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Heater didn't come on

Posted by Will Cover on 12/28/22 at 7:47 pm

Not needed right now, but during the winter freeze

last a few days, my back unit heater would not
come on.

A/C works without any issues, but the heater

failed. The 2.5-ton unit (Rheem) is approximately
14.5 years old.

- Filter is clean
- Gas furnace
- Never had an issue with the thermostat before
(Honeywell RTH9580WF)

Pilot light out? I ask because I haven't checked - it

was too cold to go up in the attic (at the time) and
I used my main unit to keep me warm, along with
the fireplace and a portable space heater.

Should this be the first thing I check tomorrow? Or

should I look elsewhere?

This post was edited on 12/28 at 7:48 pm

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Posted by CrawDude on 12/28/22 at 8:26 pm to Will Cover

A residential HVAC gas furnace won’t have a pilot

light (unless it is ancient) but rather an electronic
igniter. You know it’s not a issue the furnace
blower motor b/c the AC is working.

There are several + safety components of the a

residential gas furnace and an electronic gas
valve that can prevent it from working. If you have
1/2 hr this is a good video on the component parts
of a gas furnace and trouble shooting them with a
multimeter. LINK

Best to have a HVAC tech diagnosis and fix the

issue.

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Posted by mchias1 on 12/28/22 at 8:47 pm to Will Cover

My gas furnace went on Friday night. Called a

HVAC tech Saturday morning and he helped me
troubleshoot a few things before he came out.

1) check the pressure switch. Near the blower

should be a switch that checks to see if your
system is pulling a vacuum. You should hear a
click. You can pull the hose from the fan and suck
in it. The switch should click if you want to test
yourself.

2) if the pressure switch works, the next is to

check the igniter. It'll start glowing before gas is
turned on.

Both of those were working for me.

Ended up being my gas valve was bad. No way to

test this other than check to see if your circuit
board is sending it voltage to turn on. If there's
voltage, will be AC voltage, it's probably the valve
is bad.

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Posted by keakar on 12/29/22 at 12:05 am to CrawDude

quote:

Best to have a HVAC tech diagnosis and

fix the issue.

this ^^^^^^

unless you know what you are doing

if you do know what you are doing

go in attic and remove a cover if need be so you

can watch and see the heating element get hot
and glow.

now have wife turn the heater on.

you should hear the relays click to start the

glowing ignitor to light it.

if the unit senses the heat from it, it turns the gas
on. much the same way the old thermocouples
worked.

if heating element is bad, and nothing gets hot,

then the unit does nothing.

now if you can confirm the ignitor isnt working,

see if it has a visible crack, because thats most
often how they fail.

if you sure the ignitor is bad, get the brand and

model number off the info sticker on the inside of
the unit

the sticker is found where the gas valve is at, on

the inside on one side or the other, under that
louvered grill cover that lets fresh air in for the
burners.

now just google search for the part number for it,
and then go buy it from ebay or amazon

if there is no sign the ignitor cracked, then it might

be an induction motor issue, or something else
like a circuit board issue

so just call a service guy out to see whats going

on
This post was edited on 12/29 at 12:19 am

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Posted by LEASTBAY on 12/29/22 at 12:21 am to Will Cover

Mine has a series of flashing lights that provides a

code. I would look into that first.

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Posted by covlatiger on 12/29/22 at 8:21 am to Will Cover

Had a similar problem. Recent power outage

messed up the control board. Tech said voltage
into it was ok, but voltage coming out was low.
Had to replace it.

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Posted by CrawDude on 12/29/22 at 8:34 am to covlatiger

quote:

Had a similar problem. Recent power

outage messed up the control board. Tech
said voltage into it was ok, but voltage
coming out was low. Had to replace it.

That’s a good reminder that a surge protector can

help protect HVAC control/circuit boards from
voltage spikes on both the outdoor condensing
unit and the indoor furnace or air handler.

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Posted by djangochained on 12/29/22 at 9:05 am to Will

Cover

make sure vent is clear

flame sensor

Reply Options Top 1 0

Posted by keakar on 12/29/22 at 11:44 am to Will Cover

quote:

Heater didn't come on

to add to what i said above, also think if you

recently had the roof shingles replaced

i mention this because i had one that the guy had

a roof repaired and some idiot dropped scraps of
shingles down the vent pipe and they stopped the
induction motor wheel from turning and burned it
up causing heater not to work. when i took the
induction motor out, i pulled 3 or 4 handfuls of
broken shingle scraps inside there

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Posted by Napoleon on 12/30/22 at 7:24 am to CrawDude

Yeah. If you don't have a basic concept of the

furnace is best to call a pro.

A modern furnace has two fans, multiple bi metal

thermostats, an electric control and a pressure
switch.
It's really hard to tell someone where to start.

If you have a pilot light and it won't stay lit, this is

an easy fix; you need a thermocouple.

Though most have electric ignition? Is the ceramic

glowing? Is the burner fan coming on first? Does
the blower fan come on? Is the control board
flashing a sequence?

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