Internship Report

Acknowledgement

My deepest thanks to Ms. . And Ms Of Ashima Limited the Guide of this Internship for giving encouragement, guidance and support from the initial to the final level and enabled me to develop an understanding of the subject. I am highly indebted to people in the Organization for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information & also for their support in completing the Internship. I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons for giving me such attention and time. I would like to express my gratitude towards my mentor Mr. for his kind co-operation and encouragement which help me in completion of this report.

About The Company Group Ashima is one of India's leading 100% cotton fabric manufacturers. It is a technology driven vertically integrated Group with a turnover of over US$ 100 million per annum. In a short span of 5 years, the Group has invested US$ 120 million in state-of-the-art technology and today is one of the foremost cotton textile players in the world. GROUP ASHIMA comprises of the following companies/divisions: Ashima Ltd. Ashima Dyecot Ltd. Atrium Exports Pvt. Ltd. Atrium has the capability to translate any & all apparel concepts to finish products. Equipped with cutting tables, all types of sewing machines, a fusing machine & a state of the art CAD system, it has a sampling room capable of generating prototypes of yet to be ordered garments, fit samples, size sets & sales man samples. It also boasts of a small garment washing facility & final finishing & packing capability. It has an in-house training center & is also manned with personnel for constant customer interaction. An archive & a purpose specific library are also present. Ashima then ventured into its own fullfledged garmenting unit. This factory is equipped with 440 specialty sewing machines, almost all of which are manufactured by Juki, which is widely recognized as a world leader in this field. Specialized machines like automatic GERBER spreading machine, Hashima & Kannegiesser Top fusing machine, Juki automatic pocket welting machine, Kannegiesser body press & Rotondi Legers & toppers as well as all type of rivetting & snap buttoning machines have also been installed.

With this setup, flexibility is ensured in the manufacturing of any type of garments. This unit is manned with carefully trained & scrutinized employees & is capable of manufacturing approx. 4500 garments/day.

The company has also setup an in-house garment washing facility. This unit is equipped with capabilities of imparting any type of feel & finish, as desired by the customer, to a fully stitched garment. For cotton trousers a separate wrinkle free treatment facility has also been installed. Garment laundry is well versed to produce all kind of wet and dry processes like, the special processes on denim to create vintage look, used look, detailed design on denim to enhance the fabric appearance. Customers are- BD baggies, French Connection(FCUK), Woolrick, Joseph Turner,Harvie and Hudson, Henry and Arlington, Sixth sense, Save Khaki, Barney`s Stores, Landmark Group, E lectric etc. Fabric Customers- Polo Ralph Lauren, Banana Republic, Next, Mayoral,Tisco, Gap, Ann Taylor, Tommy Hilfiger, Zara, Armani Exchange, M & S etc.

The Product Range The product range includes: shirts, formal as well as casual Trousers, Jeans, Capri Jackets Cargos, Boxer shorts Pyajama sets Children wear of all types Women wear and many more.

About The Brand Frank Jefferson' is a 100% Cotton Menswear Readymade Garments brand from Group Ashima. All Frank Jefferson garments are made from high quality fabrics. They are styled and stitched at world class garment manufacturing facilities of Group Ashima, under the strictest quality assurance parameters. The garments are washed, finished and wherever required, made wrinkle free at our world class garment-washing facility using German technology. Shirts, Trousers, Denims, T-Shirts, Night Suits, Vest, Brief, Sweaters etc. Garments are offered in variety of fabrics such as white, yarn dyed, piece dyed. Dobbies-Dobby weave is a patterned fabric like jacquard weave but the patterns are smaller. It produces an allover figured fabrics. Dobby weave is created on dobby machines. The machine selectively raises some warp threads and selectively depresses others with the help of a dobby card. Dobbies vary in weight or compactness. It ranges from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns. The standard dobbies are generally flat and relatively fine or sheer. Twills-Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well. Fil-a-fils and Tri-la-fils - A light fabric suited to all seasons.Its characteristic comes from the working of the different types of cotton of which it is composed.

Oxford Characterized by a weave of one line of texture for every two of warp; the effect looking at this fabric is of very small points of white emerging from a colored background. It can have three different versions: FINE with a distinct softness can be worn both in the summer in winter. MEDIUM suited for garments more informal and sporty HEAVY with a notably granular texture, however still soft Chambray- The lightweight, primarily cotton fabric known as chambray is a plain weave fabric and is generally used for spring and summer tops and skirts. The fabric was originally made in Cambria, France, and the name was derived from that region. Although chambray is primarily a lightweight fabric, it is also made in heavier weights Oxford- Originally made of only cotton, Oxford cloth utilizes a warp that that combines two fine filaments that are woven together to create a basket weave pattern that is sturdy but still allows the fabric to breathe. In fact, the material gets its name from the term that defines the process, which is referred to as the Oxford weave. Chinos twilled cotton fabric. Corduroys- Corduroy is the word used to describe a type of fabric that has parallel, lengthwise cords or ridges. Originally made of cotton, the fibers of the fabric are normally twisted as they are woven. When the weaving is finished, the fibers create the long, parallel pattern. In-house washing facility is capable of giving modern washes and finishes such as wrinkle free, enzyme wash, ball wash, sand blasting, scrapping, tinting etc.

