YEET22 V.

2
By Shit_On_Wheels

Disclaimer: Read whole manual before printing and assembling anything. While this design does not require any
power tools or skills, some parts may be difficult to print and some hardware may not be freely available
everywhere.

Select fire variant is not legal to build anywhere in the world unless you have appropriate manufacturing license.
Semi-automatic variant is legal to build in most states of America, but illegal in all countries apart from USA. If
smoothbore barrel is used, it‘s classification changes from pistol to AOW and so it requires tax stamp and
registration. Look up your local laws if you’re unsure about its legality. If you’re not a resident of USA, make sure to
permanently delete this document, all files that came with it and all traces that may have been left that led to it
being downloaded, as these things can be used as evidence.

Neither the author nor any kind of organization takes responsibility for misuse of this document and 3D models.

Beware that pictures of some parts may have slight differences from updated models.

Description: YEET22 V.2 is fully-DIY self-loading pistol or select-fire machine pistol (depends on what parts are
chosen) chambered for .22LR cartridge. It uses cheap and expendable hardware that is available worldwide.
Tools needed:

1x Phillips head screwdriver.

1x 2.5mm hex key. Optional. Not needed if all screws use Phillips heads.

1x Wire cutter. It has to be beefy enough to cut spring wire up to 0.9mm in diameter.1x Pliers. Can be substituted
with any kind of drill.

1x Hacksaw. Can be substituted with any other metal-cutting tool. Optional.

1x File. Shape doesn’t matter, round file may be more comfortable to use for barrel deburring.

1x 3mm drill bit.

1x 5.7mm reamer, 5.74mm reamer or no. 1 wire gauge drill bit.

Purchasing 5.74mm reamer may attract unwanted attention from authorities in EU and Asia. It’s the best option for
USA citizens.

1x Epoxy or superglue.

1x Digital or mechanical calipers.

1x 3D printer with at least 200x200 horizontal dimensions.

1x Strong alcohol.

You cannot do this sober. And you will cut and scratch your hands a lot, so it can be used as disinfectant too.
Hardware list:

Springs:
Sear block spring - 8mm OD, 0.7 mm thickness, 30mm length.
Main spring - 11-12mm OD, 0.8-0.9mm thickness, 95mm length.
Secondary spring (impact dampener) - 9mm OD, 0.9mm thickness, minimum ID 7mm, 34mm length.
Sear & disconnector spring (x2) - 7mm OD, 0.5mm thickness, 12mm length.
Striker spring - 12mm OD, 0.8mm thickness, 100mm length.
Magazine spring - 9mm OD, 0.6mm thickness, 140mm length.
Mag release spring - 8mm OD, 0.6mm thickness, 9mm length.
Safety switch spring - 5-6mm OD, 0.4mm or less thickness, 7mm length.
All these springs can be ordered from Aliexpress. There is no direct link to sellers because product placement
changes and some springs randomly become unavailable in one store and become available in another.

M3 screws:
Note that they’re called screws and not bolts to prevent confusion during bolt assembly process.
32mm x1.
29mm x3
18mm x1
20mm x1
23mm x1
16mm x2
8mm x5
M3 nut x1
M3 screw for the firing pin - 42mm x1

Screws can be sourced from most hardware stores .Try Aliexpress if you cannot source 42mm screw locally. Longer
screws can be cut down if you‘re in short supply of short ones. Get more screws than you need just in case you lose
some.

Barrel – 8mm-16mm OD, chambered for .22lr, 70mm min. length, at least 100mm advisable.
This barrel can be: made from barrel blank, pre-chambered barrel, ECM‘d barrel, scavenged and re-chambered
5.5mm airgun barrel. The later should be as long as possible to increase backpressure. Airgun barrels shorter than
150mm may not provide enough of it to reliably cycle the mechanism. ECM rifled .22 barrels can be produced with
ImmortalRevolt's ECM System Version 3.5 https://odysee.com/@c0ld_d8rk_h8nd:8/ECM-Barrels-v3.5:e

For magnetic delay mechanism, these magnets can be used. 8x3-3 option.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPm6gMk
Magnetic delay is optional, all it does is reduce the rate of fire in automatic mode.

M3 melt-in thread insert (5-6mm length) x2. Again, might be available in hardware stores, but can be found
on Aliexpress too. Only one is needed for semi-automatic version.

