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SEED SAVING SECRETS: THE TECHNICAL GUIDE TO COLLECTING, CLEANING,

POLLINATING, GERMINATING OR SAVING SEEDS | BUILD A SELF-SUFFICIENT
FUTURE FOR YOUR FAMILY & YOUR GARDEN 

                              Introduction - Home Gardening.

                                                            
Self Sufficiency.

This concept relates to the notion of ably providing for one's needs without the aid of external
forces. Throughout the various phases of evolution that the world has come to face, self-
sufficiency has forced the creation of brilliant ideas, techniques, and innovations that seek to
positively alter our routine activities, and in the area of producing food, self-sufficiency has
taken on a more commonplace yet intimate level —home gardening.

Home gardening attends to man's basic need —the need to quell his hunger— and although the
industrialization of the globe has seen home gardening previously relegated to the pastime of
millennials, it is safe to say that the number of owners of vegetable gardens in places like the
United States has witnessed a significant increase in the last few years. Undoubtedly, this is not
unconnected to the COVID-19 pandemic that ravaged the world two years ago.

Due to the pandemic, about 18.3 million new home gardeners emerged in 2021, of which a
significant number of these new gardeners were millennials. Consumer behavior was visibly
impacted during the pandemic, as people had time to attempt other activities that intrigued them.
Out of this astronomical figure, the study by the National Gardening Association pointed out
there was a sixty-five percent increase in millennial gardeners, while there was a forty-four
percent increase in home gardeners from the younger generations —or Generation Z. The
statistics further showed that over forty-two percent of gardeners spent more time gardening in
2021 than they usually did, and for valid reasons, like the loss of a close one, the protection of
one's mental health, etc.

Indeed, home gardening has become an all-encompassing activity that can adequately cater to the
mental, physical and emotional aspects of any being, and with the consistent rise in the number
of home gardeners, I have deemed it pertinent that I share my wealth of knowledge garnered
over the last three decades on home gardening, specifically on the topic of planting, pollinating
and germinating seeds.

There are hundreds of mail seed companies in the United States —if not thousands of such
companies. These companies, as well as the various local outlets and grocery stores, cater to the
needs of over sixty million Americans that grow8 vegetable gardens in their respective houses.
These seeds are usually packaged and sent to their respective destinations by mail, resulting in a
healthy relationship between various home gardeners and these local outlets.

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But there is a significant minority that has deemed it necessary to bypass these outlets entirely by
saving seeds on a yearly basis. This minority tends to their gardens in the most traditional ways
—the ways learned from their forefathers. They plant the same vegetable varieties, carrying on
culture and tradition that may have been overwhelmed by the fast-paced advancement of the
global community. New converts to seed saving are taking a more radical approach towards seed
saving, keeping unique seeds found along their foray into home gardening.

Having been a passionate gardener for many years, it is disheartening —and quite frustrating too
— that there has been no comprehensive guide that expertly attends to all gardening needs on a
small scale. Rather, these pieces of information are more diverse —and in some, bizarre— areas
of discussions on pollination and crops are scattered across the Internet and in several libraries.

After extensive interlibrary research and a deep dive into my experiences as a home gardener, It
was glaring that someone needed to bell the cat; someone had to compile these prior pieces of
information in a way that attests to one's skill and vast knowledge. In that light, I decided to
write The Seed Saving Secrets.

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                               What is Seed Saving?
Seed saving is the unique process of storing seeds from one harvest in anticipation of the next
harvest. It is the system of various indigenous communities to ensure stronger and healthy-
looking harvests in the future.

Seed saving has been the practice of several indigenous communities over tens of thousands of
years. This practice paved the way for greater civilization amongst human beings, as the process
of saving and cultivating these seeds ensured that humans had more varieties of foods to enjoy.
Soon, the early gardeners discovered a pattern of cultivation. The early gardeners quickly
observed and learned that if they sowed seeds of a particular plant or vegetable, each plant would
have slight variations from the parent plant while still retaining the overall attributes of such
parent vegetables. This enabled the early gardeners to sift through the seeds that possessed
desirable traits from other plants or vegetables that showed otherwise. The less desirable plants
were eventually destroyed, and the process was known as "roguing."

Hundreds of generations of gardeners and horticulturists later, the technique and processes of
seed saving have been refined and modernized, giving birth to various plant-breeding programs.
This, in a way, sped up the gradual evolution of nature.

                                     Why Save Seeds?

Before looking at how  to save seeds, it is important to know why one should save seeds. There
are several factors that have been laid out as major reasons for which seed saving has been
inculcated in gardening.

The diversity of genetic resources is one major factor. The erosion of biodiversity continues to
limit the globe's ecological resilience to rapidly changing environments. FAO, which is The
United Nations Organisation for Food and Agriculture, has noted that the genetic resources of
various crops continue to disappear with a one to two percent yearly increase. Further, about
seventy-five percent of the diversity in agricultural crops is estimated to have been lost since the
beginning of the last century. Therefore, seed saving provides a light at the end of the tunnel for
farmers and, by extension, the world.

Also, the introduction of Argentina seed companies into the agricultural scene calls for more
attention toward seed saving. This is because these companies cannot be left to handle such an
important task. This doesn't hint at the fact of possible mixed seeds or even pork germination but
that these companies are primarily aimed at making profits. Thus, these companies often buy
their seeds from seed corporations and resell them.

Additionally, saving seeds is easy. Whether you are a greenhorn in gardening practice, or a
seasoned professional, saving seeds is a "one-stop shop" for securing healthy and strong crops.
                         Pollination & Flower Structure           
Just like a chef needing to know his onions, a seed saver needs to understand a few things about
plants and their reproductive abilities. However, plants are quite distinct from other organisms in
the sense that most plants carry both male and female reproductive organs. The male organ is

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known as the stamen and consists of one or two hair-like filaments. These so-called filaments
host a pollen-producing sac at its tip called an anther. The anther usually ripens after a certain
period of time and breaks open, exposing the pollen grains. 

The female section, on the other hand, is known as the pistil and contains a stigma —where
such pistil  germinates. It also contains a style and an ovary that often contains one or more
ovules, I.e., egg cells. The stigma  can vary in shape, ranging from just the tip of the style of a
tomato to a strand of cornsilk. The ovary is therefore fertilized when a fertile grain of pollen
touches a receptive stigma. Such pollen grain then creates a tube that allows it to eventually
fertilize the ovules within the ovary. This ovary then develops into a seedpod, simultaneously
fertilizing the plant ovules for future generations.

In order to ensure that the plants are of pure varieties, they must not be fertilized by other
contaminating varieties. After the pollen of the same variety of plants must have reached the
stigma of the plant, it must bridge the other contaminating varieties from reaching the stigma.
Otherwise, this leads to a "not-true-to-type- '' fruit seed. Further, flowers that have the male and
female flower on the same plant are called monoecious species —which literally stands for "one
house," while plants that produce different male and female plants are called Dioecious species
—"two houses."
                               Types of Pollination
There are several ways in which a plant can be pollinated. These include 
1. Self-Pollinated;
2. Insect-Pollinated and; 
3. Wind-Pollinated 

                   
Self-Pollinated Plants
This type of plant has fully functional male and female flower parts that reside within the same
flower and are commonly referred to as "perfect flowers." The fertilization of such perfect
flowers often takes place within the individual flower, negating the need for insects or wind to
trigger the fertilization of such plants. These plants —for example, peppers— are easily cross-
fertilized. Therefore, it is important that these plants must be grown in isolation or in screened
cages that eliminate the chances of cross-pollination.

However, as much as most flower plants can self-fertilize, there are other perfect flowers that
cannot fertilize themselves. The pollen that is produced in such flowers may not grow in the
flower style of the same plant but may grow in the style of another plant and generally depend on
insects to transport the pollen from one plant to another.

                 
Insect-Pollinated Plants 
For flowers that produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant are known as
"imperfect flowers" due to each blossom displaying the organ of only one sex. This type of
flower is found in the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes watermelons, cucumbers, etc. Also,

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like self-pollinated plants, insect-pollinated plants need to be grown in isolation, separated from
other varieties of their species. They can also be hand-pollinated to ensure the purest seeds.

One of the efficient insects that cross-pollinate vegetable crops is Honeybees. Honeybees are
covered with thick, branched hairs that brush against the anthers of the flowers while the bees
collect pollen and nectar. When the bee's body is covered with pollen, the bee stores them in
pollen baskets on its back legs.

However, the farther the distance of the hive from pollen and nectar, the fewer the bees that
forage for such pollen. Most bees are known to forage within one-quarter mile of their hive.
Although, if food is scarce, bees will travel significantly further from their hives. An example of
such bees is the Squash bees, which are known to travel for several miles.

Nearby pollen and nectar sources are discovered by worker bees, who engage in a dance-like
behavior that allows the hive to trail the direction to the pollen and nectar sources, as well as any
other information. After the rest of the hive receive such information, the worker bees exit the
hive and exhibit a behavior termed "flower constancy." This is the tendency to forage on flowers
of the same color and type rather than foraging on mixed colors and types.

Bees are truly a set of efficient and beneficial cross-pollinators of flowers. For instance, a worker
bee may have knowledge of a good pollen source in a certain direction from the hive. The pollen
source includes bright yellow flowers in a particular garden. But upon arrival, the bee may not
just only visit the bright yellow flowers but may also visit other flowers, efficiently cross-
pollinating such flowers.

Further, bumblebees, sweat bees, and wild solitary bees are useful in cross-pollination, as they
are also covered in pollen-collecting branched hairs. Although, these types are random in their
search for pollen and are not usually as diligent as honey bees. When a bumblebee, for instance,
wants to collect pollen, it hangs upside down from the flowers, shaking the pollen onto its body.
This is due to the large size that hinders it from accessing the inner parts of most vegetable
flowers. Bumblebees —as well as sweet and wild solitary bees— are minor pollinators of crops
in comparison to honey bees, but they also have the capacity to cross-pollinate flowers
significantly.

Also, Flies do not visit flowers that have their nectar within them but only visit flowers that have
their nectaries—which are the parts of a flower that secretes nectar— exposed. These flies have
hairy legs, which are capable of transferring pollen and, therefore, are capable of properly cross-
pollinating.

It should also be noted that other insects, such as moths and butterflies, are incapable of cross-
pollinating. These insects are covered with scales rather than hairs, causing the pollen to slide off
their scales, and have a long and delicate proboscis that make pollen transfer quite impossible.
Moreover, moths and butterflies do not collect food for nesting or even rearing their young, as
bees do for their hives. Moths and butterflies only consume the nectar.

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Finally, Wasps do not transfer pollen, except in rare cases. This is caused by their coarse spine
that has not adapted to the transfer of pollen.

                  
Wind-Pollinated Plants.
Several other plants depend on the efficiency of wind dispersal of pollen for such plants'
pollination. Pollen that is picked up by the wind can travel for several distances before it ends up
on another variety of plants.

One type of vegetable that is heavily dependent on wind pollination is corn. Corn pollen usually
appears in the corn's tassel, which is at the top of each corn stalk. The tassel also contains the
male part of the plant. So when the wind brushes through the plant, the pollen falls from the
tussles and onto the core's silks. These silks are the plant's female flowers.

                            What is Seed Sovereignty?

Seed sovereignty is the right that is bestowed on a farmer to use, save, sell and exchange his or
her own seeds. Seed sovereignty seeks to address the ownership of seeds. This is due to the fact
that seeds are rapidly becoming the property of various corporations and companies, hindering
the indigenous communities from saving unique, local seeds that have existed for ages within
their communities. Several policies and programs in different regions and jurisdictions cater to
such farmers' rights. 
             Various Techniques Used in H0arvesting, Extracting,
Cleaning, and Drying Seeds Properly.
                        Seed Harvesting and Extraction 

One essential rule about Harvesting is giving the seed enough time to mature as long as possible
on the plant without allowing the seed or fruit to become overly ripe or diseased. For the
different types of plants, there is an optimum time for collecting the seed, although various
factors must be taken into consideration. Such factors will include climate, weather, disease,
insects, and predatory mammals. Due to the above-stated factors, a gardener may be forced to
collect the seeds before the seed's period of harvest.

Before the period of harvest arrives, each crop or plant species undergoes certain characteristic
changes. These changes lead to the ripening of the seed, which is a clear indicator of the period
to harvest. A seed is prepared to be harvested or has reached what is known as "harvest maturity"
when it can be totally removed from the plant without hindering germination and seed vigor —
the ability to produce a healthy seedling.

As noted earlier, there can be early or late Harvesting of a seed. Late harvests mean that the
Harvesting of the seed was delayed beyond normal, which causes the seed to "dehisce," or in
other words, "split open" or "shatter."After it is split open, the seed falls to the ground or may be
eaten up by birds and animals. On the other hand, if the seed is harvested too early, i.e., when the
embryo of the seed is insufficiently developed, the seeds of the plant are bound to be light in

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weight, thick or shriveled, and short-lived. If the seeds are mechanically harvested, the seeds can
be severely damaged if the seed moisture at harvest is too dry.

Therefore, to determine a seed's maturity stage, the seeds are sampled. The seed moisture
percentage is also a clear indicator of seed maturity. Early seed harvesting may be advantageous
for certain crops or species of wood-like plants. These plants produce a hard seed covering upon
optimum maturity, coupled with a dormant embryo.

For one's home garden, Harvesting of crops may be done in the following forms:

When the harvest is a small-scale harvest, you strip the seeds into a bucket. After stripping the
seeds, you clip the individual pods into a bucket. Then, the seed heads are also clipped into a
bucket before you then uproot the entire plants and place them in buckets. Additionally, if your
home garden is a medium-sized home garden, you can barbet the seeds with dirt, uprooting the
entire plants and making long rows on dirt or a tarp.

                          
Seed Extraction 

Plants can be categorized into three separate types based on their fruit types. These include 

● Dry fruits that do dehisce at maturity; 

● Dry fruits that dehisce at maturity; 
● Plants with fleshy fruits. 

                      Fruits That Do Not Dehisce At Maturity 

Under this category, the seeds and fruit cover stick with each other at maturity. These fruits do
not split open, and seeds are not immediately dispersed after maturity has been attained. Most
agricultural crops fall under this category, including corn, wheat, and other types of grains. This
also includes oat nuts, hazel, and chestnut. These types of fruits, such as corn, can be extracted
and dried by hand and placed on a tray or canvas. If the plants are few, they can be cut and
placed upside down in a paper bag to dry properly after extraction.

                         Dry Fruits That Dehisce at Maturity 

Under this category, plants produce seeds that readily dehisce at maturity. Seeds in follicles,
capsules, cones, pods, etc., all fall under this category. Onions, cabbages, okra, etc., fall under
this category. Most cases require the gardener to harvest such crops even before they fully
mature. After they are harvested, they are then dried or cured before being extracted. This
process of drying may take between one to three weeks. They can be preserved in a paper bag to
dry, while some may need to go through a forced air drying procedure for quick drying. The
latter is usually common in places where humidity is high around the time of harvest.

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                                  Plants With Fleshy Fruits 
Under this category, we have vital fruits and vegetables such as berries, apples, plums, etc. We
also gave various tree and shrub species under this type of fruit. For extraction of such fruits in
your garden, one may cut the fruits open and scrape the seeds out. After that, the seeds are
treated in tubs, rubbed through screens, or washed in water gushing from a high-pressure spray
machine from a wire basket. Alternatively, a gardener may use an electric mixer or blender. This
device is useful as it removes the seeds from small-seeded fleshy fruits.

Using an electric mixer may be tricky, especially when one is trying not to falafel the seeds with
the device's blender. Therefore, the blenders can be replaced with rubber or Tygon tubing. After
fastening the rubber at the right angles, fruits and water are poured into the blender and
continuously stirred for about two minutes. After the pulp has been extracted from the seed, the
pulp is removed by a technique called "flotation." Flotation is the process of placing seeds and
pulp in a large volume of water. The healthy seeds then proceed to sink to the bottom of the
water while every other empty seed or extraneous material stays afloat.
      
                       
Cleaning Seeds 

There are several reasons for which a gardener cleans his seeds, chief among which include the
expansion of storage, the prevention of dampness as well as diseases. There are several
techniques used in cleaning seeds. These include: 

● Winnowing; 
● Threshing; 
● Particle size sorting by vibration; 
● Sieve and;
● Tumbleweed.
 
                      
Winnowing 
This technique of cleaning seeds is on the basis of the seed's chaff being lighter than the seeds
itself. The seeds and chaff are held in a container, such as a bowl or box. The bowl or box must
have sides that are high enough to enable swirling the seeds without spilling. Additionally, the
movement of air or wind over the bowl must be light, just enough to ensure that only the chaff is
brushed away by the breeze. When winnowing, it is best advised to undertake such a process
outside, as it may leave a trail of mess indoors.

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Threshing 
Another technique of cleaning seeds includes what is termed as "threshing" —where the
gardener separates the seeds from the pods, dry the seeds in a paper bag and crush the bag.
Certain seeds that have hard pods may need a good grinding or bashing, while some other seeds
neatly come out of their pods or capsules by simply tipping the stalk of pods over a paper bag.

                                  Particle Size Sorting By Vibration 

Also known as the technique of separating the chaff from the smaller or larger see, this technique
involves using a tray, with several sheets of paper in it. After that, you pour the seeds that are in
a sheet of paper into the tray through a sieve. You then begin to shake the incline sheet of paper
while pouring. This movement creates the vibration on the paper surface. This can also be
combined with winnowing for effective results. 

                          
Sieve 

Another technique of separating and cleaning seeds is through the use of a sieve. These sieves
can be in various sizes, and a combination of a large and small sieve can be used to separate
particles from large and smaller seeds. A bowl shaped kitchen sieve may be used to sieve and
winnow, simultaneously.

                        
Tumbleweed 

Tumbleweed is a unique technique for cleaning seeds. It involves dispersing the seeds by rolling
them along the ground in a breeze. Bulb inflorescences are shaped like a ball to enable the seeds
to fall out.

Additionally, cleaning wet seeds that are found in plants like tomatoes, eggplants, etc., may
require washing the seeds to clean them and further separate them from the surrounding pulp. In
certain cases, it is best for certain wet seeds to be fermented for several days. This removes the
germination-inhibiting substances from the seed coats. Fermenting further helps the seeds to kill
molds, mildew, and other disease-hosting organisms that may be present during the seed's
growth. After the seeds have been thoroughly washed, you can dry your seeds of excess moisture
in a strainer before putting them in a jar.

                                    Drying Seeds 
Drying seeds is a routine activity in the maturation process of seeds. Some seeds need to be dried
to a minimum level of moisture, before they can effectively germinate, as low seed moisture is a

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must-have for long-term storage of seeds. It is the most important factor when one considers the
longevity of seeds and water may hinder the longevity of such seeds. High seed moisture can
cause a number of problems for your seeds: 

● First, moisture is known to increase the respiration rate of your seeds 

which in turn, raises the seed temperature. 
● Secondly, moisture allows for mold growth on your seeds, and can damage the seeds quickly
or slowly depending on the moisture content. 
● Moisture allows weevils to breed, causing significant damage and destruction to your seeds.

                      Measures to Dry Seeds For Long-Term Storage 

                                                  
Silica Gel 
One of the most effective measures of drying seeds for long-term storage is silica gel. This is a
moisture-absorbing gel that is highly porous. Its porous nature allows for it to absorb moisture. It
can be gotten either in powdered form or in beads of different sizes. The best bead size for
drying Seeds is approximately 1/16" to ⅛" in diameter. 

