LESSON 1

MODULE Techniques Involved in Drafting,

4 Blocking of Patterns
and Assembling of Blouse
 SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES:
1. Discuss the techniques involved in drafting and
blocking of patterns.
2. Illustrate the indispensable tools in drafting patterns.
3. Discuss intelligently the measurement, materials needed
and procedures to be followed in drafting the following:
(a) Front bodice,
(b) Black bodice,
(c) Front and Back blouse based on the front and back
bodice pattern; and
(e) Sleeve of the blouse.
4. Enumerate the steps in assembling the blouse with
round neckline.
5. Follow carefully the salient measures to observe in
drafting patterns.
6. Draft and assemble your blouse.
7. Fit the finished blouse for evaluation with an attached
project label.
 MOTIVATION

 
Do you know the difference between
style and fashion?
Pattern is a device used by dressmakers as a guide when cutting an article or
garment. It is cut from a pattern paper and is used as a guide in cutting the
garment.
A garment is sewn based on a pattern. Beginners in sewing will find it very
helpful to use a foundation pattern. Producing a good foundation pattern
depends greatly upon one’s accuracy in taking body measurements.

There are three ways of making pattern

1. The foundation pattern is made from the individual

measurement. The foundation pattern is composed of five parts. It
has no seam allowance.
a. The front bodice d. The front skirt
b. The back bodice e. The sleeve
c. The back skirt
2. The drape pattern is the placing of fabric over the model’s body
mannequin. It lets the fabric flow freely downward over the body’s
silhouette. This is the most expensive pattern as it utilizes more
fabrics. It is also known as the pattern that creates the original effect.
 3. Commercial Patterns are sold in department stores. They
have a package of directions and contain the actual pattern
pieces one will use to cut out fabrics. They include a sheet of
instructions. This sheet has both written directions and small
drawings that explain what to do.

WHERE TO MEASURE A COMMERCIAL PATTERN

Female Male

Bust Chest
Waist Waist
Hip Hip
Back waist length Back waist length
Sleeve length Sleeve length
 KINDS OF PATTERNS
1.Block Pattern - this is sometimes called “sloper” or
Foundation Pattern”. It is made by drafting from the
measurements which have been carefully taken from an
individual or from a model. It is to be traced in another pattern
paper for construction purposes.

2. Construction Pattern - this is intervening step between the

block and the final pattern. When designs are complicated,
construction patterns are pieced together to visualize the style
of the garment.

3. Final Pattern – this is provided with the necessary symbols

that will guide the designer on how to layout the pattern on the
cloth. Symbols for darts, seam allowances, grain line,
centerfold, notches, and other markers are used.
 THREE KINDS OF SLEEVE PATTERNS

1.Block Pattern. This is the foundation pattern of the

sleeve based on the individuals measurement

2. Construction Pattern. The intended design is drawn in

the pattern. This for gathers and puff sleeves. Cut the lines
and put numbers to determine the place.
 3. Final Pattern. The cut pieces are now arranged so as to
add ease for the gathers or puff sleeve. This arrangement has
½” allowance in between the parts. At the bottom of the
sleeve the parts are placed together. Please see the figure.

Seam Allowance:
1.On the sleeve cap is 1 inch.
2. Upon reaching No. 5 and 6, add only ½”.
3. Under arm and girth is ½”.
 MEASUREMENT AND MATERIALS NEEDED IN DRAFTING
THE FRONT BODICE OF A BLOUSE

A. Measurement Needed: Divisor

1. Shoulder ------------------------------------------------------- ½
2. Chest ----------------------------------------------------------- ½
3. Bust ------------------------------------------------------------- ¼
4. Waistline------------------------------------------------------- ¼
5. Bust height----------------------------------------------------- as is
6. Bust distance-------------------------------------------------- ½
7. Figure---------------------------------------------------------- as is
8. Length--------------------------------------------------------- as is

Materials Needed:
1. Pattern Paper
2. Tape Measure
3. L-Square or ruler
4. French Curve and Hip Curve
5. Pencil and Eraser
6. Scissors
 DRAFTING THE FRONT BODICE

Materials needed:
1. Brown paper 24” wide by 18” long
2. Pencil with eraser
3. Ruler/Tape measure
4. French curve
5. Body measurements
6. Tailor’s chalk or Pencil
 Step 1: Vertically measured and
Horizontally drawn

