsp fish sauce
2 green chillies
1
/2 cup finely chopped coriander leaves
(cilantro)
1. Heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and
chilli flakes and cook lightly. Add the onions and stir-fry for a
few minutes until the onions are translucent.
2. Add the turmeric, dried prawn powder and cook until the
onions are lightly brown. Add the tomatoes, ginger, chilli
powder and fish sauce. Cook for about a minute, stirring
often.
3. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook for 5–8 minutes,
stirring occasionally until the tomatoes are soft.
4. Increase the heat to high and stir frequently. Cook until all
the water has evaporated and the gravy is thick like a paste.
5. Dish out and add the green chillies and coriander. Cover the
dish and let sit for a few minutes. Stir the mixture once or
twice. Serve as part of a meal.
136

137

Pae Gyi Hnut
Simmered Lab Lab Beans Serves 4–6
This is a very popular dish in Myanmar. Pae gyi refers to lab lab beans, which are also known as hyacinth beans,
and hnut refers to the style of cooking used for this dish. This dish is delicious and not difficult to do. The only
downside is the time that it takes to remove the skin from the beans. In Myanmar, the skinned beans are
available in the markets.
1 cup lab lab beans 1. Soak the beans in a basin of cold water overnight, then peel off the
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water skins the following day. Soaking makes it easier for the skin to be
removed.
1
2. Place the beans in a pot with the water, turmeric, sugar, salt and oil.
1
/4 tsp sugar Cover the pot and simmer for about 50 minutes or until the beans
salt, to taste are tender.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 3. Dish out and sprinkle with crisp-fried shallots to taste. Serve as part
crisp-fried shallots (page 214) of a meal.
NOTE
I usually add some chopped coriander leaves (cilantro) and a squeeze of
lemon or lime juice to make this dish truly irresistible.
138

Fish and seafood are the most popular sources of protein
in Myanmar. The Bay of Bengal, which borders the full
length of the country, provides an affordable supply of
fresh seafood in great variety and abundance.
Freshwater fish are also in good supply, especially
catfish that thrive in the great Ayeyarwady River that
flows from the northern tip of Myanmar down to the
south, as well as in waterways all over the country.
Given the abundance of fish and seafood available
to them, the people of Myanmar have come up with an
equally vast collection of fish and seafood dishes that are
both varied and creative.

Dunt Dalun Chin Hin (Drums ck and Fish Sour Curry) 142
Ngathalauk Baung (Slow-cooked Hilsa) 144
Nga Myin Hsi Pyan (Bu erfish Curry) 146
Ga Nan Hin (Crab Curry) 148
Pazun Doke Hsi Pyan (Giant River Prawn Curry) 150
Nga Soke Yay Cho (Fish Cakes in Gravy) 152
Fish & Seafood

Dunt Dalun Chin Hin
Drumstick and Fish Sour Curry Serves 4–6
The drumstick, the long, green seedpod of the drumstick tree, is a favourite vegetable in Myanmar.
The tall and slender tree grows easily and most households in Myanmar have this tree in the garden
for a ready supply of the seedpods.
2 tsp sesame oil 1. Using a pan large enough to accommodate the stock, heat oil over
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant.
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2. Add the tomatoes and spinach or leafy greens and lower the heat.
Stir in the turmeric and pour in the stock. Bring to a boil.
3 tomatoes, green if possible
3. Add the drumsticks and the dried prawn paste or dried prawns.
1 cup spinach leaves or other
Boil for 10 minutes to allow the flavours to blend.
leafy greens
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric 4. Add the fish, lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season
with salt.
1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups)
fish stock or boiling water 5. Dish out and serve hot with rice and other side dishes.
2–3 drumsƟcks, cut 7.5-cm (3-in) NOTE
lengths and parboiled If you cannot find fresh drumsticks, use canned drumsticks, which make
1
/4 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) paste a good substitute.
or 1 Tbsp dried prawns (shrimps)
200 g (7 oz) white firm-flesh fish,
cut into small pieces
salt, to taste
142

Ngathalauk Baung
Slow-cooked Hilsa Serves 4–6
In Myanmar, there is an old proverb that goes, “When you select a fish to eat, choose hilsa (ngathalauk);
when you select a wife, choose a teenager”. The hilsa is highly sought after for its smooth, rich and
creamy flesh, but the fish is also known for its many fine bones. Cooks in Myanmar managed to overcome
this by slow-cooking the fish, which literally melts the bones without altering the texture of the fish.
Cooked this way, the spine, and even the head, becomes incredibly soft and deliciously edible. As children,
my siblings and I enjoyed eating hilsa, but my mother was always worried that we would choke on the
bones. If only we had known of this recipe then! Many years later, when I moved to Malaysia, this fish
was easily available there and I prepared it regularly for my children who named it thorny fish. I would
sometimes also deep-fry the fish so that the bones became brittle and easy to remove.
1 whole hilsa, about 1.35 kg (3 lb), 1. Cut the fish into thick steaks and place in a deep dish. Combine the
cleaned and guƩed ingredients for the marinade and pour over the fish. Cover and set
aside in the refrigerator for 2–3 hours.
MARINADE
2. When the fish is ready, prepare the gravy. Pound the onion, garlic,
2 Tbsp white vinegar ginger and softened dried chilies into a paste.
4 Tbsp shauk thee or lemon juice 3. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion paste and
2 Tbsp fish sauce cook until caramelised. Add the fish with the marinade, lemon grass,
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric tomatoes, shallots and water. Bring to a boil.
salt, to taste 4. When the water is boiling, lower the heat and cover the saucepan
with a tight fitting lid. Simmer for 2 hours, topping up with water as
1
/2 tsp chilli powder necessary to prevent the gravy from drying up.
GRAVY 5. After 2 hours of gentle cooking, the fish should be very soft and bones
1 onion, peeled and quartered falling apart. The oil would also have separated from the gravy.
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely 6. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Serve hot with rice and other
chopped side dishes.
2.5-cm (1-in) ginger, peeled and finely NOTE
chopped This dish can be cooked using a pressure cooker or slow cooker. It makes
3 dried chillies, soaked to soŌen an excellent filling for a sandwich.
2 Tbsp cooking oil
2 lemon grass stalks, ends trimmed
and bruised
2 medium ripe tomatoes, quartered
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
375 ml (12 fl oz / 11/2 cups) water
salt, to taste
144

Nga Myin Hsi Pyan
Butterfish Curry Serves 4–6
Butterfish is the English name given to the nga myin, a huge scaleless freshwater, fish highly prized for
it creamy tender flesh. The fish is typically cooked using a technique called hsi pyan—literally the oil has
returned—where the gravy is boiled until all the liquid has evaporated and the oil rises to the surface.
800 g (13/4 lb) buƩerfish, cleaned 1. Rub the fish with salt and ground turmeric. Set aside.
and cut into thick steaks
2. Pound the onions, garlic and ginger together.
a pinch of salt
3. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the pounded
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric onion mixture and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the sweet paprika
3 onions, peeled and chopped and tomatoes and mix lightly. Add the fish sauce and cook for
about 2 minutes.
5 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3 thin slices ginger 4. Lower the heat and add the fish and water. Cook until the gravy
is thick and the oil rises to the surface.
4 Tbsp cooking oil
5. Dish out and garnish as desired. Serve hot with rice and other
1
/3 tsp sweet paprika side dishes.
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
NOTE
11/2 tsp fish sauce
If butterfish is not available, halibut and cod make good substitutes.
2 Tbsp water
146

Ga Nan Hin
Crab Curry Serves 4–6
When crabs are in season, the people of Myanmar take full advantage of it and enjoy many dishes prepared
using crabs. This tasty crab curry has Indian influences and uses garam masala to add a touch of spice to
the dish.
1.35 kg (3 lb) live crabs 1. Bring a pot of water to the boil and plunge the crabs into the boiling
4 dried chillies, soaked to soŌen water. Drain, then clean the crabs and cut into smaller pieces.
Set aside.
3 Tbsp chopped onion
2. Place the softened dried chillies, onion and garlic in a blender and
2 garlic cloves, peeled process into a paste.
2 Tbsp cooking oil
3. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the chilli paste and
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric stir-fry for a few minutes until fragrant. Add the turmeric and fry for
1 Tbsp fish sauce another 1 minute.
2 Tbsp tamarind liquid (page 214) 4. Add the crabs and fish sauce. Stir-fry to coat the crabs with the
chilli paste. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes,
1 tsp garam masala
stirring occasionally to prevent burning.
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) water
5. Add the tamarind liquid, garam masala and water. Bring to a boil,
then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. The crabs will turn
red when they are cooked.
6. Dish out and serve hot with rice and other side dishes.
148

Pazun Doke Hsi Pyan
Giant River Prawn Curry Serves 4–6
This delicious prawn curry is a favourite in my household. When I was growing up, giant river prawns were
readily available and quite reasonably priced. Today, because river prawns are difficult to come by, they are
rather expensive. These giant prawns can weigh up to 300 g (11 oz) each. The best way to prepare them is
to cook them whole, with the head and shell intact, to enjoy the creamy, red-gold roe which is essential to
all prawn curries in Myanmar. Sometimes, the roe is gathered from the prawn heads, then cooked and eaten
dribbled on warm rice.
2 onions, peeled 1. Place the onions and garlic into a blender and process into a paste.
4 cloves garlic, peeled Set aside. Repeat to blend the tomatoes into a paste. Set aside.
2 ripe tomatoes 2. Wash the prawns and keep the heads and shells on if desired. Trim
the heads, feelers and legs. Remove the intestinal tract from the
4–6 giant prawns (shrimps) back of each prawn. Lightly rub the prawns with salt and turmeric.
salt, to taste Set aside.
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric 3. Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the onion paste and
4 Tbsp cooking oil stir-fry until golden brown. Add the sweet paprika and tomato paste.
Cook, stirring, for a few minutes.
1
/4 tsp sweet paprika
4. Add the prawns and fish sauce. Cook for another few minutes until
1 Tbsp fish sauce
the prawns change colour and are cooked. Taste and season with salt
2 Tbsp chopped spring onions if necessary.
(scallions)
5. When the oil starts to separate, sprinkle with spring onions. Dish out
and serve hot with rice and other side dishes.
150

