BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

ETHIOPIAN INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE AND FASHION

TECHNOLOGY
Textile manufacturing “1st year”

Assignment for the course advanced knitting

Prepared by: ID.NO

Yared Fikre------------------------------- BDU1402879

Submitted to: - Dereje.

Dec 04/02/2022

Bahir dar, Ethiopia

Knitting is broadly/primarily classified as weft knitting and warp knitting, based on the direction of
movement of yarn with respect to the direction of fabric formation.

 If the yarns run in the width or crosswise direction with reference to the direction of fabric
formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is called weft knitting.
 If the yarns run in the length direction with reference to the direction of fabric formation
during knitting, then the process of knitting is called warp knitting.

Figure 1 primary classification o knitting machine.

Warp knitting

Weft knitting Warp knitting

  Classification of weft knitting machine

Weft knitting machine

Fabric produce Garment produce

Beard needle Latch needle

Flat bed Circular bed

Non jacquard Jacquard Non jacquard Jacquard

Single jersey Duble jersey Single cylinder Duble cylinder

plain

Rib purl sock purl

Single tuck Multi tuck

dial cylinder

Figure 2 classification of weft knitting machine.

rib interlock
 Comparisons between weft and warp knitting
 The relative comparison between weft knitting and warp knitting based on (process, machine and
structure)
Sr/no Weft knitting
1 Loop formation take place course wise
in horizontal direction.
2 Yarn runs in horizontal or course
direction during knitting.
3 Needle knit sequentially in a knitting
cycles
4 Yarn is supplied generally in the form
of cone hold in creel.
5 Only few or one yarns(152 maximum)
is /are needed during knitting fabric
6 Staple yarn are preferably used but
filament yarn are not suitable.
7 Less preparatory process are required
before knitting.
8 Latch needle are used in all machine
9 Less variety of structure can be made
in the machine.
10 Change the pattern reduces the
machine speed.
11 Fabric have less aesthetic values
12 The fabric are more resilient and
suitable for inner and ladies garment.
13 Fabric are some uses as outer garment
as well as furnishing material.
14 Fabric have good stretch ability in both
direction, comparatively higher in
width direction.
15 Dimensional stability of fabrics are
lower.
16 Wide range of semi or full garment
length machine are available.
17 Machine may be circular or flat.
18 Circular machine in produces circular
fabric but both tabular and flat fabric
may produced in flat machine.
19 Weft insertion during loop formation is
not possible for producing highly
dimensional stable technical textile.
20 Tailoring difficult
21 Machine as well as the fabrics
Warp knitting
Loop formation take place wale wise in
vertical direction.
Yarn runs in vertical or wale direction during
knitting.
Needle knit altogether in a knitting cycles
Yarn is supplied generally in the form of warp
beam (number of beam may be 2 or more).
Large number of yarn are needed for knitting
fabric.
Filament yarn are mostly used but stable yarns
are nowadays used in some cases.
More preparatory process are required before
knitting.
Bearded needle are mostly used but latch
needle can also be used in some case.
Wide variety of structure can be made in the
machine.
Change the pattern does not reduces the
machine speed.
Fabric have more aesthetic values
The fabric are less resilient and not suitable for
inner garment.
Fabric are have much uses as outer garment as
well as furnishing material.
Fabric have low stretch ability in both
direction, comparatively higher in width
direction.
Dimensional stability of fabrics are higher.
Limited range of semi or full garment length
machine are available.
The machine are generally flat.
Mainly flat fabric are produced but limited
range of circular fabric can also be produced.
Weft insertion during loop formation is
possible for producing highly dimensional
stable technical textile.
Tailoring not difficult
Machine as well as the fabrics produced are
 produced are comparatively cheaper. comparatively costlier.

Table 1comparion between warp knitting and weft knitting.

Figure 3 example for weft knitting single jersey fabric structure.

Figure 4 example for warp knitting Atlas fabric structure.

Reference
 Fundamental and Advanced knitting technology edited by prof. sadhan Chandra ray
 The article: (1931) KNITTING MACHINE DEVELOPMENTS, Journal of the Textile
Institut