A "colour indicating" silica gel is one form of gel that has been treated with a tiny amount of
cobalt chloride. This chloride acts as a moisture indicator. Therefore, when the indicator gel is
completely dry, it remains a deep blue colour. However, as the gel absorbs moisture from the air,
the colour gradually changes from deep blue to light pink.
  
                               How To Dry Seeds With Silica Gel

● To dry seeds with silica gel, the weight of the seeds must first be determined, as well as the
packets that contain the gel. The gel should be spread in equal weight, placing the seeds and the
gel in an airtight container for seven days. You should note that when drying seeds, keep the
container size small in relation to the volume of seeds being dried.

● Once the seven-day period has elapsed, the packets of seed must be removed from the drying
container and transferred into another airtight container. This is to prevent the re-absorption of
moisture by the seeds again.

Another advantageous feature of this gel is that it can be reused after it has absorbed moisture.
This usually involves heating the gel to drive away the moisture. The bead then returns to its
original color —deep blue. This form of drying the bed must be controlled. Aside from being left
alone, the bead turns black, indicating that the moisture-absorbent feature has been destroyed.
The heating of silica gel can be done in two forms:

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● Oven-drying method: Overdrying is tested to be the most efficient method of drying silica gel,
although it usually takes longer and uses more energy. The oven should be set to a temperature
of at least 200°F but no higher than 275°F, although you should bear in mind that some ovens
may run hotter than the set temperature. In order to dry the gel, you place the gel in a thick-
walled Pyrex dish, which should not be deeper than one inch. Then you continue to heat the
beads until they return to their original blue color. This method takes about one hour to about an
hour and a half per quart of gel.

● The next route of drying silica gel involves microwave-drying the gel. This method is much
fast than the prior mentioned method. However, it's be monitored to avoid overheating the gel.
To use this method, a thick-walled Pyrex container must be used. The microwave is set to
medium-high, and you would then allow the gel to heat for three to five minutes. The gel should
be monitored and should be stirred at the end of each heating cycle. Per ounce of gel, the drying
is estimated to be around eight to twelve minutes, although the actual heating of the gel is also
dependent on the type of microwave.

Certain precautionary measures should be further noted when trying to heat the gel. A Pyrex
container with thick glass should be used. If the glass is thin, the silica gel may cause the heads
to shatter once it gets very hot. For drying through the microwave, plastic microwave containers
should not be used, as they will melt in contact with the gel.

Also, I have noticed that a slightly pungent odor emanates from the gel during this process, and
this is caused by either overheating the gel or the evaporation of organic seed volatiles that have
been absorbed by the silica gel during the drying process. Although the silica gel itself is
odorless, non-corrosive, and non-toxic, breathing in such dust that stems from the powdered gel
can be hazardous under prolonged and reappeared exposure. For this reason, beads are apt for the
purpose of drying seeds.

     11 Common Mistakes To Avoid When Saving Seeds 

There are certain common rookie mistakes that can occur when you begin your home garden. I
have summarised some of these mistakes into eleven points. 

● Incorrect Placing of Seeds: When you place your seeds incorrectly can lead to the
abandonment of such seeds. Your seeds should be planted in full view of particular locations that
you regularly head to in your home or garden. Ideal places to keep your plants include
countertype, tables, greenhouses, window sills, or just a separate seed sowing space in your
garden. 

One pro tip— As you plant your seeds, it is best to label your seeds amd include the dates you
sowed them. This makes for easy monitoring and also helps you calculate the expected
germination date. As a rookie, you may become confused as to the type of seedling that was once
planted there. This is where plant tags come in.

● Wrong Soil: Seeds are very sensitive to the type of soil in which they are placed. For instance,
garden soils may expose such plants to pests and pathogens. Therefore, it is always best to use a

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seed starting mix or soilless growing medium that does not have a concentration of certain
components. 

● Deep-planting your seeds in the soil: Before you plant your seeds, it is very necessary that you
read the instructions that follow such seed. However, one rule of thumb is that: plant your seeds
at a depth that equals twice or thrice the seeds' width. 

● Starting at the wrong time: When you plant seeds at the wrong time, there are blind to be
problems. 

For instance, when you plant a seed too early in the season, such seed may either overgrow or die
before the period of translation such seeds arrives. On the other hand, when you plant your seeds
late, there is a strong likelihood that such seeds may become weak at the time of planting. 

One pro-tip that can be taken into consideration when considering the right time to plant, is to
create a personalized calendar, based on your local weather. You can dp join gardening
communities and forums in your area that help to expand your knowledge on gardening. 

● Improper watering: As we have noted earlier, too much moisture and wet soil may cause
rooting of the seedlings, and then eventual death. A balanced routine to water your plants will
ensure that your seeds germinate properly. 

On the other hand, infrequent watering —and not watering on time— should be prevented, to
avoid dry soil and stunted germination. This is why I recommend that your seeds should be in
places where you can easily remember to water such seeds.

The best trick is to pre-wet the seed starting mix. After the seeds are properly sown, a sparkler
bottle —as against a watering can— should be used to mist the surroundings of your seeds. This
ensures that too much water is not released into the soil, which can uproot baby plants or even
displace the position of the seeds in the soil. 

● Too much or too little sunlight: Too much exposure to sunlight will burn the delicate baby
plants. Therefore, avoid afternoon sunlight touching your seeds.

On the other hand, where the seeds are not getting enough sunlight, the seeds won't sprout,
leaving you —the gardener— with an empty seed tray. 

The solution to this is that your plants are exposed to indirect light. The plants can also be
exposed to morning sunlight, as this is very beneficial for the plants. If the plants are being
grown indoors and don't have any access to natural light, you can expose such plants to grow
lights. These grow lights are easily maintained and adjusted, such that you can tailor them
according to the needs of your plants. 

● Using a fertiliser: The best way to fertilise your seeds is after the first one or two sets of true
leaves appear. After the seed splits, there is no need to feed them immediately. After the seeds
have sprouted, there is no need to feed them immediately.

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● Not Soaking Large Seeds: When larger seeds like melons are planted, it is a useful idea to soak
such seeds with hard covering overnight. This helps such seeds to sprout more quickly. 

● Growing so many seeds together: When you begin to crowd seeds in a single pot, this births
competition amongst the seeds. The seeds begin seeds begin compete for space, water, roots and
nutrients. For tiny tray cells, it is helpful to honeith kne seed per pot. Medium-sized planter
boxes can accommodate a maximum of 3-4 seeds. You also have to.ensure that different
varieties of seeds are not being down together. 

● Not Using Viable Seeds: Planting old seeds is essentially a waste of time. It is important for
you to tets the viability of your seeds. For you to test your seeds, you can use the flotation
technique, where you put your seeds in water for about 15-20 minutes. Quality seeds will sink
and this indicates that they are viable. Seeds that float are not so viable, and may record low
germination rate.

● Lack of temperature monitoring: Finally, a lack of temperature monitoring in your lart part
thwart all efforts made to germinate your seeds. Temperature plays a vital role ins seed
germination, and should not be left unchecked. 
      
                     How to Prepare The Soil For Cultivation 
For a vegetable garden, the ideal soil is one that is well-drained, deep, friable and consists of a
high organic matter content. When preparing your soil, adequate preparation ensures that there is
a solid foundation for seeds to germinate properly amd the eventual growth of garden crops. A
further cautious use of soil amendments can improve garden soil and allow for a suitable starting
ground for your crops. 

For vegetable gardens, there are two main methods of soil preparation —clear cultivation and
mulch gardening. When considering the techniques to prepare the soil, the gardener should take
into consideration certain factors, such as the 
soil structure, the amount of time that is available for tending the garden, and even what type of
tools are available to tend the garden. We shall look at the types of soil preparation together. 
           
                     How to Prepare Your Soil Using Clear Cultivation/ Mulch Gardening 

Under clear cultivation, you can use a small tractor, a power tier, or even a job to keep the
vegetable rows clear of weeds. This also simultaneously opens up the hardened parts of the soil,
which became hard due to the heavy traffic. 

Mulch gardening, on the other hand, uses layers of straw, leaves, bark, newspaper etc to shade
out weeds between the rows of vegetables. Under the covering of mulch gardening, the soil
remains loose and also helps its moisture. Therefore, hand weeding is the most suitable to
remove any pest plants, since the use of machine is impractical under mulch gardening.

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Both types of soil preparation require the intense use of copious amounts of manure, compost,
and/or fertilisers. These compost and fertilisers are to be used regularly in both types of soil. For
manure, you should use as much manure as possible. Towards the end of the season, you can
prepare the soil using manure by simply spreading fresh barn manure over the garden before you
then work manure into the soil. Preparing the soil with manure involves plowing the manure into
the land and mixing it with tillers, or even spading the ground deeply with a fork-type tool. 

When planting season arrives, the manure must have decomposed enough to be beneficial to the
crops. However,it should be noted that in tropical areas where there are longer seasons of rain, it
is advisable to spread the manure in the garden just before planting. This is because the manure
may decompose and begin to rot quickly, and the nutrients may eventually be washed away by
the rain. 

When using the tillage technique, it is necessary to space the rows far apart that will
accommodate the kind of equipment used. Ideally, three to four-foot spacing —or 1-1.2 meters—
is needed for an animal-drawn cultivator and three-foot spacing —or 1 meter— for a power
tiller. For hand hoeing, smaller spaces may be 
required. 

Mulch gardening, on the other hand, ensures that the vegetables are grown in beds approximately
four-feet wide, and hosting traffic paths in between aisles. 

Further, cultivating your garden with the use of machineries eases the intensive workload of
tending to a garden. The efficiency of a garden can be increased by sufficient spreading of
manure, sufficient irrigation during dry periods, amongst other things. This will ensure that your
garden still yields healthy crops during dry seasons. The addition of manure ensures that the
nutrients of the soil have been significantly increased to the point where the need for inorganic
fertilisers will be reduced. 

There are various advantages of mulch gardening and clear cultivation.

Mulch Gardening:

● Mulch gardening helps you to shade out the weeds; 

● It also helps to retain the moisture of the soil; 
● Mulch gardening also helps to prevent erosion; 
● It also protects the soil from traffic compaction; 
● Mulch gardening also protects the soil from splashing on plants, and finally;
● It reduces the amount of equipment required. 

Clear cultivation has certain advantages, including: 

● It allows the use of mechanical tillage;

● It also works well against grass-type weeds and;
● It also works well on large scale cultivating.

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        All Tools and Implements Needed In Pollinating Seeds 
There are several tools and Implements Needed when tending to your home garden. These
include: 

● Trowels: This is a small, hand-held tool that is used for digging small holes, as well as
transplanting vegetable seedlings.

● Rake: A rake is a long, hand-held tool which is used to create tilts and level seedbeds. It is also
used to collect debris and stones from the seedbed surface. You can also use a rake to break soil
clumps and spread fertilisers or compost. 

● Spade: A spade is a long hand held tool conventionally used for digging and shoveling of soil
as well as compost. It is also used to move shrubs of plants.

● Hoe: a hoe is a long hand held tool that possesses a flat and perpendicular blade at the end of
the tool. The spade is used to remove weeds by agitating and grooming the soil surface. Finally,
the hoe can be used to dig, move and hill soil in preparation for the planting season.

● Watering Can: This is a portable container used to water smaller areas and containers. 
● Peg: Pegs are used for securing lines or fleece to the ground.

● String/Garden Twine: Strings are used to tie plants to stakes.

● Shovel: The shovel is a widely used garden tool, used to dig large homes and even transport
materials such as wet soil and rocks. The shovel can also be used to cut the roots of plants and
break up compacted soil. 

● Aerator: An Aerator is used to aerate the soil, as well as reduce soil compaction by eliminating
small plugs in soil. 

● Forks: Forks are used for the digging of soils in situations where the spade may be difficult to
use in turning the soil. It is also used to till large areas of soil and break up compacted clods and
finally, it is to rake out weeds and stones. 

● Shears: Shears scissor-like tools that can be used for different purposes, including pruning,
harvesting etc. 

● Machete: A machete is a large, stomrg blade that measures at about half a meter long. It is very
effective in cutting small branches and heavy underbush. 

● Footwear: A footwear is used to protect your feet from stones, objects and tools. 

● Cultivators: Cultivators are used to break compacted soil, further spread fertilisers around the
garden and remove shallow, rooted weeds.

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● Baskets: Baskets are used to collect harvested fruits.

● Wheelbarrow: A wheelbarrow is used in the transportation of seedlings, planting materials and

other small loads. 

● Ladders: Ladders are used for pruning or harvesting. There are several types of ladders,
depending on the use of the ladder. 

                        Outdoor & Indoor Growing Techniques 

Growing your vegetables and annual flowers from their seeds indoors can be very rewarding. As
a matter of fact, vigorous plants that started growing indoors, before being transplanted will
flower faster than those directly planted outdoors.

Before growing seeds indoors, it is important to decide and select on the type of seeds you want
for planting. This decision can be made based off a number of criteria, including: 

● Purity and trueness to type: One criteria to look at is how pure the seeds are. Good seeds do
not contain seeds of other crops or weeds. Good seeds should also be the correct cultivar. It is
best to get your quality seeds from a reliable dealer. 
● Packages and storage: Also, seeds that are sold in packages should show the crop cultivar,
germination percentage and even its chemical seed treatments, as the case may be. Further, seeds
should be key fry and cool. This would ensure good germination at planting. 
● Hybrid seeds: New varieties of vegetables and flower seeds are hybrids. Hybrid seeds now cost
more than the non-hybrid cultivars due to its strength, vigour, better uniformity and even larger
yields. 
● Saving your own seeds: We—and I believe this goes too for every other seasoned gardener—
experienced gardeners prefer to save their own seed. This practice requires that such a gardener
understands the proper techniques of selecting, handling and storing the seed. 

There are several benefits of starting your plants indoors:

● First, it gives you access to a larger selection of seed varieties: When you purchase seeds
instead of growing your own indoors, you are then limited by the availability of such seedlings
on the local stores.

● Gives you head start towards a productive growing season: Seedlings that have been planted
indoors can be transplanted outside, as soon as the soil and air temperatures are warm enough.
This aids the gardener in achieving an early harvest. Therefore, crops that have longer maturity
periods can be planted early enough to have a harvested crop. 

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● Indoor growing gives you the capacity for higher control over the exact number of plants that
you need: Indoor growing ensures that you are able to control the germination of the seeds, as
against outdoor planing, which will result in spotty germination. This spotty germination may
stem from either birds, mammals, and humans etc. 

● Gives you control over the health of your seedlings: As a Gardener, you can optimise
conditions that will help you produce the healthiest of crops. 

● Finally, growing indoors help reduce the competition between weed locations, as well as any
labour that may have been spent on weeding and thinning.

                                  Container For Sowing Seeds 

The containers that will be used in growing seeds at home should fit comfortably into the space
available in the home. Acquiring the right container aids the seedlings in gaining a good start on
its journey to germination.

● Wood flats, fiber trays, plastic trays: For plants that have no difficulty in being transplanted,
such plants may be seeded in flats or trays, with the intention of later transplanting such plants
into various individual pits or wider spacings.

Compared to individual pots, starting such seeds in flats helps to save space. Although this does
not neagte the place or importance of individual pots when the time arises. 

● Clay and Plastic Pots: These types of containers are useful as they can be reused, and are quite
quite when transplanting such seeds. During transplantation, plants must be removed, and the
soil ball need to be cautiously cut apart at planting time. 

● Peat Pots: These types of pots are made from paper waste fiber and can be purchased either
individually or in blocks. Amongst experienced gardeners, these types of pots are popular due to
their usefulness, as they are quite porous in nature and provide an excellent drainage and air
movement. With this type of bags, the entire pot can be transplanted with the soil. This avoids
disturbance at the root level. 

● Compressed peat pellets: They are dry expandable pellets thay usually measure around the size
of a silver dollar when dry. However, the moment it is placed in water, the pellets begin to form
a cylindrical container that is fied with peat moss. These types of containers may also be
transplanted directly, to avoid disturbance at the level down there. 

● Plastic flats, packs and plugs: This has increasingly become a popular type of containers
amongst the gardeners. They consist of different types of plastic flats. With care, this pot can be
reused.

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Soil Mixes
When preparing your soil for your indoor plants, it is important that you use soil that is loose,
well-drained and of fine texture. There are various soil Mixes. They include: 

● Vermiculite: Healthy germination occurs when vermiculite is used for seedlings. If not
contaminated during handling, it doesn't need to be sterilized. Once other seeding makes are
used, vermiculite will be used in covering seeds.

● Synthetic Mixture: There are Mixes that do not need soil to grow seeds. They may contain
either a combination of peat moss and vermiculite or peat moss and perlite. They can be readily
made available, or can be fixed at home. Used alone, these mixes have no effect. Under this
section, seedlings must be watered with a diluted fertilizer solution.

                                              
                      
Seeding 

The period when it is necessary to sow seeds is dependent upon when the plants may normally
move outdoors. This particular period may range from four to fourteen weeks, depending upon
the speed that such seedling grows and the uncontrollable factor of the weather.

The following directions are used when a gardener wants to grow a crop: 

1. Fill the container to within ¾ inches from the top. The mixture for the seedlings should already be
within the container. 

2. If the mixture is dry, try to moisten the mixture before filling. Also, you need to know that the
pots must have adequate drainage. Before the pot is filled, it is important to cover the holes in the
container with sphagnum moss or broken crockery.

3. The planting medium must then be levelled and firmed with a clean, small board. You should not
press too hard in firming the surface, which can result in poor aeration and decreased root growth.

4. Shallow rows of about 1-2 inches apart should be made in the flat board, using a large wooden
label. This way, it is easier to track seeds of different varieties.  

5. The seeds should be sown uniformly and thinly. Each row should then contain small, round
seeds, after which the gardener taps the package as it is held over the rows. 

6. The seeds should be covered with dry vermiculite or sphagnum moss. The depth of covering
Should largely be dependent upon the size of the seeds. Moisten the surface with most, or rather
place the container in a pan of warm water. This helps to absorb moisture from the base. 

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Furthermore, you should not place containers on water that may be deep enough to run over the
top of the pot or flat. Therefore, this causes the mixing of seeds or giver the too deeply. Bottom
watering of the pots has to keep the soil surface dry. A general rule of thumb is that seeds other
than very fine seeds should be covered with soil to a depth of two times their diameter. 

1. Cover the container with polythene plastic: A clean bag is preferable. Or maybe a piece of
window glass. No additional supply of water should be watering until after the seeds have
germinated. 
2. The seeds should then be placed in a warm location for germination. The temperature must be
within the range of 65-75°F. Covered containers should even should not be placed in direct
sunlight.
3. Watch daily for germination. The pots should be moved to bright light, and should be removed
from the plastic or glass coverings as soon as germination is underway.

Growing Seedlings 
Once the seeds have germinated the best growing conditions must be put in place for such plants,
to insure stocky vigorous plants for outdoor planting. 

● Light: The seedlings must be able to receive bright light promptly after germination. They
must be placed in a bright South window, if such is possible. In cases where a large, bright
window is not available, the flats should be placed under two fluorescent lights. This should be
adequate for the crops. A combination of 1 cool white tube and 1 warm white tube. The
seedlings should be placed 3-4 inches away from the tubes, and must be switched on for about
14-16 hours daily. 

