Textile Raw Materials-II

TXE 201
Credit – 3

1
MD. TANVIR HOSSAIN
Lecturer ,BUBT
M.Sc in Textile Engg.(On going,
DUET)
2
Introduction of Man-made Fiber
The word “textile” comes from the Latin word “textilis” and the
Frence “texere”, which means, in general and broad sense,
woven fabrics. Technically, the term “fiber” or “textile fiber”
means a unit of matter, which is capable of being spun into a tarn
or made into a fabric of any nature or character.
However, fibers as distinct from yarns or fabric have one
common feature, that is the length is enormously greater than
the diameter.
According to Textile Institute, fibers are defined as the units of
matter characterized by fineness, flexibility and a high ratio of
length to thickness.
3
Textile Fibers

Textile Fibers as those which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric
by interlacing, or interlooping in a variety of machines including weaving,
knitting, braiding, felting, and bonding etc.
Fiber to be suitable for textile purposes, certain qualities are desirable, such as:
❖ Length is thousand times greater than its diameter.
❖ Should have spinning quality.
❖ Sufficient strength.
❖ Elasticity and flexibility.
❖ Fineness.
❖ Dyeability etc.

4
Types of Fiber
Fiber
Natural Fiber Man-made fiber
Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Semi Synthetic Inorganic
fiber fiber fiber fiber synthetic fiber fiber
fiber
Cotton Silk Asbestos Viscose Cellulose Nylon Glass
acetate
Flax Wool Rayon Cellulose Polyester Rock wool
triacetate
Ramie Modal Acrylic Carbon
Hemp Polynosic Modacrylic Metal
Jute Cupra Spandex Ceramic
Kapok Lyocell Polyolefin
Sisal Aramid 5
 Man-made Fiber
The term man-made or manufactured fiber means any fiber derived by a
process of manufacture from any (fiber forming) substance which, at any
point in the manufacturing process, is not a fiber.
The man-made fibers can be classified into four groups:

(a) Regenerated fibers - The fibers regenerated from natural cellulose

sources like wood pulp or cotton linters are referred to as regenerated
fibers. By the regeneration process, the chemical constitution of the
original polymers is not altered. However, a certain variation in degree of
polymerization occurs resulting in some modified physical properties of
the regenerated fibers that essentially differ from the original one. Viscose
rayon, polynosic, cupro, lyocell etc. belong to this category.
6
 Man-made Fiber
(b) Semi synthetic fibers: Semi synthetic fibers are cellulosic, i.e. they are formed from
natural polymeric materials such as wood pulp, cotton linters etc. Cellulose acetate and
triacetate belong to this group. The production of such fibers involves the acetic oxidation
of cellulose, which turns it into acetic acid cellulose. This is dissolved in a solvent and spun
into fibers.

(c) Synthetic fibers: True synthetic fibers are non-cellulosic. Examples are polyamide
(nylon). polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, polyurethane (spandex), polyolefin (polyethylene,
polypropylene) Polyvinyl derivatives (Polyacrylonitrile, Polyvinyl chloride, Polyvinylidene
chloride, Polyvinylidene dinitrile, Polyvinyl alcohol, Polystyrene) etc. True synthetic fibers
are produces by polymerization of smaller chemical units into long-chain molecular
polymers. Fibers are formed by forcing a viscous fluid or solution of the polymer through
the small orifices of a spinneret and immediately solidifying or precipitating the resulting
filaments.
7
 Man-made Fiber
(d) Inorganic fibers: Inorganic fibers, both metal and non-metal ones,
are more rigid, have a higher melting point and are more heat resistant
than traditional fibers.

Their textile importance is also limited, whereas they are widely used as
reinforcement in composite materials. They are usually excellent in high
temperatures and in a corrosive surrounding

Among the inorganic fibers, glass fiber and rock wool came into
comparatively early and still love good demand and production. The
production and usage of the other inorganic fibers like carbons, ceramic
and metal fibers are on the other hand, relatively limited.
8
Depending on the form, fiber also has some
subdivisions
I. Fibril: A fibril is a very small cell or fiber, a long cell or fiber of very small diameter or a
component of a cell wall. Not to be confused with fiber or filament, fibril tend to have
diameters ranging from 10-100 nanometers. The length of a fiber is conveniently measurable
in inches, whereas a fibril is measured in microns or nanometers.