One 6mm ball bearing. Can be substituted with airsoft bb.

Printing tips:

Set layer height to 0.16.

Do not change model orientations, they’re already in position which provides best structural integrity and least
amount of supports. If your printer has small bed, you can turn slide and frame diagonally, but do not try to change
angle vertically.

Do not use anything softer or more brittle than PLA+.

Set support angle to 70-75.

Every part should have at least 99 percent infill.

Do not mess with cooling settings, layer adhesion won’t be much better.

Recommended speed for walls, infill, everything is 50-60mm/s.

Use support blockers for those small holes.

Use support roof or interface. Set Z distance to 0.16

Enable conical supports, 40 degree angle. They can be printed way faster than tree supports and are easier to
remove.

Supports will be hard to remove anyway, so take a shot of liquor.

Assembly
Assembly process does not necessarily have to follow these steps in depicted order. If you’re unsure what screw to
use, measure outer distance between holes with calipers and subtract 2.8mm.

Barrel:

Acquire the barrel of desired length.

It should be chambered to about 24.5mm depth with the tool of your choice. Both the drill bit and reamer can be
spun with pliers or a drill. Don’t chamber any deeper than 25.4mm or blowback pressure will drop and prevent
optimal cycling of the action.

File off any burrs on the hole where barrel is meant to be seated.

Put a stick or any wooden slab over it and hammer it into place if the hole is too tight.

Use a drop of paint, ink or just a long sharp needle to mark the location where retaining screw goes. Remove the
barrel. Use a hacksaw or a file to cut a slit into the barrel so that this screw can go through it.

Barrels with OD of 14mm or less do not use retaining screw. They are glued in place. Glue should be applied from
the front, where hole is oversized (slight gap between metal and plastic).

Put the barrel back inside. Screw in the retaining screw to see if slit is deep enough. If there’s slight wobble, it’ll be
fixed with glue.

Now make sure that chambered end is flush with the feeding ramp. Pour some epoxy or superglue into the hole
where retaining screw goes. If barrel wobbles back and forth, pour more glue. Finally put in the screw, check if
chambered end is still flush with the breech and wait for the glue to set. Take a shot of liquor. And wash your
hands.
When glue has fully hardened, file off any streaks and blobs that stuck to the frame. Cut the screw if it protrudes
from the frame and file it off until it’s flush with the plastic. Do the same with the screw head, file off the top
portion.
Bolt block:

Bolt block is actually one of the easiest parts to work with. All you have to do is run that 3mm drill bit through the
firing pin hole and make sure that m3 screw can slide through it with no resistance.

There’s a recession for magnet to be attached. You can fill it with a short screw as it is not necessary for semi-auto
variant. It’s only useful in full auto mode and barrel has to be at least 14mm in OD for it to provide a decrease in
rate of fire.

Striker:
Put a nut into a hexagonal space at the front of the striker. Heat it up and push deeper if it refuses to seat in
normally. Run the longest screw from the opposite direction, make sure it’s tightened well. Now push the striker
into the bolt block to see how much it protrudes from its face. It should protrude by 0.5mm or less. This protrusion
is measured from the very front of the bolt, not from the deeper recession where butt of the cartridge seats. Cut
the screw if it’s too long. File down the tip into vertical chisel shape. Sharpest point should be 0.1-0.3mm wide.
Check the fitting again. File off sharp corners of the tip so it does not get caught on the sides of the hole while it
slides through the bolt block. Take a shot of liquor. Heat up the sear surface with a lighter just a little bit to smooth
it out. These are the imperfect final results of filing and fitment.
Fire control group:

Due to reverse trigger pivot point and overall unusual design, this step may seem a little bit confusing.

Squeeze FCG slider and its spring into position. It’s best to start with the spring. This can be quite tricky, but tiny
flathead screwdriver can be used to hold spring in place while slider is being pushed in.

Attach both trigger bars to the slide, secure them with a screw.

Run 3mm drill bit through trigger’s pivoting point hole, make sure it can spin freely around m3 screw.

Secure the trigger and trigger guard to the frame. Put a screw through the front end of both trigger bars. A nut can
be used on the other side, but it’s not really necessary.
Drill out the holes on sear and disconnector to make sure that they’re not smaller than 3mm. Heat up both sear
surfaces so that they’re nice and smooth.
Place a spring in each recession. Start screwin’ the screw on which these parts pivot until it’s dug significantly into
the plastic and you no longer need to hold it with other hand to keep screwin’.