Although, it should be noted that before one undertakes fixing flourescent bulbs for the plants,
better, newer bulbs should be bought. Poor lighting will make the plants come out spindly and
weak, or burn the leaves of the plant due to its close proximity. 

Temperature: Annual plants are vegetables accustomed to night temperatures of 60°-65°F (15-
18°C). Where temperatures during the day are warmer than 10°F, this may result in leggy plants.
Therefore, for vegetables, night temperatures should not go higher than 55°F and day temp
should not go higher than 65° F.

Moisture and Watering: One major asset of producing good plants is the presence of good air
humidity. A humidifier can be placed as close to the growing area as possible. Flats should also
never be overwatered. Therefore as a gardener you should allow drying between waterings, but
not allow the seedlings to wilt at any time.

Fertilisations: For the best development of seedlings, fertilization is necessary. For plants that are
situated in completely artificial mixes, they need regular fertilization. As a gardener, it is
important that you use soluble houseplant fertilizer such as the 15-30– 15 or similar analysis.
Young tender seedlings can however be damaged by the use of excess fertilizers. Therefore it is
important that fertilizers are applied a little over half of the recommended strength a few days

19
after seedlings have terminated. Once that is completed, fertilizers should be used at two-week
intervals with the recommended dilution by the manufacturer. 

              Transplanting and Thinning 

The moment that seedlings have developed at least one set of true leaves and are strong enough,
they should be transplanted to individual pots or spaced out in separate flats. Failure on the part
of the gardener to promptly transfer these seedlings will result in a crowded and spindly seedling.

For a gardener to transplant, you must carefully dig the small plants with either a knife, spatula,
or a wooden label. This group of seedlings should be left alone to fall apart, and the gardener
then proceeds to pick out individual plants. On some occasions, it is possible that these seedlings
have become difficult to separate because they have been too close. In cases like this, it is good
that you gently ease these seedlings apart into smaller groups that will make it easier to separate
individual plants. You should also note that in the process of separating these seedlings, there is a
need to cater to the roots of the seedlings and not destroy the roots of these seedlings.

After carefully separating them, you poke a hole into the soil where the seedling will be planted.
Make it deep enough in order to ensure that the seedling is growing within the same depth it had
in the seed flat. Small plants or slow growers may be placed one inch apart, while rapid-growing
command large seedlings may be positioned about two inches apart. After planting, it is
important that you firm the soil and water gently.

In cases where the seeds are sown in individual pots or pellets, it is important that you plant one
seedling per pot at this time. Do not pull the extra seedling out, as this action will disturb the
roots of the remaining seedling. Simply cut off the extra seedling with scissors. Newly
transplanted seedlings are meant to be kept in the shade for a few days or placed under
fluorescent light. It is also important that these seedlings are kept away from heat sources while
you —the gardener— continue to water and fertilize the seedlings; the way these seedlings were
fertilized and watered while still in their seed flats.

Vegetables that can be easily transplanted include broccoli, cabbage, Brussels, sprouts, lettuce,
and tomatoes. Does that tend to portray a little slower root development and include cauliflower,
celery, eggplant, onion, and pepper?

                 
                              Moving Plants Outdoors 

Hardening: this is where plants are hardened before being transplanted Outdoors. These plants
are hardened because they have been growing indoors and, as such, cannot be abruptly
transplanted into the garden with the dangers of injury. Thus, in order to prevent damage, these
plants are hardened before being taken outdoors.

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This process of hardening starts two weeks before such seedlings are transplanted into the
garden. In any case of possibility, these plants should be moved in cooler temperatures outdoors
towards a Shady location. The cold frame is excellent for this purpose.

When initially put outside these ceilings, these seedlings are kept in the shade. However, over the
following days, these seedlings are taken into the sunlight for short periods of time today.
Gradually the length of exposure to the sun will increase for these seedlings. However, it is
important to remember that tender seedlings on windy days are not to be taken outdoors. It is
important to remember that the frequency of watering should be reduced in order to avoid slow
growth. However, infrequent watering does not mean that such plants should wilt.

Planting into the garden: when your plants have grown big enough to be handled easily and
hardly complete, these plants may then be transplanted into the garden when weather conditions
are suitable.

In order to do this, carefully remove plants from the glowing flower pots, retaining as much as
well as possible around the roots. Dig a hole about twice as large as the oil mass around your
roots. The plants should be at about the same level they have been growing in the pots. A few
plants, such as tomatoes, are able to develop roots along with the stem. When they are leggy,
they may be rooted deeper than they were previously growing. Loosely place soil around the
roots, then apply about one cup of a starter fertilizers solution. This solution is made by
dissolving 1 tbsp of high-phosphorus fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. A 15-30-15 or similar
analysis is appropriate.

Plants that are grown in clay and plastic pots must be removed from such pots before being
transplanted into the main garden. Plants growing in peat pots or peat pellets can be planted
intact. Breaking the base of the peat pot helps to improve root penetration, as well as the
drainage system of the plant. Then, it is important to ensure that the top edges of the pot are
thoroughly covered or removed. If these parts are not covered over the edge may act as weak and
ever create moisture from the root ball of the plants. The evaporation delays root penetration and
can even cause the plants to dry up on very hot days. If possible, transplant on cloudy days post-
op; on sunny days, it is important to cover the newly planted seedlings with a newspaper tent or
some other type of shade for 2 to 3 days until they are well-established.

                     Common Problems With Germination 

In cases where you are having trouble with poor germination, consider the following four
factors: 

1. Check Soil Temperature: As earlier noted soil temperature is a critical factor for good
germination and the ideal temperature range may vary for different crops and in different regions.
For example some crops such as lettuce and spinach prefer cold temperatures, while others like
peppers and tomatoes prefer warm temperatures. A soil thermometer for gauging your soil is
essential for monitoring the temperature of your growing media. Without one, you cannot be sure
that your soil is the optimal temperature for germination of your vegetable and your crops. There
is a possibility of adjusting your growing environment in order to ensure that the appropriate
temperature is attained. For instance, you may need to use a heat mat to warm the growing

21
 Media. On cases where the weather is hot and you are cultivating cold season crops, you may
need to move your plants into a shade or cooler locations until the seeds begin to germinate. If
you are using a heat mat, note the temperature range of your mat. so it's not such as the Hydro
foam seedling heat mat heat only to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit is 7 degrees Celsius higher than
ambient temperatures. Therefore,ways endeavour to what was written.

2. Check the varieties days-to-germination: understanding that some crops take a long time to
germinate and may have an uneven germination. This implies that some of the seeds out earlier
than others despite being in the same tree and exposed to the same growing conditions.

3. Check Moisture Levels: another common reason for poor germination is lack of moisture.
Inconsistent or inadequate water can cause your growing Media to be consistently moist but not
oversaturated full stop therefore your seeds need to be consistently moisturized to germinate
however this does not imply that you overwater your plants. Over watering your plants will lead
to rot and decay of your plants.

4. Check the crops lightning requirements for germination: most crops do not need lights for
germination however some crops for example, Columbine need light for germination. For crops
that require lights to germinate, I advise that you do so shallowly or do not cover the seeds at all.

Pollination
"Pollination" is the technical term given to the fertilization or breeding of flowers, and has been defined to
mean the transfer of pollen from the stamens of the flowers to the pistils. This phase is very critical in the
life cycle of every flower, as the lack of pollination implies that there can be no union of the male and
female gametes, and subsequently there will be no breeding of the flower's ovule. Of course, no
fertilisation of the ovule further means that the flower will bear no fruits, and in turn, no seeds.

Various Manual and Natural Pollination Techniques

Pollination can occur in two forms viz; Self-pollination and cross-pollination.

Self-Pollination

Essentially, self-pollination occurs when the pollen transfers from the anthers of a flower to the stigma of
the same flower. This pollination is commonly found in plants deemed hermaphrodite or dioecious in
nature, i.e., these plants possess both male and female parts on the same flower.

Self-pollinating plants, like their name, are less dependent on external factors to actualize fertilization.
However, these plants still regularly depend on factors like wind and small insects. These plants also

22
feature anthers and stigmas of equal lengths that facilitate pollen transfer. These plants can be further
divided into two subsections; Autogamy, Geintonogamy, and Xenogamy.

● Autogamy is a type of self-pollination where the pollen is transferred from the anthers of one
flower to the stigma of such a flower.

● Geintonogamy, on the other hand, allows for the transfer of anthers from one flower to the stigma
of another, both of which must be on the same plant.

● Xenogamy: Finally, Xenogamy describes the fertilization of genetically different types of pollen
grains on the flower's stigma.

There are some advantages to the self-pollination of plants. These include:

● No issue of diversity amongst the genes of the flowers. Therefore, the purity of such a breed is
maintained. This is especially true in inherited seeds that are no longer found in large quantities.
You may want to keep the race pure to avoid cross-pollination and, subsequently, taint the race of
such plants.

● Another superb advantage of self-pollinating plants is that tHese plants require no external agent
to fertilize themselves.

● Finally, these plants maintain the healthiest genes, leaving no room for recessive characteristics.

Disadvantages of Self-Pollination

One major disadvantage of self-pollination is that this type of pollination increases what is termed
"homozygosity," or, in other words, the sameness of plants. This pollination further decreases the genetic
diversity of flowers, often leading to poor, weak growth and diminished flowering and fruiting capacity
over time. Speaking matter-of-factly, enforced self-pollination in plants usually pollinated through other
agents, such as insects, would often lead to poorly developed seeds, small plants, and, ultimately, lessened
yield. This particular loss of such seed's vigor is known as "inbreeding depression."

This inbreeding depression may come to light after an annexation or two after the cross-pollination. At
the same time, it may take several generations to fully notice the decline in vigor in some other plants.
Some other plants may seldom experience this loss of vigor, although these cases are rare.

Cross-Pollination

Cross pollination, on the other hand, describes the movement or transfer of pollen from the anthers of the
flower to the stigma of another flower. This case inhabits the fertilization of two flowers that are
genetically different. Cross-Pollination is heavily dependent on external factors to facilitate the transfer of

23
pollen. These factors —or agents of pollination— range from birds to animals, to water, wind, and to
even insects. These factors also sub-divide this type of pollination into further smaller classifications:

● Hydrophilous Flowers: These types of flowers are pollinated with the use of water. These types
of flowers tend to remain inconspicuous, bearing little fragrance and color on their petals.
Because of the nature of pollen transfer, the pollen is adapted to floating in the water.

● Zoophilous Flowers: This classification of pollination uses animals like humans, birds etc.
Zoophilous flowers are inherently designed to attach themselves to the body of the animal, which
allows for the easy transfer of such pollen from one flower to another.

● Anemophilous Flowers: Anemophilous flowers engage the wind as it's the agent of pollen
transfer. These flowers are also small and inconspicuous, and because the wind is its agent of
pollination, such pollens are very light, allowing them to be easily scattered by the wind. This
pollen is also non-sticky and may be winged at times.

● Entomophilic Flowers: These flowers are fertilized by insects. These insects are attracted to such
flowers by the brilliant display of colors andheavy fragrance enabled from such flowers. These
flowers additionally possess broad stigmas or anthers that allow the insect to perch on them. It is
also vital to note that many of these flowers do usually have secret nectar that attracts bees,
butterflies, and other similar insects. These grains feature spine-like extensions that enable them
to stick to the body of such insects.

● Ornithophilous Flowers: Finally, these flowers are pollinated by birds and are very few as against
the etudes of flowers that transfer pollen through other agents.

The advantages of cross-pollination include:

● Cross-pollination holds several benefits to a plant's race because it introduces a new variety of
genes into the plant's lineage. This includes the improvement of the offspring's resistance to
various diseases and sudden changes in the environment.

● Cross-pollination also allows the seeds to be healthy and possess vigor and vitality.

● Further, cross-pollination ensures that recessive characters on a plant's lineage are eliminated by
virtue of the genetic composition.

The disadvantages include the following:

● Excessive wastage in pollen grains that are used to ensure the occurrence of fertilization.

24
 ● Further, the chances of eliminating a plant's positive traits increase significantly, further imposing
a risk of contracting unwanted or recessive characteristics as a result of the genetic
recombination.

Hand Pollination
The intensification of agriculture worldwide has gradually led to a decline in the reliance on pollinators.
This decline has led to seeking alternatives that help manage the sufficient pollination of plants that
heavily depend on pollination. An example of crops that are dependent on pollination includes apples.

Therefore, hand pollination has been used as an agronomy intervention in situations where such natural
pollination is inadequate. Where there is a lack of pollen quality, or the quantity is insufficient for
effective pollination to occur, hand pollination is used to effect fertilization of flowers. This manual
pollination technique holds significant importance for many plants, as we shall subsequently see.

So what is hand-pollination?

Hand-pollination, as the name implies, is a unique form of pollination that allows the pollen to be applied
manually to the flower's pistils. This type of pollination can be done exclusively where natural pollination
has been hindered or can be used to supplement the work of natural pollination.

As indicated above, the main reason for hand-pollination is the absence of natural pollinators. For
instance, if you —a home gardener— excessively use pesticides, this can lead to loss of habitat and,
eventually, pollinators. It has also been noticed that some crops can only be pollinated by one pollinator.
Thus, these types of crops are susceptible to pollination limitations. For instance, sugar apples and custard
apples are exclusively pollinated by nitidulid beetles. These beetles may be discouraged from visiting
nearby orchids, especially where there is a lack of rainfall and an agricultural landscape that significantly
distances itself from the forests.

Another reason for hand-pollination is the lack of proper placement or even wrong placements on
pollinator plants. Many fruits are incompatible and thus may require cross-pollination from other varieties
called "pollinizer trees." These pollinizer trees are trees that can either be planted across the surrounding
landscape or even inserted atop the main crop species.

Finally, the rising water temperature, sudden flash floods, and drastic bad weather limit natural
pollination. This causes pollinators to be incompatible with the flowering dates of plants, and it is
expected that such mismatched pollination may be on the increase.

How is Hand-Pollination then Performed?

The techniques of hand pollination vary. Some techniques involve manual pollination, while some may
involve automated equipment. The various examples of the manual application of pollen include a brush,
a hand spray, or a buffer. It may even be as simple as bringing a male flower into contact with pistils.

25
On the other hand, automated equipment is being produced to aid hand pollination. This equipment
includes pollen spray systems, electrostatic pollen applicators, air blasters, electric vibrators, etc.

Open-Pollinated, Heirloom, and Hybrid Seeds

What are Open-Pollinated Seeds?

Open-pollinated seeds are seeds that will "breed true." In other words, these are seeds that, when they
self-pollinate or even cross-pollinate with another variety of the same flower, will produce plants that are
loosely identical to the parent flowers.

Heirloom seeds, on the other hand, are seeds or plants that are open-pollinated and have been handed
down from one generation to the next. This variety of seeds is usually around 40-50 years old. Still, it is
not usually in commercial production, remaining arable in certain regions. These seeds are usually saved
because the home gardener found a distinct quality.

Hybrid seeds are the result of the cross-pollination of two-ingredient lines. These plant lines are produced
by a set of self-pollinations. This process of cross-pollination is heavily controlled by scientists because
they selectively pick the two parent plants with certain strong characteristics and pollinate one flower
with the other. These types of curated flowers are known as "F¹ hybrids," with "F¹" immediately the "first
filial generation." In other words, these plants are the first generation of a plant after such controlled
cross-pollination has occurred.

Although it should be noted that hybridization can occur between natural cross-pollinated species in the
wild, they cannot be classified as F¹ hybrids since scientists cannot fully determine which particular plants
were the parent plants and which generation such wild plants may easily stem from. These natural
hybridizations are consequently much less predictable than controlled hybridization.

F¹ hybrids often produce high-yielding, vigorous and pest-immune plants. These hybrids further possess
high-quality flowers, roots, and of course, fruits. These hybrids may also have been produced to allow the
quick ripening of fruits with longer storage longevity, more vibrant and colorful foliage, and even several
more traits that a controlled breeder sought to breed.

F¹ hybrids also produce plants that are true to type; however, if you save seeds from an F¹, the plants that
sprout from these won't be true to type because they lack the accurate genetic mix that originally
controlled cross-pollination entails. These plants are known as the F² generation.

These F² generation seeds may possess some fairly likable traits, but saving these seeds won't be
beneficial to you —the home gardener— as such seeds continue to deteriorate in quality and may end up
far inferior to the original generation of the F¹ generation.

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Why Do We Have Different Varieties of Seeds: Between Open-Pollinated and
Hybrid Seeds

The answer to this question ultimately boils down to the needs of the grower. Depending on how you
grow the different types of seeds and for what purposes, certain seeds —be they open-pollinated or
otherwise—may attend to your different needs at different points in time.

For instance, open-pollinated seeds have a much better appeal to small farmers and home gardeners and
are often quite appreciated for their genetic diversity. Therefore, while these open-pollinated seeds may
appeal to home gardeners, they definitely do not have the appeal and favor that growers aim for to meet
large market demands.

Advantages of Open-Pollinated Seeds Over Hybrid Seeds

The advantages of Open-Pollinated Varieties (OPVs), especially over the F¹ hybrids, include the
following:

● Bigger Ecological Plasticity: With Open-Pollinated Varieties, more economical yields can be
achieved, even in less favorable growing conditions and with a lessened crop input.

● Less Costly Breeding Procedures, Coupled with a Shorter Development Cycle: From the period
where the initial breeding takes place with the breeding material to the eventual product, a
gardener will require five more generations of the hybrid plants on an average than it will take for
open-pollinated varieties to breed.

● OPVs gave a larger disease-resistant capacity: Open-pollinated varieties are easily built to be
immune to certain pests and parasites by simply intermating different races of plants. In
comparison, total resistance cannot be achieved for hybrid plants.

● There is more economic efficiency with open-pollinated varieties: OPVs are usually known for
their higher yield per plant, as well as per hectare, in the various stages of seed production, unlike
hybrid plants.

● Affordable Seeds: Open-pollinated seeds are usually less expensive when breeding such seeds, as
against hybrid seeds that may be 3-5 times more expensive than open-pollinated varieties.

Disadvantages of Open-Pollinated Varieties

The disadvantages of open-pollinated varieties include the following:

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 ● The diverse nature of the seeds implies that there is less predictability with the seeds regarding
the size, maturity periods, and shapes.

● With open-pollinated seeds, the yields can be from both strong and weak seed stock.
● Finally, controlling the genes of open-pollinated seeds can prove to be more challenging n hybrid
seeds.

Advantages of Hybrid Seeds Over Open-Pollinated Varieties:

The advantages of Hybrid seeds over open-pollinated varieties include the following:

● Intense vigor during yield of hybrid plants: For most crops, inter-population vigor and viability of
seeds are considered more important than intra-population vigor, of which the latter encapsulates
the traits of open-pollinated varieties. Therefore, when hybrid parent races originate from
different populations, there is a possibility of achieving a high level of inter-population vigor
amongst the plants.