Hierarchical structure of hair in the cortex and cuticle, highlighting the

scale which defines fibrils
9
Depending on the form, fiber also has some subdivisions
II. Staple fibers: They are also called staple. Short lengths of fiber, which have been
chopped from continuous filament in lengths of approximately 15-500 mm. Staple
fiber must be further processed (spun) into yarn before it can be woven into fabrics
Nylon and polyester are examples of synthetic fibers available in staple form.

III. Continuous filaments: A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous),

extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production process. The length of a
filament is conveniently measured in yards or meters. There may be mono or multi
filaments.

IV. Flock fibers: Flock fibers are very short in length (<15 mm) and therefore, are not
spinnable.

10
 Yarn or thread
A yarn is a generic term used for a continuous strand of textile fibers that may be composed of
endless filaments or shorter fibers twisted or otherwise held together, utilized in making textile
fabrics.
Yarn types are as follows:

I. Spun yarn: Yarn consisting of fiber of regular or irregular staple length usually bound together
by twist.

II. Filament yarn: A yam of an indefinite or extreme length such as found naturally in silk.
Manufactured fibers are extruded into filaments that are converted into filament yarn, staple or
two.

III. Textured filament yarn: A yarn that has been geometrically altered to impart bulk, increase
moisture absorption, add resiliency, etc.

IV. Monofilament: Single filament with or without twist

11
History of Man-made Fiber
Fiber Manufacturing Year
Rayon 1910
Acetate 1924
Nylon 1939
Modacrylic 1949
Olefin 1949
Acrylic 1950
Polyester 1953
Carbon 1968
Spandex 1959
Aramids 1961
Lyocell 1992
Modal 1960
12
Composition of MMF
Type Name of fiber Source or composition
Rayon Cotton linters or wood
Cellulose Acetate Cotton linters or wood
Triacetate Cotton linters or wood
Nylon Aliphatic polyamide
Aramid Aromatic polyamide
Polyester Dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid
Acrylic Acrylonitrile (at least 85%)
Modacrylic Acrylonitrile (35-84%)
Spandex Polyurethane
Non-cellulosic
Olifin Ethylene or propylene (at least 85%)
polymers
Vinyon Vinyl chloride (at least 85%)
Alginate Calcium alginate
Fluorocarbon tetrafluoroethylene
Anidex Monohydric alcohol and acrylic acid
Lastrile Acrylonitrile (10-50%)
Vinal Vinyl alcohol (at least 50%)
Protein Azlon Corn, soybean, etc.
Rubber Rubber Natural or svnthetic rubber
Metallic Aluminium, silver, gold, stainless steel
Glass Silica sand. limestone, other minerals
Mineral Ceramic Alumina, silica
Graphite Carbon 13
Generic coding system of common MMF
Alphabetic order of fiber names
Acetate CA Melamine MF
Acrylic PAN Metal MTF
Alginate ALG Modacrylic MAC
Aramid AR Modal CMD
Carbon CF Polyamide PA
Ceramic CEF Polyester PES
Chlorofiber CLF Polyethylene PE
Cupro CUP Polyimide PI
Elastane EL Polylactide PLA
Elastodiene ED Polypropylene PP
Elastomultiester EME Triacetate CTA
Fluorofiber PTFE Viscose CV
Glass GF Vinyl PVAL
Iyocell CLY 14
 Difference Between Natural & MMF
Natural Fiber Man-made Fiber
The fibers which we get from nature are Manmade fibers are those which
called natural fiber are made by synthetic polymer or
regeneration system
No. of molecules is not limited No. of molecules are limited
The fabric made from natural fiber is Man-made fibers are
comfortable and good for health uncomfortable and not good for
health
It is exensive. Not exensive.
It cannot grow everywhere, for production we For production is not dependence
have to de end on nature on nature
Hygienic Not hygienic
Not as strong and durable like synthetic fiber Strong and durable
15
 Advantages of Man-made fiber
Manufacturing and Marketing advantages
More regular properties than natural fibers
(fineness, strength etc.)
Fibers parameters can be controlled as
required (e.g. X-section, surface property,
luster etc.)
Availability of raw materials.
High labor productivity.
Independence of production from climatic
conditions (flood, rain, draught etc.)
Advanced in performance and use
Natural appearance (dull, silky or
textured etc.)
Easy care characteristics (wash and
water)
Higher strength.
Chemical and biological resistance.
High fashion appearance – styling
and coloring.
Multifunctional end use.
16
Disadvantages of manmade fiber

Hydrophobic
Low air transparency
Static electricity formed
Formation of pilling by
abrasion
High luster.