Nga Soke Yay Cho
Fish Cakes in Gravy Serves 4–6
Fish cakes are very popular in Myanmar, and they are used in many dishes, from salads and noodles, to soups
and curries. They are sometimes also deep-fried and served as a snack. In Myanmar, the featherback is typically
used when making fish cakes. If you are not able to get featherback, carp or other white fish can be used. The
fish cakes are made by scraping the flesh of the fish, then pounding the paste to firm it up. In the modern
kitchen, this step can be simplified by using a blender.
FISH CAKE 1. Prepare the fish cake. Place the fish, garlic, onion and ginger in a
700 g (1 /2 lb) boneless fish
1 blender and process into a paste. Remove to a bowl and stir in the
salt. Moisten your fingers and shape the fish paste into balls or
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped flatten them a bit if you prefer.
1 onion, peeled and chopped 2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the fish
1-cm (1/2-in) knob ginger, peeled and cakes for about 3 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on paper
sliced towels. Alternatively, boil the fish cakes. Boil 125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup)
1
/2 tsp salt water in a frying pan. Place the fish cakes in a single layer in the pan,
then cover and cook for 2 minutes. Drain well.
cooking oil for frying
3. Prepare the gravy. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat.
GRAVY Add the turmeric and onions and stir-fry lightly. Add the ginger,
garlic, paprika, chillies and fish sauce. Lower the heat and simmer
4 Tbsp cooking oil
until the oil surfaces.
1
4. Add the tamarind liquid and let boil. Add the fish cakes and heat
2 onions, peeled and sliced through. Taste and season with salt as necessary.
1-cm (1/2-in) knob ginger, peeled and 5. Add the coriander and dish out. Serve hot with rice, a hot soup and
finely sliced some vegetables.
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
NOTE
1
/2 tsp paprika
I usually cook the fish cakes directly in the gravy so they remain succulent
2–3 green chillies, chopped and tender, unlike the traditional method above, which gives the fish cakes
a chewy texture.
1 Tbsp fish sauce
1 Tbsp tamarind liquid (page 214)
1
/2 tsp salt or to taste
a handful of coriander leaves (cilantro)
152

Rice & Noodles
Rice is one of the most important food grains in the
world, second only to wheat in importance. Blessed
with an ideal climate, sufficient rainfall and a vast
extent of arable land area, Myanmar cultivates rice
for local consumption and export. Many varieties of
rice are grown, including a short-grain pink rice and
a black glutinous rice. Life without rice would be
inconceivable to the locals, for whom plain boiled
white rice is a staple. Rice is served and consumed
in generous quantities at every meal.
Besides rice, noodle dishes are the other staple
in Myanmar. Noodles come in several forms and
the most popular are rice vermicelli, rice noodles,
glass noodles and wheat noodles. Noodles are used
in curries, soups and even salads.

Dan Bauk (Chicken Biryani) 156
Ohn Htamin Chet Tha Hin (Coconut Rice) 158
Htamin Gyaw (Fried Rice) 160
Kao Hnyin Baung (Steamed GluƟnous Rice) 162
Si Htamin (Oil Rice) 164
Ohn No Khauk Swe (Curry Noodles) 166
Mohinga (Rice Noodles in Fish Soup) 168
Mandalay Mondi (Myanmar Spagheƫ) 172
Khauk Swe Kyaw (SƟr-fried Noodles) 174

Dan Pauk
Chicken Biryani Serves 4–6
Chicken biryani is the legacy of Indians who settled in Myanmar generations ago. The dish is moist, being
cooked with yoghurt, fragrant with spices such as cloves, cinnamon, saffron and bay leaf, and rich with
generous helpings of cashew nuts, raisins and peas. It is typically served with a salad of sliced onions and
cucumber to refresh the palate between mouthfuls.
In Myanmar, biryani is prepared using a special rice that is grown domestically, and not the typical
basmati. When I was growing up in Yangon, there was a stall in Moghul Street that served very good chicken
biryani and I often ate there with my cousins and friends. My mother was also a very good cook and she often
prepared chicken biryani for weekend meals when we lived as an extended family with my aunts, uncles and
cousins. It is an excellent one-dish meal and easy to prepare.
156

CHICKEN 1. Prepare the chicken. Mix the salt and turmeric together and rub it into
2 tsp salt the chicken. Let stand for 15 minutes.
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric 2. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and
cook each side for 5 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside.
1 whole chicken, about 1.5 kg
(3 lb 41/2 oz), cut into 8 pieces 3. Reheat the pan over medium heat and add the cardamom, turmeric,
paprika or chilli powder, garam masala, cumin, cinnamon and salt.
4 Tbsp cooking oil or ghee
Stir-fry for about 1 minute, then add the rice and stir-fry for another
(clarified bu er)
2 minutes.
RICE 4. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cover
8 cardamom pods the pan. Simmer for 7 minutes to half-cook the rice.
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric 5. Add the chicken, crisp-fried shallots, yoghurt, peas, raisins and saffron.
Mix everything together, then cover the pan and cook slowly over low
2 tsp paprika or chilli powder
heat for 30–40 minutes. Do not stir the mixture during this time, but
1 Tbsp garam masala shake the pan back and forth several times occasionally so the sauce
1 tsp ground cumin will not stick to the pan. Alternatively, place the (ovenproof) pan in an
oven preheated to 180°C (350°F) and bake for 40 minutes.
7.5-cm (3-in) length cinnamon s ck
6. Mix all the ingredients for the salad together just before serving.
salt, to taste
4 cups long-grain rice, washed and 7. Serve the biryani hot with the salad on the side.
drained
1.25 litres (40 fl oz / 5 cups) chicken
stock (page 172)
1 cup crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) plain yoghurt
1 cup peas
1
/2 cup dark raisins
1 tsp saﬀron strands, soaked in 2 Tbsp
warm water
SALAD
1 cup thinly sliced onions, rinsed with
cold water and drained
1
/2 cup fresh mint leaves
3 bird’s eye chillies
3 Tbsp lime juice
1
/2 tsp salt
157

O hn Htamin Chet Tha Hin
Coconut Rice Serves 4–6
The delicious coconut rice is usually prepared for special occasions and festivals. It is simple to prepare and
goes well with the barest of accompaniments. In Myanmar, coconut rice is traditionally served with a chicken
curry and I have included a recipe for a mildly spicy curry here. I like to use boneless chicken breasts, but you
can use any part of the chicken.
COCONUT RICE 1. Prepare the coconut rice. Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and
21/2 cups long-grain rice, washed bring to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes.
and drained Use a fork to stir around the edges of the pan, then replace the lid and
continue to cook for another 10 minutes.
1.25 litres (40 fl oz / 5 cups) coconut
milk 2. Prepare the chicken curry. Rub the chicken with the turmeric, garam
masala and salt. Cover and set aside.
3–4 small onions, peeled and halved
3. Place the onions, garlic, ginger, paprika and cayenne pepper in a
1 tsp salt
blender with 2 Tbsp water and process into a paste.
CHICKEN CURRY 4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) skinless boneless paste and stir-fry for a few minutes until fragrant. Add the chicken and
chicken breasts, cut into chunks cook for 3–4 minutes.
2 tsp ground turmeric 5. Add the lemon grass and fish sauce and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the
water and bring to a boil.
1
/2 tsp garam masala
1 tsp salt, or to taste 6. Lower the heat and simmer until the chicken is cooked and tender, and
the oil separates from the gravy.
2 onions, peeled and sliced
7. Dish out and serve hot with the coconut rice.
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 thin slices ginger
2 tsp paprika
1
/2 tsp cayenne pepper
4 Tbsp cooking oil
1 lemon grass stalk, ends trimmed
and bruised
1 Tbsp fish sauce
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) water
158

Htamin Gyaw
Fried Rice Serves 4–6
In Myanmar, fried rice is typically prepared using the local fragrant rice, a short-grain rice. There are many
variations to this dish and one of the more popular recipes includes peas, onions, garlic and soy sauce.
A quick and easy dish, fried rice can be prepared at a moment’s notice or whenever there are unexpected
guests. I remember times when my mother would quickly whip up a plate of fried rice with a pickle or salad
when I came home from school. I would eat it with relish while telling my mother about the day’s events.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the beaten egg and use
1 egg, beaten a spatula to scramble the egg.
1
/2 cup chopped green beans 2. Add the green beans, carrots and fried bean curd cubes and stir-fry
lightly to mix.
1
/2 cup chopped carrots
3. Add the soy sauce and rice. Stir and toss the mixture, making sure
1
/2 cup fried bean curd cubes
that every grain of rice is coated with oil and soy sauce. Stir-fry for
1 Tbsp light soy sauce 3–5 minutes.
300 g (11 oz) cold, cooked long-grain 4. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Dish out and garnish with
rice roasted walnuts and crisp-fried shallots. Serve hot.
salt, to taste
NOTE
When preparing fried rice, use rice that has been cooked and refrigerated
1
/4 cup roasted walnuts so it is cold and dry. This will ensure that the grains will be separate and
not clump up when fried. Use high heat and toss the ingredients constantly
2 Tbsp crisp-fried shallots (page 214) to prevent them from burning. Fry the rice sufficiently so it is almost crisp
in parts, but not hard or burnt.
160