● Uniformity: Additionally, uniformity is achieved with hybrid plants because these seeds are of
similar genotypes. Growers are particular about uniformity because it helps with the following:

a. Disease resistance: Open-pollinated varieties are highly susceptible to various pathogens

and parasites. At the same time, entirely resistant hybrids can be developed to be immune
to various pathogens and parasites.

b. Insect resistance: the uniformity usually seen in hybrid plants when blooming aids in
controlling insects that can damage the plants. This is because there is a more controlled
and timely application of insecticide.

c. Agronomy traits: During harvest, the uniformity of hybrid plants in maturity, height, and
head inclination greatly benefits the breeders and growers of these plants compared to
open-pollinated varieties.

d. Herbicide tolerance: For breeders, there is the possibility of developing hybrid plants that
are totally resistant to herbicides. This resistance can be partially dominant or recessive.
In cases of partial resistance, the ones responsible for such resistance will be incorporated
in all the parental races of the plants during the homozygous stage. This is possible due to
the homogeneity of the plants, as against the heterogeneous nature of open-pollinated
varieties.

For those, the process the seeds and hybrids plants are preferred due to the following:

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 ● The features of the seeds: for instance, the uniformity in seed size, shape, and even color of the
seeds are quite essential. I'm flowering like the non-oil see sunflowers. This uniformity is very
vital during the debunking of the seeds.

● Achieving industry-specific standards: For instance, there must be over 80% oleic in high-oleic
oils. This can be easily achieved with hybrid plants due to their uniform nature.

● Modernized breeding: Hybrids can be used to incorporate the strong traits of genes. This is
achieved using inbred races or lines against the heterogeneous nature of open-pollinated varieties.

● Efficiency in producing seeds: Inbred seeds may be costly and more expensive. However, it is
possible to save expenses by selecting inbred with higher yields as the female parental lines.
Instead of having a single-cross hybrid, you can incorporate a three-way hybrid, where a single-
cross sterile hybrid is a female. This helps to substantially increase efficiency in the production of
seeds.

Disadvantages of Hybrid Seeds

The disadvantages of hybrid seeds include the following:

● The breed of seeds may not have any significant cultural value as they are not heirloom seeds.

● There is no genetic diversity in seeds.

● Finally, a grower cannot save seeds from hybrid plants.

How to Avoid Cross-Pollination

As a home gardener, if the goal of planting is to Dave and replant seeds from the open-pollinated varieties
of herbs, flowers, and other vegetables, it is very important to keep in mind that the genetic purity of such
flowers or herbs must be maintained. In other words, there is a need to create a barrier of hindrance that
ensures the "wrong" pollen does not pollinate your flowers or stock plants. This barrier can be a physical
structure that blocks any pollen-carrying insect, or it can even be the elements of time or distance. These
tactics have been termed "the isolation of plants."

Usually, cross-pollinated plants are those in the Chenopodiaceae, Asteraceae, Cucurbitaceae, Apiaceae,
Rosaceae, and Brassicaceae families. Cross-pollination is also found in the families of most woody
species and tends to be the most numerous. Plants found in the families above are known to have a
diverse heritage and, therefore, need to be isolated if a gardener intends to achieve any control of the
patterns of these plants' heritage.

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Isolating Plants with Distance

As a home gardener with a relatively small garden, it is best to separate all varieties of a particular crop
that is usually cross-pollinated by insects by a minimum of 200 yards. This will help to lessen the chances
of cross-pollination amongst the varieties of plants. For plants that are cross-pollinated by wind, the rule
of thumb is that these species of plants should be separated from their species by at least a mile.

For self-pollinated plants, chances of cross-pollination are between 2 to 4 percent, a relatively minute
percentage. These crops all have a limited genetic composition that guarantees a gardener achieving
plants that are true to type. However, certain factors, such as wind, can cause these self-pollinated plants
—less than 4 percent of all plant species— to be cross-pollinated.

Therefore, it is important that when planting for seed-saving purposes, more than one variety of these
plants that self-pollinate, it is very important to separate them by at least 150 feet. You can also separate
them by ensuring a row or two of a tall, non-related species that can effectively block the transfer of
pollen from one plant to another. For instance, you can plant a row or two of beans or corn in between
these plants.

Isolating with Bags and Cages

If you are not convinced of the use of distance in separating your plants —especially in accidental
pollination— you can use bags or cases to isolate these plants. These bags come in different sizes and
materials, and you can make your own local bag from row-cover materials.

To do this, you must either tie a piece of row cover around the particular flowers you intend to protect or
sew a piece of row cover to make the bag. The bed must be sealed tight, with no leaking holes. As a
matter of fact, the best bags are those that are water-resistant. In vegetable crops, the best trick would be
to bag the individual blossoms of the flowers, as this would exclude the pollinators. Once the seed is set,
you can remove the bad and label the fruit.

Isolating plants with cages can also be introduced during gardening. Still, this technique is usually used
by experienced seed savers or growers, as this technique also introduces pollinators. You can try this
technique in your home by placing a plate covered with honey. This honey will attract the bees in the
garden. After this has been done, the plate should be picked up and placed on the ground near the plants
you want to pollinate. After setting it down, you set the cage over the plant and the plate.

For those plants that self-pollinate, the bagging of individual inflorescences can be used to prevent any
chance of pollen transfer by wind or insects. For this, you can build a wooden frame of 1×2s. This way,
the cage would be large enough to enclose several plants and additional input standard window screens or
other porous materials onto the cage's frame.

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You can also cage individual plants by surrounding such plants with a wire tomato cage, further wrapping
them with a row cover fabric. Or, you set up wire hoops over an entire row of plants, covering them with
a row cover. This would keep away insects and pests.

"Alternate-day caging" can also avoid cross-pollination between two varieties of plants. This technique
involves the removal of a cage for a group of self-pollinated plants in the morning, replace in the evening,
and then repeating the process the next day with the second cage
This way, you can plant two varieties of ants right next to each other. Although, it should be noted that
you must build a wooden frame that is large enough to accommodate the minimum number of plants for
seed saving, depending on the type of crop you want to grow.

Isolating by Planting Time

Isolation of plants can also be done by planting the different varieties of a plant at different times of the
season. Alternatively, you can plant two varieties that possess different periods of maturity. For instance,
let us assume that there are two varieties of corn to be planted, one having 65 days and the other 85 days.
Planting both simultaneously does not increase the chances of cross-pollination since the flowering period
of both crops will differ. But, if a particular variety has 65 days, and the other one has 67 days, these
varieties are more likely to bloom at the same time if planted within the same period. For the latter
example, it will be better to plant each variety at least 10 days apart. This will help to impede the
blooming times of both varieties.

All Techniques on How to Properly Store Seeds for Five Years

Basic Features of Storage Structures

It is common knowledge that when seeds are not properly stored, they become useless to the owners.
Longevity of seeds is essentially contoeed by two main factors: the seed moisture content and storage
temperature. Therefore, to ensure that a seed attains the maximum storage life these two factors must be

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careful controlled. Although, most seeds produced annually only need to be stored from the harvest
season of the same year to the planting season of the next. As such, these seeds may not require storage
under conditions other than related air temperture and relative humidity, depending on the kind of seed in
question and the surrounding climate. With regards storage structures of seeds, there are certain
characteristics that must be present for a storage facility to be deemed as apt to store seeds.

Basic Features of Storage Structures

● Protection From Water: This is one of the foremost vital feature of any storage structure, as rain,
ground moisture, or even any other source of water should not be allowed to seep through the
storage structure and come in contact with the seeds. This is mainly because such contact with
water increases the seed moisture content. In turn, high seed moisture content increases the rate of
respiration, heating and spurs the growth of mold on the seeds. In some cases, it may further
promote sprouting of the seeds. All these effects leads to a decades in the quality of such seeds.

Further, the roof and sidewalls of the seed storage structure must not have any holes or cracks that may
allow the entry of rain or snow, or other external factors. Of there are cracks or holes in the wooden walls
and roofs, they should be filled. The screws and bolts in buildings of steel should further posses rubber
washers, particularly steel that for part or all of the roof. Also, the floor of the storage structure must be
waterproof, since theostre of the soil can be readily absorbed by the seeds on contact. In cases of wooden
floors, the floor should be elevated, while in ages of the concrete floors, there should be a moisture barrier
under the floor. Naturally, metal floors cannot be penetrated, however, rust can occur if it continues to
come in continuous contact with water.

● Protection From Contamination: every seed lot must be kept distinct from other seed lots. This is
due to the fact that seeds of distinct cultivars of various crops can be indistinguishable from each
other. This lack of distinction is further enhanced by the fact that seeds are often difficult to
separate. Therefore, storage facilities must be constructed in such a way that offers top-noth
protection from any accidengal contamination.

For storage that is done in bulk, a different bin must be provided for wach cultivar. In cases where the
storage is in bags, there should be the separate stacking of seeds emanating from each cultivar. Further,
toteboxes and bags that are stacked on pallets should be placed placed such a way that they can be readily
moved away by a forklift. These bags should also be carefully and visibly labeled.

● Protection From Rodents: Extra precautions must be taken to ensure that rodents are not allowed
entry into storage structures and buildings, as lathe quantities of seeds are typically lost to these
rodents. Most buildings that are made of steel and metal do the trick in ensuring these pests are
barred entry. Wooden structures can also prevent rodents from gaining access access these seeds,
although these wooden buildings must be cared for to ensure that they are still useful to the seed
owner.

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Metal bins that have tight lids are also very effective in keeping the rodents out, whoe bags made of
clothe can be repeatedly treated treated repel the rodents.

● Protection From Insects: A good storage unit should be contracted in such a way that it can be
adequately fumigation to control pests at all times, even though insects do not constitute a major
problem for some seeds. Dealing with insectsshoild be kept at a minimum, via the thorough
fumigation of storage units. In cases where bins are used to keep the seeds, the bins should be
thoroughly cleaned and fumigated whenever such bin is emptied.

In cases of totebags and other types of bags, it is important to ensure the areas where these bags are kept
are free from trash and loose seeds, at all times. This strict cleanliness will ensure that these insects are
not given a place or opportunity to breed, aiding in the further control of such insects.

● Protection From Fungi: Storage fungi —in certain circumstances— can effect a significant
amount of damage in stored seeds. Understanding that fungjbthrives in warm and humidity
conditions, storage units and facilities most be able to provide cool and dry conditions. Any
potential damage that can be caused by fungi can be kept at a minimum, through the careful
drying of seeds to a safe moisture content —which is usually less than 12%— and holding such
seeds under dry conditions.

The ventilation of storage structures can further enhance the protection of these seeds from fungi,
particularly in storage units made of steel. For metal and steel structures, it is very important to prevent
the accumulation of translocated moisture. The difference on temperature with these steel structures or
bins, can cause moisture to move from warmer areas to cooler areas of the bin, particularly the upper
surface. This movement of moisture can lead to the growth of fungi, unless necessary precautions are
taken to avoid this accumulation and translocation of moisture.

To control the growth of fungi, seeds can be treated treated chemicals. Fungicides should be applied
routinely to various seeds as part of processing the seeds. Although, you must note that Fungicides that
control soil may not control storage fungi, therefore, it of best to use fungicides that are apt for their
various purposes.

● Protection From Fire: Wooden structures to protect seeds pose the greatest facilitator to loss of
seeds from fire. However, these wooden buildings can be chemically treated to repel burning.
Further, any hazard that may cause fire to erupt ins toreg units can be cleaned out, both inside and
outside the storage structures.

Every seed storage building should be equipped with sparkproof electrical outlets and unique dust-proof
outlets and switches. This is particularly important in the processing areas of the buildings. The wiring of
the building should also be rodent-proof.etal and concrete buildings should also have wiring precautions
that prevent electrical sparks.

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In general, structures that possess these features are able to protect your seeds from loss, whether partial
or permanent. However, in areas where there is an extremity in temperature amd humidity, extra
precautions should be taken, to maintain the quality of the seeds during storage.

Types of Storage Structures

The different types of storage sources include the following:

● Farm Storage: Farm storage usually happens during the harvest season, and spanning a
few days or weeks. Various seeds owners do not usually contain seeds on the farm from
the harvest season to the next planing season. These seeds may be kept in bins, bags and
sometimes, stacked in the ground.

Ground storage is temporary, and only used in cases of emergency. Lots of seeds that are in bulk
are stored in wooden or metal bins, barns and garnered. It is better to keep seeds in wooden
buildings than in metal buildings, usually because the heat buildup is greater and the moisture
loss is faster in metal buildings, as against the wooden buildings. It is only when the seeds are
exceptionally dry, that it is advisable to use metal buildings as storage structures. The
accumulation of heat in metal structures can lead to a significant loss of seed viability in seeds
that contain high moisture content. To prevent this, the metal building can be painted in white on
the outside. The building can also be properly ventilated, or the use of both techniques at the
same time. For seeds that are stored in bags, they can be stored in farm buildings that have lage
amounts of space, although this practice is known for loss of seeds through insects and rodents.

● Country Elevator Storage: Country elevators can be susrd to gather seeds during and
imemfotskey after harvest. This storage is usually for a limited time, and may be in bulk
lots, in wooden or steel bins, bags, toteboxes, concrete or even metal buildings.

Country elevators do susually posses a fanning mill that is used is used remove the trash from the
seeds before storage takes place. Fanning also aids in eliminating the moisture content of the
seeds. These country elevators also usually encompass instruments and tools that control both
rodents and insects.

● Seed Processor Storage: Seed Processors are commonly used in the United States to store
bulk lots of seeds for future usage. These storage facilities usually vary in size and

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 construction, ranging from either concrete, metal or wooden buildings to enormous
warehouses. Some of these processors use rooms that are properly insulators, where the
temperature and relative humidity are effectively controlled to protect the viability of
seeds at a maximum level, particularly for seeds that are expensive.

Seed processors store seeds, be it processed or otherwise. Uncleanness seeds are kept in areas
well donated distanced from the processed seeds. Theses unprocessed seeds may be packaged in
bags, pallet boxes, or bulk bins. Depending on the specifications of the seeds, each container has
its pros and cons when it comes to storing seeds.

For seeds that have been completely processed, they are typically stored in the containers that are
subsequently used to ship them. The processor stores some of these seeds in retail packages,
while others are then repackaged by the retailer himself. The various storage facilities that are
operated by seed processors often possess the basic requirements previously discussed. They
many even gi ahead to provide for the special needs of certain seeds, while protecting the seeds
from unfavorable climatic conditions.

● Retail Storage: This type of storage is typically known to be less than ideal, especially in
view of the fact that seed retailers must hold their seeds stock for certain lengths of time
that cam vary, and under regular atmospheric conditions that pertain to the different
locations.

Retail storage doesn't usually favor the seeds, because at this level, there is little to no attempt to
provide any form of protective storage for the seeds. However, in areas that are relatively hot and
humid, seeds that are packaged in cloth, paper or plastic containers that are thin in nature help
the shelf life of these seeds packaged in retail, allowing for some form of marketing without
looking at significant amounts of the seeds' viability.

● Research Storage: Scientists can store varying seed stocks in different quantities, to
conduct significant research for future purposes. For the long-term storage of seeds,
dehumidified storage is the most ideal way of storing seeds. Although, the reality is that
such conditions are not available to research scientists in a uniform manner. They must
then adapt to lean than favorable conditions, even though these scientists naturally use the
best facilities available.

In certain areas, certain seeds may be able to retain their viability under regular atmospheric
conditions. But in areas where the relative humidity and atmospheric conditions —particularly in
tropical and subtropical areas— are high, there is a need to create a controlled atmospheric
storage storage for the seeds. This will allow the seed stock for research to last longer than some
days. The best alternative to this kind of storage is sealed storage.

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To keep seeds safe for up to 3-5 years, sealed storage can be used, ensuring that the seed
moisture content of the seeds is dried until it is about 5 to 8 percent, before these seeds are sealed
in moisture proof containers. To allow for starters beyond 5 years, the seed moisture content
must be further reduced to between 2.5 to 5 percent before packaging takes place.

GermPlasm Storage

An example of a germplasm preservation center, is the United States National Seed Storage
Laboratory, the U.S. Regional Plant Introduction Stations etc. These centers have the best
storage conditions that can be available for seeds storage. These centers store seeds in certain
conditions that allow for the proper storage of such seeds for decades. This is because those
seeds stored in such centers do not have to be regrown very often, but at least every 20 or 30
years.

These centers are three-leveled buildings, comprising the machine room, growth chamber room,
workshop, biochemistry laboratory, custodian supply room, and a storage room on the first floor.
The second level has the administrative offices, while the third floor holds the germination
laboratory and the seed storage rooms.

The seed storage rooms are known to be built with a storage capacity of 180,000 pint cans to
house the samples of the seeds. The storage conditions are maintained at about 4°C, while the
relative humidity is set at about 35%. This unique combination of storage conditions has been
deemed to be the most ideal for storing seeds with very lengthy time frames in mind. If the needs
of the seeds tilt towards having a lower temperature, this can be achieved in these centers, while
in certain rooms, the humidity of the room can increase, to undertake the effect of such humid
levels on the seeds. However, these rooms are not used for the routinely storage of seeds with
germ plasm.

Materials Used For Seed Storage

There are various packaging containers and materials that are used in storing seeds. These
materials are mainly dependent on the longevity period of storage, therefore, there are materials
for short-term storage and long-term storage. 

                                           Short-Term Storage 

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There are tons of materials that can be used to store seeds for temporary or short-term periods.
These materials are often made of non-rigid materials like cotton, polythene bags, burlap paper,
and even composite materials such as plastic film and multi-wall paper.

Materials Used for short-term storage of seeds are quite porous. Therefore, these materials are
efficient in the area of isolating these seeds from mixing but are deficient in maintaining seed
viability and preventing moisture from affecting the seeds. These materials used are preferable
when a gardener mechanically separates the seed lots. They are also used for the transportation
and shipment of such seeds until the seeds are placed in a more environmentally-controlled area
that facilitates long-term storage.

Also, each type of material used for short-term storage possesses its pros and cons. For instance,
burlap bags have the greatest strength among the selection of short-term storage materials, which
allows a gardener to reuse them several times. It also allows for proper and effective stacking of
the seeds in the bags.

The strength of cotton bags depends on how thick the weave and thread of the bag are, as well as
the quality of the seams. Although it is not as tear-resistant as a burlap bag, the cotton bag can be
reused several times. However, this reusable feature of the cotton bag depends on the fabric as
well.

Bags that are made of woven plastic are fairly strong, but they tend to slip when piled high and
are further difficult to close properly once the bag has been opened. Multi-wall bags are bags
derived from multiple layers of paper. These materials are weak and can accidentally hurt open
or slip when piled together. When these types of bags are further used, they may become brittle
along the folds.

Overall, seeds that are stored in woven bags —be it cotton, paper, or otherwise— need to be
regularly inspected because these types of bags offer little to no protection against seed pests,
such as grain moths.

Small lots of seeds can be stored in paper bags such as lunch bags. These types of bags are
inexpensive and adequate for seed storage. However, these bags are not to be used
independently. Therefore, they must be doubled or even tripled, as the seams are not always
reliable.

There are other materials that can be used for short-term storage. These include polythene zip
lock bags, cellophane, acetate, etc.

Long-Term Storage

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When it comes down to long-term storage, metal and glass containers are used to avoid any
exchange of moisture and gas. These types of containers are the only remaining types that can be
used to protect the seeds against humidity, rodents, insects, floods etc.

With regards saving bulk lots of seeds, you can use a metal five-gallon can that has been fitted
with a rubber gasketed lid and pressure ring. These containers are quite useful in handling seeds
that are lareg large size, such as beans and peas. You can also use a one-gallon jar, in so far as
that jar has a gasketed seal. Glass containers also give the advanatbe of easily inspecting the state
of seeds due to the transparent nature of the container, in case of any damage that may have may
have suffered by the plants.

