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BurmAmerican Foodscapes: Refugee Re Settlement and Resilience
BurmAmerican Foodscapes: Refugee Re Settlement and Resilience
ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
This essay examines the resettlement of Burmese refugees in the United Burmese; refugees; farms;
States through the lens of food. Looking specifically at Christian com- Karen; meat packing; COVID
munity gardens, corporatized meat processing, a feature film, and non-
fiction book, I analyze how Karen refugees have participated in U.S. food
economies and investigate processes of selective and serial migration,
religion, representation, and community-building. “Critically juxtapos-
ing” two different, although related, case studies enables a preliminary
mapping of how refugees from Burma/Myanmar have resettled in the
United States in the early twenty-first century, with a focus on legibility,
racialization, traditional ecological knowledge (TEK), and mutual aid.
Introducing BurmAmerica
This essay examines ethnic and religious politics in Burmese resettlement in the United
States by focusing on refugee gardens and employment in meat processing. This mapping
highlights two avenues through which refugees and recent immigrants from Myanmar have
entered into American food economies and investigates related processes of representation,
religious dynamics, serial and selective migration, and community formation. Discussing
these two case studies follows the method of “critical juxtaposing,” outlined by Y n Lê
Espiritu in her articulation of Critical Refugee Studies (2014): “the deliberate bringing
together of seemingly different and disconnected events, communities, histories, and spaces
in order to illuminate what would otherwise not be visible.”1 My assembling of different
food-based sites brings into dialogue work from different disciplines (e.g., area studies,
ethnic studies, religion, anthropology, history, refugee studies, and cultural studies) in order
to illuminate dynamics of Burmese resettlement in the United States in the early twenty-first
century. Heeding Espiritu’s call to conceptualize the “refugee” as a “social actor whose life,
when traced, illuminates the interconnections of colonization, war, and global social
change,”2 this analysis of Burmese refugees offers an inaugural survey of the terms of
legibility, racialization, and community networks in the United States.
Following Karen Cardozo and Banu Subramanian’s critical praxis of “assembling Asian/
American naturecultures,” this essay offers a glimpse at a larger research endeavor that
tracks how immigrants and resettled refugees from Burma/Myanmar have participated in
American food chains.3 This comparative study, to quote from Cardozo and Subramanian,
CONTACT Tamara Ho tammyh@ucr.edu UCR GSST Department, 900 University Ave., Riverside, CA 92521, USA
© 2021 The Regents of the University of California
74 T. HO
Those who make it to the U.S., however, find that Americans generally have no idea they exist.
“Everyone thinks I’m Chinese,” Kaw Hser says. “That’s what they say. ‘I thought you were
Chinese.’ No, I’m Karen. ‘Korean?’ No, Karen. K-A-R-E-N.”20
The quotation above illustrates how ethnic minority groups from Burma/Myanmar are
often misunderstood within U.S. categories of race and become illegible as ethnic groups
from Asia. Chin and Karen peoples have been favored in past (pre-Trump)
U.S. resettlement policies for refugees from Myanmar, which has resulted in a process of
religious selection and an overdetermination of Christian identification. This section
provides a brief overview of Chin diversity and a longer history of Karen literacy and
migration to the U.S. in order to set up my subsequent discussion of All Saints and to
highlight some material and ideological consequences of this repeated erasure and
misrecognition.
On March 14, 2020, in Midland, Texas, three members of a Chin family, Bawi Cung
Nung and two of his children (ages 2 and 6), were stabbed by a 19 year old who assumed
they were “Chinese and infecting people with the coronavirus.”21 Around 60,000 Chin
refugees live in the United States, but the bulk of English-language reporting referred to the
victims generically as “Asian” or “Asian American.”22 Some early reports conflated “Chin”
with “Chinese” in their discussion of then-President Donald Trump’s use of the inflamma-
tory phrase “kung flu” and his scapegoating of China during the pandemic. This violent
misrecognition of a resettled Chin refugee family was one of the earliest examples of the
recent escalation in anti-Asian racism catalyzed by white supremacist popular and political
rhetoric (see Figures 1 and 2). Community-based organizations such as Stop AAPI Hate
have documented how, “in 2020, there was a 150% increase in hate crimes against Asian
Americans in 16 cities – physical and verbal harassment, and sometimes, much worse.”23
Chin refugees come from a predominantly Christian ethnic minority group based in
western Burma. Coming from a territory that is one of the most ethnically diverse in the
nation, the people who are labeled “Chin” include at least six primary tribal groups, further
sub-categorized into 63 sub-tribes, with cultural variations and speaking at least 20 mutually
unintelligible dialects. While some Chin practice animism, almost all Chin refugees in the
United States are Christian, having been displaced by brutal ethnoreligious discrimination
under Burman-dominated militarism since 1988. Most belong to Protestant denomina-
tions, especially Baptist, which has facilitated their ability to affiliate with American
Christian communities in the process of resettlement.24
The rest of this section limns the instrumental role that religion has played in Karen
postcolonial literacy, nationalism, and migration order to set the stage for how Karen
refugees from Burma have also forged alliances within U.S. Christian spaces and institu-
tions. The July 2020 meme below highlights how some Karen in the United States desire to
reclaim or resignify their ethnonym (see Figure 3).25 What I highlight here is the endeavor
to articulate a distinct refugee identity through the public sphere of social media: declaring
AMERASIA JOURNAL 77
Figure 1. “Bawi Cung Nung”. Chinese American artist Rei Lo shared Figures 1 and 2 on Twitter on July 11,
2020 as part of her “Unveiled in Red” series with the hashtags #hateisavirus and #iamnotavirus. Reprinted
with permission of artist. Rei Lo explained on Twitter: “In this series of portraits, I hope to promote greater
awareness and condemn these heinous acts toward the Asian community. Too often our stories go
untold and underreported. It’s time we change that” (July 11, 2020), https://twitter.com/ReiiiLo/status/
1282048135318175744?s=20 and https://twitter.com/ReiiiLo/status/1282049153078636544.
Karen as an “ethnic group indigenous to the Thailand-Burma border region” who have
been displaced from their homelands because of sustained civil warfare and persecution by
the Burman-dominated postcolonial governments of Burma/Myanmar.