17
World MMF Production

Source: Textile Exchange Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021
18
 19
Source: Textile-Exchange Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2021
Sequence of Manmade fiber production
I. Manufacture of fiber forming polymer.

II. Spinning (fiber is made from polymer)

III. Drawing/stretching.

IV. Texturing/crimping

V. Interlacing/intermingling.

VI. Heat setting

20
Manufacture of fiber forming polymer
All man-made fibers are composed of long chain molecules known as polymer which are
formed by chemical processing. This process is called polymerization.

The term polymerization defines the process of macromolecules formation through

repetition of basic units: it of course applies only to synthesis fibers.

In general, polymerization reactions are activated and controlled during the process by
various parameters, as temperature, pressure, catalyzers, and reaction stabilizers.

The number of repetitive units is termed degree of polymerization and is a parameter of

great significance for fiber properties setting.

21
 Types of polymerization

Addition or Step-growth or
Copolymerization
Chain-reaction Condensation

Free radical Catanionic Anionic

22
Addition/Chain-reaction Polymerization
Addition/ Chain-reaction polymerization, an important industrial method of polymer preparation,
involves the addition of unsaturated molecules to a rapidly growing chain.
The most common unsaturated compounds that undergo chain-reaction polymerization are olefins, as
exemplified by the following reaction of a generalized vinyl monomer.

The growing polymer in chain-reaction polymerization is a free radical, and polymerization

proceeds via chain mechanism.

Chain-reaction polymerization is induced by the addition of free-radical-forming reagents or by

ionic initiators.

Like all chain reactions, it involves three fundamental steps: initiation, propagation, and
termination. In addition, a fourth step called chain transfer may be involved.

23
Some Representation of Addition
Polymers

24
Free Radical Polymerization
Two bonds between the two carbons ruptures.

Two free radicals meet, they can form a dimer

with a new covalent bond linking the two.

25
Step Growth/ Condensation Polymerization
Step-growth polymerization involves a series of reactions in which any two species (monomers,
dimers, trimers, etc.) can react at any time, leading to a larger molecule.

Monomers having certain functional groups such as –OH, -COOH, -NH2 etc. Show the tendency to
undergo polymerization by the elimination of one molecule of a simple by product as H2O, HCl, salt,
alcohol etc.
Many naturally and synthetic polymers are produced by step-growth polymerization including
polyesters, polyurethanes, and polyamides.
A typical step-growth polymerization of the condensation type is the formation of a polyester through
the reaction of a glycol and a dicarboxylic acid.

Where R and R′ are the unreactive part of the molecules.

26
Forms of fiber forming polymer
Whichever polymerization method is applied, the reaction products (polymers)
can appear as follows:

❖ In form of a solution to be conveyed to the spinning department;

❖ In form of a melted polymer to be conveyed directly to the spinning

department or to be transformed into grains (chips) for subsequent use ;

❖ In form of a suspension, from which the polymer is separated and conveyed

to the spinning department;

27
 Addition of additives
I. Bright fiber: a fiber without or with minimal quantities of titanium dioxide;

II. Semi-bright fiber: a slightly de lustered fiber

III. Semi-dull fiber: usually terms de lustered fibers with 0,25-0.5% titanium

dioxide contents

IV. Dull fiber: fiber with 0,5-1% titanium dioxide

V. Super dull fiber: fiber with 1-3% titanium dioxide

28
 DP and MW of common Synthetic fibers

Fiber Degree of Average molecular weight

polymerization
Viscose (CV) 250-700
Cupro (CUP) 500-600 40,000-100,000
Acetate (CA) 220-300
Nylon (PA) (6 and 6.6) 100-180 15,000-30,000
Polyester (PES) 130-220 17,000-20,000 (textile fiber)
28,000-40,000 (HT fiber)
Acrylic (PAN) 1000-2000 30,000-70,000
Chlorofiber (CLF) 1300-1800
Polypropylene (PP) 200,000-350,000
Elastane (EL) 50,000- 100,000