In cases of storing small quantities of seed, ½ and ¼ pint jars are apt for storage, however, the
jars must have a rubber seal that is in good condition. You can also use containers previously
used to pack baby food, however, these containers must not be packed to the rim of the
container, as seeds can be destroyed if they are trapped between the rim of the jar and the lid.

Seed Saver Vials are another excellent optikn for storing seeds, because they are made of
polypropylene that has a high density, a patented inner and outer valve that ensures an airtight
seal. A heat-sealable barrier pouch is another alternative for storing seeds long term. These
containers are made from paper, plastic and foil, and are usually sealed with a heat sealer.

In all, when you are considering the type of storage container to be used, it is advisable to have a
minimum number of standard sizes. If you are using branded jars, it is also advisable to use a
particular brand, to ensure that the same-style and same-sized containers have the same weight.
This helps in controlling your inventory of seeds. Using the same size of containers also helps to
standardize the weight of stored seeds, without having to actually remove the seeds from such
containers.

Common Sense Practices

Ventilation

Heat and moisture can be diffused through ventilation. Heat and moisture usually affect seeds,
especially seeds that are stored wet, and tend to get hot when stored in bulk or in bags. To
ventilate such seeds, you can allow a steady stream of air moving through a bin of seeds. The
same applies to the seeds that are stored in a warehouse full of bags and seeds. Ventilation will

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diffuse the accumulation of heat, as preventing the buildul of heat is quite essential to
maintaining healthy germination.

Stacking Seed Bags

For seeds that are processed, they are usually kept in bags, which are thenstcked together.
Separate stacks are created for bags of seeds of each species, cultivar and genus. Therefore,
proper ventilation should be available for these bags, through the adequate spacing of these bags
between the stacks. These bags of seeds have to be stacked with caution to avoid slippage and
falling, which may in turn, prove hazardous both to the storage of the seeds and to employees.

It is so important to ensure that these stacks are not high, as the height of the stacks can apply too
much pressure on the lower bags, causing them to burst. Finally, for those bags that are lifted
with a forklift, it is necessary to have these bags placed on pallets.

Removing The Seeds From Controlled Storage

It is important to note that if seeds have been stored in a controlled storage room, these seeds will
readily absorb moisture upon its exposure to water and a humid atmosphere. Moisture
condensation, therefore, has to be avoided and this can be done by warming the seeds in
atmospheric conditions that are dry, or by warming the seeds in a room that has rapidly moving
air.

When storing these seeds, moisture-barrier containers can be used to prevent condensed moisture
from touching the seeds. Further, cold bulk seeds can be regulated up to the normal atmospheric
moisture if these seeds are well aerated. This aeration prevents the buildup of condensed
atmospheric moisture. Finally, these seeds must remain dry after removing them from storage, as
humidity will erode the protective efforts of the controlled storage unit.

Warehouse Cleanliness

It is known that the cleanliness of your warehouse can significantly determine the seed quality of
your seeds. Cleaner warehouses repel rodents and insects, allowing for more control over such

39
pests. A clean warehouse further reduced the chances of accidental mixtures and personnel
accidents.

GERMINATION

Germination only occurs when the favorable conditions —such as the right time and place— needed for
such germination of the plants are available. Nature ensures that these seeds only germinate in favorable
conditions by placing these seeds into dormancy, just before or after these seeds are dispersed. These

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dormant seeds cannot germinate, even in a condition that favors germination, until the right time comes
around.

The germination of seeds is a process that I filled with many stages. First of, the seeds absorbs water,
which in turn, serves as the trigger for many other activities. The water allows the seedoat to soften up,
further triggering metabolism within the seed. Then, the enzymes and hormones are activated, which then
leads to the transformation of food stored in the endopspern into the energy that the seeds will need for
the growth process. Sometimes, the proteins found in the seeds may also cause the seed coat to crack,
allowing more moisture and oxgyen into the seed. The growth of various cells continues, while tissues
develop. The radicle of the seeds eventually breaks through, paving way for the seedling to germinate and
grow.

Favorable environmental conditions usually trigger the internal physiological processes in a seed that
allows such seed to overcome its dormant stages, subsequently allowing it to germinate. Each distinct
species of plants have certain requirements that must be met, to enable germination. For most flowers,
vegetables and crops with an annual cycle, the process of germination is quite simple. As a matter of fact,
dormancy is not usually a problem with these types of seeds, except in fruits such as peppers and
tomatoes, which only germinate more healthily when they are "cured". In other words, these above-
mentioned fruits germinate better when they have been completely dried for two months, with
atmospheric conditions reaching about 25°C before germination.

For perennial flowers and have, germination rakes a long or complex process and even special treatments,
such as allowing the seeds to get exposed to cold temperatures for a particular period or even scratching
the coats of the seeds. In fact, some seeds may require both processes before germination can occur.

Additionally, seeds must be allowed sufficient moisture and oxygen, as well the as the right temperature
to germinate. Some particular species may further need light to germinate, while light hinders some other
species from germinating. In a controlled environment, all these have to be treated with attention, coupled
with a thorough understanding of the type or species of plants that you —the home gardener— are saving
seeds from. All these affect the germination and eventual seeding of such plants.

Types of Seed Dormancy

There are two major types of seed dormancy: Primary and Secondary dormancy.

Primary Dormancy

The mechanisms of primary dormancy can be further sub-classified into two; the seed coat dormancy and
embryo dormancy.

41
Seed Coat Dormancy

Several species of plants that have seed coats are usually protected from moisture and oxygen, as the seed
coats do not allow the passage of moisture and oxygen, i.e. they are impermeable. The legume family
contains species of seeds that are hard seeded. Other particular seeds, such as cotoneaster allow some
layers of the seeds to become dry and provide additional seed coats for the seeds. Spinach seeds also
develop a layer of mucilage in high moisture conditions. This mucilage prevents the passage of oxygen to
the embryo.

There is another variation of seed coat dormancy, where the seed coat mechanically begins to resist the
swelling of the endosperm. This delay helps in delaying the uptake of water amd interferes with the
emergence of the radicle. This type of dormancy appears in peaches, pecans etc.

An additional type of seed coat dormancy is affected by the presence of certain chemicals in certain seeds
that goes on to inhibit germination. These chemicals have to be drained away from the seeds before any
form of germination may occur.

Further, the tough seed coats known as the endocarp may prevent this draining of chemicals. For fleshy
fruits such as tomatoes, apples, grapes etc., the juice may prevent the seeds from germinating, while the
hull of seeds such as sweetpea and mustard prevent germination. Therefore, to get rid of seeds dormancy
in these species of seeds, you need to breach the seed coat, to allow water and oxygen to get to the
embryo. This process of breaching the seed coat is known as "scarification."

Embryo Dormancy

Internal dormancy may be attributed to a number of factors, including the presence of hormones or
hormone substances in such seed embryos that may result in germination. This type of dormancy can be
found in tree seeds, including maples, white ash etc. Finally, embryo dormancy may either be shallow
(weak), intermediate or even a strong (deep) dormancy.

Combined Dormancy

Combined dormancy occurs when there are tow or more primary dormancies present within the seed.
Therefore, to ensure the germination of the seed, you must ensure that each dormancy is treated
separately.

Secondary Dormancy

42
Secondary dormancy occurs when the seeds, which initially had a nonexistent or broken dormancy, enters
a second dormancy. Secondary dormancy may be induced by the handling of the seeds after they have
been collected. Other seeds, such as pine seeds, may move into secondary dormancy if such seeds are
exposed to high temperatures —known as thermodormancy— and moisture, especially after they are
shed.

If you further attempt to germinate certain seeds at temperatures considered too-high fro such seeds, the
temperature can result in thermodormancy of the seeds. Even when the temperature eventually returns to
the optimum level, these seeds will not germinate. Therefore, handling this situation requires that you
avoid germinating these seeds in high temperatures in all its entirety. Peradventure these seeds have been
exposed high atmospheric conditions, it is best to start over with new seeds.

Overcoming Seed Dormancy

Over ages, nature has found a way in upturned seed dormancy. Also, the various treatments farmers and
gardeners use treating such dormancy have been devised, with the aim of mimicking the effects of nature
on such seed dormancy.

First, we scarify the seeds using sandpaper. This imitates the effect of the scratching and scraping of seeds
that usually take place inside a bird's crop. We can also use acdif treatments to scarify the seeds in a
chemical manner, imitating what happens to a seed when it goes through the digestive tract of an animal.

Farmers can also simulate the pre-chilling treatment that seeds naturally undergo as such seeds stay on the
surface of the soil during winter. This mimicry of nature is known as "stratification." When a gardener
imitates the warm, natural conditions that a seed is naturally meant to undergo before it sheds, this is
known as "warm stratification."
Nature employs rain to wash away seed coat inhibitors, while farmers imitate the rain the rain water soaks
instead.

Treatment For Seed Coat Dormancy

Before we move any further, I must reiterate that the essence of treating seed coat dormancy is to breach
or scarily the seed coat. These treatments many also be combined with other procedures such as
stratification to get improved results. However, scarification doesn't necessarily work for all seeds.
Therefore, you need to understand the proper treatment to overcome seed dormancy based on the species
of seeds you're saving.

● Cold-Water Soak: For some seeds, soaking the seeds of some species that are hard seeded in
water may be the solution to overcome such seed's dormancy. The seeds must be soaked in water
for 1 to 2 days at room temperature to overcome the dormancy of the seeds. This method is

43
 known to be quite effective for peas and other legumes. After these seeds have been soaked, they
should be planted immediately or placed our to be stratified, in accordance with their species.

● Hot-Water Soak: For this kind of treatment, enough water should be placed in a pan amd boiled.
After it has boiled, you place the seeds into the pan and leave it there with the water as the water
cools.

The hot water acts as an agent of scarification, causing the seed coats to Crack after softening them. This
is followed by the intake of water into the seeds —imbibtion. This type of treatment further acts as a
procedure to leach out inhibitors of germination from the seeds. Various species of seeds, such as
legumes respond very well to hot water soaks. There are some other species, however, that may turn a
different, lighter shade of their color when dipped in this hot water treatment and are ready to be
removed. These species of seeds include the honeylocust, black locust etc.

In cases where such species as mentioned above are still dark, you need to putt them back into the water
to soak for longer, or even restart the treatment. However, once these seeds have been soaked and brought
out they need to be planted immediately, otherwise, dormancy may be induced again.

● Hot Wire or Boring: This is another style of treatment for seed dormancy, especially in cases
where both hot and cold water soaks do not do the trick.

For this particular type of treatment, you need to use a heated needled, a tiny drill bit or electric wood-
burning tool to either burn or bore small holes through the seed coats. This way, seeds that have been
rated can be returned to the storage buildings for a short time after they have been treated.

● Medical Treatment: You can also medically scarily your seeds, as this treatment of simple, safe
and is quite often used as a treatment method amongst gardeners.

Seed coats can be scarified with either a triangular file or a knife. This process can also be achieved by
rolling the seeds between two pieces of sandpaper. Although, you must be careful to ensure that you do
not injure yourself during this process, and also not damage the embryo, but only breach through the seed
coat.

Treatment For Internal Dormancy

There are treatments available for internal seed dormancy, one of which includes a mosit chilling period.
This technique engages the stratification of seeds by alternating layers of seeds and sand set outside
during the winter season. Some seeds may need to go through a particular period of cold treatment to
overcome its dormancy, while some other seeds may need to also use a warm period, then followed by a
cold period, amd then another warm period that is finally followed by a cold period.

44
These treatments afford the seeds a period of afteripening, which ensures that the embryos mature.

Acid Treatment

For those that are seasoned experts in producing and saving seeds, they oftentimes soak these seeds in
acid to scarily the seeds. This procedure is quite dangerous and can result in grievous harm or injury when
the acid spills. The purpose for discussing this type of treatment in this book is for further knowledge and
enlightenment, and should only be used by professionals.

This procedure involves Soaking the seeds in a highly concetrated portion of sulfuric acid —particularly
at 95 percent— for several minutes or hours, in line with the species 9f seeds being dealt with.
Professionals are very wary of these precautions during this treatment and:

1. Perform such treatment outdoors, as outdoors is the best place for such scarification of seeds. If it
must be done indoors, it must be done in a place that is througjly ventilated.

2. Wear protective clothing before and during such procedure, including rubber gloves, eye
protection, and respirators.

3. Such professionals always ensure that water does not come into contact with acid for whatever
reason, beaide water can cause the acid to splatter recklessly in every direction.

4. Ensure that the seeds are surface-dry. This is because if wet seeds are poured into the chemical
treatment, it can cause the acid to splatter and cause possible grievous injury. Asides from
causing injuries, the contact of water with the seeds can cause a dangerous chemical reaction and
intense heat. This intense heat is not good both for the
professionals and the seeds.

5. Ensure that the dry seeds are placed in a basket made of copper screening. This is because the
entire basket is usually lowered into the acidic treatment.

6. While treating the seeds, enough acidic treatment should be used to cover the seeds to, af least,
twice their depth. Further, the seeds should be stirred a few times while in the chemical
treatement to reduce the overheating of the seeds.

7. Additionally, no more than 20 pounds of seed should be treated at the same time. This ensures
that the acid does not overheat and causse serious injuries to both the seeds and the professionals.

After the seed have been processed, fhe sees basket should be removed from the acid and placed under
running water for at least, 20 minutes. This will help to tjrougkky rinse away the acid. After rinsing the
seeds, the now scarred seeds are placed onto a screen that allows the seeds to surface-dry before they are
planted.

45
The Stratification of Seeds

Stratification is done under moist conditions with seeds that are imbibe. One key takeaway from this
procedure is that stratification cannot be done without mosit conditions. For stratification, there are
usually done at intervals, which are between 1 to 6 months, amd can be dependent on a ton of factors.

One of the major factors includes the fact that; when these seeds are exposed to winter and endure such a
period, the seeds will take much longer to go through the stratification process. Another major factor is
the type of the plant, as some of these seeds may not require stratification.

When it comes to stratification, one of the easiest ways of this methods is to plant the seeds outdoors in
the garden, or even in nursery beds so that these seeds can undergo the winter conditions. During such
period, the seeds should be provided with a winter mulch, as this mulch will reduce heaving.

As a home garderner, you can also stratify seeds through the mixing of imbibed seeds with moist
sawdust, peat moss or even the use of bags in packing this mix, where you then store the bags inside a
room temperature adequate for the seeds, as well as with the proper length of time. Alternatively, you can
just place the imbibed seeds into a plastic bag without the sawdust or peat moss, and then go across to
place the bag in a cold storage unit. This is sometimes referred referred as "naked stratification."

Generally, when refrigerating imbibed seeds, these seeds must have a certain temperature at which they
must be stored —33 to 41° F (0.5-5°C). This is in addition to the length of time specified for such
stratification in line with the species you are dealing with. The only vital rule that applies all-round is that,
during stratification, the seeds must must cool and not frozen. The seeds need to be moist, but they don't
need to be heavily surrounded by ice.

When it comes to dealing with small seeds, it is generally difficult to deal with such seeds when wet.
Therefore, it is better to, first of all, sow such seeds in peat moss or sand in pots or flats. After sowing
them, they should be watered before being placed in the entire containers either outdoors or in the
refrigerator for the process of stratification. Flower seeds are most favorable plants with this kind of
stratification.

If you want to stratify your seeds the old-fashioned way, you can start by sowing the seeds in flats or
sand. After that, you dig a hole outdoors in your garden or home —a hole that should not be more more a
foot deep. The flats should covered with straw, before the hole is then refilled with soil. The flats should
be left in the hole over the winter season, ensuring that the seeds remain cold and moist during the
stratification period.

This technique of stratification registers a high successful rate with bony amd hard seeds such as the seeds
found in oak, acorns etc.

In cases where a seed has been stratified, but wasn't planted, do not put such seeds back into the storage.
Stratified seeds with a moisture content level of less than 10 percent usually enter a period of secondary
dormancy. Further, the length of the stratification period differs amongst species and these seeds have

46
certain conditions in which they optimally stratify. As a home gardener, the aim during stratification, wod
be to reproduce those conditions during your treatment.

The timeframe of stratification also hinges on whether the plant prefers to grow in a warm climate or cool
climate. For instance, there are some seeds grown in the north of America, which are quite adapted to
long winters. These seeds would therefore require longer periods of stratification than its southern
counterparts that are used to shorter and milder winters.

Warm Stratification

There are some species of plants, particularly woody plants that show a complex nature of embryo
dormancy and this, tend to germinate rather quickly under a warm-stratification treatment, before even
undergoing the standard routinely stratification. Seeds that need warm stratification are usually treated in
hotbed, warm basements and greenhouses by covering such seeds with a moist paper or burlap, with the
temperature for such stratification depending on the species of the plants.

Light Treatment

For species of seeds that possessed a shallow, internal photodormancy, these seeds will germinate if, after
imbibtion, such seeds are then exposed to cretain wavelengths of red light, particularly between 660 to
760 nanometers. On the other hand, germination will be reversed where the same species of seeds are
exposed to darkness, or too much wavelengths of far red-light, which will be around 760-800 nanometers.

One perfect example of seed that follows this rule is lettuce seed. If the seed is buried too deeply into the
soil, it is exposed to more far red-light than it should be, especially since red-light does not penetrate the
soil as deeply as far red-light. This ames the seed tonfemain dormant. Therefore, photosensitive seeds
don't need to be buried at all.

Germination-Enhancement Treatments

● Microwave Treatment: There are some seeds, such as peppers that are usually known to have a
lower rate of germination. One technique that has been found to increase the rate of germination
is microwaving the seeds. For you to do this, you need to place the seeds in a thin layer in a
container that is suitable for the purpose, and microwave the seeds for about 10 to 15 seconds.
This might also take some initiative and experimentation from you —the home gardener— to
find the right amount of time needed for your specific seed lots.

The radiation that emanates from the microwave has been found by researchers to change the
permeability of the seed coat, causing changes within the seed that quickens germination. Of course, the
excg effect of microwaving depends on the seed moisture content and the type of species being treated.

47
Therefore, it is advisable to try this technique using small lots of seeds until you find what works for your
specific seeds.

● Mixing Seed Lots of the Same Variety: One of the easiest ways of engaging germination in seeds,
is to combine two lots of seeds that gave been germination-tested. One lot of seed should have a
high germination rate, while the other seed lot should have a lower germination rate. These lots
are seeds are the thoroughly mixed, before the new percentage of germination is calculated.

This technique has been proven to be useful to companies that strive to meet market demand, especially
when certain seeds are in short supply Or even prevent throwing away seeds. With this technique, the
seed that has the lower germination score should not be as originally low in germination as it was before
it was mixed. It should be noted, however, that this technique should not be used on seeds that are below
the federal standard, because the seeds with low germination rate may cause too much variability. For
organic growers, you must ensure that both lots of seeds have been certified organic. The mixed seed is
then given a new identification number, although there are records that will show the original germination
and data of the seed lots.

● Additional Seed Processing: The seeds that can be enhanced through this method are seeds that
have been winnowed during the seed cleaning process.

Pumpkin, melons, lettuce etc are all types of crops that have seeds that are intensely windowed. The
essence of winnnowing is to remove the lighter seeds that are not properly matured and well-filtered out.

Factors That Affect Seed Germination

There are some environmental factors that affect the germination of seeds, and they include moisture,
temperature, light and air.