Put sear and disconnector parallel to each other inside the frame. Hold them in place and keep screwin’ that screw
until it’s all the way in and visible from the right side. Now put some grease or oil on sear surfaces and all over the
mechanism. Take a shot of liquor.

Pull the trigger and see if mechanism functions correctly. When trigger is pulled, sear should move down and
disconnector should rise up.
When trigger is released, disconnector should move down and sear should rise up.

Safety switch (Optional):

Drill out the hole that goes back-to-front with 3mm bit. Seat the spring in the frame and ball bearing on top of it.
Push in the selector. Put a screw through the back of the frame so that it acts like a stabilizing rail for the switch.
When switch is in forward position, sear is not able to move down.

Slide:

There is not much that has to be done to the slide apart from optional attachments – sight slab and fun switch.
Switch can only be attached to select-fire version of the slide.
Brass insert should be melted into the rear sight piece. Adjustment screw should have a nut on the right side. Glue
this nut to the screw so it cannot unscrew itself. Here are some pictures that show how sight slab and slide should
be assembled:
Final steps:

Now it’s time put the slide on the frame. But first you have to arrange bolt block and striker like this:

Take a shot of that sweet juice. Mmmm…

Insert the main spring and put buffer spring inside of it. Put on the slide from the front and make sure it lines up
with the bolt block. Put two screws in.

Now mount the ejector. You may want to put a washer on top, behind the head of the screw, but it’s not really
necessary.
Finally, install the mag catch and squeeze in a spring behind it. Take a shot and start swearing in your native
language.

Magazine:

That’s just too easy. Pop in the follower, then the spring, put in something like a screw or a popsicle stick to hold
the spring. There is no model for any kind of plug. Why? Because I think it’s funny and every mag should be unique
in its own ugly way. Just kidding. Print the plug.

General tips:

Sand/file every corner that seems off. Linear advance settings cannot be easily tuned without Marlin firmware, so
that’s the only way to solve some fitment problems. Sharp corners on horizontal plane usually expand, so try to
make them flush with the rest of the surface.

Sanding and filing will solve all issues related to friction.

You can put additional screw vertically through the butt of the frame. This can prevent critical failure if cartridge
with extra spicy load somehow finds its way into your magazine.

Oil the rails and ejector a little bit from time to time.

If slide cannot fully close, feeding ramp may be the culprit. Heat it up a little bit and push the slide forward until
bolt touches the breech. Smooth out the ramp with a file afterwards.

Due to loose tolerances ejector may not work properly on the first try, so you may have to file some of it off or heat
and bend it until it works as it should. Same goes for the little knob on the slide that pushes it front and back.
If magazine refuses to feed smoothly, there probably are imperfections on the inside that have to be filed off.

Autoswitch does not work as-is and has to be tuned. Insert an empty casing and close the slide. File off material
from the switch until it releases disconnector at the right moment – when slide is 0.1mm from closing. Heat re-
forming is a good alternative to filing here.

If striker seems too weak, glue in some large washers in front of the spring.

Ejection and cycling issues can be caused by a rough chamber, too loose rifling/bore and insufficient barrel length.
If long barrel and polished chamber does not help, remove the sight slab or magnet to reduce the weight and try
shooting again.

Use blank cartridge to test the first shot.

Use standard or hypervelocity cartridges for further testing. Subsonics may not cycle reliably.

To test full-auto mode for the first time, load one live cartridge in the chamber and one cartridge with no powder
(just primer and lead) in the magazine. Both cartridges should fire, second one probably won’t eject. If this test was
successful, proceed to testing with several live cartridges in the magazine.

Don’t use underextruded or defective parts whose structural integrity is compromised.

Wear eye protection while shooting, especially in enclosed spaces.

Special thanks to:

- All testers from Deterrence Dispensed, but especially Provsy, Maslicko and [individual who wants to remain
anonymous]

- Deterrence Dispensed chat admins

- Members of /r/Fosscad

- Members of The Archive discord server

- PlasticBlasters and HulkHoganHH for fully printable designs that inspired YEET 22

- Cheap alcohol that fueled development of this abomination