29
 Spinning
The conversion of polymers into fibers is called spinning. The term spinning defines the extr
process through bored devices (spinnerets) of fluid polymer masses which are able to solidif
continuous flow. The spinning process is sometimes designated as "chemical or primary spin
to distinguish it from the "textile or mechanical or secondary spinning".
The polymer processing from the solid to the fluid state can take place with two methods:
l . By melting: this method can be applied on thermoplastic polymers which show stable performances at the pro
temperatures (this method is used by 70% of the fibers)
2. By solution: the polymer is solved in variable concentrations according to the kind of polymer and of solvent, a
such as to produce a sufficiently viscous liquid (dope) (this method is used by 30% of the fibers)

30
Types of Spinning
❖ Melt spinning

❖ Dry spinning

❖ Wet spinning

31
 Spinneret
A metal disc containing numerous minute holes used in
manufactured fiber extrusion. The spinning solution or
melted polymer is forced through the holes to form the
fiber filaments. This is the most important part of spinning
machine. The number of holes of spinneret, their sizes
and shapes vary with the filament desired. The holes are
drilled through the metal plates usually of corrosion
resistant and made of stainless steel, nickel alloy,
platinum, iridium or gold to withstand high pressure.

32
 Specification of spinneret
Spinneret length 10-25 mm

Spinneret dia 30-200 mm

Spinneret thickness 3-4 mm

Spinneret hole dia D = 0.1-0.5 mm

Spinneret hole depth 0.2 x2D

Hole shape of Spinneret: Round, Cross-angle, Triangle, Star, Oval etc.

33
Features of spinneret
Spinneret holes are slightly wider at the entry than the exit.

After long use the spinnerets get chocked and it is essential to clean them.

Due to pressure the spinneret holes may be broken, clogged or spotted.

The denier of filament extruded through a hole does not depend upon its size

only, but it has some significance on the efficient extrusion depending on

melt delivery speed.

34
Fibre Extrusion and Drawing

Extrusion at around 1000 m/min does not

greatly orientate the polymer molecules in
the direction of the fibre axis and the
crystallinity of the fibres is also low.

The objective of the drawing process is to

yield a yarn with acceptable fibre
properties. The yarn is wound off the
package from extrusion and passes around
a set of feed rollers.

35
 Fibre Extrusion and Drawing
❖ Low-oriented yarns (LOY) = less than 1800 m/min

❖ Medium oriented yarns (MOY) = 1800–2500 m/min

❖ Partially oriented yarns (POY) = 3000–4000 m/min

❖ Highly oriented yarns (HOY) = 4000–6000 m/min

❖ Fully oriented (FOY) = 6000 m/min

❖ LOY = High residual draw factor, low crystallinity and a limited shelf-life
❖ MOY = Slightly more crystalline but still have a limited shelf-life
❖ POY = They require some residual drawing and still have a low
crystallinity
❖ HOY = Are not fully drawn and have an elongation of 50–60 %
❖ FOY = Nylon yarns are fully oriented and have an elongation of 20–30 %

36
 Melt Spinning
The process in which the fiber-forming substance is melted and extruded into air or
other gas where it is cooled and solidified, as in the manufacture of thermoplastic
fiber. It is the most critical operation in the production of the fibers as number of
fiber properties such as uniformity, crystallinity and orientation etc. are imparted
in the yarn during this process.
Requirements
The polymer should not be volatile.
The polymer should be thermoplastic.
The polymer should not decompose in the molten state and the melting point of polymer should be
300 c less than its decomposition temperature.

37
 Flow chart of melt spinning
1) Polymer feed
2) Melting of chips.
3) Static mixture (optional)
4) Prefiltration
5) Manifold for distribution of melt
6) Filtration
7) Spinneret
8) Cooling chimneys
9) Spin finish application
10) Take up winder
38
Melt spinning process
Polymer feed
The polymer is feed into the melt spinning unit in the form of chips. The chips should be:
Dried thoroughly or hydrolytic degradation may occur during melting
Free from outside impurities
Uniform size
Absence of polymer dust, which may cause higher melt viscosity.

Melting of chips
The chip is melting in grid or extruder. Grid is oldest one where extruder is most widely
used.