The Karen are a highly plural indigenous borderland group. As the “best-documented
minority group in modern Burmese history,” the many studies of Karen history and politics
are impossible to summarize in detail here.26 Within Myanmar, they are considered one of
the major indigenous minority populations, an “ethnic nationality.” Karen migration to
Southeast Asia predates that of the Burmans, “some 1,000 years ago,” and the Pwo Karens
(a.k.a., Talaing Kayin or Mon-Karen) had special ritual status as “original settlers” within
the Mon court.27 Living in the mountainous terrain that is divided today by nations called
Myanmar and Thailand, Karen is “a collective term for twenty-odd ethnic sub-groups,” and
“there are linguistic, sociocultural, religious, and political differences between these various
sub-groups.”28 Although the 1989 renaming campaign dubbed Karen populations “Kayin,”
Karen nationalists “have strongly rejected” both “Myanmar” and the exonym “Kayin.”29
Scholars have noted how members of this population tactically adopt multiple, shifting
ethnic signifiers (e.g., “being ‘Karen’ in some contexts, and ‘Thai’ in others”), yet there is
also a collective sense of kinship among Karen, a shared sense of displacement and desire for
78 T. HO
Figure 2. His 6-year-old son Robert” by Rei Lo (July 2020). Reprinted with permission of artist.
the Karen divided into two. One group, known as the ‘mother side,’ or Pwo Karen, travelled
through central Burma and settled in what is now the Irrawaddy Delta. The “father side,” the
Sgaw Karen, followed the Salween River and settled in an area of mountainous jungle in what is
now the border region of Burma and Thailand. Many centuries later the British officially
created that border and split our tribe in two.32
Phan explains how the Karen were subjugated and persecuted by the Mon and Burman
groups who also settled in the region and established empires prior to British occupation.
The Burmans named the people “Kayin,” and the British adapted this label and institutio-
nalized the name “Karen” in the nineteenth century.33 Phan also notes how British
AMERASIA JOURNAL 79
Figure 3. “The problem with saying Karen.” July 25, 2020. Posted by karen_never_die on Instagram.
Screenshot on August 5, 2020.
strategies of dividing colonized populations created uneven alliances and intensified reli-
gious antagonisms between Buddhist Burmans and Christian Karens.
When the British colonized Burma, the Karen were treated more equally, and many Karen
considered that life was better under British rule. Many Karen were converted to Christianity,
and the British exploited ethnic and religious differences in Burma in their effective divide and
rule strategy . . . .
During the Second World War the British promised the Karen they would be given an
independent country once Burma gained independence, and so would be free from oppres-
sion. But the British broke their promise, and left the Karen in Burma when the country
gained independence in 1948. So began decades of oppression and discrimination against
the Karen people.34Despite the broken promises of the British, Karen postcolonial nation-
alism is strongly interwoven with Anglo/American loyalty.
Various scholars identify the earliest articulation of Karen ethnic sensibilities and
nationalism to 1842, when The Morning Star (Sah Muh Taw) newspaper was established
through American Baptist patronage in Tavoy.35 Building on Benedict Anderson’s the-
ories of nationalism and print media, Ashley South explains that as “one of the first
indigenous language journals in Asia,” the Morning Star “helped foster the emergence of
a self-consciously Karen, S’ghaw speaking (and Christian) ‘imagined community’.”36
Jeffrey Lewis Petry asserts that The Morning Star, as “the longest running vernacular
newspaper in Southeast Asia” (1842–1962), and other Karen publications of the late
nineteenth and early twentieth centuries “broadcast the emergence of a new Christian
nation.”
Karen served as jungle guides for British forces and as allies during the Anglo-Burmese wars
(1826, 1852, and 1886) and World War I: “Their knowledge of the local terrain and jungle warfare
made possible the success of guerrilla operations” during World War II, and when “British forces
were driven from Burma in 1942, it was the Karen who covered the British retreat.”37,38
80 T. HO
Thus Burman hegemony, ethnic politics, and colonial religious histories have func-
tioned as “push” factors that drive the displacement and migration of non-Buddhist
populations from Myanmar to the United States. The next section turns to survey the
American landscape of resettlement. My analysis of All Saints highlights how minoritized
Christian refugees from Burma are assimilated into the Black-white racial paradigm and
how Karen have demonstrated resilience by utilizing their traditional ecological knowl-
edge (TEK).
the strange crop over which Anglo volunteers had shaken their heads . . . provided the
summer’s greatest cash success. The sour leaf had grown . . . a delicacy that would appear to
be in such demand among Asian Americans that grocery chains were willing to pay three
dollars a pound. The Kurios crop was quickly snapped up, and they could have sold far more.55
The fictional film was favorably reviewed within Christian spheres and by secular publica-
tions such as The Hollywood Reporter and Variety. While Christian audiences appreciated
a “Hollywood” narrative that represented a rural Southern church in a positive way,56 the
true story of mutual aid and the movie’s avoidance of the white messiah/savior trope was
universally praised by secular reviewers as part of its appeal and charm: “At ‘All Saints,’ it
was the refugees who saved the Americans.”57
The publication of the nonfiction book All Saints, co-written by Michael Spurlock and
writer Jeanette Windle, accompanied the movie’s release. It explains how proceeds from
crop sales were donated to help pay All Saints’ $850,000 mortgage and bills, and that the
newly named Kurios Farm also supplied Smyrna’s Food Bank and the Salvation Army food
drive.58 Not surprisingly, the book provides significantly more detail about Karen history,
religion, and politics compared to the film. Spurlock and Windle not only document Ye
Win’s backstory, but also spotlight other key figures who are omitted from the film, such as
Father Bu Christ, the Karen Anglican rector who worked alongside Ye Win and Spurlock as
the refugee community’s spiritual leader. While the religious diversity among the Karen is
not acknowledged in the movie, the book explains that the Karen are the largest ethnic
minority in Myanmar and that many Karen practice animist traditions or “had converted to
the Buddhism of their Burmese conquerors.”59 Many Karen continue to practice traditional
forms of ancestor worship (aw chä), rituals related to rice production, matrilineage, and
animal sacrifice; estimates vary from 42.9% in 1983 to 5-10% in 1998. Animists are officially
subsumed under the “Buddhist” category, which makes up the majority.