Kao Hnyin Baung
Steamed Glutinous Rice Serves 4–6
Glutinous rice is a favourite food in Myanmar where it is usually eaten for breakfast with boiled peas (pe pyoke)
or a variety of fritters. When I was growing up, an itinerant vendor selling steamed glutinous rice would come
around with a basket on her head. As she walked, she would call out, “Kao hnyin baung!” and the children
in the neighbourhood would rush out to get some. For every order, she would spoon some freshly steamed
glutinous rice on a sheet of banana leaf and sprinkle it with roasted sesame seeds and grated coconut. The
black variety of glutinous rice, known as nga cheik is equally popular cooked this way. To eat freshly steamed
glutinous rice in the morning was really bliss! This is one of those unforgettable experiences of growing up in
Yangon. Today, the itinerant vendor no longer comes around, but you can still buy the cooked glutinous rice in
the markets, although the charm and excitement of being served this hot and delicious food at your doorstep
cannot be matched.
1 cup glu nous rice 1. Place the glutinous rice in a mixing bowl. Cover with water and leave
1
/4 cup adzuki beans for at least 6 hours or overnight. Do the same for the adzuki beans.
a pinch of salt 2. When ready to cook, fill a large pot with water and boil over high
heat. Get ready a bamboo steamer that will fit nicely over the pot.
2 Tbsp roasted white sesame seeds, Line the bamboo steamer with a sheet of cheesecloth.
finely crushed
3. Drain the glutinous rice and adzuki beans. Add the adzuki beans to
1
/2 cup grated coconut
the rice and mix well. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt.
4. Pour the rice with the adzuki beans onto the cheesecloth in the
steamer. Cover the bamboo steamer with the lid and place over the
pot of boiling water. Let steam for 20 minutes.
5. Remove the bamboo steamer from the heat and let the rice sit for
about 10 minutes before serving.
6. The steamed rice will be sticky and soft, and will hold any shape
you mould it into. Top with the crushed sesame seeds and grated
coconut. Serve hot or at room temperature.
162

S i Htamin
Oil Rice Serves 4–6
This glutinous rice dish is cooked with turmeric and onions and served with roasted sesame seeds and crisp-
fried onions. It is a popular breakfast dish in Myanmar.
1 tsp ground turmeric 1. Sprinkle the turmeric over the cut onions and toss lightly to mix well.
4 onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2. Heat oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the onions and stir-fry
6 Tbsp cooking oil until golden brown. Remove half portion of the onions and aside
for garnishing.
2 cups glu nous rice, washed and
drained 3. Add the rice to the wok and mix well with the oil and onions.
Season with salt. Add the water and stir well. Bring to a boil.
salt, to taste
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) hot water 4. Lower the heat to simmer. Cover the wok tightly with a lid and
simmer for about 20 minutes, until the rice is cooked and the water
4 Tbsp roasted white sesame seeds, fully absorbed.
finely crushed
5. Dish out and garnish with the fried onions, crushed sesame seeds
1
/2 cup grated coconut and grated coconut. This dish is often eaten with fried salted fish.
4 pieces fried salted fish, op onal
NOTE
If you like eating rice crust, leave the rice over low heat for another
5–10 minutes before dishing it out. You should hear a crackling sound
as the rice dries, forming the crust.
164

Ohn No Khauk Swe
Curry Noodles Serves 4–6
This is a popular dish throughout Myanmar and it was also a firm favourite in my household. My mother
often prepared this dish in the weekends to feed all the members of our extended family. It is a simple
no-fuss one-dish meal, that is easy to prepare and very tasty and satisfying. The dish is spiced with garam
masala, evidence of its Indian-Muslim influence.
500 g (1 lb 11/2 oz) skinless, chicken 1. Marinate the chicken with the fish sauce and some salt. Set aside for
breast fillet 10 minutes.
1 tsp fish sauce 2. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the turmeric,
salt, to taste paprika, cumin, garam masala, onions, garlic and ginger and stir-fry
for a few minutes. Add the chicken and cook for a few minutes until
3 Tbsp cooking oil the chicken is lightly cooked.
3. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer
1 tsp sweet paprika for a few minutes. Remove the chicken and leave to cool before
1
/2 tsp ground cumin shredding. Return the shredded chicken to the pan.
1 tsp garam masala 4. Mix the chickpea flour with a small amount of water. Stir into the
simmering stock. Add the coconut milk and allow the stock to simmer
2 onions, peeled and chopped
for a few minutes. Add the puréed shallots and cook for 5 minutes.
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped Remove the pot from the heat.
2.5-cm (1-in) knob ginger, peeled 5. Divide the noodles among individual serving bowls and ladle the
and chopped gravy over.
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) chicken stock 6. Serve hot, topped with slices of hard-boiled egg, crisp-fried noodles,
(page 172) sliced onions, spring onions, coriander, chilli flakes and lime wedges.
3 Tbsp roasted chickpea flour (page 215)
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) thick coconut milk
12 shallots, peeled and puréed
600 g (1 lb 51/3 oz) fresh yellow noodles,
blanched
GARNISH
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
1
/4 cup crisp-fried egg noodles or
rice vermicelli, op onal
2 onions, peeled and finely sliced, then
soaked in water and squeezed dry
1
/4 cup chopped spring onions (scallions)
1
(cilantro)
1 Tbsp chilli flakes
2–3 limes, cut into wedges
166

Mohinga
Rice Noodles in Fish Soup Serves 4–6
Many people consider this dish to be the national dish of Myanmar. And for most people in Myanmar, it is the
ultimate comfort food. And indeed, this dish brings back many childhood memories for me. When I was growing
up, mohinga was one of the most popular and common foods sold at food stalls. It could be considered fast food
as it was available everywhere. It was sold as a breakfast dish and you can now see stalls advertising this “all
day breakfast” dish in many towns and cities throughout Myanmar. Mohinga was also available from itinerant
vendors who would balance the ingredients and a charcoal stove on a yoke placed over his shoulders, shouting,
“Mohinga” and walking from street to street.
Mohinga originated from southern Myanmar where fish was more readily available. A small freshwater
catfish known as ngaiji is typically used, but other fish like ngakhu (also a catfish) and ngapano (snakehead)
are sometimes also used. When I was living away from Myanmar, I began experimenting making mohinga with
other firm white flesh fish and the results were very tasty, so if catfish is not available, use any firm white flesh
fish you can find.
168

3 Tbsp cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic,
1 onion, peeled and grated ginger and lemon grass and stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the chilli
powder and turmeric and stir-fry until fragrant.
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2. Add the water and banana stem or onions. Stir in the rice flour mixture
5-cm (2-in) knob ginger, peeled and and bring to a boil, stirring to prevent any lumps forming.
grated
3. When the soup has thickened, lower the heat and simmer for about
1 lemon grass stalk, ends trimmed
20 minutes.
and finely chopped
1 tsp chilli powder 4. Add the fish and simmer for another 10 minutes until the fish is cooked.
Taste and season with salt or fish sauce.
5. To serve, place a portion of rice vermicelli in individual serving bowls and
1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) water ladle the soup over. Place the garnishes in separate saucers and allow
100 g (31/2 oz) young banana stem, guests to help themselves to it.
sliced or 10 small onions, peeled
and sliced
4 Tbsp rice flour, roasted and mixed
with a li le cold water
450 g (1 lb) ca ish or any firm white
flesh fish, cleaned and cut into
small pieces
salt or fish sauce, to taste
450 g (1 lb) fine rice vermicelli, blanched
GARNISH
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and
quartered
pei kyaw/channa dhal fri ers (page 198)
kyethun kyaw/onion fri ers (page 199)
boothee kyaw/fried gourd (page 198)
ngephe kyaw/fish fri ers (page 199)
1
/4 cup chopped spring onions (scallions)
1
(cilantro)
1 Tbsp chilli flakes
169

170

171

Mandalay Mondi
Myanmar Spaghetti Serves 4–6
This dish originated from Mandalay and the people of Mandalay take great pride in it. The noodles are served
in a light chicken curry with a bowl of soup and an array of toppings and condiments on the side.
600 g (1 lb 51/3 oz) skinless chicken meat 1. Slice the chicken and marinate with fish sauce and a little salt.
1 tsp fish sauce Set aside.
salt, to taste 2. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the turmeric, paprika,
onions and garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the marinated chicken
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) cooking oil and cook for a few minutes. Add the water and simmer until the
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric chicken is cooked through. Set aside and keep warm.
1
/3 tsp sweet paprika 3. Prepare the chicken stock. Place the water, chicken bones, garlic and
2 onions, peeled and sliced ginger in a pot and bring to a boil. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming
scum from the surface from time to time. Strain the stock.
4. To serve, divide the rice noodles among individual serving bowls. Add
a generous ladleful of gravy, then top with some shallot-infused oil,
450 g (1 lb) fresh rice noodles, blanched crisp-fried shallots, 1 Tbsp roasted chickpea flour, a few slices of hard-
boiled egg, fish cakes, sliced onion, coriander, fried egg noodles, bean
CHICKEN STOCK sprouts, chilli flakes and lime wedges. Serve with a bowl of chicken
1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) water stock on the side.
chicken bones from 1 chicken
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 thin slice ginger
salt, to taste
GARNISH
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) shallot-infused
oil (page 214)
1
/4 crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
1
/2 cup roasted chickpea flour (page 215)
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
4 fish cakes (page 108), sliced, op onal
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1
(cilantro)
a handful of egg noodles, deep-fried
un l crisp
a handful of bean sprouts, blanched
1
/4 cup chilli flakes
172