1.Draw a perpendicular line from

the left side.
2. A is corner of two lines.
3.AB is 3 inches downward for neck
depth.
4.AC is 5 inches downward for
chest line.
5.AD is ¼ of bust measurement.
6.AE is figure front length
measurement.
7. Draw horizontal lines for A, B,
C, D, and E until the right edge of
the brown paper.
8. AF is 3 inches to the right.
9. AG is ½ of shoulder measurement. Step II: Horizontal Measured
10. GH is 1 ½ inches down. Connect
BF using french curve. Connect FH
using ruler to show the shoulder
sloper.
11.CI is ½ of chect measurement.
Connect HI with a line.
12. DJ is ¼ of bust measurement
+ 1 1/2 inches to the right. Connect I
with J using the french curve.
13. EK is ¼ of waist measurement +
1 ¼ inches to the right. Connect
JK with a line.
14. AD1 is bust height measure
downward.
15. D1 to L is ½ of bust distance to the
right. Draw vertical line.
16. D1 to L is equal with EM. Measure 5/8
inch on both sides of M. Connect the
marks with L to manifest the waist dart.
17. KN is ½ inch upward. Connect MN
using hip curve.
 DRAFTING THE BACK BODICE
Materials needed:
1.Utilize same brown paper (24”x18”) of the front bodice
2. Ruler/Tape measure
3. French curve/Hip curve
4. Pencil with eraser
5.Body measurement
Procedure: (Vertically and horizontally taken with
curve lines.)
1.Draw a vertical line from the right edge of the
brown paper.
2. Transfer letters ACDE.
3. AB is ½ inch downward for the neck depth.
4. AF is 3 inches to the left.
5. AG is ½ of shoulder measurement.
6.GH is 1 inch downward. Connect FB with a
curve line. Connect FH with a line.
7.CI is ½ of chest back width measurement.
Connect HI.
8.DJ is ¼ of bust measurement. Raise ½ inch
for J. Connect IJ using French curve.
9. EK is ¼ of waist measurement + 1 ¼ inches. Connect JK.
 10. AD1 is bust height + 1 inch upward.
11. D1 to L is ½ bust distance horizontally to the left side. Draw a vertical line to E.
12. D1 to L is equal with EM. Measure 5/8 inch on both sides of M. Connect the
marks with L to show the back waist dart.
13. KN is ½ inch upward. Connect N with M using hip curve.
14. Cut FBHIJN to E back to B of the front and back pattern.
15. Transfer the pattern to a cardboard.
 DRAFTING THE FRONT BLOUSE BASED ON THE FRONT BODICE
PATTERN

Materials Needed:

1. 18” wide x 24” long brown paper

2. Pencil with eraser
3. Front bodice pattern in a cardboard
4. Scissors
5. Tape scissors
6. L-square/ruler
7. Hip curve/frence curve
8. Pins or rocks/weights

Measurements Needed:

1. Length of blouse
2. 1st hip
3. Second hip
Procedure:
1. Measure 2” from the left edge of the brown paper
and fold under.
2. Measure ½” from the top edge and side edge. Draw
lines.
3. Place the front pattern beside the lines and put pins
or weights.
4. Trace the neck hole, shoulder, armhole, side bodice,
waistline and dart.
5. Transfer letters AEJMN.
6. EO is 4” down for the first hip.
7. AP is the length of blouse. Draw horizontal lines for
O and P.
8. NT is 1 1/2 inches to the right.
9. OQ is ¼ of first hip measurement + 1 ½ inches to
the right
10. PR is ¼ of second hip measurement + 1 ½ inches to
the right. Connect JT with a line. Connect TQR
using hip curve .
11. RS is ½ inch upward. Connect S with P using hip
curve.
12. Extend M to line O. Corner of MO is U.
13. Connect U between M to produce a double dart
14. Remove the front bodice pattern.
 DRAFTING THE BACK BLOUSE BASED ON THE BACK BODICE PATTERN
Materials Needed:
1. 18” width x 24” long brown paper,
2. Tape measure
3. French curve/hip curve
4. Ruler/ L-sqaure
5. Pins or stones / weights
6. Scissors
7. Pencil with eraser
8. Back bodice pattern in a cardboard

Measurement Needed:
1. Length of blouse
2. First hip
3. Second hip
Procedure:
1. Measure ½” down from the top edge.
Place the back bodice on the right edge.
2. Trace the back bodice pattern including
the waist dart. Put weighs or pins.
Transfer letters AEJMNL.
3. EO is 4 inches down for the first hip line.
4. AP is length of blouse downward. Draw
horizontal lines for O and P to the left
side.
5. OQ is ¼ of first hip + 1 inch to the left.
6. PR is ¼ of second hip + 1 inch to the left.
7. NT is 1 ½ inches to the left. Connect
JTQ and R using hip curve.
8. RS is ½ inch upward. Connect S with P
using hip curve
9. Extend M to line O.
10. Corner of MO is U. Connect U between
M to manifest a double dart.
11. Remove the back bodice pattern.
 DRAFTING THE SLEEVE
Materials needed:
1. 12 x 12 inches brown paper
2. Ruler
3. Pencil with eraser
4. French curve
5. Front and back bodice pattern

Measurement needed:
Measure HIJ of the front and back armhole of the bodice.
Divide the sum into two.

Example:
10 inches front armhole
+9 inches back armhole
19 / 2 = 9 ½ inches
Procedure:
1. A is corner to two lines.
2. AB is 5 inches downward.
3. AC is the length of sleeve downward.
Draw horizontal lines for ABC.
4. AD is ½ of armhole measurement to the
right.
5. CE is ½ of arm girth to the right + 1 ½
inches allowance. Connect DE.
6. F is corner of BD. Connect AF.
7. AF measurement = G
2
8. AG measurement = H ¾” upward
2
9. GF measurement = I + ¼ inch
2 downward.
Connect AHG with a
curve line. So with
GIF.
10. Cut from A to C, AHGIFE to C. Trace in
a cardboard.
DRAFTING CONVERTED COLLAR