As mentioned earlier, despite intraethnic variation within those who are labeled “Karen”
in terms of religion, language, and political orientation, the Karen resistance movement
“has been dominated by a right-wing, Christian (Seventh-day Adventist and Baptist),
S’ghaw-speaking elite.”60 Spurlock and Windle describe Ye Win’s family as part of
a “sizeable percentage” of Karen who can trace their Christian heritage back “four genera-
tions to Adoniram Judson and other foreign missionaries who first brought the gospel of
Jesus Christ to the Karen . . . and other hill peoples of Burma.”61 The book highlights Ye
Win’s Christian genealogy as well as his own crisis of faith with God and with KNU-led
warfare:
Ye Win’s father was a seminary graduate and pastor. Two of his older siblings were evangelists,
but Ye Win himself had turned his back on that life when he first joined the Karen resistance
army at age thirteen. He couldn’t remember the last time he set foot in a church. His world, his
heart, had been so filled with hate, with killing. How could he call out to God with so much
blood on his hands?62
The book parallels Ye Win and Spurlock as men with doubts about their vocation, while the
film emphasizes their respective sacrifices on behalf of the Karen community and how they
work together to convince the local white congregation, the Bishop, and Episcopalian
diocese council to turn the All Saints’ property into a successful refugee farm.
Armor’s screenplay and Gomer’s identification with the Southeast Asian refugees in
Tennessee interpellate the Karen into the Jewish diaspora and a Judeo-Christian American
AMERASIA JOURNAL 83
settler identity.63 Since the 1800s, missionary education has encouraged Karen Christians
“to accept, uncritically, certain oral traditions about early Karen history,” in particular the
Y’wa (Yoà) creation myth, which promised the return of Younger White Brother from the
West with a lost (stolen) Golden Book.64 In the 1800s, American Baptist missionary Francis
Mason proposed that the “Karens might be one of the lost tribes of Israel.”65 Other
American missionaries and Karen Christians also reify the synchronicity of the Karen
creator Y’wa/Yoà and Yahweh, the God of the Israelites in the Jewish Bible/Old
Testament. Spurlock and Windle also underscore that some Karen Christians continue to
believe they are the “descendants of one of the ten lost tribes of Israel.”66 Reinforcing this
Judeo-Christian association, director Steve Gomer recounted how meeting the Burmese
refugees in Smyrna resonated with his Russian Jewish heritage and with the history of the
United States as a nation built by immigrants and refugees:
At dinner at Ye Win’s house, my wife and I realized we were sort of in a time machine. We were
sitting with our great-grandparents from Russia, who had a very similar experience in the 1890s
as refugees and immigrants . . . . That’s who the United States is. Building community. This is
our story, and it’s any refugee’s story, although there are special circumstances in this story to
make it even better.67
Gomer’s statement about the Karen “time machine” effect is echoed in Armor’s script in
scenes highlighting Karen primitivism.
When the Karen refugees attend their first service at All Saints, Reverend Spurlock
(Corbett) complains to his wife that the Karen are “farmers from the Bronze Age who can’t
even afford shoes!” before he turns and sees that the Karen newcomers do own shoes and have
left them next to the door. Discursive utterances on and off camera situate the Karen refugees
as doubly displaced: both geographically distant from their Southeast Asian homelands and
temporally from another era (1890s or “the Bronze Age”). This lack of coevality emphasizes
how the Karen Christians are out of step with modernity and American norms of civility and
sets the stage for their (past) savagery: “These particular refugees were not just traumatized
refugees but experienced guerrilla fighters.”68 The manner in which the Karen refugees’
combat skills enable them to defend themselves against local drug dealers (in the book) and
school bullies (in the film), and Ye Win’s history with jungle warfare further resonate with the
Southeast Asian refugee soldier figure, theorized by Hmong American scholar Ma Vang.69
The representation of the Karen as out of sync with American norms reifies their exoticism
and their traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) signals their indigeneity, yet their
Christianity and willingness to work hard at agricultural and manual labor simultaneously
earn them a meritorious “model minority” status within (Euro)American Protestant settler
imaginaries.70 When Spurlock tries to convince a local retired farmer named Forrest (Barry
Corbin) about the viability of the proposed refugee project, the minister rhetorically asks,
“What’s more American than farming?” This statement implies that the Karen request to
cultivate land owned by the Diocese aligns with the Eurocentric settler-colonial standpoint
that developed the United States. This statement authorizes the Karen refugees’ ability to
assimilate into the settler endeavor of cultivating land and edible plants for profit, which is tied
to Manifest Destiny and the forced displacement of Native, Black, and Brown communities. In
both the book and the movie, Spurlock explains to his wife that God said to him, “I have given
you farmland. And I have given you 65 farmers from the other side of the world. What don’t you
84 T. HO
understand, Michael? You must start a farm.”71 This divine mandate illustrates the settler
amnesia that undergirds the triumphant narrative of All Saints.
What is elided is the fact that the land in Smyrna was not given freely to Spurlock
or the Karen refugees by God or the Episcopal Diocese, but rather was made open for
Euro-American cultivation and Confederate plantations by the displacement of Native
and Black peoples in 1838, when the Tennessee Trail of Tears forced over 15,000
Cherokee from their homes and farms, along with enslaved African Americans and
Creek.72 Forrest opines that Spurlock is not capable of being the (cruel) overseer that
a profitable farm requires; however, he also eventually joins the All Saints’ effort after
bonding with Ye Win as fellow veterans. As survivors of and loyal allies from messy
Southeast Asian wars, the Karen migrants, like Vietnamese and Hmong refugee
soldiers before them, are able to affectively “earn” a vexed place in American resettle-
ment and militarized brotherhood.
At the same time, the film emphasizes the illegibility of the Karen on the American racial
landscape. In an opening scene at a U.S. welfare office, a white clerk (Kate Forbes) summons
an Asian American translator (Ivan Leung) to speak to Ye Win (Nelson Lee). This initial
scene signals to English-speaking audiences that not all Asians speak the same language,
and that Karen is not the same as Korean.
Translator: Wait, are you Korean? [to clerk] Excuse me! Is he even Korean?