Static mixture
There is a substantial difference (18℃) in the temperature of melt near the wall of extruder
and its centre which causes non uniform characteristics in yarn. Therefore static mixture is
used between extruder and manifold or spin beam.
39
Melt spinning process
Prefiltration
The prefiltration device is arranged between the static mixture and the manifold. It performs
the following functions:
Retention of non-melted or not completely melted raw materials particles.
Retention and destruction of material of high viscosity.
Retention of small slubs which are caused by the pigments.
Manifold
After filtration the polymer melt is passed through a manifold or spin beam which divides a
molten polymer stream into many equal streams and meters these streams through filters and
spinneret to form fibers. The essential requirements are
To maintain all the polymer streams at the same temperature.
To give equal residence time for each steam.

40
Melt spinning process

Filtration
Filtration is done:
To remove and collect variety of non molten inclusions like dust and dirt
which causes fiber breakage.
Removal of pigment particles (Ti02) which are too large due to poor
dispersion.
Gels are also removed

Spinneret
The spinning solution that is melted passed through spinneret, extruded
through the holes. The size and shape of filament depends on spinneret hole.

41
Melt spinning process
The cooling chimney
The polymer emerges out from the spinneret then drowns off from the bottom and solidified in the
cooling air. The cooling of the filaments is affected with a cross air blast which is free from dust and
constant and uniform to get good quality yarn. During solidification the thread is simultaneously
subjected to drawing therefore characteristics such as tenacity, elongation and uniformity of the material
are fixed due to orientation of the polymer chain in the fiber.

Spin finish application

The spin finish is applied to quenched filaments before they are wound up into bobbins. The functions
are:
To impart low frictional properties in the yarn
To assist the drawing and winding operations
To confer antistatic properties
To impart cohesion between the filaments

Take up winding
The extruded filament from the spinneret after finish application has to be wound on a suitable holder
with proper winding device
42
Advantages of melt spinning
Direct and simple process
High production
No toxic hazards
No solvent required
No environmental pollution
Clean working condition

Disadvantages
Required more proper maintenance of the machine
Heat input is high.
Risk of explosion
43
Dry Spinning
It is the oldest manufacturing process for manmade fibers but still used in modern
synthetic production. In dry spinning, polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent is
introduced into a heated drying chamber where the solvent is evaporated and solid
fiber is obtained. It is more appropriate -

To those polymers which have no definite melting point before degradation.

To those which have a tendency to discoloration when heated.

Dry spinning is carried out by the following four steps

I. Dope preparation
II. Extrusion
III. Spinning
IV. Drawing or stretching

44
Dry Spinning Process
I. Dope preparation

Dissolution
The dry polymer is dissolved in the selected solvents to make solution.

Additions
To enhance the properties of the dope, many things are added as desired. The most used
is Ti02 as delustrant, pigments or soluble dyestuffs.

Filtration
To attain a satisfactory run from a spinning machine it is one of the greatest importance
to extrude a very homogeneous and regular dope free from any undissolved or swollen
polymer and any foreign impurities. It is essential to filter the dope thoroughly.

45
 Dry Spinning Process
II. Extrusion
The filtrated and controlled dope is fed to spinning machines through pipes which must be corrosion
resistant. The polymer is extruded through spinneret. Immediately below spinneret, preheated inert gas is
blown onto the forming filaments through circular jet system. The gas flow does not cause turbulences
that the filaments do not touch each other prematurely and fuse. The oxygen content of the spinning gas is
carefully checked to minimize discoloration in the fiber. Gas temperature is maintained 100c to 250°c.

III. Spinning
Fiber formation occurs as the filaments are drawn through the spinning chamber and solvent gradually
vaporizes. The bundle of such continuous filament combined with the similar bundle of filaments coming
from other parallel spinnerets.

IV. Stretching
The stretching process is done at much lower speed 30 - 90 m/min. The filament contains 10 - 50%
residual solvents which are removed by washing while stretching up to 10 - 15 times their original length.

46
Procedure Summery
Firstly the solid polymers are dissolved in the solution vessel with suitable solvent.
Additives are used to enhance the properties of fiber.
The solution vessel is filtered to remove impurities and stored to a feed vessel.
The solution is slightly heated by a heat exchanger.
Then it is pumped to spinneret at specific rate of pressure.
Hot N2gas is applied during the evaporation of the solvent to prevent any premature
reaction.
The evaporated gas is passed to the solvent recovery plant.
Solid filaments are treated with spin finish and then wound on a suitable package.