Khauk Swe Kyaw
Stir-fried Noodles Serves 4
This simple dish can be whipped up very quickly. I have used wheat noodles, but you can use any type of
noodles you prefer. Most families in Myanmar will have their own version of this dish prepared using their
favourite noodles. Since my family did not eat much meat, my mother used to make this for us as it is
wholesome, delicious and very satisfying.
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked 1. Drain the dried mushrooms. Cut off the hard stems, then slice the caps
to so en thinly. Slice the fresh mushrooms. Set aside.
4 fresh large mushrooms 2. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until
2 Tbsp cooking oil fragrant. Add the mushrooms, cabbage and carrots. Stir-fry until the
carrots are tender. Season with salt.
3. Add the water and when it is bubbling, add the noodles and soy sauce.
150 g (51/3 oz) cabbage, thinly sliced
Toss the noodles and cook until all the water has been absorbed or
100 g (31/2 oz) carrots, peeled and evaporated. Add a pinch of sugar, if desired. Add the crisp-fried onions
shredded and coriander leaves and toss lightly.
salt, to taste 4. Taste and seasoning with salt or fish sauce if necessary. Dish out and
4 Tbsp water serve hot.
150 g (51/3 oz) wheat noodles, NOTE
blanched
This dish is highly versatile and you can add seafood or meat if desired.
2 Tbsp light soy sauce Add the seafood or meat together with the vegetables and stir-fry until
cooked before adding the noodles.
a pinch of sugar, op onal
If the noodles are too dry, add a little shallot-infused oil and toss lightly
2 Tbsp crisp-fried onions before dishing out.
a handful of chopped coriander leaves
(cilantro)
174

Desserts are the sweet course that concludes a meal and it
usually consists of sweet foods, but may include other items like
fruit. In Myanmar, desserts are not a big feature. When having
a daily meal at home, the locals do not always have dessert,
although it is customary when entertaining guests or giving a
charity feast to include dessert, and I have included some of the
traditional recipes here.
Apart from fruits of various kinds, the most common dessert
is lephet thoke (pickled tea leaf salad), page 116, served with
roasted sesame seeds, peanuts, yellow lentils and crisp-fried
garlic, and a small amount of dried prawn (shrimp) powder. Lephet
can be served as a salad or a snack after dinner. It is thus difficult
to classify it as a dessert or a salad or filler between meals. But
whatever its classification and whenever it is served, it is delicious.
Another popular dessert, sanwin makin (a rich semolina pudding,
page 186), is served at feasts and on special occasions.
Many food stalls may also serve a complimentary dessert
with meals and this dessert is often just a piece of palm sugar
(jaggery). There are many types of palm sugar available in
Myanmar, and they are not only reasonably priced, but delicious,
making this a popular dessert enjoyed in many rural homes.

Sweets &
Desserts
Kyauk Kyaw (Coconut Agar-agar) 178

Shwe Yin Aye (Agar-agar Sago Dessert) 180
Thagu Pyin (Palm Sugar Sago) 182
Mote Lone Yay Paw (Rice Flour Balls) 184
Sanwin Makin (Semolina Pudding) 186
Faluda (Sweet Dessert Drink) 188
Moh Let Saung (Coconut Milk with Sago) 190
Bein Mont (Myanmar Pancake) 192

Kyauk Kyaw
Coconut Agar-agar Serves 6–8
This refreshing agar-agar is one of the most popular desserts in Myanmar. It is traditionally prepared using
only coconut milk. When left to set, the coconut milk will rise to the top, leaving a translucent layer at the
bottom, creating a pretty two layer sweet. It can also be made a little different by adding chocolate or a variety
of fresh or canned fruit, or made colourful by adding food colouring to the mixture and setting it in layers.
12 g (2/5 oz) agar-agar powder 1. Place the agar-agar powder, coconut milk, sugar and salt in a saucepan
500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) coconut milk and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the agar-agar powder
and sugar are dissolved.
55 g (2 oz) sugar
2. Pour the mixture into a heatproof container and leave to set at room
a pinch of salt temperature. I used a 15-cm (6-in) square tray.
3. When the agar-agar is set, cover and refrigerate to chill.
4. Slice and serve. The texture of the agar-agar should be firm and you
should be able to pick the slices up easily with fingers.
NOTE
If fresh coconut milk is not available, canned coconut milk makes a good
substitute.
The instructions on the packet of agar-agar powder may specify more water,
but I prefer to use less water so the agar-agar will have a firm texture.
178

Shwe Yin Aye
Agar-agar Sago Dessert Serves 4–6
Literally translated, shwe yin aye means golden heart cooler. This traditional dessert, made up of glutinous
rice, agar-agar, chendol jelly, sago and bread, and served in syrup, is very simple to prepare. It is a favourite
dessert served during Thingyan (the Water Festival) and it also makes an excellent refreshing dessert during
the hot summer months. Chendol jelly is available from Asian markets and supermarkets.
3–4 slices white bread, cut into 1. Prepare the glutinous rice. Place the glutinous rice in a mixing bowl.
quarters Cover with water and leave for at least 6 hours or overnight. When
4–6 Tbsp chendol jelly ready to cook, fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil over high
heat. Get ready a bamboo steamer that will fit nicely over the pot.
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) coconut milk Line the bamboo steamer with a sheet of cheesecloth. Drain the
crushed ice, as needed glutinous rice and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Pour the rice onto
the cheesecloth in the steamer. Cover the bamboo steamer with the
GLUTINOUS RICE lid and place over the pot of boiling water. Let steam for 20 minutes.
1 cup glu nous rice Remove the bamboo steamer from the heat and let the rice sit for
10 minutes before serving.
a pinch of salt
2. Prepare the sago. Rinse the sago briefly and place in a saucepan
SAGO with the water. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for
15–20 minutes until the sago is translucent and there are no white
1 cup sago pearls
centres. Add the colouring, if using and mix well. Pour the sago into
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water a flat pan and leave to cool and set.
a few drops of green food colouring, 3. Prepare the agar-agar. Place the agar-agar powder, water, rose essence
op onal and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring
until the agar-agar powder and sugar are dissolved. Pour the mixture
AGAR AGAR into a heatproof container and leave to set at room temperature.
12 g (2/5 oz) agar-agar powder I used a 10-cm (4-in) square tray. When the agar-agar is set, cover
375 ml (12 fl oz / 11/2 cups) water and refrigerate to chill. Slice.
a few drops of rose essence 4. Prepare the sugar syrup. Place the water and sugar in a saucepan and
bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate to chill
1 Tbsp sugar before serving.
SYRUP 5. To serve, place 3 pieces of bread, 1 Tbsp glutinous rice, 1 Tbsp sago,
2–3 slices of agar-agar and 1 Tbsp chendol jelly in each serving dish.
Add the coconut milk and sweeten with sugar syrup to taste. Serve
200 g (7 oz) sugar with crushed ice.
180

Thagu Pyin
Palm Sugar Sago Serves 4–6
Sago features in many desserts in Myanmar like this one. There are several variations of this particular
dessert and I have chosen a simple one to share. This light, scrumptious dessert will make a good sweet
course, served at the end of a meal or as a refreshing snack.
200 g (7 oz) palm sugar 1. Place the palm sugar and 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) water in a
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) water saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
1 cup small sago pearls 2. Rinse the sago briefly and place in another saucepan with the
remaining 500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) water. Bring to a boil and cook
1 coconut, grated until the sago is translucent and there are no more white centres.
a pinch of salt Add the palm sugar syrup and continue to cook until the mixture
is thick.
3. Pour the mixture into a lightly oiled shallow tray. Leave to cool
and set.
4. Place the grated coconut in a mixing bowl. Add a pinch of salt and
mix lightly.
5. Cut the sago into cubes or diamond shapes and serve with grated
coconut.
182

Mote Lone Yay Paw
Rice Flour Balls Makes about 20 balls
Literally translated, the name of this dessert, mote lone yay paw, is round snack floating in water. They are
small glutinous rice dumplings stuffed with palm sugar. This recipe also has many variations. When cooking the
rice balls, you can use coconut milk or water. I have chosen water, as it still tastes delicious and is not as rich.
4 cups glu nous rice flour 1. Combine the glutinous rice flour, rice flour and salt in a bowl and mix
1
/2 cup rice flour well. Make a well in the centre and add water gradually, stirring until
the mixture has the consistency of soft dough.
1 tsp salt
2. Chop the palm sugar into bite-size pieces.
water, as needed
3. Pinch a small portion of the dough and roll it into a ball using the palm
360 g (12 oz) palm sugar
of your hands. Flatten it slightly and place a piece of palm sugar in
1 coconut, grated the centre. Bring the edges of the dough up to seal and roll into a ball
again. Repeat until the ingredients are used up.
4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop the balls gently into the
boiling water. The balls are cooked when they float. Remove the
floating balls using a perforated ladle and place in a bowl of iced
water to prevent them from sticking together.
5. Serve with grated coconut.
184

Sanwin Makin
Semolina Pudding Makes one 15 x 10-cm (6 x 4-in) pudding
I often prepare this dessert for potluck meals as it can be prepared ahead and kept refrigerated. Simply
warm the pudding in an oven preheated to 180°C (350°F) for about 10 minutes before serving. Although the
traditional dessert is prepared using eggs, my preference is to do without the eggs, so even those who do not
eat eggs can enjoy this as well.
200 g (7 oz) semolina 1. Heat a pan over low heat and dry-fry the semolina until golden brown.
750 ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups) coconut milk 2. Add the coconut milk, sugar, butter and salt to the pan and cook over
150 g (5 /3 oz) sugar
1 medium-low heat, stirring constantly for about 20 minutes until the
mixture starts to come away from the pan
11/2 Tbsp bu er
3. Pour the mixture into a lightly oiled baking tray. I used a 15 x 10-cm
a pinch of salt
(6 x 4-in) tray. Spread the mixture out and smoothen the surface with
2 tsp white poppy seeds, op onal the back of a metal spoon, dipped first in water. Sprinkle the poppy
seeds over the top.
4. Place the tray under the grill and brown for 5–7 minutes.
5. Leave to cool before cutting. Serve at room temperature. This pudding
will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
186