[looks at Ye Win, nods slightly, then leaves, while the clerk shrugs her shoulders]
This distinction is repeated during Ye Win’s first extended conversation with Spurlock:
Ye Win: We have welfare, but many new family sleep on floor, not enough food for their
children . . . . We are Anglican.
Ye Win: Karen. From Burma. We were occupied by the British. We learn about Jesus Christ
from the British.
Scriptwriter Armor freely admitted his own confusion between Korean and Karen
in interviews accompanying the movie’s release.74 Even as the film acknowledges
American ignorance about Burma, the next scene shows the pastor at his computer,
AMERASIA JOURNAL 85
reading online articles about the Karen “genocide” and the protracted half-century of
civil war between the Karen and Burman-dominated governments.
At every turn of the movie, Spurlock labors to convince the Euro-American community
and authority figures to accept and support the Karen refugees. Although secular reviewers
praised All Saints for avoiding the messiah trope, the movie still utilizes white Christian
savior symbolism. Spurlock’s dedication to his new parishioners is not only in terms of
advocacy, but also rendered as corporeal sacrifice. During a misunderstanding that escalates
into violence, Spurlock literally puts his body between two white police officers and agitated
Karen refugees, and receives a blow to his head that causes blood to run down the side of his
face. Despite his physical wounds, Spurlock is able to ameliorate the situation by calling on
redemptive white civility and Christian hegemony. The white minister’s selfless dedication
to the community farm is further emphasized by close-up shots of his blistered and
wounded hands later in the film. When costs escalate, Spurlock takes out a personal loan
and risks his financial future to keep the farm running.
The triangulation of race in the film is enabled by the interracial doubling of pastoral
sacrifice. Spurlock’s efforts on behalf of the Karen are rewarded by unexpected aid from his
mentor and supervisor in the Episcopalian diocese. When the first crop fails due to a flood,
All Saints is saved from closure by Bishop Thompson, who is played by African American
actor Gregory Alan Williams. The cross-racial casting of Bishop Eldon Thompson departs
from the actual racial landscape of Tennessee.75 Although Thompson is initially ambiva-
lent, he is ultimately moved by what Spurlock and the Karen refugees have created:
a Christian, ecumenical community that coheres as religiously pluralist, interracial, and
transnational.76 The Black Bishop resigns his position on the all-white Diocese council so
that his salary can go toward funding the All Saints’ mission. Thompson’s socioeconomic
sacrifice parallels how Spurlock volunteered his body as a material and ideological buffer
during the encounter with the police. While Spurlock offers his body, time, and labor to
help the Southeast Asian refugees, Thompson forfeits his relative affluence and institutional
privilege in order to save All Saints and declares his desire to return to his missionary
vocation of serving underprivileged communities of color. Suggesting that he might return
“to Africa” or “maybe Burma,” Thompson walks away from managing “spreadsheets” and
his administrative role to return to proselytizing in the Global South/Third World. In
interviews, Williams invokes another African American minister, Dr. Martin Luther
King, Jr. and his 1963 “Letter from Birmingham Jail.” The actor opines that All Saints is
a story about how we are more similar than we are different. It’s a great American story. It’s the
kind of story that has repeated itself thousands of times in this country. Dr. King told us that we
are tied to the single garment of destiny and whatever affects one directly, affects all of us
indirectly, and that’s what this story is about. It’s about that single garment of destiny. That one
hungry child, he’s my hungry child, even if it’s not my child. One refugee. A refugee is my
brother, my sister.77
King’s exhortation about “an inescapable network of mutuality” represents the interracial
tapestry, “that single garment of destiny,” that is the United States, and Williams further
extends King’s offer of kinship and mutual aid to twenty-first century refugees.
All Saints’ cross-racial casting both buttresses the film’s interracial appeal and reveals its
limits. The inclusion of a Black Bishop as the only African American character in the movie
indexes the history and continuing presence of Black religious leadership in the U.S. South
86 T. HO
and forced migration.82 Although not necessarily decolonial or restorative in relation to Native
American advocacy for land back, food justice, or African American reparations, these farming
projects have given refugee families access to an ongoing supply of fresh food outside of the
U.S. welfare or traditional capitalist system while also counteracting the more toxic influence of
the Standard American diet, which encourages the overconsumption of fat, sugar, and processed
foods.83
Tyson Foods, Pilgrim’s Pride and other large food processors in the U.S. increasingly are
turning to refugees from Myanmar, Sudan, Somalia, and other countries for a more stable
workforce. Tyson Foods processing complexes in Center, Texas; Shelbyville, Tennessee;
Waterloo, Iowa; and elsewhere each employ hundreds of resettled refugees.85 That
same year, 400 Chin refugees “descended on” Columbus Junction, Iowa, “and more are
arriving by the week to reunite with friends and relatives and work grueling jobs for Tyson.
Like other waves of immigrants, they were drawn to this poor, sparsely populated region of
southeastern Iowa by the promise of jobs, good schools and welcoming people.”86
In 2020, many meat processing workers who first tested positive for and eventually died
because of COVID-19 were refugees from Myanmar (some Chin, some Karen, but detailed
disaggregated ethnic information is not yet available). Catastrophic outbreaks affecting refugee
workers from Myanmar were reported in Texas, Colorado, and Iowa. Many Burmese employed
in meat packing – like the refugees based in Dallas, Texas, Karen in Tennessee, and Chin in
Iowa – regularly make long commutes between their factory workplaces and their “tight-knit
neighborhoods,” often in crowded multi-passenger carpool vans. Corporate capitalism acceler-
ated the spread of COVID-19 among workers through punitive workplaces, lack of social
distancing, inadequate personal protective equipment, and incentivizing working while sick.
Despite 444 Tyson workers in Waterloo, Iowa testing positive for COVID-19 in April 2020,
Tyson, with support from the Iowa governor, delayed closing the plant as the outbreak spread to
88 T. HO
local nursing homes and the area prison. Although the county’s public health director said 90%
of the local cases were “attributed or related to the plant,” by May, the Tyson factory was “poised
to resume production after President Donald Trump invoked the Defense Production Act to
require meatpackers to stay open.”87
My critical juxtaposing of refugee farms with the recruitment of Burmese refugees for
dangerous jobs in U.S. meat-packing plants resists the construction of Burmese refugees as
an example par excellence of a twenty-first century Asian American model minority. The
exploitation of Burmese refugee workers within rural factory farms and urban meat
processing sites owned by corporations such as Tyson, JBS, and Smithfield not only high-
lights the fatal toxicity of the capitalist operations that drive industrialized agribusiness, but
also the heightened danger and health risks that vulnerable factory workers endure,
particularly in relation to the COVID-19 pandemic.