47
Solvents used for dry spinning

Solvent Used for Boiling Heat of

point (°c) evaporation(kcal/kg)
Carbon disulfide CS2 Polyacrylonitrile 159 116
+Dimethylformamide
Acetone CH3COOH PVC 55-56 125
+ CS2
Methylen Chloride Triacetate
(40%) +
Methanol (10%)
Dimethylformamide spandex

48
 Choice of solvents depend on

Solvent power Good solution making

Boiling point low
Heat of evaporation low
Thermal stability stable
Toxicity Non toxic
Recovery Easy recoverable
Cost/availability Cheap/available

49
 Wet Spinning
Wet spinning is the oldest process. It is used for fiber-forming
substances that have been dissolved in a solvent. The spinnerets
are submerged in a chemical bath and as the filaments
emerge they precipitate from solution and solidify. Because
the solution is extruded directly into the precipitating liquid, this
process for making fibers is called wet spinning. Acrylic,
rayon, aramid, modacrylic and spandex can be produced by
this process.
Wet spinning is carried out by the following steps
I. Dope preparation
II. Extrusion
III. Spinning
IV. Drawing or stretching
V. Drying & steaming- Fiber tow is dried under tension mostly on a set
of steam rollers whose surface temperature varies from 130 - 1600c.
50
Wet spinning solvents and coagulation bath

Fiber type Solvent Concentration Coagulation bath Concentra

% tion %
Viscose Alkaline water Dil. H2SO4+Na2SO4
+ZnSO4
Polyurethane Dimethylforma 100 Water +DMF 60
mide (DMF)
Polyvinyl Cyclohexanone Water + capropyl
chloride alcohol+cyclohexanone
Modacrylic Acetonitrile 10………15 Water/ acetonitrile
water

51
 Comparison of Melt, Dry and Wet Spinning

Parameter Melt Spinning Dry Spinning Wet Spinning

Principle Thermal exchange at Thermal exchange + mass Mass exchange

temperature higher than Tm exchange
Polymer mass viscosity High Medium Medium

Heat input in spinning High High Low

Range of solvent No solvent Organic only Organic and inorganic

Operating pressure High (100-300 bar) Medium -low up to 20 bar Medium-low up to 20 bar

Spinning speed High Yarn: up to 6000-7000 Medium Yarn: up to 1000 Low Yarn: <200 m/min
m/min m/min Tow: 5-40 m/min
Tow = 200-600 m/min
Solidification By cooling By evaporation By coagulation

Fiber structure Compact structure with smooth Micro-porous with compact Micro-porous with rough
Surface surface surface
52
Comparison of Melt, Dry and Wet Spinning

53
Spin finish
Spin finishes are usually organic fluids which are applied on the fiber/filament
(after spinning) to improve their subsequent performance and processing. It is
used in fluid condition just before winding of the fiber in the spindle.

Functions of spin finish

To lubricate for reducing the friction of fiber.
To increase flexibility.
Reduce brittleness.
To impart antistatic property
To increase cohesion of the filaments

54
Required properties of spin finish
It should have antistatic property.
It must provide cohesiveness to the filaments.
It should not be oxidized in the air.
It should be chemically inert.
It should not be carcinogenic.
It should be non toxic.
It should be cheap and available.
It should not affect dyeing and finishing process.

55
 Spin finishes are-
Lubricating agent: Used to reduce the friction and breakage of the filament.
Example:
a. Ester fatty acid
b. Mixed poly alkene oxide.
c. Ethers amino salt
d. Tertiary butyl ethers

Plasticizer: Plasticizers are low molecular weight non volatile substances which are
added in fiber to improve its flexibility, processibility and hence utility. The plasticizer
substantially reduces the brittleness of the fiber.

56
 Spin finishes are-
Antistatic Agent: Antistatic agents are hygroscopic chemicals which can absorb moisture and
conduct the static charge from fiber to air or earth.
Example:
a. Inorganic salt (lithium chloride)
b. Ester fatty acid (Butyl Stearate)

Additives
Additives are chemical compounds which are added to fiber forming polymer before
polymerization reaction or before spinning to change the properties of fiber and improve its
performance. Additives may be classified as:
Delustering Agent
Solution dyeing
Whitening agent
Light stabilizer
Heat stabilizer
57
Drawing
The process in which the fiber/filament is elongated by passing it through a
series of pairs of rollers, each pair moving faster than the previous one is
called drawing. Drawing is always carried out in a plastic condition. It is a
system which removes unstable, weak and brittle properties of filament.