Faluda
Sweet Dessert Drink Serves 4
There are many variations of this dessert throughout Asia, but they are very different from the one I used
to enjoy as a child. I have fond memories of going out at night after dinner to Mogul Street and having this
fabulous dessert. It is a cold concoction of sweetened milk, ice cream, sago and nuts. Colourful and refreshing,
you can enjoy a different mouthful of flavour with every bite.
1 packet strawberry jelly crystals or 1. Prepare the custard. Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F). Grease a
other flavour of your choice 15-cm (6-in) square ovenproof dish.
rose syrup, as needed 2. Heat the milk in a pan over medium heat. In a mixing bowl, whisk
1
/2 cup cooked sago (page 182), together the eggs, sugar and salt. Add this gradually to the pan,
coloured pink, if desired whisking all the time. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and
bake for 20–25 minutes or until the custard is set and the top is
1
/2 cup chendol jelly golden brown.
1
/2 cup crushed roasted peanuts
3. Prepare the strawberry jelly according to the instructions on the
1
/2 cup sultanas, op onal packet. Leave to set.
1.5 litres (48 fl oz / 6 cups) milk, chilled 4. To serve, place 1 tsp rose syrup, 1 Tbsp strawberry jelly, 1 Tbsp sago,
4 scoops vanilla ice cream 1 Tbsp chendol jelly and 1 Tbsp custard into serving glasses. Add
1 tsp peanuts and 1 tsp sultanas, if using. Fill with milk until about
CUSTARD three-quarters full, then top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Serve
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) milk immediately.
2 eggs
1 Tbsp sugar
a pinch of salt
188

Moh Let Saung
Coconut Milk with Sago Serves 4–6
This is more a drink than a dessert, but it is the perfect sweet drink for hot days. This delicious concoction is
readily available from street vendors throughout Yangon and many years ago, the street vendors would come
around to the residential areas. We would rush out whenever we heard the vendor and we could ask for more
palm sugar or coconut milk to make the drink tastier. Depending on your preference, you can make this drink
with sago or chendol jelly, and serve it with or without coconut milk.
2 cups chendol jelly 1. Prepare the palm sugar syrup. Place the palm sugar and water in a
ice cubes, as needed saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the palm
sugar is dissolved. Strain to remove any impurities if necessary. Leave
1 litre (32 fl oz / 4 cups) coconut milk to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to chill.
PALM SUGAR SYRUP 2. To serve, spoon some chendol into serving glasses and add palm sugar
syrup to taste. Add a few ice cubes and fill the glasses with coconut
500 g (1 lb 1 /2 oz) palm sugar
1
milk. Alternatively, omit the coconut milk and use water.
3. Serve immediately.
190

Bein Mont
Myanmar Pancake Makes 8–10 pancakes
This pancake has a lovely bite to it, being cooked with grated coconut, crushed peanuts, poppy seeds and
sesame seeds. Like all desserts in Myanmar, it is often eaten as a snack between meals rather than after a
meal. These pancakes are popularly sold by street vendors, and I remember standing by the street, waiting
in queue for these pancakes, then eating them piping hot out of newspapers which the vendors used to
wrap the pancakes in! These pancakes can be quickly put together if you have all the ingredients on hand.
My mother used to whip these pancakes up in a few minutes whenever we had unexpected guests.
11/2 cups rice flour 1. Sift the rice flour, glutinous rice flour, baking powder and salt into
1 cup glu nous rice flour a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the palm sugar syrup and
water. Mix until a smooth batter is formed.
11/2 tsp baking powder
2. Heat a frying pan over medium heat. Brush the pan with a little oil.
a pinch of salt
3. Using a small ladle, pour a spoonful of batter into the pan. Sprinkle
4 Tbsp palm sugar syrup, or to taste
with some grated coconut, poppy seeds, sesame seeds and crushed
(page 190)
peanuts. When the batter has set and is golden brown on the
500 ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups) water underside, flip the pancake over to cook the other side. Repeat until
cooking oil, as needed the ingredients are used up.
3
/4 cup grated coconut 4. Serve hot.
1
/2 cup white poppy seeds
1
/2 cup roasted white sesame seeds
3
/4 cup crushed roasted peanuts
192

If you walk along the streets of Myanmar on a sunny day, you will
see women sitting under thatched roof huts with big woks half-
filled with sizzling oil, frying fritters of different shapes and sizes,
prepared from a variety of vegetables, lentils, beans, fruit and even
small prawns.
Placed around the hut would be low tables, each with a pot of
hot tea, teacups, a plate of lettuce and coriander leaves (cilantro)
and a small dish of sauce made from chillies, garlic and tamarind.
Customers sit themselves at these low tables and sip the hot tea
while waiting for the fritters, which they will enjoy eating with the
lettuce, coriander leaves and sauce.
It is a treat to watch the fritters swimming in the smoking hot
oil as the wood fire crackles underneath the wok. These fritters
are best eaten fresh from the wok, amid the heat and aroma of
frying. I used to enjoy sitting under these huts with my siblings and
cousins, and eating the hot fritters while watching the world go by.
Sometimes, if we were in a hurry, we would pack the fritters and
bring them home, but they would be limp and cold by the time we
got home.

Snacks &
Finger Food
Pei Kyaw (Channa Dhal FriƩers) 198
Boothee Kyaw (Fried Gourd) 198
Kyethun Kyaw (Onion FriƩers) 199
Fish FriƩers (Ngephe Kyaw) 199
Bayagyaw (Spiced Yellow Pea FriƩers) 200
Natpyew Thi Kyaw (Banana FriƩers) 200
Pazun Kyaw (Prawn FriƩers) 201
Pe Pyot (Boiled Yellow Peas) 201

Natpyew Thi Kyaw
Banana Fritters
Kyethun Kyaw
Onion Fritters
Pazun Kyaw
Prawn Fritters
196

Bayagyaw
Spiced Yellow Pea Fritters
Boothee Kyaw
Fried Gourd
Pe Pyot
Boiled Yellow Peas
Ngephe Kyaw
Fish Fritters
Pei Kyaw
Channa Dhal Fritters
197

Pei Kyaw
Channa Dhal Fritters Makes 2–3 large fritters
These thin, round crisps are studded with golden yellow channa dhal. They are delicious on their own or
crumbled into a bowl of hot mohinga (page 168).
1
/3 cup channa dhal 1. Start preparations a day ahead. Place the channa dhal in a large
bowl and cover with water. Leave to soak for at least 8 hours.
4 Tbsp rice flour
Drain well before using.
1
2. When ready to cook, mix the rice flour, turmeric and salt with the
1
/4 tsp salt water. Add the channa dhal and stir to mix.
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) water 3. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
cooking oil for deep-frying hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
if bubbles form around the chopstick.
4. For each fritter, spoon about 3 Tbsp of the mixture into the oil.
Deep-fry until golden, then remove and drain on absorbent paper.
Repeat until the mixture is used up. Serve hot.
Boothee Kyaw
Fried Gourd Makes 4–6 fritters
This can be said to be Myanmar’s equivalent of British fish and chips. As students at the university, my
siblings, cousins and I would stop by at the corner shop for this whenever we were hungry for a snack after
lessons or after shopping. The fritters would be prepared on the spot, then wrapped in newspaper and
dribbled with hot and sour chilli sauce. These fritters are often added to mohinga (page 168), and can also
be enjoyed as a side dish or on its own.
125 g (41/2 oz) bo le gourd 1. Peel and slice the gourd into sticks, roughly the size of fingers.
3 Tbsp rice four 2. Mix the rice flour and glutinous rice flour in a bowl. Make a well in the
1 Tbsp glu nous rice flour centre and add water gradually, mixing until a thick batter is formed.
water, as needed 3. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
4. Dip a piece of gourd into the batter and slip it into the hot oil. Repeat
with the rest of the ingredients, being careful not to let the pieces of
gourd stick together. Deep-fry until golden brown. Remove and drain
on absorbent paper. Serve hot.
NOTE
If bottle gourd is not available, you can use chayote (choko) or courgette
(zucchini).
198

Kyethun Kyaw
Onion Fritters Makes 3–4 fritters
These crispy onion fritters are an essential garnish for the traditional dish of mohinga (page 168). They can
also be enjoyed on their own with a chilli dip.
4 Tbsp rice flour 1. Mix the rice flour, glutinous rice flour, self-raising flour and chickpea
1 Tbsp glu nous rice flour flour in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and add water a little
at a time, mixing until a smooth but thick batter is formed. Leave the
4 Tbsp self-raising flour batter to rest in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
1 Tbsp chickpea flour 2. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup) water hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
or as needed if bubbles form around the chopstick.
cooking oil for deep-frying 3. Remove the batter from the refrigerator and stir in the salt. (Add the
1
/2 tsp salt salt only when you are ready to use the batter or it will become runny.)
2 large onions, peeled and cut into 4. Dip a small handful of the onions into the chilled batter and coat well.
wedges Spoon into the oil and deep-fry until golden brown. Remove and drain
on absorbent paper. Repeat until the mixture is used up. Serve hot.
Ngephe Kyaw
Fish Fritters Makes 6–8 fritters
These delicious and flavourful fish fritters will complement any meal. It is added to mohinga (page 168), but it
can also be served in a salad or even a curry.
450 g (1 lb) fish, such as featherback, 1. Clean and fillet the fish. (You can get the fish monger to do this for
cod, kingfish or flounder you.) Scrape the flesh.
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced 2. Using a pestle and mortar or a blender, pound or process the fish
1 tsp grated ginger with the garlic, ginger, turmeric, chilli flakes and salt into a paste.
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric 3. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
1
/2 tsp chilli flakes
salt, to taste
4. Moisten your hands with water, then scoop up some of the fish
cooking oil for deep-frying mixture and shape it into a patty. Gently lower the fish patty into
the hot oil and deep-fry until golden brown. Repeat until the paste is
used up. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. Serve hot.
199