My mom was a healthy 60-year old working woman with no preexisting conditions . . . Then
one day at work, she started showing symptoms . . . . the on-site clinic at JBS . . . told her it was
just a common cold . . . and sent her right back on the floor . . . . she asked her supervisor if she
could . . . go to the bathroom. He told her no. And my proud, beautiful, hard working mother
urinated on herself. Soaked in urine, she put her head down and kept working. And all the
while, the virus was wreaking havoc on her body.
You wouldn’t have heard this story. After all, she was just a refugee-turned-meatpacker . . . .
I don’t enjoy telling our story. It hurts to remember. But the most painful thing is going over all
the what ifs? If JBS had closed earlier. Or cleaned the plant more thoroughly. Or gave the
meatpackers personal protective equipment immediately. Tin Aye, my mom, didn’t matter
nearly as much as the bottom line . . . .
My mom was a meatpacker. It’s the kind of job where you come home dirty every night, dead
tired. It’ll never make you rich, or bring you glory. But it’s the kind of job America was built on,
AMERASIA JOURNAL 89
the hard work of everyday people. My little brother is a Marine, deployed overseas. He’s willing
to risk his life for his country. My mom never should have been forced to risk hers, especially
for a company that doesn’t care about its people.89
Notes
1. Y n Lê Espiritu, Body Counts: The Vietnam War and Militarized Refuge(e)s (Oakland:
University of California Press, 2014), 21; 180.
2. Ibid., 11.
3. Karen Cardozo and Banu Subramaniam, “Assembling Asian/American Naturecultures:
Orientalism and Invited Invasions,” Journal of Asian American Studies 16, no. 1 (2013): 4.
4. Ibid., 7.
5. Joseph Cheah, Race and Religion in American Buddhism: White Supremacy and Immigrant
Adaptation, (New York: Oxford University Press, 2011), 117–19.
6. Monica M. Trieu and Chia Youyee Vang, Invisible Newcomers: Refugees from Burma/Myanmar
and Bhutan in the United States (Association for Asian American Studies/Asian & Pacific Islander
American Scholarship Fund, 2014). http://apiasf.org/research/APIASF_Burma_Bhutan_Report.
pdf. Reprinted in Journal of Asian American Studies 18, no. 3 (October 2015): 347–69.
7. Sang Kook Lee, “Scattered but Connected: Karen Refugees’ Networking in and beyond the
Thailand-Burma Borderland,” Asian and Pacific Migration Journal 21, no. 2 (2012): 278.
8. Patrick Winn, “The biggest group of current refugees in the US? Christians from Myanmar,”
The World, PRI.org, May 4, 2017, https://www.pri.org/stories/2017-05-04/biggest-group-
refugees-us-christians-myanmar.
9. Kristi Eaton, “In Oklahoma, a Myanmar refugee community worries about Trump’s expanded
travel ban,” NBC News, February 10, 2020, https://www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/okla
homa-myanmar-refugee-community-worries-about-trump-s-expanded-travel-n1132821.
10. Trieu and Vang, Invisible Newcomers, 26.
11. E.g., Anita Mannur and Valerie Matsumoto, eds., “Asian Americans on Meat versus Rice”
(Special Issue), Amerasia Journal 32, no. 2, 2006; Anita Mannur, Culinary Fictions: Food in
South Asian Diasporic Culture (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2010); Robert Ji-Song
Ku, Martin F. Manalansan IV, and Anita Mannur, eds., Eating Asian America: A Food Studies
Reader (New York: New York University Press, 2013); Mark Padoongpatt, Flavors of Empire:
Food and the Making of Thai America (Oakland: University of California Press, 2017); Samuel
H. Yamashita, Hawai i Regional Cuisine: The Food Movement That Changed the Way Hawai i
Eats (Honolulu: University of Hawai i Press, 2019).
12. All Saints. Directed by Steve Gomer. Screenplay by Steve Armor. Los Angeles: Sony Pictures
Entertainment, release of an Affirm Films and Provident Films presentation (of an Autumn
Pictures production), 2017. Michael Spurlock and Jeanette Windle, All Saints: The Surprising
True Story of How Refugees from Burma Brought Life Back to a Dying Church (Bloomington,
MN: Bethany House Publishers, 2017).
13. “In 1989, the military regime changed its name from Burma to Myanmar on the grounds that
the former name was tied to the colonial past. The state claims to include all citizens of different
ethnic groups with the name change, and not just of ethnic-majority, Burman . . . The new
name Myanmar literally means fast and strong (myan: fast and ma: strong). The regime hoped
for a fresh start in its post-colonial nation-building process with the change in all English
proper names into modern literary Burmese pronunciation. However, the new name has not
always been well-received among the public . . . . Some reject the new name Myanmar, as it was
reinforced by the authoritative regime and a reminisce of public fear and anxieties.” Chu May
Paing, “In Need of Daughters of Good Lineage: Placing Gender in Myanmar’s Buddhist
Nationalist Discourse,” in Studies in the Anthropology of Language in Mainland Southeast
Asia (Journal of the Southeast Asian Linguistics Society), ed. N.J. Enfield, Jack Sidnell, Charles
H.P. Zuckerman (Honolulu: University of Hawai´i Press, 2020), 44–45.
90 T. HO
14. Ashley South, “Karen Nationalist Communities: The ‘Problem’ of Diversity,” Contemporary
Southeast Asia 29, no. 1 (2007): 56.
15. When relevant, ethnic specificity and minority groups from Myanmar, such as Karen, Shan,
Chin, and Burman, will be signified as such.