Object or drawing
To uniform the orientation of polymer
chain in fiber matrix.
To increase crystallinity of fiber.
To increase strength.
To reduce weight per unit length.
To reduce elongation at break.
58
Texturization/Crimping
It is the process by which flat filaments are distorted to have crimps, curls,
coils or loops along their length to achieve strength, bulk and greater
absorbency.
Texturization is performed in three steps;
a. To heat the yarn to plastic condition
b. To impart the required shape to the filament
c. To cool it to retain the shape
Methods of texturization
False twist method
Knit de knit method
Stuffer box crimping
Gear box crimping
Edge crimping method
Air jet method
59
False-Twist Method
The fibre strand that comes out of the roller pair Z1, is fed to the
false twist region on a broad basis in the form of a web. The edge
fibres escape the twisting action due to the broad spread of the
fibres.

The core fibres have twist and the edge fibres have no twist or only
a few turns.

When the fibres come out of the twisting element, the twist in the
core is cancelled out and twist is imparted to all the fibres that
were originally untwisted. These edge fibres are wound around the
core fibres so that a bundled yarn is obtained.

60
Bundled Yarn
Structure

Also known as Fasciated yarn, it is observed that the core fibres are twist less and the edge fibres
have wrapped themselves around these core fibres to form this yarn.

It is very important that there are enough edge fibres that are twist less before entering the false
twister. If all the feed fibres were to get twisted before the false twister, then all of them would be
untwisted on coming out of the false twister and we would get no yarn.

Therefore to ensure that there are enough edge fibres, the Murata Jet spinning(MJS) has two air
nozzles (false twisters). A variety of twisting assemblies like hydraulic, mechanical, perforated
drums, double discs, double belts, rotating tubes etc may be used instead of the air nozzles
(pneumatic) that is used in case of MJS.
61
 Knit-de-Knit Method
• Knit-de knit texturing may be used on drawn fibre in
order to produce crimp of a knitted-loop shape.

• In this process a yarn is knitted into a tubular fabric, set in

place by means of heat, and then unravelled to produce
textured yarn.

• Knit-de-knit crinkling produces a crinkled or wavy

configuration. Multifilament yarns are first knitted into a
fabric. The fabric is then heat set and subsequently
unravelled (de-knit).

• The knitting gauge (the number of loops per inch)

determines the size of the yarn waves. This technique is
frequently combined with the application of dyestuffs to
produce uniquely colored and textured yarns for soft floor
coverings.
62
Stuffer-box Method

❖ The stuffer-box crimping technique is so

called because the yarns are rapidly stuffed
into a heated, box-like chamber. Because the
yarns are with- drawn slowly, they buckle
and back up on themselves.

❖ The three-dimensional crimp is permanently

set by the heat. The stuffer-box method is a
fast and inexpensive method for carpeting
yarn.

63
 Air Jet Method
• Air-jet texturing is used with a single type of yarn or with a blend of
filament yarns. In the latter case fancy yarn mixtures are obtained.

• This method of texturing is carried out by feeding a wet yarn or a dry

yarn plus a small amount of water into a high-speed jet of air.

• Yarns textured in such a process contain a large number of very fine

filaments, however, increasing the probability of entanglement.

• In air-jet texturing, filament yarns are feed over a tiny blast of air that
forces the filament into loops.

• This type of yarn is also called air-textured or air-entangled.

64
Advantages of texturization
a. Makes the fabric fuller and dull, better appearance
b. Softer handle and better covering power
c. Crease resistance, dimensionally stable
d. Higher absorbency and better perspiration conductivity, greater comfort
e. Air pocket insulation makes the garment warmer
Disadvantages
a. Pilling problem
b. Abrasion resistance is reduced

65
Intermingling/Interlacing
The process in which cohesion is imparted to the filament bundle by
entwining the filaments instead of twisting.

Heat Setting
The process of imparting dimensional stability to fibers, yarns or
fabrics usually by means of successive heating and cooling in dry or
moist condition is called heat setting. The different levels of heat
setting may be;

Temporary set
Semi permanent set
Permanent set

Objects of heat setting

a. To make the fiber, yarn or fabric dimensionally stable.

b. To reduce the shrinkage of fabric.
66
Thanks

67