Fabric Approval procedure

1)Fabric construction approval 2)Fabric color approval 3)Fabric quality approval

Fabric Color Approval includes following stepsLap dips approvals- Development stage Bulk shade approval- fabric production stage Dye lot classification and approvals- Before bulk fabric cutting stage

The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers. Association (AAMA) point grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defence in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC. Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following: Length of defect in fabric, Points either length or width Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (15 cms.) Over 6 in. (15 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) Over 9 in. (23 cms.) Holes and openings Points alloted 1 2 3 4 Points

(largest dimension) 1 in. (2.5 cms.) or less Over 1 in. (2.5 cms.)

Alloted 2 4

The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any one linear yard/metre is four points. Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 sq yards/sq mtrs. of fabric.

Work Flow in a Garment Manufacturing Unit

Fabric StoresInward of the raw material ( fabric and lining) Fabric Inspection Storage of fabric Fabric Issue to Cutting department Auxiliary functions along with Quality department Shade sorting Shrinkage Testing

Trim Stores- To receive Incoming material.

To check material for attribute & variables. To arrange an incoming material in allocated racks. To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement. To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material. To audit to check physical inventory.

Cutting DepartmentCAD and marker making, Spreading, Cutting, Sorting/ ticketing, Fusing, Bundling, Marker making , Cut plan.

Manual marker planning with full size patterns in a full size marker Computerized marker planning-Digitizer andComputer Grading. Functions Of Cad-To develop mini-markers required by the merchandisers To digitize the hard copy of the patterns received from the sampling departments pattern master To develop markers to be issued for cutting To do correct grading as specified by the buyer To make maximum utilization of the available fabric To digitize the patterns and maintain a library of the styles, already being done

Cutting is done by Hand sheers, Straight knife-, Round knife, Band Knife, Notchers, Drills and thread markers, Computer controlled cutting knives.

1.Straight knife is used for bulk cutting. Preferred over computer controlled cutters in case product is not staple and not much quantity to cut. Versatile, Portable, Cheaper, More accurate on curves than a round knife, Relatively reliable, Easy to maintain. Even if a band knife will be used for the main cutting , straight knife will be used to separate the lay into sections for easier handling.

2.Round knife- Elements are base plate, electric motor, handle for cutter to direct the blade, and a circular blade rotating that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric, Blade diameters varies from 6 cm to 20 cm. Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays.Used only for straight lines or lower lays of relatively few plies. Are not good on tight curves , as armholes, necklines. 3.Band knife- Comprises a series of three or more pulleys , powered by an electric motor with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them.This blade is sharpened at one edge. Principle of operation is different from straight knife.Good for contour cutting.

Sewing Room-System followed In sewing is Progressive Bundle System.The garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub assembly and main assembly operations in bundle form. Principle : The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence, with each having a layout according to the sequence of operations required to produce a particular component.

Bundle consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. Different Types of Machines availableNormal Single needle lockstitch machine Double needle lockstitch machine (DNLS) Thread O/L machine Thread Over-lock machine Single needle chain stitch machine (SNCS) Double needle chain stitch machine (DNCS) Feedof arm Bartack machine Buttonhole machine Shape tacking machine Belt loop making and attaching Button sew machine Snap button machine Rivet attaching machine

Washing Section- Types oF washing done Enzyme wash-laundering process which uses enzymes to clean clothing or to finish fabric, especially in the case of jeans and other garments with a worn-in look.. For regular cleaning, enzymes carry numerous economic and environmental benefits. On an industrial scale, enzyme washing has replaced laborious laundering techniques such as stonewashing, saving money and environmental impact for companies.

Stone wash- A textile manufacturing process used to give a newly manufactured cloth garment a worn-out appearance. Stone-washing also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim. The process uses large stones to roughen up the fabric being processed. The garments are placed in a large horizontal industrial clothes washer that is also filled with large stones. As the wash cylinder rotates, the cloth fibers are repeatedly pounded and beaten as the tumbling stones ride up the paddles inside the drum and fall back down onto the fabric. Acid wash- A washing process in which stones soaked in chlorine acid are used to soften and bleach fabric, especially denim garments. Softener wash- A washing process in which softeners are used to soften fabric. Have expertise in garment dyeing, which is one of the most challenging area of garment processing.