Moisture

Moisture is an important environmental factor that kicks off the germination process. Therefore, the
consistent and sufficient moisture of the seeds during this germination process is far more useful than
alternating periods where the seeds experience dryness and saturation. However, it should also be noted
that too much moisture can also saturate the soil, lessening the aeration of the soil and generally
becoming an obstacle to the healthy growth of the seedlings.

Where the seeds are faced with saturated conditions, the seed coats split open but the embryos of the
seeds may either suffocate or rot due to the lack oxygen. Lack of moisture om the other hand, will lead to
the retardation of growth and germination and crusting over of the soil. It will also lead to the inability of
the seeds to properly absorb the needed nutrients. Thus, the seed begins to suffer from a lack of nitrogen,
iron, magnesium and other vital nutrients. Where germination may have already taken place, the

48
emergence of the seedling may be hindered by the crusted soil or potting mix, leading to the shrivelling of
the seeds and eventual death.

In essence, moderation is quite essential when it comes to home gardening, or farming in general. When
you start by ground your plants indoors, the best way to ensure adequate moisture content of the seed is
by bottom-watering. This is come by setting the entire pots or flats into a shallow pan of water. This way,
the medium then absorb the water from the bottom. When it is clear that the medium atop the pots or flats
is moist, you can remove the flats from the water.

In cases where the abie technique is not feasible, you can cover the medium surface after sowing the
seeds but before watering them. A perfect example of a medium for this purpose would be a newspaper.
The newspaper is laid directly on the surface of the seed-starting mix. The paper serves to break the effect
of the water from the sprinkling can, while doubling as mulch that regulates the surface drying.

Once the seedlings begin to sprout, it is important to remove the paper, using a spray bottle to gente water
the young plants daily. Where the species of seeds you're dealing with requires light to germinate
effectively, the surface of the flat should be loosely covered with a plastic wrap.

Temperature

Temperate-zone plants germinate across a wide variety of temperatures, however, the optimum range for
germination of seeds for most species falls within 68° to 86°F (20°-30°C). For plants such as brocolli,
cabbage, carrots etc. that are tolerant with the cool-tempreatures, these seeds germinate from a minimum
so about 34°F (1°C) to a maximum of 104°F (40°C), depending on the unique species of the of the seeds.

Then, there are seed that are not only tolerant of the cool temperatures, but require these cool
trmepreatires to germinate. These species are quite adapted to the Mediterranean area of need no
temperature higher than 77°F (25°C). These species of seeds include lettuce, onion, celery, primrose etc.

Generally germination best occurs when the temperature is at the optimum for the seeds, rather than being
in either extremes of the temperature range. However, it should be stated that with some species, optimum
germination may not be the goal. For instance, watermelon seeds require a temperature are of 95°F
(35°C). Therefore, if your attempt to direct sow the seeds int yor garden, the growing season may not be
adequate enough for you to grow such seeds. Likewise, lettuce seeds prefer an optimum range of 77°F
(25°C), where the temperature is quite warm. In essence, certain "optimum" temperature for seeds may
not be really optimum to plant.

Woody plants and perennials have their sees germinating at alternating temperatures of about 68°F (20°C)
at night and 86°F (30°C) during the day. A fluctuation of 10° to 18° F (6° to 10° C) may improve the rate
of germination, thus proving more important than the cardinal temperatures needed.

49
Air and Light

Except in cases of the seeds being buried too deep, planted in areas that have being waterlogged or even
planted in soils that are densely compacted, oxygen usually isn't a major problem during the germination
of seeds.

The function of light during the growth process of seeds is not so simple, and partly depends on how the
seeds were handled before germination. As we have earlier stated, most seeds do not generally require
light to germinate, and in fact, light hinders germination in some certain species of seeds. However, some
species still need light to germinate. These types of species usually include woodland or swamp species.
Grasses, sorrel and even celery require light to germinate.

The effect of light in the germination of some certain species of seeds not only depends on the distinct
species, but also whether the seeds were sown fresh or otherwise. A general rule of thumb amongst
experienced gardeners is that we plant small seeds such as lettuce, petunia and fox glove shallowly,
giving such seeds the opportunity opportunity receive adequate light. Alternatively, these seeds can be
sprinkled atop the soil and pressing the seed into the soil with you hand or a board. Not adhering to this
rule of thumb simply implies that the seeds won't germinate.

Another issue to consider when considering the lighting of seeds for germination is the quality of the
light, as well as its intensity. For instance, incandescent lights are rich in both the far-red and and ref parts
of the light, subsequently giving off too much heat, which can pose to be a problem for the seeds.
Floursscent lights can hinder the germination of seeds of some ericaceous species, as these kinds of light
are rich in blue parts of the spectrum and not the red part. Asides these species and their likes, most
species of seeds that need light to germinate do not show preference to any part of the spectrum and can
therefore, germinate healthily under any light.

How To Test Germination Rate

How To do Your Own Tests

There is a genre preference amongst growers to sell seed wholesale, leaving the testing of germination of
the seed to the companies that are fully and adequately equipped equipped do such. However, as a home
gardener, you can test the germination rate of your seeds by yourself. This purpose is to enable you to
carry out tests that you can do on your own. These tests may not be fully legislated upon, but they are
effective in achieving their purpose.

The supplies needed include thick paper towels, tweezers or forceps, ziplock bags, plastic boxes that will
be used as honeycomb for seeds that are dependent on light. As replacement for germination chambers,
you can place the seeds untop of a refrigerator or heater.

50
To carry out a germination test, select 100 seeds and place them somewhat diistant from each other,
usually not any closer than ½". The seeds should be spread out on the upper half of the moist upper part
of the paper towel, while the lower half of the paper towel is folded over the top half, with a fold every 2
to 3 inches, all being held loosely by a rubber band. You the place the towels vertically in plastic trays or
refrigerator containers that are then placed in the germination chamber or suitable replacement.

These containers should be covered loosely with the zip-lock or plastic bags that normally aid in locking
in the moisture content of the seeds. They are also loosely closed because the seeds still need air. Twice a
day, these towels should be inspected and sprayed lightly as deemed necessary. For most vegetable crops,
they germinate between 7 to 14 days. While making your first count, remove the seeds that have
germinated. When the final count is done, score the remaining seeds and doscarf the towels.

For those seeds that are dependent on light, they should be placed on blotter paper within those plastic
honey boxes. The germination chamber should be able to provide enough light that satisfies the seed's
requirements for light. Although, it should be noted noted test scores with 100 seeds are just fair,
however, with about 400 seeds,.you should be able to get the best and almost accurate results.

Testing By Laboratories

For even better germinating scores, you should engage the services of your state's seed-testing laboratory
to find out the necessary requirements to carry out the test. For instance, in the state of Virginia, a
minimum of 1000 seeds are needed for a test.

THE TABLE

S See Fa Num Flo When Locat When Oth Colle Poll Sto Germ
/ d mil ber wer to ion in to er ction inati rag inatio
N y of Stru collec plant/ germin pla on e n
Na pictu cture t flowe ate for nts
me re seeds r cultivat the
(1.1) ion y

51
 can
mat
e
wit
h

1. AR Bra 1.0 Thes You It can Towar No It can Cro It It can

UG ssic e are collec be ds the ne be ss is be
UL ace perf t found ending coole poll sto germi
A ae; ect when along of cted inati red nated
mu flow they the summe on. in at a
throu
star ers are stem r a temp
d dried
gh Co eratur
Grazi
fam out ld e of
ng,
ily and an 60 to
cuttin
brow d 77°F
g or
n mo (16
pullin
ist to
g.
en 25°C
vir ).
om
ent
.

2 AS Lili 1.1 It is You Withi From The You It is Sto It can

PA ace Bell- collec n Middle y can poll re be
RA ae; shap t little februar can collec inat it germi
GU lily ed, when red y till mat t ed by nated
S fam whit they berrie may e either by ke at
ily ish begin s. wit way; Inse epi temp
gree to h Cut ct ng eratur
n, dry. We ferns poll it es
and edy with inati Dr betw
smal pla berrie on y een
l. nts s then and an 70
In wait Cro d and
com till it ss in 80°F
paris dries poll a (21
on or inati pa and
to Pick on. per 27°C
fema each en ).
le berry vel
flow by op
ers, itself e.
male before
flow the
ers first
are frost
smal
ler.

52
 The
spea
rs on
the
fema
le
plant
s are
simi
larly
thick
er
and
fewe
r
than
thos
e on
the
male
plant
s.

3. CA Bra 1.2 Chin You The Hand It is Sto Apt

BB ssic ese collec y picke don re soil
AG ace cabb t can d By e by in temp
E, ae; age when mat Rubbi Cro a eratur
CH mu bear most e ng the ss pla e for
INE star s of the wit pod poll sti seed
SE d perf pods h betwe inati c germi
fam ect turn oth en on. ba natio
ily flow pale er your g n is
ers brow Bra hand or 65 to
n. ssic air 70°F
a por (18
rap t to
a co 21°C
cro nta )
ps: ine
so r
me
mu
star
ds,
bro
cco
li
raa
b,
and

53
 turn
ips.

4. CA Api 1.3 Perf Once Wit Rubbi Poll Air Carro

RR ace ect they h ng the inati tig ts are
OT ae; and start the seeds on ht slow
par born turnin Qu betwe is co amd
sley e in g een en by nta take
fam com brow An ones Cro ine 1-3
ily poun n. ne's hands ss r week
d lace poll in s and
umb (Da inati a often
els ucu on: co germi
mad s Inse ol, nate
e car ct dry unev
of ota) and am enly
seco . han d over
ndar d dar sever
y poll k al
clust inati pla week
ers on ce s. 
calle
d
umb
ellet

5. CH Api 1.4 Thes You Hand Poll Wi Opti

ER ace e are can picke inati nn mumt
VIL ae; smal either d on ow empe
, par l, bag is ex rature
SA sley whit indivi by ces for
LA fam e, dual Inse s germi
D ily perf heads ct pla natio
ect after and nt n is
flow pollin han ma 50 to
ers ation d teri 68°F
toget or cros al. (10
her pull s to
in entire poll 20°C
com plants inati ).
poun as the on. Seeds
d seeds need
umb ripen light
els and for
hang germi
them natio
to dry n, so
over a surfa
tarp ce-
to sow

54
 collec them
t only.
fallen
seeds

6. CH Fab Chic Withh Hand Poll Air Perfe

IC ace kpea old collec inati tig ct
KP ae; is an water ted on ht soil
EA leg annu after is co temp
um al pods Self nta eratur
e plant have - ine e for
fam with set. poll r germi
ily flow Pull inati in natio
ers entire on a n is
that plants dry 70 to
are if co 85°F
perf you ol (21
ect live pla to
and in a ce 29°C
self- damp ).
polli area
natin and
g. hang
them
to dry
in a
warm
, dry
spot.
Each
pod
will
contai
n one
or
two
seeds.

7. CH Ast Chic When Hand Inse Sto Opti

IC era ory most picke cts red mum
OR cea has of the d are by temp
Y, e; self- flowe typi Wi eratur
WI sun inco rs call nn e for
TL flo mpat have y ow sowi
OO wer ible set, the ing ng is
F fam perf stop one ex 68°F
ily ect wateri s ces (20°
flow ng who s C). If
er and perf pla seeds
allow orm nt do

55
 plants cros ma not
and s teri germi
achen poll al nate,
es to inati or stratif
dry in on. lea y
the ve them
field. see for 4
The d week
achen he s and
es ads retur
shoul . n to
d be 68°F
as
firm,
dry,
and
brow
n as
possi
ble
befor
e
harve
st

8. CO Bra bear Wait Cuttin Inse Air The

LL ssic s until g ct tig optim
AR ace perf most branc poll ht um
DS ae; ect of the hes or inat co soil
mu flow pods harve ed nta temp
star ers turn sting usin ine eratur
d light whole g r e for
fam brow plabts cros in germi
ily n s a natio
befor poll col n is
e inati l, 65 to
pickin on dry 70°F
g pla (18
ce to
21°C
).
Seeds
germi
nate
in 3
to 4
days

9. CO Poa 1.8 The Ears The Hand Cor Sif Opti

RN cea tasse are see picke n t mum

56
 e; ls usuall d d poll thr soil
gra are y can inati ou temp
ss the ready mat on gh eratur
fam male to be e is an e for
ily inflo harve wit by y germi
resc sted h Win pla natio
ence for oth d nt n
. seed er poll de range
The from cor inati bri s
silks 4 to 6 n on. s. from
are weeks vari 60 to
actu after etie 95°F
ally they s. (16
stig have to
mas; reach 35°C
they ed ).
are eating
cove stage
red
with
tiny
hairs
and
are
part
of
the
fema
le
inflo
resc
ence
s—
what
we
call
the
“ear
s

1 CU Cuc 1.9 Thes Select Mat Scoop Thr Air Do

0. CU urbi e large, es out oug tig not
MB tace seed overri wit the h ht plant
ER ae; s are pe h seeds. Han co befor
squ Imp fruits all d nta e the
ash erfec for typ poll ine soil
t seed es inati r has
flow savin and on in reach
ers g, and vari a ed at
allow etie co least

57
 them s of ol, 60°F
to cuc dry (16°F
ripen um an );
on or ber d 95°F
off s. dra (35°
the k C) is
vine pla the
in a ce maxi
cool, mum
dry optim
place al
for at soil
least temp
5 eratur
weeks e for
after planti
eating ng
stage, cucu
until mber
they
have
turne
d
yello
w,
white,
orang
e, or
brow
n in
color

1 EG Sol 2.0 Egg Allow Mat Slice Pri Air Opti

1. GP ana plant ing es the mar tig mum
LA cea flow the wit eggpl ily ht range
NT e; ers fruits h ant self- co of
nig are to diff and poll nta soil
hts perf overri ere bring inati ine temp
had ect pe nt out ng r eratur
e and vari the but in e for
fam fall to etie seeds. can a germi
ily the s of Wash also co natio
groun egg them be ol, n is
d is pla and cros dry 80 to
the nt. pat s an 90°F
best them poll d (27
best dry inat dar to
way ed k 32°C
collec byI pla )
t the nsec ce

58
 seeds. t

1 FE Api 2.1 Umb Select Mat Seal a By Ke Opti

2. NN ace els seeds es bag Inse ep mum
EL ae; hold from wit over ct in soil
par the late- h the poll an temp
sley smal boltin oth seed inati airt eratur
fam l g er heads on. igh es for
ily flow plants vari and t fenne
ers that ety shake co l seed
in have of to nta germi
plac the fen releas ine natio
e. size nel e the r n are
bulb seeds in 50
you a to
prefer co 75°F
. Use ol, (10
care dry to
when an 24°C
collec d ).
ting dar
seeds k
becau pla
se the ce
dry
umbel
s
shatte
r
easily
.

1 KA Bra 2.2 flow Wait Close Inse Sto The

3. LE ssic ers until in a ct re optim
ace are most paper poll the um
ae; perf of the bag inati m soil
mu ect pods and on in temp
star turn shake a eratur
d light vigor pa e for
fam brow ously per germi
ily n en natio
befor vel n is
e op 65 to
pickin e 70°F
g or (18
them gla to
ss 21°C
or ).
cer Seeds
am germi

59
 ic nate
jar in 3
s to 4
an day
d
lab
el
the
m

1 KO Bra 2.3 Flo Wait Close Inse Sto The

4. HL ssic wers until in a ct re optim
RA ace are most paper poll in um
BI ae; perf of the bag inati a soil
mu ect pods and on pa temp
star turn shake per eratur
d light vigor ba e for
fam brow ously g germi
ily n or natio
befor en n is
e vel 65 to
pickin op 70°F
g e (18
them or to
in 21°C
a ).
gla Seeds
ss germi
or nate
cer in 3
am to 4
ic days
jar.

1 LE Fab 2.4
5. NTI ace
L ae;
leg
um
e
fam
ily

1 ME Cuc 2.5 You By

6 LO urbi collec Inse
N tace t at ct
ae; the and
squ “full han
ash slip” dcro
fam stage, ss

60
 ily or poll
when inati
a on.
melon
cleanl
y
separ
ates
from
the
pedic
el
when
pulled
only
gently
.

1 MU Bra 2.6 Thes Mat

7 ST ssic e es
AR ace seed wit
D ae; s are h
mu perf all
star ect vari
d and etie
fam rese s of
ily. mble B.
thos jun
e of cea
othe will
r cro
Bras ss-
sica poll
crop inat
s e,
incl
udi
ng
wee
dy
mu
star
ds
suc
h as
Indi
an
mu
star
d.it

61
 will
cro
ss
wit
h
Chi
nes
e
cab
bag
e as
wel
l.

1 NE Tet 2.7 Thes You By No

8 W rag e collec Cro for
ZE oni seed t ss m
AL ace s are when poll of
AN ae; Inco the inati Sto
D car nspi seed on rag
SPI pet cuou is by e
NA wee s green win
CH d perf or d or
fam ect brow inse
ily flow n, cts,
ers when
they
have
reach
ed
matur
e size
and
been
allow
ed to
dry
off
the
vine

1 PE Fab 2.8 The A By

9. A ace papil chang Self
ae; iona e of poll
leg ceou colou inati
um s r in on
e flow the
fam ers seeds
ily are and
perf pods

62
 ect indica
seed tes
s harve
st
matur
ity for
seed
collec
tion.

2 PE Fab 2.9 Time Mat By

0. AN ace for es Self
UT ae; collec wit poll
leg tion is h inati
um when Oth on
e the er
fam leaves vari
ily start etie
to s of
turn pea
yello nut.
w and
the
weath
er is
dry

2 PE Sol 3.0 seed When Mat By

1 PP ana s are they es Cro
ER cea perf look wit ss
S e; ect red. h poll
nig and diff inati
hts have ere on
had the nt
e sam vari
fam e etie
ily form s of
with pep
toma per
to s.
seed
,
exce
pt
the
anth
ers
do
not
fully

63
 encl
ose
the
stig
ma.

2 RA Bra 3.1 The Colle Mat

2 DIS ssic y are ct es
H ace Perf when wit
ae; ect indivi h
mu flow dual any
star ers. pods oth
d beco er
fam me radi
ily brow sh
n. vari
ety
blo
omi
ng
in
the
gar
den
at
the
sam
e
tim
e,
as
wel
l as
wit
h
wil
d
radi
she
s

2 RH Pol 3.2 Thes Time

3 UB ygo e for
AR nac Flo collec
B eae; wer tion is
buc stalk when
kw is the
hea pani achen
t culat es are
fam e. dry

64
 ily. and
flaky
and
befor
e they
tear
down
in the
wind.

2 SPI Che 3.3 The You Mat By Germ

4 NA nop flow collec es win inatio
CH odi ers t as wit d n
ace of soon h poll happ
ae; spin as the diff inati ens at
goo ach plants ere on. Mini
sef are turn nt mum
oot smal yello vari soil
fam l and w etie temp
ily lack s of eratur
petal spi e of
s.. nac 35°F
h. (2°C)
, and
optim
um
germi
natio
n is
achie
ved
when
soil
is 45
to
75°F
(7 to
24°C

2 SQ Cuc 3.4 Thes You Mat By Germ

5 UA urbi e collec es Inse inatio
SH tace seed t wit ct n
ae; s are when h poll happ
squ Imp the Cuc inati ens
ash erfec rinds urbi on when
fam t are ta soil
ily⁰ flow hard vari temp
ers. and etie eratur
The yello s e is
male w like and 70 to

65
 flow spe 95°F
er cie. (21
stalk to
is 35°C
strai ).
ght
and
thin,
whil
e
that
of
the
fema
le
has
an
ovar
y
rese
mbli
ng
that
of a
squa
sh.