Bayagyaw
Spiced Yellow Pea Fritters Makes 6–8 fritters
The green chillies and cumin used to flavour these fritters are clear indicators of the Indian influence on this
recipe. These fritters can be served as part of a meal or as a snack on its own, with a cup of tea or coffee.
1 cup dried yellow split peas 1. Start preparations a day ahead. Place the split peas in a large bowl
1 onion, peeled and chopped and cover with water. Leave to soak for at least 8 hours.
1
/4 cup chopped coriander leaves 2. Drain the split peas and place in a blender. Process coarsely and
(cilantro) transfer to a bowl. Add the onion, coriander leaves, chillies, chickpea
flour, cumin, turmeric and salt. Mix well. Add water a little at a time
2 green bird’s eye chillies, finely to achieve a thick batter that can be shaped.
chopped
3. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is hot
enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
(page 215)
1
/2 tsp ground cumin
4. Using a teaspoon, scoop up some of the mixture. Form it into a ball
1
/2 tsp ground turmeric and flatten it slightly. Drop the mixture gently into the hot oil. Repeat
salt, to taste until the ingredients are used up.
4 Tbsp water, or as needed 5. Deep-fry until golden brown. Remove and drain on absorbent paper.
cooking oil for deep-frying Serve hot.
NOTE
Add the salt only when you are ready to use the batter or it will
become runny.
Natpyew Thi Kyaw

Banana Fritters Makes 8 fritters
Banana fitters are popular all over South East Asia and each country has their own version of the fritter. In
Myanmar, banana fritters are made using a variety of bananas called phee gyan, which have a firm texture
and are very sweet when ripe.
1 cup rice flour 1. Mix the rice flour, tapioca flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Make a well
1
/2 cup tapioca flour in the centre and add the water gradually, mixing until a thick but
smooth batter is formed.
2 Tbsp sugar
2. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
1
/2 tsp salt hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
180 ml (6 fl oz / 3/4 cup) water if bubbles form around the chopstick.
4 bananas, peeled and halved 3. Dip a slice of banana into the batter and slide it into the hot oil.
lengthways Repeat with the remaining bananas. Deep-fry until golden brown,
cooking oil for deep-frying then remove and drain on absorbent paper. Serve hot.
200

Pazun Kyaw
Prawn Fritters Makes 6–8 fritters
This is a lovely way to savour prawns (shrimps). Coated in batter and fried until crisp, they are sweet and
succulent. Serve this as a snack or as part of a main meal.
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 1. Place the garlic, ginger, chickpea flour, self-raising flour and ground
1
/2 tsp grated ginger turmeric in a bowl and mix well. Make a well in the centre and add
the water gradually, mixing until a smooth batter is formed. Add the
1
/2 cup roasted chickpea flour prawns and mix well.
1
/2 cup self-raising flour 2. Heat the oil for deep-frying over medium heat. To test if the oil is
1
/4 tsp ground turmeric hot enough, dip a dry wooden chopstick into the hot oil. It is ready
6 Tbsp water if bubbles form around the chopstick.
salt, to taste 3. For each fritter, spoon about 1 Tbsp of the mixture into the oil. Deep-
fry until golden brown, then remove and drain on absorbent paper.
500 g (1 lb 11/2 oz) small prawns Serve hot.
(shrimps), heads removed, but le
unpeeled
cooking oil for deep-frying
Pe Pyot
Boiled Yellow Peas Serves 6–8
These yellow peas are normally served for breakfast and can be easily bought from street vendors who start
peddling them very early in the morning. The vendors usually make only a basketful of the peas for sale each
day, so you have to be early or it will be all sold out. These boiled yellow peas can be eaten as they are, or
added to fried rice or cooked with fried onions and served with naan. Most Indian grocery stores will carry
these yellow peas, also known as vanata in Gujarati.
4 cups yellow peas 1. Start preparations two days ahead. Place the yellow peas in a large
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda bowl and cover with water. Leave to soak for at least 8 hours.
2 tsp salt 2. Drain the peas in a large colander and place the colander on a plate.
Cover the peas with a wet towel and set aside for about 36 hours or
2 tsp sugar until the peas start to sprout.
2 Tbsp cooking oil
3. Place the peas in a large pot. Add the bicarbonate of soda, salt, sugar,
750 ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups) water oil and water. Bring to a boil over high heat.
4. Reduce to low heat, cover the pot and simmer for 45 minutes or until
the peas are tender and all the water has evaporated. Stir the peas
once or twice while simmering to check the water level and doneness
of the peas. Serve warm.
201

Relishes & Dips
Unlike western meals, meals in Myanmar are not served

course by course. Instead, the dishes for the meal are
placed on the dining table for all to share. Served together
with these dishes would be small saucers of relishes, pickles
and dips, and it is these extra dishes that make the meal so
interesting and a pleasure as you are able to taste mouthful
after mouthful of different flavours and textures.
All these relishes, pickles and dips have different
flavours, from garlicky and mild, sweet and sour, to spicy
and hot. Depending on the mood and expertise of the cook,
these relishes, pickles and dips can also be very creative and
different. With the basic ingredients of garlic, ginger, sugar,
lime, coriander leaves (cilantro), mint leaves and chillies
among others, the cook comes up with his own creations.
My mother was very good at doing that and we never
knew just what we would be getting for our meals, except
that it would always be delicious.

Kha Yan Chin Thee Pan Htway Hpyaw
(Grilled Tomato Relish) 204
Chet Thun Ni Thamayathee Thoke
(Onion and Lime Relish) 205
Balachong (Crisp-fried Dried Prawns) 206
Kyet Thun Phyu Chin (Sharp Garlic Dip) 207
Achin Yei (Sour Dipping Sauce) 208
Ngayouk Thi Daung (Dried Chilli Paste) 209
Thayet Thee Thanak (Mango Pickle) 210

Kha Yan Chin Thee Pan Htway Hpaw
Grilled Tomato Relish Makes about 1 cup
The tomato is loaded with all kinds of health benefits for the body. As an ingredient, it is highly versatile and
can be included in most meals. The people of Myanmar have always recognised the value of the tomato
and it has become a favourite ingredient in the cuisine. Grilling the tomatoes gives this relish a lovely smoky
flavour, but you can create a different flavour by boiling the tomatoes as well. To make this a vegetarian
relish, omit the dried prawn (shrimp) powder and the fish sauce.
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced 1. Place the onion in a bowl of water and set aside for about 30 minutes.
6 ripe tomatoes Drain well and squeeze dry, then chop.
4 green chillies 2. Grill the tomatoes and green chillies over a charcoal fire or under the
grill until the skins are charred. Peel the tomatoes and remove the
1 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) powder seeds. Place in a bowl.
(page 215)
3. Peel the chillies and remove the stems and seeds. Mash with the
4 Tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves
tomatoes. Add the chopped onion, dried prawn powder, coriander
(cilantro)
leaves and fish sauce. Taste and season with salt if necessary.
1 Tbsp fish sauce
4. Serve at room temperature.
salt, to taste
204

Chet Thun Ni Thamayathee Thoke
Onion and Lime Relish Makes about 1 cup
This simple mixture goes well with many dishes such as fried rice, biryani or noodles. It’s a handy relish that
can be quickly whipped up to jazz up any meal.
1 large onion, peeled and sliced 1. Place the onion in a bowl of water and set aside for about 30 minutes.
3 bird’s eye chillies, sliced Drain well and squeeze dry, then chop.
1 lime 2. Place the chopped onion in a bowl with the chillies. Squeeze the lime
over it and mix well. Add salt to taste.
salt, to taste
NOTE
Coriander leaves (cilantro) or mint may also be added to this relish. If
preferred, other variations include adding crushed peanuts, grated ginger
and light soy sauce.
205

Balachong
Crisp-fried Dried Prawns Makes about 1 cup
Balachong is probably the most popular condiment in Myanmar. In my home, we call it the lifesaver, as we
need not fear going hungry as long as we have a jar of it in the larder or freezer! It can be served as a relish
and sprinkled over soups, salads and one-dish meals, but is also excellent eaten alone with plain rice, bread
or toast. You may make the relish spicier by adding more chilli flakes, but to me, 2 teaspoons is sufficient to
stimulate the taste buds without overdoing it.
1
/2 tsp dried prawn (shrimp) paste, 1. Mix the dried prawn paste with the tamarind liquid.
op onal
2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the paprika, chilli
2 Tbsp tamarind liquid (page 214) flakes and turmeric and stir-fry over for 1 minute.
2 Tbsp cooking oil 3. Add the dried prawn powder and mix well. Add the tamarind liquid
1 tsp paprika and stir-fry for 1 minute.
1–2 tsp chilli flakes 4. Add the crisp-fried shallots and crisp-fried garlic and stir quickly to
1
/8 tsp ground turmeric mix. Remove from the heat.
1
/2 cup dried prawns (shrimp) powder 5. Leave to cool before serving. Store in an airtight jar. To keep this
(page 215) indefinitely, store it in the freezer.
1
/2 cup crisp-fried shallots (page 214)
2 Tbsp crisp-fried garlic (page 214)
206

Kyet Thun Phyu Chin
Sharp Garlic Dip Makes about 1 cup
Garlic plays a very important part of the cuisine in Myanmar. It is eaten raw, fried or roasted, and added to
salads and soups. This dip goes well with crisps or vegetable fritters.
1 garlic bulb, peeled and finely 1. Combine all the ingredients and serve as a dip.
pounded
NOTE
1
/2 tsp chilli powder
This is a basic dip and you can also add grated ginger, light soy sauce,
1
/4 tsp sugar coriander leaves (cilantro) and mint to it for a different flavour.
3 Tbsp vinegar
1
/4 tsp salt
207