16. “The circulation of inclusionary protest signs on Facebook points to the possibility of a more
capacious political community being imagined in Myanmar . . . . evidence of emerging trans-ethnic
solidarity between urban elites in Yangon and Rohingya refugees, between rebel leaders and labor
movements, and between migrant laborers and protesters is promising. The coup is transforming
multiple divergent groups into one counterpublic with an immediate goal, to undermine and crush
the military dictatorship. . .[and] to reimagine belonging and politics as becoming equitable for all
ethnicities, religions, and classes in Myanmar.” Elliott Prasse-Freeman and Tani Sebro, “The View of
the Coup from the Camp: Myanmar’s Emergent Trans-Ethnic Solidarity,” Georgetown Journal of
International Affairs (GJIA), March 17, 2021, https://gjia.georgetown.edu/2021/03/17/https-twitter-
com-natrani-status-1360993418445524999-photo-1/ (accessed March 18, 2021).
17. “BurmAmerica” is the 2011 title of an unpublished novel inspired by Craig’s mother, Karen freedom
fighter and beloved human rights activist Naw Louisa Benson (later Craig, 1941–2010) and also
served as the title of Craig’s public reading at University of California, Riverside in February 2011.
Charmaine Craig. Miss Burma (New York: Grove Press, 2017).
18. Espiritu, Body Counts, 21.
19. Lan Duong and Y n Lê Espiritu, “Toward Critical Refugee Studies: Being and Becoming in
Exceptional States of War, Violence, and Militarism,” UCHRI Residential Research Group
(2015–16), https://uchri.org/awards/toward-critical-refugee-studies-being-and-becoming-in-
exceptional-states-of-war-violence-and-militarism/ (accessed August 15, 2020).
20. Winn, “The biggest group of current refugees in the US?.” Because Burmese names do not
follow a patrilineal naming system, but rather are individual designations related to one’s day
of birth, Burmese names in this essay will generally remain in their full form.
21. Josh Margolin, “FBI warns of potential surge in hate crimes against Asian Americans amid
coronavirus,” ABC News, March 27, 2020, https://abcnews.go.com/US/fbi-warns-potential-
surge-hate-crimes-asian-americans/story?id=69831920 (accessed August 15, 2020).
22. Chin state is one of the poorest, most underdeveloped territories in Myanmar, and home to an
estimated 500,000 ethnic Chin. Although “Chin” refers to a major ethnic minority group who are
connected by a geographical homeland, traditional practices, and a shared history shaped by British
colonialism, it is not universally accepted as the preferred ethnonym by all who live in or come from
Chin state. Some prefer tribal affiliations: e.g., Mizo (Lushai), Zomi (Kuki), Asho, or Cho (Sho).
Since 1988, thousands from Chin state have been displaced by religious persecution and militarized
Buddhist nationalism and have resettled in India, Bangladesh, Malaysia, and Thailand. There are
estimated to be more than 200,000 Chin asylum seekers and refugees around the world. One of the
largest concentrations of Chin people outside of Myanmar is based in Indianapolis. Because of the
almost 20,000 Chin who live in Southport, the area is nicknamed “Chindianapolis.” Access to
employment, low housing prices, and an abundance of Christian churches appealed to Chin
refugees seeking more secure resettlement. Amy Alexander, “‘We Are Like Forgotten People.’
The Chin People of Burma: Unsafe in Burma, Unprotected in India.” (Report 2–56432-426-5), ed.
Elaine Pearson, Dinah PoKempner, and Joseph Saunders, Human Rights Watch (January 27, 2009):
48, 73, 9 (note 3), https://www.hrw.org/report/2009/01/27/we-are-forgotten-people/chin-people-
burma-unsafe-burma-unprotected-india# (accessed April 2, 2021); Susan Salaz and Steve Raymer,
“Welcome To Chindianapolis,” Indianapolis Monthly, December 12, 2020, https://www.indianapo
lismonthly.com/arts-and-culture/circle-city/welcome-to-chindianapolis.
23. Roxane Gay, “A White Man’s Bad Day,” The Audacity, March 17, 2021, https://audacity.
substack.com/p/a-white-mans-bad-day. Stop AAPI Hate collected and recorded 3,795 first-
hand accounts of anti-Asian hate and abuse between the start of the COVID-19 pandemic in
March 2020 and February 2021. Russell Jeung, Aggie Yellow Horse, Tara Popovic, and Richard
Lim, “Stop AAPI Hate National Report 3/19/20 – 2/28/21,” March 16, 2021, 1, https://
secureservercdn.net/104.238.69.231/a1w.90d.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/
210312-Stop-AAPI-Hate-National-Report-.pdf (accessed March 21, 2021).
AMERASIA JOURNAL 91
24. Sandy Barron, Refugees from Burma: Their Backgrounds and Refugee Experiences. United States
(Washington D.C.: Center for Applied Linguistics, Cultural Orientation Resource Center, 2007), 52.
25. Since 2020, the name “Karen” has become popular shorthand for entitled white women who
call the police in encounters with people of color. It is beyond the scope of this essay to discuss
Karen as a new racial stereotype that may function bivalently: as a cathartic “derogatory”
hailing that calls out feminized white supremacist entitlement and complicity in the carceral
state and/or as a misogynist slur that censors white female behavior and speech. Some claim the
two forms of “Karen” are easily differentiated by context or pronunciation, but I would argue
that these dismissals ignore the cognitive slippages that haunt and overshadow the ethnonyms
used and preferred by refugees from Burma. As stated on the meme, “it’s not different on
paper. it’s time to quit using Karen in this way” [sic].
26. William B Womack, “Literate networks and the production of Sgaw and Pwo Karen writing in
Burma c.1830–1930” (PhD diss., School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London,
2005), 15.
27. Jessica Harriden, “‘Making a Name for Themselves’: Karen Identity and the Politicization of
Ethnicity in Burma,” Journal of Burma Studies 7, no. 1 (2002): 92.
28. Ibid., 85. “The term ‘Karen’ denotes several different but related ethnic groups speaking languages
belonging to a distinct branch of the Tibeto-Burman family. The Sgaw and Pwo, numbering 350,000
of a total of 750,000 members of the hill tribe population of Northern Thailand, are the two main
Karen groups in that country. Other subgroups include the Kayah, Palaung and Taungthu (Pa-O).”
Roland Platz, “Buddhism and Christianity in Competition? Religious and Ethnic Identity in Karen
Communities of Northern Thailand,” Journal of Southeast Asian Studies 34, no. 3 (2003): 473,
doi:10.1017/S0022463403000432. See also Harriden, “‘Making a Name’,” 85.