2 TO Sol 3.5 Thes Colle By It

6 MA ana e ct Self germi
TIL cea seed when poll nates
LO e; s are fully inati at 75
nig Perf ripe on. to
hts ect and 90°F
had flow ready (24
e ers. to eat. to
fam 32°C
ily ) soil
temp
eratur
e

2 TO Sol 3.6 Thes Colle . By The

7 MA ana e are ct Self ideal
TO cea perf when poll soil
e; ect fully inati temp
nig flow ripe on. eratur
hts ers, and e
had with set to range
e the eat. for
fam pisti germi

66
 ily l natio
encl n of
osed tomat
by a o
cone seed
of is 65
anth to
ers. 75°F
(18
to
24°C
),
with
mini
mum
soil
temp
eratur
e of
about
50°F
(10°
C)

2 TU Bra 3.7 Thes Once ). Mat By Ideal

8 RN ssic e are major es Inse soil
IP ace perf ity of wit ct temp
ae; ect the h poll eratur
mu flow pods sev inati e for
star ers turn eral on germi
d flow light co natio
fam ers brow mm n of
il n. on turni
veg p
eta seeds
ble range
cro s
ps from
are 60 to
vari 105°
etas F (16
of to
Bra 41°C
ssic ).
a
rap
a,
and
the
y

67
 can
all
cro
ss-
poll
inat
e
eac
h
oth
er.

2 UN Ma 3.8 Flo Once . Mat By For

9 IC rtyn wers green es Inse optim
OR iace from fruits wit ct al
N ae; unic shed h poll germi
PL uni orn their vari inati natio
AN cor plant hairy etie on n,
T n s are green s Soil
fam held casin wit temp
ily in g, hin eratur
loos expos eac es
e ing h shoul
race the spe d be
mes dark cies betw
and wood of een
are y uni 75
quite seedp cor and
deco od n 90°F
rativ pla (24
e. nt and
32°C
).

3 WA Cuc 3.9 Fem Starti Mat By Seeds

0 TE urbi ale ng es Han germi
RM tace flow from wit d nate
EL ae; ers 70 to h poll best
ON squ have 110 Wa inati when
ash a days ter on. soil
fam smal from mel temp
ily l, planti on eratur
wate ng, vari es are
rmel depen etie between 80
on- ding s and 90°F
shap on the and (27 and
ed locati will 32°C).
ovar on, cro Seeds will
y envir ss- germinate
unde onme poll in 3 to 12

68
 r the nt, inat days,
flow fertilit e depe
er. y, one nding
Mal water ano on
e availa ther the
flow bility, , temp
er and and eratur
stem other the
s are variab y
strai les. will
ght also
and cro
thin. ss
wit
h
citr
on
(C.
lan
atus
).

3 AG La 4. The Once when soil when soil

1. AS mia 0 y they temperatures temperatures
TA cea have have reach 68°F reach 68°F
CH e; perf brow (20°C) (20°C)
E min ect nred
t flow
fam ers
ily and
a are
arra
nged
on
long
spik
es.

3 BO Bor 4.1 The Oncet Mid spring . Dr You

2. RA agi y are he y can
GO nac perf flowe an germi
eae; rs are d
ect nate
bor dry co
age flow ol them
fam ers sto at
ily that rag about
have e. 68°F
tiny (20°
blue C) in
that a

69
 are dark
born place
e in .
cym
es.

3 AL Lili 4.2 The Once Withi Late No Flail, Dr At

3. LIU ace y the n the summe ne rub or yin 50°F
M ae; have seeds fruit. r, thresh g (10°
lily smal start midwi C)
fam l turnin nter or
ily perf g fall
ect brow
flow n
ers
born
e in
an
umb
els

3 CH ; 4.3 The Once By It’s In a

4 EN goo y they Rubbi sto temp
OP sef have beco ng or red eratur
OD oot Perf me thresh by e at
IU fam ect brow ing Dr 68°F
M ily flore n. yin (20°
s on g C)
pani and
cpan depth
icles of 2
. inche
s

3 CH Ast 4.4 The Once You By It’s Germ

5 RY era disk the canTu Cro sto inatio
SA cea flow flowe mble, ss red n
NT e; ers rs rub or poll by happ
HE sun are heads flail. inati Dr ens at
MU flo perf matur on yin 65°F
M wer ect, e g (18°
fam wher C).
ily eas
the
ray
flow
ers
pisti

70
 llate

3 CO Api The Once Mat You By Sto Germ

7 RI ace y are they es either Cro red inatio
AN ae; perf dry wit Flail, ss by n
DR par ect befor h rub or poll Dr happ
UM sley flow e they oth thresh inati yin ens 3
fam ers shatte er on g week
ily born r. vari s
e in etie after
umb s sowi
els. ng at
60°F
(16°
C)

3 CRI Api Flo When YouR Sto

8 TH ace wers the ub re
MU ae; are first and by
M par perf set of flail Dr
sley ect Seend yin
fam and turn g
ily arra brow
nged n
in
umb
els

.3 CU Api The Once Colle By 2

9 MI ace y are they cted Dr week
N ae; tiny, brow throu yin s
par umb n and gh g after
sley el- befor Rubbi planti
fam born e they ng ng at
ily e shatte 68°F
flow r. (20°
ers C.)
in
shad
es of
whit
e or
rose.

4 EL Zin Thes Once Either By Plant

0 ET gib e are fruits you Dr at
TA era Perf turn Rub yin 70°F
RI cea ect brow or g (21°
A e; flow n flail C)
gin ers soil

71
 ger on at
fam spik temp
ily es eratur
e. It
will
start
beari
ng
fruit
after
3
years
.

4 FE Api Thes As Done By Errati

1 RU ace e are soon by Dr c.
LA ae; Perf as Rub yin
par ect the and g
sley flow umbel flail
fam ers, s turn
ily smal brow
l and n
born
e in
umb
els.

4 FE Api Thes When During Colle Poll By Germ

2 NN ace e are they Spring ct by inati Dr inatio
EL ae; Perf dry Rubbi on yin n
par ect ng or is g occur
sley flow shaki by s
fam ers, ng off Inse from
ily tiny cts 2
and week
born s
e in from
com planti
poun ng
d when
umb soil
els. is
68°F
(20°
C.)

4 LO Api The Once By Fall By Sto Germ

3 VA ace y are they Thres re iate
GE ae; Perf turn h, rub by seed
par ect brow and Dr by 3

72
 sley gree n flail yin week
fam nish g s
ily yello aftera
w t
flow 68°F
ers (20°
born C).
e in
umb
els

4 B Fab The Onces Cra Cure, By Sto The

5 veg ace y are ome g shell, Self re ideal
etab ae; Perf are wit flail, poll in temp
les leg ect dry h and inati a eratur
BE um flow and sna winno on Dr e for
AN e ers the p w y germi
fam that rest bea an natio
ily are starts ns d n is
arra turnin dar 60 to
nged g k 85°F
in yello pla (16
race w. ce to
mes. 29°C
).

4 BE Fab Thes Once By By Sto Germ

6 AN, ace e are some Thres Self re inate
FA ae; Perf are hing poll in At 59
VA leg ect dry inati a to
(FA um flow and on Dr 77°F
BA e ers. the and y (15
) fam rest som an to
ily turns etim d 25°C
yello es dar in
w. by k soil
inse pla that
cts ces is not
cros stron
s gly
poll acidi
inati c.
on

4 BE Fab Thes Once Mat You By Sto Germ

7 AN, ace e are some es Hand Self re inate
LI ae; Perf are wit pick poll in at an
MA leg ect dry h inati a ideal
um flow and all on Ba temp
e ers. the vari and g eratur

73
 fam rest etie som or e of
ily turn s of etim ca 77 to
yello lim es ge 86°F
w. a cros pla (25
s nts to
poll 30°C
inati ).
on
Is
don
e by
inse
cts

4 BE Che Thes Oncm During Mat To By Sto Germ

8 ET nop e are ost Winter es collec win re inate
odi Perf flowe wit t ,you d in at 50
ace ect rs h cut poll a to
ae; flow turn Sug stalks inati co 85°F
goo ers brow ar and on ol (10
sef held n bee keep an to
oot in t, them d 29°C
fam pani bee bagge dry )
ily cles t d en
vari vir
etie on
s, me
and nt
Swi
ss
cha
rd
poll
en.

4 BR Bra Onc Can By Poll By Germ

9 OC ssic e mat Rubbi inati Dr inate
CO ace most e ng on yin 2
LI ae; of wit is g week
mu the h don s
star pods Ma e by after
d turn ny Inse plaiti
fam light co ct ng at
ily bro mm 68°F
wn. on (20°
veg C.)
eta
ble
cro
ps,

74
 the
y
are
vari
etas
or
“gr
oup
s”
of
Bra
ssic
a
oler
ace
a

5 CA Zin Thes Once Sev You By By Plant

0 ULI gib e are fruits eral Rub Inse Dr at
FL era Perf turn co or ct yin 70°F
OW cea ect brow mm flail poll g (21°
ER e; flow n on inati C)
gin ers veg on soil
ger on eta temp
fam spik ble eratur
ily es cro e. It
ps will
are start
vari beari
etas ng
or ing
“gr fruit
oup in 3
s” years
of .
Bra
ssic
a
oler
ace
a.

5 OR La Thes Once By YouR By Germ

0 IG mia e are dry. Spring ub Dr inates
AN cea Perf and yin withi
UM e; ect thresh g n 14
min flow days
t ers
fam put
ily in

75
 com
plex
clust
ers..

5 NE La Thes Once Beginn YouR By Germ

1 PE mia e are brow ing of ub Dr inate
TA cea Perf n. Spring and yin 2
e; ect thresh g week
min flow s
t ers from
fam and planti
ily Imp ng
erfec
t
flow
ers
born
e
with
spik
es

5 MY Api Thes Youc By Sto Germ

2 RR ace e are ollect Hand re inatio
H ae; Perf seed pickin by n
par ect befor g Dr could
sley tiny e the yin take
fam whit fruits g a
ily e shatte mont
flow r h
ers
born
e in
umb
els

5 ME La Thes While YouT Sto Germ

3 NT mia e are spikes hresh, re inates
HA cea Perf are flail, by few
e; ect brow rub. dry week
min whit n. ing s
t ish after
fam flow planti
ily er ng
born
e in
cym
es.

76
5 BA La The Harve The . The Harve Inse Wr
4 SIL mia flow st the small pla st the ct- ap
cea ers cluste perfe nts cluste Poll the
e; are rs ct ten rs inati bas
min tiny, once flowe d to when on il
t usua they rs are inbr they lea
fam lly turn borne eed brown ves
ily whit brow in wit . in
e in n. racem h When a
colo When es or the the dry
r the panicl hel botto pa
and botto es. p of m per
arra m vari fruits to
nged fruits ous brown we
alon brow inse , l
ga n, cts harve an
spik harve st the d
e st the entire pla
that entire racem ce
gro racem e. ins
ws e. ide
from a
the pla
tip sti
of c
the ba
stem g.
Se
al
an
d
sto
re
for
on
e
to
tw
o
we
eks
.

5 OR La Its c Harve The Plant No You By Sto

5 IG mia omp st the perfect seeds ne. Rub Inse re
AN cea act cluste flower of both and ct- in
UM e; oval rs s are species thresh Poll a
min leav once put in in light inati pla
t es dry compl at 68°F on sti
fam are ex (20°C). c

77
 ily arra cluster It'll ba
nged s. take g
oppo about for
sitel 14 thr
y days ee
and for da
are germin ys
cove ation to
red be
with comple
glan te.
dula
r
trich
ome
s
(pla
nt
hairs
).
Thes
e are
perf
ect
flow
ers.

5 PA Api The Onc Seeds By By Sto

6 RS ace plant the of baggi Inse re
LE ae; struc umbel parsley ng the ct- in
Y par ture s (P. flowe Poll the
sley sho brow crispu rs inat ref
fam ws n and m) can ed rig
il that the be era
the seeds planted tor
blos near at 68°F aft
somi matur (20°C), er
ng ity, and co
of place they ver
the a will ing
plant paper take
take bag roughl
s an over a y 21
umb head, days to
rella tying germin
struc it at ate.
ture. its Seeds
It is base, of
a and Italian
perf allow parsley

78
 ect the (P.
flow shatte crispu
ers red m var.
seeds neapoli
to fall tanum)
into should
the be
bag. soaked
After in
a water
coupl overni
e of ght,
weeks then
, snip sown
the at 68°F
umbel (20°C).
s off
the
plant,
leavin
g
them
in the
bag,
and
allow
them
to dry
furthe
r.

5 PI Api This Harve Plant Colle By Sto

7 MP ace plant st the the ction Inse re
INE ae; is seed seeds is by ct in
LL par char heads in flats placin poll a
A sley min as at 68°F g inat sea
AN fam g they (20°C) them ed led
ISE il with begin and inside an
lacy to allow 2 bags d
leav show weeks in
es signs for an
and of germin airt
a turnin ation igh
prof g t
usio brow co
n of n, or nta
whit bag ine
e them r.
flow to
ers captur

79
 and e the
gro seeds
ws as
as a they
bush shed.
y
orna
ment
al
herb

5 PO Ros The Harve These YouH By Sto

8 TE ace y are st the seeds and Win re
RI ae; tiny, perfec take picke d in
UM ros gree t and about 2 d poll ice
e n, pistill weeks inati cu
fam redd ate to on be
ily ish- flowe germin tra
purp rs ate at ys
le once 68°F an
flow dry. (20°C) d
ers co
on ver
long wit
, h
slen wa
der ter
stem

5 RU Rut The The Germi They By Sto

9 TA ace y are fruits nation areHa Inse re
ae; gree are should nd ct in
citr nish four- occur collec poll a
us yello or within ted inat pa
fam w five- 1 to 2 ed per
ily and lobed weeks ba
its capsu if seeds g
perf les. are in
ect Harve planted a
flow st at 68°F wa
ers them (20°C); rm
are once ,
born they dry
e in are roo
term dried. m
inal
pani
cles.

6 SA La Thes Harve plant By Thr Sto

80
0 LVI mia e st the the Cold oug re
A cea flow flowe seeds pressi h in
e; ers r at 68°F ng Inse Co
min are cluste (20°C) and ct ld
t perf rs by and dryin and An
fam ect hand germin g. self- d
ily and when ation poll dry
born they will inat co
e in dry. happen ed nta
long after 3 ine
clust weeks rs
ers.

6 SA La Thes Harve Surfac They By Put

1 TU mia e st the e-sow are Inse an
REJ cea perf cluste nutlets Hand ct d
A e; ect rs in light picke poll sto
min flow once at 68°F d inati re
t ers they (20°C), on in
fam are dry and a
ily born allow pla
e in about 2 sti
cym weeks c
es. for ba
germin g
ation to in
be the
comple ref
te. rig
Germi era
nation tor
of .
winter
savory
(S.
montan
a)
seeds
is
erratic,
and
you
may
have to
allow
more
time
for
germin
ation to

81
 procee
d.

6 TA Ast The Harve Face- They By

2 NS era tiny st the sow are Inse
Y cea yello heads the Hand ct
e; w once seeds picke poll
sun and they at 68°F d inat
flo perf brow (20°C) ed
wer ect n but in
fam flow befor light. If
ily ers e they within
are shatte a
born r. month
e in it has
clust not
ers germin
at ated,
the stratify
tops them
of for
the another
plant month
s and
return
them to
68°F
(20°C)

6 TH La Thes Colle Plant They Th

3 YM mia e ct the nutlets areHa ey
E cea perf flowe at 68°F nd are
e; ect rs (20°C) picke Us
min flow once and d ual
t ers dried. allow ly
fam are up to 4 ba
ily crow weeks gg
ded for ed
on germin an
term ation to d
inal happen use
head d
s. to
ma
ke
rep
ell
ers

6 TRI Faba Thes Plant They The Sto

82
4 GO ceae; e the are y re
NE legu flow seeds Hand Self in
LL me ers in cut or poll a
A famil are place mech inat Co
FE y born where anical e. ol,
NU e the soil ly dry
GR singl temper harve an
EE e or ature sted. d
K in has dar
pairs reache k
in d 68°F pla
the (20°C), ce,
leaf then
axils allow
and about 2
are weeks
likel for
y germin
self- ation to
polli happen
nate
d.

6 FL Malv Thes The Germi By By

5 OW aceae e fruits nation Sprea Win
ERI ; flow are of the ding d
NG mall ers schiz seeds trap and
MA ow are ocarp happen under inse
PL famil perf s, s the ct
E y ect. with betwee trees poll
Flo anyw n 14 to to inat
wers here 28 collec ed
in from days at t the
F1 five 75°F seeds.
hybr to (24°C).
ids many
are meric
most arps,
ly each
steri with
le. two
to
nine
seeds.
Hand
pick
the
brow
n
seed

83
 heads

6 AC Ast Disk The Plant

6 HIL era flow fruits most
LE cea ers are species
A e; are shiny of the
sun perf achen plant
flo ect es. at 68°F
wer and Harve (20°C)
fam the st the in
ily ray spent light.
flow flowe Germi
ers rs nation
are befor will
pisti e they take 10
llate. shed to 2
The their weeks .
plant fruits. Germi
s are nation
cros is
s- irregul
polli ar and
nate may
d. take
many
months
.

6 MO Ran Thes The Germi ByI

7 NK unc e fruits nate at nsec
SH ula flow are 68°F t
OO cea ers follicl (20°C) poll
D e; are es, for 21 inat
butt perf which days, ed
erc ect. you move
up shoul to 20°F
fam d (–7°C)
ily harve for 35
st days ,
once then
brow move
n but to 50°F
befor (10°C).
e they Germi
shed nation
their someti
seeds mes
may
last a
year.

84
6 GI La The Harve Plant They By Sto
8 AN mia tiny st the the are Inse re
T cea flow spikes seeds Hand ct in
HY e; ers by where picke poll a
SS min are hand soil d inat co
OP t perf once temper ed ol
fam ect they atures an
ily and have reach d
are brow 68°F dry
arra ned (20°C), pla
nged and ce
on Waitfo
long r it to
spik Germi
es nate.

7 AG Ast Thes The Plant By Sto

0 ER era e fruit seeds Inse re
AT cea Flo is a in the ct in
UM e; wer five- light at poll co
sun head angle 75°F inat ol
flo s are d (24°C); ed pla
wer arra achen germin ce
fam nged e. ation suc
ily in a Harve takes h
cym st the about as
ose flowe 21 the
clust rs days ref
er. and/ rig
Indi or the era
vidu plants tor
ally once unt
they the il
are heads yo
perf are u'r
ect spent e
flow rea
ers. dy
to
pla
nt

7 AG Car Thes The Germi By

1 RS yop e are fruits nation Inse
TE hyll perf are happen ct
M ace ect dehis s at 55 poll
MA ae; flow cent to 65°F inat
pin ers capsu (13 to ed
k les 18°C);
fam contai allow

85
 ily ning about
many 21
black days
seeds. for
Colle comple
ct the te
capsu germin
les ation
befor
e they
shed
their
seeds

7 HO Mal Thes The Plant They The Sto

2 LL vac e are fruit seeds areHa See re
YH eae; perf is a in light nd ds in
OC mal ect schiz at 70°F picke are a
K low flow ocarp. (21°C); d Cro pa
fam ers Each germin ss per
ily fruit ation poll ba
has takes inat g
about about ed or
40 21 by oth
indehi days . inse er
scent, Germi cts sea
two- nate lab
celled seeds le
meric of A. co
arps. pallida nta
Colle and A. ine
ct rugosa rs
fruits at 41°F
when (5°C)
dry. over
several
months
.