Achin Yei
Sour Dipping Sauce Makes about 1 cup
The people of Myanmar are very fond of having different types of dips with their food. This easy dip can be
whipped up in seconds. If you want it a little sweeter, add more palm sugar, or if you prefer it more tangy,
increase the amount of tamarind liquid added—there are no hard and fast rules. Play around with these
ingredients, and add or omit according to taste.
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 1. Place all the ingredients except the bird’s eye chillies in blender and
1 tsp grated ginger process until smooth. Transfer to a saucer.
2 Tbsp tamarind liquid 2. Add the chillies and serve at room temperature.
1 Tbsp palm sugar
1 tsp sugar
2 tsp fish sauce
salt, to taste
paprika, to taste
1
/2 tsp chilli flakes
1–2 bird’s eye chillies, chopped
208

Ngayouk Thi Daung
Dried Chilli Paste Makes about 1 cup
This is one of my favourite condiments. Traditionally, each ingredient is deep-fried separately, then pounded,
but you can also put everything in a blender to quicken the process.
cooking oil for deep-frying 1. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the chillies and fry until
30 g (1 oz) dried chillies, or more crisp. Drain and set aside. Repeat to fry the garlic and dried prawns.
to taste, stems removed 2. Grill the tomato until the skin bursts and is charred. Peel and place
7 garlic cloves, peeled in a food processor with the dried chillies, garlic and dried prawns.
Process into a paste and season to taste with salt.
1
/4 cup dried prawns (shrimps)
3. Serve at room temperature.
1 tomato
salt, to taste NOTE
To make this dip vegetarian or vegan, omit the dried prawns.
209

Thayet Thee Thanak
Mango Pickle Makes about 11/2 cups
There is a story to this pickle. My friend, Rosebud, who kindly opened her home to us for the photography
session for this book, had someone by the name of Apana in her house. Apana came from India when he was
just 8 years old and lived with Rosebud’s family until he was 80 and has since passed on. He was a handyman
who could do almost everything. He learnt to make this pickle from a family recipe and taught Esther, who has
also been living in Rosebud’s home since she was a little girl, to make the pickle. Esther has been making this
pickle now for many years and runs a thriving business selling it. She very kindly agreed to share the recipe with
me. It is a truly scrumptious pickle that goes with almost everything.
500 g (1 lb 11/2 oz) green mangoes 1. Peel and cut the mangoes into 1.5-cm (3/4-in) cubes. Place in a bowl
2 Tbsp ground turmeric and rub with the turmeric and a pinch of salt. Set aside to dry in the
sun for a day.
salt, as needed
2. In a pan over low heat, dry-fry the mustard seeds, fenugreek and
3 Tbsp mustard seeds fennel separately. Leave to cool before grinding each spice into a
3 Tbsp fenugreek coarse powder. Rub the sun-dried mango with each of the spices
3 Tbsp fennel seeds and chilli powder.
2 Tbsp chilli powder 3. Place the mango into an earthen jar and add the oil. Cover the jar
with a muslin cloth and place in a sunlit place for 5–6 days.
350 ml (11 /3 fl oz) uncooked
2
sesame oil 4. After the mango has been left to sit for 5–6 days, stir the contents
once a day for 2 weeks to ensure that the mango pieces are always in
a handful of garlic cloves, peeled
contact with the oil. Add more oil as necessary.
5. The pickle is ready for serving after the 2 weeks. Dish out and garnish
with garlic cloves. Serve at room temperature.
210

211

Tamarind Liquid 214
Shallot-infused Oil and Crisp-fried Shallots 214
Garlic-infused Oil and Crisp-fried Garlic 214
Chilli-infused Oil 215
Roasted Chickpea Flour 215
Dried Prawn (Shrimp) Powder 215
Basic Recipes
Tamarind Liquid
Makes about 125 ml (4 fl oz / 1/2 cup)
1–2 Tbsp tamarind pulp 1. Soak the tamarind pulp in the warm water for 5 minutes.
125 ml (4 fl oz / /2 cup) warm water
1
2. Use your fingers to squeeze the pulp and mix it into the water. Strain
the liquid and discard any seeds and fibres.
3. Use immediately for optimum freshness. Adjust the consistency or
strength of the liquid to taste by adding more water.
Shallot-infused Oil and Crisp-fried Shallots

Makes about 180 ml (6 fl oz / 3/4 cup) shallot-infused oil and 1 cup crisp-fried shallots
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and
100 g (31/2 oz) shallots, peeled and fry until golden brown and crisp.
sliced into uniform pieces 2. Remove the pan from heat and immediately drain the shallot slices
and place on absorbent paper.
3. Reserve the shallot-infused oil. When the fried shallots and oil are
cool, store them separately in clean and dry airtight jars.
4. The oil will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator. The fried
shallots should be used within a week.
Garlic-infused Oil and Crisp-fried Garlic

Makes about 180 ml (6 fl oz / 3/4 cup) garlic-infused oil and 1 cup crisp-fried garlic
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and fry
100 g (3 /2 oz) garlic, peeled and sliced
1 until golden brown and crisp. Be careful as it will burn easily.
into uniform pieces 2. Remove the pan from heat and immediately drain the garlic and place
on absorbent paper.
3. Reserve the garlic-infused oil. When the fried garlic and oil are cool,
store them separately in clean and dry airtight jars.
4. The oil will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator. The fried garlic
should be used within a week.
214

Chilli-infused Oil
Makes about 200 ml (63/4 fl oz / 4/5 cup)
250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) cooking oil 1. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the chillies or
60 g (2 /4 oz) dried red chillies or
1 chilli flakes and cook, stirring, until the chillies or chilli flakes are just
chilli flakes beginning to turn dark. Be careful as it will burn easily.
2. Leave to cool completely before storing in a clean and dry airtight jar in
the refrigerator. The oil will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator.
Roasted Chickpea Flour

chickpea flour, as needed 1. To roast chickpea flour, heat a frying pan over very low heat. Add the
chickpea flour and fry until fragrant or until the flour turns slightly darker.
2. Leave to cool before storing in an airtight jar. Roasted chickpea flour will
keep for a couple of months.
Dried Prawn (Shrimp) Powder

250 ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup) cooking oil 1. To make dried prawn powder, rinse and drain the dried prawns, then
60 g (2 /4 oz) dried red chillies or
1 roast them in a dry wok.
chilli flakes 2. Leave the roasted dried prawns to cool, then place them in a food
processor and process until fluffy.
3. Store in a clean and dry airtight jar. Dried prawn powder will keep for
a couple of months in the refrigerator.
215

Glossary

Roselle Leaves
Pennywort
Snake Gourd
Bamboo Shoots
Winter Melon
Bottle Gourd
Drumstick and Drumstick Leaves
218

Fresh Herbs & Vegetables
Bottle Gourd Drumstick and Drumstick Leaves
This bottle-shaped melon has light green fuzzy skin and The fruit of the drumstick plant is long and thin, with
white flesh. The seeds of young bottle gourd can be deep ridges and knobs throughout its length. The skin is
cooked and eaten together with the flesh. Bottle gourd thick and fibrous, and the flesh is white and sweet. The
is available all year round. It is a common and important drumstick is often cooked in soups or in light fish curries.
part of the cuisine of Myanmar. The small and round leaves are often used in soups.
Snake Gourd Bamboo Shoots

Also known as Chinese cucumber, there are several Bamboo shoots are the young sprouts of the bamboo
varieties of this vegetable, all with slightly different plant and they thrive during the monsoon season in
skins. This long, thin gourd is bland tasting, but will Myanmar. These cream coloured shoots have a mild
readily absorb the flavours of the ingredients it is flavour and crunchy texture and are widely used in the
cooked with. The snake gourd plant thrives in warm cuisine. In the markets, the shoots are sold peeled and
climates and grows freely in Myanmar where it is used parboiled.
in many dishes. If buying bamboo shoots still with their outer
layers, peel to reveal the core, then parboil to remove
the shoot’s natural bitterness. If fresh bamboo shoots
Winter Melon
are not available, canned bamboo shoots make a good
The winter melon is a large fruit that is often sold sliced substitute.
at the markets, as it would be difficult for an average
family with four to six members to finish a whole winter
melon. The winter melon has pale green skin and white
Pennywort
flesh. When cooked, the white flesh turns translucent Pennywort is a leafy herb recognisable by its round
and is meltingly tender. It is often used in curries and leaves. It has a slightly bitter taste and is used in many
soups in Myanmar. dishes, from stir-fries, soups, salads, drinks and as part
of the to say sar (dippers), a plate of fresh raw and
blanched vegetables typically served with meals in
Roselle Leaves
Myanmar.
Part of the hibiscus family, the young leaves and tender
stems of the roselle plant are eaten both raw and
cooked in Myanmar. It is perhaps the most popular
vegetable in the country and you will find them in
salads, stir-fries and soups.
219

Tamarind Pulp
Palm Sugar
Dried Prawn (Shrimp) Powder
Black Sesame Seeds
Garam Masala
White Sesame Seeds

Dried Prawns (Shrimps)
220

Dried Herbs & Spices
Dried Prawns/Shrimps Palm Sugar
These sun-dried prawns are a store cupboard staple in Also known as jaggery, this natural sugar has an intense
Myanmar, providing an excellent source of flavour as well sweet caramel flavour and adds not just sweetness, but
as protein to daily meals. Dried prawns are available in a unique taste to foods it is used in. There are several
various sizes, and can range in colour from pink to orange. types of palm sugar and they may vary in shape and
They are an indispensable ingredient in soups and salads. colour, ranging from pellets and discs to cylinders, and
from cream to dark brown. The darker variety has a richer
Dried Prawn/Shrimp Powder flavour. Store in an airtight container in a cool dry place.
Dried prawn powder is made by roasting dried prawns, then
processing them in a food processor until fluffy. In Myanmar, Tamarind Pulp
ready-made dried prawn powder is available. A recipe is This dark brown pulp is from the pod of the tamarind
provided in the Basic Recipes section to make your own. tree. To use, the pulp is diluted in water and strained
Dried prawn powder is used to add both flavour and texture of any seeds and fibre, then added to dishes for a
to salads and other dishes. characteristic tart taste. Tamarind pulp is available still in
their pods or pressed into blocks.
Garam Masala
This aromatic spice mix originates from India and typically Sesame Seeds, Black and White
includes cloves, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom These tiny tear drop shaped seeds have a nutty flavour
pods, cumin seeds and bay leaves. The spices are roasted and a delicate aroma which can be enhanced by roasting.
before they are ground to enhance their flavour and Both raw and roasted sesame seeds are available. To
aroma. Garam masala is available in packet from or in roast your own, toss the seeds in a dry wok over low
spice bottles. heat being careful not to burn them. The seeds are ready
when they take on a light sheen and are fragrant. In the
cuisine of Myanmar, sesame seeds are added to salads
and desserts.
221