29. South, “Karen Nationalist Communities,” 56.
30. Ibid., 57, citing Charles Keyes (1979). André Gallant, “In Comer, refugees apply old traditions,”
Athens Banner-Herald, October 27, 2012, https://www.onlineathens.com/features/2012-10-27/
comer-refugees-apply-old-traditions (accessed April 10, 2021).
31. Martin Smith, “Burma: The Karen Conflict,” in Encyclopedia of Modern Ethnic Conflicts, ed.
Joseph R. Rudolph, Jr. (London: Greenwood Press, 2003); quoted in South, “Karen Nationalist
Communities,” 58. Paul Kenny and Kate Lockwood-Kenny, “A Mixed Blessing: Karen
Resettlement to the United States,” Journal of Refugee Studies 24, no. 2 (2011): 221.
32. Zoya Phan with Damien Lewis, Little Daughter: A Memoir of Survival in Burma and the West
(London: Pocket Books/Simon and Schuster UK, 2009), 15. Republished as Zoya Phan with
Damien Lewis, Undaunted A Struggle for Freedom and Survival in Burma (New York: Free
Press, 2010), 1–2.
33. Ibid, 16 (Undaunted, 2).
34. Ibid.
35. American Baptist Historical Society (ABHS), “Morning Star,” Mercer University Libraries
Institutional Repository, University Research, Scholarship, and Archives (URSA), https://
libraries.mercer.edu/ursa/handle/10898/669 (accessed August 22, 2020).
36. South, “Karen Nationalist Communities,” 58 [sic.]. S’ghaw and Sgaw are variations in spelling.
South cites Benedict Anderson, Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of
Nationalism (London: Verso, 1983).
37. Jeffrey Lewis Petry, “The Sword of the Spirit: Christians, Karens, Colonialists, and the Creation
of a Nation in Burma” (PhD diss, Rice University, 1993), 84, https://scholarship.rice.edu/
bitstream/handle/1911/19085/9408655.PDF (accessed August 12, 2021).
38. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 23.
39. Signed in 2017, Executive Order 13769, “Protecting the Nation from Foreign Terrorist Entry into the
United States,” was colloquially known as “the Muslim ban” and suspended entry of refugees from
Syria, Iran, Iraq, Libya, Somalia, Sudan, and Yemen, and reduced U.S. visas for refugees by 55%,
adversely affecting resettlement of displaced peoples from Myanmar. North Korea and Venezuela
were added in 2018. In January 2020, the Trump administration expanded the ban to include six
more nations in Africa and Asia, including Myanmar.
40. Womack, “Literate networks,” 4.
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56. Amy Sowder and Heather Hahn, “Karen refugees revitalize two mainline churches, inspire film All
Saints,” The Christian Century, September 5, 2017. https://www.christiancentury.org/article/news/
karen-refugees-revitalize-two-mainline-churches-inspire-film-all-saints-0 (accessed August 16,
2020).
57. Frank Scheck praises All Saints as “a faith-based film that even atheists can embrace . . . . By
avoiding excessive proselytizing and instead simply and effectively relating its moving tale, All
Saints proves stirring in a way many of its cinematic brethren do not.” Frank Scheck “‘All Saints’:
Film Review,” Hollywood Reporter, August 25, 2017, https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/
review/all-saints-1032329 (accessed August 10, 2020). Joe Leydon, “Film Review: ‘All Saints’,”
Variety, August 24, 2017, https://variety.com/2017/film/reviews/all-saints-review-1202538667/
(accessed August 10, 2020).
58. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 151. The All Saints’ project is named Kurios Farms. “The Greek
word for ‘lord’ kurios was a common word for God in the original language of the New Testament.
A reminder to Michael, his parish, and the world that this was God’s farm and God was in charge of
it” (130).
59. Ibid., 13.
60. South, “Karen Nationalist Communities,” 60.
61. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 13.
62. Ibid.
63. Reagan Hignojos similarly likens Bawi Cung Nung to Holocaust survivor Viktor Frankl.
Reagan Hignojos and Brandi Addison, “Sam’s stabbing victim offers lesson in grace,”
Midland Reporter-Telegram, April 12, 2020, https://www.mrt.com/opinion/article/OPINION-
Sam-s-stabbing-victim-offers-lesson-in-15195816.php.
64. Harriden, “‘Making a Name’,” 94; Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 22. See also Phan, Little
Daughter, 68; Craig, Miss Burma, 18.
65. Womack, “Literate networks,” 184.
66. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 22. See also Platz, “Buddhism and Christianity,” 478 and Winai
Boonlue, “Karen imaginary of suffering in relation to Burmese and Thai history,” in Present State of
Cultural Heritages in Asia, ed. S. Nakamura and Y. Yoshida (Kanazawa, Japan: Kanazawa
University, 2012), 22.
67. Amy Sowder, “All Saints’ movie details how refugees saved struggling Episcopal church,”
Episcopal News Service, August 25, 2017, https://www.episcopalnewsservice.org/2017/08/25/
all-saints-movie-details-how-refugees-saved-struggling-episcopal-church/ (accessed
August 21, 2020). Sowder and Hahn, “Karen refugees.”
68. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 134.
69. An extended comparison of Karen and Hmong refugee soldier figures is beyond the scope of this
essay but would be useful in tracking differential Southeast Asian forms of the “noble savage” and
“natural” warrior trope. For more on the (Hmong) “refugee soldier figure who emerged as an ally
through U.S. global interventions but was displaced as a refugee,” see Ma Vang, “The Refugee
Soldier: A Critique of Recognition and Citizenship in the Hmong Veterans’ Naturalization Act of
1997,” History on the Run: Secrecy, Fugitivity, and Hmong Refugee Epistemologies (Durham, NC:
Duke University Press, 2021), 94, https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctv1c9hm60.7.
70. “Michael was surprised to see Karen walking along the fence dividing church land from the highway,
pulling up what appeared to be weeds. They did the same along the creek and tree line that edged the
church’s bottomland. Michael learned that they were actually harvesting edible greens. When spring
rains brought the usual wild onions springing up all over the lawn, he saw Karen women and
children carefully pulling up every shoot . . . . These people are survivors! Michael realized. I look out
over our land and see weeds and wildlife. They see dinner!” (Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 101–02).