7 AL Als Thes The Plant They It is Ke

3 ST troe e are fruit the areHa Inse epi
RO mer perf is a seeds nd ct- ng
EM iace ect three- at 41°F picke Poll it
ERI ae; flow celled (5°C). d inat in
A alst ers capsu Germi ed the
roe le. nation ref
mer Hand is rig
ia pick irregul era
fam the ar and tor
ily capsu unpred for

86
 les ictable fou
once and r
they may we
are take eks
brow several ,w
n and months hil
dry . e
mo
ist
is
the
bes
t
wa
y
of
Sto
rag
e

7 AL Bra Thes The Plant They See Sto

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SU ace perf are of most Hans are by
M ae; ect silicle perenni picke Inse pla
FL mu flow s that al d ct cin
OW star ers are species poll g
ER d dehis at inat the
HE fam cent 68°F ed see
AD ily or (20°C). d
S indehi If in
scent, seeds a
depen of A. pa
ding cuneifo per
upon lium ba
specie does g
s. not
Hand germin
pick ate in
the within
flowe a
r month,
heads stratify
once the
they plant
are for a
brow month
n and and
have return
begun to 68°F
to (20°C).

87
 dry. Plant
seeds
of
annual
species
in light
at the
same
temper
ature.

7 Am Am The The Germi You By Sto

5 ara ara subtl fruit nation Rub Self re
nth nth e is a of the and poll in
ace flow utricl seed catch inati a
ae; ers e happen in a ng foo
am are (singl s bucke d
ara impe e- within t gra
nth rfect seede 10 to de
fam . d 14 co
ily fruit). days at nta
Colle 75°F ine
ct the (24°C) r
spent in in
flowe light. a
r dry
heads pla
befor ce
e they
shatte
r

7 EV Ast Thes The Plant They By

6 ER era e are fruits seeds are Inse
LA cea perf are of A. Hand- ct-
STI e; ect four- alatum picke Poll
NG sun flow angle at 60°F d inat
flo ers d (16°C) ed
wer achen and
fam es. seeds
ily Colle of A.
ct the grandif
dead lora at
flowe 70°F
rs (21°C).
Germi
nation
happen
s
within

88
 14
days

7 AN Bor Thes Fruits Germi By

7 CH agi e are nation Inse
US nac are comp happen ct-
A eae; perf osed s for 7 Poll
Bug bor ect of to 28 inati
loss age flow four days in on
fam ers rough light at
ily nutlet 70°F
s. (21°C).
Colle Germi
ct the nation
fruits can be
once pattern
the less
flowe and
r very
heads slow.
are
dry.

7 AN Ran The The Germi They See Sto

8 EM unc y are fruits nation areHa ds re
ON ula most are of the nd are in
E cea ly achen seeds picke Inse ba
e; solit es. of most d ct gs
butt ary Harve of this poll an
erc flow st the species inat d
up ers dead is at ed in
fam that flowe 68°F a
ily are r (20°C). co
perf heads ol,
ect once dry
they pla
dry ce
and
are
brow
n.

7 SN Scr The The Germi They It is Pla

9 AP oph y seed nation are Self ce
DR ular are capsu happen Hand - in
AG ia born les s to picke poll a
ON e in ripen the d inat ba
race from seeds ed g
mes the within an
and base 7 to 14 d

89
 are of the days in ke
perf inflor light at ep
ect escen 65°F the
flow ce (18°C). m
ers upwar in
and d. a
self Hand co
polli pick ol
nate the an
d. pods d
when dry
about pla
a ce
major
ity of
them
are
brow
n and
dry.

8 AQ Ran Thes The Germi You It is Be

0 UIL unc e are fruit nation put a Inse st
EGI ula perf is a of bag ct- Sto
A cea ect many most of over Poll red
CO e; flow - this the inat in
LU butt ers seede species head ed a
MB erc d happen and pa
INE up follicl s for cut per
fam e. 21 to the en
ily Harve 28 stem vel
st the days in op
heads light at e
once 70°F an
they (21°C). d
are lab
some el
what acc
but ord
not ing
fully ly
dry,
as
they
will
shatte
r at a
later
stage.

90
8 AF Ast The The Germi They It is Sto
1 RiC era disk fruits nation are Self re
AN cea are are happen Hand- - in
DA e; perf three- s for a picke poll a
ISY sun ect to period d inat co
flo flow five- of 3 to ed ol,
wer ers winge 5 dar
fam and d weeks k
ily the achen at 60 to pla
ray es. 70°F ce
flow Harve (16 to
ers st 21°C)
are when
pisti flowe
llate rs are
pale

8 AS Asc Thes You Germi They It’s Sto

2 CL lepi e are start nationo are Inse re
EPI ada perf to f this Hand ct by
AS cea ect collec seeds collec poll ke
e; flow t the happen ted inat epi
mil ers follicl s at ed ng
kw and es as about in
eed they they 70°F a
fam are get (21°C). lat
ily most ripe Germi h
ly and nation ho
polli begin is use
nate to general dur
d by split. ly slow ing
butte in the wi
rflie milkwe nte
s eds and r
can
take
from
14
days to
several
months
. This
require
s
patienc
e

8 AS Ast The The Seeds By It’s Sto

3 TE era disk fruits of this Stalk Inse re
R cea have are species harve ct in

91
 e; perf achen experie sting, poll an
sun ect es. nce seed inat airt
flo flow You germin head ed igh
wer ers Hand ation crumb t
fam and pick at ling co
ily the the 68°F nta
ray seed (20°C) ine
flow heads r
ers once in
eithe they a
r are co
pisti brow ol,
llate n and dry
or dry an
neut but d
ral. befor in
e they a
shatte pla
r. ce
wit
h
no
lig
ht

8 BA Fab Thes The Plant They It’s Sto

4 PTI ace e are fruit seeds are Self re
SIA ae; perf is at 68°F Hand poll in
Fals leg ect little (20°C) collec inat a
e um flow , , ted ed co
indi e ers puffy germin ol,
go fam legum ation dry
ily e takes an
(pod). up to d
Harve 14 to in
st the 28 a
pods days pla
once ce
they wit
are h
brow no
n and lig
dry. ht

8 BE Beg Thes The Surfac They It’s Yo

5 GO oni e are fruit e-plant are Inse u
NI ace impe is a at 75°F Hand ct Put
A ae; rfect dehis (24°C) collec poll in
beg flow cent in ted inat a
oni ers capsu light. and ed zip

92
 a on le Allow cut loc
fam mon up to off ba
ily oeci 14 to the g
ous 30 flowe an
plant days r d
s. for sto
The germin re
y ation to in
can take a
be place co
singl ol
e or an
doub d
le dry
and pla
shad ce
es of
whit
e to
red.

8 Eng Ast This The Germi You It’s By

6 lish era disk fruit nation cut to inse Sto
dais cea flow is an takes dry ct rin
y e; ers achen up to compl poll g
sun are e. 10 to etely, inat in
flo perf You 14 and ed a
wer ect, collec days in shake co
fam the t the dayligh the ol
ily ray seed t at stem an
flow heads 75°F so the d
ers by (24°C), capsul dry
pisti hand with e pla
llate as 65°F ejects ce
they (18°C) the
grow at seeds
night. in the
bag.

8 BE Sax Thes The Surfac They It’s Sto

7 RG ifra e are fruits e-plant are Inse re
ENI gac perf are all Hand ct by
A eae; ect capsu seeds pick poll Ke
saxi flow les. at 75°F the inat pin
frag ers You (24°C), seeds ed g
e harve in light in
fam st for a
ily them germin Dr
by ation to y
handp happen pla

93
 icking ce
once an
they d
are at
brow roo
n and m
dry te
mp
era
tur
e

8 CA Scr Thes This Surfac You It’s Sto

8 LC oph e are is a e-plant Hand Inse re
EO ular perf capsu in light pick ct in
LA iace ect le at 65 to capsul poll a
RI ae; flow fruit 75°F es inat airt
A fig ers (18 to once ed igh
Slip wor 24°C). they t
per t Germi are co
flo fam nation dry. nta
wer ily Takes ine
up to r
14 to in
21 the
days. fri
Bottom dg
-water e
only,
so as
not to
disturb
the tiny
seeds.

89 CAL Aste The The Ger They Cros Store

END racea disk fruits mina are s- in a
ULA e; is a are tion Han polli bag
sunfl perfe ache takes d natio then
ower ct nes. up to pick n by put it
famil flow The 14 to ed insec in a
y er seed 21 ts. refri
and head days gerat
the s in or
ray shatt the
flow er dark
ers expl at
pistil osive 68°F

94
 late ly, (20°
so C).
harv
est
the
seed
s
whe
n
they
are
sligh
tly
imm
ature

90 Chin Aste As The Ger By It’s Stor

a racea with fruits mina Flow Insec e in
aster e; other are tion er t a
sunfl mem ache takes head polli airtig
ower bers nes. up to cutti nate ht
famil of Harv 14 to ng, d cont
y this est 21 seed ainer
famil the days head and
y, seed at crum place
Chin s 75°F bling in a
a once (24° Cool
aster the C). , dry
flow papp Bott and
er us om- in a
head (fuzz wate place
s ) r with
cont begi only no
ain ns to light
both sprin
ray g.
and
disk
flow
ers.
At
time
s the
ray
flow
ers
subst
itute
the
disk

95
 flow
ers

91 CA Cam The Fruit Ger Cutti They Store

MP panu flow is a mina ng are in
AN lacea ers dehis tion off cross the
ULA e; are cent takes seed - refri
Bellf bellfl boun caps up to caps polli gerat
lowe ower d in ule. 14 to ules nate or
r famil loose 21 and d with
y pani days placi by a
cles in ng insec pape
light them ts. r bag
at in a
75°F pape
(24° r bag
C)
for
most
of
the
speci
es.

92 Sedg Cype Thes The Seed Softl It’s By

e racea e fruits s of y Win stori
e; are are C. shak d ng in
sedg impe ache flava e the polli a
e rfect nes. and seed nate refri
famil flow Harv C. head d gerat
y ers, est umbr s or
and the osa into with
plant spike will a an
s s germ pape airtig
may once inate r bag ht
be they at cont
mon are 41°F ainer
oeci brow (5°C
ous n ).
or and Thos
dioe dry e of
cious but C.
befor alba,
e C.
fruit- com
shed. ans,
Only C.
pistil grayi
late , C.
flow nigra

96
 ers , C.
will ripar
bear ia,
fruit. and
C.
testa
cea
shou
ld be
sown
and
held
at
68°F
(20°
C)
for a
mont
h,
strati
fied
for a
mont
h,
then
mov
ed to
50°F
(10°
C)
for
germ
inati
on

93 Peri Apo Thes The Plant You It’s By

wink cyna e are fruit the Han Insec stori
le ceae; perfe is seed d t ng in
dogb ct narro s,bin pick polli a
ane flow wly d the nate Pape
famil ers shap them follic d r
y ed for 3 les enve
with days lope
a at or
cylin 80°F glass
drica (27° jar
l C) in that
follic the is
le dark, not
with then tightl

97
 15 to redu y
abou ce seale
t 30 the d
seed temp
s. eratu
re to
75°F
(24°
C).
Ger
mina
tion
will
take
up to
14 to
21
days.

94 CEL Ama Thes Harv Ger Brus It’s By

OSI ranth e are est mina h Win Stori
A acea perfe the tion the d ng in
Cock e; ct flow of seed polli a
scom amar and er the s nate glass
b anth flow head bien away d jar
famil ers s nial from or
y and once seed the pape
are they happ flow r
tiny , are ens ers enve
and dead at lope
multi . 68°F and
color (20° place
ed. C) d in
and a
the cool
other and
speci dry
es at place
75°F
(24°
C)
for 7
to 14
days.

95 CEN Aste Thes The Ger They They Store

TAU racea e fruits mina are cross by
REA e; flow are tion Han - kepi
Bach sunfl ers ache happ d polli ng
elor's ower are nes. ens pick nate in a

98
 butto famil form Harv in ed d by cool
n y ed in est dark insec and
head the ness ts. dry
s plant for 7 place
rangi s to 28 .
ng once days
from most at
1 to have 75°F
4- Stop (24°
inch ped C)
es in grow
diam ing
eter.

96 Mou Cary Thes Harv Surf They Eithe

se- ophy e est ace- are r by
ear llace are the plant Han Self-
chic ae; perfe caps seed d polli
kwee pink ct ules s of pick natio
d famil flow by most ed n
y ers hand speci and/
once es at or
they 68°F insec
are (20° t
brow C) in poin
n but light ated
befor and
e allo
they w up
split. to a
mont
h for
germ
inati
on to
occu
r

97 Hon Bora Thes The Ger They It’s

eyw gina e fruits mina are Insec
ort ceae; are are tion hand t
bora perfe with happ pick poin
ge ct out ens ed ated
famil flow nuts at 60
y ers to
65°F
(16
to
18°C
) for

99
 14
days.

98 Pinc Aste The The Plant You It’s

ushi racea insec fruit at brus Insec
on e; t- is an 39°F h t
Flow sunfl polli ache (4°C the polli
er ower nate ne. ) for seed nate
famil d Harv 30 to s d
y flow est 70 into
ers the days a
are flow for buck
tubul er germ et
ar head inati
and s on to
indiv once happ
idual they en
, or are
cory brow
mbo n
se.

99 Dwa Scro Thes The Plant You It’s Stora

rf phul e are fruits seed hand self ge is
snap ariac perfe are s of pick polli best
drag eae; ct dehis the them nate done
on figw flow cent pere once d by
ort ers caps nnial they keep
famil ules speci are ing
y es at brow the
68°F n but seed
(20° befor s in
F). e a
they pape
split r bag
or
pack
et.
Stori
ng
them
in
plast
ic
can
caus
e
mold
.
Keep

100
 the
seed
s in a
cool
and
uder
no
light
.

100 Wall Bras Thes Fruit Ger They By Store

flow sicac e are is a mina are Self in a
er eae; perfe tall tion hand polli airtig
must ct siliq takes pick natio ht
ard flow ue. abou ed n cont
famil ers Coll t 14 ainer
y ect days in a
the at cool
fruit 70°F ace
once (21°
it C).
turns
red
yello
w-
brow
n

101 Corn Aste The The Ger They By Store

mari racea disk fruits mina are Insec seed
gold e; have are tion Han t s in a
sunfl perfe ache takes d polli cool
ower ct nes. up to pick natio and
famil flow Harv 14 to ed n dry
y ers est 35 place
and, the days
the plant at
ray s 65°F
flow once (18°
ers the C)
pistil flow for
late er most
head speci
s are es of
fully this
grow seed.
n.

102 CLA Ona The Harv Ger They By Store

RKI grac inflo est mina are Insec seed

101
 A eae; resce the tion hand t s in
even nce plant takes pick polli a
ing is a s place ed natio cool,
prim leafy once betw n dry
rose spike the een place
famil or a lowe 7 to
y race r 14
me. caps days
Thes ules at
e are open 70°F
perfe up. (21°
ct C).
flow
ers

Photo Gallery
1.0 Arugula*

Source

1.1 Asparagus

Source

1.2 Cabbage

102
Source

1.3 Carrot

Source

1.4 Chervil salad*

Source

1.5 Chickpea

Source

1.6 Chicory

103
Source

1.7 Collards

Source

1.8 Corn

Source

1.9 Cucumber

Source

2.0 Eggplant*

104
Source

2.1 Fennel

Source

2.2 Kale*

Source

2.3 Kohlrabi*

Source

2.4 Lentil

Source

2.5 Melon*

105
Source

2.6 Mustard

Source

2.7 New Zealand Spinach*

Source

2.8 Pea

Source

2.9 Peanut

106
Source

3.0 Pepper
Source

3.1 Radish*

Source

3.2 Rhubarb*

Source

3.3 Spinach*

Source

3.4 Squash*

107
Source

3.5 Tomatillo*

Source

3.6 Tomato*

Source

3.7 Turnip*

Source

3.8 Unicorn plant*

Source

3.9 Watermelon

Source

4.0 Agastache*

Source

4.1 Borago

108
Source

4.2 Allium

Source

4.3 Chenopodium*

Source

4.4 Chrysanthemum*

Source

4.5 Coriandrum

109
Source

4.6 CRITHMUM

Source

4.7 CUMIN

Source

4.7 ELETTARIA

Source

4.8 FERULA

Source

110
4.9 FENNEL

Source

5.1 LOVAGE*

Source

5.2 B vegetables BEAN*

5.3 BEAN, FAVA (FABA)*

Source

5.4 BEAN, LIMA*

Source

5.5 BEET*

Source

5.6 BROCCOLI

111
Source

5.7 CAULIFLOWER*

Source

5.8 ORIGANUM*

Source

5.9 NEPETA*

Source

6.0 MYRRH*

Source

6.1 MENTHA*

Source

112
6.2 BASIL

Source

6.3 ORIGANUM*

Source

6.4 PARSLEY

Source

6.5 PIMPINELLA ANISE*

Source

6.6 POTERIUM*

Source

6.7 RUTA*

113
Source

6.8 SALVIA*

Source

6.9 SATUREJA*

Source

7.0 TANSY*

Source

7.1 THYME*

Source

7.2 TRIGONELLA FENUGREEK*

114
Source

7.3 FLOWERING MAPLE*

Source

7.4 ACHILLEA*

Source

7.5 MONSKSHOOD*

Source

7.6 GIANT HYSSOP*

Source

7.7 AGERATUM*

115
Source

7.8 AGRSTEMMA*

Source

7.9 HOLLYHOCK*

Source

8.0 ALSTROEMERIA*

Source

8.1 ALYSSUM FLOWER HEADS*

Source

116
8.2 Amaranth*

Source

8.3 EVERLASTING*

Source

8.4 ANCHUSA Bugloss*

Source

8.5 ANEMONE*

Source

8.6 SNAPDRAGON*

Source

8.7 AQUILEGIA COLUMBINE*

117
Source

8.8 AFRICAN DAISY*

Source

8.9 ASCLEPIAS*

Source

9.0 ASTER*

Source

9.1 BAPTISIA False indigo*

Source

9.2 BEGONIA*

Source

9.3 English daisy*

Source

9.4 BERGENIA*

118
Source

9.5 CALCEOLARIA Slipper flower*

Source

9.6 CALENDULA*

Source

9.7 China aster*

Source

9.8 CAMPANULA Bellflower*

Source

9.9 Sedge*

Source

10.0 Periwinkle*

119
Source

10.1 CELOSIA Cockscomb*

Source

10.2 CENTAUREA Bachelor's button*

Source

10.3 Mouse-ear chickweed*

Source

10.4 Honeywort*

Source

10.5 Pincushion Flower*

Source

10.6 Dwarf snapdragon*

Source

120
10.7 Wallflower*

Source

10.8 Corn marigold*

Source

10.9 CLARKIA*

Source

121