Shallot-infused Oil
Crisp-fried Shallots Chilli-infused Oil
Garlic-infused Oil
Fish Sauce
Dried Prawn
(Shrimp) Paste
Crisp-fried Garlic
222

Sauces , Oils & Pastes
Fish Sauce Crisp-fried Shallots and
Fish sauce is a thin, clear, brown liquid made by Shallot-infused Oil
fermenting small fish or anchovies in brine. This sauce Another essential condiment in Myanmar, crisp-fried
adds an additional dimension of flavour to dishes and shallots and shallot-infused oil can be made from frying
is popularly used as a seasoning in South East Asia. sliced onion in oil until golden brown and fragrant. Use
Some brands may be more salty than others, so add in cooking or as a table condiment. A recipe is provided
according to taste for the best results. in the Basic Recipes section.
Chilli-infused Oil Crisp-fried Garlic and

This is an essential condiment, adding both flavour Garlic-infused Oil
and heat to dishes. It can also be served as a table
Like crisp-fried shallots and shallot-infused oil, crisp-
condiment for diners to add according to taste. A
fried garlic and garlic-infused oil are also essential
recipe is provided in the Basic Recipes section.
condiments in the cuisine of Myanmar where they
are often used in cooking and as table condiments.
Dried Prawn (Shrimp) Paste A recipe is provided in the Basic Recipes section.
Made from fermented krill, dried prawn paste ranges in
colour from pink to dark brown and are available in blocks
and discs. This strong-smelling paste is used in moderate
amounts to add depth to meat, poultry and seafood
dishes as well as sauces. Roasting enhances its flavour.
To roast, dry-fry the dried prawn paste in a wok over
medium heat until dry, crumbly and fragrant.
223

Roasted Chickpea Flour
Sago
Yellow Peas
Red Lentils
Glutinous Rice Flour

Lab Lab Beans
224

Dry Ingredients
Roasted Chickpea Flour Lab Lab Beans
Also known as gram flour, this is made from grinding Also known as hyacinth bean and Egyptian kidney bean
roasted chickpeas or channa dal into a fine powder. among a host of other names, these cream coloured
Roasted chickpea flour is used in many salads in beans must be soaked overnight, then peeled before
Myanmar to bind the salad together. It is also used cooking in a fresh pot of water. Lab lab beans have a firm
as a thickening agent in soups. Both roasted and raw and dense texture when cooked, much like edamame or
chickpea flours are readily available in Myanmar, but soy beans.
it is not difficult to do. A recipe is provided in the
Basic Recipes section. Yellow Peas
These small dried yellow peas are a popular breakfast
Sago item in Myanmar. Like chickpeas, they have a delicious
Sago is made from an edible starch extracted from the nutty taste and a buttery flavour. To prepare, the peas
pith of the sago palm, which is then washed, dried and have to be soaked and sprouted, then simmered until
processed into flour or grains of various sizes. Opaque they are tender. Dried yellow peas are available from
white when raw, the boiled sago turns translucent and Indian grocery shops. Ask for vanata, the Gujarati name
has little flavour of its own. In the cuisine of Myanmar, for these peas.
sago is typically flavoured with palm sugar and coconut
milk and used to produce snacks and desserts. Glutinous Rice Flour
Ground from short-grain sticky rice, this white coloured
Red Lentils flour is used mainly in making snacks in Myanmar,
Red lentils may range in colour from gold, orange and producing treats that have a lovely elastic and chewy
red. Also known as Egyptian lentils, these sweet and texture. Glutinous rice flour is available in packets and
nutty lentils become mushy when cooked and are may sometimes be labeled sweet rice flour.
delicious in soups.
225

Weights
&
Measures

Quantities for this book are given in Metric and American (spoon and cup) measures.
Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 teaspoon = 5 ml, 1 tablespoon = 15 ml,
1 cup = 250 ml. All measures are level unless otherwise stated.
Liquid & Volume Measures Dry Measures
Metric Imperial American Metric Imperial
5 ml 1
/6 fl oz 1 teaspoon 30 grams 1 ounce
10 ml 1
/3 fl oz 1 dessertspoon 45 grams 11/2 ounces
15 ml 1
/2 fl oz 1 tablespoon 55 grams 2 ounces
60 ml 2 fl oz 1
/4 cup (4 tablespoons) 70 grams 21/2 ounces
85 ml 21/2 fl oz 1
/3 cup 85 grams 3 ounces
90 ml 3 fl oz 3
/8 cup (6 tablespoons) 100 grams 31/2 ounces
125 ml 4 fl oz 1
/2 cup 110 grams 4 ounces
180 ml 6 fl oz 3
/4 cup 125 grams 41/2 ounces
250 ml 8 fl oz 1 cup 140 grams 5 ounces
300 ml 10 fl oz (1/2 pint) 11/4 cups 280 grams 10 ounces
375 ml 12 fl oz 11/2 cups 450 grams 16 ounces, 1 pound
435 ml 14 fl oz 13/4 cups 500 grams 1 pound, 11/2 ounces
500 ml 16 fl oz 2 cups 700 grams 11/2 pounds
625 ml 20 fl oz (1 pint) 21/2 cups 800 grams 13/4 pounds
750 ml 24 fl oz 3 cups 1 kilogram 2 pounds, 3 ounces
1 litre 32 fl oz 4 cups 1.5 kilograms 3 pounds, 41/2 ounces
1.25 litres 40 fl oz (2 pints) 5 cups 2 kilograms 4 pounds, 6 ounces
1.5 litres 48 fl oz 6 cups
2.5 litres 80 fl oz (4 pints) 10 cups
Oven Temperature Length

°C °F Gas Regulo Metric Imperial
Very slow 120 250 1 0.5 cm 1
/4 inch
Slow 150 300 2 1 cm 1
/2 inch
Moderately slow 160 325 3 1.5 cm 3
/4 inch
Moderate 180 350 4 2.5 cm 1 inch
Moderately hot 190/200 375/400 5/6
Hot 210/220 410/425 6/7
Very hot 230 450 8
Super hot 250/290 475/550 9/10
227

About the Author
Mohana Gill, or Rose as she is known to friends, was born in the ancient
sea port of Pathein, a delta town of Myanmar. One of the earliest
Europeans to come to Myanmar was Ralph Fitch, a gentleman merchant of
London, who disembarked here in 1586 and described it as “a very pretie
Towne, and standeth very pleasantly, very well furnished with all things”.
Fitch called it Cosmin, apparently derived from its Mon name
Kawthamin; centuries later under the colonial rule it was called Bassein,
derived from the name Pathein. A rose by any name is sweet, and
Pathein-born Rose Mohana has the sweetness of nature to make friends
wherever she travelled or lived. And travelled and lived she did, from
various lovely spots in Myanmar with diverse cuisine and cultures to many
other countries. She went to school in Yangon at St John’s Convent and
later attended and worked at the Department of Commerce at Rangoon
University. She was granted a Colombo Plan scholarship to do a one-year
diploma in Industrial Administration at the University of Manchester and
two years later, another scholarship at the University of Toronto for her
MBA. She started work at the University of Malaya and there she met and
fell in love with Dr Satwant Singh Gill, a kidney specialist.
She taught at the University of Malaya until the first of her three
children was born. She then turned her energy and will to creating a
warm and gracious home for her family and wide circle of friends. Cooking
was her passion and she would serve dishes of her childhood, as well as
Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and Italian dishes to family and guests. She
travelled extensively and often visited Myanmar. Rose and her husband
were always mindful about a healthy diet for the family and to promote it
to others, she wrote two books, Fruitastic, which won The Special Award
of the Jury from the Gourmand World Cookbook, and Vegemania, which
won the Best Vegetarian Cookbook in the World award. To encourage
children to eat more fruits and vegetables, she followed with two books for
children, Hayley’s Fruitastic Garden and Hayley’s Vegemania Garden; both
have won awards, The Green Book Festival Award and the New England
Book Festival Award. Recently with a yearning for the cuisine of her home
town and country of birth, Rose has been visiting Myanmar, travelling to
the places she loves, seeking out old childhood friends and making new
ones—eating, cooking and sharing meals. Here, she presents recipes from
the cuisine she grew up with, shared with friends as schoolgirl and young
woman: the taste of home.
Ma Thanegi
Author and painter
228

Myanmar Cuisine, Culture Customs by Mohana Gill

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Cuisine , Culture & Customs

Myanmar: Cuisine, Culture & Customs

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“My mother’s best advice to me was: ‘Whatever you decide to do in life,

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Weights & Measures 226

About the Author 228

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FESTIVALS FOR CELEBRATION

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CULTURE AND BELIEFS

CUSTOMS AND PRACTICES

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DRESSING AND APPEARANCE

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Riverboats are the main means of

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In the flurry of activity that punctuates the markets in

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Thilashin (female novice nuns) literally

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While all Buddhist males are required

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The original Governor’s House was built in

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There is a popular expression in Myanmar:

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Young children bring their lunch to school

During the wet season which stretches

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Street vendors take their wares to bus

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Win Sein Taw Ya is the largest reclining

Another landmark of Mawlamyine is the

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Carriages drive through the Tharabar Gate