71. Ibid, 110, italics in original. In the movie, God tells Spurlock, “You do the math.”
72. In 1796, when Tennessee joined the United States, five-sixths of present-day territory was still
inhabited by the Cherokee and Chickasaw Nations. Native peoples who lived there prior to
removal included the Shawnee, Yuchi, Natchez, Muscogee (Creek), and Catawba. More than
a thousand Cherokee died during their forced migration west and resettlement in Oklahoma
(1838–39), and it is estimated that several thousand perished from the consequences of the
94 T. HO
relocation. Smyrna began as an agrarian community as Europeans settled the area and was first
incorporated in 1869. The town’s most important historical site remains the Sam Davis
plantation, named after a local Confederate “boy soldier” who was hanged by the Union
Army for spying. Agriculture continued to be the principal economic activity in Smyrna
until the establishment of the Army Air Base in 1941.
73. “Hello. Are you trying to help these people apply for benefits?” Translated by Min Yoo.
Personal communication, August 24, 2020. Actor Ivan Leung is likely of Chinese descent
and probably not fluent in Korean.
74. All Saints movie. “All Saints: Ye Win and the Karen.” YouTube.com, July 11, 2017. https://
youtu.be/QmuEyvcSMf0 (accessed August 15, 2020).
75. John Bauerschmidt (2007 to present) was Spurlock’s supervisor and head of the diocese in the book.
76. In his final sermon in the film, Spurlock says, “We tried to save our church by starting a farm, but as
we fought together down in these fields, we found that we had actually started something else,
something each of us in our own way needed more: a community. Baptists from Riverview,
Buddhists from Nashville, farmers from Smyrna, farmers from the other side of the world,
connected beyond that building, beyond this land . . . Maybe it’s what God intended all along.”
77. Quoted in Dercksen, “All Saints – A Story of Faith.”
78. This pattern has been noted in studies of Karen refugee resettlement: “non-governmental
agencies contracted by the state were conspicuously absent in the post-resettlement phase, with
a number of unofficial non-governmental organizations, primarily religious ones, filling the
void.” Kenny and Lockwood-Kenny, “A Mixed Blessing,” 217, 219, and 235.
79. “Built without power tools, save for the odd chainsaw cut, and seemingly without fasteners, the
constructions employ skills the Karen people learned in their childhoods . . . . ‘The land is a place
where refugees are teachers,” [Jubilee staff member Russ] Dyck said . . . . “this is a place of healing. It’s
been amazing to see how Karen and other refugees connect with this piece of land.” At Jubilee,
refugees garden, raise and kill goats and practice other traditional skills.” Gallant, “In Comer,
refugees apply old traditions.”
80. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 12–13.
81. Church World Service, “Church-hosted refugee gardens prove drought-resistant,” CWS
Global, November 28, 2012, https://cwsglobal.org/church-hosted-refugee-gardens-prove-
drought-resistant/ (accessed August 23, 2020).
82. Ibid. The benefits of gardening are not exclusive to Burmese refugees. Christian refugee farm
projects throughout the United States are also tended by refugees from Cuba, Somalia, Bhutan,
Albania, Bosnia, Iran, Liberia, and elsewhere. See for example, Jubilee Partners’ Neighbor’s Field
in Comer, Georgia, and the Pamoja (Swahili for “together”) Garden in Hudsonville, Michigan.
83. See Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel, Decolonize Your Diet: Plant-Based Mexican-
American Recipes for Health and Healing (Vancouver: Arsenal Pulp Press, 2015), 22.
84. Spurlock and Windle, All Saints, 134.
85. Jule Hubbard, “Tyson plans to employ refugees,” Wilkes Journal-Patriot, November 1, 2013,
updated May 4, 2021, https://www.journalpatriot.com/news/tyson-plans-to-employ-refugees
/article_313389c6-4319-11e3-8ce8-0019bb30f31a.html (accessed August 12, 2021).
86. Ryan Foley, “Burmese Refugees Flock to Iowa Meatpacking Town,” Associated Press, May 5, 2013.
Reprinted at The Irrawaddy, May, 6, 2013, https://www.irrawaddy.com/news/burma/burmese-
refugees-flock-to-iowa-meatpacking-town.html and Manufacturing.net on May 13, 2013, https://
www.manufacturing.net/home/news/13173250/burmese-refugees-flock-to-iowa-meatpacking
-town.
87. Ryan Foley, “Coronavirus cuts ‘deep scars’ through meatpacking cities,” Associated Press,
May 5, 2020, https://apnews.com/article/6de2477c31301e779ea13d43ef0f2262.
88. Cardozo and Subramaniam, “Assembling Asian/American Naturecultures,” 4, italics in original.
89. San Twin, “COVID-19 Ravaged Meat Plants: My Refugee Mother’s Life Is Worth More than the
Bottom Line” (Opinion), USA Today, October 1, 2020, https://www.usatoday.com/story/opinion/
voices/2020/10/01/meat-packing-plants-coronavirus-covid-19-death-column/3586030001/.
AMERASIA JOURNAL 95
Acknowledgments
Deepest gratitude to my mother and extended family for teaching me about Burmese food. I also am
indebted to William B. Womack for sharing his conference presentation about Karen refugee farms and to
Judy Tzu-Chun Wu, Donatella Galella, Anita Mannur, Deborah Wong, Himanee Gupta-Carlson, Stephen
Sohn, SueJeanne Koh, Dana Simmons, Jonathan Eacott, and other members of the AAAS Feminisms
writing group (especially Kavita Daiya, Patricia Chu, GJ Sevillano, and Catherine Phuc To) who encour-
aged this project and generously read earlier drafts. Sincere thanks to the Critical Refugee Studies Collective
for research funding support (UC Office of the President Multicampus Research Programs and Initiatives
grant ID number MRP-17-454891) and to David A. Martinez for his keen editorial assistance.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
Funding
This work was supported by the Critical Refugee Studies Collective (UC Office of the President
Multicampus Research Programs and Initiatives grant ID number MRP-17-454891)
ORCID
Tamara Ho http://orcid.org/0000-0002-6894-9517